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  1. #1
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    Prophet Seatpost Q

    I recently got an 06 Prophet 600 and I find that i'm too cramped in the cockpit. My knees are over the pedals and I need to get back more. Id like to get a Thomson set back post but im not sure what size i need. Does anyone know?? Thanks

  2. #2
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    27.2, You can also mount your saddle further back on the seat post.

  3. #3
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    Thanks alot. My seats already slammed as far back as it can get. The seatpost the bike comes with sucks, it doesnt even have a swept back clamp at the top. I'm in between sizes, and the Large was the best for stand over clearance. Only problem im worried about with the thomson is being able to get behind it going downhill...

  4. #4
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    Only problem im worried about with the thomson is being able to get behind it going downhill...[/QUOTE]The Thomson, though it looks dramatic, only has 16mm of set back, so it is actually quite within range of a majority of most setbacks out there. FSA offers a seatpost that has 35mm if you need more. You won't have an issue getting behind it. Good luck!

  5. #5
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    Quick question chaps:
    I got the Thomson 27.2 today and installed it--the position is perfect. The only problem is, the seatpost moves in the tube. If i grip the saddle and give it some force it spins--I can even do it with my legs if i try. I tried tightening down the quick release, but in order for it to not turn easily, I have to make it damn near impossible to get shut--and it still spins slightly. Is something wrong here?

  6. #6
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    Seat clamp

    I've heard that other people have also had problems clamping their seatposts on Prophets.
    Mine is ok I have it really, really tight, so I bought a Hope seat clamp which I find has a smoother action and is a bit more ergonomical.

    Looks nice too in silver to match my silver Prophet graphics

  7. #7
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    Try taking some rubbing alcohol to the seat tube and inside the frame via a rag. Might just have some oil or other stuff that assists movement in there/on it. I personally love acetone (but it likes to take off paint) and use it on a lot of metal on metal contact points like fork tubes and tripple clamps on dirt bikes. Getting rid of the lubricants is key to keeping parts from moving.

    Or you can always try old never fail: If it's supposed to move and it doesn't use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't use Superglue! (duct tape also applies here)

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by wakeboardR2wheels
    Try taking some rubbing alcohol to the seat tube and inside the frame via a rag. Might just have some oil or other stuff that assists movement in there/on it. I personally love acetone (but it likes to take off paint) and use it on a lot of metal on metal contact points like fork tubes and tripple clamps on dirt bikes. Getting rid of the lubricants is key to keeping parts from moving.

    Or you can always try old never fail: If it's supposed to move and it doesn't use WD40. If it moves and it shouldn't use Superglue! (duct tape also applies here)
    All due respect, but, YIKES! Seatposts, and any other sliding metal/metal contact NEEDS lube/grease. Otherwise mechanics like myself, end up having to hacksaw out your old seatpost one little lengthwise sliver at a time, talk about a long process! Even though it's not steel, aluminum on aluminum creates galvanic corrosion, and it's just as "stuck inducing" as rust. With no protection, this will be the case every time, unless you move your post all the time, to keep it at bay. That bit spoken to, what you need is a better clamp, like a Salsa or a Hope, they tighten better, and have more oomph to them. If this fails, you have a frame that needs looking at by a rep, as it may be over-bored, and since Cannondale uses Thomson posts on some bikes, you won't get some story about it being the posts fault, which it can be with some posts. Hope that helps!

  9. #9
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    I think another good question ask would be what size seatpost clamp?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro K
    I think another good question ask would be what size seatpost clamp?
    It will be a 32mm. Actual size is 31.8, but they don't make it like that.

  11. #11
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    My Hope clamp is 31.8.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by KarlosPirahna
    My Hope clamp is 31.8.
    I stand, corrected. Salsa only makes 32, sorry for the confusiuon!

  13. #13
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    The Salsa is great, I highly recommand it.

    And by the way, metal seatposts: grease. Carbon seatposts: no grease!

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  14. #14
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    And by the way, metal seatposts: grease. Carbon seatposts: no grease![/QUOTE]
    You know, I had that in my head as I was typing, but forgot to type it, good point=

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    You know, I had that in my head as I was typing, but forgot to type it, good point=
    I know you know!

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  16. #16
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    Ok. SO I need to get a Salse 32 Seatpost clamp and then put some kind of lube on the seat post. I'll try that. I'll let you guys know what happens. Thanks alot!
    PS. just to confirm, the post isnt supposed to move at all when its tightened right?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris_nor_cal
    just to confirm, the post isnt supposed to move at all when its tightened right?
    Right

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    All due respect, but, YIKES! Seatposts, and any other sliding metal/metal contact NEEDS lube/grease. Otherwise mechanics like myself, end up having to hacksaw out your old seatpost one little lengthwise sliver at a time, talk about a long process! Even though it's not steel, aluminum on aluminum creates galvanic corrosion, and it's just as "stuck inducing" as rust. With no protection, this will be the case every time, unless you move your post all the time, to keep it at bay. That bit spoken to, what you need is a better clamp, like a Salsa or a Hope, they tighten better, and have more oomph to them. If this fails, you have a frame that needs looking at by a rep, as it may be over-bored, and since Cannondale uses Thomson posts on some bikes, you won't get some story about it being the posts fault, which it can be with some posts. Hope that helps!
    I'm a bicycle hack, I'll admit it. I was thinking short term solution, you obviouly know the long term failures to my inexperience! Lube it up and stick it in - as the man says!

  19. #19
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    what kind of lube and how much are we talking

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris_nor_cal
    what kind of lube and how much are we talking
    WD40....




    J/K

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by chris_nor_cal
    what kind of lube and how much are we talking
    Good quality grease,(for seatposts, and any other non drivetrain interface) it sticks around longer, and does not dry things out like WD40, who's primary active ingredient is Kerosene, or something very similar, which is why it cuts grease and oil so well.

  22. #22
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    Well I finally found a good LBS, man thats a good feeling. They put grease on my quick release and made it work good enough to make it last for a while, put grease in my seat tube, and fixed the drag on my avid bb brakes while I waited. Awesome. Thanks alot guys.

  23. #23
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    [QUOTE=chris_nor_cal]Well I finally found a good LBS, man thats a good feeling. Can we post this sentiment everywhere? We do exist, and we love to make folks happy= Glad you got hooked up, and have a smile on your face. Happy Trails.

  24. #24
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    alittle OT but..

    Quote Originally Posted by chris_nor_cal
    Well I finally found a good LBS, man thats a good feeling. They put grease on my quick release and made it work good enough to make it last for a while, put grease in my seat tube, and fixed the drag on my avid bb brakes while I waited. Awesome. Thanks alot guys.
    chris_nor_cal sorry this is a bit off topic but i noticed you inquired about the BB7/Speed dial 7 levers in the "brake time" thread. i see you have a P600 and that Speedhub Nate recommended the Speed dial 7 levers with the BB7s for maximum "adjustability". I also have a P600 w BB7s the stock cannondales offer no leverage adjustability and IMO feel a little chinsy. I was wondering if you ended up going with those SD7 levers? if so what is your opinion? a worthy improvement over the stock cannondale levers on the P600?

    any input would be greatly appreciated. thnx

    elgordo

  25. #25
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    El Gordo. I put the Speed Dial 7's on and had the shop trim some of the housing on the rear brake, replace both cables, and put a few drops of tri flow on them. The difference is jaw dropping. I feel like I have hydraulics now. The ease of pulling the lever back is nothing now and there is no slop compared to the cannondale levers.
    I have a whole drawer of stuff that has come off various bikes that I kept, thinking I might use it again. I might as well throw it all away.
    Get the levers. REI.com has the cheapest price for them I could find.

  26. #26
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    thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by chris_nor_cal
    El Gordo. I put the Speed Dial 7's on and had the shop trim some of the housing on the rear brake, replace both cables, and put a few drops of tri flow on them. The difference is jaw dropping. I feel like I have hydraulics now. The ease of pulling the lever back is nothing now and there is no slop compared to the cannondale levers.
    I have a whole drawer of stuff that has come off various bikes that I kept, thinking I might use it again. I might as well throw it all away.
    Get the levers. REI.com has the cheapest price for them I could find.
    well it sounds as though they are a worthy upgrade : ) many people have mentioned that they are quality levers and make the BB7 that much better but I was curious how they compare relative to the stock P600s. anyway much thanks for the input. elgordo

  27. #27
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    http://cgi.ebay.com/AVID-SPEED-DIAL-...QQcmdZViewItem

    Lilke these> i Imagine brake levers are a standard Dia.....Or am I wrong
    CDT

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