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  1. #1
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    Stop the creaking

    OK, my 2013 Trigger 29er-1, aluminum frame bike is driving me nuts with creaking. I have taken almost the entire bike apart, cleaned and lubed it and it still creaks. It does it more when pedaling which lead me to believe it was the cranks or BB but I. Disassembled and rebuilt the whole thing.

    Has any one had issues with the swing arm bearings creaking?

  2. #2
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    You've gotta find out what's creaking. Take a stethoscope or something that will act as one and get it near the pivot points and bearings.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by deapee View Post
    You've gotta find out what's creaking. Take a stethoscope or something that will act as one and get it near the pivot points and bearings.
    Yeah, the thing is I can't get it to do it much unless I'm riding it.

  4. #4
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    Sometimes seat rails can creak within the seat itself. Isolate the seat contact when tracing the crankarm noise by standing and placing the crank horizontal. Bounce it one way then the other a few times. No noise when doing that, arms are probably not the problem. Seat contact involved, no noise, not the prob. Next would be chain or chainrings if it is only under higher power.

    If it is a suspension bearing creaking, make sure to use a loctite bearing setting adhesive to retain the movement of the cartridge or else it can lead to the mount hole exaggerating and becoming unusable. A tell-tale would be a white or black powder around the offending cartridge or bushing.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by supersedona View Post
    Sometimes seat rails can creak within the seat itself. Isolate the seat contact when tracing the crankarm noise by standing and placing the crank horizontal. Bounce it one way then the other a few times. No noise when doing that, arms are probably not the problem. Seat contact involved, no noise, not the prob. Next would be chain or chainrings if it is only under higher power.

    If it is a suspension bearing creaking, make sure to use a loctite bearing setting adhesive to retain the movement of the cartridge or else it can lead to the mount hole exaggerating and becoming unusable. A tell-tale would be a white or black powder around the offending cartridge or bushing.
    Ruled out the seat, the crank and the fork. It does it on. Bumps and under hard torque. I am thinking swing arm suspension bearings. The bike has very low miles so I am surprised ifit's that.

  6. #6
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    I had a road bike that creaked where the seat rails met the clamp. Wrapped the rails with Teflon tape and it stopped.

    Seat tube is another common source of creaking. I'm assuming you cleaned and coated that with something as well?

  7. #7
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    OP, I had the same problem with my Six13. Cleaned/greased BB and headset with no results.
    I went for a bike-fitting and the fitter discovered it was the pedal threads. Greased them up and problem solved.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Centurion_ View Post
    I had a road bike that creaked where the seat rails met the clamp. Wrapped the rails with Teflon tape and it stopped.

    Seat tube is another common source of creaking. I'm assuming you cleaned and coated that with something as well?
    Yup. Took the whole dropper post out, cleaned and lubed. Operating it while riding makes no noise so that's out.

  9. #9
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    I have had some creaking issues with my Trigger 1. When it happened last year I had a bottom bracket overhaul done and that got rid of most of it. After the season last year when I was at around 1000 miles on the bike, I had a full pivot overhaul and they replaced pretty much all the suspension pivots. That got rid of the rest of the little creaks here and there. Picked up another creak last weekend, bad one, but I am sure it is another bottom bracket creak.

  10. #10
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    My pennies are on the BB unless you've pulled and serviced it, and the cranks yet. Haven't met one yet that would stay quiet for more than a few months. No such thing as too much grease during this process either.

    BB30, what an utterly useless waste of product development time. Nothing like a product that needs to be pulled, cleaned, greased and serviced every few months when used as directed.

    Give me an old fashioned threaded BB any day.....

    Beyond that? Just soak the entire bike in a vat of oil when not riding, that'll shut it up
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  11. #11
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    That brings up a question that is mildly off topic, what is the best way to clean a bike? Mine gets some mud on it now and again, and last time i tried to be real careful, not spraying it down with water because I heard that was bad for the BB. So I waited till the mud was dry and tried to be more careful about wiping it clean... Then I have this nasty creak after that. So I spray it down after the next ride with a hose... creak is gone.

  12. #12
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    I just let it dry, and knock the dirt off with a brush. You're correct, water cleaning just rinses the now super fine silt in solution, deeper into spots you can't get to.

    My bikes are rarely super shiny and clean (who cares, they're just gonna get dirty next ride anyway), but they are almost always silent.

    If I have a ride that is just ridiculously wet, that's the only time I'll use water, and then, I stay away from the moving parts with anything beyond a gentle fan spray with the hose.....

    My two cents, YMMV.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    My pennies are on the BB unless you've pulled and serviced it, and the cranks yet. Haven't met one yet that would stay quiet for more than a few months. No such thing as too much grease during this process.
    Beyond that? Just soak the entire bike in a vat of oil when not riding, that'll shut it up
    Pulled, cleaned and super lubed.
    What should I lube the pivot bearings with? Can I just drip something on them?

  14. #14
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    I wash mine with a low pressure hand pump garden sprayer. I don't have any other option given I live in an apartment with no access to a hose. I have to clean it to put it back in my apartment. I have personally not had any issues with cleaning my bike this way at all.
    '12 Flash 29r C3 with a few mods
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by gcappy View Post
    Pulled, cleaned and super lubed.
    What should I lube the pivot bearings with? Can I just drip something on them?
    Did you pull the circlips, clean the grooves, regrease the grooves, grease the back sides of the clips once reinstalled, and then clean and grease the ever lovin' sh*t out of the spindle and crank interface before reassembly?

    If not, do that too.

    I like BikeAid. It's a molybdenum based, super watery lube. Also called DriSlide in some industries, motorcycles use it for cable lube.

    I use that for lubing hard to reach spots as it flows easily, and has a long super thin metal applicator spout.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Did you pull the circlips, clean the grooves, regrease the grooves, grease the back sides of the clips once reinstalled, and then clean and grease the ever lovin' sh*t out of the spindle and crank interface before reassembly?

    If not, do that too.

    I like BikeAid. It's a molybdenum based, super watery lube. Also called DriSlide in some industries, motorcycles use it for cable lube.

    I use that for lubing hard to reach spots as it flows easily, and has a long super thin metal applicator spout.....
    Did to remove the clips but I did force grease through the bearings after removing the Teflon bearing seals on the outside.
    I can make it creak by forcing my weight down on the seat. It is not however seat related.
    And neither is it crank related. I just sprayed some penetrating lube on the suspension bearings. We'll see what happens.

  17. #17
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    Hmmm, "did to" remove the clips? I assume that's did not?

    Did you pull the bearings out? Sounds like no to that too, but I can't tell.

    If not, they both need to be fully removed, BB she cleaned, spotless, and greased like it's your job. Any less and BB30 sings like a canary in a gas filled mine.

    Seat pressure related thoughts, pull the post, wipe it down thoroughly, spray a rag with degreaser, and thoroughly clean the seat tube. Regrease the tube well, and reinstall the post....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Hmmm, "did to" remove the clips? I assume that's did not?

    Did you pull the bearings out? Sounds like no to that too, but I can't tell.

    If not, they both need to be fully removed, BB she cleaned, spotless, and greased like it's your job. Any less and BB30 sings like a canary in a gas filled mine.

    Seat pressure related thoughts, pull the post, wipe it down thoroughly, spray a rag with degreaser, and thoroughly clean the seat tube. Regrease the tube well, and reinstall the post....
    Did not pull bearings out but I have concluded it's not the crank as it will do it without even turning or standing on them.
    Did do the routine you suggest for the seat post but I have also concluded it is not that as it will do it without sitting on the seat.
    The only thing left is the suspension bearings. I did spray lube on them. Still waiting for it to work in.

  19. #19
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    Tighten bolts too.

    Other than that, call the exorcist....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  20. #20
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    Soaking overnight. Check again in the morning.

  21. #21
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    I'm sure you've checked this but make sure the rear QR is done up very tight - Amazing how much noise that can make on a full bouncer (and sound like it's coming from somewhere else)

    On BB30 what's the best tactic for the bearings outers? Grease them or loctite? I suspect most of the noise from BB30 is the bearings moving very slightly in the frame and whilst grease would no doubt quieten this, would fixing them firmly in position with loctite be better?

    Maybe this doesn't happen but BB30 / pressfit in carbon frames worries me....I can see the frame bearing housing getting more and more worn as the bearings move each time they creak until finally the housing won't hold the bearing tight any more...outboard bearing like Hollowtech II has many disadvantages but at least you can replace the bearing interface.

  22. #22
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    Good call on the rear QR, but this being a through axle, it may or may not have the same impact as a loose regular QR. Definitely worth checking though, had a Jekyll years ago, ridiculous noises, and the tech guy told me to check the QR, or swap it for a non house brand version. Yep, that was it....

    Yes, some advocate for loctite on BB30 bearings, I find that can just lead to it's own issues such as exploding bearings leaving the outer race in the shell. And yet one more reason to dislike the system, I too can see the bearings slowly reducing press fit tolerances to the point of the frame becoming useless.

    Engineers are taught designed obsolescence as a practice (obviously they can choose to not employ it though), hmm, thinking we might have a case of that here?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Good call on the rear QR, but this being a through axle, it may or may not have the same impact as a loose regular QR. Definitely worth checking though, had a Jekyll years ago, ridiculous noises, and the tech guy told me to check the QR, or swap it for a non house brand version. Yep, that was it....

    Yes, some advocate for loctite on BB30 bearings, I find that can just lead to it's own issues such as exploding bearings leaving the outer race in the shell. And yet one more reason to dislike the system, I too can see the bearings slowly reducing press fit tolerances to the point of the frame becoming useless.

    Engineers are taught designed obsolescence as a practice (obviously they can choose to not employ it though), hmm, thinking we might have a case of that here?
    Through axle already removed, cleaned and relubed.

  24. #24
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    Update:
    Just ran the bike around the driveway and all is quiet.
    It was the rear suspension bushings.
    I am in NC until Friday. When I get home I will take the entire bike apart, clean and lube everything on it.

  25. #25
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    Mine was creaking as well, so here's my experience with it:

    I didn't touch the bearings as I believe bike is still way too young to warrant replacing them.

    After getting the Dyad fixed, I used generous amount of grease when installing it back on the frame.

    Xfusion HiLo post was the main culprit when it came to cracking sounds, the saddle clamp is not very well designed and accumulates dust/debris which can cause creaking.

    However, I found that it was actually the seatpost clamp which generated most of the noise. I disassembled it and cleaned the both screw and nut as it had a lot of fine sand stuck on it which was making the noise.
    I also cleaned inside of the seat tube.

    This eliminated most of the noise, but I had some issues with cranks which were/are creaking when ridden hard.
    Removed the cranks and bearings appeared very rough, after I removed them from the frame they feel fine.
    It's probably that BB30 is stressing the bearings and deforming them slightly causing them to run rough.
    I exchanged the bearings to new ones and same thing happened.

    One more thing which I didn't check, and it could be making the noise is the chain.
    If it's contaminated with fine sand, it could produce the noise while putting pressure on (climbing and so on).

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