Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!
It's about time we had a thread specifically for the UBER. So here's the first one.
This is a Super V Police edition frame front with an '04 Jekyll swingarm. The shock mount tabs have been cut and drilled for the longer stroke shock. It gets a full 150 mm rear-wheel travel from a Progressive 5th element air shock and 130 mm from the Marzocchi Z1 FR SL. Weighs 29 pounds complete.
My new favorite...
This was a '99 Super V frame front. It used to be a yellow-green fade. Here's what it used to look like. I had it bead-blasted and powder coated in blue. The swingarm is from an '03 Jekyll. 150 mm rear wheel travel from the 5th element and 125 mm Fox Talas RLC. 28.5 pounds complete.
Here's mine, pics a bit old, but the only changes are El Caminos with an 8" in front, and a VRO stem for on the fly adjustability. Swing arm's from an '02 Jekyll, 97/8 SV500 front tri, chopped and drilled for the same results as RW's. Sweet deep travel=:)
Here is mine. 28lb. trail bike with 150mm rear wheel travel and 130mm front. It f'n rocks! Best bike I have ever owned. jdcamb
'00 Super V Frame, cut to fit the big shock
150 mm in back courtesy of the DHX Air 5.0.
130 up front from the Bomber Z1 FR SL.
I love your UV Mendon, if I had the money I would definately buy it off you in an instant. Thanks for the little test ride in the lot yesterday. I wonder if Sean will pull through with the swap over from his prophet. I know he's been wanting to buy his old one back from his neighbor for a while.
Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
Glad you got a chance to ride it! Sean should bug her about it (gently), you never know what might happen=:)
Originally Posted by Heals120
does anyone have any formal "how-to" writup to build an uberV. i forgot in many pages of the superV thread that a hole must be drilled one centimeter in. however how does this make it ok to run a shock 1" longer eye to eye? otherwise, whats stopping anyone from running a .5" longer shock e-e on a "normal" frame. its still going to be slightly beyond stock geometry isnt it?
in any case, i was just curious. i just put the bonded arm of death on (however i dont think i ride hard enough yet to break it) but after i'm back into biking again, hopefully i'll have a later model jekyll arm in my hands ready for swap. i can already feel how shakey this new swingarm feels, its not stiff at all. i was tempted to put my old active 80 triangle back on, however i have a broken brake boss, so thats a negatory.
It depends on what model year your V is, which fork/headset combination you want to use and what headtube angle you want to achieve. If you provide these details, I can give you more precise tab-modification recommendations. There are three types of V frames that we have identified: '97/'98, '99 and '00/'01/'02. The shock mount tabs on each are different and require slightly different treatment depending on your target headtube angle.
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
For example: My '99 required no modification and provided a headtube angle of about 69 degrees when used with the 5" Fox Talas, gemini headtube adapters and king headset. The same bike would have a headtube angle of about 68 degrees with a Marzocchi 130mm fork and nearly 70 degrees with a Lefty Max. Personally, I prefer a the 69 degree HT. You can also achieve a steeper HT by using a 7.875 i2i rather than the 7.5 i2i rear shock. So many options...
Another example: My '02 police frame was drilled about 7/8" forward and gets about a 68.5 degree HT angle with the Marzocchi Fork, gemini headtube adapters, and chris king headset.
Another important thing that we've learned is that to get the best performance out of the Ubers, you should set up your handlebar an inch or two higher than your saddle. It may seem odd, but they climb extremely well that way. Unfortunately, that's difficult to achieve with a Lefty fork unless you find a very tall stem.
i believe mines a 97 model superV 700
i just recently swapped to a bonded type swingarm for upgrade/fixing the problem with brake boss.
heres an old pick before the swingarm swap:
currently using a fox vanilla rc 6.5 e-e x 1.55 for shock though
as of current, i'm not sure what kind of fork i'll be using, i guess this is something i'll have to decide before doing this mod, but i was thinking stepping up to a 120mm travel from my current 100.
for all intents and purposes, this is a medium frame
but for now, i think my bike is ok, just prepping ideas for maybe end of summer.
Even Cannondale knows!!
The Magic Carpet
If you don't already have one you should stop looking and save yourself the trouble...get yourself an enduro or somthing. :thumbsup:
The Uber V rides like a Cheetah/Mountain Goat hybrid on Adderall.
I'm building an uberV on a budget and have a reducer cup (headset adapter) issue exacerbated by the use of a double crown fork.
By calling every cannondale dealer within 100 miles of LA, I found a store with some older, slightly used super v reducer cups lying about in their shop. I immediately bought all they had -two pair- and had them sent to me sight unseen.
The 1", riser, bottom cup went in like butter- perfect fit, perfect insertion depth. Yet, the top, short cups don't seem to match. It isn't the insertion depth, however- it's the diameter. the top cups sent to me are too wide for my '97 superV 500 comp head tube by maybe a millimeter or two. Placed end to end with the cup that fits, I can see a slight difference in the diameter of the inserted portion of the the cup.
Ever heard of this? The different insertion depth appears several times in this thread, but no one mentions a variation in the super V head tube diamter.
budget uber using some of my old parts:
97 super V 500 comp frame
99 130mm marzocchi jr t triple clamp fork
2006 jekyll V brake swingarm
2006 fox DHX 7.5x2
sram x.0 carbon componentry, 9 speed
velocity cliffhanger wheelset with xtr hubs and v brakes
I'll save some cash by sticking with the v brakes and rims. The double crown fork has the advantage of being able to reposition the lower crown, but, conversely, the top headset race has to be under the top crown- as near to the frame as possible. I can then use spacers above the crown to raise my stem as desired.
I need the top reducer cup with the 1mm rise, as low and as flush as the ones posted here so many times, and I'm in the odd situation of only needing the top while having an extra super V bottom cup- the 1"/25mm riser adapter. Anyone want to trade? You can have my bottom if you send me your top.
My current top reducer cups add a 13mm rise to the stack height and appear to have a 50mm insertion diameter- though they don't fit into my headtube by about one millimeter of excess diameter.
If I order the gemini cups from cannondale, or some aftermarket reducer cups, will I still have this diameter issue? The milling down of the gemini cups is insertion height, not diameter, right?
Then again, I need my headtube rig to be short on top, with the riser cup at the bottom. What stops me from mixing the top half of one headset with the bottom half of another? For example, a cane creek doubleXC short above the headtube, and then a regular 1-1/8 headset in the riser reducer cup at the bottom? They both centrally suspend a 1-1/8" steerer, right? The idea makes me cringe a bit, but what's wrong with it?
I can, of course, just go with a reducer headset discarding the reducer cups. I can just slide my crowns to the desired geometery, but, structurally, I didn't like the idea of sliding the lower crown too high.
Been there, done that, had a set of reducers custom made
The two short ones look like problem solver head tube reducers and they are meant to fit into the Cannondale bearing cup that is pressed into the head tube (they come standard on headshock equipped bikes). All of these parts raises the overall length of the head tube, not want you want.
My solution was to have a set custom made using the OD of the C'dale bearing cups and the ID of the Problem solver cups. This drawing is one of my early ones, can't seem to find the final version with the correct dimensions on it (the drawing is correct, dimensions are not as was still learning solidworks when i drew this up).
Accurately measure the various parts, dimension the drawing to your needs and talk to a good machine shop. What i did was to go 0.1" shorter than full press depth (as shown on the drawing it's 0.1" deeper than possible). I had two cups made from a piece of 7075 aluminum i got from McMaster Carr because my local shop didn't have on hand in the correct size. This was not the cheapest route (a little over $80 for materials and machining costs) but it works perfectly. You could probably get away cheaper as you only need one cup.
looks like i'll be going uber soon...should have a swingarm on the way soon courtesy of kithawk.
Here's mine- 6" travel rear, and a little over 5" in the front.
Recently added the shock (Zocchi roco R air) and the swingarm, which is off an old Jekyll.
got a jekyll swingarm now, so i just need a shock, forks, and i guess a reducer and headset, but i need to reread all that stuff in the super v thread again.
Super V - Link does not work
It´s a shame it was very good thread. I´m also trying to upgrade my Cannondale Supver V 700 SX.
Call me stupid but could someone explain to me why do you have to have a Jekyll swingarm, what's the difference between that and the original super V swingarm?
The SV arms mount the shock ahead of the front derailleur mount tube, the Jekyll styles mount rearward. The extra space allows for a longer shock, thus more travel. :thumbsup:
Originally Posted by Kia Kaha
Thanks for your reply Mendon
I guess the reason I'm a bit confused is that my Super V seems to have a different swingarm to every other one in this thread? I bought this bike on ebay about 4 years ago and I believe it's an '01 or '02 model.
You can see the shock mount is set a bit higher up and further back than it is on the older Super V swingarms. Do you think I could get away with using the bigger shock by just drilling the tabs on the frame and using that swingarm?
you can modify the frame to get more travel but that swingarm may crack as it's one of the dreaded "bonded" ones. Here's a thread on the topic: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...onded+swingarm
As noted by bbbr, you could turn it into an Uber but it may be more than the bonded swingarm could bear. Also keep in mind that you could dramatically improve the performance of your bike with no frame modification just by upgrading to a modern 6.5"x1.5" platform shock like the Fox RP23. But you still probably want to try to find a Jekyll swingarm for peace of mind (and body).
Originally Posted by Kia Kaha
Originally Posted by 1975volker
you can still view it when you're logged out, which is good for me since i need to do a lot of re-reading in that thread before i finish my uber build.