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  1. #1026
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    So your rack moved in the hitch? Also, there is a load on the pivot at the tray but not in the folding direction of the arms. The load is from front to back as the weight of the bike shifts during acceleration/deceleration/wind trying to twist/rack the arms around the bolt running through the tray. They did switch from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt which helps the situation greatly (prevents failure of the thin aluminum in the hollow tray) but it does not account for the fatigue in the aluminum in the arm where it is drilled for the through bolt. The arms should be reinforced at the bottom where they are drilled for the through bolt since this is a stress area.
    The rack didn't move out of the hitch.

    I'm still not sure what you're getting at, however. This is a mechanical device so it can certainly fail. Maybe you should send your feedback to 1up? It's not like any one of us can change anything for you. Obviously, none of us have an issue because we 1) own the rack and 2) still are using it without major problems.

  2. #1027
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    The rack didn't move out of the hitch.

    I'm still not sure what you're getting at, however. This is a mechanical device so it can certainly fail. Maybe you should send your feedback to 1up? It's not like any one of us can change anything for you. Obviously, none of us have an issue because we 1) own the rack and 2) still are using it without major problems.
    We should also write concerned letter to all bike companies - because handlebars are holding on by purely friction and a couple of pinch bolts. They can rotate and you will fall at high speed.

  3. #1028
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    Lmao !! Asking questions like we trying to sell the rack to him , contact 1up and ask them why they haven't hired you to design and engineer their flaws ..

    This is a review thread for people that own the rack , not a tea time and critique session .. We all shared our thoughts and reviews as owners , so take it how you want .

  4. #1029
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    OK, two weeks in (6 trips with it) and I finally found a minor gripe about the 1UP Rack: sharp edges. I've managed to scrape and scratch myself pretty well a few times folding the rack up and removing it from the car. I think I'll take a small sanding block and some fine sandpaper to some of the edges of doom.
    Anyone else done this, what grit did you use?

    Otherwise: I love it.

  5. #1030
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    Some of the questions here seem really silly to me, for all you people worried about the 1 up falling out of the receiver why not just take a cable lock wrap it around the 1 up and thru the safty chain hole on your receiver and drive in peace without all these silly worries!
    “An adventure is misery and discomfort, relived in the safety of reminiscence.” Marco Polo

  6. #1031
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    That's exactly what I did! I was never worried about it falling out but hey better safe than sorry. I bought an inexpensive mini-Ulock for $15. Cheap insurance. Love the 1Up

  7. #1032
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    I plan to do the same when mine comes in as well. Hopefully, yesterday was the last ride using the trunk rack.

  8. #1033
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    I have some Cam buckle straps that I had made previously, they are about 12-16" long and I use one looped through the chain loops and around the rack. If the ball does ever fail, the rack will not go anywhere.


    Edit: Sorry, did not realize this was my first post

  9. #1034
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    Is there anyone that has this rack on a Toyota FJ Cruiser? I want to know if the rack will clear the spar tire. I will need the rack to extend 8" min to clear the tire. I really don't want to use a adapter, they move around too much.
    I drive around 50 miles a week on some pretty rough dirt and rock roads to get to where I ride (Gooseberry Mesa, Little Creek...) and I would like to know if this rack can take it.

  10. #1035
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    Is there anyone that has this rack on a Toyota FJ Cruiser? I want to know if the rack will clear the spar tire. I will need the rack to extend 8" min to clear the tire. I really don't want to use a adapter, they move around too much.
    I drive around 50 miles a week on some pretty rough dirt and rock roads to get to where I ride (Gooseberry Mesa, Little Creek...) and I would like to know if this rack can take it.
    1upusa Hitch Mount Bike Rack FJ Review - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

  11. #1036
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    That looks good, I just wounder if the rack will still fold up. It looks close.

  12. #1037
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    [QUOTE=donkeyboy;9381329]Anybody have any pics of the 2" / 2-bike rack off the vehicle and folded for storage? I've looked through this thread but did not notice any.QUOTE]

    Here are a few pics of the 2"- 2 bike rack folded up. In one pic you can see two boxes, the larger is from the 2 bike rack, the smaller has a 1 bike attachment in it.
    Other pics are with rack in back of my Pilot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-photo.jpg  


  13. #1038
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    My second 1Up. First one is still being used by a buddy. I do like the black. Was interested to see they've combined the 1 1/4 and 2-inch hitches with a bolt-on piece. Definitely prefer the older solid 2-inch hitch mount. In practice, though, it didn't move anymore than my older one.


    IMG_0195 by dbozman1173, on Flickr

  14. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    My second 1Up. First one is still being used by a buddy. I do like the black. Was interested to see they've combined the 1 1/4 and 2-inch hitches with a bolt-on piece. Definitely prefer the older solid 2-inch hitch mount. In practice, though, it didn't move anymore than my older one.
    I noticed you have a blue C-Guide on your bike. I just added one to mine but I m not sure how much it helps. How about yours, are you happy with it?

    Btw congrats on the rack, I d love to swap out my current 1up for one of those.

  15. #1040
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    The C-Guide is fine. I didn't have many options on the Mach 5.7, given no ISCG mounts and a pressfit BB.

  16. #1041
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    Anyone have current pictures of a new 2012 rack with a 29er on board? I just heard they lengthened the arms in the latest racks to better accommodate 29er bikes. I want to see how far the arms come up on the tires. I have been reading and researching a lot and I may spring for it. My biggest worry was only having the ball mechanism to hold the rack in the hitch but some of you are using a U-lock as a fail safe so that should work fine for me too. Also, for those of you with the black rack how has the anodizing held up? Thank you, to all those that replied with your mileage and reliability reports. Those statements go a long way in my eyes as verification of a products sturdiness and real world usefulness. I know my engineering questions seemed offensive but I critically analyze anything expensive I plan to purchase. I want my money to be well spent.

  17. #1042
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    Anyone have current pictures of a new 2012 rack with a 29er on board? I just heard they lengthened the arms in the latest racks to better accommodate 29er bikes. I want to see how far the arms come up on the tires. I have been reading and researching a lot and I may spring for it. My biggest worry was only having the ball mechanism to hold the rack in the hitch but some of you are using a U-lock as a fail safe so that should work fine for me too. Also, for those of you with the black rack how has the anodizing held up? Thank you, to all those that replied with your mileage and reliability reports. Those statements go a long way in my eyes as verification of a products sturdiness and real world usefulness. I know my engineering questions seemed offensive but I critically analyze anything expensive I plan to purchase. I want my money to be well spent.
    Dude, there is a picture of the exact thing you're looking for just a few posts up from here, post #1008.

    How far the arms come up on the tires is also a function of the bike's geometry, specifically the wheelbase.

    Obviously, I don't speak for everyone, but I didn't find your questions offensive, just kinda pointless As someone else mentioned, it's not like we can do anything about 1up's engineering shortcomings.

    Anyhow, I can't imagine that you wouldn't like it. If you don't, just take advantage of their offer to take it back. You don't even have to pay for return shipping.

  18. #1043
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    Ok you need to seriously READ some of this thread please , but anyways ill answer your 29er question . My friend has a Trek Rumblefish 29er in LARGE with 2.4 Schwalbe HDs front and back on it, and its PERFECT ...

    His tire profile is about as wide as my downhill tires .. The 29er fits and stays perfectly on the stand, mind you he also has his mounted via roof rack style on his bmw .

    You need to stop thinking about the ball .. You have to realize the way the rack was made with the weight countering the rack ... You literally need to have the rack perfectly straight to pull it out without any type of friction or force from the hitch .. The weight of the rack offsets its angle when its in the hitch so there is some force applied inside the hitch .. Hopefully you can kinda understand what im trying to say ...

  19. #1044
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    Jeep Wrangler JKU

    I mounted ours up today. As others have said it's aluminum sculpture.

    To be honest it's heavier than I expected, but it is solid.

    My tail lights are too obscured, so I'm going to have to find some kind of strap on lights...

    More pics here: 2011 Detonator Yellow Unlimited - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum

    But here's one with the family set-up with a 29er, 26er, 24er and 20er

    --------------

    [WTB} 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  20. #1045
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    Nice setup J Westy!!

    My 1up rack arrived today and I must say, it's impressive!! The black looks great on the back of my civic. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a hitch mount rack.

  21. #1046
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    Quote Originally Posted by allensta View Post
    Here are a few pics of the 2"- 2 bike rack folded up...
    Thanks for that. Just what I was looking for. Looks so much more compact than the other companies' offerings.

    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    ...if you don't need the smaller receiver size, get the larger rack. I would. Why not?
    Two reasons.
    1. The rack will often be used with one bike. It would be nice to just have to handle the single tray rack in these instances (the rack will be installed/uninstalled for each use)

    2. My wife will need to install/uninstall the rack as needed, and she's a little worried that the extra weight of the 2" / 2-bike version might be too much for her. Don't want an unwieldy bike rack to discourage her from getting out for a ride.

    The above reasons aside, I am leaning toward the 2" version. I think the 'offroad' sturdiness of it outweighs the cons. Any other opinions, especially on reason #2 above?

  22. #1047
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    It seems like your reasons are so specific, it would be hard for anyone else but yourself to answer. I don't take off the add-on, even though I don't usually ride with someone else. So, I would assume the difference in weight between a 1.25" rack and 2" (each with two trays) is negligible. Shoot, it might even be a draw since the 2" probably has a few less nuts and bolts holding it all together.

    I don't know you, but I know people, and I doubt that the rack will be taken on/off with each use. That's based only on my own experience

    I don't think that there is any legitimate difference in off-road "sturdiness" between the two.

  23. #1048
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    I emailed 1Up about what type of anodizing they use on their racks. The two most common types in the U.S. are Sulfuric Acid Anodizing Type 2 "Soft/Standard" and Type 3 "Hard Anodized/Hardcoat". I am hoping that their racks are Type 3 because the anodizing is much thicker and it will have increased wear resistance. Also, I asked them if they use any type of special sealer to protect the black dye from U.V. exposure. I have seen many black anodized parts turn purple or grey after several years in the sun.

    I will let you know what I find out.

    Update:
    I just found out they use Type 2 Anodizing "Soft/Standard" and they use a 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy to make the bicycle racks. They could not tell me if they use a special UV resistant sealer for the black dye, but they did mention that the black anodizing will fade. 6061-T6 is the same aluminum alloy they use to make rock climbing cams, so it is strong. Also, take note that Type 3 anodizing can cause aluminum alloy to have reduced fatigue resistance since the aluminum oxide layer is much thicker, much harder, and more brittle than Type 2.

    6061-T6 is also used for these items:
    6061 is commonly used for structural components, screw machine parts, frames, brackets, jigs, fixtures, base plates, machine parts, couplings, hydraulic valve bodies, valves and valves parts, fuse parts, gears and shafts, worm gears, pistons, rectifier parts, fasteners, hardware, truck and marine components, marine fittings and hardware, electrical fittings and connectors, hinge pins, magneto parts, brake pistons, hydraulic pistons, appliance fittings, camera lens mounts, bike frames, etc. 6061 is used for heavy duty structures requiring good strength-to-weight ratio with good corrosion resistance. 6061 is easily cold worked and formed in the annealed condition. Cutting, stamping, bending, spinning, deep drawing, drilling, tapping, etc. are all readily accomplished using standard methods

    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:
    6061 is a precipitation hardening aluminium alloy, containing magnesium and silicon as its major alloying elements. Originally called "Alloy 61S" it was developed in 1935.[1] It has good mechanical properties and exhibits good weldability. It is one of the most common alloys of aluminium for general purpose use. It is commonly available in pre-tempered grades such as 6061-O (solutionized) and tempered grades such as 6061-T6 (solutionized and artificially aged) and 6061-T651 (solutionized, stress-relieved stretched and artificially aged).

    Hardness Comparison Chart
    (Rockwell Surface Hardness Rating)

    Stainless Steel
    Low 50
    High 72
    Unanodized Aluminum
    Low 38
    High 44
    Type II Anodized Aluminum
    Low 48
    High 55
    Type III Anodized Aluminum
    Low 60
    High 70
    Last edited by Blk02; 06-12-2012 at 07:54 AM.

  24. #1049
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    Got mine today ;)

    Here's some pictures of my 1UP rack with a large 29er mounted.
    I got the 2" -2 bike rack.
    It is indeed a very heavy feeling rack, just as heavy as all of the top brands.
    It folds up like a transformer though making it much smaller and easy to handle.
    I agree with everyone else that it is much better in person, very well built and very strong/beefy feeling.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-001.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-003.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-004.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-005.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-006.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-007.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-008.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  25. #1050
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    Type 3 anodizing is for wear applications (e.g. fork stanchions) and actually has lower corrosion resistance than Type 2 since it has unsealed pores. So, Type 2 would be the "normal" choice for something like a bike rack.
    whatever...

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