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  1. #1
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    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?

    I'm thinking of moving the headset spacer from the top of the head tube to the bottom in order to slacken the head angle a bit.

    Does anyone have any experience doing this? I've removed the stem to solve an opi creaking issue, but did not attempt to move the spacer.

    Can anyone comment on the handling change, is it worth while moving the spacer to make it a little less nervous on fast rocky descents?

    Thanks,
    Steve
    12 Scalpel 2
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    11 EMD 9 - Retired

  2. #2
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    I have. Sorry, i can't comment on the handling change. I did it straight away. There's no way that i'd want the bike to handle any quicker than it does now.

    it's kind of a pain in the ass to get out. I tried a headset extractor. that didn't work. the lip on the spacer wasn't big enough. I ended up using a screw driver and a hammer...and being very careful. other than that, everything went smoothly.
    Last edited by packfill; 08-22-2012 at 05:18 PM.

  3. #3
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    bump...anyone tried this

  4. #4
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    I did end up moving the spacer to the bottom. It slacked the head angle a tiny bit, but enough to feel a difference. I prefer it this way over the original setup.



    Quote Originally Posted by rixsurfer View Post
    bump...anyone tried this
    12 Scalpel 2
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  5. #5
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    I just picked up a Scalpel Alloy 3 and took it for the first ride today. I think I want to move the spacer to try out the slacker head angle. The ride was a bit twitchy working my way down NJs rocky, leafy descents. Any place I can find a procedure?

    ac

  6. #6
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    I have done this and it's great, makes the bike slightly lighter in the front end and more stable on the downs. Highly recommended!

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Hyde View Post
    I have done this and it's great, makes the bike slightly lighter in the front end and more stable on the downs. Highly recommended!
    Which headset style do you have? My 3 has an SI, so it looks like I need to get "Ernie" and pound the headset tube down and out?

    ac

  8. #8
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    Can you post a pic, I would like to get better idea of what your talking about???

  9. #9
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    I have SI headset, I got the local shop to change it because the spacer is a tight fit so yeah, you may need ernie!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr_Hyde View Post
    I have SI headset, I got the local shop to change it because the spacer is a tight fit so yeah, you may need ernie!
    Think you could post a pic of the finished product?

    ac

  11. #11
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    I have order scalpel 2012 1, and it should arrived next month. I ask from my LBS if is it possible to move "spacer" down, under tube and he didnt knew if it is possible, he even call to cannondale and they didnt verified it can be done? i am confused. I thought, that its design to do that.
    Cannondale Scalpel 29'er Carbon 2 Review - BikeRadar

    theres they said.

    Some riders might find the stock 71-degree head tube angle to be a bit on the steep side, however. When mixed with the stiff frame and relatively short 444mm chain stays it yields very quick reflexes. Thankfully, though, buyers can swap the short aluminum head tube extension from top to bottom to kick the angles back a hair (which we did happily).


  12. #12
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    Anyone? I took a look at this and it looks like the bearings need to come out to swap the spacer? It looks like the "spacer" is actually the upper bearing holder?

    ac

  13. #13
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    The bearings are the spacer. You have to pop out both the top and bottom bearings, then press them back in.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad5080 View Post
    The bearings are the spacer. You have to pop out both the top and bottom bearings, then press them back in.
    Any tips? Is there a special tool?

    ac

  15. #15
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    This is right from the manual/supplement:

    IntegRated HeadSHok SpaceR - KP213/
    HeadShok spacer (KP213/) is intended for use with Cannondale Leftys. It may be installed on top of the
    headtube. On top, the frame geometry (listed) would be unchanged. If the spacer is located at the bottom of the
    headtube, the bottom bracket height would be slightly lower and the headtube angle would be slackened.


    http://media.cannondale.com/media/ma...29R_EN_SCR.pdf
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by KirtM View Post
    This is right from the manual/supplement:

    IntegRated HeadSHok SpaceR - KP213/
    HeadShok spacer (KP213/) is intended for use with Cannondale Leftys. It may be installed on top of the
    headtube. On top, the frame geometry (listed) would be unchanged. If the spacer is located at the bottom of the
    headtube, the bottom bracket height would be slightly lower and the headtube angle would be slackened.


    http://media.cannondale.com/media/ma...29R_EN_SCR.pdf
    Yeah, we understand that. That is why this thread exists. It isn't a matter of what it does, it is a matter of HOW to actually do it.

    ac

  17. #17
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    i got the bike, and spacer is top of the headtube, like ac asked, what kind of tool it needs?
    I asked LBS do it before shipment , but they forgot to do it.
    LBS is confirmed, that it is possible to do.

  18. #18
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    I work at a bike shop, and it is definitely possible to do. You do need special tools to remove the bearings and also to press them back into the head tube. This removes the bearings Park Tool Co. RT-1 : Head Cup Remover : Headset and this tool presses them back in Park Tool Co. HHP-2 : Bearing Cup Press : Headset. The bearing press is certainly not cheap and would be less expensive to have the shop do it for you.

    As far as tips go, grease the outer edge of the bearing cup before pressing them into place. Also grease the stem portion that is inserted into the frame. They tend to click and creak when dry. Try not to get your handlebars turned around while they hang from the bike, that can be a tangled mess. Also remember to route both your rear brake and shifter housing between the lefty and frame before putting the lefty back on the bike.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chad5080 View Post
    I work at a bike shop, and it is definitely possible to do. You do need special tools to remove the bearings and also to press them back into the head tube. This removes the bearings Park Tool Co. RT-1 : Head Cup Remover : Headset and this tool presses them back in Park Tool Co. HHP-2 : Bearing Cup Press : Headset. The bearing press is certainly not cheap and would be less expensive to have the shop do it for you.

    As far as tips go, grease the outer edge of the bearing cup before pressing them into place. Also grease the stem portion that is inserted into the frame. They tend to click and creak when dry. Try not to get your handlebars turned around while they hang from the bike, that can be a tangled mess. Also remember to route both your rear brake and shifter housing between the lefty and frame before putting the lefty back on the bike.
    What would be a fair price to pay a shop?

    ac

  20. #20
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    I would guess around $30. It's not a quick job, but its not difficult, the only problem is the tools required aren't what many people have at home.

  21. #21
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    Thanks for reply Chad5080

    Only that, isn't right tool this??
    Park Tool Co. RT-2 : Head Cup Remover- Oversized : Headset
    Because size of the headset.

    Quote Originally Posted by Chad5080 View Post
    I work at a bike shop, and it is definitely possible to do. You do need special tools to remove the bearings and also to press them back into the head tube. This removes the bearings Park Tool Co. RT-1 : Head Cup Remover : Headset and this tool presses them back in Park Tool Co. HHP-2 : Bearing Cup Press : Headset. The bearing press is certainly not cheap and would be less expensive to have the shop do it for you.

    As far as tips go, grease the outer edge of the bearing cup before pressing them into place. Also grease the stem portion that is inserted into the frame. They tend to click and creak when dry. Try not to get your handlebars turned around while they hang from the bike, that can be a tangled mess. Also remember to route both your rear brake and shifter housing between the lefty and frame before putting the lefty back on the bike.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by KirtM View Post
    If the spacer is located at the bottom of the
    headtube, the bottom bracket height would be slightly lower and the headtube angle would be slackened.[/I]
    The BB would be slightly higher, wouldn't it?

  23. #23
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    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by smilinsteve View Post
    The BB would be slightly higher, wouldn't it?

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by xluossa View Post
    Yes
    Just confirming, so Cannondale's documentation is wrong?

  25. #25
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    Yes, the oversized one is correct that you linked. Sorry about that

  26. #26
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    how i did it

    Because my headset was creaking i started to disassemble the headset an tried to move the spacer

    first remove front brake and wheel

    open the 2 clamping bolts that fix the lefty to the headset
    only open do not remove them completly

    unscrew the opi steerer by using the bottom bracket shimano tool

  27. #27
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    unscrewing was hard because the contact points wasnt greased

    next thing is to remove the opi stem , also very tight

    i used a nut from a ratchet
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-26-14.32.45.jpg  


  28. #28
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    with the wood i hammered the stem out
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-25-21.53.01.jpg  

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-25-21.54.42.jpg  

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-25-22.37.10.jpg  


  29. #29
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    i removed the lower bearing by using a drift punch the piece of wood as a hammer
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-26-14.13.03.jpg  


  30. #30
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    This is the tool made to push out the spacer , a piece of tube , pressed in the vise
    until it has the same diameter as the lip of the spacer
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-26-14.30.16.jpg  

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-2013-04-26-14.34.11.jpg  


  31. #31
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    Then i opened the seal of the creaking/gritty bearing , cleaned with oil spray and relubed

    I assemble the bike when my tourge wrench has arrived

  32. #32
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    Now a question

    do the bearings have a direction ? or can i put them in the cups both ways?????

  33. #33
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    To simplify removal, you can easily remove the stem without wood or a special tool. Just unthread the steertube completely, then rethread it roughly 5-6 threads. Then with a rubber mallet, tap the steertube up until it is flush. Unthread it, and at this point the stem should come out by hand. It did take a few sizeable hits to get it out, but the threads were unaffected - just make sure that it is threaded in properly and more than just one or two threads!
    www.bikeride.ca
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  34. #34
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    I'm interested in the before/after pic's and ride performance...not really the how to???

  35. #35
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    Also a good way !!

    Quote Originally Posted by oilerfan30 View Post
    To simplify removal, you can easily remove the stem without wood or a special tool. Just unthread the steertube completely, then rethread it roughly 5-6 threads. Then with a rubber mallet, tap the steertube up until it is flush. Unthread it, and at this point the stem should come out by hand. It did take a few sizeable hits to get it out, but the threads were unaffected - just make sure that it is threaded in properly and more than just one or two threads!

  36. #36
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    The bike feels much better on the downs now , easier to control

    have not hit the pedals on the ground since the conversion

    The extrem straight- lined uphill characteristics , gone lost a little bit
    before it was a more straight lined uphill , only pedaling and the bike rode like on rails uphill


    Maybe this all is not only because of the changes in geometry , but also in shorter distance from Bottom bracket to handle bar which fits now better to my body

    Quote Originally Posted by zenkem View Post
    I'm interested in the before/after pic's and ride performance...not really the how to???

  37. #37
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    If I understand you correctly you now have more confidence on the downs and feel like you lost a little on the ups?

    Personally, I like the way the Scalpel feels on both the ups and downs but when I get to the really steep descents I feel as though I'm too far over the handle bars which is all alright if I remember to tell myself to get my arsh off the back of the seat.

    How do you feel about the steep technical descents now that you have made this change???

  38. #38
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    Before , i had the impression that when i rode uphill i dont had to care about steering.
    Sitting on the bike , pedaling , knowing the direction is forward,uphill
    This is what Pro Riders maybe prefer , what i am not , they can push their endless power in the bike an the bike points uphill
    This impression is not so strong now.

    It is more funny going down and play now , its now more like an enduro , this is also noticeable

    No problems on descents...

    i think if you want better descent qualities you should make the conversion because of the slackened headangle and the still not so high bb , the feeling to be too far over the handle bars should be reduced



    Quote Originally Posted by zenkem View Post
    If I understand you correctly you now have more confidence on the downs and feel like you lost a little on the ups?

    Personally, I like the way the Scalpel feels on both the ups and downs but when I get to the really steep descents I feel as though I'm too far over the handle bars which is all alright if I remember to tell myself to get my arsh off the back of the seat.

    How do you feel about the steep technical descents now that you have made this change???

  39. #39
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    headtube spacer

    I understand that you can use the Park Tool headcup remover to take the bearings out...but there is no lip for the tool to contact the spacer....so please, did somebody figure out a legitimate way to get the spacer out so it can be pressed back in to the bottom of the headtube? If you knock the top bearing out, is the revelation on how to remove the spacer somehow revealed?

    Thanks.
    Last edited by atribecalledmike; 05-28-2013 at 05:47 AM.

  40. #40
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    I've got a 2013 Scalp 2 and just did it a week ago - still in the getting to know you period. I also removed one spacer at the same time so I've got two variables going. For me, it seemed to take the edginess off the steering which I like. I did notice a difference in handling, needed to make slight adjustments in body position. For me, the change wasn't a big one, just a slight tweak which settled things down. It really comes down to personal preference...if you feel like the bike steers too quick, try it. If you don't like it, it can be easily reversed. A savvy shop can make the switch in no time.

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by atribecalledmike View Post
    I understand that you can use the Park Tool headcup remover to take the bearings out...but there is no lip for the tool to contact the spacer....so please, did somebody figure out a legitimate way to get the spacer out so it can be pressed back in to the bottom of the headtube? If you knock the top bearing out, is the revelation on how to remove the spacer somehow revealed?

    Thanks.
    Same problem here. I pulled out the top bearing and lower bearing without an issue. Now I am stumped as to how to get the spacer itself out. There is no lip to push/pull on.

    Any tips?

    ac

  42. #42
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    Well, I got it.

    I wound up using flat tip screwdrivers to pry the spacer up and off. Wound up marring up some of the paint, but there was no lip inside to push against.

    The last remaining qustion: does the rubber "seal" stay at the top, or does it follow the spacer to the bottom of the stem also?

    ac

  43. #43
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    I have been searching but not found an answer, is this also possible on a carbon flash? I would love to slack out the front a bit.
    2012 Carbon Flash
    2012 Epic
    2011 Anthem X

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    Did anyone awnser as to where the rubber seal goes , top or bottom ? Before i embark on this journey, could someone advise, where does the top bearing sit, is it inside the spacer ? and why do they need to be taken out and swapped, aren't the top and bottom bearings identical ?

  45. #45
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    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?

    Rubber seal is on top. The top bearing is pressed into the spacer, which is pressed into the frame. I swapped mine a few weeks ago. Took about 15 minutes to do. I kept the top bearing on top and pressed the bottom one into the spacer, after it was installed on the bike.

    Btw, I love the small difference. Feels a lot better!

  46. #46
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    my riding buddy has a medium sized scalpel 29er and it came with the spacer on top
    mine is a large and it came with the spacer underneath.
    we just recently noticed the difference when i changed the headset bearings

  47. #47
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    Spacer on the bottom.

    Here's a pic of mine. Noticeable difference, the closest I could get with a measurement of the HA is 70.0-70.3 with my electronic level.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-img_0914.jpg  

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-img_0915.jpg  

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-img_0916.jpg  


  48. #48
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    I am curious how the bike feels when bunny hopping now with the higher BB. Here is a great article on the conversion by the way. With pretty pictures : )

    TEST - Cannondale Scalpel 29 Carbon 2: l'Xc il punto di partenza - MtbCult.it
    Larry Miller-
    www.laxon3.tumblr.com

  49. #49
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    I'm looking at picking up my first Lefty on Saturday. I'm coming off a Giant Reign 0 to a 2015 Scalpel Carbon 3 and have been concerned with the aggressive stance. This thread is exactly what I was looking for. Is it possible on the 2015 Carbon as well as the alloy?

  50. #50
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    I got the specs from canondale.

    4mm higher bottom bracket.

    Head and seat angles slacken by .5 degrees.

    Doesn't sound like much but it's a very noticeable difference riding.

    ac

  51. #51
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    Gonna ask the lbs I'm buying it at if they'll do the conversion for me. Now I'm really excited about the purchase.

  52. #52
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    Ok. So I rode the new bike yesterday with the spacer where the shop puts it. Coming off of a Giant Reign, it was definitely a didn't ride. Brought the bike back where I bought it with a list of adjustments and they said they'd move the spacer for me...no problem. Excited to see the difference.

  53. #53
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    I moved the spacer to the bottom and love the change. Highly recommend moving it if your bike is your "do everything" bike.

  54. #54
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    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-screenshot_2015-10-02-13-57-49.jpgWho's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-20150930_114703.jpgThe lbs called me and asked which spacer to move? Said there were two black spacers (one on each side of the red ring) and another spacer below that. Which one or ones did you move?

  55. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIREFTR View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Screenshot_2015-10-02-13-57-49.jpg 
Views:	181 
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ID:	1019624Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20150930_114703.jpg 
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ID:	1019625The lbs called me and asked which spacer to move? Said there were two black spacers (one on each side of the red ring) and another spacer below that. Which one or ones did you move?
    Are they serious? Are they a Cannondale dealer?

    They need to move the BIG spacer at the bottom of the stack you posted.

  56. #56
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    Bike America brother. I told him the big one and showed him the pics on page 2 of this post. I pick it up tomorrow after work.

  57. #57
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    Anyone changed the stem length or bar width to go along with moving the spacer?

    ac

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    Ok so the proverb says if I remember correctly "if you want something done right, do it yourself". Ok and if you can't do it yourself, stay at the shop while they do it for you. Lol. Asked for the spacer to be moved. Called to confirm which spacer I wanted moved. Went today to pic it up and this is what I got. I'm gonna give it a go and see what it feels like. Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-20151003_124355.jpg

  59. #59
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    Well, you got the right thing done.

    ac

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    On the very bottom of the pic above, the lbs moved those two little spacers as well. They used to be where the red ring is on top of the fork. Shouldn't he have left those two little ones on top? By moving them down, he kept the same racing profile. Or am I crazy?

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by FIREFTR View Post
    On the very bottom of the pic above, the lbs moved those two little spacers as well. They used to be where the red ring is on top of the fork. Shouldn't he have left those two little ones on top? By moving them down, he kept the same racing profile. Or am I crazy?
    I'm no expert but I think those just adjust stem height and not head angle.

    He did lower the stem by doing what he did but the head angle is still more slack.

  62. #62
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    Thanks for the quick response. Heading out now before the sun is too high. She how she rides.

  63. #63
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    Hey FIREFTR, is your shop going to be liable when your front tire stops dead when the lefty is under full compression? Get rid of those two spacers at the very bottom of your steer tube, under the bottom fork clamp immediately and screw that steerer all the way in.
    Last edited by bikesinmud; 10-04-2015 at 10:25 AM. Reason: Spelling

  64. #64
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    Lol. Went to another shop next to the trail I ride and had them put the little spacers back up top.

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    Scroll up to #47 in this thread, you kinda get the idea if the cables weren't in the way.

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    Bro. I showed them these pics before I left. Don't know why they moved the other two.

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    You should never trust your bike shop again. They are idiots. Hope you get it sorted soon.

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    Ok. WOW!!! I mean seriously holy Sh!t. I did get everything put where they belong and was able to ride this morning. WHAT A DIFFERENCE! ! If anyone is considering buying this bike, they should get this done ASAP. I was able to throw the bike into corners at speed, no hesitations. Twitchy wasn't a factor, climbing or decending. Absolutely in love with the ride. LBS also gave me some crazy numbers on psi for the suspension. Thank god I raced mx in my younger years and have some brain cells left. Very very thankful for this thread.

    "It's nice to have someone do things for you, but you'll never have the respect or the pride in the ride unless you do it yourself."

  69. #69
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    Spacer relocated during recall fix

    I took the opportunity to have the head tube spacer moved when I took the bike in for the OPI stem recall fix.

    Wow! The steering difference was quite noticeable, especially when descending down rough and rooty sections.
    I rode the MoCo Epic in Maryland yesterday... 69 miles... must have been 60+ miles of single-track. The bike was far more comfortable for this XCM format.

    I wish I had it done sooner, but very thankful this thread encouraged me to do it now!

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-img_3401.jpg

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-img_3402.jpg

    _Matt

    P.S. The velcro strap is there to "train" the brake and shock lines into staying up against the frame.
    I just wanna ride...

  70. #70
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    Matt. Glad it worked out. 60+ miles. Holy crap. Jealous. Beautiful bike. Ride hard!!!!

  71. #71
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    Had shop relocate space to bottom of head tube. Compared to baseline (top of head tube) I find the bike to be more stable specially down hill. I am glad CDale built this option onto the frame.

    As far as nimbleness, to me, the bike feels just as nimble. Haven't done clock runs but I think this lower position is a keeper. Makes the head angle very close to that of the habit

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    Quote Originally Posted by avc8130 View Post
    Same problem here. I pulled out the top bearing and lower bearing without an issue. Now I am stumped as to how to get the spacer itself out. There is no lip to push/pull on.

    Any tips?

    ac
    Hi, I know this is an old thread, but I bought a 2nd hand Scalpel 2 Carbon 2012 a couple of months ago, and this week just asked by local bike shop (Cannondale dealer) to move the spacer for me. They said that they disassembled it but the spacer was glued in.

    I was wondering if this is possible, or perhaps it is just that the spacer is difficult to remove. Are there any tips or tools on removing the spacer itself?

    Thanks!

  73. #73
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    I ride with several people who followed my lead and had the spacer moved. It should be pressed in not glued. If it is in fact glued on your bike, possible whomever built it glued it but not supposed to be.

  74. #74
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    I own a Carbon 3. Shop said It was tight fit. They were able to remove from top and install on bottom.

    Not sure what tool they used. I am guessing a proper headset removal tool should work.

    U could contact cannondale directly and ask for recommended tool.

  75. #75
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    spacer

    moved mine from the top to bottom, am very curious about the bike handling now...will have to wait though as winter arrived to Central Europe today with 30 cm fresh snow in the Slovak mountains
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-20160427_171855.jpg  

    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-20160427_171957.jpg  


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    Nicely done. enjoy.

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    After the spacer if flipped what is the new head tube angle?
    Anyone know?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bay1 View Post
    After the spacer if flipped what is the new head tube angle?
    Anyone know?
    The stock HTA is 71.2 degrees. For every 10mm of additional axle to crown or fork length you lose half a degree.
    After putting the spacer on the bottom the new HTA is 70.7 degrees. With that you will also have a taller bottom bracket height and longer wheel base.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-img_1873.jpg  


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    Tks for that. I did mine a few months back but had no idea what the new HTA was.
    I really like it, especially with a shorter stem and wider bars, wish I'd done it 3 years ago.

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    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-image.jpgWho's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-image.jpg

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    Been following this thread for months now and despite reading that many have moved the big spacer to the bottom, no one has written on how to remove it from the frame. Well someone said he used a screw driver and scratched his frame.

    Still waiting on how to remove this spacer.

    thanks.

  82. #82
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    I used a round piece of wood, used it like a punch in conjunction with a rubber hammer to lightly drive out the spacer from the underside

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    Who's moved the Scalpel 29er headset spacer from the top to the bottom?-image.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bay1 View Post
    I used a round piece of wood, used it like a punch in conjunction with a rubber hammer to lightly drive out the spacer from the underside
    But I understand that the spacer has no inner lip inside. If that is true, then how did you get the wooden dowel to connect to the spacer in order to push it out?

    .

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    As I recall Their is a slight lip I got the corner of the wooden punch onto. Don't lever with a screw driver whatever ya do

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bay1 View Post
    As I recall Their is a slight lip I got the corner of the wooden punch onto. Don't lever with a screw driver whatever ya do
    What this guy said.

    There is enough material there to get a punch onto. If you have a non OPI stem you can use the steerer tube to work it back and forth to loosen it from its seat. Don't over do it it though and hopefully you won't even need to do it.

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    Done mine. I agree downhills are much more enjoyable.

    On steep climbs the front wheels wanders, you have to keep your head up and concentrate a bit more. Previously on steep climbs you could just pedal and the bike went straight.

    The uphill trade-off is definitely worth it for the improvement going downhill in my opinion.

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    So I have removed the lefty and the bottom bearing and even the top bearing. But I can't find a lip on the spacer to bump it out. What am I missing? The spacer is totally flush with little lip on the frame. It's an alloy frame.

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