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  1. #1
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    I posted this also in the Shock forum, but doing so here to ask fellow Trigger 29er owners. My 1 year old Fox DYAD was having the problems outlined in the following threads:

    fox DYAD RT2 problem!!!!!

    Fox dyad rt2 problems


    So after trying the various tips recommended in the first thread with no luck, I sent it in to Fox. I've re-installed it, and the "gap" issue is gone, however the initial shock stroke (in either long or short travel modes) feels notchy. As if the shock shaft encounters some resistance when your first push down on the bike.

    Once the shock has gotten past that initial "notch", the rest of the travel (e.g. while riding) feels fine. I don't recall having this when the shock was new, but then again I wasn't focusing on it at the time.

    Do any of you Trigger 29er owners have this "notch-in-initial-shock- stroke" issue and is it normal?

    If not, I may send it back to Fox since the recent repair should still be covered.

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Hi Bugeye
    Mine is being looked at by Mojo who are the Fox people in the uk. When returned I will let you know how it feels.

  3. #3
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Had a very interesting conversation with a technician at mojo here in the UK. Basically he bench tested my shock and checked for leaked etc. Couldn't find a problem. Also he said that the piston is now going in all the way. He has replaced the bushings etc that were worn (which could have caused the creaking noises). I am waiting to put it on to see if it is fine.

    He mentioned that all Dyads are not fully serviceable and that they can rebuild anything in the shock and doesn't understand where the myth has come from about some seals not being serviceable. He also mentioned that so ermines the piston just doesn't go all the way in on some shocks even after a total rebuild and providing the sag is correct and it bench tests ok then there is not too much to worry about.

  4. #4
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    Contact Fox and get it sent back, the shock should not be notchy at all at any stage in the travel.

    I sent my Dyad to Mojo UK in Jan this year for a service and when it was returned it was making a knocking sound as it rebounded, i sent it back to them and they replaced the whole unit under warranty. So it is not unheard of that they are returned not functioning correctly after being serviced..

  5. #5
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Chick0, mine is back tomorrow so I will check it out. Interestingly Mojo said they have now in stock replacement shocks from Fox should they need them. One can only think the only reason they would need them was if they can't be repaired and they had problems in the past. This is of course only speculation.

  6. #6
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    Thanks guys, I'm going to call Fox tomorrow. Will report back with the outcome.

  7. #7
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    Here is a quick video of the knocking sound the shock was making after it was returned from its first service.

    I will add that the Fox service centre Mojo in the UK pick up and replaced the whole shock in super fast time (48 hours).





    For some reason the in-bedded video is on its side, to see it the correct way click the link below
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4gnaW7QWTx8

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bugeye View Post
    Thanks guys, I'm going to call Fox tomorrow. Will report back with the outcome.
    Spoke to Fox today. Fox agreed notchy isn't normal, but suggested the seals may be a tad dry since the shock hasn't been cycled much yet. Since trails around here have been too soggy to ride, I haven't ridden the bike yet any further than around my driveway. Once I put some real dirt miles on it, I'll recheck. The overhauled shock is under 90 day warranty, so I can always send it in for a rebuild/replace. Will keep you posted. Note: mine doesn't make the noise in chick0's vid.

  9. #9
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Ok, my shock is back. Pumped up with the piston firmly wedged into the cylinder. With great difficulty I put the shock back on the bike because the shock eye to eye with the piston fully retracted is less than the gap left when the linkages are fully expanded. 2 people had to push the linkages to be able to get the shock mount bolts through the wholes.
    My point is that the eye to eye distance is so incredibly tight that the piston will inevitably pull out a mm or 2 to be able to fit. Once the linkages get a bit of trail use with grit, sand, mud etc then this distance will naturally get bigger due to lack of smooth running In the linkages.

    Mine now runs smooth and noise free , but the piston is sticking out a mm or 2 because that was the only way I could get it in the gap.

  10. #10
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    That's weird.
    I've sent had my Dyad serviced recently and when I had to put it back in, it was pretty much effortless.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgs010 View Post
    Ok, my shock is back. Pumped up with the piston firmly wedged into the cylinder. With great difficulty I put the shock back on the bike because the shock eye to eye with the piston fully retracted is less than the gap left when the linkages are fully expanded. 2 people had to push the linkages to be able to get the shock mount bolts through the wholes.
    My point is that the eye to eye distance is so incredibly tight that the piston will inevitably pull out a mm or 2 to be able to fit. Once the linkages get a bit of trail use with grit, sand, mud etc then this distance will naturally get bigger due to lack of smooth running In the linkages.

    Mine now runs smooth and noise free , but the piston is sticking out a mm or 2 because that was the only way I could get it in the gap.
    Sounds strange, are all your suspension pivots lined up correctly? It might be worth stripping down and rebuilding the whole rear end of bike.

  12. #12
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    ^^^agree....Morgs, I think you have to re-look at your linkages...I installed mine super easily, no gaps, no pushing down on the bike....

  13. #13
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question



    Have checked out my linkages and it seems that the only thing stopping the linkages from folding back on themselves and hitting the seat tube is this stopper coming from the rear stay and hitting the bottom bracket. Mine is touching with the piston sticking out maybe 2mm. When I put the shock back on I couldn't increase the eye to eye distance because it seemed this stopper was stopping it.

  14. #14
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question


    This is what it looks like now, but off the frame there is no piston sticking out.

  15. #15
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Yep but when unweighted the dyad doesn't show piston. I know this because it was fine when off the bike. The eye to eye is very tight on my bike which causes the piston to pop out

  16. #16
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    So, you're saying that if you were to let all the air from the negative Dyad' chamber, it would still look like this?
    If so, it's possible that the bike is not built properly. Check the rear pivots and try to find a cause.

  17. #17
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Interestingly when all the air is let out of the negative the piston is all the way in. I run the shock 290, 245. As soon as I get to around 200 on the negative, the piston just shows it's head. Once the shock is taken off the bike it looks fine which is what the Fox service guys based their assessment on.

  18. #18
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    It's possible that you're losing a lot more pressure in the positive compared to the negative chamber after removing the pump, so the actual positive air pressure is lower than you believe it is, so "proper" negative pressure causes the piston to extend a bit.

    Try pumping the positive about 60PSI more than the chart shows as that's about as much as you lose after removing the pump.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marin (CRO) View Post
    It's possible that you're losing a lot more pressure in the positive compared to the negative chamber after removing the pump, so the actual positive air pressure is lower than you believe it is, so "proper" negative pressure causes the piston to extend a bit.

    Try pumping the positive about 60PSI more than the chart shows as that's about as much as you lose after removing the pump.
    Yes, this a common problem due the high pressures, air escapes with more force. I found that using the Scott high pressure shock pump helps this a bit, as it has a twin release mechanism.

  20. #20
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Have decided to use it over Easter and see what happens. Checked the pressures today. Positive 20 psi down which equates to the usual Cannondale pump connection loss, however negative wax 50psi down from usual.
    I have the fault registered with fox even though they say they couldn't find anything wrong so if problem continues I will insist on them having another's look or new shock

  21. #21
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    So I took the bike/rebuilt shock for its first ride today. About 7 miles before I switched to my hardtail for the remainder of the ride. Shock is now making a "clunk" or knocking noise (no gap though). Going to call Fox again.

  22. #22
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Update on my Dyad. Some how, the piston seems to have moved back to its proper position ie not sticking out. This happened after 2 fairly hard rides. Shock pressures seem fine too. The only difference seems to be the shock feels softer and goes through travel more easily. I have increased pressures which are still way below Fox recommendations and it is fine. Fingers crossed

  23. #23
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Have been using my trigger for 3-4 rides now. Still working fine with the piston finding the correct position. I am now fairly certain that it was the linkages that wS stopping the piston going all the way in. It was incredibly tight re-fitting the shock as previously mentioned and as such the piston came out. Once I had ridden the bike once I gave it a super clean and slight lube around the linkages and it settled down with the piston going back in. I reckon there was some muck stopping the smooth operation of the linkages which may have equated to the tapping noise the shock was making when the piston was sticking out pre service.

  24. #24
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    For those who've sent their DYAD RT2 back to Fox...question

    Quote Originally Posted by Morgs010 View Post


    Have checked out my linkages and it seems that the only thing stopping the linkages from folding back on themselves and hitting the seat tube is this stopper coming from the rear stay and hitting the bottom bracket. Mine is touching with the piston sticking out maybe 2mm. When I put the shock back on I couldn't increase the eye to eye distance because it seemed this stopper was stopping it.
    I have finally got to the bottom of the mystery as to why the piston was staying stuck out and why it has suddenly started sitting perfectly again. Basically the stopper that seemed to be stopping the suspension fully extending (photographed earlier in this post) has now fallen off allowing the piston to retract. Clearly it wasn't fitted correctly. I will now need to get a replacement.
    See photo

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Marin (CRO) View Post
    It's possible that you're losing a lot more pressure in the positive compared to the negative chamber after removing the pump, so the actual positive air pressure is lower than you believe it is, so "proper" negative pressure causes the piston to extend a bit.

    Try pumping the positive about 60PSI more than the chart shows as that's about as much as you lose after removing the pump.
    According to my LBS, this is incorrect. The air you hear escaping is just the air that is left in the pump. As you unscrew the pump, the shraeder valve closes, sealing and not allowing any air out of the shock then as you continue unscrewing the pump the air is eventually released from the pump. If you start trying to add air to compensate for what you think your losing, you won't know where your really at. The reason the pressures are lower when you re-check is that when you screw the pump back on the air in the shock escapes back into the pump.

    I have a Jekyll and have gone thru all this before. (ie shaft sticking out) The other thing I found helps with getting the right pressures is makeing sure you screw the pump on tight every time you pump it up. Not sure why but it makes a difference.

    Anytime the the ratio of + to - pressure is high on the Negative side, the shaft will want to extend.

    Peace.

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