Results 1 to 36 of 36
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641

    Stop the creaking

    OK, my 2013 Trigger 29er-1, aluminum frame bike is driving me nuts with creaking. I have taken almost the entire bike apart, cleaned and lubed it and it still creaks. It does it more when pedaling which lead me to believe it was the cranks or BB but I. Disassembled and rebuilt the whole thing.

    Has any one had issues with the swing arm bearings creaking?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation: deapee's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Posts
    73
    You've gotta find out what's creaking. Take a stethoscope or something that will act as one and get it near the pivot points and bearings.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by deapee View Post
    You've gotta find out what's creaking. Take a stethoscope or something that will act as one and get it near the pivot points and bearings.
    Yeah, the thing is I can't get it to do it much unless I'm riding it.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: supersedona's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Posts
    646
    Sometimes seat rails can creak within the seat itself. Isolate the seat contact when tracing the crankarm noise by standing and placing the crank horizontal. Bounce it one way then the other a few times. No noise when doing that, arms are probably not the problem. Seat contact involved, no noise, not the prob. Next would be chain or chainrings if it is only under higher power.

    If it is a suspension bearing creaking, make sure to use a loctite bearing setting adhesive to retain the movement of the cartridge or else it can lead to the mount hole exaggerating and becoming unusable. A tell-tale would be a white or black powder around the offending cartridge or bushing.
    '93 Giant Sedona ATX custom
    '93 Giant Sedona AtX aero-edition
    '73 Schwinn Suburban
    '95 Fuji Suncrest

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by supersedona View Post
    Sometimes seat rails can creak within the seat itself. Isolate the seat contact when tracing the crankarm noise by standing and placing the crank horizontal. Bounce it one way then the other a few times. No noise when doing that, arms are probably not the problem. Seat contact involved, no noise, not the prob. Next would be chain or chainrings if it is only under higher power.

    If it is a suspension bearing creaking, make sure to use a loctite bearing setting adhesive to retain the movement of the cartridge or else it can lead to the mount hole exaggerating and becoming unusable. A tell-tale would be a white or black powder around the offending cartridge or bushing.
    Ruled out the seat, the crank and the fork. It does it on. Bumps and under hard torque. I am thinking swing arm suspension bearings. The bike has very low miles so I am surprised ifit's that.

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Centurion_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    732
    I had a road bike that creaked where the seat rails met the clamp. Wrapped the rails with Teflon tape and it stopped.

    Seat tube is another common source of creaking. I'm assuming you cleaned and coated that with something as well?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Thatshowiroll's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    1,441
    OP, I had the same problem with my Six13. Cleaned/greased BB and headset with no results.
    I went for a bike-fitting and the fitter discovered it was the pedal threads. Greased them up and problem solved.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by Centurion_ View Post
    I had a road bike that creaked where the seat rails met the clamp. Wrapped the rails with Teflon tape and it stopped.

    Seat tube is another common source of creaking. I'm assuming you cleaned and coated that with something as well?
    Yup. Took the whole dropper post out, cleaned and lubed. Operating it while riding makes no noise so that's out.

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    144
    I have had some creaking issues with my Trigger 1. When it happened last year I had a bottom bracket overhaul done and that got rid of most of it. After the season last year when I was at around 1000 miles on the bike, I had a full pivot overhaul and they replaced pretty much all the suspension pivots. That got rid of the rest of the little creaks here and there. Picked up another creak last weekend, bad one, but I am sure it is another bottom bracket creak.

  10. #10
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    My pennies are on the BB unless you've pulled and serviced it, and the cranks yet. Haven't met one yet that would stay quiet for more than a few months. No such thing as too much grease during this process either.

    BB30, what an utterly useless waste of product development time. Nothing like a product that needs to be pulled, cleaned, greased and serviced every few months when used as directed.

    Give me an old fashioned threaded BB any day.....

    Beyond that? Just soak the entire bike in a vat of oil when not riding, that'll shut it up
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    144
    That brings up a question that is mildly off topic, what is the best way to clean a bike? Mine gets some mud on it now and again, and last time i tried to be real careful, not spraying it down with water because I heard that was bad for the BB. So I waited till the mud was dry and tried to be more careful about wiping it clean... Then I have this nasty creak after that. So I spray it down after the next ride with a hose... creak is gone.

  12. #12
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    I just let it dry, and knock the dirt off with a brush. You're correct, water cleaning just rinses the now super fine silt in solution, deeper into spots you can't get to.

    My bikes are rarely super shiny and clean (who cares, they're just gonna get dirty next ride anyway), but they are almost always silent.

    If I have a ride that is just ridiculously wet, that's the only time I'll use water, and then, I stay away from the moving parts with anything beyond a gentle fan spray with the hose.....

    My two cents, YMMV.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    My pennies are on the BB unless you've pulled and serviced it, and the cranks yet. Haven't met one yet that would stay quiet for more than a few months. No such thing as too much grease during this process.
    Beyond that? Just soak the entire bike in a vat of oil when not riding, that'll shut it up
    Pulled, cleaned and super lubed.
    What should I lube the pivot bearings with? Can I just drip something on them?

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Flash29r's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    324
    I wash mine with a low pressure hand pump garden sprayer. I don't have any other option given I live in an apartment with no access to a hose. I have to clean it to put it back in my apartment. I have personally not had any issues with cleaning my bike this way at all.
    '12 Flash 29r C3 with a few mods
    '10 Synapse 5 Carbon with a few mods as well..

  15. #15
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    Quote Originally Posted by gcappy View Post
    Pulled, cleaned and super lubed.
    What should I lube the pivot bearings with? Can I just drip something on them?
    Did you pull the circlips, clean the grooves, regrease the grooves, grease the back sides of the clips once reinstalled, and then clean and grease the ever lovin' sh*t out of the spindle and crank interface before reassembly?

    If not, do that too.

    I like BikeAid. It's a molybdenum based, super watery lube. Also called DriSlide in some industries, motorcycles use it for cable lube.

    I use that for lubing hard to reach spots as it flows easily, and has a long super thin metal applicator spout.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Did you pull the circlips, clean the grooves, regrease the grooves, grease the back sides of the clips once reinstalled, and then clean and grease the ever lovin' sh*t out of the spindle and crank interface before reassembly?

    If not, do that too.

    I like BikeAid. It's a molybdenum based, super watery lube. Also called DriSlide in some industries, motorcycles use it for cable lube.

    I use that for lubing hard to reach spots as it flows easily, and has a long super thin metal applicator spout.....
    Did to remove the clips but I did force grease through the bearings after removing the Teflon bearing seals on the outside.
    I can make it creak by forcing my weight down on the seat. It is not however seat related.
    And neither is it crank related. I just sprayed some penetrating lube on the suspension bearings. We'll see what happens.

  17. #17
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    Hmmm, "did to" remove the clips? I assume that's did not?

    Did you pull the bearings out? Sounds like no to that too, but I can't tell.

    If not, they both need to be fully removed, BB she cleaned, spotless, and greased like it's your job. Any less and BB30 sings like a canary in a gas filled mine.

    Seat pressure related thoughts, pull the post, wipe it down thoroughly, spray a rag with degreaser, and thoroughly clean the seat tube. Regrease the tube well, and reinstall the post....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Hmmm, "did to" remove the clips? I assume that's did not?

    Did you pull the bearings out? Sounds like no to that too, but I can't tell.

    If not, they both need to be fully removed, BB she cleaned, spotless, and greased like it's your job. Any less and BB30 sings like a canary in a gas filled mine.

    Seat pressure related thoughts, pull the post, wipe it down thoroughly, spray a rag with degreaser, and thoroughly clean the seat tube. Regrease the tube well, and reinstall the post....
    Did not pull bearings out but I have concluded it's not the crank as it will do it without even turning or standing on them.
    Did do the routine you suggest for the seat post but I have also concluded it is not that as it will do it without sitting on the seat.
    The only thing left is the suspension bearings. I did spray lube on them. Still waiting for it to work in.

  19. #19
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    Tighten bolts too.

    Other than that, call the exorcist....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Soaking overnight. Check again in the morning.

  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    575
    I'm sure you've checked this but make sure the rear QR is done up very tight - Amazing how much noise that can make on a full bouncer (and sound like it's coming from somewhere else)

    On BB30 what's the best tactic for the bearings outers? Grease them or loctite? I suspect most of the noise from BB30 is the bearings moving very slightly in the frame and whilst grease would no doubt quieten this, would fixing them firmly in position with loctite be better?

    Maybe this doesn't happen but BB30 / pressfit in carbon frames worries me....I can see the frame bearing housing getting more and more worn as the bearings move each time they creak until finally the housing won't hold the bearing tight any more...outboard bearing like Hollowtech II has many disadvantages but at least you can replace the bearing interface.

  22. #22
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    Good call on the rear QR, but this being a through axle, it may or may not have the same impact as a loose regular QR. Definitely worth checking though, had a Jekyll years ago, ridiculous noises, and the tech guy told me to check the QR, or swap it for a non house brand version. Yep, that was it....

    Yes, some advocate for loctite on BB30 bearings, I find that can just lead to it's own issues such as exploding bearings leaving the outer race in the shell. And yet one more reason to dislike the system, I too can see the bearings slowly reducing press fit tolerances to the point of the frame becoming useless.

    Engineers are taught designed obsolescence as a practice (obviously they can choose to not employ it though), hmm, thinking we might have a case of that here?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Good call on the rear QR, but this being a through axle, it may or may not have the same impact as a loose regular QR. Definitely worth checking though, had a Jekyll years ago, ridiculous noises, and the tech guy told me to check the QR, or swap it for a non house brand version. Yep, that was it....

    Yes, some advocate for loctite on BB30 bearings, I find that can just lead to it's own issues such as exploding bearings leaving the outer race in the shell. And yet one more reason to dislike the system, I too can see the bearings slowly reducing press fit tolerances to the point of the frame becoming useless.

    Engineers are taught designed obsolescence as a practice (obviously they can choose to not employ it though), hmm, thinking we might have a case of that here?
    Through axle already removed, cleaned and relubed.

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Update:
    Just ran the bike around the driveway and all is quiet.
    It was the rear suspension bushings.
    I am in NC until Friday. When I get home I will take the entire bike apart, clean and lube everything on it.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MarinCRO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    720
    Mine was creaking as well, so here's my experience with it:

    I didn't touch the bearings as I believe bike is still way too young to warrant replacing them.

    After getting the Dyad fixed, I used generous amount of grease when installing it back on the frame.

    Xfusion HiLo post was the main culprit when it came to cracking sounds, the saddle clamp is not very well designed and accumulates dust/debris which can cause creaking.

    However, I found that it was actually the seatpost clamp which generated most of the noise. I disassembled it and cleaned the both screw and nut as it had a lot of fine sand stuck on it which was making the noise.
    I also cleaned inside of the seat tube.

    This eliminated most of the noise, but I had some issues with cranks which were/are creaking when ridden hard.
    Removed the cranks and bearings appeared very rough, after I removed them from the frame they feel fine.
    It's probably that BB30 is stressing the bearings and deforming them slightly causing them to run rough.
    I exchanged the bearings to new ones and same thing happened.

    One more thing which I didn't check, and it could be making the noise is the chain.
    If it's contaminated with fine sand, it could produce the noise while putting pressure on (climbing and so on).

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Update:
    Today I rode my fatty and my son in law rode my Trigger. He reports no creaking. We hit some really rough terrain. Lots of rocks and roots and a lot of one foot drops. Smooth and quiet.
    Yeah!

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    255
    What do you recommend for servicing / eliminating creaks on the newer PF30 bb's?

    Thanks!

    -matt


    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    My pennies are on the BB unless you've pulled and serviced it, and the cranks yet. Haven't met one yet that would stay quiet for more than a few months. No such thing as too much grease during this process either.

    BB30, what an utterly useless waste of product development time. Nothing like a product that needs to be pulled, cleaned, greased and serviced every few months when used as directed.

  28. #28
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,015
    Quote Originally Posted by mattmor View Post
    What do you recommend for servicing / eliminating creaks on the newer PF30 bb's?

    Thanks!

    -matt
    Haven't dealt with too many, but the principal remains the same.

    Gotta start super clean, then use way more grease than you think you'll need, coat every conceivable surface liberally, and plan on redoing frequently.

    Grouchy, anti non-threaded bottom bracket shell mechanic, out.

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    773
    Glad you found the problem gcrappy, I had a similar squeek on my Flash and after a similar amount of hair pulling found it to be the Chain even after I had lubed the damn thing! After that I stopped using Finish Line lube, never squeaked since!

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I just let it dry, and knock the dirt off with a brush. You're correct, water cleaning just rinses the now super fine silt in solution, deeper into spots you can't get to.

    My bikes are rarely super shiny and clean (who cares, they're just gonna get dirty next ride anyway), but they are almost always silent.

    If I have a ride that is just ridiculously wet, that's the only time I'll use water, and then, I stay away from the moving parts with anything beyond a gentle fan spray with the hose.....

    My two cents, YMMV.
    +1000

    I go one further, I use a shop vac as I knock of the dirt with a brush. I've been using this technique for over two decades. I started back as a teen when with my dirt bikes. They rear linkage is super exposed to the crud, and I was too poor to rebuild my rear suspension regularly. All my not so bright friends with more money than brains were power washing their bikes, and I saw the damage that was doing to them and came up with my system.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    60
    Make sure you or your mechanic has a top shelf torque wrench and all the torque specs for your bike. Then check them all, you might be in for a surprise!

  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2014
    Posts
    1
    I have the same creaking in my Cannondale Flash 29'er. I have no idea why or where it is coming from. It seems to be coming from the front of the bike, but I am not tech savvy. To make this more challenging, i moved to an area where the local bike shops do not seem to be overly Cannondale savvy.

    What should I tell them to consider as the problem when I bring my bike in? It only occurs when i ride. Seems very similar to GCappy's scenario.

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Centurion_'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    732
    ^^^
    Reread the thread and try as many of the suggestions you are comfortable with doing yourself before you take it into a shop. Lots of fixes for what makes a bike creak and how to stop it right here in this thread.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Posts
    60
    Buy a good torque wrench and make sure the fork is properly tightened. I checked mine and it was about to fall off!! Those bolts come lose as do many of the suspension bolts! Five of them were well below spec on my bike.
    I would recommend a CDI model number CDI 1502LDIN and they are available from Amazon.com for about $130. Thats a drop in the ocean compared to the price of the bike and the possibility of damage or failure of a part!

    CDI is the company that manufacture SnapOn Wrenches and in fact, they were just purchased by SnapOn. The wrenches are made in the USA and come pre-calibrated. They use a torsion system instead of a spring so they do not come out of calibration easily.

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation: gcappy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Posts
    1,641
    Mine was definitely the rear suspension bushings. They were just dry.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation: River19's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    632
    Glad it sounds like the original creaking was solved for. I had built up a good amount of creaking in my Rush and over the winter I pulled the whole thing apart and rebuilt it. As I pulled the frame apart and after I removed the RP23 I was working the swingarm with no resistence from the shock, and low and behold 50% of my creaking and whining was from my friggin deraillure cable going in and out of the swingarm for the internal pass-through. Seriously, the thing was a whiny little bastard.....

    I replaced the swingarm bearings and relubed everything and I threw some light grease on the damn cable housing and the bike is 100% quiet again.....

    Chasing down creaks is annoying and it can be damn near anything it seems.....

Similar Threads

  1. Stop making that noise...creaking new BB
    By urmb in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 08-27-2012, 10:01 AM
  2. Make the creaking stop!!! Where is my grease....
    By machine4321 in forum Cannondale
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 06-28-2012, 06:42 PM
  3. Replies: 73
    Last Post: 01-19-2012, 10:24 AM
  4. Phil Wood BB will not stop creaking
    By jpbova in forum Drivetrain - shifters, derailleurs, cranks
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 05-19-2011, 01:50 PM
  5. Stop............
    By mechagouki in forum Vintage, Retro, Classic
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 02-15-2011, 11:11 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •