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  1. #1
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    sloppy Rize 5, sloppy cannondale response

    Hi Kids.
    Sandy here (No I am not a girl either)
    Have had a Rize 5 for a bit now, was one of the first ones sold in Australia. It keeps developing slop in the Bolt between the shock and the link in the line of the shock travel could be up to 3-4 mm. For the last six months I have had replaced the bolt/bushes between the shock and the link maybe four times, the last two times 40 kilometres later flogged out sloppy again.
    last time I picked it up from my poor ol LBS mate I just walked it across a footy oval and it was going already.
    Cannondale eventually sent out a rep to my LBS who in turn put in a big arse bolt with two lock nuts on it to try to apply that much pressure on the join they could not slop around (I could have got my fifteen year old son to do the same thing) this was cannondales idea of a hot fix.
    That stuffed up in 25 k. Eventualy they gave in and gave us a new linkage. you guessed it doing pairs in a six hour race she is stuffed, in the first lap she was at it again.
    Finally they are going to take it back to the importer in Oz and have a look, I will be interested to see how long that takes. Funny thing is there are three others I know of that are suffering the same problem. Surely there is evidence of this problem elsewhere.
    Lets not even get me started on the way the cable outers cut into the frame.
    Last edited by magilla; 06-03-2010 at 01:30 PM. Reason: typo in title

  2. #2
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    Have you looked at your DU bushings on the shock? The pressed in metal looking sleeves.
    If they or one is black or silver and not red, they are gone.

    Just throwing out an idea to you. I had a "creak" I could not figure out. It was the DU bushing was just a little worn because the spacer had broken loose from it's locktited mounts
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  3. #3
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    Thanks mate. When I brought bushes they were supplied silver, that was a few sets ago. Since then I have been leaving to LBS. Costs me au$70 a throw for parts. Are the ones you refer to actually pressed into the head of the shock and maybe that has been overlooked. Because to me the only option now is that the eye of the shock is flogged out.
    And yes I get the creak too.

  4. #4
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    Yes - the DU bushing is pressed into the shock. These are inexpensive (at least in the States - I think I paid US $8 the last time I bought one).

    If you don't happen to have a bearing press or equivalent (a socket set can double as a press), you may want to hold on to your old DU bushing since an old one can be used to press another one out/in.

    -Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  5. #5
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    Gday guys, Spoke to my LBS mate today, he recalls doing that DU bush 3-4 times.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Gday guys, Spoke to my LBS mate today, he recalls doing that DU bush 3-4 times.
    On your bike or others?

    What's really strange about your case if I followed the symptoms properly is the problem seems to go away briefly if you replace the linkage parts. If that's the case, there must be some unusual condition on your bike that's causing undue wear on the linkage parts.

    Am I following correctly? If so, do the 'old' parts show wear when you replace them?
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  7. #7
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    Yes mate, 3-4 times on my bike.
    The linkage was replaced two and a half weeks ago ridden at the most 20 k and fully loose again.
    And I guess the problem goes away briefly once the bushes are replaced but that could just be that once it is ridden and settles in the pressure goes off the bolts in the joint and it returns to its sloppy ol self

  8. #8
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    You should have told the Cannondale rep you wanted a new frame.

  9. #9
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    I have had the top shock bolt / bushes replaced once at around 600 miles of riding after i noticed about 1 to 2mm of movement. It was done under warranty. But at the time the bike mechanic that did the replacement told me about this site that sells up-graded shock bolts. I have yet to try them for myself, but if you come to a dead end with your case, they might be worth a try..

    I think the correct "strong bushes" size for Rize is 22.2mm frame gap, 8.1mm bolt. Maybe some of the guys on here can back that up..??!??

    http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co...=Strong+Bushes

  10. #10
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    Thanks Guys, its going back to the Oz importer so I will see what happens from here.
    I think its something in the eye of the shock my self, has had bushes replaced to no avail.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    I have had the top shock bolt / bushes replaced once at around 600 miles of riding after i noticed about 1 to 2mm of movement. It was done under warranty. But at the time the bike mechanic that did the replacement told me about this site that sells up-graded shock bolts. I have yet to try them for myself, but if you come to a dead end with your case, they might be worth a try..

    I think the correct "strong bushes" size for Rize is 22.2mm frame gap, 8.1mm bolt. Maybe some of the guys on here can back that up..??!??

    http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co...=Strong+Bushes
    The website lists 22.0 and 22.4 gap widths.

    Can anyone confirm which is suitable for the rize?

    Roland

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    The website lists 22.0 and 22.4 gap widths.

    Can anyone confirm which is suitable for the rize?

    Roland

    My 2008 Rize owner manual states the following,

    UPPER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 ± 0.05mm

    LOWER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 ± 0.05mm

    BOLT HOLE DIA. - 8.1 ± 0.05mm

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    My 2008 Rize owner manual states the following,

    UPPER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 ± 0.05mm

    LOWER BUSHING WIDTH - 22.2 ± 0.05mm

    BOLT HOLE DIA. - 8.1 ± 0.05mm
    Hmmm........

    So what you are saying is they don't have a suitable size?

    Roland

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    Hmmm........

    So what you are saying is they don't have a suitable size?

    Roland

    To be honest im not sure. But i would expect one of the sizes would fit as we are only talking about 0.2mm, but im not sure if you go bigger or smaller. Asking a Cannondale rep/mechanic would give you the answer im sure.

    There is also these after market Shock Mounting bolts, but are crazy money,

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...oducts/KP071TI

  15. #15
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    Hello Roland, how bad is your bike.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    To be honest im not sure. But i would expect one of the sizes would fit as we are only talking about 0.2mm, but im not sure if you go bigger or smaller. Asking a Cannondale rep/mechanic would give you the answer im sure.

    There is also these after market Shock Mounting bolts, but are crazy money,

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...oducts/KP071TI

    O.K.Thanks, will ask.

    US$85 may seem horrendous but Magilla and I would gladly pay that to solve the problem. We pay US$59 for a genuine set in Australia as it is.

    Wonder if they do bulk orders?

    Roland

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    O.K.Thanks, will ask.

    US$85 may seem horrendous but Magilla and I would gladly pay that to solve the problem. We pay US$59 for a genuine set in Australia as it is.

    Wonder if they do bulk orders?

    Roland
    $59 for genuine ?

    On that same German site its 8 euro for the "genuine" Shock Mounting ( Although you will be 30 euro postage)...

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...Products/KP071

  18. #18
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    Hey Chico,
    I cant seem to get cannonondail to have take it to seriously so far, and apparently the rep quit and moved to greener pastures.
    And Roland is right, $70 au to get a genuine set here , when you cosider the bike cost au$3300, it aint that much
    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    To be honest im not sure. But i would expect one of the sizes would fit as we are only talking about 0.2mm, but im not sure if you go bigger or smaller. Asking a Cannondale rep/mechanic would give you the answer im sure.

    There is also these after market Shock Mounting bolts, but are crazy money,

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...oducts/KP071TI

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    $59 for genuine ?

    On that same German site its 8 euro for the "genuine" Shock Mounting ( Although you will be 30 euro postage)...

    http://www.cannondale-parts.de/epage...Products/KP071

    Yep, US$59 for genuine

    Captive market

    We are also very used to the "make it cheap and charge LOTS for postage" routine

    Most, but not all U.S. sites the same. Tried to purchase a Cannondale balaclava from the U.S. for $17, until they asked for $65 postage!!

    Roland

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Hello Roland, how bad is your bike.

    Have already had two goes at "getting it right"

    It doesn't get the amount of use yours does but still only lasts for one good ride before going back to clunking

    From what I have learnt the single pivot design has this problem more than others. Same symptoms on bikes like Santa Cruz Superlight, etc. Just not as bad.

    Roland

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Hey Chico,
    I cant seem to get cannonondail to have take it to seriously so far, and apparently the rep quit and moved to greener pastures.
    And Roland is right, $70 au to get a genuine set here , when you cosider the bike cost au$3300, it aint that much

    Is alot when you consider the same part is being sold in Europe for 8 euro ( even less in the USA i would guess)!

    There is clearly a reoccurring problem with these shock mounts, or the Germans would not have resorted to manufacturing there own "stronger" part..

  22. #22
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    There has to be fault with the mounts or something on your frames. I have had to replace my top Shock Mount bushing once ( after 600 miles) but it was really my own fault, as i had got a bit complacent and let the top bolt get loose.

    I have done well over 2000 miles since, and its still tight with no slack. My Rize is well looked after, but leads a hard life as i ride hell out of it daily in all conditions ( i live in muddy Scotland ), A ride does not go by where my rear travel indicator has not been pushed close to max on drops, jumps or rock gardens..
    Last edited by chick0; 06-11-2010 at 12:45 PM.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    There has to be fault with the mounts or something on your frames. I have had to replace my top Shock Mount bushing once ( after 600 miles) but it was really my own fault, as i had got a bit complacent and let the top bolt get loose.

    I have done well over 2000 miles since, and its still tight with no slack. My Rize is well looked after, but leads a hard life as i ride hell out of it daily in all conditions ( i live in muddy Scotland ), A ride does not go by where my rear travel indicator has not been pushed close to max on drops, jumps or rock gardens..
    This is possible on the mounts. If the mounts are not aligned with the shock's travel path, it will prematurely wear out the pivot hardware on the shock. This happened to a bike at my LBS at the same time I was getting my Rush warrantied. That bike was also getting a warranty replacement. I would have the LBS and Cdale rep look at the shock mount alignment.
    All out of S**** and down to my last F***

  24. #24
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    I agree with Buzzaro.
    I don't think the bushes should deteriorate this quickly unless they are being eccentrically loaded to a far greater extent than they were designed for.
    I'd be looking for a misalignment elsewhere on the bike to indicate that the shock's path of travel isn't what it should be.
    All suspended bikes and particularly single pivot designs flex and cause some pivot/bush wear but something extreme is going on here.

  25. #25
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    These guys do upgraded shock mounting kits too..

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...s-and-Bushings

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    These guys do upgraded shock mounting kits too..

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...s-and-Bushings
    My RZ120 has developed some play in the lower bush, it gets ridden alot, 100miles/week, but I would have expected it to last longer. I'm looking at getting this to replace the bush:

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html

    They look exactly the same bearings as on my Scalpel 68mm, makes more sense than a bush, goin to get both upper & lower coz I'm OCD, upper's not really needed but it looks cool!! They dont mention RZ compaitbility, or ANY Cannondale, but it's 23mm gap & the sell 0.5mm shims so it should be better than current. Anyone used these? Gonna give it a go anyway & let you know if it's better/worse.


  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anthony6
    My RZ120 has developed some play in the lower bush, it gets ridden alot, 100miles/week, but I would have expected it to last longer. I'm looking at getting this to replace the bush:

    http://www.enduroforkseals.com/id275.html

    They look exactly the same bearings as on my Scalpel 68mm, makes more sense than a bush, goin to get both upper & lower coz I'm OCD, upper's not really needed but it looks cool!! They dont mention RZ compaitbility, or ANY Cannondale, but it's 23mm gap & the sell 0.5mm shims so it should be better than current. Anyone used these? Gonna give it a go anyway & let you know if it's better/worse.


    Could you let us know how you go, including exactly which kit you purchased.

    This may be a better solution than bushes, as you have mentioned

    Thanks for the info

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by uhuforrest
    Could you let us know how you go, including exactly which kit you purchased.

    This may be a better solution than bushes, as you have mentioned

    Thanks for the info
    I'm getting the NBKRWC22 kit, it's 22mm hence the 2 x 0.5mm shims.

    I hope the kit lasts, the bearing in my Scalpel would chew into the Titanium pivot bolt in time, since these are far less stressed as it's only the shock eye not the main pivot, plus the CroMo axle will be harder wearing than Ti.

    Might take a few days to arrive, would be nice to have it before my Marathon on 4th July.

  29. #29
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    How did you make out with the Enduro Shock Needle Bearing kit? I just ordered some for my '09 Rize.

    RBR

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    Yeh how did the needle kit pan out.
    My LBS had another crack at the issue, which failed yet again.
    Finally it got sent to cannondale, it has apparently been fixed with quite a few parts being replaced. It is on its way back from Sydney to South West Vic, today. So I will be interested to see what has been done

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Yeh how did the needle kit pan out.
    My LBS had another crack at the issue, which failed yet again.
    Finally it got sent to cannondale, it has apparently been fixed with quite a few parts being replaced. It is on its way back from Sydney to South West Vic, today. So I will be interested to see what has been done

    I KNOW, I KNOW!

    A big #rse stainless bolt with 2 nylock nuts on the end!




    No wait - they already tried that one

  32. #32
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    I tell ya, if its another big arse bolt the resulting tirade may well be heard at cannondale HQ

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by magilla
    Yeh how did the needle kit pan out.
    My LBS had another crack at the issue, which failed yet again.
    Finally it got sent to cannondale, it has apparently been fixed with quite a few parts being replaced. It is on its way back from Sydney to South West Vic, today. So I will be interested to see what has been done
    Right, got them a couple of days ago. Pushed out the bushes, installed these, easy. Nicely made, good seals too. There's a tiny bit of play, less than what you have with worn bushes, but according to Chris @ RWC it's normal to prevent the bearings bind.

    I could only fit the washers in the eyelet on the frame, the one in the linkage was a perfect fit, so must be 22mm & top eyelet is 23mm.

    They are silky smooth now, a lot nicer than OEM. Now I understand the review of the new Ghost AMR 7500, they're needle bearings throughout. Not done any serious rides on them but there is a touch more sensitivity on the little bumps, will see how it goes through the travel.



  34. #34
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    I received my Enduro Needle Bearing Kit yesterday and installed (using the enduro tools, which I also bought, was slick and easier than trying to find the right size socket). Installation was simple. I used one 0.5mm shim on the front and rear mount (each on the right side). Not sure if I really needed it, as it seemed pretty good without it, but was able to just slide one shim in so figured it was probably wise. Unlike above poster, I do not notice any play now with the new setup (I liberally greased the needles and everything else in the system. Suspension definitely smooth with no air in shock, but when pressured and sitting on the bike, not sure if I notice anything yet (e.g any better small bump compliance?). Will have to put it to a ride in the trails tomorrow and see.

    Will try to remember to report back again, especially in the long term, on durability issues. In the meantime, so far, so good.

  35. #35
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    Hello,

    I have the same problem.
    I thought at first the bushing was worn, but found out that there was approx. 1 to 2 mm play at the lower fixation (between the "hole" and the bolt). The bushings look as new, and the bolt/nut too, so I found out where the movement was coming from ...
    I used some small ropes of tape and fixed them into the holes before mounting the bolt.
    I did this about 6 months ago and untill now ... no play at all.
    I just have to look for the cracking noise I have so now and then (depending on the weather).
    But it seems to comes from the saddle and/or seatpost (OEM). If I'm beeing a bit rough on the saddle (twisting and pushing ... it makes cracking noises)

    But anyhow ! How are the bearing kits doing now?

  36. #36
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    Like the look of those needle bearings, shame they don't list cannondales, i'll try to work find a match for my RP2.

    currently getting my Rush a major overhaul after three years of riding. Cannondale quoted 90aus just for supply of the front wheel bearings! Holy cow, I am starting to worry as I sent the fork off to be serviced, this could end up costing more than a new bike.

    The only real problem with the fork is the thread holding the lockout and rebound damper knobs in place, after a few bearing resets it is really looking like it is ready to strip, the metal is super soft, not sure how I will address that if it lets go.
    Don't grow up, it's a trap.

  37. #37
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    Sloppy bushes.......have I cracked it ..finally?

    After 3 rocker links I think I may have it sorted. The hole on the rocker link was around 8.1 and the bolt was 7.9 (despite cannondale stating 8.1 on all the info). Leisure Lakes Daventry sorted me withe a bolt from an Orange 5 that was more like 8.1mm much much better. felles tight without over torquing the bolts..... The truth will be out next week aftyer riding the 7 stanes.....

    Hopefully that is the last of changing the bushes every few months.

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by mishmash
    After 3 rocker links I think I may have it sorted. The hole on the rocker link was around 8.1 and the bolt was 7.9 (despite cannondale stating 8.1 on all the info). Leisure Lakes Daventry sorted me withe a bolt from an Orange 5 that was more like 8.1mm much much better. felles tight without over torquing the bolts..... The truth will be out next week aftyer riding the 7 stanes.....

    Hopefully that is the last of changing the bushes every few months.
    Was it an original part used by Orange you got from Leisure Lakes, or a 3rd party part designed for the Pro 5? I would like to give this give this a go too, as i was about to replace "another" worn bolt ..

    Also, any idea what the size used on the Pro 5, as Orange lists 3 sizes for there bikes, 29, 31, 33mm.

    The original Orange bolts are sold on there site for £3.95 each

    http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/components/#bolts

    (Have fun at the 7 stanes, what trails are you riding and when? If you see a guy on a white Rize, it could be me, as i have yet to see another Rize on any of the 7 stanes...)
    Last edited by chick0; 07-30-2010 at 03:15 PM.

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    Was it an original part used by Orange you got from Leisure Lakes, or a 3rd party part designed for the Pro 5? I would like to give this give this a go too, as i was about to replace "another" worn bolt ..

    Also, any idea what the size used on the Pro 5, as Orange lists 3 sizes for there bikes, 29, 31, 33mm.

    The original Orange bolts are sold on there site for £3.95 each

    http://www.orangebikes.co.uk/components/#bolts

    (Have fun at the 7 stanes, what trails are you riding and when? If you see a guy on a white Rize, it could be me, as i have yet to see another Rize on any of the 7 stanes...)

    I feel a bit of a fraud now as I only have half a story..... Leisure Lakes have been fantatstic with my Rize problems. (1 worn rocker link, two broken carbon frames etc) and this was also done for me as part of the service.... Thanks Matt and George... top job.. Matt told me verbally that the part was from an Orange so I assume its OE.. I note that Orange measure to the outside of the frame mount and Cannondale measure the size of the bushing. I would guess therefore that it cant be more than the 29mm one.... Bush size 22mm + 2xmaterial thickness. Otherwise, measure the outside of the rocker links. Or give George at LL Daventry a call. Good luck.

    I am riding Ae on Saturday, Glentress / Innerleithen Sunday and maybe mabie (Tee Hee) on Monday. I will be on a White RZ140 with hopefully no freeplay......

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0

    (Have fun at the 7 stanes, what trails are you riding and when? If you see a guy on a white Rize, it could be me, as i have yet to see another Rize on any of the 7 stanes...)
    Was that you chick0 on Saturday at Innerleithen? If so, you went past me resting at the top of climb.... Good news, the rear end is still as tight as a gnats watsit despite pounding it for three days solid at 7 stanes.....

  41. #41
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    Nope, it was sadly not me you saw, as I'm "Out of Action" right now, so have not been out riding for a bit... Was it a white Rize that went past you?

    If it had been me, i would come over to say hi, as us Cannondale riders in the Scotland have stick together, as we are a rare breed these days..

    It really is amazing the extra energy, focus and bravery i get when i see a Pro 5 or Zesty on the trail in the distance to hunt and kill

    Let us know how your bike gets on in the following weeks and months, as i think I'm going to do my Bushings and bolts soon..
    Last edited by chick0; 08-11-2010 at 12:39 AM.

  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    Nope, it was sadly not me you saw, as I'm "Out of Action" right now, so have not been out riding for a bit... Was it a white Rize that went past you?

    ....Let us know how your bike gets on in the following weeks and months, as i think I'm going to do my Bushings and bolts soon..

    Yep, a white Rize (4 or 5?). More than one of you then....

    Anyway, so far so good on the bush free play. I have the TF tuned heavy duty bushes 22x8 and an 8mm bolt from an Orange. Seems to work great. . Defo worth a try as I have had a sloppy rize rear end for ages and this seems good so far.

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by mishmash
    Yep, a white Rize (4 or 5?). More than one of you then....

    Anyway, so far so good on the bush free play. I have the TF tuned heavy duty bushes 22x8 and an 8mm bolt from an Orange. Seems to work great. . Defo worth a try as I have had a sloppy rize rear end for ages and this seems good so far.

    Did you get your TF tuned heavy bushes here ?

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...unt-Kits-127mm

    What material have you used for the Eyelet ? I was thinking of giving the Polymer ones a try;

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...yelet-Bushings

    I'm still undecided if i will go for upgraded "Strong Bushes" or the "Fox Needle Roller Bearing" like found here,

    http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co...Roller+Bearing

  44. #44
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    I'm glad you guys have found a solution. Neither C'dale nor two LBS' could do anything to make the same problem go away on my Scalpel. I kept telling them and even showing them that the bolt OD was too much smaller than the shock eyelet ID, and they still couldn't produce a solution.

    I don't know if they've had too much lead in their drinking water for too long or they have a slow CO leak inside some of their offices, but shame on C'dale for this particular problem - they should have had it solved permanently within weeks at most, especially since as a company, they knew damn well this wasn't a rare issue with their shock connections.

    Fortunately my RZ140-1 has not had any problems after >600 miles.
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedalphile
    I'm glad you guys have found a solution. Neither C'dale nor two LBS' could do anything to make the same problem go away on my Scalpel. I kept telling them and even showing them that the bolt OD was too much smaller than the shock eyelet ID, and they still couldn't produce a solution.

    I don't know if they've had too much lead in their drinking water for too long or they have a slow CO leak inside some of their offices, but shame on C'dale for this particular problem - they should have had it solved permanently within weeks at most, especially since as a company, they knew damn well this wasn't a rare issue with their shock connections.

    Fortunately my RZ140-1 has not had any problems after >600 miles.

    To be honest, this is not a problem that effects only Cannondale's. The Bushes are made by the shock manufactures (has anyone with rockshox monarch shocks been experiencing these same problems?).
    From the vast range of sizes and different types of replacement "strong bushes" kits on the market, its obvious that this is a common problem with a great many full suspension rigs.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    Did you get your TF tuned heavy bushes here ?

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...unt-Kits-127mm

    What material have you used for the Eyelet ? I was thinking of giving the Polymer ones a try;

    http://www.tftunedshox.com/Miscellan...yelet-Bushings

    I'm still undecided if i will go for upgraded "Strong Bushes" or the "Fox Needle Roller Bearing" like found here,

    http://www.mountainbikecomponents.co...Roller+Bearing

    Yup, thats the heavy duty kit I went for. The kit has polymer bushes in with it and I bought 4 extra bushes for the future..... just in case!!

    Not sure about the needle bearings idea, seems to be overkill to me, there is only a reasonably small amount of movement..... keep us informed if you do.


    Ref the later post on bush wear... I agree, however having had 4 different rocker links now , there seems to be some variability in the manufacturing, first one had lots of free play, second one didn't, 3 a bit and 4 lots. Finding a bolt the right size isn't an ideal solution but it seems to have fixed my current bike, long may it remain tight.....

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by mishmash
    Yup, thats the heavy duty kit I went for. The kit has polymer bushes in with it and I bought 4 extra bushes for the future..... just in case!!

    Not sure about the needle bearings idea, seems to be overkill to me, there is only a reasonably small amount of movement..... keep us informed if you do.


    Ref the later post on bush wear... I agree, however having had 4 different rocker links now , there seems to be some variability in the manufacturing, first one had lots of free play, second one didn't, 3 a bit and 4 lots. Finding a bolt the right size isn't an ideal solution but it seems to have fixed my current bike, long may it remain tight.....

    Hows your bushes holding up ( that sounds like a question from a porn movie lol ). I'm about to overhaul my Rize and need to do the bushes again, are the TF-Tuned ones the way to go do you think ?

  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by chick0
    To be honest, this is not a problem that effects only Cannondale's. The Bushes are made by the shock manufactures (has anyone with rockshox monarch shocks been experiencing these same problems?).
    From the vast range of sizes and different types of replacement "strong bushes" kits on the market, its obvious that this is a common problem with a great many full suspension rigs.
    i was think about to switch to RockShox or DT, but i couldn't find enough info on the web if it will solve the problem. So it will be interesting to hear facts from real users.

  49. #49
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    Ok I just built up a brand new Rize 1 frame and had the subtle clunking when gently lifting the bike by the seat (just enough to get the rear suspension moving). tightening the rear shock mount would seem to work until you cycle the shock a few times and then the clunk is back.

    After reviewing earlier posts I removed the lower shock mount bolt, wrapped the bolt with 1 ply of scotch tape and carefully put the bolt back in making sure that the tape doesn't get scarred. Volia! clunk is gone and I have done some long punishing rides since. Not sure how long this "fix" will last but after 10+ hours of trail time no play at all.

    It looks like the diameter of the holes in the "frog link" are just a bit larger than the bolt diameter hence the clunk.

    I also looked into the needle bearings at RWC (enduro) and the NBKRWC22 are the right units for the rize. The effective width according to RWC is 21.84mm. So no shims should required since if the width on the rize is 22.2 +/- .05mm as stated by Cannondale. Ordered some and will report back when installed.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by dkestar
    Ok I just built up a brand new Rize 1 frame and had the subtle clunking when gently lifting the bike by the seat (just enough to get the rear suspension moving). tightening the rear shock mount would seem to work until you cycle the shock a few times and then the clunk is back.

    After reviewing earlier posts I removed the lower shock mount bolt, wrapped the bolt with 1 ply of scotch tape and carefully put the bolt back in making sure that the tape doesn't get scarred. Volia! clunk is gone and I have done some long punishing rides since. Not sure how long this "fix" will last but after 10+ hours of trail time no play at all.

    It looks like the diameter of the holes in the "frog link" are just a bit larger than the bolt diameter hence the clunk.

    I also looked into the needle bearings at RWC (enduro) and the NBKRWC22 are the right units for the rize. The effective width according to RWC is 21.84mm. So no shims should required since if the width on the rize is 22.2 +/- .05mm as stated by Cannondale. Ordered some and will report back when installed.
    I was just about to post a very similar post to this...

    I have recently done a complete strip down on my Rize Carbon 2008, and while investigating the slack in shock bushings / bolts have noticed inconsistent spacings between the various mounts and bolt holes.

    Here's the sizes I measured on my frame;


    Frame Bolt Hole = 7.9mm
    Frame Bushing Gap = 22.2mm

    Hanger Bolt Hole = 8.15mm
    Hanger Bushing Gap = 22.95mm

    Bolt Diameter = 7.85mm


    I have ordered various new bushings and bolts of the "nearest" sizes i could find, i will post again with the details once i have fitted them to the bike.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails sloppy Rize 5, sloppy cannondale response-frame-sizes.jpg  

    sloppy Rize 5, sloppy cannondale response-hanger-sizes.jpg  

    Last edited by chick0; 08-27-2010 at 05:03 PM.

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