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  1. #2751
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    5 years with every bike imaginable in all weather and all types of roads and speeds and the wobble has never been a big deal. No issues. It just looks funny.
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  2. #2752
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    Just a quick tip:

    Lube the notches if the release bar is binding. Simple fix.

  3. #2753
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    I'm pretty sure my wife lets me buy what I want cause she thinks there a good chance of a life insurance pay out if I ride more.
    That's the best line i've heard in a while..LOL!

  4. #2754
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20150902_194328.jpg

  5. #2755
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-kimg0226.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-kimg0227.jpgI just installed a receiver hitch on my new car so I can still use my 1up rack.
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  6. #2756
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    Starting to think about the 1up and this thread is overwhelming. I know it has the best reputation and I've seen it in a few parking lots.

    What's with the new wheel saver thing they are selling? Is it because people are complaining about too much wobble? is it for using when you have a regular bike in with the fat bike adapter?

    Im also a little confused about something I read earlier, When you insert the rack into the hitch receiver....is there not a set point where it stops or where a whole lines up with the whole in the hitch? I could have completely missed that but something i read made it sound like you have somewhat of an option as to how far you insert the rack into the receiver

  7. #2757
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Starting to think about the 1up and this thread is overwhelming. I know it has the best reputation and I've seen it in a few parking lots.

    What's with the new wheel saver thing they are selling? Is it because people are complaining about too much wobble? is it for using when you have a regular bike in with the fat bike adapter?

    Im also a little confused about something I read earlier, When you insert the rack into the hitch receiver....is there not a set point where it stops or where a whole lines up with the whole in the hitch? I could have completely missed that but something i read made it sound like you have somewhat of an option as to how far you insert the rack into the receiver
    Just buy it.


  8. #2758
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    is it for using when you have a regular bike in with the fat bike adapter?

    Im also a little confused about something I read earlier, When you insert the rack into the hitch receiver....is there not a set point where it stops or where a whole lines up with the whole in the hitch? I could have completely missed that but something i read made it sound like you have somewhat of an option as to how far you insert the rack into the receiver
    This is exactly why I'm considering the adapter. I have my rack set up for my fat bike but I also carry my 29x2.3" bike and it does move around more than I like.

    As for a stop point, it doesn't have one so you'll have to take note of how far you insert it into your hitch. The receiver hitch on my Mazda3 is open front and rear so the rack can go past through and poke at the muffler. 1UP USA recommends you insert the rack about 2" in so I put tape 2" from the tip to mark where to stop and then cam it down at that point.
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  9. #2759
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    As for a stop point, it doesn't have one so you'll have to take note of how far you insert it into your hitch. The receiver hitch on my Mazda3 is open front and rear so the rack can go past through and poke at the muffler. 1UP USA recommends you insert the rack about 2" in so I put tape 2" from the tip to mark where to stop and then cam it down at that point.
    My receiver is not open in the back, so the rack inserts a few inches then stops. I guess it depends on your receiver. Mine's simple, otherwise just do what Tonyride1 does and mark on the insert where you want it to stop, then tighten it there.

    Keep in mind that if you buy the rack, and for some reason don't want it, you have up to 60 days to return it. 1upUSA will give you a full refund, there's no restocking fee, and they pay the return shipping. Can't beat that!

  10. #2760
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    Also, I marked the minimum insertion with a dotted line with a permanent maker. I then discovered that as long as I didn't insert it more than an extra 1/4 inch past the minimum insertion, I could still open the hatch on my SUV even with the rack folded in the vertical position (with two bike trays). I put a solid line at that point. So as long as I insert it between the two lines, I'm set.

  11. #2761
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    That seems so foreign to me as my current Thule has a hole in it and you line it up with the hole in the hitch for the pin and then it bolts through. how does the mechanism work for 1up? are you screwing something into hitch receiver hole and it's just tightening into the male end of the 1up?

  12. #2762
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    That seems so foreign to me as my current Thule has a hole in it and you line it up with the hole in the hitch for the pin and then it bolts through. how does the mechanism work for 1up? are you screwing something into hitch receiver hole and it's just tightening into the male end of the 1up?
    There is an internal wedge which pushes a steel ball outwards. This wedges the unit into the receiver. Very slick, very secure and way faster than lining up holes and using pins. Also, zero slop or rattle with this system.

    And you can position the rack in or out for best fit.
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  13. #2763
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    Agreed, much better than hitch pin setup because of the fact that it takes the slop out of the hitch/receiver interface. If your hesitant about getting the system because of that aspect of the design - don't be. Super easy to use and rock solid.

  14. #2764
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    More curious than concerned. I assumed however it works, it works well since its so popular. I have a thule doubletrack that is a few years old. works ok, doesn't look great and 99% of the time I only use 1 bike on the rack anyway. I also have a fat bike that doesn't really fit on it without me using additional tie downs.

    What's the verdict with the wheel saver? Get it, dont get it?

    I find it interesting that they say on the website that if you buy the fat bike spacer they will install it for you and not give you the other piece since you wont need for other bikes. But now they sell a separate piece to use when you have the fat tire adapter in it?

  15. #2765
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    What's the verdict with the wheel saver? Get it, dont get it?

    I find it interesting that they say on the website that if you buy the fat bike spacer they will install it for you and not give you the other piece since you wont need for other bikes. But now they sell a separate piece to use when you have the fat tire adapter in it?
    I see how you can be confused so here's my take given my own personal experience. I bought the 1up rack a couple of years ago without the fat bike kit. Then earlier this year I bought a fat bike so I got the fat bike kit for my rack. I removed the old hardware in order to install the kit. That old hardware was put in the bag where the kit came in and I've never touched it since. So for the past 7 months or so I've been using the rack with the fat bike kit to carry by fat bike and non-fat bike. With the fat bike on the rack it's perfect. No fore or aft movement (with respect to the car's orientation, not the bike's) of the bike on the rack. When I carry my non-fat 29er it still sits in the rack just fine but now there's a lot more room on the rack for the thinner tires to potentially "move" around because of the wider cone-shaped pieces separating the side bars. That in and of itself really isn't an issue as the cone-shaped pieces are still capable of putting enough grip on the thinner tires to keep it relatively still but sometimes if the tires lose just a little bit of pressure or you didn't clamp it down tight enough the tire(s) may move fore or aft (again, with respect to the car's orientation. Left or right of the bike) with all the bouncing, braking, and accelerating the car does during transit. Now, even if that happens it's still no big deal because even though the tires may have shifted they still sit seated centered on the tray. It just "wiggles" a bit more. So now that's how I carry my non-fat bike. I never remove the fat-bike kit and put the old hardware back on the rack just to carry my non-fat bike. This is the reason why when they put the kit on the rack for you at the factory you don't also get the "old" non-fat bike hardware because you won't ever have a need for them anymore. Now, should you get the wheel saver? That's going to have to be on your personal experience and preference. For some people their non-fat bikes never shifted during transit while being carried on a fat bike equipped rack and they don't mind a little "wiggling". Those people will probably not get the wheel saver. For others who don't tighten down that hard or have enough temperature changes during the day to affect the tire pressure enough to allow the tires to lose grip of the cone-shaped pieces and shift then having the wheel saver might be a good idea. But even in that situation the bike is still OK. Now, for me I can see great benefits to having a wheel saver and here's why. The 1up rack only works well if both tires of the bike are fully inflated (no flats) because that's how the rack grips the bike. No touching of metal parts at all. No clamps to the frame, no straps to hold down the wheels. Just cone to tires, tires to tray. So if you have a flat then there're really nothing stable for the rack to hold on to. Of course who would leave a bike flat and not fix it on the trail or at least at the trail head, right? Well if you're running tubeless you don't carry a spare tube and sometimes (though very rare) you cut the side of the tire and you flat out. This has happened. With that I'm thinking with the wheel saver partially cradling the wheels may provide a more stable platform to hold the bike during transit. That's just my take.
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  16. #2766
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    Thanks Tony, That was very helpful.

    I've been back reading through the thread a bit and i think I have a better understanding of the interface with the hitch now. So if you were looking into the hitch with the rack on it I'm taking it that is where the security screw goes and then the hole where people are putting a u lock through is another safe guard so you can't access the screw

  17. #2767
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    Thanks Tony, That was very helpful.

    I've been back reading through the thread a bit and i think I have a better understanding of the interface with the hitch now. So if you were looking into the hitch with the rack on it I'm taking it that is where the security screw goes and then the hole where people are putting a u lock through is another safe guard so you can't access the screw
    You can access the screw but the main part of the rack is locked to the hitch. You'd have to destroy the rack to get the U lock off.

    J.

  18. #2768
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    So if you were looking into the hitch with the rack on it I'm taking it that is where the security screw goes and then the hole where people are putting a u lock through is another safe guard so you can't access the screw
    That's not entirely correct. I would recommend watching some youtube videos on the rack to get a better understanding of how the locking mechanism works. People do use U-locks for security and safety but it won't block the "screw" of the rack used to tighten and loosen the cam to secure it to the hitch.
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  19. #2769
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    Most of the videos and things on the net show the older 1up rack. The current racks are made so you can put a padlock on them blocking access to the mounting bolt/screw. I then used the padlock to hook a chain to my hitch with very little slop to keep the rack from being able to pull out if something happens to the internal wedge dohicky, I am paranoid.

  20. #2770
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    Quote Originally Posted by canker View Post
    The current racks are made so you can put a padlock on them blocking access to the mounting bolt/screw. I then used the padlock to hook a chain to my hitch with very little slop to keep the rack from being able to pull out if something happens to the internal wedge dohicky, I am paranoid.
    I stand correct. It's good that they added the locking feature.
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  21. #2771
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I stand correct. It's good that they added the locking feature.
    Agree. That was a simple fix that sort of ended the whole discussion about the security tool issue. I'm glad that did that even though it wasn't a problem in the first place.

    J.

  22. #2772
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    Don't know if anyone else has had to test their warranty, but I have. After about 25,000 miles of carrying bikes, the weld from the hitch bar to the rack broke on mine over the weekend. (I have the older model that is convertible between 1 1/4" and 2"). I called 1up yesterday and they located my invoice for the purchase and asked me to send a photo. 10 minutes later they e-mailed back to let me know they were sending replacement parts. I received a shipping confirmation today. All in all, excellent service.


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  23. #2773
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    Did it dump the bikes or was there just a crack in the weld?

  24. #2774
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    Don't know if anyone else has had to test their warranty, but I have. After about 25,000 miles of carrying bikes, the weld from the hitch bar to the rack broke on mine over the weekend. (I have the older model that is convertible between 1 1/4" and 2"). I called 1up yesterday and they located my invoice for the purchase and asked me to send a photo. 10 minutes later they e-mailed back to let me know they were sending replacement parts. I received a shipping confirmation today. All in all, excellent service.
    That's not too bad, actually . . . 25K miles of hauling bikes (if primarily back/forth between local trails), that's gotta be a few years worth of riding. Glad to hear that they provided solid support (no pun intended!)

    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Did it dump the bikes or was there just a crack in the weld?
    Goof question though . . .
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  25. #2775
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Did it dump the bikes or was there just a crack in the weld?
    Yes, I'd like to know, too. I also have an older (~3 years) 1-1/4" rack. Cracks in aluminum, depending on the length and depth, can be catastrophic and can just snap right off if the rack is loaded and being transported. Unlike steel where a crack will need several cycles of up and down motion of a loaded rack for it to break off.
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  26. #2776
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    The rack is used for both local and longer trips. We live in the San Francisco Bay Area and my son is a downhill junky/racer. We go to Northstar 10-12 times a year as well Mammoth and Snow Summit, plus the odd trips to Downieville and Tahoe Rim Trail. Until last year we were carrying two bike (40 pounds and 35 pounds) but now also regularly take a third bike (25-25 pounds).

    We were really fortunate how it broke. We were in Truckee and had dinner, at which point everything was fine, and then drove back to where we stay, about 1/2 mile away. When I got out of the car, the bikes were tilted back about 15 degrees. While the weld broke, the bolt the tensions the locking ball in the hitch kept the rack from completely collapsing. I am not sure how long it would have lasted if we were on the freeway. It cost me a bit of driving, as it was Labor day so I had to go down to Reno and rent a Uhaul trailer, as we had 4 bikes with us (one in the car).

    As I only use a 2" hitch, I asked, and 1Up was kind enough to allow me to pay the difference to get the heavy duty 2" only bracket (there are different side plates apparently to change over). Looking that the 2", you can see that the connection has more than twice the surface area, so I don't believe there will ever be a problem with it.

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  27. #2777
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    Wow! Close call. I can just imagine speeding down through Kingsvale, here a snap, and then see thousands of dollars of bikes and rack tumbling along behind you.

  28. #2778
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    Yea, tell me about it. It would have been one hell of an insurance claim.


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  29. #2779
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    Insurance. That's what I always think about when somebody is tailgating my $1,500 dollar truck that has $15,000 worth of bikes on the rack. Their insurance agent is going to shat himself.

  30. #2780
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    While the weld broke, the bolt the tensions the locking ball in the hitch kept the rack from completely collapsing. I am not sure how long it would have lasted if we were on the freeway.

    Yowzers, I can see why there's a 2 bike max on the 1-1/4" now! Glad it didn't mess up your bikes!

    Good thing that bolt bought you some time! Looks like you were miles away from quite a spark show.
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  31. #2781
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    Yowzers, I can see why there's a 2 bike max on the 1-1/4" now!
    The max is 2 bikes now for the 1-1/4" version? It was 3 at one point.
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  32. #2782
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    The max is 2 bikes now for the 1-1/4" version? It was 3 at one point.
    I stand corrected... the website says 3.

    I was thinking of the 1-1/4" adapter that has a max of 2 add-ons.
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  33. #2783
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    FWIW, I have the original 1UpUSA rack that would work in both 1.25" and 2" and was spec'ed to handle 4 bikes in a 2" receiver. I still use it that way and it's got thousands and thousands of long distance usage on it that way. The whole issue is not the rack failing, it's that 1.25" hitches are not rated to handle the full load of the rack capacity at 4 bikes. Most people don't know what their receivers are rated it and hence the problem.

    J.

  34. #2784
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    FWIW, I have the original 1UpUSA rack that would work in both 1.25" and 2" and was spec'ed to handle 4 bikes in a 2" receiver. I still use it that way and it's got thousands and thousands of long distance usage on it that way. The whole issue is not the rack failing, it's that 1.25" hitches are not rated to handle the full load of the rack capacity at 4 bikes. Most people don't know what their receivers are rated it and hence the problem.

    J.
    Exactly this. I ran mine for a while on the back of a BMW 530i, which only had a 1 1/4" receiver. Per the hitch manufacture, they wanted additional straps connected to the rack when carrying bikes. Even with two bikes, the hitch flexed a lot. The problem was remedied when I had my mechanic reinforce the hitch itself (he fabricates roll bar cages), by adding angle iron to it. Three bikes would have resulted in a catapult.
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  35. #2785
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cary View Post
    Exactly this. I ran mine for a while on the back of a BMW 530i, which only had a 1 1/4" receiver. Per the hitch manufacture, they wanted additional straps connected to the rack when carrying bikes. Even with two bikes, the hitch flexed a lot. The problem was remedied when I had my mechanic reinforce the hitch itself (he fabricates roll bar cages), by adding angle iron to it. Three bikes would have resulted in a catapult.
    Good solution.

    I neglected to add that we have always used it in a 2" receiver and even with 4 bikes, it works well. Any rack cantilevered out like that will have some bounce but it looks worse from the car than if you were driving alongside and observing it (I've done both). At any rate, it wasn't a problem and worked well in a 2" receiver rated for the load.

    I even - inadvertently I might add - pretty much took our SUV almost airborne when I hit a ridge in the highway at about 85mph on one of our trips. No problems.

    J.

  36. #2786
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    Not that I would know, but back there in the slipstream, the bikes are stable at 120mph+. You see some people driving really fast on highway 5 in the middle of the night.


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  37. #2787
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    BEWARE - make sure you use the cheap velcro strap (or other design of your choice) to keep the rack on your vehicle - the mounting system is a real weak link in the 1Up system. This is my rack on the side of Interstate 5 after it FELL OF MY TRUCK. I tighten the hitch mounting screw every time I use and every time I stop on longer trips. The mounting / retention system is a serious flaw in an otherwise great product

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  38. #2788
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    Mine has never loosened up, but that mounting system bugs me enough that I'll always use a u-lock.

  39. #2789
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    Never had a problem but interested in finding out why your mechanism does this. Have you discussed this with 1UP? In theory, it is not as secure as a bolt that goes through it...no doubt about that. When I tighten mine, I lift the rack (with some strength) a few time to eliminate play while tightening...and before fully tightening. I always find a little play that way and can tighten it more. Will watch it though.

  40. #2790
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    Mine stays on for 9 months every year,has never loosened up.

  41. #2791
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    Quote Originally Posted by selston View Post
    BEWARE - make sure you use the cheap velcro strap (or other design of your choice) to keep the rack on your vehicle - the mounting system is a real weak link in the 1Up system. This is my rack on the side of Interstate 5 after it FELL OF MY TRUCK. I tighten the hitch mounting screw every time I use and every time I stop on longer trips. The mounting / retention system is a serious flaw in an otherwise great product

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    I'm calling this a troll. Look at lost post count (5) and just joined.

    Besides that, my rack has never had an issue with being tight in a receiver and that is over three different cars with three different receivers driving over 15,000 miles with it on. There is no issue with this.

    J.

  42. #2792
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    I find it amazing that it fell of the truck and came to a stop so neatly with no apparent damage to anything. I can't seem to zoom in on the picture however....
    Regardless, troll or not, the vast majority of us have had the rack on for many miles or days on end without it loosening up at all. That said, however, there have been others that have said that if they check it during a long trip or every few days that they notice that they can tighten the bolt up again, suggesting that it is slowly loosening. Someone else posted evidence that their hitch receiver was actually deforming from the expander bolt, causing it to loosen. I wonder, therefore, if the people that have it coming loose have that problem because of soft hitch receiver metal. I'm sure that is hard to quantitate or assess, but it remains to reason that if you are having to snug up the bolt ever trip, something is a little off in the setup as a whole. In that case, you sure as heck should add the velcro strap (or u-bolt) for added security. Since the problem appears to be quite rare, I love the system they used because it gives us the chance to titrate how far in or out the rack sits and makes it far easier and faster to put the rack on for those of us that take it off and put it on frequently.

  43. #2793
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    yes, but in order for it to simply come out, it would have to be incredibly loose in the receiver. The retention ball mechanism only provides a friction hold in the receiver. Just put your fully loaded rack in the receiver and see how much force it takes to drag it out of the receiver with no lifting - just horizontal drag - without the ball contacting the receiver wall at all. If it works itself out, it's going to take a lo-o-o-ong time. So I have a hard time understanding how it could just fall out in a properly sized receiver. Furthermore, any time you brake in the car, it's going to want to go deeper into the receiver. Wind pressure against the bikes is going to want to cock the tongue at an angle in the receiver putting more pressure against the top of the receiver - also adding friction.

    I give this story a low rank for believability. Not an impossibility (but may be close), but I would be a lot more inclined to look at operator error rather than design error for sure.

    J.

  44. #2794
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    poster only has 5 posts and all about this topic....

  45. #2795
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    Quote Originally Posted by hankscorpio View Post
    poster only has 5 posts and all about this topic....
    If 1up actually decided to do some marketing for a change I say let them.

  46. #2796
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    That certainly appears suspicious.

    I do however, find that wiggling it up a time or two near a certain tight point does snug it up better. The weight makes it rest at an angle. Lifting it up gets me a little more of a turn and really gets it to zero play either side.

  47. #2797
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    2 plus years, never had rack loosen (yet).
    don't tell me, "Show Me " !

  48. #2798
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    I have put thousands of off road miles on my rack and "NEVER" had one problem with the rack. I think that post is a joke.

  49. #2799
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    I have put thousands of off road miles on my rack and "NEVER" had one problem with the rack. I think that post is a joke.
    I tend to agree, I have also never had an issue with 3000+ mile trips including off-roading, but

    There seems to be a tiny fraction of folks that have an issue keeping things tight. Most likely because their hitch is wonky and they don't know it.

    To that end, I think 1up would do well if they added some kind of chain with a carabiner just to put a nail in this issue... perceived or real.
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  50. #2800
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    So with a padlock I can easily secure the newer racks now? I don't really want to secure the rack to the hitch and have to get under there all the time. I am looking for a rack for some weekend trips but mostly to take my mountain bike out on a Sunday.

    I'm thinking this is the best option. I won't have the rack on my car a lot. Basically put in on before I go and remove it when I get back. I do worry a bit of it being stolen when I'm out on the trails but this padlock solution seems okay. Its simple enough right.

    You think this rack would be my best option then? I know Kuat makes some nice racks but this might be easier to install and remove frequently.

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