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  1. #1251
    Prophet 27.5 Joy
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    '98 Uber V 700

    I bought this bike new in June of '97. The only original part is the frame and swingarm. It worn our three drive trains, three sets of wheels, and is on it's fourth fork and third rear shock. I think I got my money's worth from it. It had 5400 logged miles on it when I passed it down to my son after I bought my Prophet. Who knows how many miles are on it now. He and his buddies beat the stuffin's out of it, eventually cracking the frame in from of the shock mount. This was a direct result of my son loaning to his 280 pound buddy for a day of downhill and dirt jumping (with insufficient air in the shock, by the way. Can you say "harsh bottom out"? SLAM!!! SLAM!!! SLAM!!!)

    I fixed the frame by adding a half section of 6061 tube around the frame in front of the stock shock tabs, then welding gussets forward from the shock tabs to the tube doubler. This spreads the loads out over a much larger section of tube, and there has been no further trouble.

    Now the bike is used strictly for old man trail rides. It currently sports an 01 Bomber FR 130mm fork, a Cane Creek cloud nine shock, a Truvativ crank from my Prophet bolted to a race face BB. Shifters and cogs are Shimano XT. It just keeps on going, but since finding this thread, the mind wanders towards giving it some rehab. Perhaps a fresh paint job and a longer travel true Uber set up on the rear. I really enjoy hopping on this bike and remembering just how great of a ride it is. Long live the V!!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-super-v-repair-006.jpg  

    Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-super-v-repair-001.jpg  

    Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-super-v-repair-005.jpg  


  2. #1252
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    I believe a member here tried a 7.87 and it messed up the geometry. If you're on a budget and want a good shock, john from X-fusion has some o2-pva's on sale for $120.00. I've read reviews stating they out perform the fox rp23. Hit him up


    Quote Originally Posted by justVisiting View Post
    Hi, just a quick question:

    Originally i wanted to use a 7.5 Monarch RT3, but they are somewhat hard to find recently (looks like RS is going to release their '12 stuff in favor of restocking the old stuff again), so i'm stuck with a newly painted swingarm and a half-assembled bike.

    The only alternatives in 7.5 would be the Monarch RC3 or something from Fox, but both cost more than i had planned to spent (i am over budget anyway, but that's another story...).

    Has anyone tried to fit a 7.875 x 2.25 / 7.875 x 2.00 rear shock? The Vivid R2C costs less than the RC3 and i would favor coil over air anyway.

    So in short:

    Is using a 7.875" coil-spring on an uber-v feasable or should i wait 6+ weeks months for an air-spring?

  3. #1253
    justVisiting
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    Quote Originally Posted by StabMasta View Post
    I believe a member here tried a 7.87 and it messed up the geometry. If you're on a budget and want a good shock, john from X-fusion has some o2-pva's on sale for $120.00. I've read reviews stating they out perform the fox rp23. Hit him up
    Thanks for the part about the geometry, that's exactly what i wanted to avoid. Look's like i'll have my hands on a 2012 Monarch RT3 by the next week, thanks to my lbs. The o2-pva looks promising also, but i think shipping and handling to europe would outweigh the price difference (->time/cost).

  4. #1254
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    Cannondale Super V Frame Geometry

    Dear JustVisiting,

    Not so fast, check out the other Cannondale Forum, " Any Super V's Out There ? ", post # 283 shows a maroon super v with a clear plastic template in place of the rear shock, you could do the same experiment to see how the 7.87" rear shock looks in your frame, and look @ post # 531 for ideas on headsets, spacers, and/or reducers. Have you heard of the Problem Solvers Cannondale Headshok headtube reducers ? Finally, check out posts # 661 and # 1017. These show good examples of tab cutting,( you already did this ?), how did that go ? and a great modification for a rear disc brake. Maybe you will beable to choose a front fork with 180mm of travel ? Please post pictures of your bicycle soon !

    Handy

  5. #1255
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    Good info, Handy! Maybe you'll be able to answer this...

    Did any of you guys have any clearance issues with your front derailleurs? I was talking to a mechanic at my LBS today and he said his buddy had problems sourcing a front derailleur to fit an Uber. Something about the cage hitting the jekyll swing arm, angle problems, etc.

    What front derailleurs are you guys using for 2x9 or 3x9 setups? Top pull, bottom pull? High clamp, Low clamp? Sram or Shimano? Any model numbers?

  6. #1256
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    Happy July, the " Race " starts tommorrow !

    Dear Stab,

    The 1996 Cannondale Super V ACTIVE 1000 lists a stock front derailleur as a Shimano Alivio, however mine has a Shimano Deore LX. It was working just fine, or at least I thought it was until now.

    As a result of the bicycle's stock rear shock( Fox Alps 4) going flat a couple of months ago, a search began for a replacement rear shock. It is begining to look like I might have to give up golf, no money left for green fees. Fox Shox said on the telephone the 5.5" X 1.0" Fox Shox Float RL will fit the 1996 Cannondale Super V ACTIVE 1000 and I can order directly from Fox and they will include reducers. Maybe if they also will include a decal we can make a deal ?

    The rear shock ratio is 3 to 1, the new shock is about 1/4" longer then the stock shock, so this will raise the rear of the bicycle 1/3 of 1/4".

    In an attemp to " balance " the bicycle, now the front of the bicycle needs to be higher. Talking with the local Cannondale bike shop people and reading about the Cannondale front " HeadShox ", it sounds like Cannondale can service and modify the front HeadShox to be longer or a newer longer model may be purchased. Another option would be another new front fork.

    After the front of the bicycle is raised too much, then the back of the bike will need to be raised more. Then the search for a Jekyll swingarm will begin, then another rear shock, then I will have trouble with the front derailleur. If you can solve this problem for me in advance, it would be most kind of you !!!

    Handy

    P. S. Put an extra five psi. in your tires, lube the chain and let her rip !
    Attached Images Attached Images    
    Last edited by Handy; 07-03-2011 at 02:58 PM. Reason: Spell check...After a taste of a little suspension, all the sudden you can't get enough !

  7. #1257
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    I have a Super V700sx that I bought new in May of 2000. I have just started on a path of upgades starting with new wheelsets, Formula K24 front brake with 203mm rotor, and K18 rear with 185mm. I am 230lbs plus gear, and I often tow my two kids when my wife and I go riding on the streets so the newfound stopping power is great. I am looking at various shifter upgrades as well right now, trying to figure out the whole 9sp-10sp thing and what I ned to do.

    Anyway, on to my question. I seem to have the dreaded "bonded" swingarm which is in good shape as of now. I inspected it pretty well and it does not have any splitting/cracking issues as of now. So if it does break, and seeing as I am the original owner of the bike, will Cannondale just replace the old bonded swingarm with another one? Would they still have that old of a design around?

  8. #1258
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    Oh, if they did not have the swingarm would they offer a Jekyll swingarm at a discount? Evidently they are getting kind of hard to find.

    Thanks

  9. #1259
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    Quote Originally Posted by joeycoates View Post
    Anyway, on to my question. I seem to have the dreaded "bonded" swingarm which is in good shape as of now. I inspected it pretty well and it does not have any splitting/cracking issues as of now. So if it does break, and seeing as I am the original owner of the bike, will Cannondale just replace the old bonded swingarm with another one? Would they still have that old of a design around?
    If you haven't broken it yet perhaps you won't - mine has a hairline crack in the paint under the bottompivot point, but has been like that for years and the bike rides perfectly well. Not all of them are going to break.

    I like the look of the twin-spar swingarm so haven't bothered to swap it. Interesting point about getting a Jekyll swingarm from Cannondale rather than a Super V one, though...

  10. #1260
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    I have recently begun riding again and have a 98' SuperV 1000FR. I bought the bike new and love it. I have been reading about converting it to an UberV and have a line on a extra small size Jekyll. I did a search but couldn't find an answer, but are all Jekyll swing arms the same size? I assume they would be, as it would be easier for Cannondale to make one swing arm fit different size front triangles. Thanks for the help.

  11. #1261
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    Swinger 4way

    After almost a year of watching and waiting I've got my lefty!!! now I need the rear shock
    will one of these work or will there be interference with the remote resivoir?

    I can get 2 for $100 is the only reason I ask.

  12. #1262
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    Froride the rear triangles are all the same size.

    Leshaghal that shock should fit. It's more the width with springs that won't go between the two uprights.

  13. #1263
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    Yes yes yes, more super v, more super v...

    Dear fellow cannondale super v riders,

    Notice above, VERTIGO2 shows in the third picture perhaps what might be a frame size ?

    Notice, Froride1 may not have realized yet, that he/she is not ready to pay $ 500.00 US dollars for a jekyll swingarm that might not even fit ?

    leshaghal, if we could all help, we would...just tell us your question and include pics if you don't mind ?

    Yours truly,

    Handy

    P.S. I have this line on a jekyll swingarm I think is worth $ 750.00 U.S. ???
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  14. #1264
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    So people are scalping Jekyll swingarms now? I got mine for $200 from Craig at Mendon Cycle Smith a few years back. He was getting them directly from Cannondale, but I believe his supply line dried up.

  15. #1265
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    Quote Originally Posted by Handy View Post
    Dear fellow cannondale super v riders,

    Notice above, VERTIGO2 shows in the third picture perhaps what might be a frame size ?

    Notice, Froride1 may not have realized yet, that he/she is not ready to pay $ 500.00 US dollars for a jekyll swingarm that might not even fit ?

    leshaghal, if we could all help, we would...just tell us your question and include pics if you don't mind ?

    Yours truly,

    Handy

    P.S. I have this line on a jekyll swingarm I think is worth $ 750.00 U.S. ???
    So Handy do you have a point?

    I'm fully aware of what it may cost to get a Jekyll swing arm. Also, I'm fully aware of the fit issues I may or may not have to deal with. I assume there will be various bits and pieces that need to be modified or fabbed to make things work. As I said I'm looking into converting my V to an Uber. That means I'm thinking about the cost of parts and effort needed to do the conversion. If the cost and effort are more than I wnat to deal with then I'll leave the V alone and build up another bike.

  16. #1266
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    FroRide, I just started my Uber V Project with a 97 medium frame that someone gave to me.
    Just to let you know, I havent had any trouble sourcing the parts for this bike. I found a Jeckyl swingarm 2003 for 15 dollars from someone on craigs list. I am building mine a little bit at a time. In the meanwhile I bought a 2010 GT Force, which has the exact same dimensions of my would be Uber V. Has made switching the parts that came with the GT and move them over to the Uber pretty easy. Just be patient, and keep looking, the parts are def out there if you look.

  17. #1267
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    For Sale '99 Small Tab bike

    I Ran across a XL kawasaki green V frame for my uber V so now I have 3 and that's 1 V too many, so....

    • '99 Super V 400, Dark blue. "small" frame All stock, Fatty M up front (80 mm travel).
    • Bonded swing arm (silver, and solid)
    • stock fox shock in rear
    • Bought as part of a his/hers pair, bike was hardly ridden, shock were tuned by LBS for a 160# woman.
    • The old water bottle mount left some scratches. has v brakes but swingarm and fork have bosses for disk.
    • Short tab frame means no trimming or drilling, just drop in a bigger shock and your Uberized. Stamped "S" between the tabs.
    • Email me at: okim82c55a.20212b05@gmail.com for pictures.
    • buyer pays actual shipping,
    • I'm in Batesville IN if you'd like to pick up.
    • $400 Firm cash or paypal.

    This is the Perfect frame to Uberize and would do it myself but I'm 6'3" and even though my S and XL look the same they Feel very different, so the most uncomfortable one has got to go.
    I put some old knobbies on it for my sister to tool in the back yard with me but you can have the stock cheng shin street tires if you'd prefer?
    Last edited by leshaghal; 07-13-2011 at 12:18 PM. Reason: mis-worded

  18. #1268
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    Finally done with my rig. Sorry about the crap pics, but I have an outdated camera and I'm no photographer.

    I ended up with a free 1997 large Super-V, had it stripped/ powder coated gloss black, and applied a chrome decal set. Special thanks to Pat at Bicycle Wheel Warehouse (BWW). Friendly guy and awesome wheels! Their new 20/15/9mm hubs are sick!

    140mm dual air pike 454
    X.9 Components
    X-Fusion 02-PVA 7.5"x2" rear shock(rocks at $120)
    Avid Speed Dial Ultimate Levers
    Jagwire Ripcord titanium cables
    Forte Carbon riser
    Selcof stem
    Woodman Axis Headshok headset
    Kona seatpost w/ WTB pure-v (replacing both soon)
    KCNC seatpost clamp
    Shimano Hone Cranks
    Wellgo B132 Pedals
    CST Caballero Tires
    BWW Pure XCR wheels (20-15-9qr front hub)
    BB7 brakes
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-img_5213.jpg  

    Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-img_5212.jpg  

    Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-img_5216.jpg  

    Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-img_5215.jpg  

    Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-img_5214.jpg  


  19. #1269
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    how much should i have payed for a clean 97 super v frame?

  20. #1270
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    Quote Originally Posted by tymothi View Post
    how much should i have payed for a clean 97 super v frame?
    It's all relative to your budget and how bad you want one really. I was looking to spend $150 and maybe $200 if it were mint and the right color.

    What I found was that if you purchase the whole bike (or just a frame and fork combo), you can easily sell the Headshok fork and the active swing arm to recoup some of the funds spent on the frame. These are parts you're not going to need anyway. I sold the Headshok fork that came with my bike for $120 on ebay and the Active 80 Swing arm for $40.

    With my build, little things REALLY started to add up. I had powder coat issues, installation costs, and a lot of things I didn't expect really cost me some good $$$. Plan it out, take measurements, and ask questions. Make sure you budget for anything your LBS will charge you for if you need help.

    I will say that just cruising my Uber around on the street the last 2 days I've noticed a HUGE difference over my other bikes. This Uber feels like you're sitting on it and not IN it like my hardtail. Not only that, but it's well balanced and due to my 20mm thru axle, it's stiff as hell. I especially like the shorter chainstays and I was immediately able to manual and bring up the front end a lot easier. I'm really hard on my bikes, so we'll see how she holds up.

    Good luck

  21. #1271
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    alright, i appreciate that. ya i paid 225 and feel ok about it. live & learn i guess...

  22. #1272
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    new in the forum

    Hello everyone. I run nto this forun just by chance, yesterday night. It cost me hours of sleep when I found you. This is just to introduce myself and my to-be Uber.

    Just to tell you that the super v900 you see in the picture has almost NOTHING original, let me explain: I purchased a delta V 1000 in Boston back in 91-92 and rode it for a few years. I took the bike to Spain with me when I relocated. The frame cracked a few years latter, and cannondale send me a super v 900 frame (the one in the picture) under waranty (they were great, I claimed on their lifetime guarantee on frames...).

    Since then, and through the years, I have gone through wheels, powertrains, breaks, seat, seat post, etc, etc. You name it. I thing the ONLY original parts that I keep of my original bike are the steering bar steem, and the stering bar itself (this one cut in length).

    The resulting bike was in storage from 2001 to 20010 due to relocation, work, etc. Now I am back on the trails with my 11 year old son (I am 45, an old rocker), and I am back into mountain biking.

    I have made minor adjustments to the bike to make it ridable (new tires (kenda Navegall), new v brake pads (koolstop dual composite), new seat, and new pedals (eggbeaters V 1.0 bought a couple of months back on clearance in Philadelphia).

    the bike rides as it did many years ago, and the shimano good old XTs and mavic brakes still are giving great performance.

    I am not looking for a killing machine, but for something that lets me climb strongly, and go down as fast as I can without risking physical integrity. I am considering to update my bike to be a killing machine that I can pass onto my 11 year old when he overtakes me in a climb for the first time (not yet the case, still keeping my reputation, and he is still too young...) I was considering changing to disc brakes and a 9 gear powertrain, but......front fatty headshock does not have discbrake supports. I was just considering replacing the front fork to gradually upgrade the bike.......and suddenly I stepped into this great post...and I am doomed.

    I read many old posts dated back 2007, and well into this week. I just do not know where to start. I searched for a jekyll back triangle today in e-bay, and they are like gold mines, very diffcult to find. I have no clue of what rear shock or front shock I should be looking for, I just know that I would like them to have as muc travel distance as posible, as little weight, and I would like them to be lockeable (I know....a dream come through). This just letting alone all the other components that I will replace gradually.

    For the moment, I will be looking at all of you to help me upgrade the frame/suspension/font fork. Everything else will follow.

    the size of the frae is large, not sure of the exact year, because it was sent as a replacement. The serial number of the frame is JBB1 - 030202283 Z95799 8DMNLNLG and the serial number of the front fork is 2963287.

    If anyone could offer any advice on how to start, it would be great. The bike (and most of time me) are in Spain, but I travel often to the USA east coast (philadelphia-New jersey-new York area)

    Sorry for the long into. Hopefully some of iu can offer some advice on how to start....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post your UBER V !!!!!!!!!!!-100_3737.jpg  


  23. #1273
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    Pedal faster Tommy !

    Welcome aboard "ficoslot", watch your head...Yo, Stab, well done, nice uber V ! I was thinking about my front derailleur some more the other day, one of the problems I had in adjusting the front derailleur was the result of a bent chain ring...Sorry Fro, I think you will end up in the same place as everybody else, sooner or later...Uber V heaven.

    The Rear Shock Problem: I don't know very much about rear shocks...I have been learning a little here and there, my super v 400 has an outside coil spring and my super v 1000 has the other type of shock that does not have the spring on the outside. They both bounce when I stand up on the pedals, I thought that is just the way they work. The new shocks with the pro pedal preformance feature sounds like a big improvement to the shock technology. Two models I have been looking at are the Fox Float RP23 around 400 dollars and the Fox Float RL around 300 dollars. Riders installing less expensive shocks might not experience the same level of preformance.

    Another topic, gear ratios, have you ever thought, if only that cog had one more tooth or one less tooth it would be perfect. Maybe people don't spend as much time with the details, tire pressure, spokes, chain, chain lube, gear ratio, saddle, handle bar grips, the perfect moment in the perfect gear in the perfect position and then that little head shok sticker man starts talking to me, pedal faster, pedal faster...

    They will be in Paris Sunday,

    Handy

  24. #1274
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    ficoslot, wellcome!
    Your frame looks like a 98 model, long rear shock tabs and rear disk mounts. On how to start the build I'd say you should determine the amount of suspension travel you'll need for your riding preferences. There are 3 main categories of about 100mm, 120mm, 140mm you could go for example. From there you have a point to start and modify as necessary. 100mm wouldn't need any changes at the back, other than shock probably, 120-130mm would need either to cut the tabs OR change the swingarm and 140-150mm means tabs shorter AND new swingarm. I took the second way in my case, with a CAAD4 swingarm and uncut tabs, just because I didn't want to void my guaranty. If you don't mind that you could keep your swingarm, cut the tabs and drop a new fork of 120-130mm and ready U go!

  25. #1275
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    Handy, manokaiser. Thank you for the welcome messages and for the early guidance.

    Two dumb questions:

    1) Any identified issues with having to have longer suspension travel in the front than in the back? (front with 140mm and back with 120-130 for example)

    2) I have not seen anyone that has attempted to modify the original swingarm. Any issue with welding shock tabs on the top of the vertical tube of the swingarm? If done robustly enough, this would provide significant travel to the rear suspension without event touching the frame tabs, probably. The only issue I can think of is the angle at which the shock would be mounted (with back part slightly higher than the front). Would this be a problem? I just do not feel like searching the world for a Jekyll swingarm at the price of gold, and do not want to give up suspension travel.

    Thank you again

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