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  1. #1001
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    Quote Originally Posted by aedubber View Post
    Also maybe this might help answer your wobble question too .. The rack is tight, it doesnt move once you tighten it up.. The wobble you might see or be talking about is cuz the bikes have forks that rotate.. So there will be some type of movement ...
    I have this rack and it is perfectly solid once you tighten it down. The rack is not moving. It's some play from the forks etc.

    This is hands down the best rack I've ever owned.
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  2. #1002
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    Wow, got my 1up today, amazing rack. The pic's online really do not do it justice! I wish it was easier to change for various tire sizes, but not a huge deal.

  3. #1003
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velosprocket View Post
    Wow, got my 1up today, amazing rack. The pic's online really do not do it justice! I wish it was easier to change for various tire sizes, but not a huge deal.
    I got mine today too. I couldn't believe how small the box was. This rack is beautiful.



  4. #1004
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    I really like the 1up rack and think it's much better in a lot of ways than a lot of the other racks I've tried. That being said, the latching mechanism is a bit of a pain in the butt, especially if you have more than one bike on there and you want to get into the trunk. Also, that safety knob thingy is not as user friendly as I'd like. I also just noticed today that you have to use a bit of finesse to make sure the arms don't touch the rotors, at least on my demo 8 with 203mm rotors. Like I said, I really like the rack and would buy it again. I've had it for about a year and these are the only issues I found.

  5. #1005
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    Quote Originally Posted by LowLow View Post
    I really like the 1up rack and think it's much better in a lot of ways than a lot of the other racks I've tried. That being said, the latching mechanism is a bit of a pain in the butt, especially if you have more than one bike on there and you want to get into the trunk. Also, that safety knob thingy is not as user friendly as I'd like. I also just noticed today that you have to use a bit of finesse to make sure the arms don't touch the rotors, at least on my demo 8 with 203mm rotors. Like I said, I really like the rack and would buy it again. I've had it for about a year and these are the only issues I found.
    1) Don't use the safety knob thing. In my experience it's useless.

    2) Move the arm connectors (that pinch the tire) down into a smaller notch. On my 26" bikes I use the 2nd hole from the top and that seems to work fine even on my DH bike. If the big rotor is still giving you issues then move the one for the front wheel down another position.

    3) Yes, pivoting the rack with 2+ bikes is a bit of a pain. Such is life. Luckily it's really fast & easy to remove the bikes and put them back on instead.

  6. #1006
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    Quote Originally Posted by Velosprocket View Post
    Wow, got my 1up today, amazing rack. The pic's online really do not do it justice! I wish it was easier to change for various tire sizes, but not a huge deal.
    Really? Do you mean between an XL 29er and a kid's 16" BMX? Because I've never had to adjust the position of the little tire nubbin things. I did notice that the newer arms have switched to a regular nut instead of a wing nut on the older style. The wing nut made changing position easier but looked ridiculous.

  7. #1007
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    Quote Originally Posted by rz79 View Post


    BOOOOYA!!!!! Such an awesome rack
    Were you at Palos today? Parked at Wolf Road Woods (end lot).

    Saw a 1UP 2-bike rack on a white Fusion.

    It only took 2 years to finally spot another one in the wild.
    konahonzo

  8. #1008
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    Yep! That was me! Best rack ever

  9. #1009
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    I like this rack but it looks like a heavy bike would put a lot of on/off pressure on the pivot point of the tire arms as you hit bumps and the bike sways back and forth. The tire arms act like a giant lever so any pressure at the top is magnified at the tire arm pivot point bolt. It seems that if anything would fatigue and break long term it would be the aluminum around the pivot point where the bolt attaches the tire arm to the tray (relatively thin aluminum further weakened by the drilling for the bolt). Also, I would like a through bolt at the receiver hitch. The cam ball might work great but it is comforting to know you have a through bolt especially if you are going on a 600+ mile trip. I would like to buy a rack like this but I would be scared to travel long distance with it.

    One question I would like answered is if the tire arms ratchet & lock into place using holes or if they use some time of friction design? If it is a friction design I would be worried about long term durability because anything based on friction will wear out and give much sooner than a ratcheting/locking design.

    I love the all metal construction and it looks like work of art. I just have some concerns about the engineering. Don't get me wrong Thule has its issues and so does Kuat.

  10. #1010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry288 View Post
    To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?

    Thanks!
    They fit fine. 2.4 Ardents on both bikes currently and last season I had huge Tioga 2.5 and Michelin 2.5, all fit and cleared without a problem, with room to spare.
    konahonzo

  11. #1011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    I like this rack but it looks like a heavy bike would put a lot of on/off pressure on the pivot point of the tire arms as you hit bumps and the bike sways back and forth. The tire arms act like a giant lever so any pressure at the top is magnified at the tire arm pivot point bolt. It seems that if anything would fatigue and break long term it would be the aluminum around the pivot point where the bolt attaches the tire arm to the tray (relatively thin aluminum further weakened by the drilling for the bolt). Also, I would like a through bolt at the receiver hitch. The cam ball might work great but it is comforting to know you have a through bolt especially if you are going on a 600+ mile trip. I would like to buy a rack like this but I would be scared to travel long distance with it.

    One question I would like answered is if the tire arms ratchet & lock into place using holes or if they use some time of friction design? If it is a friction design I would be worried about long term durability because anything based on friction will wear out and give much sooner than a ratcheting/locking design.

    I love the all metal construction and it looks like work of art. I just have some concerns about the engineering. Don't get me wrong Thule has its issues and so does Kuat.
    It is held by metal on metal friction. Based upon the usage of myself and others in real life, I wouldn't worry about it, or anything else you're worried about. I have put about 70k miles on mine have had only minor issues. It's a mechanical device so failure is always an option. The nice thing is the post-purchase support that 1up offers. I need to send my back for service and they have UPS'd me a new shipping box for free-and, they're paying for the shipping to get the rack back to them. And obviously, they're doing the service for free, too.

    There is almost no strain on the point where the tire arm bolts to the tray, because, as you astutely observed, it is a pivot. It is designed to move. All of the strain is transmitted to the locking arm. This is the part that uses friction to stay shut. I have kept an eye on mine as it is an obvious failure point and there has been virtually no wear. If there is, the locking bar is replaceable.

    As for the hitch pin:

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerry288
    To the current 1up rack owners: how well do larger (2.3-2.5) tires fit?

    Thanks!
    Read the thread. This very question was asked 5 days ago and answered with a great picture. In fact, this question is verbatim...

  12. #1012
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    I noticed that the expanding ball tightener loosened a bit the other day. There was a little bit of wobble and it looks like the bar had slid out of the hitch by a bit less than a 1/4" (I have one of those collars on it to mark the position). Has anyone experienced this? I take it there's no way to prevent it other than to check it every so often?

    One other caution: The other day I pulled up to a light and a guy in the car behind me told me that the bikes had fallen. I got out and the rack had dropped to the down position as I came to a stop at the light. I must not have clicked it firmly into the horizontal position. So, the moral of the story is always be careful to click it into the right position and be sure to tighten the collar that secures the trays in place.

  13. #1013
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    I've been going back and forth between the Serpa and the 1up, but after reading most of this thread, I finally decided to pull the trigger last night and purchase the 1up in black. I only carry one bike, so the one tray option works for me. It would be nice if they had a safety pin for the hitch in case the ball tightener failed or became loose as sbermhb mentioned above.

  14. #1014
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    Engineer your own rack , problem solved .. Nothing is perfect in this world, you take a chance with life everyday when you wake up. Just sayin ....


    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    I like this rack but it looks like a heavy bike would put a lot of on/off pressure on the pivot point of the tire arms as you hit bumps and the bike sways back and forth. The tire arms act like a giant lever so any pressure at the top is magnified at the tire arm pivot point bolt. It seems that if anything would fatigue and break long term it would be the aluminum around the pivot point where the bolt attaches the tire arm to the tray (relatively thin aluminum further weakened by the drilling for the bolt). Also, I would like a through bolt at the receiver hitch. The cam ball might work great but it is comforting to know you have a through bolt especially if you are going on a 600+ mile trip. I would like to buy a rack like this but I would be scared to travel long distance with it.

    One question I would like answered is if the tire arms ratchet & lock into place using holes or if they use some time of friction design? If it is a friction design I would be worried about long term durability because anything based on friction will wear out and give much sooner than a ratcheting/locking design.

    I love the all metal construction and it looks like work of art. I just have some concerns about the engineering. Don't get me wrong Thule has its issues and so does Kuat.

  15. #1015
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbermhb View Post
    I noticed that the expanding ball tightener loosened a bit the other day. There was a little bit of wobble and it looks like the bar had slid out of the hitch by a bit less than a 1/4" (I have one of those collars on it to mark the position). Has anyone experienced this? I take it there's no way to prevent it other than to check it every so often?

    One other caution: The other day I pulled up to a light and a guy in the car behind me told me that the bikes had fallen. I got out and the rack had dropped to the down position as I came to a stop at the light. I must not have clicked it firmly into the horizontal position. So, the moral of the story is always be careful to click it into the right position and be sure to tighten the collar that secures the trays in place.
    I check mine all the time. Recently, mine developed a similar problem. I washed out the hitch and the ball system and it seemed to stop loosening up. Nevertheless, I'm sending mine back to 1up for them to take a look at.

    My rack, with two bikes loaded, never backed out, even while driving down 4wd trails. But it is disconcerting.

    As for your second problem, I think that you didn't have the locking bar in place. I've never had what you're describing happen except when I wasn't paying attention to the locking bar actually locking into place.

  16. #1016
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    My 1Up rack never loosens. I always check the hitch receiver for debris before installing it. After about 100 miles, I check it again and I've never had it get loose.

    J.

  17. #1017
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    Anybody have any pics of the 2" / 2-bike rack off the vehicle and folded for storage? I've looked through this thread but did not notice any.

    Also, how would the 1.25" version handle relatively smooth logging road (some potholes to negotiate) loaded up with 2, or even 3 DH bikes (say 40lb each). Would the 2" exhibit significantly less flex in this scenario?

    Thanks in advance.

  18. #1018
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnJ80 View Post
    My 1Up rack never loosens. I always check the hitch receiver for debris before installing it. After about 100 miles, I check it again and I've never had it get loose.

    J.
    I've never had mine loosen, either and I'm much less detail oriented. In fact, it was just habit that made me grab the rack after lunch while getting into the truck. Either way, it kinda bummed me out. There wasn't any debris in there and the ball seemed fine. Nevertheless, the best thing about my 1up is that I've never had to be worried about it. This is a bump in the road for sure but now I get to try out 1up's warranty, FWIW. Oh well. I'll report back.

    Quote Originally Posted by donkeyboy
    ...how would the 1.25" version handle relatively smooth logging road (some potholes to negotiate) loaded up with 2, or even 3 DH bikes (say 40lb each). Would the 2" exhibit significantly less flex in this scenario?
    I have the 1.25" rack and until recently, never have had an issue, esp with flex. That being said, if you don't need the smaller receiver size, get the larger rack. I would. Why not?

  19. #1019
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaeckerX1 View Post
    The reasons to not use a hitch pin are simple. You don't have to worry about getting your rack lined up perfectly and dealing with getting a hitch pin through a little hole. You can even adjust the rack backwards a bit to clear a bumper (as long as you have minimum insertion). Also, the expander bolt removes shake/wobble of rack. The expander bolt is more than enough to keep the rack on. Find someone who has one of these racks and try pulling it out after it's been tightened. I know you won't be able to. There is never at any point enough force exerted on the rack in the horizontal direction away from the rack to pull the rack out when fully tightened. I don't care if you're knocking the rack for legitimate reasons, or if you prefer another design, but your posts show extreme ignorance and undue paranoia. Your post about loads makes no sense. There's side to side loads and vertical loads. There's never any significant force directly pulling the rack out and backwards away from the vehicle, unless you have it on the back of McLaren F1 accelerating at breakneck speed. Even then, I'm sure the expander bolt would hold fast.

    If your post about loads was true, when I forgot to tighten it, my rack would have come out when I was driving because it was just sitting in there, no hitch pin or tension.


    And how can you post a PERSONAL REVIEW, when you don't even own the product?
    I think the concern about not having a hitch pin is a legitimate question. Not being able to pull the carrier straight out of the hitch while sitting in your driveway is not really the issue. The issue is what constant vibration in the hitch will do to the ball mechanism over hundreds/thousands of miles. The Thule T2 succumbed to a vibration issue in several well documented instances where the friction fit sliding bars that hold the bikes slowly worked their way off the end of the main carrier spar dumping bikes on the highway. Thule ended up putting a small screw on the end of the main spar to keep this from happening again. The issue with friction fit devices is that they require you to apply torque to a fastener. The performance of that device depends on you remembering to tighten the device and tighten it to a specified torque. The ball mechanism has no visual indication to tell you that it is tightened, not tightened, or not tightened enough. Furthermore, not having a documented case of the 1UP failing is no indication that it will not fail at some point in the future. 1UP has only sold a fraction of the racks that Thule has and we only recently heard about the recall on Thule T2 racks. Incorporating a hitch pin is a fail safe and a very good fail safe. The only alternative I see is using a U-Lock through the chain holes on the hitch and around the carrier, which several people seem to have already incorporated into their setup. If people are using U-Locks as a safety measure then there are more than a few people with concerns. You cannot eliminate every potential issue but I have three concerns with this rack, which have already been addressed by some mtbr members in the pictures I see posted. Don't get me wrong I love this rack but I think it could be improved upon just like anything else.

    1) Friction ball mechanism (fail safe would be to install a U-Lock around hitch chain holes and carrier)
    2) Friction sliding mechanism to lock arms (fail safe would be to put a locking bar through the lower unused holes in the arms so if the arms move outward they will be stopped by the rim of the bike.)
    3) Fatigue at the aluminum arms where it is drilled out and bolted to the tray due to bikes swaying back and forth (I have read at least one report of the arms developing stress fractures on another forum but the user was doing some overly aggressive driving and on this thread one user posted that the bolt on the arm support bar loosened and snapped. Also, I believe 1UP switched from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt. This was done for ease of use in checking/tightening the bolts, but it was most likely done to strengthen the connection due to the leverage from a bike on the arms.)

  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by aedubber View Post
    Engineer your own rack , problem solved .. Nothing is perfect in this world, you take a chance with life everyday when you wake up. Just sayin ....
    Yes this is true, but unfortunately I don't have the money to prototype my own rack so instead I critique the racks I would like to buy and see if anyone can put my fears to rest, counter my inquires, and answer my questions, which you obviously have no wish to do so why even respond? The reason I ask these questions is because I want someone to respond and tell me I am wrong and give me a good reason why I am wrong instead of just saying "it works fine" and "don't worry" or "engineer your own rack". I can understand people being defensive about something they purchased when someone brings up questions about reliability it is only natural. Nothing is perfect but we should all strive for perfection.

  21. #1021
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    It is held by metal on metal friction. Based upon the usage of myself and others in real life, I wouldn't worry about it, or anything else you're worried about. I have put about 70k miles on mine have had only minor issues. It's a mechanical device so failure is always an option. The nice thing is the post-purchase support that 1up offers. I need to send my back for service and they have UPS'd me a new shipping box for free-and, they're paying for the shipping to get the rack back to them. And obviously, they're doing the service for free, too.

    There is almost no strain on the point where the tire arm bolts to the tray, because, as you astutely observed, it is a pivot. It is designed to move. All of the strain is transmitted to the locking arm. This is the part that uses friction to stay shut. I have kept an eye on mine as it is an obvious failure point and there has been virtually no wear. If there is, the locking bar is replaceable.

    As for the hitch pin:



    Read the thread. This very question was asked 5 days ago and answered with a great picture. In fact, this question is verbatim...
    So your rack moved in the hitch? Also, there is a load on the pivot at the tray but not in the folding direction of the arms. The load is from front to back as the weight of the bike shifts during acceleration/deceleration/wind trying to twist/rack the arms around the bolt running through the tray. They did switch from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt which helps the situation greatly (prevents failure of the thin aluminum in the hollow tray) but it does not account for the fatigue in the aluminum in the arm where it is drilled for the through bolt. The arms should be reinforced at the bottom where they are drilled for the through bolt since this is a stress area.

  22. #1022
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    I drive down smooth highways (Northern California...WAY Northern... to Montana, and on another trip past Amarillo, Texas), with no problems for the rack or bike(s) at all.

    Never loosened up anywhere... and I do check these things out.

    I have put hundreds of miles on dirt roads with the requisite potholes and washboard surfaces... again... no problems at all with the rack.

    Just saying that this rack has performed extremely well for me over probably 20K miles now.
    Mine is a couple of years old by now.

  23. #1023
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    Yes this is true, but unfortunately I don't have the money to prototype my own rack so instead I critique the racks I would like to buy and see if anyone can put my fears to rest, counter my inquires, and answer my questions, which you obviously have no wish to do so why even respond? The reason I ask these questions is because I want someone to respond and tell me I am wrong and give me a good reason why I am wrong instead of just saying "it works fine" and "don't worry" or "engineer your own rack". I can understand people being defensive about something they purchased when someone brings up questions about reliability it is only natural. Nothing is perfect but we should all strive for perfection.
    Is that what you want? Or do you want to engage in an interwebz debate about a product you don't own and have no experience with in order to "prove" some sort of point (or perhaps to show how smart you are)?

    Most of us are not engineers. Therefore, you'll need to rely on anecdotal evidence from regular bikers who own the product. I suspect you're not the type of person whose inquiries or questions can be adequately countered or answered, so this is ultimately a no-win situation.

    For what it's worth, I owned this rack and it was flawless. You can go back in this thread and find my initial impressions. I sold it to a riding buddy a couple months ago and he's in love with it. I missed it so much, I just bought another one ... which gave me the opportunity to get the anodized black one that wasn't available when I bought my first one.

  24. #1024
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    Yes this is true, but unfortunately I don't have the money to prototype my own rack so instead I critique the racks I would like to buy and see if anyone can put my fears to rest, counter my inquires, and answer my questions, which you obviously have no wish to do so why even respond? The reason I ask these questions is because I want someone to respond and tell me I am wrong and give me a good reason why I am wrong instead of just saying "it works fine" and "don't worry" or "engineer your own rack". I can understand people being defensive about something they purchased when someone brings up questions about reliability it is only natural. Nothing is perfect but we should all strive for perfection.

    Nobody is defensive. It is you being offensive.

    It works. It has distinct advantages over everything else in the market. Nobody owes you any "proof". End of story.

  25. #1025
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post

    Most of us are not engineers.
    I am.

  26. #1026
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    So your rack moved in the hitch? Also, there is a load on the pivot at the tray but not in the folding direction of the arms. The load is from front to back as the weight of the bike shifts during acceleration/deceleration/wind trying to twist/rack the arms around the bolt running through the tray. They did switch from using two bolts to connect the arms to the tray to using a single through bolt which helps the situation greatly (prevents failure of the thin aluminum in the hollow tray) but it does not account for the fatigue in the aluminum in the arm where it is drilled for the through bolt. The arms should be reinforced at the bottom where they are drilled for the through bolt since this is a stress area.
    The rack didn't move out of the hitch.

    I'm still not sure what you're getting at, however. This is a mechanical device so it can certainly fail. Maybe you should send your feedback to 1up? It's not like any one of us can change anything for you. Obviously, none of us have an issue because we 1) own the rack and 2) still are using it without major problems.

  27. #1027
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    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    The rack didn't move out of the hitch.

    I'm still not sure what you're getting at, however. This is a mechanical device so it can certainly fail. Maybe you should send your feedback to 1up? It's not like any one of us can change anything for you. Obviously, none of us have an issue because we 1) own the rack and 2) still are using it without major problems.
    We should also write concerned letter to all bike companies - because handlebars are holding on by purely friction and a couple of pinch bolts. They can rotate and you will fall at high speed.

  28. #1028
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    Lmao !! Asking questions like we trying to sell the rack to him , contact 1up and ask them why they haven't hired you to design and engineer their flaws ..

    This is a review thread for people that own the rack , not a tea time and critique session .. We all shared our thoughts and reviews as owners , so take it how you want .

  29. #1029
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    OK, two weeks in (6 trips with it) and I finally found a minor gripe about the 1UP Rack: sharp edges. I've managed to scrape and scratch myself pretty well a few times folding the rack up and removing it from the car. I think I'll take a small sanding block and some fine sandpaper to some of the edges of doom.
    Anyone else done this, what grit did you use?

    Otherwise: I love it.

  30. #1030
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    Some of the questions here seem really silly to me, for all you people worried about the 1 up falling out of the receiver why not just take a cable lock wrap it around the 1 up and thru the safty chain hole on your receiver and drive in peace without all these silly worries!
    “An adventure is misery and discomfort, relived in the safety of reminiscence.” Marco Polo

  31. #1031
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    That's exactly what I did! I was never worried about it falling out but hey better safe than sorry. I bought an inexpensive mini-Ulock for $15. Cheap insurance. Love the 1Up

  32. #1032
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    I plan to do the same when mine comes in as well. Hopefully, yesterday was the last ride using the trunk rack.

  33. #1033
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    I have some Cam buckle straps that I had made previously, they are about 12-16" long and I use one looped through the chain loops and around the rack. If the ball does ever fail, the rack will not go anywhere.


    Edit: Sorry, did not realize this was my first post

  34. #1034
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    Is there anyone that has this rack on a Toyota FJ Cruiser? I want to know if the rack will clear the spar tire. I will need the rack to extend 8" min to clear the tire. I really don't want to use a adapter, they move around too much.
    I drive around 50 miles a week on some pretty rough dirt and rock roads to get to where I ride (Gooseberry Mesa, Little Creek...) and I would like to know if this rack can take it.

  35. #1035
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rock dude View Post
    Is there anyone that has this rack on a Toyota FJ Cruiser? I want to know if the rack will clear the spar tire. I will need the rack to extend 8" min to clear the tire. I really don't want to use a adapter, they move around too much.
    I drive around 50 miles a week on some pretty rough dirt and rock roads to get to where I ride (Gooseberry Mesa, Little Creek...) and I would like to know if this rack can take it.
    1upusa Hitch Mount Bike Rack FJ Review - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum

  36. #1036
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    That looks good, I just wounder if the rack will still fold up. It looks close.

  37. #1037
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    [QUOTE=donkeyboy;9381329]Anybody have any pics of the 2" / 2-bike rack off the vehicle and folded for storage? I've looked through this thread but did not notice any.QUOTE]

    Here are a few pics of the 2"- 2 bike rack folded up. In one pic you can see two boxes, the larger is from the 2 bike rack, the smaller has a 1 bike attachment in it.
    Other pics are with rack in back of my Pilot.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-photo.jpg  


  38. #1038
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    My second 1Up. First one is still being used by a buddy. I do like the black. Was interested to see they've combined the 1 1/4 and 2-inch hitches with a bolt-on piece. Definitely prefer the older solid 2-inch hitch mount. In practice, though, it didn't move anymore than my older one.


    IMG_0195 by dbozman1173, on Flickr

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blatant View Post
    My second 1Up. First one is still being used by a buddy. I do like the black. Was interested to see they've combined the 1 1/4 and 2-inch hitches with a bolt-on piece. Definitely prefer the older solid 2-inch hitch mount. In practice, though, it didn't move anymore than my older one.
    I noticed you have a blue C-Guide on your bike. I just added one to mine but I m not sure how much it helps. How about yours, are you happy with it?

    Btw congrats on the rack, I d love to swap out my current 1up for one of those.

  40. #1040
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    The C-Guide is fine. I didn't have many options on the Mach 5.7, given no ISCG mounts and a pressfit BB.

  41. #1041
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    Anyone have current pictures of a new 2012 rack with a 29er on board? I just heard they lengthened the arms in the latest racks to better accommodate 29er bikes. I want to see how far the arms come up on the tires. I have been reading and researching a lot and I may spring for it. My biggest worry was only having the ball mechanism to hold the rack in the hitch but some of you are using a U-lock as a fail safe so that should work fine for me too. Also, for those of you with the black rack how has the anodizing held up? Thank you, to all those that replied with your mileage and reliability reports. Those statements go a long way in my eyes as verification of a products sturdiness and real world usefulness. I know my engineering questions seemed offensive but I critically analyze anything expensive I plan to purchase. I want my money to be well spent.

  42. #1042
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blk02 View Post
    Anyone have current pictures of a new 2012 rack with a 29er on board? I just heard they lengthened the arms in the latest racks to better accommodate 29er bikes. I want to see how far the arms come up on the tires. I have been reading and researching a lot and I may spring for it. My biggest worry was only having the ball mechanism to hold the rack in the hitch but some of you are using a U-lock as a fail safe so that should work fine for me too. Also, for those of you with the black rack how has the anodizing held up? Thank you, to all those that replied with your mileage and reliability reports. Those statements go a long way in my eyes as verification of a products sturdiness and real world usefulness. I know my engineering questions seemed offensive but I critically analyze anything expensive I plan to purchase. I want my money to be well spent.
    Dude, there is a picture of the exact thing you're looking for just a few posts up from here, post #1008.

    How far the arms come up on the tires is also a function of the bike's geometry, specifically the wheelbase.

    Obviously, I don't speak for everyone, but I didn't find your questions offensive, just kinda pointless As someone else mentioned, it's not like we can do anything about 1up's engineering shortcomings.

    Anyhow, I can't imagine that you wouldn't like it. If you don't, just take advantage of their offer to take it back. You don't even have to pay for return shipping.

  43. #1043
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    Ok you need to seriously READ some of this thread please , but anyways ill answer your 29er question . My friend has a Trek Rumblefish 29er in LARGE with 2.4 Schwalbe HDs front and back on it, and its PERFECT ...

    His tire profile is about as wide as my downhill tires .. The 29er fits and stays perfectly on the stand, mind you he also has his mounted via roof rack style on his bmw .

    You need to stop thinking about the ball .. You have to realize the way the rack was made with the weight countering the rack ... You literally need to have the rack perfectly straight to pull it out without any type of friction or force from the hitch .. The weight of the rack offsets its angle when its in the hitch so there is some force applied inside the hitch .. Hopefully you can kinda understand what im trying to say ...

  44. #1044
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    Jeep Wrangler JKU

    I mounted ours up today. As others have said it's aluminum sculpture.

    To be honest it's heavier than I expected, but it is solid.

    My tail lights are too obscured, so I'm going to have to find some kind of strap on lights...

    More pics here: 2011 Detonator Yellow Unlimited - Page 3 - Jeep Wrangler Forum

    But here's one with the family set-up with a 29er, 26er, 24er and 20er

    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  45. #1045
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    Nice setup J Westy!!

    My 1up rack arrived today and I must say, it's impressive!! The black looks great on the back of my civic. I would recommend it to anyone looking for a hitch mount rack.

  46. #1046
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    Quote Originally Posted by allensta View Post
    Here are a few pics of the 2"- 2 bike rack folded up...
    Thanks for that. Just what I was looking for. Looks so much more compact than the other companies' offerings.

    Quote Originally Posted by racerwad View Post
    ...if you don't need the smaller receiver size, get the larger rack. I would. Why not?
    Two reasons.
    1. The rack will often be used with one bike. It would be nice to just have to handle the single tray rack in these instances (the rack will be installed/uninstalled for each use)

    2. My wife will need to install/uninstall the rack as needed, and she's a little worried that the extra weight of the 2" / 2-bike version might be too much for her. Don't want an unwieldy bike rack to discourage her from getting out for a ride.

    The above reasons aside, I am leaning toward the 2" version. I think the 'offroad' sturdiness of it outweighs the cons. Any other opinions, especially on reason #2 above?

  47. #1047
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    It seems like your reasons are so specific, it would be hard for anyone else but yourself to answer. I don't take off the add-on, even though I don't usually ride with someone else. So, I would assume the difference in weight between a 1.25" rack and 2" (each with two trays) is negligible. Shoot, it might even be a draw since the 2" probably has a few less nuts and bolts holding it all together.

    I don't know you, but I know people, and I doubt that the rack will be taken on/off with each use. That's based only on my own experience

    I don't think that there is any legitimate difference in off-road "sturdiness" between the two.

  48. #1048
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    I emailed 1Up about what type of anodizing they use on their racks. The two most common types in the U.S. are Sulfuric Acid Anodizing Type 2 "Soft/Standard" and Type 3 "Hard Anodized/Hardcoat". I am hoping that their racks are Type 3 because the anodizing is much thicker and it will have increased wear resistance. Also, I asked them if they use any type of special sealer to protect the black dye from U.V. exposure. I have seen many black anodized parts turn purple or grey after several years in the sun.

    I will let you know what I find out.

    Update:
    I just found out they use Type 2 Anodizing "Soft/Standard" and they use a 6061-T6 Aluminum Alloy to make the bicycle racks. They could not tell me if they use a special UV resistant sealer for the black dye, but they did mention that the black anodizing will fade. 6061-T6 is the same aluminum alloy they use to make rock climbing cams, so it is strong. Also, take note that Type 3 anodizing can cause aluminum alloy to have reduced fatigue resistance since the aluminum oxide layer is much thicker, much harder, and more brittle than Type 2.

    6061-T6 is also used for these items:
    6061 is commonly used for structural components, screw machine parts, frames, brackets, jigs, fixtures, base plates, machine parts, couplings, hydraulic valve bodies, valves and valves parts, fuse parts, gears and shafts, worm gears, pistons, rectifier parts, fasteners, hardware, truck and marine components, marine fittings and hardware, electrical fittings and connectors, hinge pins, magneto parts, brake pistons, hydraulic pistons, appliance fittings, camera lens mounts, bike frames, etc. 6061 is used for heavy duty structures requiring good strength-to-weight ratio with good corrosion resistance. 6061 is easily cold worked and formed in the annealed condition. Cutting, stamping, bending, spinning, deep drawing, drilling, tapping, etc. are all readily accomplished using standard methods

    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia:
    6061 is a precipitation hardening aluminium alloy, containing magnesium and silicon as its major alloying elements. Originally called "Alloy 61S" it was developed in 1935.[1] It has good mechanical properties and exhibits good weldability. It is one of the most common alloys of aluminium for general purpose use. It is commonly available in pre-tempered grades such as 6061-O (solutionized) and tempered grades such as 6061-T6 (solutionized and artificially aged) and 6061-T651 (solutionized, stress-relieved stretched and artificially aged).

    Hardness Comparison Chart
    (Rockwell Surface Hardness Rating)

    Stainless Steel
    Low 50
    High 72
    Unanodized Aluminum
    Low 38
    High 44
    Type II Anodized Aluminum
    Low 48
    High 55
    Type III Anodized Aluminum
    Low 60
    High 70
    Last edited by Blk02; 06-12-2012 at 08:54 AM.

  49. #1049
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    Got mine today ;)

    Here's some pictures of my 1UP rack with a large 29er mounted.
    I got the 2" -2 bike rack.
    It is indeed a very heavy feeling rack, just as heavy as all of the top brands.
    It folds up like a transformer though making it much smaller and easy to handle.
    I agree with everyone else that it is much better in person, very well built and very strong/beefy feeling.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-001.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-003.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-004.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-005.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-006.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-007.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-1upusa-008.jpg  

    Attached Images Attached Images  

  50. #1050
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    Type 3 anodizing is for wear applications (e.g. fork stanchions) and actually has lower corrosion resistance than Type 2 since it has unsealed pores. So, Type 2 would be the "normal" choice for something like a bike rack.
    whatever...

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