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  1. #2801
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    So with a padlock I can easily secure the newer racks now? I don't really want to secure the rack to the hitch and have to get under there all the time. I am looking for a rack for some weekend trips but mostly to take my mountain bike out on a Sunday.

    I'm thinking this is the best option. I won't have the rack on my car a lot. Basically put in on before I go and remove it when I get back. I do worry a bit of it being stolen when I'm out on the trails but this padlock solution seems okay. Its simple enough right.

    You think this rack would be my best option then? I know Kuat makes some nice racks but this might be easier to install and remove frequently.
    I believe that is correct. I have the older style - in fact, I think I have one of the first racks. There is a security allen bolt that holds it on - it's got a little stud up in the center of the hex socket of the allen bolt that requires a special tool. I've never had a problem with that in the probably 10 years we've had the rack (long time, anyhow) and it's been in a lot of insecure parking lots and trailheads over the years. If there was a lock over the bolt head, I'd use it just because I could.

    But I can tell you that it has got to be the fastest and easiest rack to mount on the car. I can have the rack on the car in less than 30 seconds from a standing start and about a minute for two bikes (rack plus one add on module). It would be simple to have the rack, add on module and two bikes on the rack in a couple of minutes or less. Some guy demonstrates this in a youtube video. While his is the two bike version, mine is the single bike version with an add on kit (actually three kits). I'm pretty sure I could get my rack on the car and an add on module as well with bikes in two minutes. That's a pretty high bar to beat for convenience.

    It's also the easiest to store because they come apart into modules and sort of fold up. Have mine hanging on hooks on the garage wall out of the way.

    J.

  2. #2802
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    Do I have to buy the lock they have on there site or can I buy a lock anywhere.

    Is that lock on there site even the same lock I need to make sore no one steals the rack?

  3. #2803
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    Do I have to buy the lock they have on there site or can I buy a lock anywhere.

    Is that lock on there site even the same lock I need to make sore no one steals the rack?
    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.
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  4. #2804
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I'm calling this a troll. Look at lost post count (5) and just joined.

    Besides that, my rack has never had an issue with being tight in a receiver and that is over three different cars with three different receivers driving over 15,000 miles with it on. There is no issue with this.

    J.
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    I called him out here. Few posts up.
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  5. #2805
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    I agree...probably someone connected to smaller competing company.

  6. #2806
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flyer View Post
    I agree...probably someone connected to smaller competing company.
    Or a bigger one. Planting FUD on the webs.

    His 5 posts are bullish.t and never happened. They should be removed.

  7. #2807
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    Is there a few inches of play to move the bike left or right to try to keep the licence plate visible?

    I just ordered one but forgot to check if having a bike on the rack will block my licence plate. Anyone drive a new Nissan Altima with one?

  8. #2808
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    Is there a few inches of play to move the bike left or right to try to keep the licence plate visible?

    I just ordered one but forgot to check if having a bike on the rack will block my licence plate. Anyone drive a new Nissan Altima with one?
    You can move bike left or right by adjusting angle of the arms. No play needed.

  9. #2809
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    Sorry one more question. I'm looking at the dimensions but cant figure out how far the rack sticks out? My car requires a hidden hitch that is inches into the bumper. From the dimensions it looks tight and my pedals might hit the bumper.

    Where can I get the exact measurements? The site doesn really have the measurement when installed. Need to know the length from the hitch to the middle of the tire. I should of checked this before I ordered.

  10. #2810
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    Sorry one more question. I'm looking at the dimensions but cant figure out how far the rack sticks out? My car requires a hidden hitch that is inches into the bumper. From the dimensions it looks tight and my pedals might hit the bumper.

    Where can I get the exact measurements? The site doesn really have the measurement when installed. Need to know the length from the hitch to the middle of the tire. I should of checked this before I ordered.
    You can always get a hitch extender. 1up sells 1-1/4" to 2" one for $40, but there are others.

    It has more clearance than most racks anyway.

  11. #2811
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    Sorry one more question. I'm looking at the dimensions but cant figure out how far the rack sticks out? My car requires a hidden hitch that is inches into the bumper. From the dimensions it looks tight and my pedals might hit the bumper.

    Where can I get the exact measurements? The site doesn really have the measurement when installed. Need to know the length from the hitch to the middle of the tire. I should of checked this before I ordered.
    The hitch on my 2015 Forte sedan ends several inches under the car and there's no problem with the tightness of the rack. Absolutely superb rack by the way. I can't get over how well it's designed and manufactured. One rarely finds anything anywhere so well designed and manufactured.

  12. #2812
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    Quote Originally Posted by Axe View Post
    You can move bike left or right by adjusting angle of the arms. No play needed.
    It will pretty much block your license plate but in probably 15,000 miles of driving with it, never been stopped.

    I did, however, get some trailer lights and wire it into my trailer hitch lighting. I then bungie the lights down on the most outboard rack. I did this because we have some covers for some of our bikes that completely cover the tail lights when loaded with bikes. However, I will tell you that it's a good idea to use them all the time. I had the occasion to follow our car with bikes on it for 250 miles. Didn't have the covers on the bikes but the tail lights were mounted. Amazing difference in the visibility of the tail lights and the perceived brightness. I'm never going to run without the extra lights again if I have more than a single bike on the rack - lesson learned.

    J.

  13. #2813
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    I just ordered my 2" super duty yesterday . . . should be here next week. Very excited (now lets hope if fits, haha).
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  14. #2814
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    It will pretty much block your license plate but in probably 15,000 miles of driving with it, never been stopped.

    I did, however, get some trailer lights and wire it into my trailer hitch lighting. I then bungie the lights down on the most outboard rack. I did this because we have some covers for some of our bikes that completely cover the tail lights when loaded with bikes. However, I will tell you that it's a good idea to use them all the time. I had the occasion to follow our car with bikes on it for 250 miles. Didn't have the covers on the bikes but the tail lights were mounted. Amazing difference in the visibility of the tail lights and the perceived brightness. I'm never going to run without the extra lights again if I have more than a single bike on the rack - lesson learned.

    J.
    I'm mostly gonna be riding with one bike so I was just hoping not having to deal with any extras.

    I would occasionally want to transport 2 bikes but now realize this is a problem. I don't even have wiring on my hitch so to add that and lights is gonna cost me. Does the whole setup take long to install and get ready to go.

  15. #2815
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    I'm mostly gonna be riding with one bike so I was just hoping not having to deal with any extras.

    I would occasionally want to transport 2 bikes but now realize this is a problem. I don't even have wiring on my hitch so to add that and lights is gonna cost me. Does the whole setup take long to install and get ready to go.
    Fastest to set up and remove of all racks I know. My wife can easily do the single tray. I never keep it on, only when I need it.

  16. #2816
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    I'm mostly gonna be riding with one bike so I was just hoping not having to deal with any extras.

    I would occasionally want to transport 2 bikes but now realize this is a problem. I don't even have wiring on my hitch so to add that and lights is gonna cost me. Does the whole setup take long to install and get ready to go.
    It depends on where your tail lights are with respect to the bikes, I guess.

    I take the lights and just wrap a bungee cord around them on the rack straddling the center line in between the wheels of the outermost bike. Takes <1 minute to install them.

    Before, you could see the tail lights but it was through a forest of spokes. With the covers we have, it would have been impossible to see them. What I did note when following our SUV on a 250 miles trip was how much more visible the tail lights were when I did this. So much so that I'm doing it all the time now. This would also be true for any rear rack from whatever manufacturer.

    Here's the light kit I bought:

    Amazon.com: Blazer C7280 LED Rectangular Low Profile Submersible Trailer Light Kit: Automotive

    Then I wired it up to match the trailer lights that come out of the trailer wiring harness on the SUV. Since a trailer relies on the ground to be maintained through the trailer hitch, I just wired the ground to the lights and both connectors. Works great.

    J.

  17. #2817
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I'm calling this a troll. Look at lost post count (5) and just joined.

    Besides that, my rack has never had an issue with being tight in a receiver and that is over three different cars with three different receivers driving over 15,000 miles with it on. There is no issue with this.

    J.
    5 Years on my rack and it NEVER loosened up, even after off-roading with my car in CO to get to trails... Total troll.. The way those bikes looked after it "flew off" the vehicle?? Yeah right
    Current ride(s) 2011 Santa Cruz Blur LT

  18. #2818
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    Quote Originally Posted by OscarW View Post
    5 Years on my rack and it NEVER loosened up, even after off-roading with my car in CO to get to trails... Total troll.. The way those bikes looked after it "flew off" the vehicle?? Yeah right
    Dubfk never posted since. Interwebz.

  19. #2819
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    Just got the rack. Looks solid.

    step 7 of instructions say "position the quick rack to desired depth, 4" minimum insertion, BUT NO LESS THAN 2".

    The 2 inch part doesn't make sense? maybe they mean the ball has to be 2 inches in.

    Anyway so there is no lining up the pin hole with the ball? The ball tightens to any part of the hitch?

    You guys think I will have a problem inserting it the minimum 4 inches with only one bike? That would give me the clearance I need. I think the site says 4.125 but that also works.

  20. #2820
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    You guys think I will have a problem inserting it the minimum 4 inches with only one bike? That would give me the clearance I need. I think the site says 4.125 but that also works.
    I'm in a very similar boat. The minimum insertion listed on the specs for the 2" single super-duty is 4.375" but my receiver is only 4" and there's no room past the end. I called 1UP and talked to them on the phone and they said it will work.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  21. #2821
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    Just got the rack. Looks solid.

    step 7 of instructions say "position the quick rack to desired depth, 4" minimum insertion, BUT NO LESS THAN 2".

    The 2 inch part doesn't make sense? maybe they mean the ball has to be 2 inches in.

    Anyway so there is no lining up the pin hole with the ball? The ball tightens to any part of the hitch?
    The ball pushes up into the corner of the receiver. It has no need to be oriented to the hitch locking pin hole. All the ball does is provide loads of friction so the rack will not slide out of the receiver. The rack does not depend on the ball for any load bearing of the bikes.

    You guys think I will have a problem inserting it the minimum 4 inches with only one bike? That would give me the clearance I need. I think the site says 4.125 but that also works.
    I have the older rack that is similar in configuration to the current 1.25" one that can be used in a 2" receiver as well. At the time when I asked, 1UpUSA said that the end of the 2" piece needs to be about 1" into the receiver. Typically, mine is in much farther than that.

    Again, just use common sense. Get as much of the tongue of the rack into the receiver as you can. If you do have a problem where your hitch is a crazy amount under the bumper then just get an extender and one of those locking pins that takes the slop out of the receiver extender interface. That said, I think the 1UpUSA rack has more than enough tongue for the vast majority of installations. Hitches have to be relatively close to the edge of the bumper or trailers with surge brakes would have interfere with the bumper or the trailer would interfere with the bumper for locking and unlocking the ball.

    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I'm in a very similar boat. The minimum insertion listed on the specs for the 2" single super-duty is 4.375" but my receiver is only 4" and there's no room past the end. I called 1UP and talked to them on the phone and they said it will work.
    Exactly. S/b more than ok.

    J.

  22. #2822
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    Just got a 1 up rack in 1 1/4.
    Can someone explain what to do with the Velcro Strap.
    thanks

  23. #2823
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTRRON View Post
    Just got a 1 up rack in 1 1/4.
    Can someone explain what to do with the Velcro Strap.
    thanks
    It's a safety precaution that I found I really don't need. You use it strap the rack to one of the safety loops on the hitch where you would hook up a chain if you were towing a trailer. This prevents the rack from sliding out if it becomes loose, which it never did for me although some have said it did.
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  24. #2824
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    Is there a few inches of play to move the bike left or right to try to keep the licence plate visible?

    I just ordered one but forgot to check if having a bike on the rack will block my licence plate. Anyone drive a new Nissan Altima with one?
    Most states have laws that list acceptable reason block your rear license plate. In Texas for example a bike rack installed per manufacturer's design is fine to block the rear plate.
    I am willing to bet most states have the same exceptions.

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  25. #2825
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    Cool, that makes sense. Could not figure that out from the directions?
    thanks

  26. #2826
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    I have two 1up racks and have zero idea where either of my velcro straps are. I just don't use them. If I remeber, I put a u lock around the rack but that is more of an anti-theft thing than a rack retention thing.

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  27. #2827
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    It's a safety precaution that I found I really don't need. You use it strap the rack to one of the safety loops on the hitch where you would hook up a chain if you were towing a trailer. This prevents the rack from sliding out if it becomes loose, which it never did for me although some have said it did.
    Never used one in 15,000 miles of driving with the rack.

    J.

  28. #2828
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    So I got the hitch and rack installed (pics when its light out) and am really happy.

    How tight do I need to make the retention ball? I have a bad habit of hamfisting things, so I'll need to be mindful of that.

    Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  29. #2829
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    I only bother doing one side. Never needed to do both to get out a bike out. I lean on the arm a bit and push it into the tire to make pulling the lever up a little easier.

  30. #2830
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?
    I think there are videos on youtube about it but here's what I do. Before pulling up on the release latch I would apply pressure to the arm holding the front tire. While pushing in of that arm towards the rear of the bike this releases the pressure on the release latch. Then pull up on the release and open the arm all the way down. Then just slide the bike out of the other arm which is holding the rear tire.
    Last edited by tonyride1; 10-05-2015 at 07:17 AM.
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  31. #2831
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?
    Just release and swing the front wheel arm first... the rear wheel will hold the bike up.
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  32. #2832
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    I have one. I always install the bikes the same way. My bikes are "long" AM bikes, so I have to place them outboard as much as possible.

    I simply use the left for the front bike's front wheel, and right for the rear bike's front wheel. I adjust the front wheel catch "2nd click" from all the way out. Put the bike on, and then ONLY secure via the rear wheel catch.

    Put the next bike on the opposite direction.

    I tighten them up pretty good, so I cannot do the removal with one hand. I simply push the bracket into the tire with one hand, and release the lever with the other, then pull the bracket back. Done quickly the bike never has a chance to fall before I catch it. Bike is off in 3 seconds, most guys that watch bikes go on/off are amazed at the speed.

    The ONLY downfall of the 1Up is it isn't ideal if your bike has a flat tire. If you have a leak that you didn't know about (As me how I know this), it will get floppy on the drive home. You can see it in the mirror though, if you are paying attention.

  33. #2833
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    So I got the hitch and rack installed (pics when its light out) and am really happy.

    How tight do I need to make the retention ball? I have a bad habit of hamfisting things, so I'll need to be mindful of that.
    All the ball is doing is providing friction between the rack tongue and the receiver. Just get it comfortably tight, you don't need to go nuts on it.

    Another question . . . anyone have a tip for releasing the arms and unloading a bike? I only tried once, but found it a bit awkward to hold the bike, release the catch, and swing the arm. Am I doing something wrong? Guessing that I should probably just do one side at a time?
    Depress one arm into the tire while simultaneously operating the release lever. You just need to relieve some of the pressure and then it's easy. The cam style lever is designed to get tighter the more force is applied to it. You really only need to release one arm.

    J.

  34. #2834
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    My rack or truck must suck cause if I drive on a slightly bumpy road it loosens up, I drove on 3 miles of dirt road (near blue diamond trails of Vegas) and it loosened up, then I tightened it back up when i got onto the pavement and it loosened up again while on the highway during the 4 mile drive back home. I thought it was possible that the receiver was made of a soft steel and the ball in the rack was causing deformation in the steel which loosened the rack, but I think the rack just gets loose. maybe I'll put more threadlock on the bolt that goes in to the rack???

    Oh well. . .guess nothings perfect.
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  35. #2835
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    Call and check with them but try what I do when installing the rack in the hitch. I start to tighten it and when I feel resistance, I lift the rack up a bit and for a half turn or so, it becomes easy again (like it took up the angle-created slop). Then it tightens down normally. It has not come loose ever. I move the rack between vehicles and no issues.

  36. #2836
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_0192.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-fullsizerender.jpg

    Got my 1Up single Quik Rack about 2 weeks ago, and just got my add-on. Man, what a great design. I originally installed the rack in a few minutes, and the add-on took about 30 seconds to put on. Feels super solid. It'll live on my Outback in single-bike mode 90% of the time since I usually ride alone (and with the add-on it definitely obscured my license plate in the folded up position).
    Anyhow, VERY pleased with this rack. I'm using it with a 2" hitch and the adapter. Will keep an eye on it to see if I experience any loosening but it hasn't happened yet.

  37. #2837
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    Anyone have the rack setup for (4) bikes? I am trying to invision the tilt or fold up option working with that many trays.

  38. #2838
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    We have a four. Its a lot to tilt up and down (up more than down) given the location of the locking latch. My wife has a shoulder problem and can't manage the 4 but she's ok with just 3 trays. One of the reasons we spent a little extra for the 1up was because you can reduce 1 spot at a time. Hanging 4 off the car with any rack is a PITA and its nice to be able to never be carrying more spots than you need.

  39. #2839
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Anyone have the rack setup for (4) bikes? I am trying to invision the tilt or fold up option working with that many trays.
    Here are some pics from a couple cars ago... as mentioned it's a bit awkward to pull the release and shoulder it up, but not too bad.





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  40. #2840
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Anyone have the rack setup for (4) bikes? I am trying to invision the tilt or fold up option working with that many trays.
    The fold up option works fine and is useful. The tilt down with 4 bikes is really not useful although most people think it's a "must have" feature when they buy it.

    J.

  41. #2841
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I'm in a very similar boat. The minimum insertion listed on the specs for the 2" single super-duty is 4.375" but my receiver is only 4" and there's no room past the end. I called 1UP and talked to them on the phone and they said it will work.
    I just noticed my hitch has bold inside stopping any hitch to go past 4". So now I do just have enough clearance but am in the same boat as you where I can only insert it 4" and not to the recommended amount. What is the major issue not putting the ball in 2 inches? Is it the rack breaking or coming out?

    I hope there right. I have the 1.25 receiver. Currently only using 1 bike.

    I used it for the first time yesterday and felt sturdy. Since it was my first time ever with my bike on a rack I was watching it closely. It was moving side to side a bit (not left right but towards and away from the car) Didn't have any movement up or down.

    EDIT: Just got an email back from them. They only said "that will still work great".
    Last edited by herder; 10-12-2015 at 07:36 PM.

  42. #2842
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    Yes, 1up Racks DO FALL OFF! What you need to know...

    Although I've often looked on MTBR for information, I've never felt compelled to register and comment until now. I've seen some comments on this 1up post about a Troll, people not believing this rack could fail, etc. You can believe what you want, but here our real story and I believe my husband posted about this on several threads as a warning! We bought the single 1up rack a while back for our Prius so he could keep it on all the time and bring his bike to work to do rides after. We always used Thule T2 racks before and have both a 2 bike + 4 bike Thule set up. He was really impressed by the 1up, so we bought the 2nd bike add-on and switched the Thule out on our truck for our last road trip to Oregon (using the 2" 1Up adapter with 2 bikes). Before leaving Oregon the rack was tightened, as it did loosen after the 7+ hour drive. We did not do any off road driving on this trip, just rode from the paved trailheads. I was about 2 hours into the drive home, driving back on 1-5 going about 65 mph, when the car next to me started waving at me and pointing back. To my surprise the rack with our 2 carbon fiber bikes had fallen off and the Semi truck behind had swerved and missed hitting them as the 1up rack with our 2 bikes slid down the highway before coming to a stop and toppling over! By some miracle the only damage to the bikes was a broken handle bar, as they didn't get hit by any of the other vehicles and somehow stayed upright until the end. If we didn't have a truck, we would not have been able to get the bikes and rack home, the rack was not useable once it fell off, no set screw to be found. I'm including photos so you can see just how lucky we were. The semi pulled over along with a few other cars and pulled the bikes out of the lane before I could turn around and get back to them.

    When I called 1up I was told that the racks do loosen especially on certain vehicles (seems to depend on the suspension) and on bumpy roads and that we were supposed to use the Velcro strap to stop it from falling out until we tighten it. Yes, they suggest tightening it every time you put in gas or more often on a bumpy road. 1up told us that they would not replace the rack but if we sent it back to them they could "repair it". I asked about the cost of repairing the handle bars and they said we could submit a claim to their insurance but we would be denied because we didn't have the Velcro strap through the hitch received as recommended in their instructions. When I said to 1up that they need to redesign this flaw, I was told that "we've sold hundreds of thousands of racks and only ever get great reviews - just look online". That's why both my husband and I have been spreading the word about this problem. If you have the 1up with a 2" adapter and drive a truck, I'll bet you have this problem! Even though we've never seen a 1up using the Velcro straps before, I'd suggest you find the strap and use it. I believe ours got thrown out with the package, but if we decide to ship this back and start using the repaired one, you bet it will be used from now on.

    We've always liked the overall design of the 1up and had talked about replacing our Thule 4 bike with a 1up 4 bike someday, but if they don't redesign this mounting screw and use a more secure pin system, I don't want to rely on a Velcro strap to save our bikes! I've just seen on a different Post some using a chain to secure it, so maybe we'll investigate that option. Just thought it would be helpful to warn others of this issue. But what do I know, I'm just a girl who likes to ride a bike.
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  43. #2843
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    Quote Originally Posted by herder View Post
    I just noticed my hitch has bold inside stopping any hitch to go past 4". So now I do just have enough clearance but am in the same boat as you where I can only insert it 4" and not to the recommended amount. What is the major issue not putting the ball in 2 inches? Is it the rack breaking or coming out?

    I hope there right. I have the 1.25 receiver. Currently only using 1 bike.

    I used it for the first time yesterday and felt sturdy. Since it was my first time ever with my bike on a rack I was watching it closely. It was moving side to side a bit (not left right but towards and away from the car) Didn't have any movement up or down.

    EDIT: Just got an email back from them. They only said "that will still work great".
    I got the exact same reply. I think there are pretty sizable tolerances built into their "minimums." I used the rack for the first time this past weekend, and it worked fine. I have the 2" version and there was zero play.

    Someone here mentioned about inserting the rack, tightening the ball, lifting slightly, and removing the play . . . this is what I've done, and its solid. Zero movement.

    Anyone out there have the locks from 1UP? I'm trying to find something for the hitch/rack (not for the bikes) and what Home Depot/Lowes has won't work (shackles are either too short, or the diameter is too large).
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  44. #2844
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    Anyone out there have the locks from 1UP? I'm trying to find something for the hitch/rack (not for the bikes) and what Home Depot/Lowes has won't work (shackles are either too short, or the diameter is too large).
    I just use a long shackle Master Lock because I had one, but if you want to go with the style that 1up offers (their price isn't too bad BTW), you can look at these:

    Deadbolt Coupler lock | etrailer.com
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    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  45. #2845
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I got the exact same reply. I think there are pretty sizable tolerances built into their "minimums." I used the rack for the first time this past weekend, and it worked fine. I have the 2" version and there was zero play.

    Someone here mentioned about inserting the rack, tightening the ball, lifting slightly, and removing the play . . . this is what I've done, and its solid. Zero movement.

    Anyone out there have the locks from 1UP? I'm trying to find something for the hitch/rack (not for the bikes) and what Home Depot/Lowes has won't work (shackles are either too short, or the diameter is too large).
    I'm just hoping there not saying that because we really have no options to do anything else. I'm hoping its okay.

    Yeah I also noticed that if I lifted a bit after tightening I was able to give it another turn. Seems okay.

  46. #2846
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    I've had a 1up rack for a few years now, and there are a few things I don't like about it:

    • The tilt bar is hard to reach with three or more rack segments installed
    • The corners are sharp. One day I need to take a file and bevel all the corners so I stop scraping my legs
    • The corners of the 2" adapter are too sharp, and it doesn't easily fit in my Toyota hitch because the inside corners have some radius to them. I hastily filed it one day to make it fit, but its still a little tricky to install and remove the rack because it's a tight fit.
    • The red levers have started getting stuck on the base plate when I try to fold the rack. I need to lift them slightly to fold the trays to the storage position (not folded up 90 deg, but folded in towards the hitch for storage in the trunk or garage). I might grind these down a bit to clear the base plate.
    • There is no easy way to carry the rack from the garage to the car with 3 segments installed. It is not very ergonomic for carrying.
    • I think 1upusa used to have a theft guarantee, saying they would replace any rack that gets stolen, but now that there are a lot of them out there and the special wrench is more common, I don't see any mention of that on their website any more. I think I'll need to rig up something to keep the rack from getting stolen off my truck.
    • When it was new, a couple of the small screws on the red levers came loose. I tightened them and added loctite, and nothing else has come loose since then.
    • The trays are slightly too close together, so sometimes it is difficult to position bikes so they won't hit each other.



    I recently had the rack come loose a few times on a rough 4wd road (32 miles of bouncing). Luckily I had a bungee cord on it, so it shifted in (towards the truck) not out. I cranked down hard on the bolt, but when I got home the rack was stuck and extremely difficult to get out of the hitch. The 2" adapter also came loose, and I though maybe that was what made it difficult to remove. But I tightened that back up and put some loctite on that screw, and when I went to install the rack the other day I noticed that the expander ball is getting stuck, so I couldn't get it to fit in the hitch. The bolt still turns freely, but the ball doesn't go back in. Even if I could force the ball down, I'm afraid it would get stuck in the hitch again.

    I should add, I'm still happy with the rack overall.
    Matt

  47. #2847
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    the expander ball is stupid. Some day I might just drill it so I can put a locking hitch pin in.

    For now I lock it to the hitch with a u lock.

  48. #2848
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    The newest version has a built in shackle hasp for installing a lock that blocks access to the expander bolt. I also have the old version, and I found that a little WD-40 sprayed into the receiver helps a lot with removing and inserting the rack.

  49. #2849
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    Question related to fenders

    I am considering one of these, but I have full coverage fenders on one of my bikes, and even with the pad they give you, I still think it would break the fender or fender stays if I really clamped down on it. Not an issue in the front (it the arm will grab in front of the front fender) but it is an issue in the back.

    What I am wondering is if I could lightly clamp down on the rear just enough to gently touch the fender, but then use a strap at the bottom of the wheel to tightly secure it to the tray. I would be looking to the tray arm to just work as a guide to keep it upright.

    My thinking here is that a lot of racks just clamp the front wheel and strap the rear wheel to the tray, so this COULD work, but not having seen the design in the flesh I am just not sure.

    Thanks.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  50. #2850
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    I am considering one of these, but I have full coverage fenders on one of my bikes, and even with the pad they give you, I still think it would break the fender or fender stays if I really clamped down on it. Not an issue in the front (it the arm will grab in front of the front fender) but it is an issue in the back.

    What I am wondering is if I could lightly clamp down on the rear just enough to gently touch the fender, but then use a strap at the bottom of the wheel to tightly secure it to the tray. I would be looking to the tray arm to just work as a guide to keep it upright.

    My thinking here is that a lot of racks just clamp the front wheel and strap the rear wheel to the tray, so this COULD work, but not having seen the design in the flesh I am just not sure.

    Thanks.
    I would not trust that. The racks that clamp down only on the front wheel do so just past the highest point of the wheel (towards the downtube side). The 1-up rack hits and hold the wheel before the highest point of the wheel since it is also relying on the other end being held steady and being pushed towards it. If the rear wheel isn't secured well enough, the front wheel/steer tube can rotate and the bike can fall over even when the front arm is "closed" on the wheel. MAYBE, if the reverse were true and you could get a secure fit on the rear with a loose fit on the front, then you would be OK.

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