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  1. #3401
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Kindorf for the win.
    What's the purpose of the flat 90's in the config. that you have ?
    The flat 90s on the side are to prevent the superstrut from expanding when I tighten the ball on the rack. This is needed because Superstrut is open on one side.

    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    Why didn't you simply buy the wall mount RachStash ($59) for the 1up from 1 up?

    https://www.1upusa.com/product-rackstash2.html
    Because I had all that stuff sitting around doing nothing for the past 4 years, so it was free. Figured time to use it for something and I only had to cut the one horizontal piece a little shorter. All I bought were 4 3.5" bolts to mount it to the wall, which cost about $2. It's so strong that I can hang from it. Plus I like building things.

  2. #3402
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    I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

  3. #3403
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    Quote Originally Posted by briantortilla View Post
    I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.
    If you don't need 1 1/4", I'd definitely go with one of the 2" models. 1 1/4" is fine (that's what I have), but since the width is small, the rotational force on the 1 1/4" bar is huge if you get any side-to-side movement of the car. That exaggerates any play in the interfaces between the hitch, adapter, and vehicle. I think 2" is recommended for off-road use, but they don't prohibit it with 1 1/4". 2" should be more stable and stronger.

    If you're installing a hitch on your car for the first time, go with 2" no matter what kind of rack you plan on getting. I had a cheap 1 1/4" hitch on a Honda Civic, and the hitch itself bent with three bikes on it, and it was not very stable at all. Flex is not a problem with the 1 1/4" rack with 2" (aluminum) adapter in a 2" hitch on my SUV, but there is a little flex. I imagine the 2" version would flex less since it fills up the hitch receiver better.

    If you want the ability to use just one bike, you could get the 1-tray 2" Super Duty rack. There is absolutely zero flex between the add-ons that I can see, so using two trays screwed together vs. two fixed trays on the heavy duty rack won't matter at all. The only difference seems to be the ability to carry one more bike with the two fixed trays (four bikes total).
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2in-...gle-bike-rack/
    Matt

  4. #3404
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    Thanks for the awesome reply. Ill probably end up going with the heavy duty 2 bike. I like the idea of just carrying one bike, but in reality, i don't think it it worth the extra cost for the super duty.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

  5. #3405
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    I had the same question and talked to 1Up by phone (on this topic and a couple others). They said the 1 1/4 would be fine and plenty strong, so that's what I bought, to go with a 2"Ecohitch. Unfortunately I can't offer any experience as I have not done the install yet. As you know there are pros and cons to each choice.

  6. #3406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    VERY Cool. I"ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while.

    Couple questions....

    Are the lights easily relocated as you add and remove trays?
    Are they running lights only, running and brakes, or the whole shebang with blinkers too?
    Source for the light bars?

    Sorry for the delay, just got back from a bike trip....

    The lights I used came with double sided tape to stick on, so not easily removable. But they are cheap, so if you used a trailer wire splitter, you could wire the extensions with their own.
    They do all, running, brake, and blinkers. The lights themselves actually have amber for blinkers, but I didn't wire those, since I used a pair of them, and a 4pin connector on my Jeep. I used the ground and running (tied to both lights), then left blinker to left brake light, and right blinker to right brake light. That way they work just like a trailer.

    I got lights from Amazon
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And also hitch wiring.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  7. #3407
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    Cool. Thanks.

    I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.

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