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1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

937K views 4K replies 632 participants last post by  rlee 
#1 ·
Just received my 1up quick racks. I must say that pics do not do this rack justice! It is simply beautiful. Well engineered. I love looking at it. I also love the super low profile of the rack. With one rack on and folded up, I can still open the hatch. With two racks on and in the midway position i can open the hatch. Everything is as easy as the claims. I was able to install the rack and add on without reading the instructions in less than 3 minutes. The hitch connection is very secure. I think i'll put a lock on it still since i'm not fully sold that the hex key is theft proof and I don't want to take it on and off repeatedly.

Price wise it is a little on the pricey side, especially since i can get a really good discount on yakima and thule products.

I considered the following other racks before purchasing this for my 2010 Touareg TDI:
Kuat NV
Yakima Holdup
Thule T2
Saris Cycle On Pro
 
#946 ·
Ok so , this thing is really too easy to install lol, put on and off, and easily store :thumbsup: Once you have it locked in , its NOT going anywhere end of story . Love everything about this rack and so glad i didnt go with another brand .

Everything works very smoothly with this unit, and its well engineered . Here are a few pics i took to hold my bike, and my bike is extremely heavy and it wasnt budging . 40lbs +:D


 
#949 ·
Valid concern Cebu Boy. Hitch manufacturers use the same hitch for lots of different cars but not all cars can handle the same tongue weight. The manufacturer states this on it's website - just because the hitch itself can handle XXXlbs of tongue weight, and it fits on your car, doesn't mean that your car was designed and rated to handle XXXlbs of tongue weight. It's incumbent upon you to determine that.

My Forester itself is rated for 200lbs tongue weight while the hitch on it is a class III rated for 400lbs tongue weight. I would NEVER think about approaching 400lbs not because the hitch couldn't handle it but my car couldn't handle it. The hitch is WAY overkill but I wanted a 2" receiver and believe it or not it was cheaper than a class II 1 1/4".

Features of my hitch pulled off the hitch manufacturer's website:
- Round tube main body
- Gross Trailer Weights (GTW) & Tongue Weights (TW) vary by application.
- Never exceed vehicle weight rating.
- Hitch Ball & Ball Mount sold separately.
- Limited Lifetime Warranty to original purchaser.

I wouldn't worry about anything less than a 4 bike rack fully loaded with DH bikes on a car chassis (SUV or Truck would be no problem), practicality everything below that will be fine.
 
#953 ·
I know that it won't. A while back I had found one bolt on hitch for my car that was a 2" receiver but was still rated class II. I don't care about the towing capacity or the class of the hitch. The most I will ever use it for is 2 bikes on a rack as I already have a roof rack on my car. I am going for the low cost shuttle and road trip car.

Sent from my mobile telephone.
 
#955 ·
Color?

I'm thinking about ordering one of these racks soon, single quick rack, but can't decide between silver or black. I know the black is $50 more and I do like the looks of it, but how does the color hold up over time? It would seem like the various moving parts on the rack might cause the finish to wear off. The rack won't be sitting out in weather much as I'll it off after each ride. For what it's worth this is for a white Toyota Tacoma with factory tow hitch.
 
#956 ·
Black looks swank....

I'm thinking about ordering one of these racks soon, single quick rack, but can't decide between silver or black. I know the black is $50 more and I do like the looks of it, but how does the color hold up over time? It would seem like the various moving parts on the rack might cause the finish to wear off. The rack won't be sitting out in weather much as I'll it off after each ride. For what it's worth this is for a white Toyota Tacoma with factory tow hitch.
.. but silver hides the scratches and what will be the tire wear spots. I'm not sure how deep the anodizing goes (varies by mfgr) but it's usually only a couple microns thick.
 
#957 ·
Hey guys, after browsing this thread, I'm pretty much convinced that I'll be getting this rack. My only concern is, how about legibility/visibility of the license plate while on the tray up (no bikes on) position? I drive a Honda Element and found some pics online that with the 2 bike rack (the one that I want) it looks like it blocks the view. I understand that this probably will be the same with any rack/Honda Element scenario. So, is not so much about the rack itself, but since I'm pretty sure I'll get this one, I'll just ask here. Has anybody with obstructed view of the plate had any "encounters" with law enforcement. BTW, I'm in Texas, did some research, but couldn't find anything other than messing with the license plate itself. Thanks!
 
#964 ·
I've tried 2 or 3 hitch racks on my Honda Element and thus far I haven't been able to find one that is low enough to clear my tailgate when it's down (and the rack has no bikes on it).

Anyone running one of these on a Honda Element and can confirm?
It does work just fine. You do have to tilt the rack down but it clears with no problem that way.
 
#960 ·
Hey Acadian,

While doing my research I found two. I can't link yet, but here they are.

If you Google: Honda element 1up usa - you'll find one on the Element owners club.

If you Google: Kuat NV - you'll see the review from Cracks and Racks, were they used a Honda Element for their test.

Hope it helps.
 
#967 ·
Do you worry about flats?

I've had my 1up USA quik-rack double for about a year now, and love it. I'm about to order 2 more single add-ons, now that the kids are using full size bikes.
Do any of you worry about losing tire pressure when the bike is in the rack? I know, it seems unlikely, but the problem is that the consequences are quite dire. Maybe a slow leak after a ride, or a blow out... I think about it a bit more now, since I run tubeless, and just had a Rocket Ron blow off (ripped bead) while coasting on the road. If that ever happened while transporting in the rack, I'm afraid my bike would be all over the road.
Anyone else worry about that?
 
#968 ·
I've had my 1up USA quik-rack double for about a year now, and love it. I'm about to order 2 more single add-ons, now that the kids are using full size bikes.
Do any of you worry about losing tire pressure when the bike is in the rack? I know, it seems unlikely, but the problem is that the consequences are quite dire. Maybe a slow leak after a ride, or a blow out... I think about it a bit more now, since I run tubeless, and just had a Rocket Ron blow off (ripped bead) while coasting on the road. If that ever happened while transporting in the rack, I'm afraid my bike would be all over the road.
Anyone else worry about that?
It happened once to me and the bike was fine. I wouldn't worry about it.
 
#969 ·
After a recent ride one of the red handles on my 1up rack was so loose it was almost falling off. Both of the two bolts holding it on were extremely loose, and had I driven a few more miles it probably would have fallen off completely. I added some blue Loctite and hopefully that will hold, but when I get a chance I need to check all the bolts on it. Frustratingly, they seem to be standard (not metric), so I can't effectively use my milti-tool to work on it. I don't think I even own a set of non-metric allen wrenches.
 
#970 ·
...Frustratingly, they seem to be standard (not metric), so I can't effectively use my milti-tool to work on it. I don't think I even own a set of non-metric allen wrenches.
I had the same frustration! This is one of my few gripes because I've also had some nuts/bolts loosen up over time and I'm in the habit of checking them every so often. This usually means a run to Harbor Freight for a set of cheapo standard allens. Lame. :madman:
 
#974 ·
You guys are WAY over thinking this too much.. If your tires are going to be that flat , i am pretty positive you will notice it BEFORE it goes on the rack .

First of all you should always check your bike before and after every ride anyways.

Also, its not very hard to check the rack for any loose bolts or nuts , its pretty simple .
 
#975 ·
I'm having a hard time seeing the over-thinking here.

While you are checking over your bike, ensuring there are no slow leaks in the tires (how do you do that, bring a tub of water with you, only ride near creeks, maybe only go on short trips?), checking all the bolts on the rack, and making sure you don't make a mistake tightening down your bike, it takes me 1 second to put the twisty on and I'm ready to go.

Over-thinking or a time saving convenience - I'm going with the latter ;)
 
#976 ·
I can't speak for aedubber, but to me it's the profound paranoia the seems to pervade this thread that I would characterize as over-thinking. People are worrying too much. Besides, it isn't like that twist tie is actually going to hold anything on in a moment of catastrophic failure. But, if it helps someone feel better, then it's a good thing.
 
#979 ·
Even if the tires go flat, the bike may be lose in the rack, but it's not going to come out.

I did hit a major buckle in the pavement once at 80mph on a 2000 mile road trip with 4 bikes on the back (car probably was a few inches airborne) and a full load in the car. One wheel on the outermost bike did just out of the track but it could not get out of the arms. What I do now, just because I"m paranoid, is put a toe clip strap through one of the wheels and around the tray. There is now no way that the outermost bike can come out under almost any conditions and it's going to be damn near impossible for any of the inboard bikes to go anywhere.

Needless to say, after hitting that buckle at high speed, which had to be way, way out of spec for the rack, and having no problems; I can't imagine that this is anything worth worrying about. Especially for short trips on familiar roads.

J.
 
#980 ·
Even if the tires go flat, the bike may be lose in the rack, but it's not going to come out.

I did hit a major buckle in the pavement once at 80mph on a 2000 mile road trip with 4 bikes on the back (car probably was a few inches airborne) and a full load in the car. One wheel on the outermost bike did just out of the track but it could not get out of the arms. What I do now, just because I"m paranoid, is put a toe clip strap through one of the wheels and around the tray. There is now no way that the outermost bike can come out under almost any conditions and it's going to be damn near impossible for any of the inboard bikes to go anywhere.

Needless to say, after hitting that buckle at high speed, which had to be way, way out of spec for the rack, and having no problems; I can't imagine that this is anything worth worrying about. Especially for short trips on familiar roads.

J.
Holy carp! What kind of vehicle do you have that 4-bike rack hitched to? I'm surprised the hitch itself didn't bend or the car's unibody where the hitch mounts didn't suffer some serious bendage (if it was a car - if a truck no problem). I've heard of class II hitches getting bent from 4-bike racks bouncing around on Forest Service roads.
 
#981 ·
My other rack is a 4 bike Hollywood rack and after a 2000 mile, all on highway, road trip with 4 bikes I noticed the metal that goes into the hitch (not sure if there is a proper term for it) was deformed to the point that the rack leans slightly back. It's 2" steel square tubing with 1/4" thick walls, and it is visibly deformed now (looks like someone took the square cross section and squeezed it to a slight rectangle shape at the end). I was in the vehicle the whole time and there were some moderate bumps (all on highway), but nothing that made the vehicle airborne (though I have been airborne in it, and the traction control system doesn't like that). The hitch is fine, of course, because it's a truck, and the rack is still 100% useable.

On my car (which has the 1up rack), the bolt on hitch is mainly supported by the tow hook, which should be strong enough to take at least the weight of the car. There are also two points where it bolts to the frame, but I haven't looked at how sturdy the frame looks there. If I do hit a bump, because of the leverage of the rack off the back most of the weight goes on the tow hook, and the force on the frame from the rack is almost all upward force. I think I'd be more worried about bending the hitch than the frame.
 
#982 ·
To be sure - I've never heard of the frame bending, just the hitch. But, when I installed the hitch on my Forester I noticed that the "frame" metal that it bolts to is little more than some thin sheetmetal. Matter of fact, to install it you had to 'oblong' out two holes in the frame to get the hardware in. I started to do it with a round file until I realized how skimpy that metal was. I stopped and removed the bumper and put the h/w in from the back of the frame rails so I wouldn't have to round out those holes. Much, much less than the frame of my last vehicle (99 Dodge Ram 4X4 truck). The max tongue weight spec'd by Subaru is 200lbs but that is for a trailer and I bet 200lbs on a trailer with an axle acts MUCH different than the weight of a 4 bike rack with 4 DH bikes on it levered out a few feet from the hitch (especially when you hit big bumps)! Statics and all. I guess I'm kind of glad I only carry one bike most of the time and two rarely. My 1up can be configured for 1 bike so I'm not carrying the extra weight of an unused bike position. At any rate, I ain't gonna worry too much more about it.
 
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