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  1. #3301
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    First, drilling the hitch shaft is very dangerous idea. It not just weakens the shaft, but high frequency vibration from drill may develop micro cracks that may cause complete shaft failure/breakage with time.
    Second, replacement of pin with expander ball can save a ton of money for you (it did for me) in case of small impact from behind your car. For example, during bumper2bumper parking or when you hit a high sidewalk curb. Hard connector like pin means broken rack, but with expander ball the rack shaft just slides deeper inside receiver, and the rack can be safely used again.
    Last edited by kosulin; 06-06-2017 at 11:31 AM.

  2. #3302
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    Thanks for the replies. It was just a different idea I hadn't seen yet that I wanted some feedback on. I wouldn't try it myself on my brand new, yet to even be delivered, rack.

    Now I'm annoyed that my hitch and rack will be here Thursday and the damn car (which is only 4 months old) is going into the shop tonight for a transmission issue.

  3. #3303
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    Do this instead of the tennis ball and it will be fine.

    Quote Originally Posted by whezy View Post
    Have it just at 4" insertion. The minimum advisable. Used it this past weekend on a 100km trip and actually had no issues. The 1" clearance was mitigated by putting a tennis ball on the bar end closest to the van window. (Advice from 1up support) pics are below. Minus tennis ball.
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    I humbly suggest a hitch extender of about 7 inches.

    https://www.etrailer.com/Hitch-Acces...ophy/HE06.html

  4. #3304
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    Did they lengthen the arms recently? I had a scary moment today. I had my road bike on and was driving down the road. I had apparently not made sure the black spring bar was well in the notch. I look back and see the tray go into almost-horizontal position in a second. It scared the heck out of me. Fortunately, the rack held the bike securely and there was no damage. I'd have been crying if that bike got wrecked. I just built it up with Chris King turquoise hubs and Dura Ace.

  5. #3305
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    I've read nearly this entire thread. I've learned a few things.

    One, 1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch. People are buying these expensive racks and then having to buy U locks to keep them on the vehicle (or trust the Velcro strap), plus a hitch bar lock or master lock to keep thieves from accessing the bolt, plus buying a lock to keep the bike locked to the rack itself. The wheel locks only ensure the wheel itself stays locked to the rack.

    Two, installing all of these locks defeats the purpose of having a rack that is able to be installed and removed so quickly.

    Three, they will probably not redesign the locking mechanism bc the racks are selling like hotcakes even with the few weaknesses/faults because it is solidly built and a good design for bike transport.

    I'm still considering buying a Quik Rack because my bike has a long wheelbase, just over 48" and most Kuat, Thule and Yakima tray racks are limited to a max of 48". I just think the $300/$350 for a single tray rack should come with enough features to secure it to the vehicle without spending an additional $50 on locks.

    I've had a Yakima Highlite 2 for five years and never had a single problem. It locks securely to the vehicle via a built-in mechanism and has an included cable lock (that could easily be cut). One provided key works for both locks. However, I want a tray rack so nothing touches the frame on my new bike.

    Is the best solution thus far to buy the 1Up hitch bar lock and maybe a thick padded chain and lock that can go through the bike and also secure the rack to the hitch? Then at least there are just two locks vs. three. It just really then isn't any quicker to install than most other racks.

  6. #3306
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Yup, The first claim was definitely fake. Many have called him out on it, myself included, and he never responded. I've done tests with mine and it never moved after driving hundreds of miles with 2 bikes on. What I do is once the rack is in the receiver and tightened up I wrap the exposed shaft with duct tape leaving no gap between the tape and the end of the receiver. This way if I see a gap between them then I know it has shifted. After thousands of miles in over years it hasn't moved an inch. So when I put the rack back on the hitch I use the tape as a guide to know what to stop inserting.
    I've had one of the original racks since 2010 and we've done probably done about 15,000 miles with it on - a lot of it at highway speeds ~80mph. It has never ever loosened. Once we hit a pavement defect (pavement starting to buckle on very hot day) and the car felt like it almost went airborne - and no problem with the rack. We do check it after about 20 miles of highway driving just to make sure there was no junk in the receiver that we were compressing instead of metal to metal contact. Once tight, it stays tight.

    The only purpose of the ball is to put pressure on the receiver and create friction to keep the rack from sliding out of the receiver. The ball is not weight bearing; it's the receiver that hold up the weight of the rack and the bikes. It's hard to understand, since the receivers are a standard, how the a rack would loosen or the rack is incompatible with a particular kind or brand of receiver. I can, however, understand that if a receiver were old and was corroded or if it had picked up a lot of junk in the receiver, why that particular receiver might have problems staying tight. In that case, the ball would not be making good solid metal to metal contact.

    J.

  7. #3307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    I've read nearly this entire thread. I've learned a few things.

    One, 1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch. People are buying these expensive racks and then having to buy U locks to keep them on the vehicle (or trust the Velcro strap), plus a hitch bar lock or master lock to keep thieves from accessing the bolt, plus buying a lock to keep the bike locked to the rack itself. The wheel locks only ensure the wheel itself stays locked to the rack.

    Two, installing all of these locks defeats the purpose of having a rack that is able to be installed and removed so quickly.

    Three, they will probably not redesign the locking mechanism bc the racks are selling like hotcakes even with the few weaknesses/faults because it is solidly built and a good design for bike transport.

    I'm still considering buying a Quik Rack because my bike has a long wheelbase, just over 48" and most Kuat, Thule and Yakima tray racks are limited to a max of 48". I just think the $300/$350 for a single tray rack should come with enough features to secure it to the vehicle without spending an additional $50 on locks.

    I've had a Yakima Highlite 2 for five years and never had a single problem. It locks securely to the vehicle via a built-in mechanism and has an included cable lock (that could easily be cut). One provided key works for both locks. However, I want a tray rack so nothing touches the frame on my new bike.

    Is the best solution thus far to buy the 1Up hitch bar lock and maybe a thick padded chain and lock that can go through the bike and also secure the rack to the hitch? Then at least there are just two locks vs. three. It just really then isn't any quicker to install than most other racks.
    the post seems like overreacting to me. I used my 1up for a couple years without any locks at all. the rack was not stolen. as a precaution, this year I bought the straight bolt lock that blocks access to the hex/ball bolt. this enough security for my tastes.

    the U locks are in part to address fears that somehow the rack will slip out when driving. i have driven thousands of
    miles with it using only the supplied velcro strap, it has never slipped out.

    in terms of bike security no rack system is worth anything if someone wants your bike. you can use locks to delay or send them to the next easier target. i never leave the bikes out of my eye sight when on the rack--that is the best security system.

    despite the alleged flaws in the 1Up I don't see any credible threads on thefts on rash of thefts of racks, or of slippage. but there was the post recently on slippage over off road terrain.

    in terms of time, using the straight bolt over hex/ball takes less than a minute. the deterrent like on the bike wheels takes less time. getting the frame out of the locked wheels is going to take time. but if you left it unattended while you went to the bar or the store, it's
    really on you for giving thieves too much time.,
    don't matter if it is 1Up yakima thule,etc.


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  8. #3308
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    My two cents here ... I've had a 1Up for about a year and wasn't crazy about some details at first. Over time, with familiarity, I'm finding that removal and replacement goes pretty quickly and really isn't hard. I use an old toe strap instead of the Velcro, but honestly it's never budged. I use the 1Up lock bolt that blocks the tightening bolt and I suspect that's enough theft deterrence (along with the security head on the tightening bolt) ... if someone's going to start cutting and grinding they can cut anything. For the bikes themselves I use the 1Up wheel locks for casual situations, and a padded chain through the bikes/rack and to the vehicle hitch for the occasional overnight or otherwise risky situations. But to me the real time saver with the 1Up is the ease of bike loading and unloading. I've hauled everything from road bikes to 3.0 tire Plus bikes, and it is fast and secure. I have enough experience with Thule, Hollywood and Yakima (not Kuat though) to be confident that if you don't have fenders, 1Up is the best for versatile and rugged bike attachment.

  9. #3309
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    Quote Originally Posted by objectuser View Post
    I placed an order for a 1Up 2 bike rack and two extensions.

    I really like the rack locking approach that @canker has taken and may try to do the same.

    I'd be interested in seeing what bike locking solutions people are using and how convenient they are. My current rack is a Thule T2 and while the locks aren't amazing, they're really convenient and do what I expect: prevent a casual theft and provide a bit of piece of mind, warranted or not.

    I've read through this thread and read about using a U-Lock with cables, a Master Lock Python, the 1Up bolts, etc. They don't (yet) seem terribly convenient to me (and I imagine even less so to my wife). The nice thing about the built-in solutions is the lock is already there, out of the way when you don't need them, articulates out easily and goes right back when you're done.

    Does anyone have a convenient and (sufficiently) effective bike locking solution? Would love to see pictures!
    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    the post seems like overreacting to me. I used my 1up for a couple years without any locks at all. the rack was not stolen. as a precaution, this year I bought the straight bolt lock that blocks access to the hex/ball bolt. this enough security for my tastes.

    the U locks are in part to address fears that somehow the rack will slip out when driving. i have driven thousands of
    miles with it using only the supplied velcro strap, it has never slipped out.

    in terms of bike security no rack system is worth anything if someone wants your bike. you can use locks to delay or send them to the next easier target. i never leave the bikes out of my eye sight when on the rack--that is the best security system.

    despite the alleged flaws in the 1Up I don't see any credible threads on thefts on rash of thefts of racks, or of slippage. but there was the post recently on slippage over off road terrain.

    in terms of time, using the straight bolt over hex/ball takes less than a minute. the deterrent like on the bike wheels takes less time. getting the frame out of the locked wheels is going to take time. but if you left it unattended while you went to the bar or the store, it's
    really on you for giving thieves too much time.,
    don't matter if it is 1Up yakima thule,etc.


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    Each rack has its pros and cons. I'm just saying that a built-in lock for the hitch tightening mechanism would be great. Many people throughout this thread (which has spanned several years) have had problems with the hitch bolt loosening and getting a little sliding of the rack out of the hitch. To prevent it, people are primarily using U locks. This simply isn't a problem with any other rack I've heard of bc they normally have a hitch pin drilled through. It would be nice if 1Up came up with a real solution for this. Not a deal breaker, but something to consider when buying a new and expensive rack.

  10. #3310
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    the post seems like overreacting to me. I used my 1up for a couple years without any locks at all. the rack was not stolen. as a precaution, this year I bought the straight bolt lock that blocks access to the hex/ball bolt. this enough security for my tastes.

    the U locks are in part to address fears that somehow the rack will slip out when driving. i have driven thousands of
    miles with it using only the supplied velcro strap, it has never slipped out.

    in terms of bike security no rack system is worth anything if someone wants your bike. you can use locks to delay or send them to the next easier target. i never leave the bikes out of my eye sight when on the rack--that is the best security system.

    despite the alleged flaws in the 1Up I don't see any credible threads on thefts on rash of thefts of racks, or of slippage. but there was the post recently on slippage over off road terrain.

    in terms of time, using the straight bolt over hex/ball takes less than a minute. the deterrent like on the bike wheels takes less time. getting the frame out of the locked wheels is going to take time. but if you left it unattended while you went to the bar or the store, it's
    really on you for giving thieves too much time.,
    don't matter if it is 1Up yakima thule,etc.


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    Honestly, and I didn't take offense, but about the only "overreacting" in this thread has been the people flaming anyone who criticizes the 1Up rack. The rack sounds great, however, there is definitely room for improvement. It shouldn't upset people to discuss the pros and cons. Regardless, I'll still probably get one due to the long wheelbase on my new bike.

  11. #3311
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    I just got mine and love it. I can see the purpose for not having it drilled for a hitch pin, that would limit the install depth. Having the ball feature lets you adjust how far you insert it into the hitch. I'm just using a U-lock I happened to already have and the thickest cable I could find that has looped ends to use with the U-lock. The only other thing I did was put some liquid electrical tape over the 2 bolts that stick out of the adjustable arms so they don't scratch anything on the off chance they make contact when putting the bike on or off.

  12. #3312
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    I've read nearly this entire thread. I've learned a few things.

    One, 1Up should redesign the rack to provide a built-in locking mechanism for the hitch. People are buying these expensive racks and then having to buy U locks to keep them on the vehicle (or trust the Velcro strap), plus a hitch bar lock or master lock to keep thieves from accessing the bolt, plus buying a lock to keep the bike locked to the rack itself. The wheel locks only ensure the wheel itself stays locked to the rack.

    I'm still considering buying a Quik Rack because my bike has a long wheelbase, just over 48" and most Kuat, Thule and Yakima tray racks are limited to a max of 48". I just think the $300/$350 for a single tray rack should come with enough features to secure it to the vehicle without spending an additional $50 on locks.
    Okay, you do not own a 1Up, and yet here you are based on READING this entire thread, proclaiming that 1UP SHOULD REDESIGN THE RACK.

    Those are your words and I was really diplomatic and shared my own experience having used and owned one for several years.

    Why SHOULD 1Up become like other products?

    Instead, you SHOULD buy the other product and state why you are buying it.

    Then 1Up, quaking in their boots because someone as Levelheaded as Steve on MTBR has gone with the competition, will stop everything and redesign their product.

    Let the market decide, if you want more insurance and can pay less for it, then just do it. But don't be calling other consumers "flamers" when you do not know what you are talking about.

    I also owned a Yakima roof rack for 10+ years before getting the 1UP. The Yakima was a fantastic product, despite the fact that they can be and are stolen, right off a damn car roof (this is SoCal after all), they apparently are the devil according to GW alarmists/conflators, and it's really easy to steal your bike off one even with that cable lock (this is SoCal after all, and anything that is locked down can still be stolen.). Despite all that it was a wonderful rack and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Yakima or get another one myself if I wanted a roof rack.

    Oh wait, "Hey Yakima, redesign your product because I am buying a Thule!"

    Yours truly,

    I don't know what I'm talking about








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  13. #3313
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    Has anyone actually tried to remove a bike from the rack while it is in the wheel locks? I know it doesn't secure your frame, but I think people think that it is super easy and I don't know if anyone has tested out how "easy" it really is. I also use this Syntace X-12 System Thru Axle > Components > Wheel Parts > Axles | Jenson USA so they would need a hex wrench as well. From what I understand is that most low level thieves want to be able to ride away on the bike.

    I use the u-lock for security and peace of mind that my rack isn't going to be falling out of the hitch. My rack has never loosened up, but killing two birds with one stone and it takes like 10 seconds to put on.

    If you give people unlimited time in an unsupervised area, then no lock(s) will be 100% proof. I just try to keep my bike from being the low hanging fruit.

  14. #3314
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Okay, you do not own a 1Up, and yet here you are based on READING this entire thread, proclaiming that 1UP SHOULD REDESIGN THE RACK.

    Those are your words and I was really diplomatic and shared my own experience having used and owned one for several years.

    Why SHOULD 1Up become like other products?

    Instead, you SHOULD buy the other product and state why you are buying it.

    Then 1Up, quaking in their boots because someone as Levelheaded as Steve on MTBR has gone with the competition, will stop everything and redesign their product.

    Let the market decide, if you want more insurance and can pay less for it, then just do it. But don't be calling other consumers "flamers" when you do not know what you are talking about.

    I also owned a Yakima roof rack for 10+ years before getting the 1UP. The Yakima was a fantastic product, despite the fact that they can be and are stolen, right off a damn car roof (this is SoCal after all), they apparently are the devil according to GW alarmists/conflators, and it's really easy to steal your bike off one even with that cable lock (this is SoCal after all, and anything that is locked down can still be stolen.). Despite all that it was a wonderful rack and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend Yakima or get another one myself if I wanted a roof rack.

    Oh wait, "Hey Yakima, redesign your product because I am buying a Thule!"

    Yours truly,

    I don't know what I'm talking about
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    I am basing my opinion on the complaints, made over a span of several years, throughout this thread entitled, "1Up Quik Rack Quick Review." This entire website was created to enable people to make informed decisions on mountain bikes and related products before buying a product. However, even if I had already bought the product and then posted my thoughts, would it matter? Read through the thread. People like you and a few others flame people who have a criticism of the rack.

    Based upon the repeated problems people are having with the rack loosening during usage, coupled with having to figure out their own solution for securing it to the vehicle, I believe the locking mechanism should be redesigned. 1Up has redesigned other features of their racks over the years, so they seem to want to improve their already popular product.

    I'm sorry my previous comments hurt your feelings.

  15. #3315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    I am basing my opinion on the complaints, made over a span of several years, throughout this thread entitled, "1Up Quik Rack Quick Review." This entire website was created to enable people to make informed decisions on mountain bikes and related products before buying a product. However, even if I had already bought the product and then posted my thoughts, would it matter? Read through the thread. People like you and a few others flame people who have a criticism of the rack.

    Based upon the repeated problems people are having with the rack loosening during usage, coupled with having to figure out their own solution for securing it to the vehicle, I believe the locking mechanism should be redesigned. 1Up has redesigned other features of their racks over the years, so they seem to want to improve their already popular product.

    I'm sorry my previous comments hurt your feelings.
    you have not hurt my feelings.

    I haven't flamed anyone and that's my main point of contention with your ********.

    you cannot seem to take a counterpoint or criticism of your baseless post.

    if you had said you prefer belts and suspenders and another product provides it for you, I would not chime in at all. You are basing your decision on the feedback from others and your personal preferences.

    But your proclamation that 1Up should redesign its product is baseless and stupid.






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  16. #3316
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    Has anyone actually tried to remove a bike from the rack while it is in the wheel locks? I know it doesn't secure your frame, but I think people think that it is super easy and I don't know if anyone has tested out how "easy" it really is. I also use this Syntace X-12 System Thru Axle > Components > Wheel Parts > Axles | Jenson USA so they would need a hex wrench as well. From what I understand is that most low level thieves want to be able to ride away on the bike.
    That's a good idea with the thru axles. Every extra deterrents helps.

  17. #3317
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    you have not hurt my feelings.

    I haven't flamed anyone and that's my main point of contention with your ********.

    you cannot seem to take a counterpoint or criticism of your baseless post.

    if you had said you prefer belts and suspenders and another product provides it for you, I would not chime in at all. You are basing your decision on the feedback from others and your personal preferences.

    But your proclamation that 1Up should redesign its product is baseless and stupid.
    I specifically stated my opinion was based upon the complaints made, over a number of years, throughout this thread.

    I'm sorry my comments have upset you so much that you aren't able to clearly comprehend what you are reading.

    Edit: I had to add this quote from you. It is cracking me up.

    "You are basing your decision on the feedback from others and your personal preferences. But your proclamation that 1Up should redesign its product is baseless and stupid."

    You state exactly what I'm basing my opinion on and then your very next sentence states that my opinion is baseless (and stupid). Lol. You have made my day. You have to find joy in the little things. The irony too with the "stupid" comment, right? Lol

  18. #3318
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    I wanted to add that on my 2017 Forester I am able to fold the rack up. I seem to remember some posts saying they couldn't do that on their Foresters. I have 3.5" from front of receiver to the edge of the ball, which gives me about an inch clearance between the folded rack and the bumper. There does not seem to be any play that would allow them to make contact.

  19. #3319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    I specifically stated my opinion was based upon the complaints made, over a number of years, throughout this thread.

    I'm sorry my comments have upset so much that you aren't able to clearly comprehend what you are reading.
    i understand you perfectly. instead of you claiming me and others are "flaming" you could have asked about our own actual experiences with the product. don't act like you are a victim here.




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  20. #3320
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    i understand you perfectly. instead of you claiming me and others are "flaming" you could have asked about our own actual experiences with the product. don't act like you are a victim here.
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    I don't need to ask about actual experiences as hundreds of people have already posted them. Do you understand how Internet forums work?

  21. #3321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    Do you understand how Internet forums work?
    Yes, people read things and make stuff up then try to summarize the thread in a tone which represents absolute truth, but isn't based on actual experience.

    Sorry. I have one of these, and am one of the people where it loosens too much. I still think anyone suggesting a redesign without having one is ignorant. There's just something damaged in either my receiver or the rack, the rack has taken a lot of abuse. They already addressed the 'easy to remove' issue with a small change a year or two ago. There is no simpler 'safety+security' redesign than 'throw on a u-lock'. It'll still take less time (expander + u-lock) than a through-pin, and yes I've had a rack with that style attachment too.

  22. #3322
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbmtb View Post
    Yes, people read things and make stuff up then try to summarize the thread in a tone which represents absolute truth, but isn't based on actual experience.

    Sorry. I have one of these, and am one of the people where it loosens too much. I still think anyone suggesting a redesign without having one is ignorant. There's just something damaged in either my receiver or the rack, the rack has taken a lot of abuse. They already addressed the 'easy to remove' issue with a small change a year or two ago. There is no simpler 'safety+security' redesign than 'throw on a u-lock'. It'll still take less time (expander + u-lock) than a through-pin, and yes I've had a rack with that style attachment too.
    What an ignorant comment. Do you really think it's impossible to tell how a simple mechanical device works without owning it? You can see how it works by watching the multitude of videos online and reading hundreds of posts that explain it in detail. There are several posts that explain how to take the mechanism apart and reassemble. There is also a post that discusses how and where to drill a hole for a locking pin, though it isn't advised.

    There is something simpler than throwing a U lock on it. It's called a built-in locking mechanism. They don't have to add a through-pin either. They can stick with the Velcro strap.

    I made a simple suggestion for a possible improvement and some people can't deal with it. There may be a really good reason why 1UP doesn't make a change to a different locking mechanism design, but they haven't spoken up about it in this thread either way yet. Btw, they've made improvements over the years, so it seems they are open to suggestions and can admit their product can be improved, unlike many who own the rack.

  23. #3323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    I don't need to ask about actual experiences as hundreds of people have already posted them. Do you understand how Internet forums work?
    I do not understand. But since du bist ein expert, you can please proceed avoiding and calling people flamers who have a different experience than your non-experience... so which rack company are you working for or affiliated with?

    Yours truly,

    Trolls bein' Trolls


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  24. #3324
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    Honestly, the u-lock may be faster than the velcro strap.

    Has anyone actually tried to take a bike out with the wheel locks?

    Levelheadsteve......a lot of people are totally cool with a cable/chain lock and a U-lock. I prefer the wheel locks as well. It appears that you are the only person that has a problem with it and you don't own it.

    Either buy it or don't buy it, I really don't care. You aren't going to convince the people here that spent a lot of money one one of the nicest racks money can buy that they bought the wrong rack based on your internet sleuthing.

  25. #3325
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    U-lock works for me to secure the rack to the hitch. Although my rack has never slipped out the lock provides a piece of mind for both safety and security. It takes 5 seconds to put on and take off. If you look at the picture I posted you'll see what I mean. If I wanted to lock my bike I'll just use a cable lock and loop the ends to the said u-lock.
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  26. #3326
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    I do not understand. But since du bist ein expert, you can please proceed avoiding and calling people flamers who have a different experience than your non-experience... so which rack company are you working for or affiliated with?

    Yours truly,

    Trolls bein' Trolls
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    Wow. Your feelings are really hurt from my earlier comments. Here is my exact quote, "Honestly, and I didn't take offense, but about the only "overreacting" in this thread has been the people flaming anyone who criticizes the 1Up rack." I didn't call you a flamer, but you are extremely sensitive to it judging by the three times you've referred to being a "flamer" in your subsequent posts. Your posts are proving my point. I have a criticism about the 1UP rack and you can't handle it. You call me a troll even though I've been on MTBR since 2010 and have 130+ posts.

    I like how anyone who criticizes the 1UP rack is a troll in your mind. So much so that you believe someone bought a 1UP rack, damaged it, set it on the side of the highway with bikes on it, took pictures and posted it on the forum here to discredit the rack. Lol. Time to get a thicker gauge of tinfoil for your hat.

  27. #3327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    You can see how it works by watching the multitude of videos online and reading hundreds of posts that explain it in detail. There are several posts that explain how to take the mechanism apart and reassemble. There is also a post that discusses how and where to drill a hole for a locking pin, though it isn't advised.
    Could you provide a link to the post or video about drilling the rack for a pin? I asked about that just a few days ago and no one said they had tried or even seen it done. Don't think I'd ever do it myself, but I'm still interested to see what may have been done.

  28. #3328
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDRex View Post
    Could you provide a link to the post or video about drilling the rack for a pin? I asked about that just a few days ago and no one said they had tried or even seen it done. Don't think I'd ever do it myself, but I'm still interested to see what may have been done.
    I would like to see the video also. In order for it work the hole will have to be right in the middle of the square shaft so it will line up with the holes in the receiver but the mechanism to secure the ball runs right through the middle of the shaft so drilling a hole will definitely render it useless or maybe that's the intent.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    I could see it coming loose from user error, e.g., not tight enough to begin with, not checking it periodically, or not using the strap.
    Yes. I agree. I would also consider a receiver that is in poor condition - i.e. significant debris in the receiver or corroded - to be user error. The strap is to protect against user error and is a redundantcy.

    When I drive to visit family in Blacksburg, about 5 hours from me with a stop, I will check it when I stop. Sometimes I get a very tiny amount of movement when I tighten but most of the time nothing.
    Same for me. I bet 1 out of 20 times (or less) I can tighten more on the double check.

    J.

  30. #3330
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    Holy cow. So many touchy people. LevelHeadedSteve's comments weren't that dramatic, but a few people lost their sh1t over the word 'redesign.' Does anyone seriously think that having a lock incorporated into the hitch, and/or a way to lock the wheel arms into place would be a step backwards? I've had my 1-Up for 5 years. In that time they've introduced quite a few running changes, so they are clearly willing to add or change features.

    IMO the 1-Up is still the best tray rack on the market and I recommend it regularly. I've probably helped sell a dozen of them here. I bought mine for the adaptability, small folded size, quick on/off, and lack of plastic. What I'm completely sold on is the way that you can adjust the bikes' positions and quickly and easily load two bikes with no contact. My girlfriend's Kuat sucks for that- the front trays don't move so there's very little ability to move the bikes relative to each other. Depending on the cockpit setup, you can end up with saddles or seatposts rubbing bars unless you loosen the stem and turn the bars.

    I rarely lock my rack to the vehicle; usually I only do that on a trip to a larger city or riding destination. If I leave my bike/rack unattended I loop a big motorcycle chain through the frame and lock it with a padlock. Neither of those is a deal breaker or even a major annoyance, but if I were imagining improvements, I'd love a quick way to lock the arms in position for casual use around my small town.

    The hitch design isn't the greatest, though. It's nice that I can position the stinger precisely where I want it, but I have issues with mine loosening, and yes, I have checked all the issues mentioned above. Reports of thousands of highway miles without any detectable loosening don't mean anything to me because I've had those same results myself. But even 10 miles of driving an indifferently maintained dirt road, with big ruts, water bars, humps, etc., consistently loosens it. Not a washboarded gravel road, but the kind of road that makes 20-25 mph feel wild. That always leaves me needing to put a quarter to half turn on the wrench.

  31. #3331
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Holy cow.
    Seriously. For what it's worth, I kind of agree with Steve and his level head. May be time for them to consider an update.

    It never ceases to amaze me both the lengths people will go to to modify their 1UP racks or the ferocity with which they will defend them. Like any other product there are pros and cons... just don't mention the cons around here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by MDRex View Post
    Could you provide a link to the post or video about drilling the rack for a pin? I asked about that just a few days ago and no one said they had tried or even seen it done. Don't think I'd ever do it myself, but I'm still interested to see what may have been done.
    The post is a discussion within this (lengthy) thread about drilling it. There isn't a video about drilling it. When I mentioned video, I was referring to the YouTube videos from 1up and from rack owners about the rack overall. If I run across the post discussing drilling, I'll link it, but if I had to guess, it's about halfway through (pages in the teens maybe).

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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    Honestly, the u-lock may be faster than the velcro strap.

    Has anyone actually tried to take a bike out with the wheel locks?

    Levelheadsteve......a lot of people are totally cool with a cable/chain lock and a U-lock. I prefer the wheel locks as well. It appears that you are the only person that has a problem with it and you don't own it.

    Either buy it or don't buy it, I really don't care. You aren't going to convince the people here that spent a lot of money one one of the nicest racks money can buy that they bought the wrong rack based on your internet sleuthing.
    I'm not trying to convince anyone of anything. I just wish the design had a built-in lock, just like many other people have discussed throughout this thread. I'm not "the only person that has a problem with it."

    What is with some of the people in this 1UP rack thread? I just bought a Pivot Switchblade. If someone said, "It would be nice if more hub manufacturers made a super boost 157 hub or the hub spacing could be a problem down the road" or offered a suggested improvement, I wouldn't call them a troll or accuse of them of trying to convince me to buy a different bike. I also wouldn't tell them they couldn't possibly understand or offer a criticism or improvement without owning it.

    I've already mentioned a few times that I'll probably still buy the 1UP due to the long wheelbase of my bike. I'm simply doing a lot of research and trying to discuss the pros and cons of different racks and designs. However, according to some I'm simply a troll trying to make you all feel bad about your rack purchases. Really? It's weird what the anonymity of the internet does to some people. If we were all having a conversation around a table, discussing this rack, I doubt anyone would be accusing me of being a troll or being paid by another rack manufacturer or even saying something like, "Either buy it or don't, I really don't care." We would just discuss it. Apparently that can't happen in this thread.

  34. #3334
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    Either buy it or don't, I really don't care. Seriously.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 7daysaweek View Post
    Seriously. For what it's worth, I kind of agree with Steve and his level head. May be time for them to consider an update.

    It never ceases to amaze me both the lengths people will go to to modify their 1UP racks or the ferocity with which they will defend them. Like any other product there are pros and cons... just don't mention the cons around here.
    Thanks man. Do you own one? Maybe I could pm you with a few questions to avoid upsetting everyone else.

  36. #3336
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    While a built-in lock for the bikes is a nice idea, I think the cables that I've seen on other racks really don't provide much security. I've even read reports of people pulling the cables out of the racks. I think the U-lock to secure the rack itself is better than the security you'd get from a locking hitch pin, which can be broken fairly easily. But of course there are a number of different solutions. I found that for me the pros of the 1UP far outweigh the cons.

    My plan is to never leave the bike unattended on the rack, which will be hard on our trip to the beach when we stop for beer and lunch at the Answer Brewpub (favorite place on earth BTW).

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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Holy cow. So many touchy people. LevelHeadedSteve's comments weren't that dramatic, but a few people lost their sh1t over the word 'redesign.' Does anyone seriously think that having a lock incorporated into the hitch, and/or a way to lock the wheel arms into place would be a step backwards? I've had my 1-Up for 5 years. In that time they've introduced quite a few running changes, so they are clearly willing to add or change features.

    IMO the 1-Up is still the best tray rack on the market and I recommend it regularly. I've probably helped sell a dozen of them here. I bought mine for the adaptability, small folded size, quick on/off, and lack of plastic. What I'm completely sold on is the way that you can adjust the bikes' positions and quickly and easily load two bikes with no contact. My girlfriend's Kuat sucks for that- the front trays don't move so there's very little ability to move the bikes relative to each other. Depending on the cockpit setup, you can end up with saddles or seatposts rubbing bars unless you loosen the stem and turn the bars.

    I rarely lock my rack to the vehicle; usually I only do that on a trip to a larger city or riding destination. If I leave my bike/rack unattended I loop a big motorcycle chain through the frame and lock it with a padlock. Neither of those is a deal breaker or even a major annoyance, but if I were imagining improvements, I'd love a quick way to lock the arms in position for casual use around my small town.

    The hitch design isn't the greatest, though. It's nice that I can position the stinger precisely where I want it, but I have issues with mine loosening, and yes, I have checked all the issues mentioned above. Reports of thousands of highway miles without any detectable loosening don't mean anything to me because I've had those same results myself. But even 10 miles of driving an indifferently maintained dirt road, with big ruts, water bars, humps, etc., consistently loosens it. Not a washboarded gravel road, but the kind of road that makes 20-25 mph feel wild. That always leaves me needing to put a quarter to half turn on the wrench.
    Thanks for all the great feedback, especially the comment on the Kuat as that is one I am also considering. Looks like a 1UP is probably the way to go, despite the need for a U lock to ensure it from sliding out. The Saris Superclamp looks nice too, but you have to pay an extra $99 for a long wheelbase tray if over 48".

  38. #3338
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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    Thanks man. Do you own one? Maybe I could pm you with a few questions to avoid upsetting everyone else.
    I don't. Don't tell anyone but **whispers** I bought a Kuat.

    Since I see you're also considering a Kuat I can tell you what my criteria were. I also looked into 1UP.

    The decision for me came down to how often I'd be removing the rack and how often my bike would be on it without me around.

    I liked the weight of the 1UP since I thought I'd remove the rack regularly to keep it from being out in the elements a lot. In reality for me that hasn't been an issue. The Kuat takes up a lot more space than a single 1UP when removed. Doesn't seem to be much more than the double 1UP and I doubt you'd take it apart much for storage so from a space perspective they're about the same. My Kuat is almost always on the car but spends time at home in the garage and hasn't fared too badly in the elements over the last 3 or 4 years.

    Then there's the bike interference issue. This comes up occasionally with two bikes on my rack. Not all the time but certain bike combos have had issues. One of mine has a dropped so it's easy to get it out of the way but I have had instances where I've had to pull out a hex wrench and lower a seatpost to make room. Not a huge deal but it is kind of annoying so I can see where the adjustability of the 1UP would be nice.

    The 1UP only touches the tires on the bike which is nice. Oddly I have seen the effects of this more on the rack than the bike. My bikes show no evidence of any contact with the rack but the rubber on the top of the wheel holder arm on my Kuat has been warn away by contact with the brake hose mount on my fork. It was alarming at first but hasn't been an issue so doesn't bother me but points to 1UP here for holding by only the tires.

    The biggest issue for me was the locking features. I'm a paranoid person and I'd always be concerned about a rack without a hitch pin so I really like that the Kuat comes with a locking hitchpin to keep it on the car and hopefully deter lazy, would-be thieves. The built in cable lock is also great. If I have to run an errand on the way back from a ride I'm set. Yes you can do it with a cable lock in the car and a 1UP but it's just so much easier not to have to think about it. Stopping by the grocery store or chinese place on the way home from a ride and being able to lock the bike so it would delay a theft is nice. No I wouldn't leave it out overnight somewhere locked to the rack but for short stops where I'm just around the corner it makes me feel reasonably comfortable about leaving it.

    Those were my thoughts when deciding on a rack and I've been happy with my decision. I've done nothing to it but install it and use it since buying and it does the job.

    If you're going to be taking it off and on a lot and a lock isn't a deal breaker there are definitely benefits to the 1UP. And some folks think it's the nicest looking option as well.

  39. #3339
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7daysaweek View Post
    I don't. Don't tell anyone but **whispers** I bought a Kuat.

    Since I see you're also considering a Kuat I can tell you what my criteria were. I also looked into 1UP.

    The decision for me came down to how often I'd be removing the rack and how often my bike would be on it without me around.
    Thanks for all the information. For the first year, I'll be removing the rack after every ride. However, next year, once we get a new car for my wife, I will be able to leave it on most of the time. It'd be nice to have a really light rack for the first year, but not a deal breaker.

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    kuats are nice, include a lock and some of them have tool stands. but the 1up still has a number of advantages:
    * much much easier to put on a variety of bike shapes. and even to just put on a single bike.
    * the rise in the back means you're less likely to hit a curb in a dip.
    * more solid construction. (yeah, it's lighter but also simpler).

    if the tools and locks are most important to you, go for another option.

    yes, you could imagine some 1up redesigns. e.g. a locking knob instead of a 'security' bolt + place to put a padlock, or a locking mechanism on the arm release instead of a hole to put a padlock. and i'm actually surprised no one has made a similar type thing with a 'professional' (vs garage) aesthetic. but it just works.

  41. #3341
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    I looked at Kuat racks also mainly because friends of mine have (had) one and it looked great. They are nice but with my specific preferences and taste I went with the 1UP USA... obviously. Since 99.9% of the time I'm using the rack I'll only have 1 bike on it so the 1UP rack makes sense. This will allow me to fold it and put it in the trunk when I'm out riding and the ease of doing that is a plus. For those other times when I need to carry more than 1 bike I did buy an add-on attachment which hangs in my garage collecting dust most of the time. I also appreciate the ease and speed the bike goes on and comes off the bike. I can literally put a bike on and then take it off again in less than 10 seconds. One time my buddy (the one with the Kuat) and I both started putting our bikes on our racks at the same time after a ride and by the time I got my bike loaded he was still fussing with wheel straps. He noticed the huge time difference also and after he got his bike secured he walked over, took a closer look and started asking me about the rack. He asked me how the bike loads and unloads and I showed him. His only words were "That's it? Just like that?" Sure the Kuat may look flashy and fancy and sort of "in your face" given its size when folded up but there's also beauty in simplicity.
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    Quote Originally Posted by mbmtb View Post
    yes, you could imagine some 1up redesigns. e.g. a locking knob instead of a 'security' bolt + place to put a padlock.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZQaPvjk2v6I
    That would be a Yakima design. The rest of their rack isn't as nice as 1up but the receiver interface looks pretty sweet.

  43. #3343
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    Good job!

    Totally agree with you, but about the racks?

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    Quote Originally Posted by alanbruce View Post
    Totally agree with you, but about the racks?
    What racks? Tell me more about wine prices, wine auctions, wine auction houses, and auction results from selling wine. Please, I want to know.

  45. #3345
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    He noticed the huge time difference
    It's a ratcheting arm and one wheel strap...

    Aside from hanging racks vs platform racks I don't really see how time to load is ever a consideration for choosing between racks but maybe it's harder for some folks.

  46. #3346
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    Quote Originally Posted by 7daysaweek View Post
    It's a ratcheting arm and one wheel strap...

    Aside from hanging racks vs platform racks I don't really see how time to load is ever a consideration for choosing between racks but maybe it's harder for some folks.
    To each their own. Different people have different reasons for buying what they buy. Who's to say which is best for someone else? For me it's the 1UP rack based on my own personal preferences and criteria. For my buddy, it was the Kuat. He was curious and I showed him how it works. I didn't try to talk him into switching to a 1UP rack nor was I criticizing his Kuat. He just saw the simplicity of the 1UP and wanted to know more about it. He did get rid of the Kuat. I think it was because he said it didn't have a conversion kit for his fat bike.
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    Any comments on the durability of the black finish vs. the silver? I like the black finish, but if it's just going to be scratched to hell in a few months, I'll get the silver. Thanks.

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    I have the black finish. I haven't had any problems with scratches, but mine has faded. It stays on my car all the time, and the high desert sun here in western Colorado is pretty intense. It has changed to a bronze-y color. I think it still looks okay, but it's enough of a change that it might bother some people. I'm still a big fan of the rack and wouldn't buy anything else--even with the bronzing issue, I still prefer the color over the silver model.

    There are some pics in my photo gallery showing the bronzing.

  49. #3349
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    Quote Originally Posted by Geralt View Post
    I have the black finish. I haven't had any problems with scratches, but mine has faded. It stays on my car all the time, and the high desert sun here in western Colorado is pretty intense. It has changed to a bronze-y color. I think it still looks okay, but it's enough of a change that it might bother some people. I'm still a big fan of the rack and wouldn't buy anything else--even with the bronzing issue, I still prefer the color over the silver model.

    There are some pics in my photo gallery showing the bronzing.
    Cool, thanks. Interesting, but doesn't look bad.

  50. #3350
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I think it was because he said it didn't have a conversion kit for his fat bike.
    That makes sense. Fat bikes are very inconvenient on the Kuat I have. Had to let most of the air out of the tires and use a big velcro strap for the rear wheel. The 1UP definitely does fat bikes better.

  51. #3351
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    The way the black arms bronze but not the base is actually really cool looking.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Levelheadsteve View Post
    Looks like a 1UP is probably the way to go, despite the need for a U lock to ensure it from sliding out. The Saris Superclamp looks nice too, but you have to pay an extra $99 for a long wheelbase tray if over 48".
    I have both a 1up 1.25 Quik Rack with one add on tray, and a Saris Superclamp 2. Overall in many ways I like the Saris better, and I also got a great deal on it so it was nearly 1/2 the price of the black 1up setup. I previously owned a custom hitch rack that I made using Thule Sidearm roof trays, so basically a T2.

    Saying the 1up needs a u-lock to keep it from sliding out is misleading and wrong. When I first got mine it loosened up occasionally due to really bumpy roads, but once I snugged it back down stayed tight. It didn't move or slide at all, and if it did the Velcro strap is sufficient to keep it in place.

    My 1up Quik Rack review:

    Pros: Looks like something I would build (as a MechE), is very low profile when not being used and folds up close to the bumper (both important if leaving the rack on your vehicle all of the time), is pretty easy to install (although the velcro strap adds some hassle), and should last a long time being very well built.
    Cons: Heavy if you take it on and off the car often, bikes wobble on trays more than other racks, latches for wheel holders can be tricky to release and operate smoothly, hard to tilt down with bikes on it, and it's expensive.

    Why I like the Saris Superclamp 2 more than the 1up:
    Nearly 10lbs lighter and overall more compact for taking on and off car frequently
    Uses a threaded hitch pin so it is impossible to fall out of the receiver while still being wobble free
    Bikes do not wobble in trays at all; trays are just as quick to load and likely faster to unload than 1up
    Less expensive, although new EX version has upped the price a bit but new features make it more competitive and cover a wider range of bikes.

    Really any of the wheel holding hitch racks from 1up, Saris, Kuat, Thule, Yakima, etc are great, it's just a choice of which features are most important for each person.
    Last edited by JustMtnB44; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:17 PM.

  53. #3353
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustMtnB44 View Post
    I have both a 1up 1.25 Quik Rack with one add on tray, and a Saris Superclamp 2. Overall in many ways I like the Saris better, and I also got a great deal on it so it was nearly 1/2 the price of the black 1up setup. I previously owned a custom hitch rack that I made using Thule Sidearm roof trays, so basically a T2.

    Saying the 1up needs a u-lock to keep it from sliding out is misleading and wrong. When I first got mine it loosened up occasionally due to really bumpy roads, but once I snugged it back down stayed tight. It didn't move or slide at all, and if it did the Velcro strap is sufficient to keep it in place.

    My 1up Quik Rack review:

    Pros: Looks like something I would build (as a MechE), is very low profile when not being used, folds up close to the bumper, is pretty easy to install (although the velcro strap adds some hassle), and should last a long time being very well built.
    Cons: Heavy if you take it on and off the car often, bikes wobble on trays more than other racks, latches for wheel holders can be tricky to release and operate smoothly, hard to tilt down with bikes on it, and it's expensive.

    Why I like the Saris Superclamp 2 more than the 1up:
    Nearly 10lbs lighter and overall more compact for taking on and off car frequently
    Uses a threaded hitch pin so it is impossible to fall out of the receiver while still being wobble free
    Bikes do not wobble in trays at all; trays are just as quick to load and likely faster to unload than 1up
    Less expensive, although new EX version has upped the price a bit but new features make it more competitive and cover a wider range of bikes.

    Really any of the wheel holding hitch racks from 1up, Saris, Thule, Yakima, etc are great, it's just a choice of which features are most important for each person.
    Thanks very much for the input. I guess if you don't need a U lock to prevent sliding, it's still needed to help prevent theft. I'll have another look at the superclamp.

  54. #3354
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    It is not still needed to prevent theft. A lock can be placed over the unique hex bolt, blocking access.

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    True, but many 1up owners, at least as evidenced here on MTBR, choose to use a U lock instead. I'm guessing it's a two birds, one stone thing. Then no need for the Velcro strap and the hitch bolt lock.
    Last edited by Levelheadsteve; 4 Weeks Ago at 11:08 AM.

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    Finally got the 1up for the car. The bike seems to wobble a fair bit when driving though. I'm thinking some pipe insulation over the sides of the support arms to fill the small void between the arms and the tires may help. Anyone else try this?


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  57. #3357
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    Quote Originally Posted by whezy View Post
    Finally got the 1up for the car. The bike seems to wobble a fair bit when driving though. I'm thinking some pipe insulation over the sides of the support arms to fill the small void between the arms and the tires may help. Anyone else try this?
    Some wobbling is expected because the bike is only held on by the tires. With a fat bike you can expect even more wobbling given its girth. BTW, how is lifting up the fat bike on to the roof after a long ride? I was considering a roof mounted bike rack for my car but I'm afraid I'd end up dropping it trying to lift up my heavy fat bike that high after a ride.
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    Most of that motion is rotation around the headset...where the bike is designed to rotate. Should not be a problem as long as its not so much as to have the bikes banging into one another.

  59. #3359
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Some wobbling is expected because the bike is only held on by the tires. With a fat bike you can expect even more wobbling given its girth. BTW, how is lifting up the fat bike on to the roof after a long ride? I was considering a roof mounted bike rack for my car but I'm afraid I'd end up dropping it trying to lift up my heavy fat bike that high after a ride.
    I'll let it wobble as is for a while and see how it plays out then. The car and bike is actually my wife's. She does not seem to have any issue lifting it.


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  60. #3360
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    I wonder with a fat bike how much tire pressure would effect the wobble. You might be able to solve with a tire pump.

  61. #3361
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metamorphic View Post
    I wonder with a fat bike how much tire pressure would effect the wobble. You might be able to solve with a tire pump.
    I don't know about others but I run 7-8 psi in my fat bike tires. Although it does wobble a bit in the rack while driving I don't think it wobbles enough to justify pumping more air in the tires. It would be really annoying to have to keep lowering the pressure after I take the bike off the rack to ride and then have to pump them back up again after the ride before putting the bike on the rack. I just don't think the wobble is an issue because it's just the tires. No part of the rack touches the frame, fork, or wheels. Only rubber to rack contact. So scraping or rubbing at all.
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  62. #3362
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    Ignore the wobble.

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  63. #3363
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    Quote Originally Posted by Silentfoe View Post
    Ignore the wobble.

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    Agreed. I'm OCD about my car and my bike...and I could not be more happy with the 1Up.

    I should say I thought I was OCD...until reading some of the stuff in this thread.
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  64. #3364
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    Quote Originally Posted by 007 View Post
    I have been running my 1UP with 2" stinger in a Torklift ecohitch 2" receiver. I've noticed that it is almost impossible to make it so that there's zero play in the rack. I have to tighten down the ball pretty good and then lift the rack, which creates some play and then tighten down the ball again. I don't think its going to back out at all, but its kind of like the receiver isn't perfectly square over its length . . . like its just a tad wider at the back, allowing the rack some slight movement. Anyone else get this? I'm not really sure how to fix it.
    Did you ever sort this out? I already have a 1Up, and I'm looking at the Torklift receiver for my next car (Crosstrek) but I'm little concerned at how short the receiver is.

    FWIW I had zero play with the 1Up with my last car's receiver over 4 years, with most of that time with the rack on the car.

  65. #3365
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    I have had my 1up (single unilt; 2") on the ecohitch for about 4 months now. Has no play. Haven't had to tighten it. Took it off and put it on F 150 for a beach trip and so far good to go with F150 as well.

    Ecohitch and 1up very pleased with so far.
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  66. #3366
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    Anyone using a 1up with a Class 1 Draw-tite or hidden hitch? It seems that these hitches have a "stop tab" welded indention on the receiver (to prevent Class 2 products being used one the Class 1 hitch as a safety precaution). How do you work around this because the expander ball will not slide into the receiver and meet the 2" minimum insertion for the expander ball.

  67. #3367
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    Quote Originally Posted by OCBion View Post
    Anyone using a 1up with a Class 1 Draw-tite or hidden hitch? It seems that these hitches have a "stop tab" welded indention on the receiver (to prevent Class 2 products being used one the Class 1 hitch as a safety precaution). How do you work around this because the expander ball will not slide into the receiver and meet the 2" minimum insertion for the expander ball.
    I have an invisi-hitch (Execuhitch) on my BMW 328 wagon and it works fine. Mine my be different and the receiver is specifically marked as not suitable for towing and only for a bike rack. It's really a nice combination.

  68. #3368
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    I posted in his thread way back at the beginning. Ive had my 1Up for years and thousands of miles now. I swap it between my Yukon and my MDX frequently. Ive never replaced any parts, and it works great. That is all.


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  69. #3369
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott In MD View Post
    I posted in his thread way back at the beginning. Ive had my 1Up for years and thousands of miles now. I swap it between my Yukon and my MDX frequently. Ive never replaced any parts, and it works great. That is all.


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    What he said. This week I realized 2012-2017 with winter use has it in fine shape. It has worked and aged well like no other rack I've had while also getting far more use.
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  70. #3370
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    Quote Originally Posted by bitflogger View Post
    What he said. This week I realized 2012-2017 with winter use has it in fine shape. It has worked and aged well like no other rack I've had while also getting far more use.
    Same dates for me. Bought mine in mid-2012 and I leave it on year-round. I've added fatbike spacers, but other than that I haven't changed a thing.

  71. #3371
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Same dates for me. Bought mine in mid-2012 and I leave it on year-round. I've added fatbike spacers, but other than that I haven't changed a thing.
    Ditto. fat bike spacers, on my car year round.
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  72. #3372
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    I've not seen one close up, and I'm wondering how secure a bike is on this rack system. Seeing how the bike is held upright by two arms at each wheel, is there any back and forth or side to side movement?

    Could someone post a pic of their rack folded up that shows the distance from bumper to tray?

    Btw, why is the black rack so much more expensive?

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  73. #3373
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    Quote Originally Posted by djork View Post
    I've not seen one close up, and I'm wondering how secure a bike is on this rack system. Seeing how the bike is held upright by two arms at each wheel, is there any back and forth or side to side movement?

    Could someone post a pic of their rack folded up that shows the distance from bumper to tray?
    When you ask if there are any back and forth, side to side movements did you mean with respect to the bike or to the car? With respect to the car there are some back and forth movement as expected since the only parts of the bike that the rack touches are the tires which is good since there won't be any rubbing, scratching, or scraping of the frame or wheels. There are no side to side movements. As for the distance from the folded try to the bumper, that varies depending on the vehicle and the receiver hitch. Different vehicles have different bumpers and different hitches stick out from the rear differently so it's hard to say how much gap you can expect. Best thing to do is ask people in this forum if they have the same make, model, and year vehicle as you and go from there.
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  74. #3374
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    When you ask if there are any back and forth, side to side movements did you mean with respect to the bike or to the car? With respect to the car there are some back and forth movement as expected since the only parts of the bike that the rack touches are the tires which is good since there won't be any rubbing, scratching, or scraping of the frame or wheels. There are no side to side movements. As for the distance from the folded try to the bumper, that varies depending on the vehicle and the receiver hitch. Different vehicles have different bumpers and different hitches stick out from the rear differently so it's hard to say how much gap you can expect. Best thing to do is ask people in this forum if they have the same make, model, and year vehicle as you and go from there.
    Thanks for the info. Regarding movement, I was thinking more of how the bike might move while seated on the rack, seeing how only the two "universal" fit arms secure the bike with no aid of straps or arm hook on frame to prevent sway.

    I was watching some videos on YouTube about this rack, and I'm now leaning more on purchasing one. I especially like the low profile when folded and how it hugs the bumper compared to other racks. What is the official weight for single tray?

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  75. #3375
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    Quote Originally Posted by djork View Post
    Thanks for the info. Regarding movement, I was thinking more of how the bike might move while seated on the rack, seeing how only the two "universal" fit arms secure the bike with no aid of straps or arm hook on frame to prevent sway.

    I was watching some videos on YouTube about this rack, and I'm now leaning more on purchasing one. I especially like the low profile when folded and how it hugs the bumper compared to other racks. What is the official weight for single tray?

    Sent from my C6916 using Tapatalk
    I had the same concerns. I bought the rack and it works perfectly. Very little movement of the bike (Pivot Switchblade 29er). I went ahead and bought two wheel locks and a hitch lock at the same time so they'd all be keyed the same. They sent two keys for each lock meaning I have six keys available, so no worries about replacements. They also include two of the special hex wrenches so you have a spare available.

    They claim the black is more expensive to produce, so they charge more. I bought the black and it looks great. I've only used the rack a few times for a few hundred miles total, but zero issues so far. I'm very happy with it.

  76. #3376
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    Just curious for all you 1Uppers....

    With the SS hardware....for the times where you've needed to remove/adjust something, has it been pretty painlessly everytime. I shudder when I think of SS cold welded screws/bolts.

  77. #3377
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Just curious for all you 1Uppers....

    With the SS hardware....for the times where you've needed to remove/adjust something, has it been pretty painlessly everytime. I shudder when I think of SS cold welded screws/bolts.
    It's been problem free for me every time.
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  78. #3378
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    Normally I only have 1 bike on my rack, but when I put two on, it sure blocks the taillights. Get me worrying since more people on the roads aren't paying attention.

    I am going to add a set of LED taillights (8" strips made for motorcycles) to each side, and wire a pigtail in that I can plug into my trailer wiring plug.

    Will update once parts are in.

  79. #3379
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    When you add MORE than 1 tray to the rack, is it just a tray add add on or does the hinge release someone get's *extended* to the front of the tray. aka, I'm looking/comparing it to the T2 Pro XT

  80. #3380
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    When you add MORE than 1 tray to the rack, is it just a tray add add on or does the hinge release someone get's *extended* to the front of the tray. aka, I'm looking/comparing it to the T2 Pro XT
    It's just a tray add on. If you look at the tray on the rack you'll see 2 bolts. Those loosen for the add on try to slide in to. Then you tighten the bolts to secure it. Those bolts use the same keyed hex wrench that secures the rack to the receiver hitch. No need to remove the rack to add another tray.
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  81. #3381
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    Sorry, if I was not clear. I'm aware the tray add on is easy to install/remove.
    I was talking about the rack Pivot release

    If I add 1 or 2 extra trays, does the pivot release handle/mechanisim get extended *up front*, or will it just remain on the bottom, right where the 1st tray is

  82. #3382
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Sorry, if I was not clear. I'm aware the tray add on is easy to install/remove.
    I was talking about the rack Pivot release

    If I add 1 or 2 extra trays, does the pivot release handle/mechanisim get extended *up front*, or will it just remain on the bottom, right where the 1st tray is
    No that part of the track does not get moved/changed/extended.

  83. #3383
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    Right, the release remains at the at the main rack but there are a couple of hacks that people did to extend the release by using cables.
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  84. #3384
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    Almost done with the lights, just need to secure the wires better. Super bright and should be way more visible.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_20170712_221200445-2672x1503.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_20170712_224311662-1503x2672.jpg

    I'll get better pictures too
    Last edited by Shark; 1 Week Ago at 08:04 AM.

  85. #3385
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Almost done with the lights, just need to secure the wires better. Super bright and should be way more visible.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Awesome.
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  86. #3386
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    slick

  87. #3387
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    Almost done with the lights, just need to secure the wires better. Super bright and should be way more visible.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'll get better pictures too
    VERY Cool. I"ve been thinking about doing something similar for a while.

    Couple questions....

    Are the lights easily relocated as you add and remove trays?
    Are they running lights only, running and brakes, or the whole shebang with blinkers too?
    Source for the light bars?

  88. #3388
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    Mtbr needs a dedicated 1up Quikrack forum, dedicated solely to the glory that is 1UP, USA. Sub forums can include:

    Buyers remorse
    Buyers glory,
    1.25", 2",
    Rack security,
    Rack Enve

    Feel free to brainstorm...🙃
    Todd

  89. #3389
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    Can we TALK about the BLACK Finish ?
    Everyone seems to consensually agree it changes color...


    I'm familiar with powdercoated items and it should not fade/change due to uv exposure.
    Dunno? Anyone have a black rack in the last 2-3 years. Hopefully, dunno <> they have switched to a better powdercoater ?

  90. #3390
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    Can we TALK about the BLACK Finish ?
    Everyone seems to consensually agree it changes color...


    I'm familiar with powdercoated items and it should not fade/change due to uv exposure.
    Dunno? Anyone have a black rack in the last 2-3 years. Hopefully, dunno <> they have switched to a better powdercoater ?
    The trays and arms are alu. Not powdercoated. They would have an ano finish, which does fade from uv exposure. The steel bits would be powdercoated.

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  91. #3391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    The trays and arms are alu. Not powdercoated. They would have an ano finish, which does fade from uv exposure. The steel bits would be powdercoated.

    Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
    The original racks were anodized. To cut cost they started to powder coat the racks for both gray and black. Many people have complained about the power coating either fading or chipping. I don't know if they went back to anodizing.
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  92. #3392
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    The original racks were anodized. To cut cost they started to powder coat the racks for both gray and black. Many people have complained about the power coating either fading or chipping. I don't know if they went back to anodizing.
    I have a couple gray roof trays. Def not powder coated. Look and feel like raw alu to me.

    The steel parts are a different story altogether.

    Now my kuat rack is mostly powder coated gray but it has a few orange ano bits. But it is also mostly steel.

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  93. #3393
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    So which ones is it. Is their alum raw and clearcoated. Or just raw. Or PC. I suppose a phone call to 1up on Monday will clarify.

    I would prefer PC to anodized aluminum anyday. At the end of the end, it's up to the prep/pc applicator on whether it stands the test of time.

  94. #3394
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    Trying to figure out if the 1up will work with my Ford Transit. Anyone have both and can comment/post pics? Particularly clearance on the bottom of the doors when getting in the back, and how far from hitch receiver face to rack tray when folded up (I've got a ladder on the door I'm trying to figure out if it will clear). Thanks!

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  95. #3395
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    Quote Originally Posted by mobiledynamics View Post
    So which ones is it. Is their alum raw and clearcoated. Or just raw. Or PC. I suppose a phone call to 1up on Monday will clarify.

    I would prefer PC to anodized aluminum anyday. At the end of the end, it's up to the prep/pc applicator on whether it stands the test of time.
    The aluminum trays are anodized, and the black anodized will fade to a purplish color over time as it is exposed to the sun. If you think this might bother you, get the raw aluminum finish.

  96. #3396
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    Made a wall mount hitch receiver for the rack out of super strut I had sitting around. About 4-5 feet off the ground so I can have the bike on it and park the car under it.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170709_110604.jpg

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170709_110554.jpg

  97. #3397
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    Straight from the horses mouth per se.
    Called up 1UP.

    All the trays, whether it be silver or black, are PC'ed.
    ALL the other parts are anodized. There is no raw ~alum~ finish. Black and silver are both anodized on all other parts except for the trays.

  98. #3398
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDRex View Post
    Made a wall mount hitch receiver for the rack out of super strut I had sitting around. About 4-5 feet off the ground so I can have the bike on it and park the car under it.

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    Very Clever.
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  99. #3399
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    Kindorf for the win.
    What's the purpose of the flat 90's in the config. that you have ?

  100. #3400
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    Quote Originally Posted by MDRex View Post
    Made a wall mount hitch receiver for the rack out of super strut I had sitting around. About 4-5 feet off the ground so I can have the bike on it and park the car under it.

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    Why didn't you simply buy the wall mount RachStash ($59) for the 1up from 1 up?

    https://www.1upusa.com/product-rackstash2.html

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