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  1. #3201
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    Quote Originally Posted by canker View Post
    Well I do remember reading on here probably in the huge thread about a guy with a defective one that kept coming loose and another guy that had his come loose after driving at higher speeds on a very bumpy gravel road for a long time. I just have mine chained to the hitch because I'm paranoid.
    That's a great solution both for security/ theft (we've been having lots of racks getting stolen off of cars in Colorado lately [wtf?]) as well as peace of mind (the velcro strap solution is just stupid).
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  2. #3202
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Yup, The first claim was definitely fake. Many have called him out on it, myself included, and he never responded. I've done tests with mine and it never moved after driving hundreds of miles with 2 bikes on. What I do is once the rack is in the receiver and tightened up I wrap the exposed shaft with duct tape leaving no gap between the tape and the end of the receiver. This way if I see a gap between them then I know it has shifted. After thousands of miles in over years it hasn't moved an inch. So when I put the rack back on the hitch I use the tape as a guide to know what to stop inserting.
    Your duct tape approach is a clever test. I have mine marked with a sharpie at minimum insertion point. I may try a variation of your test, either marker or something firm like a bungy that may be easier to remove than duct tape.


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  3. #3203
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank daleview View Post
    Attachment 1117444

    This is my easy access handle. It really is very nice rack but it could use a little updating.
    This. This is awesome. I got my rack about a month ago and have four trays on it much of the time. I love everything about it except I think the velcro solution and the release lever are significant weaknesses in design (both that could probably be easily remedied by the company with a little time and engineering). With four trays, the thing is nearly impossible to operate (raise/ lower) with one person (and forget about lowering it with bikes on it).

    I've been thinking about doing something like this, but using shifter or brake cable and housing or something like that. If I ever get around to the project, I'll post here.

    How well does this work for you? I haven't had time to search all 64 pages of this forum- are there other solutions like this?

    Thanks!
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  4. #3204
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    Just ordered my add on rack for when friends want to tag along, or I want to take the DJ bike with me. Just FYI, it appears their shipping rates have come down some.

  5. #3205
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    Quote Originally Posted by HPIguy View Post
    Just ordered my add on rack for when friends want to tag along, or I want to take the DJ bike with me. Just FYI, it appears their shipping rates have come down some.
    Just did exactly the same. There's always that 3rd guy! $9 shipping is fantastic.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_4832.jpg
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  6. #3206
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    I'm not sure either. Mine says on the Jeep almost all year, never loosened up on its own. I wonder if the people that have loosening issues don't give it a lift as they are tightening initially.
    I just pulled my rack off to install a 2nd fatbike spacer. I found that the 1.25" to 2" spacer was slightly loose and took half a turn to tighten back down. That probably didn't help in my case.

  7. #3207
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    Rack security

    Here's what I use to secure the rack. It serves 2 purposes: keeps from getting it stolen and from sliding out of the hitch. Notice on the shaft going in to the receiver hitch there's a piece of duct tape on it? I use it for 2 reason:It tells me when to stop inserting when I'm putting it on and I use it to see if the rack has slipped out of its original position. So far I haven't noticed any movement from all the times I've installed, uninstalled, and carried bikes for the last 3+ years I've had the rack and many hundreds of miles of travel with bikes in the rack. 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170204_131025.jpg
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  8. #3208
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    I know it is 2.5 years later, but i found this thread and am having the same issue. The ball isn't fully retracting and it's a bi@$h to get off. Anyone have this problem and found a remedy? I can tell that the ball is past the parallel line of the edge where it sticks out and when i insert it it starts to stick once the ball enters. Anyway, hope someone can help. Thanks.

  9. #3209
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    Quote Originally Posted by blair@blairam.com View Post
    I know it is 2.5 years later, but i found this thread and am having the same issue. The ball isn't fully retracting and it's a bi@$h to get off. Anyone have this problem and found a remedy? I can tell that the ball is past the parallel line of the edge where it sticks out and when i insert it it starts to stick once the ball enters. Anyway, hope someone can help. Thanks.
    I'm trying to understand your situation. Are you saying the ball will not return/drop back into the rack when you turn the key counter clockwise to release it? Thus you cannot get the rack out of the receiver? If this is your case, this happen to me several times. The rack seems to be welded into the receiver and will not come out.

    (Sidebar: Which is why I find it hard to believe the rack came out of the receiver when driving for some folks, anyways...)

    I have the two bike rack. What I have had to do is grab onto the rack and rock that sucker up and down with force. Rocking it to the point the SUV rear tires are about to come off the ground and it is very tiring! Sometimes it takes a few tries and it snaps and I can pull it out. That has been a pain in the neck! Here is what I did and it has worked so far.

    I was going to pick up a wood shim from Lowes or Home Depot and put that into the receiver and then put the rack in.

    Why? Well, the ball is coming too far out and when it does, it won't retract. I even sprayed some silicon inside the rack and greased the ball, but nothing it still gets stuck when the ball comes all the way out. I tried this when the rack is out of the truck. However, I never went to Lowes but found a piece of stiff cardboard instead and cut it to fit the receiver. I put the cardboard into the receiver, only about 3 inches and it sticks out about 3 inches.

    Then I put the rack into the receiver. Insert the key and turn clockwise to tighten as tight as possible and it is solid as usual! I can pull on it up and down and it is solid. Took the key and turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up. It worked, the ball dropped and the rack came out! The cardboard prevents the ball from coming all the way out to the point of no retraction.

    I called 1UP USA and they told me some of the newer aftermarket receivers have too much play in them. They said all it takes is like a quarter inch of play. This is my case, I have an aftermarket receiver and it has a little less than a quarter inch of play when the rack is in. Well the cardboard or a wood shim stops that because it takes away that play and the ball cannot go that far; yet, it goes far enough and tight enough that you don't have to worry about it coming loose. Not to mention, it comes out so easy!

    I did this cardboard trick and went on a 200mi road trip and checked the rack periodically and it was solid and tight! Let me be clear, 1UP did not tell me to insert cardboard or a shim, I came up with that after greasing the ball didn't work to drop it. It is at your own risk, but I don't think there is a risk because that sucker is in there tight! But comes out so simple.

    Sorry this is so long, but I hope it helps you out.

  10. #3210
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    So this is a good point, and related to hitches. I bought an aftermarket hitch for my Wrangler. It sucked. The receiver hole was too big and the fit was sloppy too (where it bolts on to the frame rails. I would have had to use thick washers to make it fit without bending the metal. I bought a takeoff hitch from a guy who bought a bumper with an integrated hitch. It was perfect. So if possible, get an OEM hitch made to certain specific specs by one of the major hitch makers. I think Hidden Hitch is pretty decent but Reese gets worse reviews.

  11. #3211
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rev. 14 View Post
    I'm trying to understand your situation. Are you saying the ball will not return/drop back into the rack when you turn the key counter clockwise to release it? Thus you cannot get the rack out of the receiver? If this is your case, this happen to me several times. The rack seems to be welded into the receiver and will not come out.

    (Sidebar: Which is why I find it hard to believe the rack came out of the receiver when driving for some folks, anyways...)

    I have the two bike rack. What I have had to do is grab onto the rack and rock that sucker up and down with force. Rocking it to the point the SUV rear tires are about to come off the ground and it is very tiring! Sometimes it takes a few tries and it snaps and I can pull it out. That has been a pain in the neck! Here is what I did and it has worked so far.

    I was going to pick up a wood shim from Lowes or Home Depot and put that into the receiver and then put the rack in.

    Why? Well, the ball is coming too far out and when it does, it won't retract. I even sprayed some silicon inside the rack and greased the ball, but nothing it still gets stuck when the ball comes all the way out. I tried this when the rack is out of the truck. However, I never went to Lowes but found a piece of stiff cardboard instead and cut it to fit the receiver. I put the cardboard into the receiver, only about 3 inches and it sticks out about 3 inches.

    Then I put the rack into the receiver. Insert the key and turn clockwise to tighten as tight as possible and it is solid as usual! I can pull on it up and down and it is solid. Took the key and turned it counter clockwise to loosen it up. It worked, the ball dropped and the rack came out! The cardboard prevents the ball from coming all the way out to the point of no retraction.

    I called 1UP USA and they told me some of the newer aftermarket receivers have too much play in them. They said all it takes is like a quarter inch of play. This is my case, I have an aftermarket receiver and it has a little less than a quarter inch of play when the rack is in. Well the cardboard or a wood shim stops that because it takes away that play and the ball cannot go that far; yet, it goes far enough and tight enough that you don't have to worry about it coming loose. Not to mention, it comes out so easy!

    I did this cardboard trick and went on a 200mi road trip and checked the rack periodically and it was solid and tight! Let me be clear, 1UP did not tell me to insert cardboard or a shim, I came up with that after greasing the ball didn't work to drop it. It is at your own risk, but I don't think there is a risk because that sucker is in there tight! But comes out so simple.

    Sorry this is so long, but I hope it helps you out.
    Yes, this is exactly what happened. I have to shake the hell out of my car and wiggle and shake to get it out. Tiring and hurts my back. Plus i'm afraid it will just come flying out and with the 4 rack that wouldn't be pretty. I appreciate your ingenuity, but I'm always nervous enough that the thing is going to work it's way out, i don't think i could handle the added stress of an additional piece wedged in the receiver. Hopefully 1up will replace it or repair it. Someone else said that because i tightened i so much there is a brass wedge that pushes the ball out that can get a notch in it, therefore not allowing it to slide out and retract. He pulled the ball bearing out and filed the brass wedge which solved it. Though i would thing that once the ball bearing is pulled out it could pop out more easily in the future? I'll keep you posted to see if 1up has a solution. I really do love the rack, but for the amount we paid, it should work. it's not like it was operator error. I mean, should i not tighten the ballbearing that tight? seems counterintuitive to securing the rack to me. Thanks for your reply!

  12. #3212
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    I was in this situation before when I first bought the rack. I paid a premium as well as I purchased the black two bike rack. I think it was like $650 or something. Anyway, same thing, I could not get it out. I had to take my SUV to Toyota and the shop guys used something to pry it out.

    I sent it back to 1UP and they sent me another one, they didn't charge me shipping or anything, great CS. Well as I took it out one day the ball fell out. I called 1UP again and they said put the ball back in then take a hammer and hammer the metal edges. Problem solved.

    As far as filing the rod that pushes the ball out because it develops a notch, I think that is BS. When I called 1UP, they never said anything about that. They did tell me to turn the allen tool clockwise as tight as can be tightened, they said you want that ball to push against the receiver tight so the rack will not come out. So, if they want you to do that it but was counterintuitive because the rod develops a notch then they have a flawed product. So I think that is nonsense. If the ball comes out, just put it back in and hammer the sides of the rack that hold the ball in. The ball has never fallen out of mine again after 1Up told me to do that.

    You don't have to hammer it crazy hard either, just a couple medium taps on each side and you're done.

    You're problem may be your receiver, it maybe too loose and it doesn't take much like I said, just quarter inch will do it. Try the cardboard or a metal wedge. What you are trying to do is take that play out of the receiver so the rack comes out when you want it to. I'm telling you it works and it will not fall out of the vehicle going down the road.

    But call 1UP and tell them what you have happening. Tell them suggestions made on this forum. I'd be interested in their response. I know they will point to your receiver hitch. By the way, is your receiver hitch after market or OEM?

    Yes, it does hurt the back to move that sucker up and down to "pop" that thing out. That is coming from a former bodybuilder who is about 220lbs and carries quite a bit of muscle. I find it tiring and a pain in the neck!

  13. #3213
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    I pulled the pin out and it did have a small notch where the ball pressed against it, but like you said, I imagine that is common. The part that was surprising was that the pin was cracked and the end.

  14. #3214
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    Check out what else a 1up can carry!
    I'm a mountain bike guide in southwest Utah

  15. #3215
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    ^^lmao!

  16. #3216
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  17. #3217
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    As tight as that is, I fear it will slowly saw through the aluminum over time with vibration.

  18. #3218
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    Quote Originally Posted by HPIguy View Post
    As tight as that is, I fear it will slowly saw through the aluminum over time with vibration.
    That's good thinking- and I'll probably put some clear protective tape on the underside of that aluminum bar for prudence's sake (and it will also serve as a nice indicator to check it periodically), however, it's not tight at all. It looks taught in the pictures, but there's enough slack that I can remove it by hand without sliding the rack in. You'll notice there's no kinking in the cable around the square.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  19. #3219
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    Quote Originally Posted by HPIguy View Post
    As tight as that is, I fear it will slowly saw through the aluminum over time with vibration.
    Could happen but probably not in your lifetime.

    J.

  20. #3220
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    Understood, but as expensive as these racks are, I wouldn't take the risk. I'd have vinyl coated the cable personally as others in the thread have done.

  21. #3221
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    Quote Originally Posted by HPIguy View Post
    Understood, but as expensive as these racks are, I wouldn't take the risk. I'd have vinyl coated the cable personally as others in the thread have done.
    You're worried about the rack failing because of the cable cutting into the aluminum of the rack or for just cosmetic reasons?

    J.

  22. #3222
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    Just wear and tear in general. It will dig into the rack over time, no different than cable housings digging into your frame if you don't protect it. I work hard for my stuff, as I'm sure most do. For that reason, I like to take care of my things. And, there's no reason not to.

  23. #3223
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    Quote Originally Posted by HPIguy View Post
    Understood, but as expensive as these racks are, I wouldn't take the risk. I'd have vinyl coated the cable personally as others in the thread have done.
    Also a great idea. I'll do that on the next iteration. I starting going through the pages of this thread when I was thinking about the idea, but it took less time to get to Home Depot, get the parts and install than the hours and hours it would take to pour through these pages.

    Is there anyone who has put together an extension handle other than the guy on the last page with the wood handle? That's going to be my next improvement to tackle at some point.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  24. #3224
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    None of the credit goes to me, it's all in this thread. Nice work on the cable either way, need to fab up one myself at some point.

  25. #3225
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcpunk View Post
    I tried that...not much luck. So I cobbed together this little setup. Actually works pretty well. The issue isn't really that it sticks, but that it is hard to pull the bar evenly. I also have 2 smaller loops I can attach to the cord for when I run 3 or 4 trays, I just thread them through the final hole in the last rack and attach the handle to hold it there. Honestly, with 2 racks it it only a minor improvement. When you have 4 racks on there, it is invaluable. ( to me ).

    Basic idea:

    • Cut a section of 1" pipe just shorter than the bar
    • Cut that section of pipe in half length ways. We need something to keep the cord out at the ends of the bar.
    • Drill two small holes in the ends of the "half-pipe".
    • Knot some cord through the pipe and attach to bar. ( zip ties keep it in place. i just used some random paracord i had lying around. you can probably find something better? )
    • Put loose end of cord through something to make a handle. (Again, I had an old yakima attachment nut lying around )


    The paracord isn't the best. A bit stretchy. Some thin cable might be ideal? Or high quality cord that doesn't stretch. ( dyneema etc ) I wasn't going to go out and actually buy something...too cheap for that

    Closeup of the connection to the bar from above.
    Attachment 1106074

    From below:
    Attachment 1106076
    In operation...
    Stoked on this solution. I'm planning on doing something with brake cables/ housing (was thinking of using something like the old Odyssey Gyro brake adapters that go from one cable to two), but haven't figured it all out yet. Any changes/ improvements in your design? What works well, what doesn't? Thanks!
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  26. #3226
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    I would recommend grabbing some old brake or shifter cable housing and thread the cable you're using in it to use the housing to protect the cable from cutting up the aluminum rack.
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  27. #3227
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Stoked on this solution. I'm planning on doing something with brake cables/ housing (was thinking of using something like the old Odyssey Gyro brake adapters that go from one cable to two), but haven't figured it all out yet. Any changes/ improvements in your design? What works well, what doesn't? Thanks!
    It worked ok, I was happy with it. I put it together quickly with the things I had on hand, vs. engineering something clever. One of my requirements was that it was easy to change when I added extra racks. ( I usually keep 2 on and then add numbers 3/4 as required ).

    With only 2, you hardly need it anyway.

    But I did it in the fall ... and don't use the rack in the winter much. It's ski season after all I guess the long term review won't be in till the end of next summer.

  28. #3228
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    Thanks! Yeah- I've been thinking on this for months already and it's not likely going to happen for a good while. I also typically keep 2 on, then add 3 & 4, so have been thinking of possibly using cable couplers (like used on bikes with S&S couplers) to be able to have it adapt between the sizes. The problem is, my ideas far outpace my skills/ ability/ time for implementation.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  29. #3229
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

    So I'm in a bit of a predicament. Trading in my truck Tuesday and need to remove the rack, but it's stuck. Really stuck. I believe the ball is not retracting into the tongue of the rack. The fastening bolt is removed, I removed the red cap from the channel in the rear of rack. I've tapped the brass wedge bolt backwards so the ball has room to retract but the ball just won't move. I've sledgehammered this thing every which way possible but nothing is getting that ball to drop. Any suggestions?

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_7489.jpg

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_7482.jpg

  30. #3230
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    That hitch looks pretty rusty, are you sure the ball is not retracting vs rust from the hitch holding it in?
    How long has it been in there without being taken off?

    I'd give it a good soaking of Kroil, PB blaster, or liquid wrench everywhere you can spray it in, and let it sit a day, then try again.

  31. #3231
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shark View Post
    That hitch looks pretty rusty, are you sure the ball is not retracting vs rust from the hitch holding it in?
    How long has it been in there without being taken off?

    I'd give it a good soaking of Kroil, PB blaster, or liquid wrench everywhere you can spray it in, and let it sit a day, then try again.
    I can't be sure, but I do agree I think the rust is a major factor. Guess I'm going to try some rust removal options now.

  32. #3232
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    Kroil... Pain to find but works best.

  33. #3233
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    Wow, just got a 1+1 and got a 1-1/4 hitch receiver installed today. Ever get a new frame and just stare at the welds, mesmerized by the workmanship? This rack is like that. Exceptional build quality all the way around, it's simply beautiful in an industrial arts kind of way and feels bulletproof. Plugged it into my hitch and played with loading my bike but no road experience with it yet, I'll be shocked if it has any shortcomings, it simply feels that well made. Nice packaging and instructions too. Kudos to 1Up for an exceptional product!

    *No financial interest in the company, just a very satisfied customer thus far

  34. #3234
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    Anyone here have a Mazda CX-5 and use a 1UP? Any issue blowing hot exhaust on the carbon wheels?

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    This may be an odd question, but here it goes.
    I want to buy some racks to mount to my existing roof rack. Shipping to my state is at least $60.
    I got an idea I could have them delivered to where I am staying on an upcoming vacation.
    1up tells me the box is 55"x6"x3". 64" total and the airline limit is 62".

    Has anyone ordered one of these and could tell me if there is any chance I could cut down the packaging?

    Thanks!

  36. #3236
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    Quote Originally Posted by frank daleview View Post
    This is my easy access handle. It really is very nice rack but it could use a little updating.
    that is GENIUS!!!! seriously.


    New car! (2016 Fiesta ST)

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170224_173802.jpg

  37. #3237
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    Thoughts on how I mounted mine?

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_20170312_170306711.jpg

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_20170312_170359266_hdr.jpg

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_20170312_170501684_hdr.jpg

  38. #3238
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    Quote Originally Posted by veryavgwhtguy View Post
    Thoughts on how I mounted mine?
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is asking for trouble. weight of bike + bouncing on the road = the whole assembly twisting right off at the bolts unless you get some serious support in there to prevent that. and I don't see that happening.

  39. #3239
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    Hmmm. This is alarming. I can tell by the amount of green chiclets under your name that you must have a lot of experience in these matters. Any advice on how to reinforce the rack so it doesn't twist off the bolts? Along which axis will the twisting happen?

    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    This is asking for trouble. weight of bike + bouncing on the road = the whole assembly twisting right off at the bolts unless you get some serious support in there to prevent that. and I don't see that happening.

  40. #3240
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    I see that you have the pipes mounted under the car to the frame in two locations. This makes the rear most mounting point (the point closest to the rear bumper) the pivot point. Meaning when you put weight on the pipes that stick out from the rear, this will have a downward force while the section of the pipes forward of the pivot point will have an upward force. This puts all the weight on the bolts at the pivot point. This might not be so bad when everything is stationary. However, once you start driving and hitting bumps on the roads and at high speeds with the weight of the rack and bike back there it is going to stress the heck out of the single bolt on each pipe thatís holding up all that weight. Keep in mind the bolt at the other end (closest to the front of the car) isnít seeing any weight or force because with the seesaw effect of the pivot the pipes at that end is pushing up against the frame. So without knowing the wall thickness of the pipes, the material of the pipes, or the material and diameter of the bolts, itís hard to say if your setup is safe. Now, your only saving grace is that the length of the pipes sticking out from under the bumper where the rack is mounted to is relatively short so you donít have too much of a moment arm but again, without knowing the info of the pipes and bolts being used it is very sketchy.
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  41. #3241
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    Quote Originally Posted by veryavgwhtguy View Post
    Hmmm. This is alarming. I can tell by the amount of green chiclets under your name that you must have a lot of experience in these matters. Any advice on how to reinforce the rack so it doesn't twist off the bolts? Along which axis will the twisting happen?
    I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you're using pipes for natural gas, its thick enough not to bend. If you're using electrical conduit, don't.

  42. #3242
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    Curiosity got the best of me and I did the design and allowable moment calculations for the pipes. I haven't done any structural design since 1998, so feel free to check my math. Looks like the two pipes together can support about 600 pounds.

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    I think the issue is the bolts not the pipe. Is that not true?

    J.

  44. #3244
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    Thread stripping is the most likely failure mode.

    Stress area (As) of the threads of a 1/2" x 13tpi nut = 0.142 in^2

    As = 0.7854 [D - (0.9743/n)]^2
    where
    As = stress area (in sq.)
    D = nominal bolt size (in.)
    n = threads per inch

    Grade 8 bolt tensile strength (which I used) is 120000 psi.

    Thread strength = As * Tensile strength = 0.142in^2 * 120000lb/in^2
    Thread strength = 17040 pounds. I think we're good.

    Sources: p. A-7 Fastenal.
    and this other chart



    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    I think the issue is the bolts not the pipe. Is that not true?

    J.

  45. #3245
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    Having actual info about the pipe and bolts helps in determining if your setup is safe. Nobody can tell just by looking at the pictures. With the questions being asked produced the details of the hardware which allowed everyone to come up with a answer without much assumption. Now, is the hardware stainless steel or basically corrosion resistant? You know the car is going to kick up a lot of nasty stuff from the roads that can easily eat away at the hardware if they're just plain steel.
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  46. #3246
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    I'm about ready to order one of these racks tomorrow but had a couple of questions first
    1. Don't the bikes rock forward and back since there is no bar in the center to hold it? Just the arms on the tires. How stable is this?

    2.Would the super duty model do a better job of holding the bikes?
    (See question #1)

    3. I'm not a big fan of the locking bolts but I'm over it now (I guess).
    Would the 1UP lock be better than a master lock to secure the rack to the vehicle?

    4. Does one color stay in better shape than the other?
    I have a Black SUV and was thinking of the silver color.

    Thanks in advance
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  47. #3247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtrider127 View Post
    I'm about ready to order one of these racks tomorrow but had a couple of questions first
    1. Don't the bikes rock forward and back since there is no bar in the center to hold it? Just the arms on the tires. How stable is this?

    2.Would the super duty model do a better job of holding the bikes?
    (See question #1)

    3. I'm not a big fan of the locking bolts but I'm over it now (I guess).
    Would the 1UP lock be better than a master lock to secure the rack to the vehicle?

    4. Does one color stay in better shape than the other?
    I have a Black SUV and was thinking of the silver color.

    Thanks in advance
    1. The arms are held firmly by a ratcheting mechanism. It is the most stable rack I have ever seen.

    2. Probably not, unless you have a 50lb+ bike. I have a super duty, it is awesome.

    3. I use a heavy duty chain to lock the frame of my bike and the rack to the hitch.

    4. I have silver, it looks like new after many months of use, and I don't ever park my SUV in a garage.
    Such a long long time to be gone
    and a short time to be there

  48. #3248
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5k bike 50cent legs View Post
    1. The arms are held firmly by a ratcheting mechanism. It is the most stable rack I have ever seen.

    2. Probably not, unless you have a 50lb+ bike. I have a super duty, it is awesome.

    3. I use a heavy duty chain to lock the frame of my bike and the rack to the hitch.

    4. I have silver, it looks like new after many months of use, and I don't ever park my SUV in a garage.
    Thanks 5K

    On #1 I was talking about moving forward when braking or backwards when taking off. The arms seem to do a great job of the side to side. The bikes seems to rock back & forth sideways in videos I have seen. That's not an issue at all?
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  49. #3249
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtrider127 View Post
    Thanks 5K

    On #1 I was talking about moving forward when braking or backwards when taking off. The arms seem to do a great job of the side to side. The bikes seems to rock back & forth sideways in videos I have seen. That's not an issue at all?
    Not an issue at all. The only part of the bike that touches the rack are the tires so there's no stress on the frame of the bike at all. In fact the tires absorbs shock from the rocking of the bike back and forth during braking and accelerating.
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  50. #3250
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dirtrider127 View Post
    Thanks 5K

    On #1 I was talking about moving forward when braking or backwards when taking off. The arms seem to do a great job of the side to side. The bikes seems to rock back & forth sideways in videos I have seen. That's not an issue at all?
    No issue at all.
    Such a long long time to be gone
    and a short time to be there

  51. #3251
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    The 1Up rack isn't perfect but stability/security of the bikes in the rack is not a problem. When I look in the rear view mirror I see no significant movement, whether it's our mtb's with 29x2.3 tires at 20 psi or our road bikes with 700x23 at 100 psi. Thousands of miles of pavement, hundreds of miles of dirt ... they don't move enough to cause problems. That said, I'd still arrange them to keep an inch or two between bikes if you're carrying more than one (i.e. Seat on one, bars on another, etc) in case they move out of sync. Also, I got silver, cheaper and less likely to show scratches. Finally, I also got their locks, but if you have an appropriately sized U lock or even padlock to lock the rack to a tow chain eye on your hitch, you can both secure it against theft and accidental loosening with one device.

  52. #3252
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-s1up-rack.jpg

    I am new to this forum (long time lurker) so this is my first post! I just purchased a 1 up super duty rack. Like most others, I am very happy with this rack, I think it's the best bike rack out there. One thing that really surprised me (in a good way) was that I am actually able to open my tailgate all the way with my bike on the rack!! When I ordered the rack I didn't think I would have that much room but this is really a great feature! Also, (like others) I purchased a small bike cable lock to replace the velcro strap. Seems to do the job for a security deterrent as well as the safety catch. Truly though I can not see this getting loose and sliding off, after snugging up the ball in the receiver this rack doesn't move at all. I'm a very happy customer!!!

  53. #3253
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    I pushed the button for a silver super duty and it took all my money
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  54. #3254
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    I've had my 1up 2 bike rack since 2012. Has worked great until the end of last year. The wheel holders started working loose after a long drive and it is getting worse. Now I can put the bikes on and push the holders against the wheels like usual and they will be loose in 5 mins. To the point of the 29er almost falling off. I tried cleaning everything with no luck. Now the silver bars that the locking mechanisms ride on are flat/smooth. I see on newer models they are notched along the top. Was this done to solve the problem I am having? I've emailed 1up with no response. Would like to get this fixed as right now the rack is useless.

  55. #3255
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    1UP USA should be able to send you the notched slide bar as a replacement (hopefully for free) but in the meantime I suspect you can just use a bungie cord to hook the 2 ends of the holding arms together to keep pressure towards the bike. You can either hook it through the holes on the arms or to the cone shaped cross members.
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  56. #3256
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renardo View Post
    I've had my 1up 2 bike rack since 2012. Has worked great until the end of last year. The wheel holders started working loose after a long drive and it is getting worse. Now I can put the bikes on and push the holders against the wheels like usual and they will be loose in 5 mins. To the point of the 29er almost falling off. I tried cleaning everything with no luck. Now the silver bars that the locking mechanisms ride on are flat/smooth. I see on newer models they are notched along the top. Was this done to solve the problem I am having? I've emailed 1up with no response. Would like to get this fixed as right now the rack is useless.
    those bars didn't use to have the notches in them on the earlier produced units. That was a running change. My rack has the smooth bars and they still hold just fine (4yrs+ rack usage) Undoubtedly replacing them with new ones, if you had that style originally, would likely fix them - BUT I'd also ask if the piece that locks onto those bars is subject to wear, and might need replacing.

    Good luck getting anything for free from them - never worked for me.

  57. #3257
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    Quote Originally Posted by Renardo View Post
    I've had my 1up 2 bike rack since 2012. Has worked great until the end of last year. The wheel holders started working loose after a long drive and it is getting worse. Now I can put the bikes on and push the holders against the wheels like usual and they will be loose in 5 mins. To the point of the 29er almost falling off. I tried cleaning everything with no luck. Now the silver bars that the locking mechanisms ride on are flat/smooth. I see on newer models they are notched along the top. Was this done to solve the problem I am having? I've emailed 1up with no response. Would like to get this fixed as right now the rack is useless.
    Just call them.

    My rack is the same design but older. I haven't had a problem with it holding. The bars of which you speak were smooth when I got it but they no longer are as they become notched from use. How did yours get smooth? I'm thinking if they are smooth, you are not pushing the end pieces in hard enough. I typically do it so that the tires deform substantially. I can't release the arms unless I push in on them to relieve tension. Is that how you are doing it?

    J.

  58. #3258
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    guarantee

    Quote Originally Posted by bad andy View Post
    those bars didn't use to have the notches in them on the earlier produced units. That was a running change. My rack has the smooth bars and they still hold just fine (4yrs+ rack usage) Undoubtedly replacing them with new ones, if you had that style originally, would likely fix them - BUT I'd also ask if the piece that locks onto those bars is subject to wear, and might need replacing.

    Good luck getting anything for free from them - never worked for me.
    We stand behind all our products and want you to be completely satisfied with your purchase.
    1up USA.com LLC guarantees a lifetime warranty on 1up USA products to the original consumer. Proof of purchase will be required on all warranty claims. Hawaii, Alaska and international customers will be required to pay for shipping on the returned or warranty product

  59. #3259
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    Haven't had my rack long, but just took it on a weekend trip to the desert. Both on the way there, and the way back, the rack slid out of my hitch about an inch. I wailed on the securing bolt both times with plenty of torque. Granted, this was on really rocky roads, with four bikes, but not very confidence inspiring- wish they had a pin of some sort.

    Also, I have the fat bike adapters on all four of my racks, and it definitely causes road bikes to wobble a bit. Gonna swap back to the skinny setup for the summer (though it's a bit of a pain).

    Also had a 16" kids' bike fall out, but it's possible I didn't have it tightened quite enough.

    Another thought on locking it to the car/ hitch mount: I don't recommend buying the 1up lock. I bought one when I ordered mine as there have been some rack thefts in the area, but the 1up lock prevents you from being able to tighten the securing bolt, which, apparently, is quite necessary on a semi-regular basis.

    It's a really well made rack, it's pretty, and it has some cool features, but the kool aid needs some more mix and maybe some sugar. As others have said, for such an expensive rack, there are several "annoyances" that surprise me.
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  60. #3260
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    My rack hasn't seen much use. Just started with it on a regular basis. Mine is pretty new. So far it hasn't required tightening. Maybe they addressed that on newer ones.

    I do have to say, its a tough ass rack. Yesterday on the am commute I was rear ended. The rack took a square hit. Messed up the Nissan front end pretty good. Only paint scratches and slight marring to a corner. Everything else held up very well.

    As a side note: I realized I have no damn clue how to pivot the rack. How do you do that? What is the release to pivot it? It's a single sled unit, hitch mount.
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  61. #3261
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    [QUOTE=alshead;13131018]Haven't had my rack long, but just took it on a weekend trip to the desert. Both on the way there, and the way back, the rack slid out of my hitch about an inch. I wailed on the securing bolt both times with plenty of torque. Granted, this was on really rocky roads, with four bikes, but not very confidence inspiring
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-20170204_131025.jpg  

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  62. #3262
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    Yep- I have a retention system, I'm just disheartened that I'll basically need to rely on it with some regularity. Again, not a big deal, and I can safeguard it, but for twice the cost of other 4-bike hitch racks (Yakima, Thule, Kuat, etc), it's just another small issue that I feel shouldn't exist.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  63. #3263
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    Quote Originally Posted by alshead View Post
    Yep- I have a retention system, I'm just disheartened that I'll basically need to rely on it with some regularity. Again, not a big deal, and I can safeguard it, but for twice the cost of other 4-bike hitch racks (Yakima, Thule, Kuat, etc), it's just another small issue that I feel shouldn't exist.
    You might have a defect somewhere... I actually have 3 1UP racks, the heavy duty, which I'm getting rid of as I no longer haul 4 bikes, and 2 of the the original racks and knocking hard on wood none have ever loosened on the road.

  64. #3264
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    Quote Originally Posted by edthesped View Post
    knocking hard on wood none have ever loosened on the road.
    These were pretty rough roads- lots of slow crawling and such. I haven't had a problem in 6 months of ownership until those roads, which I only get to a handful of times a year. I don't think it's a defect, just a design flaw.
    "There are two kinds of mountain bikers in the world: those who are faster than me, and me."

  65. #3265
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    Wow, I read more of this thread than I should have, but learned a lot. I just got a 2017 Subaru Outback and want to install a hitch and get a 1Up rack. I was thinking about a Draw-Tite hitch, although the end of the receiver appears to be 3" shy of the outside of the bumper. Does anyone know if the 1Up will fit OK like that on this car? If not, I suppose I could get an extender. I see that some people have the Curt hitch which sticks out about even with the bumper. Curt says that a stabilizing strap must be used for bike racks, which seems impractical. Does anyone have this setup with a Curt hitch and if so, are you using a strap? Thanks!

  66. #3266
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtbikologist View Post
    Wow, I read more of this thread than I should have, but learned a lot. I just got a 2017 Subaru Outback and want to install a hitch and get a 1Up rack. I was thinking about a Draw-Tite hitch, although the end of the receiver appears to be 3" shy of the outside of the bumper. Does anyone know if the 1Up will fit OK like that on this car? If not, I suppose I could get an extender. I see that some people have the Curt hitch which sticks out about even with the bumper. Curt says that a stabilizing strap must be used for bike racks, which seems impractical. Does anyone have this setup with a Curt hitch and if so, are you using a strap? Thanks!
    I have a 14 Outback with a Uhaul hitch; when they got done the end of the hitch was further under the bumper than I thought it would be (didn't measure how far) but my 1Up fits perfectly fine with no extender. As a matter of fact, I can insert it the recommended amount and there's still room to fold it up without touching the bumper.
    NTFTC

  67. #3267
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    Yeah, I don't think you will need an extender. I do, but my Jeep hitch is also pretty recessed and I have to clear a 35" spare tire hanging off the back. If you ever do need an extender, get the one 1UP sells. It tightens up very well with no sway.

  68. #3268
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtbikologist View Post
    Wow, I read more of this thread than I should have, but learned a lot. I just got a 2017 Subaru Outback and want to install a hitch and get a 1Up rack. I was thinking about a Draw-Tite hitch, although the end of the receiver appears to be 3" shy of the outside of the bumper. Does anyone know if the 1Up will fit OK like that on this car? If not, I suppose I could get an extender. I see that some people have the Curt hitch which sticks out about even with the bumper. Curt says that a stabilizing strap must be used for bike racks, which seems impractical. Does anyone have this setup with a Curt hitch and if so, are you using a strap? Thanks!
    My experience is similar to GWeed. I have 2011 Outback. Hidden Hitch that I bought online. It is a couple of inches at least underneath from end of bumper cover. I have no problem getting past the minimum insertion and being able to fold the rack upright. Given all the vehicles in the world, 1Up is likely being conservative, but with the Outback you should be able to recess the hitch underneath and still have plenty of clearance--YMMV.


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  69. #3269
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    We just put a trailer hitch & wiring on our 2014 Outback. Used local Torklift and the fit is great.
    https://torkliftcentral.com

    We also got the 2" heavy duty 1UP and can set it up to still open the rear hatch without any extenders. Trailer hitch tucks up nicely away and only the 2" sleeve is visible without kneeling down.

    Cheers,
    Mike

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    Thanks. How hard was the install? It looks scary from the pictures of so much of the back of the car removed. I'm mechanically capable but it's a new car and I don't want to create new problems.

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    I paid Torklift to install it and the wiring due to my shoulder and back problems.

    Suppose to be pretty easy and I think they have a video of one of the mechanics installing one on an Outback.

    Cheers,
    Mike

  72. #3272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtbikologist View Post
    Thanks. How hard was the install? It looks scary from the pictures of so much of the back of the car removed. I'm mechanically capable but it's a new car and I don't want to create new problems.
    It is way more easy to do it with a new car as stuff is not "stuck together" or embedded with crud.

    Go to the Subaru Outback Forum (not MTBR) and search for install hitch. The pictures and steps provided by others are incredibly helpful.

    If you do it yourself then you do it the "right" way and avoid drilling holes through the frame rails. If you take it to U-Haul or any place except Subaru dealer, they will drill holes through the frame rails because it is easy and saves them time, and time is money.

    To do the right way you take the rear light assemblies off, remove the rear bumper cover (tip: let car sit in warm sun for couple hours so the fiberglass or plastic bumper cover is soft and bendy), remove the rear bumper. Those steps are the easy parts.

    You fish the bolts through the frame rails, no drilling required.

    Now you get underneath and have to place the hitch in there around the exhaust. This is the hard part. You can drop the exhaust or remove. Most just drop by removing some holders, for a new car dropping should be fine. It is very tight working under there and you need to cut away part of the heat shield because it gets in the way of the hitch and the bolts, but the cutting is very easy.

    It took me 6 hours and I had help. But my car was 3 years old when I did it and nothing wanted to come off--just pulling off the bumper cover required a feat of strength.

    Still, this is a very easy job, and if you DIY then you can line the hitch up exactly the length that you want recessed from the rear bumper cover. Go for it!


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  73. #3273
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    here is a link to the outback forum and the hitch install: http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/...s/47218?page=1


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  74. #3274
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    I installed a TorkLift eco hitch on my 2016 Subaru STI and the process is very similar to the Outback. It's scary to take that much off the car, but its so much easier than it seems. I had never done anything like this with a vehicle before and was able to get it done (with someone to help) in just under 4 hours, start to finish.
    Alcohol may lead nowhere, but it sure is the scenic route!

  75. #3275
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    For the 1up owners out there....do the trays slide left/ride to help reduce bar/seat interference (specifically with a 3 bike setup). I know that each tray is elevated above the previous, so perhaps this is all that is needed to prevent interference. And lastly, anyone carry a 16" kids bike with adult bikes? Seems the bars from the 16" bike would be in the wheel of and adjacent adult bike.

  76. #3276
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    The trays don't slide. However you can move the bikes a fairly significant amount to the left or right on the trays. I've never carried a bike that small so I can't help with that.

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  77. #3277
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    For the 1up owners out there....do the trays slide left/ride to help reduce bar/seat interference (specifically with a 3 bike setup). I know that each tray is elevated above the previous, so perhaps this is all that is needed to prevent interference. And lastly, anyone carry a 16" kids bike with adult bikes? Seems the bars from the 16" bike would be in the wheel of and adjacent adult bike.
    You have a lot of side-to-side flexibility because the clamping arms do not need to be at a fixed specific angle to work properly. You just play with it some and you will see.

    I have hauled my son's 20" wheel bike with my my mountain bikes and it is just trial and error to find the right spot, it takes less than 5 minutes. A week ago I hauled our bikes 400 miles and when I put his bike on the brake lever made contact with my seat post. All I did was move my bike about an inch in the tray and the problem was solved--it is that easy. On small wheel bikes you will need to adjust the brace on the clamping arm. This may not make sense now but it will the first time you try to mount a 16-20" wheel bike. These braces are basically bolts that screw and unscrew into different positions on the clamping arms. You need to put them in a much lower position for smaller wheels otherwise the wheels will be too low to clamp. This takes about 10 minutes, maybe longer if you don't move to the right hole the first time.


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  78. #3278
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    Show your bike locking solution?

    I placed an order for a 1Up 2 bike rack and two extensions.

    I really like the rack locking approach that @canker has taken and may try to do the same.

    I'd be interested in seeing what bike locking solutions people are using and how convenient they are. My current rack is a Thule T2 and while the locks aren't amazing, they're really convenient and do what I expect: prevent a casual theft and provide a bit of piece of mind, warranted or not.

    I've read through this thread and read about using a U-Lock with cables, a Master Lock Python, the 1Up bolts, etc. They don't (yet) seem terribly convenient to me (and I imagine even less so to my wife). The nice thing about the built-in solutions is the lock is already there, out of the way when you don't need them, articulates out easily and goes right back when you're done.

    Does anyone have a convenient and (sufficiently) effective bike locking solution? Would love to see pictures!

  79. #3279
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    For the Bikes themselves, most of the times I am just transporting them back and forth between my house and where I'm riding and don't need a lock but when I do, I just use a long cable with a masterlock on it (wraped around bike(s) and rack). For the rack, I just purchased a small cable lock and wrap it around the rack and my receiver (takes about 1 min to put on after I install the rack, which takes about 30 sec). Sort of works like the u-bolt lock would but I don't need a key.

  80. #3280
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    @SkiNutIan Thanks. I don't typically use locks either, for the same reason. But went I do (or when my wife does), I'd like it not to be painful. Maybe it'll be less so than I'm imagining.

  81. #3281
    Happy Trails
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    I put a U-lock from the hitch bracket to the 1Up Rack, and I use a cable from the U-Lock to the bikes. I keep the lock and cable on the rack (but I'm fortunate and don't drive my 4WD Bike Hauler every day) I've even started locking my bikes IN THE GARAGE. I lock them all the time now, except when on the rack on short trips from the house to the trail.


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