SL4 1.5 Headtube Reducer New 1-1/8 Fork
I have a Cannondale SL4 2012 with 1.5" head tube.
I want to install a Rock Shock Reba that is 1-1/8 (shock is not tapered).
Rockshox Reba Rlt Ti Dual Air Fork 120 mm Qr
Which headset or adapters do I need to make it work?
Is there anything more I need to know about making it work out?
Can you recommend which spacer to use on top to increase height and will fit clean.
I have seen a lot of mixed info searching the forum and web, but I'm not totally clear on the part numbers to order to make it work.
I went to a couple LBS and they all told me to go search the internet to figure it out because it was not worth their time to research what I needed.
The LBS said I have an integrated top and external bottom headset.
They said this is irregular and didnít' know what headset would come in that format.
They said they think I would need to buy two headsets to cannibalize, one internal for the top and one external for the bottom.
It looks to me like these could work:
Chris King 1.5" Devolution Reducer Headset
FSA Orbit DL 1.5R Reducing Headset (websites show multiple variations with this same name)
Cane Creek ZS49/28.6|ZS49/30 (1.5" - 1-1/8" Conversion Standard)
Cane Creek 110 ZS49 (Conversion Headset)
I wonder why the Cane Creek 110 ZS is more then double price of the 40 series headset,
is it this:
"The Cane Creek 110 ZS Headset fits has stainless bearings feature Split-Lip seals for twice the protection of a typical cartridge bearing."
Do I also need this:
Cane Creek 40-Series Conversion Crown Race from
Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 08-10-2012 at 10:32 PM.
It is confirmed this is the correct headset for my frame and fork combination:
Cane Creek 40.ZS49/30.Complete # BAA0077K
This allows me to put a 1-1/8 steering tube fork (not tapered) into my straight head tube that is 1.5" on Top & Bottom.
The fork I have is uncut but I have no concept of how much will extend up from the top tube once installed, but I can have it cut to the "right" height as needed.
I prefer it to be relatively tall head tube but with a shorter stem for my arm length.
I also looked up the CC brand spacers for the CC headset, and based on the height of my current headset, I will get 10mm spacers.
I have to replace my current stem to a 1-1/8 unit so I went looking so I waded through the long list of stems and think this is a good choice for me:
Easton Haven Stem 55mm in mag color
I want the 55-60 mm length and it will match nicely with my Easton Haven Carbon Bar and Easton Carbon Seat Post.
It is a zero rise stem, but like I said my uncut fork should give me all the height I want.
I also looked at this 30 deg riser stem as a way to boost my height if necessary:
Ritchey 30 Degree Comp Stem
Do you all feel there is any perceivable pro / con on the trails with a 1-1/8 steering tube instead of the 1.5 on your bikes?
Cannondale part # KP 058 is their "official" part to reduce SI headsets to 1.125" stearer tubes.
Headset reduction to 1 1 / 8 " - Dr. Cannondale
If have one laying around that was installed but never ridden. PM me if you're interested.
I do not think this kit for the headshok applies to me.
Originally Posted by driver bob
Please let me know?
Well I went ahead and order the new headset with spacers and a new stem.
Cane Creek 110 ZS 49 conversion headset (black) = $150
Cane Creek Interlocking spacers 4x10mm + 2x5mm + 2x 2.5mm (black) = $60
Easton Haven Mountain Bike Stem (Black and Mag) = $110
I could have saved about $75 by going with the CC 40 series instead of the 110 but the 110 offers a few internal design features that better stabilize a smaller (1-1/8) steering tube.
I could have also saved $ on the interlocking spacers, but I want to know they will fit perfect when I go to assemble it all, on the first try.
Last edited by Trail_Blazer; 08-12-2012 at 12:45 AM.
Irrelevant now but that kit converts any Cannondale SI headtube to 1.125" standard stearer tube.
Originally Posted by schristie11
You're 100% that the CC110 will work? I only ask because I remember this thread from way back.
Reducer headset for a Taurine frame.
The KP058 100% fits a Flash frame with SI headtube.
Last edited by driver bob; 08-12-2012 at 06:42 AM.
When I changed my fork from 1.5" to a tapered I changed the headset with the Cane Creek 40 and had no issues with the install. The 110 just had a better warranty and internals IIRC, so the OP should be good...assuming they got the correct parts. I called CC and spoke to them to make sure I got the correct setup.
To OP's other question about 1 1/8" response on the trails with 1.5" frame...to each their own. Personally, I liked the fact that I could use a tapered steerer for a stronger/more solid feeling front end.
I called Cannondale (twice to confirm) they said the Cannondale Trail SL4,3,2 models use a standard 1.5" headtube and the cane creak will fit perfect and they even recommend it.
I called cane creek and they verified the same thing.
However, I was told the Flash and some other models which say 1.5" on the head tube are actually a few mm larger and a regular 1.5" headset wont fit them.
There is a special headset for those models apparently.
The new parts look good!
What's with the LBS saying it's not worth their time? Sounds like you need to find a new LBS. That kind of response from mine would make me never shop there again!
"If it's not worth your time to help me, then it's not worth my time to shop here." Would have been a good rebuttal!
SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!
It is looking nice. You definately got a sweet deal on that fork!
What did you put in that sandwich?
Nice! Thank you SO MUCH for the post! This just saved me a BUNCH of time. I'm trying to upgrade the same exact bike after the stock fork failed. I got so confused with the whole "integrated headset system" and non-standard 1.5" headset. Gone on any rides yet? How does it feel? I may go with your setup to simplify things.
Question - what are the spacers for and where can I get them? I google search came up unfruitful.
EDIT - Nevermind found these Cane Creek 110 Series Interlok 5/10mm Spacer Black, how many is needed or how to I figure that out?
I measured (using a regular tape measure) the current height of my headset from the frame to the top of the headset.
It was about 50mm.
I knew might actuallt want it taller so I bought 60mm of spacers.
The cane creek locking spacers are very expensive but they fit perfect with their headsets.
I have had past issues with spacers that were not locking shifting around and also the headset cap not properly fitting the spacers.
So I paid the premium to get the cane creek spacers.
You may want to google or mtbr search for people using the CC headsets and what other spacers fit well.
ok, so if I'm looking at your bike pictures correctly, you have x2 10m spacers and x1 5mm spacers under the stem and the same on top? But I can just cut the steerer shorter to eliminate the spacers on top?
Yes it can be cut to any length.
I left it long just in case I wanted to raise my stem, which I did.
I moved the spacers down and the stem up with only a 2.5mm +cap at the top.
Sorry for the digging out 2year old thread...
Just want to make sure before I brake something.
The two bearings that are installed in the head tube (in the CDale SI head tube) needs to be pushed out before installing the 1 1/8 reducer, right?
The reducer could potentially work with your old bearings. But I recommend getting bearings that match thr new headset so the seams fit tightest and minimize gaps.
Hi Trail_Blazer, i need some help from you!
I have a Cannondale Trail SL2 (2012), and i'm going to change the steerer (i've bought a Magura TS8R Tappered). I need to put a reducer, but i don't know what i need...
can you give me some information? thanks!
The best thing to do is call cane creak directly and speak to their sales or techs. They will tell you the exact model to order.
They have so many its easy to choose wrong.
I have done it both ways. LoL
Get your bike specs from the cannondale website ready before calling also you can look on bike pedia for the specs of head tube size top and bottom and the size of your fork.
One hint i can give is.
You will want an internal top and internal bottom and dont forget the bottom cover which seals it.
The cover often has to be hammered onto the fork with a tool.
You should also get two or three 2.5 5 10mm locking spacers from cane creak to go above and under the stem for handlebars.
The Headset is the Tange Seiki 1'5", in a frame Trail SL, like your old SL4 :P
Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer
I think, i only need the internal top for change the steerer.
When you call them they want to know the milimeter spacing of the top and bottom because 1.5" isnt the way canecreek measures some parts are only in mm.
I was glad to replace the old bottom unit as it was full of crud and didnt have a sealed bearing. The replacement unit from canecreek is pretty cheap but well made and sealed good, imho worth it.
Originally Posted by kune
Kune, I spent a lot of time researching this when I changed the fork on my 2012 Trail SL 3. Like you have, I went for a tapered fork and got the lbs to fit everything.
Here is what I went with - from Hopes 'pick and mix' range:
Hope Top cup 4 (This is a Zero Stack / internal upper)
Hope Bottom cup F (Traditional / External cup lower)
I can confirm 100% that this works for my tapered fork set up on the 1.5 frame.
I'm going to assume you're not from the UK (where Hope is based) so you'll probably be looking at Cane creek as a better option?
If that's the case, the equivalent headset(s) should be:
Cane Creek (40 series) ZS49 (28.6 step down) Top
Cane Creek (40 series) EC49 Bottom
I'm 90% sure these should work with your frame/fork **IF THE SL 4 HAS THE SAME FRAME AS THE SL 3** as like I said they are the Cane Creek equivalent of the Hope ones I mentioned, but as Trailblazer said might be an idea to check with them first.
You are probably right about only having to change the top headset as the lower part of the steerer is still 1.5 however, I changed the lower as well as it's a better unit than the Tange.
Don't forget that you will need to change your stem and spacers also to 1 1/8!
On the first page in post #3 I told the details of exactly which models and sized worked on my bike.
This is sound advice, as MM are far more accurate than inches and headset parts CAN be inconsistent in size, just like anything else. Good advice. Precision is key for choosing parts to spec.
Originally Posted by Trail_Blazer