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  1. #501
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    White with tiny blue highlights and a Thomson seatpost. Nice pictures guys. Thanks.

  2. #502
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    ... and if we just ... fourth try is a go

    well after 4 trys i got finally got the paint right on this bike. the first design i didn't like, the 2nd one had the clear coat turn white and flake off! and the 3rd try also had clear coat problems. the clear is a bit more glossy than i want, i wanted perfectly flat, but after doing this over again so many time i am just going to deal with it as it is.


    i have had to wait until after hunting season to get started on putting this bike together. i am too afraid to go out and ride on a cammo framed bike while there are rednecks with guns in the woods. cosmetic plans for this build are to keep it as low-key as possible. everything will be flat cammo colors
    i have run into one snag so far, the headset. on the advice from the frame's original owner i got the FSA Big Fat Pig headset. it looks like the insertion dept is too deep for my frame. i haven't even taken the headset out of the packing yet because of that.
    is there another headset that will fit better or do i need to look into a reducer set?

  3. #503
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    well after 4 trys i got finally got the paint right on this bike. the first design i didn't like, the 2nd one had the clear coat turn white and flake off! and the 3rd try also had clear coat problems. the clear is a bit more glossy than i want, i wanted perfectly flat, but after doing this over again so many time i am just going to deal with it as it is.

    i have had to wait until after hunting season to get started on putting this bike together. i am too afraid to go out and ride on a cammo framed bike while there are rednecks with guns in the woods. cosmetic plans for this build are to keep it as low-key as possible. everything will be flat cammo colors
    i have run into one snag so far, the headset. on the advice from the frame's original owner i got the FSA Big Fat Pig headset. it looks like the insertion dept is too deep for my frame. i haven't even taken the headset out of the packing yet because of that.
    is there another headset that will fit better or do i need to look into a reducer set?
    Bike? I don't see any bike in the pictures?
    Correct, a 1.5 headset will not fit in that frame due to the press depth.
    Cane Creek makes a reducing headset that works: Double XC Short
    What fork are your putting on it? Depending on the crown height there may be other options that will work better.
    I'm also curious about the shock. So you're not planning on Ubering it? Or are you sticking with the Uber Lite?

  4. #504
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    the fork is a fox float 120 rlc. its also been painted to math.
    i was to uber the bike. however it came with a Cane Creek cloud9 rear shock. i want to try it out with that shock as a uber lite and see how i like it. most likely i will upgrade to the Uber setup, i just have to find the right rear shock
    thanks for the help on the headset!

  5. #505
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    the fork is a fox float 120 rlc. its also been painted to match.
    i was to uber the bike. however it came with a Cane Creek cloud9 rear shock. i want to try it out with that shock as a uber lite and see how i like it. most likely i will upgrade to the Uber setup, i just have to find the right rear shock
    thanks for the help on the headset!
    The Float is an excellent choice - can't wait to see it in Camo. Given that it is not a huge fork, I would consider using the Problem Solver Cannondale Headtube adapters and a good quality 1 1/8" headset. The added headtube height provided by the Problem Solvers will slacken the geometry slightly to improve handling. You can also accomplish this with Super V adapters but they are much harder to find.

    The Cloud 9 is a good shock. I tried one on a Raven II which is nearly identical to the V. The compression damping adjustment helps with pedalling efficiency but it doesn't really eliminate it like a modern platform shock will. It really depends on where and how you ride. A good round pedal stroke will be essential to avoiding bob.

    If you decide to do the Uber modification I strongly recommend the DHX 5.0 Air. It's the best shock I've ever ridden. If you're a lighter rider you might consider the RP23 or a 5th Element Air shock.

  6. #506
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcamb
    Thanks. I am hoping to make my brothers 40th Bday party in Franklin the first week of june if I can. Vietnam would most certainly be in order. Lets see a pic of your new rig?
    No problem.... Of course she rides as everyone says, goes down like a banshee, and up like mounatin goat...
    (Can't get my freaking computer to let me add photos here, but hopefully they are added into it as attachemtns!!! we'll see in a few min...)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #507
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    shorter Chris King 1.5

    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    i have run into one snag so far, the headset. on the advice from the frame's original owner i got the FSA Big Fat Pig headset. it looks like the insertion dept is too deep for my frame. i haven't even taken the headset out of the packing yet because of that.
    is there another headset that will fit better or do i need to look into a reducer set?
    I spoke with the Chris King company. Under their Tech FAQ's they write: "what products would you like to see? info@chrisking.com us and let us know." I requested the shorter (12mm insertion) version of their 1.5 NoThreadSet. link: http://www.chrisking.com/headsets/hds_onepointfive.html . If you, or anyone else wants an alternative to the Cane Creek Double XC short, email them and make a request. They did say that if enough interest was shown, it could get done. You never know. .

    jeff
    Last edited by az1jeff; 03-23-2008 at 08:40 PM.

  8. #508
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    ah sweet, i would love to have a CK headset! i sent them a request as well. usually places want an order of 30 units or more before they will get the tooling for a new product. if we could get a group buy together it may put them in the mood for it.

    on another note, what derailleur are you people running? i have an XTR unit i wanted to run but i can't get it to sit low enough to shift. and for giggles, some more pics.
    i don't have a seatpost or post clamp so i have the bike hanging from some scaffolding.
    as you see it there it weighs in at 11.4 lbs
    ps, this is about as low as i can get the front derailleur



  9. #509
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    on another note, what derailleur are you people running? i have an XTR unit i wanted to run but i can't get it to sit low enough to shift.
    31.8mm Bottom Pull / Bottom Swing
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #510
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    ... and if we just ... Cane Creek Double Xc short headset notes...

    The following comments refer to the Cane Creek Double Xc FLUSH headset...I forgot what I put on my own bike!?!? Sheesh!!


    I used the Cane Creek Double Xc Flush headset on my Uber. I paid $99 plus shipping. From what I saw later you might be able to get them for about $75.

    I had to saw off some of the "skirt" that presses into the head tube so the headset would fit. The headset bearings were too "tall" by about 1/4".

    I measured the insertion depth of the head tube..if I remember correctly it was about .500" but the dbl Xc short needs about .750" depth. I had already scratched the headset doing a trial fit so I could not return it for credit, so I scribed a line with my digital mics and used a hacksaw to cut off the excess. "Hack" is the operative word because the cut was far from straight. I took some time and a flat file to clean up the cut and blew off the aluminum dust with compressed air. I fabbed a bearing press with 5/8" threaded rod and some washers from Lowe's. The bearings pressed in just fine. I have been happy with the headset.

    You can also use the alloy adapters to reduce the headtube diameter from 1.5" to 1 1/8" then you can mount any headset you want, Chris King, FSA, or whatever. Some builders have put the flush adapter on the bottom and the tapered one on top. Take the time and read every page and you can dig out some good info. Also look at "Any Super V's out there?" thread.

    I did my own build, and continue to improve the components as the months go by. I also continue to improve my riding and am now able to keep up with some of the riders that used to leave me crying by the trailside...just like my Daddy used to do to me!

    And it is great to get comments from other riders that cannot believe your bike is 12 years old. It is a great conversation starter.

    Happy riding!!!
    Last edited by heartfixer; 03-24-2008 at 08:12 AM.

  11. #511
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    Quote Originally Posted by heartfixer
    I used the Cane Creek Double Xc short headset on my Uber. I paid $99 plus shipping. From what I saw later you might be able to get them for about $75.

    I had to saw off some of the "skirt" that presses into the head tube so the headset would fit. The headset bearings were too "tall" by about 1/4".

    I measured the insertion depth of the head tube..if I remember correctly it was about .500" but the dbl Xc short needs about .750" depth. I had already scratched the headset doing a trial fit so I could not return it for credit, so I scribed a line with my digital mics and used a hacksaw to cut off the excess. "Hack" is the operative word because the cut was far from straight. I took some time and a flat file to clean up the cut and blew off the aluminum dust with compressed air. I fabbed a bearing press with 5/8" threaded rod and some washers from Lowe's. The bearings pressed in just fine. I have been happy with the headset.

    You can also use the alloy adapters to reduce the headtube diameter from 1.5" to 1 1/8" then you can mount any headset you want, Chris King, FSA, or whatever. Some builders have put the flush adapter on the bottom and the tapered one on top. Take the time and read every page and you can dig out some good info. Also look at "Any Super V's out there?" thread.

    I did my own build, and continue to improve the components as the months go by. I also continue to improve my riding and am now able to keep up with some of the riders that used to leave me crying by the trailside...just like my Daddy used to do to me!

    And it is great to get comments from other riders that cannot believe your bike is 12 years old. It is a great conversation starter.

    Happy riding!!!
    Hey Heartfixer-
    I think you must have a Double XC or a Double XC Flush. The Double XC Short is designed specifically for the Cannondale headtube and requires no modification.
    http://www.canecreek.com/double-xc-headset.html

  12. #512
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    You are right...my bad!

    "Hey Heartfixer-
    I think you must have a Double XC or a Double XC Flush. The Double XC Short is designed specifically for the Cannondale headtube and requires no modification.
    http://www.canecreek.com/double-xc-headset.html


    Yeah, you are exactly right! I used the Double Xc Flush.My apologies.

    See what happens when an amateur tries to do the job of a professional?

  13. #513
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    Re: Headset adaper

    I've looking on buying one of theese when I come to replacing my headset:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?modelID=2219

    Is it similar to any of the ones you've tested, or should I go look for something else?


    Right now I have something that seems to be an older version of the Cane Creek Double XC-short headset. It's worn and the stack height under the headtube i almost negative... so I will eventually repleace it with something that gives me a little slacker angles.

    /P-M

  14. #514
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmex
    I've looking on buying one of theese when I come to replacing my headset:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/M...x?modelID=2219

    Is it similar to any of the ones you've tested, or should I go look for something else?


    Right now I have something that seems to be an older version of the Cane Creek Double XC-short headset. It's worn and the stack height under the headtube i almost negative... so I will eventually repleace it with something that gives me a little slacker angles.

    /P-M
    I would use the Problem Solvers Cannondale Headtube Reducers. They fit into Cannondale Headset cups. It's the easiest way to slacken the HT angle while reducing to fit a 1 1/8" headset.

    More info here:
    What length steerer tube do I need for my SuperVee?

  15. #515
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    Quote Originally Posted by rw420
    I would use the Problem Solvers Cannondale Headtube Reducers. They fit into Cannondale Headset cups. It's the easiest way to slacken the HT angle while reducing to fit a 1 1/8" headset.

    More info here:
    What length steerer tube do I need for my SuperVee?
    That's what I was referring to as the "ones you've tested"


    Since I don't have the original Cannondale cups (I think), don't I need to exchange my current cups for a reducer? (I'll get some pics next time I'm doing some service on the bike)

    Did you only do anything else than just take off your headshock and put the Headtube Reducers inbetween the original cup and your new headset?


    /P-M

  16. #516
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    Nice pictures Tommurz and StuperV. Thanks!

    You're a real camouflage pro Stuper. How do you do that?

  17. #517
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    Quote Originally Posted by pmex
    Since I don't have the original Cannondale cups (I think), don't I need to exchange my current cups for a reducer?
    You won't be able use the Problem Solvers reducers without Cannondale Headshok headset cups. The Problem Solvers replace the Cannondale headset bearings in the cups. The other options do not require the Cannondale cups as they press directly into the headtube

    Quote Originally Posted by pmex
    Did you only do anything else than just take off your headshock and put the Headtube Reducers inbetween the original cup and your new headset?
    I use the Super V adapters so I had to remove the Headshok headset entirely and then install the adapters and King headset.

  18. #518
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdcamb
    Ignoring it until rw420 tells me I gotta do something with it?? I tripped over it the other day as it is sitting on rw's basement floor. So I guess it is available.

    You still up for this, I have everything ready to go but the frame

    Thanks man and let me know

  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by rw420
    You won't be able use the Problem Solvers reducers without Cannondale Headshok headset cups. The Problem Solvers replace the Cannondale headset bearings in the cups. The other options do not require the Cannondale cups as they press directly into the headtube

    I use the Super V adapters so I had to remove the Headshok headset entirely and then install the adapters and King headset.
    Ok. Thanks for the info.

    /P-M

  20. #520
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    Quote Originally Posted by zen bicycle
    You still up for this, I have everything ready to go but the frame

    Thanks man and let me know
    Hey zen bike,
    It's still in my basement. jdcamb has been pretty busy with work lately. I know he wants to send you some good pictures before you commit to buying it. It's not bad but it's certainly not beautiful either. It will definitely get you riding though!
    rw

  21. #521
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    Nice bikes everybody! I'm thinking of upgrading the 80mm headshok in my 2002 Super V for a more suitable fork. Any suggestions?

  22. #522
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    about the cammo paint question:
    there are several ways to do this, you can take masking tape and cut it into little squares and lay out the design like that. i have done it this way before, its painstaking and leave a lot of opportunity for the paint to work its way into any space that isn't perfectly taped over.
    what i did this time is design some stencils in ms paint and took them to a sign shop. the sign shop cut them out onto stencil vynal. you have to do these one color at a time.
    honestly, the hardest part of this project was selecting the right colors to blend into the terrain where i ride

  23. #523
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    Thanks RW,

    As long as there is nothing structurally wrong I am fine. I will most likely strip it and powder coat it anyway. Thanks for the update I understand the work thing.

  24. #524
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    Quote Originally Posted by rw420
    Here's an updated shot of my white Uber. I was able to trade my polished swingarm for a white one. I had the cranks off anyway so it was easy to swap it out. I think it looks much better this way-
    Totally, the all white looks mint. Big rotors, must be the 36 Talas too? Sweet, serious rig...

  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by tommurtz
    Totally, the all white looks mint. Big rotors, must be the 36 Talas too? Sweet, serious rig...
    Nope - it's a 32, just like yours.
    I just picked up another police-edition front triangle. It's a '99. Haven't built it yet but it should look good with my black swingarm.

  26. #526
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    Updated pictures of my Uber. Recently installed a 2008 Magura Louise BAT hydraulic front brake with a 203mm Venti-disc rotor. I had ordered a 180mm rotor but the LBS got in the 203mm. It seemed like too much effort to send it back and have to wait. Goes well with 2.35 Fat Albert and can handle just about any downhill. I'm saving up now for the rear brake and a 180mm disc.

    BTW, I really like the white and camo Uber's recently posted. Make me want to build another one.






    Cannondale Uber V 900

    Being second is to be the first of the ones who lose - Ayrton Senna

  27. #527
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stinch
    Updated pictures of my Uber. Recently installed a 2008 Magura Louise BAT hydraulic front brake with a 203mm Venti-disc rotor. I had ordered a 180mm rotor but the LBS got in the 203mm. It seemed like too much effort to send it back and have to wait. Goes well with 2.35 Fat Albert and can handle just about any downhill. I'm saving up now for the rear brake and a 180mm disc.

    BTW, I really like the white and camo Uber's recently posted. Make me want to build another one.
    Looks awesome. You'll really appreciate the 8" rotor.

    And didn't you want that fork for the IS brake mount?

  28. #528
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    Killer Camo!!

    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    about the cammo paint question... honestly, the hardest part of this project was selecting the right colors to blend into the terrain where i ride
    Dude, I love the digital camo!! You did an awesome job!! One question, where did you end up getting your paints? Did you have some custom shades made up or did you find something "off the shelf" so to speak?

    I was gonna camo my Uber before I built it up, but then decided I'd probably F it all up, so I left it as is... but now I'm working on another, much larger project that I'd like to do in camo, but I can't seem to find the right shade of green. Yours looks just about right...

    P.S. If this is too far OT, just shoot me a PM. thx

    Quote Originally Posted by Soupboy
    Thread thread has a strong quasi-Craig's List Casual Encounters Man on Man vibe. I digress. As you were.

  29. #529
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    I'm back - Uber Update

    Well when I started building up my Uber it was Fall and the wife was pregnant so once I got it together I didn't have a lot of time to play with it BUTTTT I did get it out a few times and really felt I screwed up big time on the fork selection. I had gone with a Marzocchi All Mountain 2 which at 150 MM is just WAY too tall, makes the steering really goofy. The swingarm that I got from mendon cycles (thanks again Craig) was of course perfect and with the 5th element out back and the All Mountain 2 ETA engaged to drop it down to 130MM the bike climbs like a billy goat evading a cougar but even at 130 MM the fork feels too tall and makes the whole package feel really unstable on fast turns or even just tooling around. So I made the bike more phyisically comfortable for riding, improved it's climbing but killed its nimbleness. Back to the drawing board I went. I reread this whole post and the SuperV and narrowed my fork choices down a bit. I got my tax return and intend to sell the Marzocchi once I get a replacement so that helped my budget... and I found a 2007 Fox TALAS RLC.... WOOOHOOO, sucker has enough steerer tube, and it is advertised as having been mounted but never ridden and was a good price so I pulled the trigger. Now I am waiting for the tracking number... so hopefully I will soon post another update with a far better opinion of my Uber.

    So just to sum up, the Marzocchi All Mountain 2 is a nice fork at the price point, ETA works well, at full height it takes hits and laughs at them... but it is the WRONG fork for this build... lesson learned, learn from my goof up folks! catch ya all later! I'll be sitting here grinning like an idiot waiting for my new toy

  30. #530
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    New Site for Uber Info

    I've just begun putting together information about our experiences with the Ubers and technical information about how we build them. It's part of a site we are developing for Rochester, NY area mountain biking.
    http://forum.tryonbike.com/index.php?board=5.0

    So far I've written an introduction and a primer on selecting swingarms. There is still much more to come including information about our experiences with:
    • Frame/Tab modification
    • Headtube Adapters/Fork Selection
    • Rear shock selection
    • Cockpit/Geometry
    • Frame Failure

    This should provide a bit more structured source for those looking to see how we build them. The intention is for this to be a place for collaboration. Feel free to participate:

  31. #531
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    Quote Originally Posted by rw420
    I've just begun putting together information about our experiences with the Ubers and technical information about how we build them. It's part of a site we are developing for Rochester, NY area mountain biking.
    http://forum.tryonbike.com/index.php?board=5.0

    So far I've written an introduction and a primer on selecting swingarms. There is still much more to come including information about our experiences with:
    • Frame/Tab modification
    • Headtube Adapters/Fork Selection
    • Rear shock selection
    • Cockpit/Geometry
    • Frame Failure

    This should provide a bit more structured source for those looking to see how we build them. The intention is for this to be a place for collaboration. Feel free to participate:
    Hey RW, if you start a topic along the lines of "Parts to avoid and why" I'll happily contribute my experience with the fork. Or maybe you should break it out by component to be more easily navigated... for instance have a topic of Forks, then two subtopics, "Forks that work on Ubers" and "Forks that don't work on Ubers and Why." Adding the WHY to the latter will help people sort through personnal preference issues versus plain bad mixes from an engineering perspective. If you do topics along that line for the major components then it will make it easier for anyone to get the straight scoop on a particular item instead of surfing 30 pages of assorted unrelated info.

    Thanks for putting that together though, that looks like it will be a great resource for the folks who sooner or later will catch the Uber bug.

    Anyway, I guess I am a bit far OT here so feel free to PM me, I'd be glad to contribute in what ways I can to help repay all the info I have gleaned from these forums.

  32. #532
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    New question here. 2007 Fox TALAS 32 RLC steerer tube length?

    For those of you running a 2007 Fox TALAS 32 RLC on your UverV, can I ask what length you are ending up with for the steerer tube? I am running a Large frame so if anyone with that combo could let me know where they ended up that would be great... I just bought one with 8.5 inches on it, it will be here next Tuesday and I just got one of those bad vibes that hey... maybe that won't be enough? I am only at 8.25 in on the Marzocchi but it also has a higher crown height and different measurements otherwise so now I am not sure if I may need to put some spacing in at the bottom of the head tube on the Talas...

    Thanks in advance fellas!

  33. #533
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    Quote Originally Posted by stwilson74
    For those of you running a 2007 Fox TALAS 32 RLC on your UverV, can I ask what length you are ending up with for the steerer tube? I am running a Large frame so if anyone with that combo could let me know where they ended up that would be great... I just bought one with 8.5 inches on it, it will be here next Tuesday and I just got one of those bad vibes that hey... maybe that won't be enough?
    I think I use about 9.5" of steerer. 8.5" is certainly long enough to work, even with a tall headtube adapter. But since you're lowering the handlebar so much compared to your current setup you might want to consider a taller handlebar or stem to compensate.

    Quote Originally Posted by stwilson74
    ...I am not sure if I may need to put some spacing in at the bottom of the head tube on the Talas...
    I'm not sure what you mean. Are you considering using a standard 1 1/8" headset so you can use an adapter that adds some headtube height?

  34. #534
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    9.5... oh boy, ok well hopefully I will be ok with the 8.5

    And ya, I was considering pulling the reducer cups off my wife's killer-v and swapping em with the headset I have now if I need to play with crown clearance or anything... just going over all the what-ifs until the fork actually gets here Tues...

    Thanks RW

  35. #535
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    Well, finally got the seal kit from fox and put the shock back together. Pretty easy. I'll try to post pics before the shock sticks down again

  36. #536
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    arg, well a little FYI. the Cane Creek Cloud 9 doesn't play well with the jekyl rear end. it won't clear the front of it to be able to bolt on. so it looks like i will be going Uber right off the bat. i am have a bit of trouble finding a 7.5 i2i shock. has anyone tried the 7.875 i2i on their Uber? i found a few good deals on DHX airs but only in that size

  37. #537
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    from rw420

    back on page 8

    We discovered through experimentation that using the longer-stroke shock (7.875x2.25) creates a strange suspension rate curve where the shock first ramps up and then ramps down, thereby blowing through the end of the stroke. In other words, you don't really get the benefit of the extra 3/4" travel. (It also made the bike way too tall.) We have also seen this effect to a lessor extent on medium-size frames where we didn't have enough room on the tabs to move the shock mount a full 7/8" forward. laxin1 (my nephew) runs a bit less sag to counteract this effect at the end of the stroke.
    and page 7

    The longer rear shock didn't work out for me. After a couple trail rides (~28 miles) it became obvious that the bike just didn't handle as well as I'm used to. It was too tall. I felt like I was more 'on top' of the cockpit than 'in it'. It also felt like it changed the arc of the swingarm too much - pushed it beyond the horizontal and down 'under' the pivot. One cool thing was that this allowed the bike to jump vertically very easily from a dead stop. But I'm no trials rider and that feature didn't lend itself well to my style of trail riding. I also found that even though I had an additional 3/4" of rear wheel travel, I was blowing through all of it even with the bottom out damping cranked down and my sag set appropriately.

    So I replaced the 7.875x2.25 shock with a 7.5x2. This brought the rear end down but slackened the geometry by over a degree, which would make the 160mm setting on the fork virtually useless. To bring the fork in range, I reversed the headtube adapters and moved the tall part above the headtube. This was exactly what it needed. After doing my normal 14 mile ride, I have to say that I'm very pleased. The geometry is exactly where I want it with the fork in 130mm mode. In that position it feels like my normal target geometry for setting up the Ubers. For big events, I can pop it up to 160mm with a flick of the lever and it also drops down to 100mm where it climbs like a goat. The bike feels very 'flickable' despite the addition of about 3 pounds over my other setup with the Talas 140. I'm thinking that these two setups are going to make a nice stable - they seem similar enough that I can easily switch between them, yet I think the different forks will give each of them individual characteristics.

  38. #538
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    gahh i want to ride so bad right now.

  39. #539
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryguy79
    from rw420

    back on page 8



    and page 7
    took the words right out of my mouth...

  40. #540
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    i wish i'd ridden my uber instead of my 7point yesterday, probably wouldn't have sprained my wrist getting stupid...

  41. #541
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    Huh, thats odd I have a Cloud 9 in the 7.5 X 2.0 e2e and it fits fine and rides great. There's just enough space for everything to work. Call Cane Creek and talk to them about it, they'll set you up.



    Alea Jacta Est

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    looks like we have different models of the same shock. mine is too fat to fit.

  43. #543
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    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    has anyone tried the 7.875 i2i on their Uber?
    My 7.875" 'Zocchi TST coil works great. I've got their AM1 fork up front. They work well together. I can drop the fork down for climbing or riding around town. I don't think they are making the AM1 this year though, but I'm sure you can find something similar in their current stable of bomber forks. People always swear by the Z1 FR SL if they are still making them. It was a little more than I had to spend at the time. The Z1 may be a better choice, but the 7.875" rear works well with a slightly taller fork.

  44. #544
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    Interesting thread since I have an old V frame in the garage. i have a question that I couldn't find the answer to, with the longer shocks and forks, what kind of bottom bracket heights are you guys winding up with? Some of those pictured look pretty tall, but the V kinda makes the perspective look a little wacky. Thanks.
    The red couch has moved from Alaska to Florida...

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK Chris
    Interesting thread since I have an old V frame in the garage. i have a question that I couldn't find the answer to, with the longer shocks and forks, what kind of bottom bracket heights are you guys winding up with?
    All the taller suspended bikes have a taller bottom bracket height. When you get on them they sag and when you use the brakes they seesaw a bit. It's the nature of the beast. The better forks and shocks isolate the rider to some degree, the way good truck springs and shocks do.

  46. #546
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK Chris
    Interesting thread since I have an old V frame in the garage. i have a question that I couldn't find the answer to, with the longer shocks and forks, what kind of bottom bracket heights are you guys winding up with? Some of those pictured look pretty tall, but the V kinda makes the perspective look a little wacky. Thanks.
    I just measured 5 different Ubers. All have unladen BB heights in the range of 13.5" to 13.75". As detailed in an earlier post, my experiences with using a 7.875" i2i shock were very different than jerrynorton's. I found that the longer shock made the bottom bracket too tall and created a feeling of being 'on top' of the bike rather than 'in' it. But I was using a DHX rather than a 'zoch so that could also make a difference. The setups that we use with Fox forks and Fox DHX rear shocks do not result in any "seesaw" effect. These are nice tight trailbikes that climb anything and pin an extra nutsack on ya when you turn downhill.

  47. #547
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    Quote Originally Posted by rw420
    The setups that we use with Fox forks and Fox DHX rear shocks do not result in any "seesaw" effect.
    It may not be very noticeable, but I've never encountered a shock or spring setup yet that doesn't dive some upon hard braking. By nature suspension is active. The only systems I know of that are minimally subject to such are on very upscale vehicles that use level and acceleration sensors and active electronic suspensions. From what I understand, they use a substance in the shock body that becomes thicker or more viscous when an electric current is applied.

  48. #548
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    Cloud 9 shock fit...

    Quote Originally Posted by stuperV
    looks like we have different models of the same shock. mine is too fat to fit.
    Not suggesting you might suffer the same brain cramps I suffer, but have you mounted the shock the same direction as the other builder? I have noticed on a couple of bikes they have the fat end of the shock to the rear of the bike while most bikes have it towards the front. Looking at the pics, the fat end of the Cloud 9 might hit the swingarm if it is mounted towards the rear. Hope it helps.

  49. #549
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    There's enough space for the Cloud Nine to be mounted in either direction with out hitting the frame. I've also had a AD-12 mounted on the bike with no issues.

    We're not talking about the shock reducers are we? The spacing on the Jekyll swing arm is a lot narrower than on my original 100sl swing arm. I gave Cane Creek the needed dimensions of my frame (16mm for the swing arm, 22mm for the frame tabs) and they machined the reducers down for me at no extra cost.
    Alea Jacta Est

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    Hey RW....good info on the Uber-build!!

    I looked at the site you created for the Uber-istas to reference when building up their bikes....very good! I am not web-savvy enough to build a webpage for keeping all of the info in one place. I had considered gleaning through all of the previous pages and doing a cut-and-paste for the good stuff...but every time I tried to go back through all of the pages I would get distracted by the pics of other builds and stuff and end up spending two-three hours and have little info to show for my time!!

    If the Uber-builders could come up with maybe a "top ten" components list for their bike wish-list I think that would help the rest of us. Or maybe a "budget build" list for those on a tighter budget, but still wanting to have an Uber.

    Saw a guy on the trail today with a nice Spesh, and his 10 year-old son riding an even better one. After we talked bikes for a few minutes he said I had a beautiful bike and asked where I got it!

    I just installed my drive-train upgrades: SRAM X-0 shifters, cassette, rear derailleur and x-9 front derailleur, XTR crank with egg-beaters. Shifting is lightning-fast and precise. Very satisfied with the X0 stuff...now if I can re-program my brain for the thumb-thumb instead of the thumb-finger!!

    Happy riding!!

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