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  1. #1
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    sloppy Rize 5, sloppy cannondale response

    Hi Kids.
    Sandy here (No I am not a girl either)
    Have had a Rize 5 for a bit now, was one of the first ones sold in Australia. It keeps developing slop in the Bolt between the shock and the link in the line of the shock travel could be up to 3-4 mm. For the last six months I have had replaced the bolt/bushes between the shock and the link maybe four times, the last two times 40 kilometres later flogged out sloppy again.
    last time I picked it up from my poor ol LBS mate I just walked it across a footy oval and it was going already.
    Cannondale eventually sent out a rep to my LBS who in turn put in a big arse bolt with two lock nuts on it to try to apply that much pressure on the join they could not slop around (I could have got my fifteen year old son to do the same thing) this was cannondales idea of a hot fix.
    That stuffed up in 25 k. Eventualy they gave in and gave us a new linkage. you guessed it doing pairs in a six hour race she is stuffed, in the first lap she was at it again.
    Finally they are going to take it back to the importer in Oz and have a look, I will be interested to see how long that takes. Funny thing is there are three others I know of that are suffering the same problem. Surely there is evidence of this problem elsewhere.
    Lets not even get me started on the way the cable outers cut into the frame.
    Last edited by magilla; 06-03-2010 at 01:30 PM. Reason: typo in title

  2. #2
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    Have you looked at your DU bushings on the shock? The pressed in metal looking sleeves.
    If they or one is black or silver and not red, they are gone.

    Just throwing out an idea to you. I had a "creak" I could not figure out. It was the DU bushing was just a little worn because the spacer had broken loose from it's locktited mounts
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  3. #3
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    Thanks mate. When I brought bushes they were supplied silver, that was a few sets ago. Since then I have been leaving to LBS. Costs me au$70 a throw for parts. Are the ones you refer to actually pressed into the head of the shock and maybe that has been overlooked. Because to me the only option now is that the eye of the shock is flogged out.
    And yes I get the creak too.

  4. #4
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    Yes - the DU bushing is pressed into the shock. These are inexpensive (at least in the States - I think I paid US $8 the last time I bought one).

    If you don't happen to have a bearing press or equivalent (a socket set can double as a press), you may want to hold on to your old DU bushing since an old one can be used to press another one out/in.

    -Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  5. #5
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    Gday guys, Spoke to my LBS mate today, he recalls doing that DU bush 3-4 times.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Gday guys, Spoke to my LBS mate today, he recalls doing that DU bush 3-4 times.
    On your bike or others?

    What's really strange about your case if I followed the symptoms properly is the problem seems to go away briefly if you replace the linkage parts. If that's the case, there must be some unusual condition on your bike that's causing undue wear on the linkage parts.

    Am I following correctly? If so, do the 'old' parts show wear when you replace them?
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  7. #7
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    Yes mate, 3-4 times on my bike.
    The linkage was replaced two and a half weeks ago ridden at the most 20 k and fully loose again.
    And I guess the problem goes away briefly once the bushes are replaced but that could just be that once it is ridden and settles in the pressure goes off the bolts in the joint and it returns to its sloppy ol self

  8. #8
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    You should have told the Cannondale rep you wanted a new frame.

  9. #9
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    I have had the top shock bolt / bushes replaced once at around 600 miles of riding after i noticed about 1 to 2mm of movement. It was done under warranty. But at the time the bike mechanic that did the replacement told me about this site that sells up-graded shock bolts. I have yet to try them for myself, but if you come to a dead end with your case, they might be worth a try..

    I think the correct "strong bushes" size for Rize is 22.2mm frame gap, 8.1mm bolt. Maybe some of the guys on here can back that up..??!??

    http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co...=Strong+Bushes

  10. #10
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    Thanks Guys, its going back to the Oz importer so I will see what happens from here.
    I think its something in the eye of the shock my self, has had bushes replaced to no avail.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    I have had the top shock bolt / bushes replaced once at around 600 miles of riding after i noticed about 1 to 2mm of movement. It was done under warranty. But at the time the bike mechanic that did the replacement told me about this site that sells up-graded shock bolts. I have yet to try them for myself, but if you come to a dead end with your case, they might be worth a try..

    I think the correct "strong bushes" size for Rize is 22.2mm frame gap, 8.1mm bolt. Maybe some of the guys on here can back that up..??!??

    http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co...=Strong+Bushes
    The website lists 22.0 and 22.4 gap widths.

    Can anyone confirm which is suitable for the rize?

    Roland

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    The website lists 22.0 and 22.4 gap widths.

    Can anyone confirm which is suitable for the rize?

    Roland

    My 2008 Rize owner manual states the following,

    UPPER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 0.05mm

    LOWER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 0.05mm

    BOLT HOLE DIA. - 8.1 0.05mm

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    My 2008 Rize owner manual states the following,

    UPPER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 0.05mm

    LOWER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 0.05mm

    BOLT HOLE DIA. - 8.1 0.05mm
    Hmmm........

    So what you are saying is they don't have a suitable size?

    Roland

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    Hmmm........

    So what you are saying is they don't have a suitable size?

    Roland

    To be honest im not sure. But i would expect one of the sizes would fit as we are only talking about 0.2mm, but im not sure if you go bigger or smaller. Asking a Cannondale rep/mechanic would give you the answer im sure.

    There is also these after market Shock Mounting bolts, but are crazy money,

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...oducts/KP071TI

  15. #15
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    Hello Roland, how bad is your bike.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    To be honest im not sure. But i would expect one of the sizes would fit as we are only talking about 0.2mm, but im not sure if you go bigger or smaller. Asking a Cannondale rep/mechanic would give you the answer im sure.

    There is also these after market Shock Mounting bolts, but are crazy money,

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...oducts/KP071TI

    O.K.Thanks, will ask.

    US$85 may seem horrendous but Magilla and I would gladly pay that to solve the problem. We pay US$59 for a genuine set in Australia as it is.

    Wonder if they do bulk orders?

    Roland

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    O.K.Thanks, will ask.

    US$85 may seem horrendous but Magilla and I would gladly pay that to solve the problem. We pay US$59 for a genuine set in Australia as it is.

    Wonder if they do bulk orders?

    Roland
    $59 for genuine ?

    On that same German site its 8 euro for the "genuine" Shock Mounting ( Although you will be 30 euro postage)...

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...Products/KP071

  18. #18
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    Hey Chico,
    I cant seem to get cannonondail to have take it to seriously so far, and apparently the rep quit and moved to greener pastures.
    And Roland is right, $70 au to get a genuine set here , when you cosider the bike cost au$3300, it aint that much
    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    To be honest im not sure. But i would expect one of the sizes would fit as we are only talking about 0.2mm, but im not sure if you go bigger or smaller. Asking a Cannondale rep/mechanic would give you the answer im sure.

    There is also these after market Shock Mounting bolts, but are crazy money,

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...oducts/KP071TI

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    $59 for genuine ?

    On that same German site its 8 euro for the "genuine" Shock Mounting ( Although you will be 30 euro postage)...

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...Products/KP071

    Yep, US$59 for genuine

    Captive market

    We are also very used to the "make it cheap and charge LOTS for postage" routine

    Most, but not all U.S. sites the same. Tried to purchase a Cannondale balaclava from the U.S. for $17, until they asked for $65 postage!!

    Roland

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Hello Roland, how bad is your bike.

    Have already had two goes at "getting it right"

    It doesn't get the amount of use yours does but still only lasts for one good ride before going back to clunking

    From what I have learnt the single pivot design has this problem more than others. Same symptoms on bikes like Santa Cruz Superlight, etc. Just not as bad.

    Roland

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Hey Chico,
    I cant seem to get cannonondail to have take it to seriously so far, and apparently the rep quit and moved to greener pastures.
    And Roland is right, $70 au to get a genuine set here , when you cosider the bike cost au$3300, it aint that much

    Is alot when you consider the same part is being sold in Europe for 8 euro ( even less in the USA i would guess)!

    There is clearly a reoccurring problem with these shock mounts, or the Germans would not have resorted to manufacturing there own "stronger" part..

  22. #22
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    There has to be fault with the mounts or something on your frames. I have had to replace my top Shock Mount bushing once ( after 600 miles) but it was really my own fault, as i had got a bit complacent and let the top bolt get loose.

    I have done well over 2000 miles since, and its still tight with no slack. My Rize is well looked after, but leads a hard life as i ride hell out of it daily in all conditions ( i live in muddy Scotland ), A ride does not go by where my rear travel indicator has not been pushed close to max on drops, jumps or rock gardens..
    Last edited by chick0; 06-11-2010 at 12:45 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    There has to be fault with the mounts or something on your frames. I have had to replace my top Shock Mount bushing once ( after 600 miles) but it was really my own fault, as i had got a bit complacent and let the top bolt get loose.

    I have done well over 2000 miles since, and its still tight with no slack. My Rize is well looked after, but leads a hard life as i ride hell out of it daily in all conditions ( i live in muddy Scotland ), A ride does not go by where my rear travel indicator has not been pushed close to max on drops, jumps or rock gardens..
    This is possible on the mounts. If the mounts are not aligned with the shock's travel path, it will prematurely wear out the pivot hardware on the shock. This happened to a bike at my LBS at the same time I was getting my Rush warrantied. That bike was also getting a warranty replacement. I would have the LBS and Cdale rep look at the shock mount alignment.
    All out of S**** and down to my last F***

  24. #24
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    I agree with Buzzaro.
    I don't think the bushes should deteriorate this quickly unless they are being eccentrically loaded to a far greater extent than they were designed for.
    I'd be looking for a misalignment elsewhere on the bike to indicate that the shock's path of travel isn't what it should be.
    All suspended bikes and particularly single pivot designs flex and cause some pivot/bush wear but something extreme is going on here.

  25. #25
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    These guys do upgraded shock mounting kits too..

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...s-and-Bushings

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