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  1. #1
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    scalpel shock removal?

    does anyone know what's involved to remove the rear shock on a scalpel with three-piece shock linkage? do I have to totally remove the shock to service the air chamber in the Fox shock. any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Shock must be removed to completely service the http://www.cannondale.com/bikes/tech/pdfs/TN004.pdf

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by dang
    does anyone know what's involved to remove the rear shock on a scalpel with three-piece shock linkage? do I have to totally remove the shock to service the air chamber in the Fox shock. any help would be appreciated.
    I have a .PDF that shows what you need to do but it is too large to upload. Send me an email to james gardner at cannondale dot com and I will forward it along to you.

    James

  4. #4
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    Any chance you can send a PDF on how to fully service a Carbon Lefty including how to use the special tools?

  5. #5
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    I went throught the painful process a couple of weeks ago when my Fox was leaking air. Thankfully, a $4 main rubber seal was all that it took to fix the problem. Since I didn't have the special tool for that fancy nut removal, I though I'd be smart and remove the swing link from the seat stays and shock from the seat tube (essentially keeping the 3-piece link attached to the bottom of the shock). Unfortunately, you need to untread the shock body from the piston, so you're forced to remove the linkage to make enough room. I quickly figured out that snap ring pliers don't work on removing that fancy nut. Hence, I simply used a small channel lock wrench and removed the one nut. Then hammer the shaft (which travels through the bottom of the shock) off the one link which the outer nut has been removed.

    One thing that surprised me was how stiff the 3-piece link was. I'm surprised that Cannondale felt it required improvement. The main shaft has quite a tight fit and links/shaft ends are slotted to revent rotation. I would imagine the newer linkage could provide more plush shock performance b/c the bottom of the shock is held in place with bushing and could possibly have less binding. Now that I understand how the link is put together, it's a pretty simple process. Be sure to remember the plastic bushings when mounting the link to the seat tube.

  6. #6
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    Red Pin Spanner

    As shown in the link by Rich a few messages up (in the PDF) a red pin spanner is the right tool for the job of disassembling the link. I would imagine both the link and the nut got pretty mauled by the channel locks.

    James

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by James
    As shown in the link by Rich a few messages up (in the PDF) a red pin spanner is the right tool for the job of disassembling the link. I would imagine both the link and the nut got pretty mauled by the channel locks.

    James
    Actually, the nut doesn't look too bad (use a towel as a cushion between the two) - certainly no worse than if the bike had cuddled up to some rocks during an involuntary dismount. The link is quite open at that point so it's not an issue.

    I'm not disagreeing that the Cannondale tool would be better, but for those not wanting to spend the cash or are in a bind, there are more convient alternatives.

  8. #8
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    This is the tool to pull the old linkage apart and it's best to use an arbor press to assemble the unit again. Even better is to upgrade to the new Frog link. It's a much better design and you can remove your shock without having to take the whole link off.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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