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  1. #2551
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlbren21 View Post
    Hi Guys! New here, and just got my 1up 2 bike rack with 1 add on. I posted this on another thread but was hoping to get a quick answer!

    I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike.

    Is there a trick to getting them on without them hitting eachother? Maybe have one bike slid all the way to one side, while the other is slid all the way to the other? With my 29ers it didn't look like there was a lot of room to go one way or another? Maybe it's a slight learning curve with use, but thought I would ask here and let some experts chime in! Love how good the rack looks and the machining is fantastic. All the moving parts are flawless and super simple to use. I beleive I will love it, but want to figure out the best way to fit multiple large bikes on it.

    I figured I could drop a seat to make it fit under the bars, but didn't want to mess with that every time I used it. Hope to get some help!
    Dropper posts. It seems all my riding buddies have them now , so it's not an issue anymore. Back when there weren't dropper posts, we would loosen the clamps and drop the saddles, or remove the seat post/saddle altogether.

    Trying to alternate the position of the bikes might work, but it depends how much time and effort is spent I suppose. One way is going to be faster than the other.

  2. #2552
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    Quote Originally Posted by jp08865 View Post
    -----------
    unrooted: Seems to me the only thing that would cause a bulge around the ball like that would be if your receiver is a little larger Inside than a normal receiver, thus forcing the ball to extend further out than normal to lock it into place and bulging the post.
    -----------
    Also: a heads up to other owners. I'd recommend removing the Safety Allen Bolts that come with the rack for 'an add on rack' if you are not using them. I went to remove mine today and they are seized. I should have removed them when new (2 years ago) or at least removed them and applied Anti-Seize.
    Unless yours are truly seized, the security Cap Bolts are captive, and do not come out unless you remove the lock nut on the other side. It's so they can't loosen out and fall off. And they won't get lost.

  3. #2553
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    Attachment 981631Is this normal?
    Is there a hole/void in your receiver where the ball could meet no resistance when tightening the bolt?

    Tightening the bolt with nothing to push against is the only way I can see that happening. Remember, the one up is aluminum and that bolt can seriously leverage the ball against the inside of the hitch. If there isn't a receiver for the ball to stop against it can deform the socket of the aluminum it's inside of.

  4. #2554
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    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    Unless yours are truly seized, the security Cap Bolts are captive, and do not come out unless you remove the lock nut on the other side. It's so they can't loosen out and fall off. And they won't get lost.
    I own one with seized bolts as do a few I ride with. As in they do not budge. I realize there is a nut on the bolt.

    Should have removed them and applied anti seize years ago. They could also do this at the manufacturer. Aluminum and stainless make a good bond after a few years together. Galvonic corrosion.
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  5. #2555
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlbren21 View Post
    Hi Guys! New here, and just got my 1up 2 bike rack with 1 add on. I posted this on another thread but was hoping to get a quick answer!

    I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike.

    Is there a trick to getting them on without them hitting eachother? Maybe have one bike slid all the way to one side, while the other is slid all the way to the other? With my 29ers it didn't look like there was a lot of room to go one way or another? Maybe it's a slight learning curve with use, but thought I would ask here and let some experts chime in! Love how good the rack looks and the machining is fantastic. All the moving parts are flawless and super simple to use. I beleive I will love it, but want to figure out the best way to fit multiple large bikes on it.

    I figured I could drop a seat to make it fit under the bars, but didn't want to mess with that every time I used it. Hope to get some help!
    That is the beauty of this rack. My brother and I couldn't get our two 29ers to fit on the Yakima version. With this rack, I have fit combinations of various 29ers as well as 29 ers with 26, 24, and 20 in bikes. Just move each bike as far forward towards its front wheel side as possible. With the newer ridged locking bar design, I just engage the 2nd locking ridge on the side with the front. The side with the rear will engage a whole bunch more. Then to put the second bike, have the rear holder set where you think it will be and open the front all the way. Set the bike in displaced towards the front wheel and back it in. You should be able to lock the front tire holder on the second ridge before the bikes touch each other.

  6. #2556
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    Quote Originally Posted by carlbren21 View Post
    I was playing around with it tonight and noticed that it was a little akward getting multiple bikes on it that were the same size due to how close the trays were together. I found the handlebars hitting each other, or if in opposite directions, hitting the seat of the other bike.

    Is there a trick to getting them on without them hitting eachother? Maybe have one bike slid all the way to one side, while the other is slid all the way to the other?
    Our experience has been as follows:

    Place first bike on with bars to the left. Set it such that the center of the front tire is about 2" back from the edge of the rack. Set the arms.

    Place second bike with bars to the right with approx. the same 2" back from the edge. Set the arms.

    You have to figure out (at least for us) a proper orientation for the cranks on each bike to make sure they won't touch at all.

    You may not have to put them out to the extremes to get full clearance... but that's where I started and refined the positioning from there.

    Also, once you find the positions... which bike goes on first, second..., which way they should face, and where the front wheel should be relative to tray edge, you'll also bea ble to figure out the most efficient way of lifting and putting the bikes in...

    AND finally, you figure out how far to open the arms to load up.... Just wide enough to get them in while minimizing how much they have to be closed to secure them.


    LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my rack...

    I can load 3 bikes in under 1 minute, no sweat...

  7. #2557
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    Quote Originally Posted by cautery View Post
    Our experience has been as follows:

    Place first bike on with bars to the left. Set it such that the center of the front tire is about 2" back from the edge of the rack. Set the arms.

    Place second bike with bars to the right with approx. the same 2" back from the edge. Set the arms.

    You have to figure out (at least for us) a proper orientation for the cranks on each bike to make sure they won't touch at all.

    You may not have to put them out to the extremes to get full clearance... but that's where I started and refined the positioning from there.

    Also, once you find the positions... which bike goes on first, second..., which way they should face, and where the front wheel should be relative to tray edge, you'll also bea ble to figure out the most efficient way of lifting and putting the bikes in...

    AND finally, you figure out how far to open the arms to load up.... Just wide enough to get them in while minimizing how much they have to be closed to secure them.


    LOVE, LOVE, LOVE my rack...

    I can load 3 bikes in under 1 minute, no sweat...

    Thanks for all the suggestions guys! I will give them a shot And let you know how it goes, though I'm sure you know it should end well for me!

  8. #2558
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    One more thing. To unload, I find it easiest to just open the front side far. The rear will hold the bike in place. Slide/roll the bike forward a bit then lift away. If I'm not in a busy area, I leave the rear one set so I can quickly through the bike in the same spot after the ride.

  9. #2559
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    Quote Originally Posted by albertdc View Post
    One more thing. To unload, I find it easiest to just open the front side far. The rear will hold the bike in place. Slide/roll the bike forward a bit then lift away. If I'm not in a busy area, I leave the rear one set so I can quickly through the bike in the same spot after the ride.
    That's exactly how I unload also.
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  10. #2560
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    That's exactly how I unload also.

    Thanks for the help guys. I used it today, though with only the 1 bike set up, and it worked great. I got the double rack, with 1 add on, and 1 add on adapter to work as a single rack. I really like the modular aspect of the rack. Being able to throw it on for one bike and go, in only a minute or two, is very nice. The ease of use with the mounting and dismounting is great as well. I like the idea of only lowering the front bar to remove the bike and leave the other one be. Will give it a shot tomorrow when I will be hauling 3 bikes.

  11. #2561
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    Hard to believe you'd have a problem if you alternate the bikes and adjust side to side as recommended. Just takes a little practice - these are awesome racks.

    J.

  12. #2562
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    What are people's thoughts on the following "security" system. One of the Kryptonite 7' security cable looping through the bike and through a U-lock located at the hitch (securing the rack to the hitch).

    From what I understand, these security cables are easily defeated. But I am uneasy about putting a "bike chain" on my bike...even with their protective sheaf. 99% of the time I won't be leaving my bike alone. Just want something to protect the bike if I stop at a rest-stop for a few minutes.

  13. #2563
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    I just got a single black version for my new carbon comp camber and I love it! Funny though as I just figured out what the screw knob does

  14. #2564
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickIt View Post
    What are people's thoughts on the following "security" system. One of the Kryptonite 7' security cable looping through the bike and through a U-lock located at the hitch (securing the rack to the hitch).

    From what I understand, these security cables are easily defeated. But I am uneasy about putting a "bike chain" on my bike...even with their protective sheaf. 99% of the time I won't be leaving my bike alone. Just want something to protect the bike if I stop at a rest-stop for a few minutes.
    I think it's situational. A few minutes on a rural interstate? No problem. Stopping for coffee and parking your car around the corner in Chicago? No way.

    When we have bikes on the car and if we stop, we make sure we can see them from where we are. Or we make sure someone stays with the bikes for those few minutes.

    Most cables can be snipped in 5 seconds with a smallish bolt cutter.

    Just because you're paranoid doesn't mean they aren't out to get you.

    J.

  15. #2565
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickIt View Post
    What are people's thoughts on the following "security" system. One of the Kryptonite 7' security cable looping through the bike and through a U-lock located at the hitch (securing the rack to the hitch).

    From what I understand, these security cables are easily defeated. But I am uneasy about putting a "bike chain" on my bike...even with their protective sheaf. 99% of the time I won't be leaving my bike alone. Just want something to protect the bike if I stop at a rest-stop for a few minutes.
    I use the longest noose chain from kryptonite. Chain around the down tube, through the noose. Free end of chain locked to the hitch with one of their short shank mini locks. For the dropper post I either drill out the center of the seat clamp bolt or fill it with epoxy. Wheels still aren't protected, I would need to buy some ulocks or a cable. In your case, chain the frame to the hitch, use the cable to secure wheels and fork. Google "how to secure a bike". Someone wrote a nice article where they actually let some local bike thieves try breaking various security devices using the tools the thief usually carried around with him. Ulocks that lock both shanks and chains were the only things that worked with the run of the mill thief and the pro could get through those with a battery powered angle grinder.

    The thing about interstate parking lots is you never know who is passing through and they can be miles down the road in a couple of minutes after they steal your bike. Think commercial van with cable cutters in the back.

  16. #2566
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    Hard to believe you'd have a problem if you alternate the bikes and adjust side to side as recommended. Just takes a little practice - these are awesome racks.

    J.
    Agree it just takes a little time initially to figure out the best fit. Once you've done it, it's a quick process.


  17. #2567
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    I have an issue with my nylock nuts that hold the trays to the base coming loose. Anybody have a fix for this? I have to snug them up every few months. It's kind of annoying.... especially since they used SAE sizes instead of metric. SAE? what is this? a 60s Chevy Nova?

  18. #2568
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    So my problem is with the bolt that pushes the ball keeps coming loose when I drive off road.
    I'll bet the ball isn't coming lose as much as it's digging into the inside of your hitch receiver... making a nice dent.... which in turn make it grip harder.

    Don't worry. It isn't going to fall out.... ever.

  19. #2569
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    Well after having my bike ripped off the roof twice by cable lines I finally caved to peer pressure on this forum and bought a 1up.



    I'm sure I'm not the only person in the thread to do that but paranoia got the best of me and I didn't just want to rely on a velcro strap as my just in case safety device. I originally planned to put lock on the rack but the one I bought was too long and the one I had laying around was too short so here we go. Kind of like it this way better anyway. Not really worried about somebody steeling it and popping the carabiner on and off to check the bolt is easier than dealing with the lock.

  20. #2570
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    Why don't you put that chain from above the rack?

  21. #2571
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    Didn't cross my mind but I think it would rattle and scratch things up more that way. If you are asking because the ends of the chain look really close to the ground in the pic they aren't in real life. Just one of those camera things.

  22. #2572
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    You're right.

    As you've said, I thought that the chains were too close to the ground.

  23. #2573
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    Has anyone else noticed that the mounting holes, to add extensions to the 2"-double rack, are off centered.

    I wonder if that is by design or not.

  24. #2574
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    I'm thinking about getting the heavy-duty 2-bike rack with two add-ons. My question is my wife and I have three kids: right now I can throw the littlest one's bike in the back of the Jeep, but in the future I'm wondering if I could add an additional single rack to make it a 5-bike carrier. I know the manufacturer says it's for four bikes only, but it also rates the rack for very heavy bikes -- 75 lbs. each if I remember correctly. Has anyone turned this into a 5-bike platform or does anyone have an opinion on the advisability of that? Thanks.

  25. #2575
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    I have not used it as a 5 bike carrier but if I recall correctly, I believe someone posted that the company stated that it is the bolts by which the extra trays are attached to the 2 bike base that are the weak point, which wouldn't change between the standard and HD 2-bike bases.

  26. #2576
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    Quote Originally Posted by QQQ99999 View Post
    I have not used it as a 5 bike carrier but if I recall correctly, I believe someone posted that the company stated that it is the bolts by which the extra trays are attached to the 2 bike base that are the weak point, which wouldn't change between the standard and HD 2-bike bases.
    Ok, that makes sense. Thank you.

  27. #2577
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    Mine arrived today. Very impressed with the overall fit and finish. Used the fixed gear as a stand in. The Enduro is currently at the office..

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-17630725796_2c05e2953f_b.jpg

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-17469467440_af97e7ff92_c.jpg

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-17630719696_7a7bcb4890_c.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-17630725796_2c05e2953f_c.jpg  


  28. #2578
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    Loving my rack, but noted that some of the screws holding down the trays are loose. I grabbed my allen wrenches, but wtf did they use English fasteners for this rack? Every biker has METRIC wrenches in their tool kit...none of them required ENGLISH!!

    That was a really dumb move imho.

  29. #2579
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Loving my rack, but noted that some of the screws holding down the trays are loose. I grabbed my allen wrenches, but wtf did they use English fasteners for this rack? Every biker has METRIC wrenches in their tool kit...none of them required ENGLISH!!

    That was a really dumb move imho.
    Makes it more difficult for people to mess with it I guess.
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  30. #2580
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    I note that the 1up website now says:

    "NOTICE! 1up USA.com LLC is no longer replacing stolen racks due to the steep increase in theft. We recommend using a short cable lock or U-lock to secure your investment to your vehicle’s receiver. We apologize for the inconvenience this may cause."

    I've read through all ~2600 messages in this massive thread, but haven't heard about anyone having their rack stolen. I guess many of us have the rack locked to our hitches as a deterrent, but I was wondering if anyone here has heard of a rack being stolen?

  31. #2581
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    So for those of us who bought while that was advertised as a selling point, we have no recourse?

  32. #2582
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    So for those of us who bought while that was advertised as a selling point, we have no recourse?
    I am curious about this as well. That was a very large selling point when I purchased it. I wonder if we are grandfathered in.

  33. #2583
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonshonda View Post
    Loving my rack, but noted that some of the screws holding down the trays are loose. I grabbed my allen wrenches, but wtf did they use English fasteners for this rack? Every biker has METRIC wrenches in their tool kit...none of them required ENGLISH!!

    That was a really dumb move imho.
    USA!! USA!! USA!!! Ok, seriously though, we as a nation are RIDICULOUSLY behind the rest of the world when it comes to weights and measures. I work manufacturing, and ALL modern machinery is metric, even most equipment made in USA.. BUT not all consumer items are, and the English thread standard is extremely prevalent in older equipment and machines still, so it's far from dead.
    It's expensive to retool a shop to build in metric, cutters, drills, taps, dies, bolts, etc. Plus, you have to maybe strong-arm some engineers to adapt to it, as well as the machinists and toolmakers. Maybe in another 50 years.

  34. #2584
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    Very excited to finally have a "real" bike transport solution (no more cramming bike inside an old Prius), and a new car to put it on! Love this rack.

  35. #2585
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    Nice bike and car!
    I wouldn't **** you, you're my favorite turd.

  36. #2586
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    I own the 1.25 model and have purchased two add-on's. I purchased the 2 inch/ 2 bike model for my wife's car so we can carry four bikes. (I've seen four bikes on a 1.25 model, but didn't want to risk it since they no longer advertise that feature). Anyways, getting ready for my trip and finally unboxed the rack. I noticed the two bolts that allow you to mount the add on's are missing. Maybe they only put these on when you buy an add on at the same time? I can transfer them from my other rack, but I was wondering if this was an assembly mistake or the norm. Left them an email, but think they're closed on the weekends.

  37. #2587
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    Quote Originally Posted by kragu View Post
    So for those of us who bought while that was advertised as a selling point, we have no recourse?
    I'm not surprised they update their policy. These racks are ubiquitous in the bay area and with two wrenches coming with each rack, a thief will inevitably happen upon one of them. A new feature on the 2inch model compared to the one I purchased a few years ago is the extended shaft where you tighten the bolt down. It allows you to slide a pad lock to prevent access to the bolt.

  38. #2588
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    Quote Originally Posted by KickIt View Post
    Has anyone else noticed that the mounting holes, to add extensions to the 2"-double rack, are off centered.

    I wonder if that is by design or not.
    It's by design. You'll see once you attach an add on. The holes are slotted so you just slide the rack on rather than have to take the bolts out and re-assemble.

  39. #2589
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    Sorry if this has been covered, will a 29x3" tire fit in the rack or do I need the fat bike kit?
    I wouldn't **** you, you're my favorite turd.

  40. #2590
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    The whole we have a special tool so the rack cant be stolen was so incredibly stupid to begin with.

    They should have just enabled standard hitch locks to be used. Standard hole for a hitch pin with a lock at the end.

    They could still use their system to tighten it in the hitch to keep it from wobbling.

  41. #2591
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    Quote Originally Posted by askibum02 View Post
    Sorry if this has been covered, will a 29x3" tire fit in the rack or do I need the fat bike kit?
    Yes my 29 X 3 will fit in the standard rack.
    don't tell me, "Show Me " !

  42. #2592
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    i just got my 1up rack in black and it's beautiful!

    how tight does the locking ball need to be? do i need to get a breaker bar to get even more torque on it? i pretty much used all of my bodyweight on it and there seems to still be a lil play in the hitch.

  43. #2593
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    how tight does the locking ball need to be? do i need to get a breaker bar to get even more torque on it? i pretty much used all of my bodyweight on it and there seems to still be a lil play in the hitch.
    Just hand tight with the hex wrench should be plenty...

    Is the receiver out of square or dirty/rusty?
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  44. #2594
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    Just hand tight with the hex wrench should be plenty...

    Is the receiver out of square or dirty/rusty?
    i dont believe there are any issues with the receiver. it's the stock receiver with my 4runner. i never had any issues with my previous yakima rack. i didn't check inside the receiver, so i can't say for sure. i'll remove it and take a look this weekend.

  45. #2595
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    i dont believe there are any issues with the receiver. it's the stock receiver with my 4runner. i never had any issues with my previous yakima rack. i didn't check inside the receiver, so i can't say for sure. i'll remove it and take a look this weekend.
    While you're looking, there's a post a few pages back about a guy that had an issue with the ball mechanism... he's kinda whiny, but if you keep reading, 1up took care of him.

    The picture of the deformation is here:
    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.
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  46. #2596
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    Quote Originally Posted by useport80 View Post
    i just got my 1up rack in black and it's beautiful!

    how tight does the locking ball need to be? do i need to get a breaker bar to get even more torque on it? i pretty much used all of my bodyweight on it and there seems to still be a lil play in the hitch.
    The weight of the rack and bikes are borne by the receiver. You can completely load up your rack with it completely loose in the receiver and it will hold everything up. The purpose of the ball is to prevent the rack from sliding out of the receiver so you just need enough friction to prevent that from happening. I tighten mine tight enough so that I can be assured it is tight but can also be easily released.

    The only caveat to this is if there is debris in the receiver (i.e. clods of dirt, for example) that could be crushed up into the corner of the receiver by the ball and be dislodged over time and cause the rack to be loose in the receiver.

    J.

  47. #2597
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    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post
    While you're looking, there's a post a few pages back about a guy that had an issue with the ball mechanism... he's kinda whiny, but if you keep reading, 1up took care of him.

    The picture of the deformation is here:
    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.
    That was me whining, and it is because no matter what I do the hitch gets loose, even with the new one they just sent me. I just put some lightweight lock tight on the bolt and it still was loose by the end of a day where I only drove on the highway. . .sorry if it seems lame for someone to be bothered by a $500 rack coming loose EVERY time I use it.

    FYI it only comes loose when I use it on my 2" hitch, not on my 1 1/4".

    It was very nice of 1Up to replace the receiver, free of charge, but they didn't do so until I showed a picture of the bulge on the hitch bar. . .otherwise they accused me of driving too rough of roads, which I don't think I did, certainly not at any speed.
    195 lbs-6'4" Banshee Prime XL
    Ride Mammoth, Tahoe & Vegas

    PLEASE GIVE ME NEGATIVE REP!

  48. #2598
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    Quote Originally Posted by unrooted View Post
    That was me whining, and it is because no matter what I do the hitch gets loose, even with the new one they just sent me. I just put some lightweight lock tight on the bolt and it still was loose by the end of a day where I only drove on the highway. . .sorry if it seems lame for someone to be bothered by a $500 rack coming loose EVERY time I use it.

    FYI it only comes loose when I use it on my 2" hitch, not on my 1 1/4".

    It was very nice of 1Up to replace the receiver, free of charge, but they didn't do so until I showed a picture of the bulge on the hitch bar. . .otherwise they accused me of driving too rough of roads, which I don't think I did, certainly not at any speed.
    If this new rack also comes loose then the problem has to be with your receiver. To my knowledge, you're the only report I've ever heard of this happening. That also points to a problem with your receiver (the 2" one).

    Perhaps the proper characterization of this problem is that it is lame if your receiver causes bike racks to loosen every time you use it.

    J.

  49. #2599
    unrooted
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    My reciever is clean, and doesn't have thick paint, what else can I do? I was considering placing a thin layer of material between the hitch bar and the 1.25" to 2" adapter to take up a space, but other than that I don't know what else may work.

    The 2" receiver came new with my 2013 Tacoma.
    195 lbs-6'4" Banshee Prime XL
    Ride Mammoth, Tahoe & Vegas

    PLEASE GIVE ME NEGATIVE REP!

  50. #2600
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    If this new rack also comes loose then the problem has to be with your receiver. To my knowledge, you're the only report I've ever heard of this happening. That also points to a problem with your receiver (the 2" one).

    Perhaps the proper characterization of this problem is that it is lame if your receiver causes bike racks to loosen every time you use it.

    J.
    I agree... almost sounds like the receiver ID has an angle to it so the square gets bigger the farther outboard you get? Very strange.
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

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