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  1. #3401
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Kindorf for the win.
    What's the purpose of the flat 90's in the config. that you have ?
    The flat 90s on the side are to prevent the superstrut from expanding when I tighten the ball on the rack. This is needed because Superstrut is open on one side.

    Quote Originally Posted by John View Post
    Why didn't you simply buy the wall mount RachStash ($59) for the 1up from 1 up?

    https://www.1upusa.com/product-rackstash2.html
    Because I had all that stuff sitting around doing nothing for the past 4 years, so it was free. Figured time to use it for something and I only had to cut the one horizontal piece a little shorter. All I bought were 4 3.5" bolts to mount it to the wall, which cost about $2. It's so strong that I can hang from it. Plus I like building things.

  2. #3402
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    I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

  3. #3403
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    Quote Originally Posted by briantortilla View Post
    I have somehow read through this entire thread and still can't decide between the 1.25" rack with an add on or the 2" heavy duty rack. I only plan on carrying two bikes max, but am a bit obsessed with stability on my car. Does anyone have any experience with both and can comment on the flex and stability between the two tongue sizes? Thanks.
    If you don't need 1 1/4", I'd definitely go with one of the 2" models. 1 1/4" is fine (that's what I have), but since the width is small, the rotational force on the 1 1/4" bar is huge if you get any side-to-side movement of the car. That exaggerates any play in the interfaces between the hitch, adapter, and vehicle. I think 2" is recommended for off-road use, but they don't prohibit it with 1 1/4". 2" should be more stable and stronger.

    If you're installing a hitch on your car for the first time, go with 2" no matter what kind of rack you plan on getting. I had a cheap 1 1/4" hitch on a Honda Civic, and the hitch itself bent with three bikes on it, and it was not very stable at all. Flex is not a problem with the 1 1/4" rack with 2" (aluminum) adapter in a 2" hitch on my SUV, but there is a little flex. I imagine the 2" version would flex less since it fills up the hitch receiver better.

    If you want the ability to use just one bike, you could get the 1-tray 2" Super Duty rack. There is absolutely zero flex between the add-ons that I can see, so using two trays screwed together vs. two fixed trays on the heavy duty rack won't matter at all. The only difference seems to be the ability to carry one more bike with the two fixed trays (four bikes total).
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2in-...gle-bike-rack/
    Matt

  4. #3404
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    Thanks for the awesome reply. Ill probably end up going with the heavy duty 2 bike. I like the idea of just carrying one bike, but in reality, i don't think it it worth the extra cost for the super duty.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

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    I had the same question and talked to 1Up by phone (on this topic and a couple others). They said the 1 1/4 would be fine and plenty strong, so that's what I bought, to go with a 2"Ecohitch. Unfortunately I can't offer any experience as I have not done the install yet. As you know there are pros and cons to each choice.

  6. #3406
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    VERY Cool. I"ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while.

    Couple questions....

    Are the lights easily relocated as you add and remove trays?
    Are they running lights only, running and brakes, or the whole shebang with blinkers too?
    Source for the light bars?

    Sorry for the delay, just got back from a bike trip....

    The lights I used came with double sided tape to stick on, so not easily removable. But they are cheap, so if you used a trailer wire splitter, you could wire the extensions with their own.
    They do all, running, brake, and blinkers. The lights themselves actually have amber for blinkers, but I didn't wire those, since I used a pair of them, and a 4pin connector on my Jeep. I used the ground and running (tied to both lights), then left blinker to left brake light, and right blinker to right brake light. That way they work just like a trailer.

    I got lights from Amazon
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N4...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    And also hitch wiring.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007V...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

  7. #3407
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    Cool. Thanks.

    I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.

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    Ready to buy the HD Double rack plus 2 add-ons to carry 4 bikes. However, I would like to confirm a couple things before I do:

    1) I drive a 2015 Toyota Sienna with a Curt 2" hitch which is only 11" or so off the ground. Does the rack fold down enough with the four bikes loaded to allow the rear door to open fully ? Note: I currently have a 10" riser on my hitch for my Thule hanging style rack to keep the bike wheels from hitting the ground when loaded without the top tube adapter and can keep using that if needed.

    2) I have standard Blackburn rear racks on the bikes that extend about 6" past the center-line of the rear axle. Are the arms able to lock on without hitting the racks?

  9. #3409
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    1. With four bikes loaded, I'd say it'll be difficult tilting the rack away from van to open back. If you did, you'd have to deadlift a couple hundred pounds back up. Easy enough to remove bikes quickly.

    2. My wife's bike with rack would hit the one up if not positioned carefully. You have to start with the rear tire and then finish securing on the front tire.

  10. #3410
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    Cool. Thanks.

    I've got a plan. I'm thinking a full width tail light strip with neodium magnets on the back of it that would attach to the pivot bolts for the arms so you could move it easily as you add or subtract trays. Gotta do some measuring.
    Keep us posted, like to see the results.

  11. #3411
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    Quote Originally Posted by eonicks View Post
    1. With four bikes loaded, I'd say it'll be difficult tilting the rack away from van to open back. If you did, you'd have to deadlift a couple hundred pounds back up. Easy enough to remove bikes quickly.

    2. My wife's bike with rack would hit the one up if not positioned carefully. You have to start with the rear tire and then finish securing on the front tire.
    HELP is on the way.
    I was in the process of ordering parts for a tilt handle mod on a silver 2" Super duty double. Had my design and parts all figured out, just needed to confirm that 1 Up would sell me the tilt handle release bar and the cross member above that. I didn't want to drill into my rack and void my warranty if my mod didn't work.

    I spoke to Rob and told him what I needed and he said it would be no problem providing the parts. "Oh, by the way, what do you have going on?" I told him I needed a tilt release handle at the back of the rack and that I was going to do a modification if I could get the release handle and cross member.

    Rob told me, if I could wait " a couple of weeks " they, 1 Up , will be releasing a tilt release handle mod. Rob didn't go into any design details or pricing but, " make sure we have your email on file and we'll notify you when available".

    So, hold off on the paracord and PVC mods and see what 1 Up comes up with.

  12. #3412
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    Hi folks,

    I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!

  13. #3413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev View Post
    Hi folks,

    I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!
    I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
    The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

    I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.
    Matt

  14. #3414
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    Quote Originally Posted by m85476585 View Post
    I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
    The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

    I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.
    You are the man. Thanks so much

  15. #3415
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    Quote Originally Posted by m85476585 View Post
    I don't have thread gauges, but I have calipers. The bolt from my 2011 rack is 12.35mm long from the shoulder to the end. The threads are 7.9mm wide, and the thread pitch is approx. 1.36mm. The head is 11.67mm wide. The hex head is approx. 6.4mm, and a 6mm hex wrench fits reasonably well. My guess is 5/16-18 x 1/2" socket head cap screw. https://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a578/=18rw0jl
    The bolt on the 2017 version of the rack looks similar, probably identical but I haven't measured.

    I highly recommend some blue loctite on this bolt to keep it from coming loose. If it comes loose the rack could get stuck in your hitch, and it's a pain to get out. It might also help to add a flat washer, but it's hard to find any with that small of a difference between ID and OD.
    Sounds about right, nothing is metric on these. You can double check by emailing or calling them on the phone. I think the toolkit should include the allen key, you could measure that to double check.

    Hadn't thought about the loctite, might be a good idea.

  16. #3416
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lev View Post
    Hi folks,

    I tried searching but couldn't find the answer. Can anyone tell me the size of the bolt that attaches the adapter to the rack for 1.25" --> 2" conversion? I lost the bolt and need to replace it. Thanks!
    You can e-mail 1up. They might even send you replacement for free if you ask.
    Last time I asked about bolt specs, they responded next day.

  17. #3417
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    I was wondering if anyone can tell me how well the black holds up? Does it scratch easy? How does it look after a couple years of use.
    I'm sorry if this topic has already been covered, I haven't had time to read through the entire thread.

    Thanks
    Mr_Mojorisen

  18. #3418
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    The tray is powdercoated but the rest of it is anodized. Anodized will not weather well in UV. It's it's garage kept and just put for strorage, that's different in *color change wear*. YMMV

  19. #3419
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    Looking at a 1Up used. Any key talking points to check out / confirm ?

  20. #3420
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    I'd really like to pick one of these up, but it seems like you need to purchase at least 2-3 additional add-ons to ensure that the hitch is secured to the vehicle and that the bike is secured to the hitch......

  21. #3421
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    Quote Originally Posted by VanillaEps View Post
    I'd really like to pick one of these up, but it seems like you need to purchase at least 2-3 additional add-ons to ensure that the hitch is secured to the vehicle and that the bike is secured to the hitch......
    No, you don't "need" to purchase anything but you can choose to do so to be on the safe side. My rack has never loosened up in tens of thousands of miles I've driven with it on my car.
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  22. #3422
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    Secured as in security - theft prevention - not fitment on the vehicle.

    I don't know why people feel the need to be so defensive. If you got one, great - enjoy it. My question or comment isn't meant to question your decision in buying and using one. It's just a question.

    I just ordered one and I'm sure I'll be happy with it. It's perfect for the ride straight to the trailhead and back. If I feel the need to stop somewhere quick - I can always use a cable lock for peace of mind.

  23. #3423
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    Oheckler or any 1Uppers- Any POV on why 1UP just PC's the tray and not the remainder of the black unit. Black just turns - black/purplish - think egg plantish - in UV>

  24. #3424
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    Anyone ever have trouble with their swing arms not closing smoothly?

    On my quick rack add on I can only close one of the arms 1 ratcheting notch at a time. It gets stuck, and I have to give it a moment before I can close it another notch. I think maybe the spring on the arm isn't doing it's job.

    I emailed 1Up about it, I'm sure they'll get me sorted, but has anyone else had this happen? If so, how did you get it fixed?

  25. #3425
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    Loosen the bolts just a bit on the main pivot of the arm.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  26. #3426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Loosen the bolts just a bit on the main pivot of the arm.

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Tried it, didn't make a difference. I'll see what 1Up suggests and report back. Thanks.

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    lube the *bottom* of the notched rails with chain lube (or something similar very light weight which won't attract dirt). clean them, lube again if needed.

    that's what it's sliding against and where the friction is occuring.

  28. #3428
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    My 1UP is one of the best things I've ever owned. But I've always thought that a $500 rack needs a better integrated locking system. (If you think that makes me a hater then I think you're fooling yourself). Back in the day I never worried about somebody stealing my rack, because they were so rare (therefore the machined hex wrench was also uncommon) and because of the replacement warranty, if stolen. I used a long shackle Master lock through the drilled holes in the wheel bars to lock my bike to the rack when traveling, but I never worried about anyone stealing the bikes with the rack. Not anymore. Now that I see a lot more 1UP's; and the replacement warranty is no longer valid, I've locked my 1UP to my truck with a small U-lock and I use a cable to lock my bikes to the rack. I read a statistic that half of cyclist have had a bike stolen. I don't know. Local hero Eric Marcotte had his bike stolen today (not off a 1UP rack, but during the middle of a ride!) so I guess we all have to be careful. I'm interested in seeing what 1UP's integrated locking solution is. I bet there's one on the way.


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  29. #3429
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    I recently read about a bike on 1Up rack that were stolen together. While there are several options for locking the rack to the hitch, thieves could dis-assemble part of the rack to steal a bike that is cabled or chained to just the rack. Probably the most secure is to U-lock the rack to the hitch and chain the bike to the U-lock.1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upwu-lock.jpg
    As in the photo, I'm going to try leaving my U-lock in place to safeguard the rack to the hitch, and then I'll cable or chain the bike to that when I need to.

  30. #3430
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    1up does sell locks that go through the wheel locks. If you buy a bunch at one time, they come with the same key. I ulock my rack and then use the pin locks on the bikes. Works really well.

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  31. #3431
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbmtb View Post
    lube the *bottom* of the notched rails with chain lube (or something similar very light weight which won't attract dirt). clean them, lube again if needed.

    that's what it's sliding against and where the friction is occuring.
    I don't think they are lubricated from the factory are they? While that might work I'd still be curious what is causing this in the first place. Interestingly this is happening on my add on, which is much newer and has seen a lot less use than the rack itself which still works perfectly.

  32. #3432
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    Instead of the Velcro straps I've been using these great cable ties from Home Depot as a backup if the bolt loosens up


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    Quote Originally Posted by a63vette View Post
    Instead of the Velcro straps I've been using these great cable ties from Home Depot as a backup if the bolt loosens up


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    I seriously hope that's a huge joke on me

    I've had mine for 14k on a Suby almost always and on a f150 for a few trips of 350 plus miles each way. I don't say it's not an issue as I believe others reports. But I have 2 of these guys and I've never had 1 even come a little loose. I check but I worry more about the bike on the rack then the hitch loosening.
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  34. #3434
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    Best purchase you have ever made!
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  35. #3435
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    Quote Originally Posted by formula4speed View Post
    I don't think they are lubricated from the factory are they? While that might work I'd still be curious what is causing this in the first place. Interestingly this is happening on my add on, which is much newer and has seen a lot less use than the rack itself which still works perfectly.
    I have no idea what the deal is, I've seen some come from the factory which work poorly and some which work great. May have something to do with the finish on the two parts being randomly off. But the solution I described will fix it, as that's the surface which it's riding on.

    A friend figured this out. Then he used silicon spray lube, which worked for about a month then turned into a sticky mess.

    A dry chain lube works great--it's extremely light. I'd guess rubbing a candle or other paraffin type thing works too. It lasts a very very long time.

  36. #3436
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtbikologist View Post
    I recently read about a bike on 1Up rack that were stolen together. While there are several options for locking the rack to the hitch, thieves could dis-assemble part of the rack to steal a bike that is cabled or chained to just the rack. Probably the most secure is to U-lock the rack to the hitch and chain the bike to the U-lock.Click image for larger version. 

Name:	1UpwU-lock.jpg 
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ID:	1151896
    As in the photo, I'm going to try leaving my U-lock in place to safeguard the rack to the hitch, and then I'll cable or chain the bike to that when I need to.
    I actually might do this as well. I have the hitch extender, and the locking bolt that goes though that, but this is a good second measure, and I have tons of U locks laying around
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  37. #3437
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    No matter what system you use to lock your bike to the rack, I still wouldn't feel confident leaving a bike unattended on a rack because there are so many expensive parts that can easily be removed very quickly. Maybe they won't get the wheels, but the seat, seat post, stem, bars, pedals, etc. can be stripped in seconds. I get that people want to go into a store or restaurant for a bit, but I would never let my bike/rack/vehicle out of my sight and be more than a few seconds away if I were to go into a place. Just the simply truth of living in today's society. Otherwise expect to lose some or all of the bike.

  38. #3438
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    Best plan is to not leave it out of site. Nowadays thieves with battery powered sawzall or grinder could just cut the aluminum arms like butter. Lock or not. I am paranoid.

  39. #3439
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    At some point, I did read every single post in this thread....

    Has there been a incident where the rack came loose ?

    While I wait for my 1Up to be shipped and delivered, I suppose there is a rhyme/reason on why there is not hitch pin hole ? Granted, I don't why why you just don't check the tightness of the built in mechanism every now and then.

    It's like anything in car ownership. Then again, I probably visually check my tires on the car about every ~other~ time I get in the car, so I suppose it's only as good as the operator@hand.

  40. #3440
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    Yes, posts on here about rack sliding. On recent trip I noticed mine having slid almost out entirely while loaded with two bikes! Never will have it not secured.

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    Hmmm...going to have to re-read the old threads.
    Is it because the nut/retaining ball has backed itself out - due to not occasionally checking it to see if it's torqued proper. Theoretically, it should have not back itself out if torqued down.

    And or, has there been reported issues of it backing out, after a single day trip in which it was installed/tighted the day prior/same day

  42. #3442
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    After five years and thousands of miles (including rutted washboard gravel road) I've never experienced my 1UP rack loosening in the hitch receiver. Never even a little. I would politely hypothesize that anyone who lost a rack "slipping" from the hitch receiver "possibly" forgot to tighten it, then drove off with it loose. I use a small U-lock to secure the rack to the truck, and I guess the snug fit serves as a backup in case the hitch ever came loose.... but I have it there for theft security rather than to prevent it from falling off the truck.


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    OT, and I'm not sure if a pic was ever posted re: the discussion of black coloring......
    While utubing for 1up reviews, I came across this vid, which is perfect example of what happens to the black..

    When I called 1Up prior to my order 2 weeks ago, I was advised the trays are powdercoated but the rest is anodized. The vid. should show what happens to anodizing and exposure to UV. Doesn't take much IMO.....

    Black turns to a darkish eggplant within a year. The vid linked, he must have his rack on 24/7....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMrUWCnQaIk&t=7s

  44. #3444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott In MD View Post
    After five years and thousands of miles (including rutted washboard gravel road) I've never experienced my 1UP rack loosening in the hitch receiver. Never even a little. I would politely hypothesize that anyone who lost a rack "slipping" from the hitch receiver "possibly" forgot to tighten it, then drove off with it loose. I use a small U-lock to secure the rack to the truck, and I guess the snug fit serves as a backup in case the hitch ever came loose.... but I have it there for theft security rather than to prevent it from falling off the truck.


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    In my experience, it's not as simple as, "you forgot to tighten it."

    I make sure mine is tight, but it's come loose. After several miles on dirt roads, bikes start swaying and when I pull over, the rack needs re-tightening. That'll happen more than once over, say, 10 miles of rough driving. I've got to pull over every so often when I'm driving off the beaten path and re-tighten the rack. It's a pain in the ass to stop every few miles. I mostly use a Kuat NV now.

    The 1Up hasn't ever come loose on me while driving on pavement though.
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  45. #3445
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    I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by sbermhb View Post
    I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?
    The 1.25" bar obviously isn't as strong, but also note the locking plate is smaller. The emphasis for the single quick rack was ease of use and light weight (for such a stout rack).
    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

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    Here's how I do it for both security and safety. The U-Lock is short enough where if the rack loosens up it can't slide out enough to drop out of the hitch. As you can see I have a piece of duct tape on the shaft to mark how far it insert without getting too close to the car when bike is on the rack and I wrapped a piece of old inner tube along the "U" to keep it from rattling and marking up the rack.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170204_131025.jpg  

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    Quote Originally Posted by Plim View Post
    In my experience, it's not as simple as, "you forgot to tighten it."

    I make sure mine is tight, but it's come loose. After several miles on dirt roads, bikes start swaying and when I pull over, the rack needs re-tightening. That'll happen more than once over, say, 10 miles of rough driving. I've got to pull over every so often when I'm driving off the beaten path and re-tighten the rack. It's a pain in the ass to stop every few miles. I mostly use a Kuat NV now.

    The 1Up hasn't ever come loose on me while driving on pavement though.
    Mine has come lose a few times on rough dirt roads (4WD roads). The first time the internal pin that pushes the ball became dented and caused all kinds of problems (the rack got stuck in my hitch, and it was a huge pain to get it off). They updated the design with a case-hardened pin, so it shouldn't do that again.

    On a recent trip my 1 1/4" rack in a 2" hitch came loose a few times with three bikes. The 1 1/4 - 2" adapter extrusion kept coming loose when the rack did, so I suspect not having Loctite on the screw was part of the problem. I had to tighten the rack several times in a few miles. I haven't pulled the pin out yet to see if it deformed, but I plan to at some point.

    I suspect the 2" version is better for off-road driving since there's no adapter to come loose, and since there is a larger contact area (not just the adapter). I plan to make a metal shim to take up most of the extra space in the hitch to see if that helps, so that it's mostly relying on large metal contact area to keep it from moving rather than just relying on the ball. There's a 1/16" gap between the rack and the hitch when it's installed on my SUV.

    I've never seen the screw back out, and I've never seen it loosen even a little on pavement. I usually tighten it once after a little driving after I first install it, then it doesn't need tightening again.
    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by sbermhb View Post
    I have a 1Up rack system that's a bit of a bastardization. I originally bought the 1.25" hitch with 2 extra trays, for a total of 3 trays. The 1.25" hitch with 3 bikes tended to wobble a bit too much on my Jeep. 1Up sold me a 2" hitch mount, to which I have mounted my 3 trays. I was wondering if it's safe/wise to run a 4th tray on this setup. I know the 1.25" hitch is only rated at 3 trays (although they apparently used to sell it with a 4 tray max). Is the 4th tray a problem because of the 1.25" hitch (I now have a 2" hitch) or is it a concern about too much weight/torque on the bolts that connect the trays together? Thoughts?
    They used to allow 4 trays on the 1 1/4" rack, but now they don't. They also don't allow 4 trays with the single bike 2" super duty base rack. They must have a reason, and the only difference I can see between what you have and the 2" heavy duty 2 tray rack is that there is no joint between tray 1 and tray 2 on the 2" 2-tray rack.

    I've never seen any movement at the joint between the trays with 3 bikes, but there is a large amount of force on those screws as you add more bikes.
    Matt

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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    OT, and I'm not sure if a pic was ever posted re: the discussion of black coloring......
    While utubing for 1up reviews, I came across this vid, which is perfect example of what happens to the black..

    When I called 1Up prior to my order 2 weeks ago, I was advised the trays are powdercoated but the rest is anodized. The vid. should show what happens to anodizing and exposure to UV. Doesn't take much IMO.....

    Black turns to a darkish eggplant within a year. The vid linked, he must have his rack on 24/7....

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iMrUWCnQaIk&t=7s
    Thanks for the link. Makes me glad I didn't get the black. Can't wait to try out my 1up tonight. Just got it yesterday.

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    Got my 1upper today as well. I'm not sure how many 1uppers are sold volume wise , but it's night and day, now that I see it, in terms of build quality. For the OCD/golden eyes, mine did have a rub or two on the silver anodized finish here and there...

    The screws on the lever arm *fatbike cones retrofit* were a bear to remove. Was using regular hex keys and then Allen handled driver. I was scared I was either going to shear off the head or strip the screw. It was not budging one bit. I actually thought it was either loctited or SS cold weld Switched up to a 1/4 ratchet and but and strangely enough, the screws came out with not much force

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