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  1. #301
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    i'm using the blacx AM+ air. one ride with a dropper and i was a convert, but i haven't had enough time on the blacx to comment on it versus other designs.

    i have a reverb sitting here. i'm thinking i might sell the reverb. infinite adjustment doesn't really seem to be so necessary (for me) after riding the blacx.

    definitely recommend trying one. i was a hold-out for a long time thinking they were nice but unnecessary on my local trails, but after riding on i realize how often it is effective to raise/lower the post throughout a ride.
    What's the logic on dropper posts?


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  2. #302
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel2007 View Post
    S29ers rock. Lefties use air for compression I think?

    Hope this helps


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    That's correct...
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  3. #303
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    So there is only an air preload no low speed compression dampening on a lefty? Also is there a blow off on the lock out or is locked out is simply rigid.

  4. #304
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flboy View Post
    So there is only an air preload no low speed compression dampening on a lefty? Also is there a blow off on the lock out or is locked out is simply rigid.
    Does the cannot dale manual help with that detail?

    What lefty fork do you have?

  5. #305
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    No lefty yet, I am looking into a scalpel. I only saw rebound and air preload now that you mention it. However I really didn't look to find if there was a compression control knob.

  6. #306
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel2007 View Post
    Guys I wanted to know the following. As I'm in Australia winter and thus mud is here.

    Does anyone think a small rear plastic debris deflector that attaches to the upper seat stay and is say 3 inches above and below a good idea to stop mud and crap from filling up the shock linkages ?

    If you look at the position of the rear shock, it must get a battering from mud which then acts as grinding paste on the delicate shock mounts.

    Does anyone know of any guard commercially available ?

    Thanks

    29er on!!

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel2007 View Post
    What's the logic on dropper posts?


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    not 100% sure what you are trying to get at, but in the event this is a sincere question a dropper offers the ability to fine tune saddle height during a ride without stopping. pretty great and surprising how often you find you use the ability....when you don't have to stop to make the adjustment. makes for more enjoyable and faster riding, i find.

  8. #308
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel2007 View Post
    Guys I wanted to know the following. As I'm in Australia winter and thus mud is here.

    Does anyone think a small rear plastic debris deflector that attaches to the upper seat stay and is say 3 inches above and below a good idea to stop mud and crap from filling up the shock linkages ?

    If you look at the position of the rear shock, it must get a battering from mud which then acts as grinding paste on the delicate shock mounts.

    Does anyone know of any guard commercially available ?

    Thanks

    29er on!!
    seriously? i've never once had this issue on any MTB and don't foresee a problem on the scalpel.

  9. #309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flboy View Post
    So there is only an air preload no low speed compression dampening on a lefty? Also is there a blow off on the lock out or is locked out is simply rigid.
    lock-out is locked out; no blow-off. no compression tuning.

  10. #310
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    seriously? i've never once had this issue on any MTB and don't foresee a problem on the scalpel.

    Given the scalpel 29er hasnt been out that long, I find it difficult to understand your comment.

    I come from a motorcross background and rear shock protectors are standard.

    In any event I've ordered a rear shock guard from a CRF450R which I'll cut down.

    When it's done I'll add a pic on the forum.

  11. #311
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel2007 View Post
    Given the scalpel 29er hasnt been out that long, I find it difficult to understand your comment.

    I come from a motorcross background and rear shock protectors are standard.

    In any event I've ordered a rear shock guard from a CRF450R which I'll cut down.

    When it's done I'll add a pic on the forum.
    i'm not sure if you're being serious with your posts or not, but i'll give the benefit of the doubt. you're right -- the scalpel 29er has not been out all that long. however, it's pretty darn similar to many other mountain bikes in terms of shock placement, and i've never seen an issue here.

    yes, one needs to service their rear shock, but i see no reason to worry about the design of the scalpel 29er vs any other MTB in this regard.

    if all "new" bikes were actually a "new" design and not just more of a minor evolution, you might have a point.

    of course, you're welcome to do what you like and add weight if that makes you more comfortable. why not see if there is ACTUALLY a problem to solve before you implement the solution?

    you probably have wider tires that throw more mud and travel much further distances on your moto than your MTB, i'm guessing.

  12. #312
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    lock-out is locked out; no blow-off. no compression tuning.
    Actually, Lefty's have had a blowoff since the intro of the 2011 models. It's a pretty highty threshold, but it's there. (XLR & PBR).

    But unfortunately, no external low speed compression adjustment, you have to replace some internal components to tune the low speed damping feel. Cannondale isn't very forthcoming on how to make these adjustments either.

  13. #313
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    i'm not sure if you're being serious with your posts or not, but i'll give the benefit of the doubt. you're right -- the scalpel 29er has not been out all that long. however, it's pretty darn similar to many other mountain bikes in terms of shock placement, and i've never seen an issue here.

    yes, one needs to service their rear shock, but i see no reason to worry about the design of the scalpel 29er vs any other MTB in this regard.

    if all "new" bikes were actually a "new" design and not just more of a minor evolution, you might have a point.

    of course, you're welcome to do what you like and add weight if that makes you more comfortable. why not see if there is ACTUALLY a problem to solve before you implement the solution?

    you probably have wider tires that throw more mud and travel much further distances on your moto than your MTB, i'm guessing.
    We could get into a great debate here Teton with both sides having merit. There's no need to get defensive either - we all to different extents take counter measures on our beaut bikes - I noticed you use a frame skin as do I. Smart preventative care.

    I do prefer preventative care at minimum weight - the plastic guard will weigh maybe 30grams I'm guessing.

    Scalpel 29 Ride Report-imageuploadedbytapatalk1338679683.162501.jpg
    Scalpel 29 Ride Report-imageuploadedbytapatalk1338679705.469822.jpg

    It will keep the important area round rear shock and front derailleur far less muddy.

  14. #314
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    I just bought a roll of clear 3m type protective tape and covered the bottom of downtube, back of seatube, etc. to protect from scratching and crap..

    On another note, I am planning to put the stock RaRa on a nice Crest wheelset to save some weight, and use the stock wheels for some mud/AM riding tires... What's the biggest tire anyone's fit yet? I'm contemplating the Nobby Nic 2.35s or Ardent 2.4 (front)
    Quote Originally Posted by sickspeed16
    Your not all mountain unless your runnin' crushed dew cans..
    '12 Scalpel 29er Carbon 1
    '13 SuperSix EVO Red Racing

  15. #315
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvmdmechanic View Post
    I just bought a roll of clear 3m type protective tape and covered the bottom of downtube, back of seatube, etc. to protect from scratching and crap..

    On another note, I am planning to put the stock RaRa on a nice Crest wheelset to save some weight, and use the stock wheels for some mud/AM riding tires... What's the biggest tire anyone's fit yet? I'm contemplating the Nobby Nic 2.35s or Ardent 2.4 (front)
    I'm running Racing Ralphs 2.4 in the front with no issues at all..tubeless @ 24lbs. I weigh 220lb with gear....
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  16. #316
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvmdmechanic View Post
    IOn another note, I am planning to put the stock RaRa on a nice Crest wheelset to save some weight, and use the stock wheels for some mud/AM riding tires... What's the biggest tire anyone's fit yet? I'm contemplating the Nobby Nic 2.35s or Ardent 2.4 (front)
    I run nobby nic's on a second set of wheels for muddy/wet conditions. I just ran them front and back at the Mohican 100 this past weekend. They are awesome tires for the right condition. I use the 2.25s on both. Ive not had any front wheel issues with the 2.25. I run the snake skin version as well due to rocks etc.

    That being said the ardent 2.4 is a great tire too but not for mud so much. A lot of friends ran ardents for Syllamo at around 13psi on the rocks and loved it.

  17. #317
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    Bar finally came in...
    FSA 670mm Bar 130gr. on Scale.
    I guess it's from 130gr-139gr.
    in my experience, that park scale can be off from 0 to 20 grams or so. it's not that accurate for lighter objects, when i've compared said objects to better scales that read with more precision.

    i weighed 3 FSA bars -- the 670mm OS version. they came to 150-155 each.

    to me, the fact that you have a 130g version (IF your park scale is spot-on) speaks to FSA's variation. not so psyched about potential variation of 30g (yours COULD be 125g) on a 150g item....esp for something as critical as bars. wonder where yours wind up thinner?

  18. #318
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    [QUOTE=rvmdmechanic;9372395]I just bought a roll of clear 3m type protective tape and covered the bottom of downtube, back of seatube, etc. to protect from scratching and crap..

    Where did you find a roll of that film? I really want to do my downtube as well.

    Thanks!
    R

  19. #319
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    Great Thread! I just ordered my Scalpel Carbon 2. I plan on getting a reverb for it and am wondering how much insertion there is on a medium before you run into pivots, seat tube bend etc. The post is available in 380mm or 420mm with a 125mm drop.
    Thanks

  20. #320
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    [QUOTE=Odie-r;9377488]
    Quote Originally Posted by rvmdmechanic View Post
    I just bought a roll of clear 3m type protective tape and covered the bottom of downtube, back of seatube, etc. to protect from scratching and crap..

    Where did you find a roll of that film? I really want to do my downtube as well.

    Thanks!
    R
    this is the one i use:
    Amazon.com: ISC Helicopter-OG Surface Guard Tape (8 mil Outdoor Grade): 1 in. x 30 ft. (Transparent): Automotive

  21. #321
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott54 View Post
    Great Thread! I just ordered my Scalpel Carbon 2. I plan on getting a reverb for it and am wondering how much insertion there is on a medium before you run into pivots, seat tube bend etc. The post is available in 380mm or 420mm with a 125mm drop.
    Thanks
    scott--do a search for reverb's and this a huge thread that lists all the data on them--like distance from the bottom to the collar, collar height, etc.

    min insertion is ~80mm for both versions. on a large frame i have no issues whatsoever--the scalpel's seat tube is pretty long and there doesn't appear to be an obstruction. however, i have the 380 version, though it is nearly inserted the full way.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel2007 View Post
    We could get into a great debate here Teton with both sides having merit. There's no need to get defensive either - we all to different extents take counter measures on our beaut bikes - I noticed you use a frame skin as do I. Smart preventative care.

    I do prefer preventative care at minimum weight - the plastic guard will weigh maybe 30grams I'm guessing.

    It will keep the important area round rear shock and front derailleur far less muddy.
    not defensive at all--we're all entitled to do whatever we like.

    i don't think a frame-skin under the down tube is analogous and here's why: i KNOW a DT gets hit with rocks from past experience with MTBs.

    you are guessing that mud on the rear shock is an issue (it might be, but no one has as yet experienced it and i've not ever seen it be a problem with any modern MTB i've ridden), and you are basing that on your experience with moto's.

    fair enough--but at the moment the frame skin solves an actual problem for MTBs and the other protector is a theoretical one.

    i can understand the point that for 30g you'd rather not take the chance to even have to clean it one time, but personally i'm electing not to look for a solution to a problem that doesn't exist.

    post a pic when you have done the mount.

  23. #323
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    Quote Originally Posted by brentos View Post
    Actually, Lefty's have had a blowoff since the intro of the 2011 models. It's a pretty highty threshold, but it's there. (XLR & PBR).

    But unfortunately, no external low speed compression adjustment, you have to replace some internal components to tune the low speed damping feel. Cannondale isn't very forthcoming on how to make these adjustments either.
    thank you! i didn't know this and must have missed it in the manual. i don't believe it's user-adjustable, though, correct?

    replacing internal components doesn't lend itself well to trial and error to get the LSC right, so probably best for most to leave it at the factory setting for most.

  24. #324
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    scott--do a search for reverb's and this a huge thread that lists all the data on them--like distance from the bottom to the collar, collar height, etc.

    min insertion is ~80mm for both versions. on a large frame i have no issues whatsoever--the scalpel's seat tube is pretty long and there doesn't appear to be an obstruction. however, i have the 380 version, though it is nearly inserted the full way.
    Thank you very much. I hate to add weight because it's easy to get caught up in the whole weight weenie thing when you start out with such a light bike but I have forgotten how to descend knarly stuff with my seat up. I used to do it without thinking but my convert to a dropper has ruined me for life.

  25. #325
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott54 View Post
    Thank you very much. I hate to add weight because it's easy to get caught up in the whole weight weenie thing when you start out with such a light bike but I have forgotten how to descend knarly stuff with my seat up. I used to do it without thinking but my convert to a dropper has ruined me for life.
    On the contrary, when you learn how to use the adj seat post is when the real fun begins...
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  26. #326
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    Agreed

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by rvmdmechanic View Post
    I just bought a roll of clear 3m type protective tape and covered the bottom of downtube, back of seatube, etc. to protect from scratching and crap..

    On another note, I am planning to put the stock RaRa on a nice Crest wheelset to save some weight, and use the stock wheels for some mud/AM riding tires... What's the biggest tire anyone's fit yet? I'm contemplating the Nobby Nic 2.35s or Ardent 2.4 (front)
    I put on Nic 2.35 yesterday, snakeskin version. Tubeless was no hassle on the stock Arch wheels on my Scalpel 2. Good clearence, no touching the frame eiher on yesterdays 18km ride.

  28. #328
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    I'm thinking about replacing RT3 with Fox Float RP23. Is 165 / 38 mm correct rear shock measurements? Thanks.
    Last edited by somebodyelse; 06-09-2012 at 11:04 AM.

  29. #329
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    Since I can't create a new post (still too much of a newbie), i'll ask here... i'm looking to put an adjustable seatpost on my 29er Ultimate. Any recommendations? Leaning towards the Reverb at the moment. I'm also interested in cable routing, I have a medium frame.

  30. #330
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    Quote Originally Posted by spoovy View Post
    Since I can't create a new post (still too much of a newbie), i'll ask here... i'm looking to put an adjustable seatpost on my 29er Ultimate. Any recommendations? Leaning towards the Reverb at the moment. I'm also interested in cable routing, I have a medium frame.
    I have the new crank bro on order, due to arrive Wednesday...
    I let you know.I have a Scalpel 1.
    I'll post pics after the install.

    BTW... how are you liking the ultimate so far?
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  31. #331
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    The Kronolog? Please do. I am concerned at the reports of erectile dysfunction :-)

    I noticed that FOX just released their D.O.S.S. post - probably too early for reviews, but interested in any feedback from folks.

  32. #332
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post

    BTW... how are you liking the ultimate so far?
    Love the Ultimate. Definitely a bike i'm still growing into, but no complaints at all (although maybe I wish they included an adjustable seat post )

  33. #333
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    What does one think a month old medium Scalpel 2 29r would go for...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scalpel 29 Ride Report-scalpel-29.jpg  


  34. #334
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHS View Post
    What does one think a month old medium Scalpel 2 29r would go for...
    Did you buy it at a LBS or online?

    Your LBS should be a good place to deal with towards the purchase of another bike.

    If your just returning it or don't want another bike, they should give you a decent return of your money.

    That's why a good LBS are so important.
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    Did you buy it at a LBS or online?

    Your LBS should be a good place to deal with towards the purchase of another bike.

    If your just returning it or don't want another bike, they should give you a decent return of your money.

    That's why a good LBS are so important.
    I bought the Scalpel at a LBS. I am thinking of selling it because I enjoy riding my rigid single speed more. The Scalpel is a fantastic bike and my aging back might hate me for letting it go. I had the Scalpel arrive shortly before my single speed was complete and find myself going for the ss more.
    The Scalpel is extremely comfortable and responsive with very little "suspension bobbing" when climbing. That is one of the features that drew me to it to begin with, but I enjoy the rigid ss more.

  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by PHS View Post
    I bought the Scalpel at a LBS. I am thinking of selling it because I enjoy riding my rigid single speed more. The Scalpel is a fantastic bike and my aging back might hate me for letting it go. I had the Scalpel arrive shortly before my single speed was complete and find myself going for the ss more.
    The Scalpel is extremely comfortable and responsive with very little "suspension bobbing" when climbing. That is one of the features that drew me to it to begin with, but I enjoy the rigid ss more.
    I luv my Scalpel too. I don't know but I think the biggest problem you'll have will be selling such a new bike without the possibility of a warranty to the new buyer. My local LBS would buy back the bike if it was with-in 30 days at a 20-25% discount. See if your LBS would do the same.
    Good Luck to you...

    PM me and let me know what you want for it if not. I'll try and see if anyone I know is interested.
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  37. #337
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    Dang, I would love your Scalpel too!!!! My back loves FS!!!!

  38. #338
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    scalpel

    Same bike in a Large sold for $4000 on PinkBike last week. Drop me a line if you think you want to sell yours, I would be interested.

  39. #339
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    How silent / loud is your RT3? Mine sounds like stepping on a duck, extremely loud, both in up and down directions.

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    Quote Originally Posted by somebodyelse View Post
    How silent / loud is your RT3? Mine sounds like stepping on a duck, extremely loud, both in up and down directions.
    My second RT3 is very silent, can't really hear it when riding.
    The first one puked oil all over the bike at the first ride, though with some strange noises. Got it replaced.

    But I wonder how other RT3s perform in the "max gate" setting. Is the shock then completely locked on your bikes (with a blow off) like the Lefty?

  41. #341
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    Far from locked, but comparing RT3 to RP2 I had on my previous previous bike, it does feel pretty stiff at 180 psi and at "locked" position. Almost like a hardtail, w/ Lefty locked, which is great. Not very sensitive though.

    Got my RT3 serviced as well, after first ride it lost air (down to 90psi) and started making those funny "duck" noises. I got it services, but loud noise remains.

    Really thinking about getting Fox RP23 with Kashima (2012). I loved how you can ride at super sensitive 130 - 140 psi w/ RP2, while propedal still works wonders. I hope RP23 to be all that and more.

  42. #342
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    Quote Originally Posted by somebodyelse View Post
    How silent / loud is your RT3? Mine sounds like stepping on a duck, extremely loud, both in up and down directions.
    What the heck, haha. Mine is totally silent, its never made a noise.

    It does leak air though, I need to address that.

    Ive had rp23's and the RT3. I like the RT3 a LOT better than and rp23 ive ever ridden. I would not switch to a RP23. If anything get your RT3 tuned for you.

    Other than it leaking air I really like it. I ride with 10psi more than my weight in the rear. 70% exactly in the front. Tried a lot of different settings, works best for me for most trails.

  43. #343
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    zeeke, is your RT3 "no bob" locked in the max gate setting? Can you feel a different between mid and max gate? I ask because I wonder if something is wrong with mine.

    How about all you Scalpel 1 riders with RP23s? Do you have a "no bob" lock setting?

  44. #344
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    Quote Originally Posted by daktari View Post
    zeeke, is your RT3 "no bob" locked in the max gate setting? Can you feel a different between mid and max gate? I ask because I wonder if something is wrong with mine.

    How about all you Scalpel 1 riders with RP23s? Do you have a "no bob" lock setting?
    I did ride in the max setting always. But lately ive found that if I run more PSI and move to the mid option (ie lever bar towards rear of bike) it works better for me. Yes I can tell a difference. With more PSI than my weight and max it was a bit rough.

    Reverse was true as well, with body weight and max it was not working on steep climbs for me. Now with 10 more PSI than weight and mid its a happier mix of both climb and descend.

    But like I said mine is for sure leaking air. Ill get it looked at after lumberjack this weekend. Its not dumping air but in 2-3 days its way low.

  45. #345
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    Hi guys what are suitable handlebar options for a scalpel 1 29er that has less sweep back?

    Basically I'm chasing a straighter handlebar from stock as the stock truvativ has far too much sweep back on it.

    Thanks guys

  46. #346
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    Selling a Medium Scalpel #1.....check out 29er bikes for sale....
    Just ride and quit bit$hin.......Yeti SB5+..SIR9 SS...CD Synapse DA...

  47. #347
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    Just got my Carbon 2 yesterday and today spent 2,5hrs riding, adjusting, riding, adjusting... Two things were very annoying: loose crank and badly centered back brake calliber. Crank was easy to fix, the brake didnt seem to "stay in place", even though I first loosened the bolts, squeezed the brake hard and I tried to tighten the bolts hard enough. Still the annoying drag returned a bit. Other fine tuning was related to riding position and suspension, which is natural.

    Couple of questions releated to Lefty and Monarch RT3 which are both new to me.

    1. Does the Lefty take time to break, start to operate as smooth as possible? I heard so good things about it that I expected it to be smoothier, especially in first part of the stroke. I weigh 195, what PSI should I start with?

    2. Does the RT3 take time to break? My initial feeling is that using 25% sag makes it a bit too hard on the most open setting. For that sag I need to use about the same or a bit more psi than my weight. It also gives a noticiable sshishh sound on a bigger bounce. Is that normal? The sound is a bit louder than on my -08 Epic with brain open but I dont have any other comparison.

    Other than this, the bike feels fast. I felt like running out of bounds on my local trail and that is probably due to the nice rolling over the small to medium sized roots and rocks.

  48. #348
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    1. I use 130 PSI in the Lefty. My weigth is 80 kgs. You will use a few hours to find the perfect setting for your style and terrain.
    2 On the rear I use 165 psi in the RT3 which gives me 30% sag. Better for my trails, which are quite rough. I would not worry about the sound unless the damper doesn't function properly, like if the rebound is to fast and can't be set slow enough.

  49. #349
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    I have a carbon 2 as well.

    1. The lefty should feel good out of the box, maybe a slight break-in. Mine did not feel so good and it's probably what you are describing. It felt very stiff off the top, not very plush. To fix this, I turned the gold knob on the lockout push button. I can't remember which way I turned it, but I think all the way open. This is the knob the manual tells you not to touch. My lefty was behaving as if it were slightly locked out and the lockout did not work very well until I adjusted this. I run about 140 psi or a little less. On my lefty max 130 I was running around 120psi.

    2. Again, I don't think the rear shock needs a break-in period. I weigh 190 with gear and at 25% sag, I found mind to be a bit too stiff and not enough suspension action over small bumps. I have backed down to about just under 30% sag and it's better. I run about 180-185psi. Mine is pretty much silent.

    3. My crank also loosened up, I just torqued it down and it's been fine since.

    My only other issues are creaking. The OPI stem was fairly loud, so I took it apart and put a ton of grease on it and it's been much quieter. The seat has also been creaky, but again, I just added some lube to the problem areas and it's been fine.

    The bike is very very fast, the biggest thing I notice is acceleration, it just moves when you push it.

    -Steve

    Quote Originally Posted by Juza72 View Post
    Just got my Carbon 2 yesterday and today spent 2,5hrs riding, adjusting, riding, adjusting... Two things were very annoying: loose crank and badly centered back brake calliber. Crank was easy to fix, the brake didnt seem to "stay in place", even though I first loosened the bolts, squeezed the brake hard and I tried to tighten the bolts hard enough. Still the annoying drag returned a bit. Other fine tuning was related to riding position and suspension, which is natural.

    Couple of questions releated to Lefty and Monarch RT3 which are both new to me.

    1. Does the Lefty take time to break, start to operate as smooth as possible? I heard so good things about it that I expected it to be smoothier, especially in first part of the stroke. I weigh 195, what PSI should I start with?

    2. Does the RT3 take time to break? My initial feeling is that using 25% sag makes it a bit too hard on the most open setting. For that sag I need to use about the same or a bit more psi than my weight. It also gives a noticiable sshishh sound on a bigger bounce. Is that normal? The sound is a bit louder than on my -08 Epic with brain open but I dont have any other comparison.

    Other than this, the bike feels fast. I felt like running out of bounds on my local trail and that is probably due to the nice rolling over the small to medium sized roots and rocks.
    12 Scalpel 2
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  50. #350
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    Any speculations for the 2013 Scalpel 29er Carbon? I'm gonna wait for the new version because of the new Lefty, but I was wondering if there were other rumors going on...

  51. #351
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    Thanks Steve and daktari for your insight. My problem on evaluating the fork is that I don't have any experience or comparison to other Lefties. Only immediate comparison is done against -08 Fox 100RL and -09 Reba Race of my old and my wife's bike. The compression all the way is much better on the new Lefty, the travel seems way longer than the other two which are also 100mm. But the initial "sensitivity" is something that I expected more of based on the high appraisal on this forum and elsewhere. Maybe I should touch the "forbidden knob" as well... Why do they state in the manual that it shouldn't be touched? What does it do and why is it there if it's not to be used?

    Can you guys tell me what the a2c (from the middle of the axle to the top of the crown) in the 29er 100mm XLR is supposed to be? Just wanna make sure that the basics are ok...

    I read from somewhere else about experience on RT3 that it became less harsh after a couple of rides. I also used about 30% sag and it was better than 20-25%.

    -j-

  52. #352
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    Quote Originally Posted by Luvlektrik View Post
    Any speculations for the 2013 Scalpel 29er Carbon
    2013 Scalpel 29er should be the same as 2012 model, I believe.

    -

    Btw, I've replaced RT3 with RP23 with Kashima. Very happy with it, way more sensitive (190psi, sag 20%) at "0" (open) position and pretty firm at "3" (propedal at max).

  53. #353
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    If it does not move through the travel freely and feel plush on the top, then something is up. I just came off a 2011 Reba Race, which was nice, no complaints, but the lefty just disappears it just works so well for me. I'm pretty sure the knob adjusts the lockout engagement, but don't take my word for it. Making that adjustment resolved my issue.

    Steve

    Quote Originally Posted by Juza72 View Post
    Thanks Steve and daktari for your insight. My problem on evaluating the fork is that I don't have any experience or comparison to other Lefties. Only immediate comparison is done against -08 Fox 100RL and -09 Reba Race of my old and my wife's bike. The compression all the way is much better on the new Lefty, the travel seems way longer than the other two which are also 100mm. But the initial "sensitivity" is something that I expected more of based on the high appraisal on this forum and elsewhere. Maybe I should touch the "forbidden knob" as well... Why do they state in the manual that it shouldn't be touched? What does it do and why is it there if it's not to be used?

    Can you guys tell me what the a2c (from the middle of the axle to the top of the crown) in the 29er 100mm XLR is supposed to be? Just wanna make sure that the basics are ok...

    I read from somewhere else about experience on RT3 that it became less harsh after a couple of rides. I also used about 30% sag and it was better than 20-25%.

    -j-
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  54. #354
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    Golden knob helped, all the way in, anti-GATE+, and the fork is smooth and sensitive right from the start! Should not do it (=by the manual) but it was the only thing that helped. What about the lock-out: should it be rigid but give in if you pressure it hard (while e.g. Standing by the side of the bike)?

    Another thing: does your fork give a little clonk sound when pulling the fork up, like topping out?

    The RT-3 is not working properly, I'm now convinced. Harsh, not sensitive even with 30% sag. Also the compression is too progressive for the first half of stroke. Is your shock tune MM? And is that right for the scalpel 29er geo (couldn't find chart/right numbers)? And the bottom line, wtf should I do with it? Changing it for a 400$ Fox does not apply, it is a brand new premium bike, god damn it!

  55. #355
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    Quote Originally Posted by Juza72 View Post
    Golden knob helped, all the way in, anti-GATE+, and the fork is smooth and sensitive right from the start! Should not do it (=by the manual) but it was the only thing that helped. What about the lock-out: should it be rigid but give in if you pressure it hard (while e.g. Standing by the side of the bike)?

    Another thing: does your fork give a little clonk sound when pulling the fork up, like topping out?

    The RT-3 is not working properly, I'm now convinced. Harsh, not sensitive even with 30% sag. Also the compression is too progressive for the first half of stroke. Is your shock tune MM? And is that right for the scalpel 29er geo (couldn't find chart/right numbers)? And the bottom line, wtf should I do with it? Changing it for a 400$ Fox does not apply, it is a brand new premium bike, god damn it!
    Go to your LBS for the service you deserve

  56. #356
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    I called the not-so-local LBS (7hrs drive). They said that it will break-in after a couple of rides and become more sensitive and plush. Let's see. At this point I'm not willing to send it back, the season is at it's best and the old bike must go, or at least stay in the carage...

    I found the Compression Tune Reference Chart in the net. Seems like the Medium tune (for the compression part) is right for Scal'29 since the leverage ratio is 2,6:1, or 2,63 to be exact. The shock is also Medium tune for rebound and that can't be far from the truth either, I guess?

    There's always the possibility to get it tuned specifically to me but that'll be in the program later if nothing else helps and service time is up anyway.

    -j-

  57. #357
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    Glad that helped.

    From what I understand there is a blow off when locked out, I've never tried it. As far as clunking sound, I don't have one. However when the bearings migrate you may start to experience a clunk and some play at the top, then it's time for a bearing reset.

    I don't know anything about the rear shock, it just works. I have just over a 100 miles on mine and it feels the same as day one, which is acceptable for me.

    Good luck.



    Quote Originally Posted by Juza72 View Post
    Golden knob helped, all the way in, anti-GATE+, and the fork is smooth and sensitive right from the start! Should not do it (=by the manual) but it was the only thing that helped. What about the lock-out: should it be rigid but give in if you pressure it hard (while e.g. Standing by the side of the bike)?

    Another thing: does your fork give a little clonk sound when pulling the fork up, like topping out?

    The RT-3 is not working properly, I'm now convinced. Harsh, not sensitive even with 30% sag. Also the compression is too progressive for the first half of stroke. Is your shock tune MM? And is that right for the scalpel 29er geo (couldn't find chart/right numbers)? And the bottom line, wtf should I do with it? Changing it for a 400$ Fox does not apply, it is a brand new premium bike, god damn it!
    12 Scalpel 2
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    11 EMD 9 - Retired

  58. #358
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    If 2013 brings us a longer travel 29er lefty, could a lefty modified to 120mm travel work well on the scalpel 29er?

  59. #359
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    Water Bottle Options for Med Frame Scalpel Owners

    What water bottle options have those of you with Med Scalpel frames settled on?


    I have a dozen Camelbak 21oz bottles that don't fit under the shock when mounted in a Specialized Zee Cage. That sucks because I race a lot of 50-100 mile endurance races.

    What options have worked for you guys on your medium frames? For larger frames I'm sure the issue is unlikely to exist.

    Thanks

  60. #360
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    I have a large, and, it fits but is much more difficult to get to compared to say, the flash with the shock in the way.

    I noticed in the manual it mentions a side entry specific cage, which I just ordered. Also, there are a host of seatpost water bottle mounts out there (I googled this last night in fact, bc I had the same problem!) for a secondary bottle (I hate hydration packs!)

  61. #361
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    Also, if you route the rear brake hose under the BB, instead of the cage mount, it lowers the water bottle cage a little. Not much, but it might make a difference for you.

  62. #362
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    thank you! i didn't know this and must have missed it in the manual. i don't believe it's user-adjustable, though, correct?

    replacing internal components doesn't lend itself well to trial and error to get the LSC right, so probably best for most to leave it at the factory setting for most.
    I believe the blowoff threshold is also internally adjustable. But again, I have yet to see any documentation from Cannondale on how exactly to do it.

  63. #363
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    I drilled new mounting holes in the cage and it helped (generic carbon cage with Camelback Podium bottles).

  64. #364
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    Could someone with a Scalpel 1 measure their axle to crown length??

    I am wondering if it is close to 500mm??

    Thanks

  65. #365
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    water in my frame and BB30 crank questions

    I've had my new carbon 2 for about a month now. My 1st race with it was the Test of Metal here in BC with record wet conditions. The next day while going over my bike I took my seat post out and heard a gurgling sound as I removed it. I flipped the bike over and filled my garage floor with muddy water. There was a massive amount of water in there. Took it to the shop a few days later to have them take a look at me BB and they said it was full of mud. 2nd race, same thing but less water. Anyone have a similar problem? I'm guessing it's getting in somehow through my seat post as I am running a shim for my 27.2 gravity dropper. Could have also submerged the BB, not sure. Has anyone tried drilling a drain hole in the BB?

    I developed a pretty annoying creak in my left crank arm so I torqued it down pretty tight. Today while removing my crank set I tried to take the left arm off but it wont come off. My drive side came off easy with the self-extracting bolt. I pulled everything apart leaving the BB attached to the left arm. Instead of wrecking things further I decided to put it back together and put the bolt back on the left side which I then noticed says "do not remove" Can someone confirm that the left side is supposed to stay attached to the BB and is not self-extracting? I'm hoping that this is the case rather than an over torqued left bolt.

    Thanks

  66. #366
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    Quote Originally Posted by tetonrider2 View Post
    took a while, but here's my build.

    comes to 22.5 pounds WITH a power meter and dropper post. the parts i chose are not to be particularly light but rather to be durable.

    this was a shot from the maiden voyage. i rode hard tempo up a 2 mile climb that averages 15%. my prior fastest time was 32:30, and this day i did it in 29:59. sure was fun on the way down!
    hi what bike do you use before to make the run of 32:30?

  67. #367
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    I did the BC Bike Race with my Carbon2 and had the same issue with the water into the frame. I'm riding with the stock seat post, so it is not your shim.

  68. #368
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    so how do you think it's getting in?

  69. #369
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    Quote Originally Posted by scott54 View Post
    so how do you think it's getting in?
    I ride with a buddy that has a 2012 Scalpel 2 carbon (all stock). I have a Flash Alloy 1. After each time we ride in wet/muddy conditions his bike is full of water/gunk when flipped over and mine is as dry as can be. Not sure where, but water getting in is definitely a problem. After each time he washes his bike he needs to flip it to the let water pour out of the seatpost....I have never had a problem. Sorry not much help, but it isn't your post causing this, it is the somewhere else on the bike. MAYBE underneath the head tube from water/mud kicking up off the tires. Even when riding in dry conditions though and all he does is simply wash his bike it gets full of water.....

  70. #370
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    Anymore thoughts on how the water is getting in? I'm in CO so haven't been in wet conditions yet....but there are some races on the horizon that could be wet so I want to be prepared...I have a Scalpel 1.

    By the way, anyone else have a problem with their BB30 wearing out in quick fashion? I only have 30 hours on mine and it already needs to be replaced. My shop says that they are noticing this with BB30 on all sorts of bike. I'm not amused to think I'm going to have to replace my BB every couple months.

  71. #371
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    Quote Originally Posted by R fast View Post
    hi what bike do you use before to make the run of 32:30?
    sorry--long delay. rarely check in here.

    prior fastest time was on a nicolai helius FR (heavy-ish frame, but light build--around 26# with easton havens (carbon)).

  72. #372
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teabaggers View Post
    Anymore thoughts on how the water is getting in? I'm in CO so haven't been in wet conditions yet....but there are some races on the horizon that could be wet so I want to be prepared...I have a Scalpel 1.

    By the way, anyone else have a problem with their BB30 wearing out in quick fashion? I only have 30 hours on mine and it already needs to be replaced. My shop says that they are noticing this with BB30 on all sorts of bike. I'm not amused to think I'm going to have to replace my BB every couple months.
    my scalpel is pf30, not bb30.

    i have owned/used no less than 8 frames (road, mountain bike, time trial) with bb30 or pf30. there is no problem with the standard itself.

    i presume you mean the bearings are wearing out, not the "bb30 wearing out." pf30 and bb30 use the same bearings. i would investigate every aspect of your crankset installation if you are getting premature bearing wear.

    however, you did say 'replace my BB...'.

    in a bb30 frameset (which the scalpel is not), the frame contains the bottom bracket. there is no replacing the bottom bracket.

    in a pf30 frameset, you replace the plastic cups that slot into the frame and hold the bearings. those plastic cups are basically disposable and are meant to be replaced when the bearings are replaced.

    again, i'm assuming you mean your bearings are wearing out and you are being a bit careless with terminology.

    something is wrong. i have many sets of bb30/pf30 bikes that have seen many hundreds of hours of use in all weather with no bearing issues.

  73. #373
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    So the carbon Scalpels are pretty light. And the Flash alloy vs carbon is roughly a pound or so difference in the frames weight. Hows the alloy scalpel weigh in?
    SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!

  74. #374
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    I rode a size large alloy scalpel this weekend in a test ride. We compared my large TITUS RX 29r. The Scalpel was 26 with no pedals and my TITUS was 29 with. I wasn't paying attention to the build though, only the size. I think it was a -3.

  75. #375
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teabaggers View Post
    Anymore thoughts on how the water is getting in?
    Not an owner here, just an observer, but I suspect that it may be entering via the downtube rather than seat tube - perhaps the cage mounts? That might result in it taking a different path out than in.

    Good luck to those with this problem. I'm watching since I'm tempted to buy one of these machines (former Scalpel 26 owner).

    -Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  76. #376
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    Newbe question

    On the scalpel carbon 1 or 2 can you get more travel from the lefty? Also how much clearance is between the stock tire and frame when bottomed out?

  77. #377
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    Quote Originally Posted by Teabaggers View Post
    By the way, anyone else have a problem with their BB30 wearing out in quick fashion? I only have 30 hours on mine and it already needs to be replaced. My shop says that they are noticing this with BB30 on all sorts of bike. I'm not amused to think I'm going to have to replace my BB every couple months.
    As the other reply mentioned, I don't think it's anything to do with the BB30 standard. If you have Hollowgrams, or probably most crank systems, the design is fairly well sealed. Certainly no worse than HT2, where the bearings are completely outboard (though not as good as the old square taper design). In either case, it would be very difficult to design a low friction system where water was completely excluded. You might be getting additional wear if the bearings aren't seated squarely but I find that unlikely - even if they're fitted poorly, the bearings should square up as the drive side crank tightens onto the axle and applies pressure that will tend to seat them squarely.

    The real problem with BB's, is the widespread use of plain steel bearings in a part of the bike that is frequently subject to water ingress. Stainless steel should be fitted as standard on all MTB's in my opinion. With a plain steel bearing, once the water gets in (and it will) they will start to rust. Once there's rust in there, the surfaces will wear really fast and the races will start to lock up as the rust particles fill up the spaces.

    Any bearing supplier should be able to supply you with a BB30 bearing in Stainless steel. The code is 6806. You can also pop the seals off when you get new bearings and make sure there's some grease in there. That will help to keep water out.

    I havn't had any luck finding stainless bearings for the lefty headset yet but at least they are less vulnerable up there out of the way.
    Last edited by jimification; 08-17-2012 at 06:45 AM.

  78. #378
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    I would be interested in buying this if it's still for sale.

  79. #379
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    I just had my PF30 bearings replaced on the Scalpel, last about 700miles. I think it's more like an a hit or miss, I never had any problem with the ceramic ones on the BB30 (Rize).

  80. #380
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    i got the scalpel 2 with monarch & get some bobing when pushing hard, i'll never ride with the shock open, except long downhill...

  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by 06z View Post
    On the scalpel carbon 1 or 2 can you get more travel from the lefty? Also how much clearance is between the stock tire and frame when bottomed out?
    don't think you can get more travel out of a lefty, but not positive....

  82. #382
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    Thanks,
    I was told 10 mm is all you can get. Might not be worth it. I will ride mine stock for now when ups delivers it!

  83. #383
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    Can someone please post pics of their dropper post install? Cable routing is what I'm really looking for. I get my Ultimate on Friday so I need ideas. Thanks in advance!

    I will start a new thread!

  84. #384
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    Hi.
    With regards to the water getting in problem.
    I just finished a 76 km race. The weather was terrible. It rained 50 mm! before and during the race. Extremely wet and muddy.
    After the race i could hear water inside my scalpel carbon 2 frame. I took off the seat post and poured out about one liter of mud/water.
    I found out that the fizik seat post is not sealed. This means that when the mud hits the underneath of the saddle it is getting sprayed right down into the frame.

    And by the way BB, steering fittings, rings, chain, cassette kaput!!! and brake pads worn all the way thru the metal so the pistons were also worn out.
    I am for sure changing to xx1 during this winter and taking this as a good opportunity to get rid of those silly avid brakes. Anyone else going for xx1? i am thinking 36 x 10-42.

  85. #385
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    Scalpel 1

    Bought her yesterday. 11 kg ...
    cant wait to ride uphill , never thought i would forget my Prophet so fast ,
    to buy this bike was the result of test riding uphill my friends Flash 29 after a 1700 hm ride ....


    lefty hybrid is very new for me ....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Scalpel 29 Ride Report-2012.jpg  


  86. #386
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    Prepared to take grief, I report buying a 1 on eBay. It creaked like mad. I got an occasional clicking noise from the rear when braking. I called the LBS and they said the clicking is from brake pads that aren't seated. I reinstalled and it still clicked, but it was only a few times per hour. I rode it two weekends attempting to grease and tighten bolts to no avail. I read the posts here of bottom bracket and head set creaks so I took it to the LBS. They greased the headset and overhauled the bottom bracket. I took it for a ride and it still creaked.The brake related clicking was still there too. The LBS then tore the bike down to find four rear suspension bearing shot, the clicking noise coming from a broken rear DT Swiss hub, and two cracks in the frame, one in the rear triangle at the brake mount and a larger one in the front triangle near the suspension linkage. The seller presented the bike as a 9.5 out of 10 with only 350 miles in the auction. Wow.The seller said he will not refund my money. I'm appealling this to the eBay dispute resolution center based on misrepresentation of the bike in the marketplace. They will issue a determination Thursday. If I lose I'll appeal it and seek the intervention of AmEx Customer Service. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Even if this gets resolved in my favor, as much as I love the bike, I'm not sure I trust the build enough to buy another. Anyone have similar problems or know of frame failure rates? Thanks.

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by MX_Lyrik View Post
    Bought her yesterday. 11 kg ...
    cant wait to ride uphill , never thought i would forget my Prophet so fast ,
    to buy this bike was the result of test riding uphill my friends Flash 29 after a 1700 hm ride ....


    lefty hybrid is very new for me ....
    Isn that 2012 year modell?? How com its have 2013 lefty modell? Or, did you change lefty for new one?
    Looks good

  88. #388
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    yes, it looks awesome. this is 2013 model.

  89. #389
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    Current fleet:
    2006 Scalpel 1000, Crossmax SLR wheels, SL110 lefty
    2009 Caffeine 29er, self built, DLR2 lefty
    2011 Trek Madone 3.1 (105 brake, race lite wheel upgrades)

    Proposed fleet:
    sell Scalpel with DLR2 and original Crossland wheelset installed ($800)
    sell Crossmax SLR wheelset ($250)
    install SL110 onto the 29er, keep 29er
    sell Madone ($1500)
    buy leftover 2012 Scalpel 29er Carbon 1 at a nice discount

    I became a father this past summer and the prospect of getting hit by a car on the road bike is much less palatable now. So, I'm totally OK with letting the road bike go. Despite a few nice upgrades to my Scalpel, I don't really ever ride it anymore and it only serves as my backup bike because I enjoy my 29er that much more. But, as I push up in age, I'm leaning more toward a FS. So, for relatively little investment, I can, I think, rearrange my small fleet to better fit my needs. I want the S29erC1 to be my go to bike and the 09 29er to become my backup. The Caffeine 29er hardtail is just a climbing monster and I love that about it. Am I going to be disappointed in the bob on the Scalpel or will it be that much better than my old school 06 Scalpel that I won't notice much bob when I'm on the 29er Scalpel? I feel like the 29er Scalpel will fit perfectly in keeping a racy, rigid platform under me while not being so damn unforgiving as my Caffeine. Thoughts?

  90. #390
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spider-Man View Post
    yes, it looks awesome. this is 2013 model.
    My LBS has some 2012 Scalpel 2 & 3 models with the new front shock...
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quentin View Post
    Current fleet:
    2006 Scalpel 1000, Crossmax SLR wheels, SL110 lefty
    2009 Caffeine 29er, self built, DLR2 lefty
    2011 Trek Madone 3.1 (105 brake, race lite wheel upgrades)

    Proposed fleet:
    sell Scalpel with DLR2 and original Crossland wheelset installed ($800)
    sell Crossmax SLR wheelset ($250)
    install SL110 onto the 29er, keep 29er
    sell Madone ($1500)
    buy leftover 2012 Scalpel 29er Carbon 1 at a nice discount

    I became a father this past summer and the prospect of getting hit by a car on the road bike is much less palatable now. So, I'm totally OK with letting the road bike go. Despite a few nice upgrades to my Scalpel, I don't really ever ride it anymore and it only serves as my backup bike because I enjoy my 29er that much more. But, as I push up in age, I'm leaning more toward a FS. So, for relatively little investment, I can, I think, rearrange my small fleet to better fit my needs. I want the S29erC1 to be my go to bike and the 09 29er to become my backup. The Caffeine 29er hardtail is just a climbing monster and I love that about it. Am I going to be disappointed in the bob on the Scalpel or will it be that much better than my old school 06 Scalpel that I won't notice much bob when I'm on the 29er Scalpel? I feel like the 29er Scalpel will fit perfectly in keeping a racy, rigid platform under me while not being so damn unforgiving as my Caffeine. Thoughts?
    If your interested... Large 2012 Scalpel 1 is forsale from my LBS for 5k. It's in mint codition... It belongs to the store manager... He's upgrading to an Ultimate...
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  92. #392
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    If your interested... Large 2012 Scalpel 1 is forsale from my LBS for 5k. It's in mint codition... It belongs to the store manager... He's upgrading to an Ultimate...
    I'm a solid medium.

    The bike was sold when I got there anyway. They were asking $4600.

  93. #393
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    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    My LBS has some 2012 Scalpel 2 & 3 models with the new front shock...
    So, it seems that, they didnt have old leftys anymore and have to replaced with new ones.
    I am still waiting for mine scalpel 1(2012) arrival to LBS.

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by xluossa View Post
    So, it seems that, they didnt have old leftys anymore and have to replaced with new ones.
    I am still waiting for mine scalpel 1(2012) arrival to LBS.
    I just test rode the new 2013 Scalpel 1 today at an Cannondale event...... The new front shock works AWESOME as advertised, buttery smooth... Looks great too... and as an added benefit to the 2102 model, you get the carbon rims and a lock out in the rear shock.
    You get full lockout front and rear or full suspension front and rear.
    Or a combination of both, just at the push of a button without ever having to get off the bike to do so, and in IMHO the best front shock in the industry.

    If you haven't gotten your bike yet, maybe a 2013 model may be on the way... I own a 2102 model and it rocks... either way you win.
    ENJOY THE RIDE!!!

  95. #395
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    My LBS found another Carbon 1 for me! Joy!

  96. #396
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quentin View Post
    My LBS found another Carbon 1 for me! Joy!


    Quote Originally Posted by torque29er View Post
    I just test rode the new 2013 Scalpel 1 today at an Cannondale event...... The new front shock works AWESOME as advertised, buttery smooth... Looks great too... and as an added benefit to the 2102 model, you get the carbon rims and a lock out in the rear shock.
    You get full lockout front and rear or full suspension front and rear.
    Or a combination of both, just at the push of a button without ever having to get off the bike to do so, and in IMHO the best front shock in the industry.

    If you haven't gotten your bike yet, maybe a 2013 model may be on the way... I own a 2102 model and it rocks... either way you win.
    The reason why i did order this year modell was price, 1k € cheaper. Reynolds carbon rims and new lefty in 2013 modell is cool. But this year modell has hollowgrams and xx parts.:
    And colour offcourse i like better 2012.
    Maybe if get lucky, i get this year modell with next year lefty

  97. #397
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    Quote Originally Posted by oakman View Post
    Hi.
    With regards to the water getting in problem.
    I just finished a 76 km race. The weather was terrible. It rained 50 mm! before and during the race. Extremely wet and muddy.
    After the race i could hear water inside my scalpel carbon 2 frame. I took off the seat post and poured out about one liter of mud/water.
    I found out that the fizik seat post is not sealed. This means that when the mud hits the underneath of the saddle it is getting sprayed right down into the frame.

    And by the way BB, steering fittings, rings, chain, cassette kaput!!! and brake pads worn all the way thru the metal so the pistons were also worn out.
    I am for sure changing to xx1 during this winter and taking this as a good opportunity to get rid of those silly avid brakes. Anyone else going for xx1? i am thinking 36 x 10-42.
    Thanks for tip! I have same seatpost in my prophet, and while making service i noticed, that frame was full of dryed mud. Seatpost is not sealed.
    Have to do something for that any idea??
    If i will get scalpel, it will have same proplem.
    I really like the idea for xx1 group, but having my first hollowgrams cranks with scalpel, i wanna keep them awile.

  98. #398
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    Just pick mine up the other day. Its a 2012 Scalpel 2 with XT brake upgrade. Saved over $500 getting the 12 version. Dont think its any different to the 13 except the boot on the front fork. I took it for a spin and wow, i never thought a lefty would feel so smooth. Im looking at getting a race wheelset built, just got to sort out the front hub situation

  99. #399
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    Lately my Scalpel developed a knocking sound when under load and I think it's coming from the main pivot / crankset area. It gets louder towards the end of the ride, and the noise damped down a bit after a wash / lubing the bike. It's more of a light knocking, not a creak. I've tried eliminating the possibilites,

    Seatpost - checked & greased
    Headse bearings - replaced & greased
    Pedals - checked
    Chainring bolts - checked & greased
    bottom bracket - replaced
    Shock bolts - checked
    Cassette - checked
    Frame - checked, no crack

    Any other suggestion? Or you guys having any similar noise (I know how sound travels through carbon frames)? I'm going to have my LBS to clean and inspect all the suspension linkages this Friday and see what they find. And ya the tech said most hi end mtbs tend to be noiser then other mtb...(!!!)

    I tend to ride my road bike more now since it's noise free.

  100. #400
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    Quote Originally Posted by hypercycler View Post
    Lately my Scalpel developed a knocking sound when under load and I think it's coming from the main pivot / crankset area. It gets louder towards the end of the ride, and the noise damped down a bit after a wash / lubing the bike. It's more of a light knocking, not a creak. I've tried eliminating the possibilites,

    Seatpost - checked & greased
    Headse bearings - replaced & greased
    Pedals - checked
    Chainring bolts - checked & greased
    bottom bracket - replaced
    Shock bolts - checked
    Cassette - checked
    Frame - checked, no crack

    Any other suggestion? Or you guys having any similar noise (I know how sound travels through carbon frames)? I'm going to have my LBS to clean and inspect all the suspension linkages this Friday and see what they find. And ya the tech said most hi end mtbs tend to be noiser then other mtb...(!!!)

    I tend to ride my road bike more now since it's noise free.
    Any chance it's cable slap? If the housing is not full length, clean and lube each ferrule where it meets the frame. If full length, make sure the tie-downs are not the culprit.

    Other things to check:

    Seat clamp/rails
    Rear axle bolt (assume you got this with the cassette check, though)
    Derailleur bolt (once had a Sram derailleur that needed the bolt removed, cleaned and lubed - that one was tough to track down, and it was causing a light knocking sound like you are having)
    Hanger bolt

    Good luck,
    Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

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