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  1. #2651
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    Quote Originally Posted by rdb View Post
    A chain offers the best security.
    Agreed. They are heavy though, so I don't like to run one while driving so it doesn't damage the bikes. I only use the chain when I have to park over night at a hotel or something like that.

    I happen to use a 12mm OnGuard Beast Chain:
    http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o02_s00

    with a pair of OnGuard 8046 Boxer mini U-locks.
    OnGuard 8046 Boxer x4 Disc Lock with Pouch Reminder 5 8" | eBay

    Obviously with the advent of battery powered angle grinders (ever watch Storage Wars), all manners of security are only a deterrent. But with a chain you at least deter thieves of opportunity that can nip through a cable in <5 minutes with a wire cutter or a few seconds with a small bolt cutter. And also remember that your lock point to the car probably becomes the point of least resistance -- like the safety chain loop on the hitch, the hitch itself, or the cross-bars on your roof. With my little U-locks, I'll lock the chain right to the chainstay of the bike(s) so the thief would have to cut the bike. Bottom line, bring the bike inside if you can!
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  2. #2652
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    I went with the toughest chain my local hardware store had (yellowish colored links, highest load capacity). That chain requires 48" bolt cutters, which I figure not too many criminals carry w/ them. I then took an intertube and slid it over the chain, and wrapped the ends with gorilla tape so just one link sticks out each end.

    Total investment is less than $20 and should keep away 99% of a$$holes.

  3. #2653
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    I currently have a single rack on my C Class with a 1.25" receiver. Does anyone else experience shaking/wobbling of the bike during highway speeds?

  4. #2654
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    Quote Originally Posted by DUNXXX View Post
    I currently have a single rack on my C Class with a 1.25" receiver. Does anyone else experience shaking/wobbling of the bike during highway speeds?
    i have used a strap on the bottom of the front wheel of my 29er to keep it from wobbling around. the 26" bikes don't have that problem.

  5. #2655
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    Thanks for the tip. I should've mentioned its a 29er on the rack

  6. #2656
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antikid View Post
    i have used a strap on the bottom of the front wheel of my 29er to keep it from wobbling around. the 26" bikes don't have that problem.
    The front wheel 'wobble' on my 29er caused me to throw in the towel on mine. I just couldn't get my XL 29er with big tires to stay stable enough on the rack to feel confident while driving. Maybe I'm too paranoid but I would look back and see the steering wheel going left to right and see the bike swaying at the same time. Made me wonder if the fork bushing were getting a work out after a 2 hour drive. I didn't try a strap like you mention here but I think that defeats the ease of a rack this expensive. Really wish they made made an extension or XL version so that the contact points were higher for larger wheels. Maybe just have a deeper tray add on for the front wheel would do the trick. I'm now using an Inno tire hold rack with a similar design. It holds my XL 29er much better. The rack flexes more but the steering wobble is solved since the tires are held closer to the top part of the wheel. The build quality is almost laughable compared to the 1up though. There's no comparison there. The 1up is a beast.

  7. #2657
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    The front wheel 'wobble' on my 29er caused me to throw in the towel on mine. I just couldn't get my XL 29er with big tires to stay stable enough on the rack to feel confident while driving...
    I don't experience any wobble with my bikes (medium frame 26" wheels) but I just wanted to point out that 1UP sells wheel locks that would make it impossible for your bike to come out of the rack plus you have the added benefit that your bike is secure enough to run into a gas station or whatever.
    Killing it with close inspection.

  8. #2658
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    ... Really wish they made made an extension or XL version so that the contact points were higher for larger wheels. Maybe just have a deeper tray add on for the front wheel would do the trick. ...
    My thoughts exactly. I have an XL FS 29er with the same problem. After my first drive with my bike on the rack I thought the rack goes back. I sort of figured out a way to make the wobble not as bad, after you lock the bike in the rack, you sort of pull and rotate the front wheel through the arm and make the arm click one more time. It squishes the front tire, locks the front wheel with extra force and makes the wobble not as pronounced. When I have 2 bikes on the rack, bikes sort of interlock with each other and the problem goes away.

  9. #2659
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    The front wheel 'wobble' on my 29er caused me to throw in the towel on mine. I just couldn't get my XL 29er with big tires to stay stable enough on the rack to feel confident while driving. Maybe I'm too paranoid but I would look back and see the steering wheel going left to right and see the bike swaying at the same time. Made me wonder if the fork bushing were getting a work out after a 2 hour drive. I didn't try a strap like you mention here but I think that defeats the ease of a rack this expensive. Really wish they made made an extension or XL version so that the contact points were higher for larger wheels. Maybe just have a deeper tray add on for the front wheel would do the trick. I'm now using an Inno tire hold rack with a similar design. It holds my XL 29er much better. The rack flexes more but the steering wobble is solved since the tires are held closer to the top part of the wheel. The build quality is almost laughable compared to the 1up though. There's no comparison there. The 1up is a beast.
    I've noticed it on mine too. As for security issues, I just drove across the country with my 1up and the bike survived without issue. Never thought for a second the bike would go flying out. As for fork workout, I kind of wondered about it. My bike is functioning perfectly though and the fork is designed to be turned. I would think the majority of the "work" goes to the headset. You should do minor bearing overhauls every so often regardless. Ultimately I'm not super concerned about the wobble on my 29er.

    On a side note, anyone have a spare black add on tray for a 1.25 inch rack that they're looking to get rid of? PM me or hit me up if so! Thanks /end shameless plug for my rack...

  10. #2660
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev View Post
    I've noticed it on mine too. As for security issues, I just drove across the country with my 1up and the bike survived without issue. Never thought for a second the bike would go flying out. As for fork workout, I kind of wondered about it. My bike is functioning perfectly though and the fork is designed to be turned. I would think the majority of the "work" goes to the headset. You should do minor bearing overhauls every so often regardless. Ultimately I'm not super concerned about the wobble on my 29er.
    .
    My guess is it's probably not creating that much wear at all on the fork bushings if the wobble is within a reasonable range. I can see how 26, 27.5 and most 29ers wouldn't have the same amount of wobble on the 1up. On my XL 29er I could see my MRP fork compress slightly when I turned the wheel to left/right to simulate the wobble I was getting. Seems like this could be easily be fixed with an add on part to hold the wheel from rotating in the tray. I wanted to keep the rack so I thought about making a 3D printed part that could snap fit into the tray to hold the wheel from turning..but decided not to bother since I have limited time.

  11. #2661
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    I find this wobble intriguing. Do I understand the the wheel will wobble left/right (due to vibration?) while driving?

    What about using some kind of strap/tie-down from the front wheel back to a pedal, or the rear wheel?

  12. #2662
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    The left to right steering wobble is from the wind hitting the front wheel from the side. The front wheel sits on a concave tray so as the wheel moves 15-20 degrees to the left from the wind the concave tray makes it return(steer) back to the original straight position. As you drive faster the front wheel gets into a back and fourth rhythm which is what we're calling 'wobble' here. Again, myself and maybe a few other are the only ones who have noticed this. It's mostly annoying than a problem and it seems to happen on larger 29ers. I'm pretty sure it's due to not getting enough overlap from the two pivoting bars since the contact point is much lower on the larger wheel. A front wheel strap will minimize the issue but I don't like the idea of having to grab a tie down every time I go for a ride. Perhaps there's a way to retrofit a Yakima or Thule type ratchet strap on there to hold it down tight.

  13. #2663
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    It must be at least partially related to the vehicle, too - that would influence how much slipstream it sees. I have a '95 Trooper, and I've never noticed this issue on a 29er with 2.5 Minion DHFs, even at 75 mph into a headwind.

    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  14. #2664
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    what about using their wheel saver accessory? it will give the front tire more surface area to grab onto the rack:

    https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html

  15. #2665
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr8fasushi View Post
    what about using their wheel saver accessory? it will give the front tire more surface area to grab onto the rack:

    https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html
    that will probably work perfectly. I wish I had known about them so I could have saved 8$ for shipping! Now I might try to come up with something homemade that does the same before spending the extra $$.
    meh, for 42$ for 3 of them, its not worth messing with. they better work though

  16. #2666
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    It must be at least partially related to the vehicle, too - that would influence how much slipstream it sees. I have a '95 Trooper, and I've never noticed this issue on a 29er with 2.5 Minion DHFs, even at 75 mph into a headwind.

    Nice bike! Yep, I would say that your on to something. My ride is a Mazda 3 hatchback so the bike sticks out more than your trooper. Also, looking at your image the contact points on mine was probably an 1/2 -1" lower down on the tires.

  17. #2667
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    Good find! I just emailed customer support asking if that will fit 2.3 - 2.5" tires. In the image it's showing a bike with tiny tires. If it doesn't push the contact point too far down the tire it could solve the issue. I will chime in once I hear back from CS.

  18. #2668
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    It must be at least partially related to the vehicle, too - that would influence how much slipstream it sees...
    It most definitely does. I see it a lot with MINI and almost don't see it with my wife's RX350

  19. #2669
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    Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Good find! I just emailed customer support asking if that will fit 2.3 - 2.5" tires. In the image it's showing a bike with tiny tires. If it doesn't push the contact point too far down the tire it could solve the issue. I will chime in once I hear back from CS.
    Let us know what they say. If it does fit wider tires, I'm ready to buy and see if its really helps with the wobbles.

  20. #2670
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Nice bike! Yep, I would say that your on to something. My ride is a Mazda 3 hatchback so the bike sticks out more than your trooper. Also, looking at your image the contact points on mine was probably an 1/2 -1" lower down on the tires.
    Thanks. One thing you can see in that is that if it's a bit offset, you can get the contact point higher on the front wheel. That's accidental in that picture; it was just the first one I found on my phone and I was only driving around town. But it might help.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  21. #2671
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    They wobble because it is clamping onto rubber filled with air. Push the bar tighter and it will help. It is not damaging your bike in any way.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    I'm a mountain bike guide in South West Utah

  22. #2672
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    They wobble because it is clamping onto rubber filled with air. Push the bar tighter and it will help. It is not damaging your bike in any way.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Nah...
    making it tighter against the tires did not improve the crazy wobble I was getting past 50MPH. I think this would help more on a 27.5 or 26er. The Inno tire hold rack I'm using now hits my 29er wheels higher up on the wheels closer to 2 o'clock position and I get very little to no wobble. It's the same design more or less, just flimsier. Still waiting to hear back from customer service about the adapter. I might order up another rack if the say it fits larger wheels.

  23. #2673
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    I have an XL 29er. I know exactly what it is. It wobbles. It attaches to a non-solid part of your bike. That is why. The wobbling is epically less than the trail vibrations you get. It isn't going to hurt your bike.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
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  24. #2674
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    Quote Originally Posted by El_Zilcho View Post
    It most definitely does. I see it a lot with MINI and almost don't see it with my wife's RX350
    Interesting issue... I've got nothing with either my Fiesta or Explorer with my Large 29er.

    In the end this is a dynamic system in engineering speak, and it's resonating.

    Changing the "spring" or "damper" could help or at least effect the system.

    I'd be curious on the
    - vehicle type
    - front bike tire pressure (I usually run about 25 psi)
    - type of glide bar on the rack (I have the old style smooth glide bar as opposed to the new saw-tooth style)
    - - hypothesis here is the saw-tooth might not leave the tire as tight since it has discrete positions?
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  25. #2675
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    I have an XL 29er. I know exactly what it is. It wobbles. It attaches to a non-solid part of your bike. That is why. The wobbling is epically less than the trail vibrations you get. It isn't going to hurt your bike.

    Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
    Good point. I'm only hypothesiszing how it might effect your fork if it's not solidly held. My earlier point was that if you go on 2-4 hour long trip and the fork is fluttering back and fourth the entire time it's creating a little bit of friction in one area of your fork bushings which is a little different then going for a bike ride where the forces are very vertical and linear - not a twisting motion. Even if that's not an issue I like to look back and see my bike solidly attached and not see the wheel fluttering around. While the tire is not a solid part I'm placing my bet that 29ers with longer wheel bases wobble more due to the rack contacting the tire at a lower point. My Inno tire hold rack overlaps closer to the top of the wheel doesn't wobble nearly as much.

  26. #2676
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Quote Originally Posted by DUNXXX View Post
    Glad to hear I'm not the only one with this problem.



    Let us know what they say. If it does fit wider tires, I'm ready to buy and see if its really helps with the wobbles.
    Sweet!
    Customer service just got back and here is what they said about the wheel saver adapter fitting larger tire sizes: "2.5 is stretching it some, but should work"

    That's good news. Who's going to try it first?
    It's located here at very reasonable price: https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html

  27. #2677
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Sweet!
    Customer service just got back and here is what they said about the wheel saver adapter fitting larger tire sizes: "2.5 is stretching it some, but should work"

    That's good news. Who's going to try it first?
    It's located here at very reasonable price: https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html
    I got the same answer. I placed an order.

  28. #2678
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    - type of glide bar on the rack (I have the old style smooth glide bar as opposed to the new saw-tooth style)
    Me too.
    "Back off, man. I'm a scientist." - Dr. Peter Venkman

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  29. #2679
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    ...
    In the end this is a dynamic system in engineering speak, and it's resonating.

    Changing the "spring" or "damper" could help or at least effect the system.

    I'd be curious on the
    - vehicle type
    - front bike tire pressure (I usually run about 25 psi)
    - type of glide bar on the rack (I have the old style smooth glide bar as opposed to the new saw-tooth style)
    - - hypothesis here is the saw-tooth might not leave the tire as tight since it has discrete positions?
    -Mini cooper clubman S
    -Front tire 2.4 Ardent 25 or so psi
    -New type glide bar

    I like the the wind pressure hypothesis. My XL bike sticks out from both sides of my mini. Not as much with lexus.

  30. #2680
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Sweet!
    Customer service just got back and here is what they said about the wheel saver adapter fitting larger tire sizes: "2.5 is stretching it some, but should work"

    That's good news. Who's going to try it first?
    It's located here at very reasonable price: https://www.1upusa.com/product-wheelsaver.html
    I have had 3 on the way since the first guy posted about them on the 15th. Hopefully they help.

  31. #2681
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antikid View Post
    I have had 3 on the way since the first guy posted about them on the 15th. Hopefully they help.
    Excellent. Definitely interested in how these work, especially on a larger 29er with wide tires. Please let us know if it's an improvement after you take your bikes for a ride. Pictures would be appreciated as well!

  32. #2682
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Excellent. Definitely interested in how these work, especially on a larger 29er with wide tires. Please let us know if it's an improvement after you take your bikes for a ride. Pictures would be appreciated as well!
    will do and with pics

  33. #2683
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    Quick update: the wheel saver is way to narrow for a large Mtb tire I will mess with it when I get home today and get some pics.

  34. #2684
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antikid View Post
    Quick update: the wheel saver is way to narrow for a large Mtb tire I will mess with it when I get home today and get some pics.
    Bummer! Can you squeeze it in somehow?

  35. #2685
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-image.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-image.jpg

    they will not work on a 2.4 mountain king.

  36. #2686
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    Quote Originally Posted by Antikid View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	1003659Click image for larger version. 

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    they will not work on a 2.4 mountain king.
    Looks like the width is just not enough. It also looks like it pushes the bar out further away from the tire than I expected. Darnit! Thanks for experimenting for us. Seems like 1up's idea of a 2.5 is really closer to 2.0

  37. #2687
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    Does anybody know if they make a socket version of the hex bolt tool? My wife struggles with the short allen wrench when she's trying to add or subtract a tray. A little longer handle would be helpful.

  38. #2688
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Does anybody know if they make a socket version of the hex bolt tool? My wife struggles with the short allen wrench when she's trying to add or subtract a tray. A little longer handle would be helpful.
    Sure, they're available... a quick google search found this set:
    Klutch Tamper-Resistant SAE Hex Bit Socket Set ¬ó 13-Pc. | Hex Star Socket Sets| Northern Tool + Equipment

    But I wonder if you could even fit a ratchet in the space around the left bolt since it's so close to the frame?

    Have you guys tried lifting the back side of the rack to take the load off the bolts while you screw them in/out? When I do this, I can screw them in/out by hand quite easily and just put a 1/4 turn or so on them with the wrench to tighten them all the way.
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  39. #2689
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Does anybody know if they make a socket version of the hex bolt tool? My wife struggles with the short allen wrench when she's trying to add or subtract a tray. A little longer handle would be helpful.
    The fix is simple. Make sure that when you add the tray you have her pull up on the add-on so that the weight of the drooping tray is not borne by the bolt. If you do that, you can almost spin them mostly tight by hand and add a quick tweak with the tool to tighten fully. Just observe the gap between the add on bracket and the bracket to which the bolts are mounted.

    J.

  40. #2690
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    If lifting the tray doesn't solve the problem, a short length of pipe over the end of the wrench will work.

  41. #2691
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    Quote Originally Posted by DirtDiggler View Post
    Looks like the width is just not enough. It also looks like it pushes the bar out further away from the tire than I expected. Darnit! Thanks for experimenting for us. Seems like 1up's idea of a 2.5 is really closer to 2.0
    damn, I ordered a couple of them too. looks like I'll have to use a hairdryer and force it wider

  42. #2692
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    Quote Originally Posted by gr8fasushi View Post
    damn, I ordered a couple of them too. looks like I'll have to use a hairdryer and force it wider
    I was just thinking the same thing. You might be able to bend it just wide enough to do the job with a hair dryer or a heat gun.

  43. #2693
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    Quote Originally Posted by moldau94 View Post
    Anyone know what these rubber/plastic pieces are on the arms?
    Name:  673991d1329337129-1up-quick-rack-quick-review-capture.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by Valhalla View Post
    They sort act as spacers when you fold it down it keeps the arms aligned and not rubbing metal on metal.
    did the racks come with those rubber spacers? I didn't get any that I can see ... bought one rack last year and another this year.

    i have heard the rack making just a bit of noise while driving folded up ( can minimize by slightly opening arm...but....a more permanent/easy solution would be better )

  44. #2694
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post

    Have you guys tried lifting the back side of the rack to take the load off the bolts while you screw them in/out? When I do this, I can screw them in/out by hand quite easily and just put a 1/4 turn or so on them with the wrench to tighten them all the way.
    Its more an issue with her hand and arm strength. She has some nerve damage.

  45. #2695
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Its more an issue with her hand and arm strength. She has some nerve damage.
    I concur with earlier response, get a small piece of pipe that fits over the hex key handle to increase it's length. This is tried and true for generations of people to get more torque. No need to make modifications to the rack and still maintain some security by keeping the original bolt.

  46. #2696
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    I just put in an order for a 1up single bike rack, dang that put a ding on my wallet, I hope it lives up to the hype.

    Thank you to the folks who posted pics on securing the bike and rack with u-locks and cables, I plan on doing the same as you folks did, I don't live in a very honest city,lol.

    I'm also going to loctite the bolts on the rack when it comes in, I saw some pics of bolts wiggling loose and falling off, I'll buy the red loctite.

  47. #2697
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    did the racks come with those rubber spacers? I didn't get any that I can see ... bought one rack last year and another this year.
    They used to, but several years ago. (I think they cost-reduced them out.) I have one rack with and one without and you're right the one with is quieter and has less rub marks.
    whatever...

  48. #2698
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    Quote Originally Posted by steadite View Post
    They used to, but several years ago. (I think they cost-reduced them out.) I have one rack with and one without and you're right the one with is quieter and has less rub marks.
    Can someone take a close-up of the part? Would it be relatively easy to come up with a home made solution? Just a rubber gasket/sleeve that goes around the arm there?

  49. #2699
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    Never seen one, but would imagine a large cross section o-ring or a few wraps of electrical tape would accomplish the same result.
    don't tell me, "Show Me " !

  50. #2700
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    Haven't had the 1up rack for long, but this thing is amazingly well built and just works. I imagine this lasting a lifetime and multiple vehicles.

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