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Thread: RZ Creaking

  1. #1
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    RZ Creaking

    Hi all, I have a 2010 RZ 120-3 bought March 2010... It has developed a annoying creaking coming from somewhere on the frame when im pedaling... my LBS who are very good tore it apart, rebuilt the head set, broke down the BB and put it back together... its still doing it!! The Cannondale rep was standing over them while they were doing all the work and he could not figure it out either.. His thought is that the BB is a BB30 adapeted with a metal sleeve pressed into it to accomadate a standard BB... he thinks the sleve is the issue... anyone been having this problem??
    Thanks,
    JEM2
    09 Marlin Disc
    2010 Cannondale RZ 120....
    2011 Trek XO Crossbike
    .......... __o
    ......... -\<
    ........(_)/(_)

  2. #2
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    I've had a similar issue on my Rize and it turned out to be the shock bushings... took me riding around with a bottle of tri-flow and putting drips on everything until the creak went away.

  3. #3
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    Of course - I get creaks all the time!

    I assume the creak still occurs when you're standing, thus elimintaing the seat post as a possibility?

    I'm also assuming the chainring bolts were checked? Pedals eliminated as a possible source?

    Also, has the rear skewer been cleaned up and lubed?

    When the BB30 adapter is installed, Locktite is used and it's supposed to set for 12 hours or something like that before use. Any chance the adapter was not properly installed or was not given sufficient time to set?

    My RZ has a BB30 BB, however, my last two Scalpel frames had a BB30 shell with the adapter and I had no BB issues at all, which is why if your creak is at the BB I'd suspect an installation error.

    -Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  4. #4
    bikeboatbrewski
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    lube your seat post

  5. #5
    I'm with stupid
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    my rize creak was seat post. Very annoying.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedalphile
    Of course - I get creaks all the time!

    I assume the creak still occurs when you're standing, thus elimintaing the seat post as a possibility?

    I'm also assuming the chainring bolts were checked? Pedals eliminated as a possible source?

    Also, has the rear skewer been cleaned up and lubed?

    When the BB30 adapter is installed, Locktite is used and it's supposed to set for 12 hours or something like that before use. Any chance the adapter was not properly installed or was not given sufficient time to set?

    My RZ has a BB30 BB, however, my last two Scalpel frames had a BB30 shell with the adapter and I had no BB issues at all, which is why if your creak is at the BB I'd suspect an installation error.

    -Pete
    Seat Post (Check all tight and good)

    Rear Skewer (Check all set)

    The bike sat in storage for weeks before use so i believe the adapter was set correctly.
    Headset torn apart and rebuilt

    My LBS put it back together for the ride last night and the issue is the BB.. For some reason the sleve that was installed has either gone bad or installed incorrectly.

    Cannondale rep was present during all work being performed and he is sending out a new sleve and tool for install, should be ready to test this afternoon..

    The funny thing is, it was creaking all over the place last night on the trail (which is a 3mile climb out of the gate) not any worse than usual.. when we were on the road heading home I was pulling a wheelie and this horriable grinding noise was coming from the BB.. I think it let loose...

    If this fix doesnt work im upgrading to BB30 crank!! any one have any comments/guidance for that change?
    Thanks,
    JEM
    09 Marlin Disc
    2010 Cannondale RZ 120....
    2011 Trek XO Crossbike
    .......... __o
    ......... -\<
    ........(_)/(_)

  7. #7
    Tool
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    Quote Originally Posted by JEM2
    If this fix doesnt work im upgrading to BB30 crank!! any one have any comments/guidance for that change?
    Thanks,
    JEM
    If you have the budget, I love my FSA K-force Light crankset.

    I was worried about carbon crankarms and rock strikes, but it's no issue at all. These arms are tough, and the arms are solid carbon from the inserts to the ends, so there is a lot of material there to take some dings. A periodic coating of clear nail polish keeps things looking new and adds some protection as well.

    This crankset shifts better than the Truvativ Stylio that I upgraded from.

    So far I'm loving the ceramic bearings in this crankset, too (~650 miles thus far). I've never pedaled anything that felt so smooooth.

    Good luck - hopefully the new adapter will put a smile on your face.
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  8. #8
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    I am still trying to hunt down the creak on my Rize. I only get the creak when pedaling. I have lubed every bolt and thread on the crank and bottom bracket but it still creaks.

  9. #9
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    if you ride clipless then check your shoes.

  10. #10
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    shoes (checked and everything is tight)
    JEM
    09 Marlin Disc
    2010 Cannondale RZ 120....
    2011 Trek XO Crossbike
    .......... __o
    ......... -\<
    ........(_)/(_)

  11. #11
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    I have creak too on my rize. Seems like it is coming somewhere from rear suspension linkage, because noise is coming only when the suspension plays... but what is creaking i can't find out...

  12. #12
    Tool
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vasiliyg
    I have creak too on my rize. Seems like it is coming somewhere from rear suspension linkage, because noise is coming only when the suspension plays... but what is creaking i can't find out...
    Don't forget to check the swingarm pivot bolt if you haven't already. Mine backed out enough after 700 miles to start creaking, and it was very hard to isolate where the noise was coming from.

    When my frame was new one of the bolts connecting the seat stays to the shock link backed out and caused a creak. Sometimes they skimp on the Locktite at the factory.

    Good luck,
    Pete
    I can barely get my mouth around it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedalphile
    Don't forget to check the swingarm pivot bolt if you haven't already. Mine backed out enough after 700 miles to start creaking, and it was very hard to isolate where the noise was coming from.

    When my frame was new one of the bolts connecting the seat stays to the shock link backed out and caused a creak. Sometimes they skimp on the Locktite at the factory.

    Good luck,
    Pete
    I've greased the BB30 bearings and spindle, still creaking.
    I've greased all shock link/seat stay bearings, still creaking.
    I didn't want to remove my FD to grease the swingarm pivot axle, so I opened him a little bit and greased the bearings and the axle and the creaking stopped.

    It started to creak after 700 km (435 miles)!

  14. #14
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    The bearings on the ends of the straps are under great pressure decay in a few hours you can see from the photos attached
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails RZ Creaking-img_4196.jpg  

    RZ Creaking-img_4199.jpg  


  15. #15
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    Flawed design with the Rize/RZ rear bearings. I love the way the way the bike performs but it's at a cost of high maintenance and bearing replacement in the rear seat stays. The bearings are about $8 each and you need locktite 638 @$30 a bottle to glue them in. Not to mention the pinch bolts and seat stay if you let the bearings go to o long.

  16. #16
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    expensive? don't think so

    $17 for http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-Retain.../dp/B000O05BSW

    the total is about a chain cost... personally I change a chain 3-4 times a year.

  17. #17
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    Well I guess I should have ordered it online as my local C-Dale dealer here in MA charged me $30 plus tax for the little 10ml bottle.

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