Had shop relocate space to bottom of head tube. Compared to baseline (top of head tube) I find the bike to be more stable specially down hill. I am glad CDale built this option onto the frame.
As far as nimbleness, to me, the bike feels just as nimble. Haven't done clock runs but I think this lower position is a keeper. Makes the head angle very close to that of the habit
I have. Sorry, i can't comment on the handling change. I did it straight away. There's no way that i'd want the bike to handle any quicker than it does now.
it's kind of a pain in the ass to get out. I tried a headset extractor. that didn't work. the lip on the spacer wasn't big enough. I ended up using a screw driver and a hammer...and being very careful. other than that, everything went smoothly.
I did end up moving the spacer to the bottom. It slacked the head angle a tiny bit, but enough to feel a difference. I prefer it this way over the original setup.
I just picked up a Scalpel Alloy 3 and took it for the first ride today. I think I want to move the spacer to try out the slacker head angle. The ride was a bit twitchy working my way down NJs rocky, leafy descents. Any place I can find a procedure?
I have order scalpel 2012 1, and it should arrived next month. I ask from my LBS if is it possible to move "spacer" down, under tube and he didnt knew if it is possible, he even call to cannondale and they didnt verified it can be done? i am confused. I thought, that its design to do that. Cannondale Scalpel 29'er Carbon 2 Review - BikeRadar
theres they said.
Some riders might find the stock 71-degree head tube angle to be a bit on the steep side, however. When mixed with the stiff frame and relatively short 444mm chain stays it yields very quick reflexes. Thankfully, though, buyers can swap the short aluminum head tube extension from top to bottom to kick the angles back a hair (which we did happily).
Anyone? I took a look at this and it looks like the bearings need to come out to swap the spacer? It looks like the "spacer" is actually the upper bearing holder?
IntegRated HeadSHok SpaceR - KP213/
HeadShok spacer (KP213/) is intended for use with Cannondale Leftys. It may be installed on top of the
headtube. On top, the frame geometry (listed) would be unchanged. If the spacer is located at the bottom of the
headtube, the bottom bracket height would be slightly lower and the headtube angle would be slackened.
i got the bike, and spacer is top of the headtube, like ac asked, what kind of tool it needs?
I asked LBS do it before shipment , but they forgot to do it. :madman:
LBS is confirmed, that it is possible to do.
I work at a bike shop, and it is definitely possible to do. You do need special tools to remove the bearings and also to press them back into the head tube. This removes the bearings Park Tool Co. » RT-1 : Head Cup Remover : Headset and this tool presses them back in Park Tool Co. » HHP-2 : Bearing Cup Press : Headset. The bearing press is certainly not cheap and would be less expensive to have the shop do it for you.
As far as tips go, grease the outer edge of the bearing cup before pressing them into place. Also grease the stem portion that is inserted into the frame. They tend to click and creak when dry. Try not to get your handlebars turned around while they hang from the bike, that can be a tangled mess. Also remember to route both your rear brake and shifter housing between the lefty and frame before putting the lefty back on the bike.
To simplify removal, you can easily remove the stem without wood or a special tool. Just unthread the steertube completely, then rethread it roughly 5-6 threads. Then with a rubber mallet, tap the steertube up until it is flush. Unthread it, and at this point the stem should come out by hand. It did take a few sizeable hits to get it out, but the threads were unaffected - just make sure that it is threaded in properly and more than just one or two threads!
The bike feels much better on the downs now , easier to control
have not hit the pedals on the ground since the conversion
The extrem straight- lined uphill characteristics , gone lost a little bit
before it was a more straight lined uphill , only pedaling and the bike rode like on rails uphill
Maybe this all is not only because of the changes in geometry , but also in shorter distance from Bottom bracket to handle bar which fits now better to my body
If I understand you correctly you now have more confidence on the downs and feel like you lost a little on the ups?
Personally, I like the way the Scalpel feels on both the ups and downs but when I get to the really steep descents I feel as though I'm too far over the handle bars which is all alright if I remember to tell myself to get my arsh off the back of the seat.
How do you feel about the steep technical descents now that you have made this change???
Before , i had the impression that when i rode uphill i dont had to care about steering.
Sitting on the bike , pedaling , knowing the direction is forward,uphill
This is what Pro Riders maybe prefer , what i am not , they can push their endless power in the bike an the bike points uphill
This impression is not so strong now.
It is more funny going down and play now , its now more like an enduro , this is also noticeable
No problems on descents...
i think if you want better descent qualities you should make the conversion because of the slackened headangle and the still not so high bb , the feeling to be too far over the handle bars should be reduced
If I understand you correctly you now have more confidence on the downs and feel like you lost a little on the ups?
Personally, I like the way the Scalpel feels on both the ups and downs but when I get to the really steep descents I feel as though I'm too far over the handle bars which is all alright if I remember to tell myself to get my arsh off the back of the seat.
How do you feel about the steep technical descents now that you have made this change???
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