Finally got some decent res. pics for my Jekyll 900sx. This was at Mount Snow, VT this past weekend. Only thing that hasnt been replaced is the frame and rear shock. Destroyed the rear derailleur just the weekend before and replaced it just in time for the weekend.
Last edited by leftyjekyll; 08-26-2008 at 02:47 PM.
Reason: bad links.
Just a question for the jekyl community I have an 02 Jekyll and would like to upgrade the brakes from the magura Julie's with 4-bolt rotors. What are my options??
Just a question for the jekyl community I have an 02 Jekyll and would like to upgrade the brakes from the magura Julie's with 4-bolt rotors. What are my options??
Thanks Dennis
same here,. Im trying to upgrade my Jekyll's CODA brakes to Magura's but have a 4bolt disc. What are the options?? get new wheelsets that accomdates 6 bolt rotors ?
same here,. Im trying to upgrade my Jekyll's CODA brakes to Magura's but have a 4bolt disc. What are the options?? get new wheelsets that accomdates 6 bolt rotors ?
tia
You could use the old discs with new brakes so long as the calliper track and rotor size are right which should work fine…otherwise new hubs because I don’t think there is a 4 to 6 bolt adaptor.
Man, I never saw this thread. I haven't owned my Jekyll for a few years now, but heres what it looked like when it was my only bike. It was my first full suspension bike.
2003 Jekyll w/ Lefty Max TPC+
This pic is a few years old. I've replaced the XTR cranks w/ new XT's, the Selle Italia Flite saddle has been replaced w/ a WTB Rocket V, and I've upgraded my Magura Martas to 180mm rotors. I also had the rear shock revalved by Push Industries. I love this thing - It's still a fantastic ride! :D
The lefty is amazing! I don't know if I could ride anything else but a lefty from here on out! 2003 Jekyll 600. come springtime, it shall be a 1x9 with Juicys and some lighter wheels to boot!
It's only funny until someone gets hurt, and then it's hilarious.
--Bill Hicks
My shock mounts are becoming seriously noisy (creaking). After a couple years of milking it along by lubing the shock trunnion pivot bushings, I picked up a set of replacement mounts from my LBS. But I'm a bit leery of trying to press or pound out the old ones myself. Have any of you guys replaced the shock trunnion mount sleeves? How did you get the old ones out?
I was thinking about either pressing them out w/ a C-clamp & a socket or driving them out w/ a socket & hammer. I don't want to dork up my frame, though.
Here's my horse.Stud tires what a amazing grip they have Also original xt dual setup had to go.Now with formula puro power and xtr shifter.Planning to buy shadow rear derailleur, because now shifter works up side down.. Also easton carbon bar is waiting right stem to put on.
My fleet:
System six 08
Moto 1 08
Jekyll 1000(04)
Perp 3 (08)
It is pouring outside today so I brought her inside for a tune-up. When looking up torque specs I somehow stumbled across this page and was psyched to see so much Jekyll love. I humbly present to you my well loved/abused franken-jekyll. It started out as a Jekyll 500 which I stripped and built up custom....but then I cracked the front triangle in a crash and they sent me a jekyll 1000 front for replacement. Along with the totally custom dents and paint scratches, this bike features an upside down king headset, and a very rare and totally customized inner tube/electrical tape chainstay protector.
The suspension is handled by a 130mm Minute 2 up front, and I was lucky enough to chance upon a swinger 3 way for the rear. My LBS got one of the very rare Jekylls that came with this shock in for warranty replacement, and they were nice enough to let me rape it for parts before going into the trash. I was then even luckier to find another Swinger 3 way on ebay for cheap, so I have a backup shock in case this one blows up. The difference between the fox with pro-pedal and the adjustable 3-way with spv is night and day....the bike pedals like a hardtail now and still descends like a DH bike.
She won't die, she likes to be ridden rough, and she never talks back so I plan on keeping my "can-o-ale" as long as she will let me.
You can also see my one year old c-dale road bike in the background.....it ain't as fun as being on the trail but it sure is a sweet ride.
Well, as a follow up to last nights post, the rain cleared overnight and it was a beautiful morning so I took her out for a nice little spin on one of my favorite local trails. Thought I would share some pics of my Jekyll in her natural habitat.
For those who are tech geeks like me, I will also share some of the nitty gritty:
FORK: Manitou Minute 2 130mm
REAR SHOCK: Manitou Swinger 3 way with SPV
DRIVETRAIN: XT shifters, Crankset, Cassette, and Rear D (with a very old XTR Front D, the thing just won't die, it has been on 3 bikes!)
BRAKES: Avid BB7 Brakes with Avid Levers (I have yet to use better, and I have been through several sets of hydrolics)
CONTROLS: Thomson seatpost, FSA oversize Stem and Bar, SPZ BG Saddle, SRAM Grips
WHEELS: Handbuilt (by me!) King Hubs with DT-Swiss Competition spokes laced to a Mavic EX823 UST in the front and an EX717 Disc in the back. ***I have another EX823 rim for the rear ready to get laced, but the 717 just won't die.
TIRES: Continental Gravity 2.3
PEDALS: the same cheapo shimanos I use on all my bikes
I am a bigger guy so in the last couple years I have replaced my old weight-weeny parts with sturdy stuff and could not be happier. The bike weighs in right now at around 30lbs give or take, and I have had it as light as 27.7. It has incredibly quick handling, plush suspension, and amazing lateral stiffness.
Here is a picture of my old klunker taken last year on one of the few days it was clean. At my age it doesn't get a very hard workout and will probably outlast me.
My first XC rig, used for club rounds and the odd 50/100km ride:
Frame: Cannondale Jekyll 2002 XL
Fork: Lefty ELO Carbon/Titanium
Rear Shock: PUSHed Fox Float RL
Rear Der: Shimano XTR, Ti bolts
Front Der: Shimano XTR, Ti bolts
Shifters: Shimano XTR
Crankset: Cannondale CX2 29/44, Ti chainring bolts
Bottom bracket: Shimano Dura-ace Octalink
Cassette: Shimano XT 11-34
Chain: Sram 991
Brakes: Magura Louise, Ti bolts
Rotors: Hope Mono 160mm, Ti bolts
Hubs: Fr - Lefty Si, Rr - Cannondale/ DT Swiss
Rims: Mavic TXC 3.01 24h
Tyres: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.1
Pedals: Shimano XTR
Stem: Hope 110mm, Ti Bolts
Bars: FSA K-force carbon
Grips: Titec Pork Rinds
Seatpost: Thomson elite, Ti bolts
Saddle: Fizik Arione CX, carbon rails
Extras: Cateye Strada computer, Cannondale Immix cage.
Tips the scales at 11.1kg (24.5lb) in current spec with pedals, computer, etc. which is not bad for a 7 year old XL bike. Seems to do everything reasonably well.
This will be my 'do everything' bike until I decide to pull the trigger on a Flash 29er...
I love the Hope stem. I was running the original Syntace VRO system, but wanted something lighter. I swapped the stock bolts for some 6/4 Ti bolts. It came with a spacer, but I also swapped that out for a 1.5" carbon spacer that I Dremel'd out to fit the 1 9/16 steerer.
My Jekyll is my favorite still...... And it sees the trail the most.
I have a custom Lefty
all XTR drivetrain
Hayes carbon brakes
Maxxis 2.5 front tire and Maxxis 2.35 rear tire
Easton Bars and Seatpost
My first XC rig, used for club rounds and the odd 50/100km ride:
Frame: Cannondale Jekyll 2002 XL
Fork: Lefty ELO Carbon/Titanium
Rear Shock: PUSHed Fox Float RL
Rear Der: Shimano XTR, Ti bolts
Front Der: Shimano XTR, Ti bolts
Shifters: Shimano XTR
Crankset: Cannondale CX2 29/44, Ti chainring bolts
Bottom bracket: Shimano Dura-ace Octalink
Cassette: Shimano XT 11-34
Chain: Sram 991
Brakes: Magura Louise, Ti bolts
Rotors: Hope Mono 160mm, Ti bolts
Hubs: Fr - Lefty Si, Rr - Cannondale/ DT Swiss
Rims: Mavic TXC 3.01 24h
Tyres: Schwalbe Rocket Ron 2.1
Pedals: Shimano XTR
Stem: Hope 110mm, Ti Bolts
Bars: FSA K-force carbon
Grips: Titec Pork Rinds
Seatpost: Thomson elite, Ti bolts
Saddle: Fizik Arione CX, carbon rails
Extras: Cateye Strada computer, Cannondale Immix cage.
Tips the scales at 11.1kg (24.5lb) in current spec with pedals, computer, etc. which is not bad for a 7 year old XL bike. Seems to do everything reasonably well.
This will be my 'do everything' bike until I decide to pull the trigger on a Flash 29er...
Nice bike, how do you like your tire?
What am I going to do with forty subscriptions to Vibe?
Bought this 3 weeks ago. This is my first foray into mountain biking in general. Paid $600 for it plus another set of handlebars. The guy said he rode it maybe 4 times and it looks it. Rear shock needed a rebuild from sitting. It's an XL frame and I'm 6'3". I still feel as if I am leaning forward a touch too much though with some higher handlebars. The steerer has been left uncut as you can see. Dunno what to change to make myself a touch more comfortable yet...
Recently I upgraded the derailleurs from (rear) Deore Xt and (front) LX to Shimano XTR rapidrise in rear and XTR in front.
Shimano Deore XT shifters
Some cheap Avid V-brakes. :-(
Rock Shox Tora 302 Fork :-(
I am contemplating upgrading to disc brakes, but looking at things, Ill ride this till something breaks that I cant find a replacement for, then uprade to whatever Cannondale is out that year. I'd love to be a "weight-weenie" but I am in it for the exercise, not so much how far or how high I can go.
IF I go with disc brakes, it'll be a Shimano Deore XT setup ($200 new on ebay), but not sure on the wheel/hub setup though.... Want something strong, and trying to stay under $500 total for entire exchange. Interesting thing though is the bike will take V-brakes AND an IS disc setup. Look:
(BTW am building my knowledge while searching these great forums. Didnt know a damn thing when I bought the bike)
Currently have a problem when I shift the front derailleur that the chain drops off and catches on the front of the rear triangle, and scratches it to hell. Derailleurs otherwise shift perfectly, set them up myself, no noise, quick, no excessive slack. Not sure about the B adjustment screw though, its never overly close to the sprockets like the manual says unless the screw is almost out.
Boy, that is certainly a unique jekyll configuration. That is a pre-2001 (shorter travel) frame that has been re-painted (I can't tell if the "Helen" decals are under the clear coat), with a newer fork and headset (only lefties/headshocks until 2002-3). It is tough to tell, but those wheels do not look like disc hubs, so a disc break setup will cost a bit. If you plan on doing it, I would just get a premade wheelset and some avid bb-7's. You also might want to get that steer tube shortened a bit or at least move the stem lower - that is gonna out a hurting on the headset if you take it off road.
Helen decals are under the clear coat. And no, they are not disc hubs. I was thinking of spending $300 on a cheap but durable wheel set. However after thinking about it, I'll ride as is. Doing that upgrade, then upgrading the Fork to a Fox Float, I'm closing in on new bike territory. Can you PM me (or post here) as to why I should lower the stem/ or cut the steerer? I put handlebars on that are somewhat taller ( more V to them) and I was instantly more comfortable going up and down the mountain. Wrists still kill going either way though, but shoulders hurt less.
Helen decals are under the clear coat. And no, they are not disc hubs. I was thinking of spending $300 on a cheap but durable wheel set. However after thinking about it, I'll ride as is. Doing that upgrade, then upgrading the Fork to a Fox Float, I'm closing in on new bike territory. Can you PM me (or post here) as to why I should lower the stem/ or cut the steerer? I put handlebars on that are somewhat taller ( more V to them) and I was instantly more comfortable going up and down the mountain. Wrists still kill going either way though, but shoulders hurt less.
Your spacer stack height is almost as tall as the head tube itself. There is a lot of extra force acting on the top headset cup with that setup (because the extended steertube essentially acts as a lever, amplifying the force from the bars). I think I remember Ritchy or Bontrager saying they do not reccomend ever running more than 40mm of spacers for safety reasons.
Thinking about the forces involved, wouldn't there be more force from the bottom of the fork (actually bottom of the tire) than from me pushing/pulling from the top of the steer tube? However I understand both are happening when one rides, ie riding uphill and me pulling on the handle bars to stay on the seat somewhat.
I thought maybe it was more of a stance thing. Either way, I'll try lowering the handlebar set, won't want to cut it currently till I find something comfortable.
Along with the bar, seatpost and seat, I've added a few other upgrades as well.
Syntace Force 1.5 stem w/Ti bolts holding the bar.
ODI Ruffian lock on grips (locking the Ergo 2 bar ends to the grips seems to help with mounting them on the carbon riser bar which states no barends should be used.... however I also used some FSA assembly paste - bottom line though: THEY DON'T MOVE!!!!)
KCNC seatpost clamp (I think it's 'SC11' - the 10g one)
KCNC Ti axle rear QR skewer (soon to be selling the orphaned KCNC Ti front QR skewer)
so the remaining things I want are clipless pedals/shoes and a carbon lefty but that's for next year.
And thanks euskafreez. likewise with the good taste. lol
any luck with the sale?
Less than 24h hours. Damn I'm gonna miss this bike, especially the patriotic blue ... or not My alu brushed Prophet's waiting for his wheels, 2 weeks without riding a cannondale. It's tough .
Instead of a carbon lefty I will buy a used Prophet frame (around $500) and and brand new RS Revelation Team Maxle (for $550) for almost the same price as a Lefty Carbon , but ey that's my 2 cents .
Anyway are you sure about the purpose of carbon mounting paste? Just mount a truvativ noir bar, thomson x4 stem and oury lock-on without any paste but I got torque wrench.
Any Jekyll/Super v owners have a spare swingarm pivot bolt spacer laying around I could purchase from you? Or possibly the entire kf 008 swingarm bolt kit?
emai: az1jeff_buy.sell@yahoo.com. Thanks.
Any Jekyll/Super v owners have a spare swingarm pivot bolt spacer laying around I could purchase from you? Or possibly the entire kf 008 swingarm bolt kit?
emai: az1jeff_buy.sell@yahoo.com. Thanks.
Try HERE, it's in Germany but they are delivering in the US .
My Goodboy is having a bit of a makeover at the moment....still keeping the essence of it though with all the pollished xtr and other special stuff....
After years of pollishing the frame the dark grey decals were looking tired and worn so iv had some new ones made up the same as the old ones but in white and differnt sizes to give me a choice plus im going to be using the new Jekyll decal as i couldnt get a good image of the old decal to have coppied plus i think it looks better anyway....
Added some white Odi Hardcore Lock on grips as the old ones were getting sticky....
Added some DMR V12s in white as the Azonic xframes i had on needed new bearing and were prety scratched up....
Added a new Goodridge gear cable set and rear lockout cable in white....
Added new Goodridge steel braided brake hoses....
Looks well smart....will post pics when the new Jekyll decals arive on Saturday....
Last edited by qwackers; 07-22-2010 at 10:40 AM.
2002 M Cannondale Jekyll Goodboy 30th Aniversery...#017-300....
Anyway are you sure about the purpose of carbon mounting paste? Just mount a truvativ noir bar, thomson x4 stem and oury lock-on without any paste but I got torque wrench.
Well I had the bar ends before the lock on grips, and when I mounted them and torqued them to the number FSA so graciously printed on the bar - with a little push on them, they spun around. Then after a few curse words and a beer (or two) I decided it would be a good idea to over torque another 8 inch pounds. I figured this was a good idea because I also used the Syntace end plugs for using bar ends on carbon bars. No cracks, but still would move with moderate force applied.
I assume the Lock on Grips have some impact but I wanted to be extra sure that the grips and ends weren't going to spin at all.
So far, with my over doing it with the lock on grips, bar ends,end plugs, paste and torqued to the proper spec - they haven't moved a millimeter.
A week after they were ment to arrive i finaly got all my new decals on....iv had the new style "2011 Jekyll" decals made from a fantastic image i had scaned into a laser cutter so there perfect....
The "Cannondale" decals are the regular ones....should be #17 of 300 but i meessed up the last "0" so im just waiting for a new decal....
I think it turned out well....
Last edited by qwackers; 07-30-2010 at 03:53 PM.
2002 M Cannondale Jekyll Goodboy 30th Aniversery...#017-300....
The Jeckyll's are alive and well! Seeing the photos almost makes me wish I never sold mine years ago. I had my shock "Pushed" shortly before passing the bike on to a friend and it rode every but as good as my Prophet.
I have to ask, why the loyalty? Have a lot of you tried new rides and find the Jeckyll as good or better than what's out there in the price range or are you too cheap or broke to buy a new bike?
The frame... no no just kidding, I love the Jekyll. I would start with wheels and changing to full disc setup, XTR dual controls can be had dirt cheap on chain reaction cycles if you are happy to not have the latest version.
Doing that would lose the reflectors which are a good start and I'd also ditch the plastic bit of crap that supposedly stops the chain going into the spokes at the rear cassette, just have your stop screws set right..
I'd go clipless pedals, they make a huge difference to power and control, then I'd lose the saddle bag and get a camelbak or the like.
I agree with sp3000....brakes will make a huge difference but prob apart from wheels the most expencive....after that anything else is prety affordable....
Heres my latest upgrade....a pair of MINT lefty Crossmax sl i got off ebay for.... ....£160.... ....Stripped them last week and even the bearings are mint....they also came with a pair of Continental Mountain King Tubeless with about 90% wear left but i prefer my Hutchinsons....BARGAIN....
I can get round to finishing the tiling of in the kitchen now....bike comes first though....iv got my prioritys right....
2002 M Cannondale Jekyll Goodboy 30th Aniversery...#017-300....
The rubber rings are to small to go around a lefty so i used black elasticated ponytail hair bands....works a treat and you can change the color if you wish....
2002 M Cannondale Jekyll Goodboy 30th Aniversery...#017-300....
Guys, am loving the Jekyll admiration will post some pics of my trusty 2003 Jekyll 1000 steed shortly. In the mean time it seems to have developed some clunky movement between the bolt which goes through the shock reducer and the reducer itself. (i.e. play in the bolt where the shock meets the swingarm).
Did there used to be a bushing in there which has gone AWOL?? Just metal spacers in there now and a couple of mm's of metal-on-metal movement.
If anyone can undo their bolt and take a look I'd appreciate it - no upper reducer on the ol' Jekyll to compare it to thanks to the threaded shock!
Thanks quackers, however the only detectable movement is between the end of the shock piston (the reducer) and the bolt which runs through it to connect it to the swingarm. Basically if I left the rear of the bike I feel (and hear) the bolt move within the reducer and likewise when I lower it back onto the ground.
The same thing must be happening every time the swingarm changes direction when riding, which can't be good
...am suspecting that the two silver coloured "spacers" (for want of a better word) inside the reducer used to have some kind of layer of bushing around them which has worn away but would be good to compare with someone elses.
The whole assembly on my bike (bolt, spacers, shock) is metal on metal on metal now - is yours different?
there is a bushing that is pressed into the shock piston end, then the two metal reducers are pressed into that, i believe the bushing you need is called a DU bushing and is pretty cheap.
My Jekyll finally broke! Bottom bracket/main pivot sheared off the front triangle. Can't complain as I probably had 6k-8k miles on the bike. If anyone if looking for Jekyll shocks, I now have 2 excellent condition Answer Minute rear shocks, with the correct sized yoke and lockring (they were acquired within the last two years, one never used, one with about 250 miles on it). PM if interested, otherwise they hit the 'bay.
Looking for/WTB : Grove Innovations Assault Fork, Grove Innovation Hammerhead Stem or Hothead Bar Stem
The front der is 3-4mm too high...but clean bike for sure. Do you really run that saddle height? (looks like 8-10 of drop from saddle to bar)
Perhaps the front derailleur is a little bit too high, because before ther was monted a 44 T chainring. The position of the saddle is not correct on the picture yet, it actually is 30mm lower when I ride.
2004 Cannondale Jekyll- only thing stock is the frame
Specs:
Cannondale Jekyll Frame
Manitou Minute 2 fork
Magura Marta hydro's
Chris King Headset
Chris King Iso Disc Hubs (Front and rear)
ZTR 355 tubeless wheels. (awesome)
Continental Mountain king 2.2 rear, WTB prowler MX 2.3 front
Fox float RL w/ pro pedal
Salsa bits (skewers, headset cap, seat clamp)
Thomson seatpost
Specialized saddle
Santa Cruz Peaty grip
XTR rear
LX front
XTR shifters
Scram chain
Easton Monkey lite CF handle bars
Kore Elite stem
Guys I'm looking to replace my stock Fox RL on my '03 1000. The lockout no longer works but shock overall still works fine. Anyone selling a unit? PM me.
....and don't tell me just to pedal smoother can't do that, I'm a masher.
Just wanted to share my pride and joy it's a 2000 Jekyll 500 that I bought brand new I think the color is called Team Replica here it is after 10 years still looks brand new really did nothing to it so far but look------Mavic EN521, BB7, Jagwire, new seat post Sunline, Lizard Skin grips and Avid Speed Dials, man I can't believe it took me this long to upgrade.
Enjoy
Last edited by jerry98vert; 03-13-2011 at 06:22 PM.
It's 2003 Jekyll built with left over parts. I have had 4 Jekylls and this one, for some reason, rides the best. This is my loaner bike for buddies that don't have a bike to ride.
I've had this forever it seems. It's like an old friend.
I've done a bunch of work on it over the years. As things broke, I tried to get the best replacement I could. Took this pic 4 yrs ago or so. Lots of new stuff not shown. I'll try to shoot a new pic.
This is a frame up build nothing except the frame and rear deraileur is stock 800.
Frame Jekyll
Fork HeadShok Lefty Max- TPC+
Rear Shock Manitou Swinger SPV 3 way
Rims Mavic 3.1 Tubeless disc, 24 hole
Hubs Cannondale 30th Anniversary Lefty front, DT Swiss HUGI rear
Spokes DT Revolution polished
Tires 26 x 2.0"- Hutchinson Python Team Gold
Pedals TIME ATAC Z
Crank Shimano XT 760 22/32/44
Chain SRAM PC69 9-speed
Rear Cogs Shimano XT, 11-34
Bottom Brackes Shimano XT 760 integrated
Front Derailleur Shimano XT
Rear Derailleur Shimano XT
Shifters Shimano XT
Handlebars Syntace VRO
Stem Cannondale HeadShok Si
Headset Cannondale HeadShok Si
Brakeset Magura Marta SL’s w/Hope Universal Gothic Rotor’s
Brakelevers Magura Marta SL’s
Saddle KOOBI au enduro
Seat Post Cannondale Expert
Colors SoBe Team Replica (gloss) (SOB).
Sizes L
Weight 27.7
This Jekyll may soon be on eBay, so I can buy the '05 Prophet 4000. Still haven't decided, I'm waiting to ride a large frame to decide, so far I've only ridden the medium frame 800. Very Nice!!!!!!
Either I saw your bike at the Vermont Mountainbike Festival a week ago or there is someone that has a very similar bike
Has anyone ever tried mounting a Headshok Moto FR on a Jekyll frame? I figure someone must have tried it, but i've never seen one. It seems like it would be a good solution for a little more travel than a standard headshok fork and much cheaper than a Lefty. If you've done it, let's see pictures.
I'm looking at a 2004 Jekyll 16.5 inch frame. I'm 5'10" and I wear jeans with an inseam of around 30"-31". Would this be a good fit for me, or would it be too small?
I'm looking at a 2004 Jekyll 16.5 inch frame. I'm 5'10" and I wear jeans with an inseam of around 30"-31". Would this be a good fit for me, or would it be too small?
When you wear jeans our size, there's no such thing as too small.
To be honest, I don't know too much about it. If you can offer any info I'd be VERY appreciative. Looking online I'm guessing its a 01-03 3000 SL.
I traded a car for it and another MTB about 4 years ago. Yes a car. 1990 Mazda Miata with 200k miles that ran decent but needed work.
Since I've owned the bike I have replaced the 32T chainring with a Blackspire Ring, rear cassette with a SRAM PG-990, chain Shimano XTR, and rebuilt the Fox Shock.
I'm at a slight cross roads with it. I live in SJ and have done some lighter offroad rides and more recently have put some slicks on it, locked the suspension, and done around 250 miles on the road plus the Philly to Ocean City MS Ride.
I want to get a road bike (CAAD 10) and use the Jekyll the way it was meant to be used. The drivetrain is sloppy, the brakes have lost their power and the lefty needs some love. I am thinking of doing a total rebuild. X9 Drivetrain (2012 New), Formula ORO K24 or Juciy 7 Brakes Used from the Bay, and I have no idea what to do with the lefty...
What do you think restore her or sell it off and get something newer?
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Originally Posted by SuperHawk996
?
Also easton carbon bar is waiting right stem to put on.
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... I want a good boy so much 
I agree with sp3000....brakes will make a huge difference but prob apart from wheels the most expencive....after that anything else is prety affordable....
....£160....
