Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 50 of 73
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surf418's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    177

    Post you RUSH 650B

    Finnaly,
    Here is my old 2008 Rush 4 converted to 650B. It feels like a complete different bike, feels like it was meant to be a 650B.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post you RUSH 650B-p9020231.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-p9020239.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-p9020240.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-p9020234.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-p9020233.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-p9020236.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-p9020237.jpg  

    08 Rush 4 - 650B
    10 Synapse 5 Carbon

  2. #2
    No good in rock gardens..
    Reputation: Sideknob's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Posts
    3,835
    Nice. Is the swingarm X brace still in there?
    Less isn't MOAR

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surf418's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    177
    Quote Originally Posted by Sideknob View Post
    Nice. Is the swingarm X brace still in there?
    You're right, no room for original brace. If i ever feel the need, it will make a new one and put it on the other side of the tabs but for now, i do not feel the difference with or without.
    08 Rush 4 - 650B
    10 Synapse 5 Carbon

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Duncan1104's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Posts
    1,176
    Quote Originally Posted by surf418 View Post
    You're right, no room for original brace. If i ever feel the need, it will make a new one and put it on the other side of the tabs but for now, i do not feel the difference with or without.
    If you do make another brace for the other side of the tabs, make sure it doesn't contact the seat tube.

  5. #5
    Ridin' dirty!
    Reputation: cdalemaniac's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    1,948
    That has to be the nicest Rush I've seen.
    "Common sense isn't always that common!"
    Custom Prophet and Custom Delta V

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mangarush's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    17
    @Surf418: I'm thinking about to do the same with my 2007 rush 05. Are you happy with this wheelset? why? Is it an expensive transformation?

    thanks!

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ccaddy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    1,719
    Does 650B help improve crankarm height ?
    And yes .....conversion costs please .
    Might be an alternative to a new bike .

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Mangarush's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    17
    about crankarm, the bike raise about 19 mm. (more or less the half of 1"1/2)

  9. #9
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surf418's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    177
    Mangarush: very happy with this choice. Hope Pro2 EVO+ Lefty SI hub+ Blunt SL+DT Swiss comp= a little less than $700.
    Yep, it raise the BB of 3/4" and it shows, no more rubbin.
    It definitely feels like a new bike once completed and it worth every dollars spent.
    Very satisfied of Pacenti Neo 2.1, great all-around tire.

    Do not hesitate, the Rush frame is a keeper. I love the low maintenance swing arm and also like the fact that's is "made in the USA".
    08 Rush 4 - 650B
    10 Synapse 5 Carbon

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    57
    My 650b Carbon Rush on Pikes Peak this past summer. Ridden up from 6000ft to 12000ft to watch the auto hill climb.

    Stans 355 wheel conversion, DT hubs. I obtained a spare swingarm and removed the brace tabs. The 2.3 tire cleared the tabs, but I wanted a little more room.

    24.25lbs with NeoMoto 2.3s and 23.5lbs with Racing Ralphs

    The 650b wheels really improved the Rush. Better rollover, traction and no more pedal strikes. Still rails in the quick single track as the Rush always did. What a great trail bike it is now. If you have a Rush, this is a highly recommended and simple conversion, do it!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post you RUSH 650B-rush650bposersmall0.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-rush650bposersmall1.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-rush650bposersmall2.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-rush650bposersmall3.jpg  


  11. #11
    High Alpine Adventure
    Reputation: DaGoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,770
    Quote Originally Posted by superv43 View Post
    My 650b Carbon Rush on Pikes Peak this past summer.
    Very nice Super!
    Dug-Da-Goat

    Something changes at 12,000'
    ...so welcome to the Odyssey!

    Building your trails at FooMTB

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    42
    so a 2.3 neo moto will clear the rear if i go 650b on my RUSH?

    what do you guys recommend for aggressive single track riding with occasional jumps; a 2.1 or 2.3 neo moto?

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surf418's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    177
    i ride 2.1, got great traction on all-terrain, nice clearance on the swing arm.
    08 Rush 4 - 650B
    10 Synapse 5 Carbon

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Posts
    301
    Nice bikes!
    Forks are for eating, Lefty's are for racing,

  15. #15
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    67
    Nice bikes - I sooo want to do this
    '07 Rush Carbon 2

  16. #16
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    20
    Cool bikes , it sure seems like it would rub the seat tube.
    Herbalastin'

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    83
    Great bikes,
    I wonder if i can convert my caffeine 2009 hard tail to 650b....

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation: surf418's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    177
    Quote Originally Posted by Herb will heal the nation View Post
    Cool bikes , it sure seems like it would rub the seat tube.
    It may seems to you but it never does, not with my setup that's for sure.
    08 Rush 4 - 650B
    10 Synapse 5 Carbon

  19. #19
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    anybody getting tire rub on hard hits with neo moto 2.3s on the rear? I've got some rub back there and I'm wondering whether I perhaps have a shock that has too much travel, as I bought the bike second hand. It's not bad and it's only on pretty hard hits, but I don't want to get caught out there!

  20. #20
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    16
    This is my 650b'd '08 Rush Carbon.

    I'm running the Quasi 2.0 rear and Neo 2.3 up front.
    Stans Crest rims, SuperComp 1.7 spokes, Stans 3.30 rear hub and generic Lefty front hub.
    I bought from probikesupply.com and they were fantastic to deal with (very good service, made shipping easy--I am in Canada). Great price, too. Highly recommended if you want to go with a Stans "No Tubes" build.

    Yes, I had to remove the brace. Yes, the 650b mod was an improvement. No, it's not perfect.

    I do love the increased BB height as I am striking my pedals far less. I also love that the bike is noticeably better at rolling over obstacles. But, the higher centre of gravity does make the bike feel different... I find it less "flowy" through the twisty stuff, steering feels a bit slower, and I find that downhill sections I am a bit less confident/relaxed.

    Still, though, overall it was a good switch and my Crossmax SLRs will be up for sale soon.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post you RUSH 650B-photo-1.jpg  

    Post you RUSH 650B-photo-3.jpg  


  21. #21
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    Did you modify the shock with a travel reducer? I didn't think the monarchs did 1.75"

  22. #22
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    Did you modify the shock with a travel reducer? I didn't think the monarchs did 1.75"
    Sharp eye, my friend.

    I was running this bike with a Fox RPL until last fall when it decided to spew oil all over the place. I quickly got in touch with Push and they built me a Monarch RT with the proper 7.5 x 1.75 configuration. I've been very happy with the shock, still haven't rebuilt the RPL (though I should try to get around to that...).

    I'm running 2x9 +bash as well. 24/36 rings with an 11-34 cassette. The build is all 2007 XTR and the hollowgrams are also the non-SL version from 2007. I swapped frames as I needed a size L (my '07 was a M).

    I mention the gear ratios because I forgot to mention the other change with 650b... the granny gear feels like less of a granny gear. :P I still get up all the same climbs, though...perhaps more as a result of the increased traction of the 650b setup.

    If any of you reading this know anything about the Fox RLC lefty... please see my other post a few threads down!

  23. #23
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Posts
    1

    650b conversion

    I'm wanting to convert my rush 1 carbon to a 650b. Have you noticed any problems with removing rear brace/bracket so the 650b can fit? Any loss in stability or risk of damage to the frame?

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by cdale98 View Post
    I'm wanting to convert my rush 1 carbon to a 650b. Have you noticed any problems with removing rear brace/bracket so the 650b can fit? Any loss in stability or risk of damage to the frame?
    Sorry, uber late response...

    No. Lots of Rush owners have removed the brace and I've not heard of any troubles. I notice absolutely no difference with or without it.

  25. #25
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    2

    Rush 97.5er?

    Hello,

    My first post here. I have an '06 Cdale Rush 800 (Al) size XL that I've upgraded quite a bit, and I've been seriously considering converting to 650b. The stock wheels need replacing anyway because they are worn out and keep coming out of true with my weight (210 lbs). I have a somewhat crazy idea, and that is to use a 29er up front, with reducer in Lefty of course, and use a 650b in the rear. Would this work and has anyone tried this? If so, are there any other changes required? I mostly ride cross country with nothing overly technical. Thanks

  26. #26
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    I would stick with 650b front and rear if you're going to convert. The rush is a fairly slack bike and I noticed a reasonably negative change in climbing ability when I added 20mm of travel (though axle to crown only changed like 15mm somehow). The front end started to get wandery but I'm learning to cope. I would think that the addition of another 1.2" or whatever it is in height will really make the bike floppy.

    I don't see why you _couldn't_ do a 975, but the value is pretty limited, especially when you consider how good the rush handles naturally. IMO, the slightly raised BB due to 650 wheels is a benefit on this bike, but front travel should really hover around 110-120mm, as the head angle is already at like 69*.

    Sidenote...how tall are you? These bikes are looooooooooong. XL has got to be what, 25.5" long? I had a large prophet before this and it was a nightmare...I'm 5'11" on a medium.

  27. #27
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    42
    I noticed no room for 650b with rear swingarm brace. Has anyone found a problem to remove the brace?

  28. #28
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    Most people seem to have no issue removing the brace. I have an 06 which never had the brace and it's fine.

  29. #29
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    2
    Thanks for the reply. Im an 6'4" with a 34" inseam, and yes, the Rush is very long. I also have a Sette Ace that I bought as a frame from Pricepoint, and it appears like the Ace is almost 2 inches shorter. Unfortunately the Ace's swingarm and Magura fork do not allow the clearance needed for 650b or I'd convert it instead.

    So would you say overall the conversion is a worthy investment for the Rush, or just stick to 26er? Still deciding between I9s or other brands.

  30. #30
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    Oh hell yes. I love my bike. I ride on the east coast so pedal strikes were a serious issue with two of my other bikes, but they haven't been apparent on the B/rush. The handling is similar, and with the right shock and setup, the clearance is fine for a Pacenti Neo-moto 2.3. I haven't tried the nobby nice 2.2, but that might be my next tire, if the pacentis become unobtanium (they are great great tires).

    The one thing I would suggest also considering is a custom tune for the shock. I had mine tuned by Vorsprung in Whistler, and the results were fantastic. My overdamped, stiff shock turned into a plush, controlled ride that gave good feedback but destroys roots. I'm running like 50 more PSI in the shock because the damping isn't as harsh anymore. That's more of a rush thing, and not a wheel thing.

    For wheels alone, I say go for it. The rush is every bit as capable as most bikes out there, handles great, and 4.3" of travel is a surprisingly effective tool for singletrack slaying.

  31. #31
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    359

    ... and if we just ... My 650b'd Rush

    Here's mine. Had a chance to ride it most of the summer since I changed it over. The wheels really made a difference to me. The positives for me are no more pedal strikes, awesome traction (really like the Ra Ra's) and roll -ability.
    It was a 2006 frame so no brace to remove either.
    I was having so much fun on it that I decided to get some lights and cold weather gear and keep riding right into the winter!
    I snagged an RP23 off ebay, so that is the next upgrade.


  32. #32
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    10
    This is precisely the reason why i finally bought an older 2006 rush. As soon as my wallet can recuperate from the hit it took after buying a new bike, im planning on building a 650b wheelset with Tune Hubs (in silver to match my lefty carbon) laced to a set of Stan's Archs or Flows. Im stoked.

    quick question though:

    Im not sure if the wheels will clear the front derailer without modification or replacement. Replacement would mean getting rid of my XT dual controls and would increase the cost of the upgrade and delay it as such. Nobody around here has a set of 650bs for me to do a simple test, so can anyone comment on what front derailer they are using and what the clearance is like?

  33. #33
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    The front derailleur is the one fault I can find with my conversion. The Rush is not an overly stiff frame, and it does flex under HARD pedaling inputs. My tires rub on the front derailleur when it flexes. I resolved this by dropping the derailleur further down on the seat tube, which all but eliminated the problem with my Pacenti 2.3s, but when I switched to nevegal 2.3s, the problem resurfaced. I reduced the low limit, which reduced rub from the tire, as well as some "cross chaining" issues I had with little ring/big cog setup. Now, I just deal with the occasional rub as it really only happens when I'm out of the saddle climbing something really hard, and the nevegals only come up in the winter/slick times, so when I'm racking up the miles in the summer I'll be back on the narrower pacenti neo motos.

    I have an LX front derailleur and XT shifter, aluminum mainframe, 2x9 (22 and 32t) setup. You shouldn't have to change your shifter if you change your derailleur, unless you go 10 speed, and even then you may be able to tune it right.

    I'm tempted by the thought of going 1x9 for simplicity's sake, but I like having a small and big chainring on this bike with the pivot height it has. I'll probably try and continue to fiddle with it until it rubs minimally, or just ignore it until I inevitably get the bug to try something else. I would ideally like to switch to a 24/36 setup, in order to get a wider selection of gears. I don't use the 22fx32rr unless I'm really dogging it.

  34. #34
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Posts
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    The front derailleur is the one fault I can find with my conversion.
    Thanks for the quick input!

    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    You shouldn't have to change your shifter if you change your derailleur, unless you go 10 speed, and even then you may be able to tune it right.
    I know, but i really dislike these dual controls. The idea behind them is great, but only being able to downshift while braking is just plain idiotic (i have an up spring rear derailer). Unless i find a reversed front and a normal rear, they might even get swapped out before i try 650b.

    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    I'm tempted by the thought of going 1x9 for simplicity's sake, but I like having a small and big chainring on this bike with the pivot height it has.
    I agree. There are no real big hills in Berlin, and even if i take the bike somewhere where there are hills, i like having a big chainring to spin in the city, and a small ring for the inevitable mud that occurs on my weekly ride.

    Is it as simple as adding the tire size to the rim size to measure how big your wheels are? I.e. 26 rim + 2.25 tire = rolling size of 28.25? And by the same means a 27.5 + 2.3 = 29.8? More importantly, to what extent does the rear travel move upwards and inwards? Do you think i could test a 700c wheel to simulate 650b?

  35. #35
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    My bike originally came with dual control, which I rode for a little bit but eventually ditched in favor of separate shifters for obvious reasons. I didn't hate them that much though, the movements are surprisingly separate and maintain some level of intuition, but separate shifters allow you to use better brakes or better shifters, so...duh.

    As for wheel size, the only accurate way to predict the size of the wheel is to measure it. I'm sure there are people in the 650b forum that can tell you the full diameter of a 650b wheel with xyz tire. 650b is not equal to 27.5, it's actually something like 27.1" or somesuch. It's not a giant gain in diameter, but it is noticeable and it works.

    For me, I had some rubbing issues between tire and seat tube with my initial, factory shock. I'm guessing that the stopper that shortens travel was compressing on bottom out. Since my shock was too firmly damped for my weight and for the frame, I ran very low pressure, and ended up bottoming out a lot. I have since purchased an RP23, sent it off to Vorsprung suspension in Canada for a custom tune and stroke reduction, and have not had a problem since.

    The tire does move up and forward, but not a lot, and with the correct shock, you shouldn't have a problem. The Rush is really a mid-pivot bike, the pivot is in line with the mid chainring, just about. It has to move rearward and upward before it starts to move forward, which happens when the rear axle hits that mid chainring height. It makes the rush one of the best climbing and accelerating bikes I've owned.

  36. #36
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    359
    The only issue I had was with the front der. as well. I have an X9 setup. There is plenty of fore/aft room with the 27.5 rear RaRa, but the der would rub on the tire when it moved inboard to the small chainring. I just adjusted the stops so I don't access the small chainring.
    For my purposes I haven't missed the small chainring, so it has been a good solution for me.

  37. #37
    mtbr member
    Reputation: sandyeggo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    425
    I've had no issues with the front der (X9 with 2.1 Neo Moto's). The only "issue" I've found is riding in during freeze/thaw when the mud just sticks to the bike -- very little mud clearance. My experience was only from riding about 10 ft into the single track and turning right back around so as to avoid trail damage. Other than that, the 650b conversion for the Rush makes an already great bike a better one.
    2015 Trek Stache 7
    2015 Salsa El Mariachi
    2015 Niner RLT

  38. #38
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Posts
    20
    Could some of you who made this conversion please post a picture with the rear end fully compressed (release the air from the shock and push the bike down), to show how much clearance there is between the rear tire and the seat tube at bottom out ?
    Please mention what tire you have mounted and if your shock is a standard (7.5x1.75" i.e 190x45mm) or modified to a shorter travel.

    Thank you !

  39. #39
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Posts
    31

    here is mine....

    a bike that was truly meant for 650B





  40. #40
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    Have any of you that converted your rush tried different tires on your bikes? I'd like to stay with a 2.2-3 size tire, but it looks like my old neo motos might be getting tired. I really like the motos, but now there are the vigilantes, something funny sounding from schwalbe, and probably a few others. Have any of you tried them? Do they have clearance? Vigilantes have a cool tread pattern and are a minimum of $10 less expensive than the panacenti rampmotos.

    Universal Cycles -- WTB Vigilante TCS 650b Tire

  41. #41
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    359
    FWIW, I've had RaRa 2.25s since I converted. I absolutely love them. I ride in the midwest in mostly dry conditions where they really shine. However, I was pleasantly surprised how well they have done in wet conditions. I have a set of NeoMotos for when the RaRas wear out.
    I've heard good stuff about the Neos so I'm looking forward to trying them.

  42. #42
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    9
    Hi !

    HOT BIKE
    did you have any issue with the derailleur on lowest gear running a 650b wheel?
    I want to do the same, but Im afraid that there no clearance on the rear tire with the derailleur.... Any help will will be appreciated...

  43. #43
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    9
    Hi


    did you have any issue with the derailleur on lowest gear running a 650b wheel?
    I want to do the same, but Im afraid that there no clearance on the rear tire with the derailleur.... Any help will will be appreciated...

  44. #44
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    6
    Has anyone attempted to mount a RockShox Revelation 27.5 on their Rush with a 650B wheelset?

    I was looking at the 100mm fork for my 06 Rush 800.

  45. #45
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by Louiepou View Post
    Hi


    did you have any issue with the derailleur on lowest gear running a 650b wheel?
    I want to do the same, but Im afraid that there no clearance on the rear tire with the derailleur.... Any help will will be appreciated...
    I do, depending on setup. With my 2.35 hans dampfs, which don't fit in the frame at all (rub at bottom out, rub on swingarm on turns), I get constant rub on the derailleur. With pacenti neo-motos, I don't get rub with my derailleur adjusted properyl. I don't get rub with nevegal 2.3s except on the hardest efforts.

    I used to love my front derailleur, but I may ditch it for a single, narrow wide 30t ring, and the rub is part of that, but you can get by if you don't mind slightly narrower tires.

    Quote Originally Posted by hondamxracer View Post
    Has anyone attempted to mount a RockShox Revelation 27.5 on their Rush with a 650B wheelset?

    I was looking at the 100mm fork for my 06 Rush 800.
    It shouldn't be a problem. I believe the rush has an almost exact 1.5" headtube, so a normal reducer headset will fit fine. That also means you can use a reducer top, external cup bottom to run a tapered headset if you want. You'll get a little more axle to crown, which will slacken the head angle slightly, but i don't think that's a terrible thing on this bike. I run a 130mm lefty and it feels pretty good, I give just a little up in the climbs but it corners better.

  46. #46
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Posts
    33
    I noticed all the older Rush models, but was wondering if there were any 650b conversions to an RZ-120???
    Joe

  47. #47
    High Alpine Adventure
    Reputation: DaGoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,770
    Quote Originally Posted by Louiepou View Post
    ..did you have any issue with the derailleur on lowest gear running a 650b wheel?
    Not with the derailuer, but I had to add a 10mm spacer into my Rp23 to prevent the tire from hitting the seat tube. So I'm running 120mm in the front and 100mm in the rear.

    I agree with Sandwich, I tried to run a 130 Lefty Max (top photo) and the front end was just way too floppy. With the 120 Ultra I have a very fast response but it doesn't feel floppy. I like that I can adjust my line on a dime, but the responsiveness does take a bit of getting use to.

    Post you RUSH 650B-img_3710-web.jpg
    Post you RUSH 650B-img_4658w.jpg
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post you RUSH 650B-img_4305w.jpg  

    Dug-Da-Goat

    Something changes at 12,000'
    ...so welcome to the Odyssey!

    Building your trails at FooMTB

  48. #48
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    1,102
    Quote Originally Posted by DaGoat View Post
    Not with the derailuer, but I had to add a 10mm spacer into my Rp23 to prevent the tire from hitting the seat tube. So I'm running 120mm in the front and 100mm in the rear.

    I agree with Sandwich, I tried to run a 130 Lefty Max (top photo) and the front end was just way too floppy. With the 120 Ultra I have a very fast response but it doesn't feel floppy. I like that I can adjust my line on a dime, but the responsiveness does take a bit of getting use to.
    man I am super jelly of your carbon frame. I keep looking for one, but apparently so is everybody else. The alloy frames are so damn cheap, too.

    Did you add a 10mm spacer, or reduce travel by 10mm? A 10mm spacer would shave an inch of travel off the frame...that would kind of suck. I haven't had noticeable bottoming issues on mine, except for with the huge HD 2.35s, and before when I had the poorly tuned factory shock. I'm hoping to add a volume spacer over the winter to further add bottoming resistance (and progressivity).

    Also, one of the reasons I like the longer fork is that the leftys do really well moving through travel. I probably run more sag than I should, but the fork just gobbles everything up, and doesn't seem to bottom. I need to do better about accurately measuring air pressure, but it does OK.

    I'm still trying to figure out the best way to corner on this bike. Some days it feels innate, natural, other days I feel like I'm fighting it. I'll keep searching.

  49. #49
    High Alpine Adventure
    Reputation: DaGoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,770
    Quote Originally Posted by sandwich View Post
    man I am super jelly of your carbon frame. I keep looking for one, but apparently so is everybody else. The alloy frames are so damn cheap, too.

    Did you add a 10mm spacer, or reduce travel by 10mm? A 10mm spacer would shave an inch of travel off the frame...that would kind of suck. I haven't had noticeable bottoming issues on mine, except for with the huge HD 2.35s, and before when I had the poorly tuned factory shock. I'm hoping to add a volume spacer over the winter to further add bottoming resistance (and progressivity).

    Also, one of the reasons I like the longer fork is that the leftys do really well moving through travel. I probably run more sag than I should, but the fork just gobbles everything up, and doesn't seem to bottom. I need to do better about accurately measuring air pressure, but it does OK.

    I'm still trying to figure out the best way to corner on this bike. Some days it feels innate, natural, other days I feel like I'm fighting it. I'll keep searching.
    Yeah, I got pretty lucky. I bought my 2007 Carbon Rush on Ebay about 2 years ago for $1800. It was basically new and the guy was selling it because it didn't fit him very well. He basically gave it away.

    Obviously I had to spend some money playing with it. SRAM Grip shifts and Deraileur, AC 650b Wheelset with DTSwiss 10mm rear hub. 120 Ultra Fork and a FSA Setback Seat Post and Crankset (after the Cannondale branded FSA one exploded). So in the end I put probably another $2K into it. I plan to PUSH the shock and the fork needs some "Mendon Love", but man, I'd never give up this bike at this point. It's that much fun!

    As for the shock, I put a 10mm spacer on the RP23 Shaft to limit the travel. It works well, but I'm sure when PUSH gets done with it, it will be that much better. I agree with you that the Lefty's are some of the finest forks made. Small bump compliance is like nothing else I've ever ridden and I've ridden a bunch of different forks (White Bros, Magura, Fox, Rock Shox, Spez). It seems so bottomless when you really rock it. I drop off a bunch of ledgy stuff here in the desert SW and the lefty just seems to soak it all up!!! I will always ride a Lefty... it's the way I roll!!!

    Good luck with the Carbon search Sandwich... they are out there!!! And you might want to keep an eye peeled for the old Orbea Occam.... very similar to the Rush but a little less slack so it might take a 130 MAX!!!
    Dug-Da-Goat

    Something changes at 12,000'
    ...so welcome to the Odyssey!

    Building your trails at FooMTB

  50. #50
    High Alpine Adventure
    Reputation: DaGoat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    1,770
    Quote Originally Posted by wareagleguy View Post
    I noticed all the older Rush models, but was wondering if there were any 650b conversions to an RZ-120???
    Joe
    Hi Joe... you could B6'er an RZ, but I don't think the rear will take a 650b. B6'ing is pretty cool. I did my Titus Racer-X as a B6'er and I really dig the way that thing climbs. Something about the ability to roll over things up front and the drive you get from a fast accelerating 26'er in the rear just makes it seem so right. Obviously there were geometry issues with 96'ers, and that's why they never really caught on, but a B6'er is "dope" for the mountain!
    Dug-Da-Goat

    Something changes at 12,000'
    ...so welcome to the Odyssey!

    Building your trails at FooMTB

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Similar Threads

  1. Rush 650b front end
    By Freediver in forum 27.5
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 02-09-2012, 03:22 PM
  2. Rush 650B/26
    By John© in forum 27.5
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 11-08-2010, 07:44 PM
  3. Rush 650b
    By ZombieWV in forum 27.5
    Replies: 36
    Last Post: 11-01-2010, 07:49 AM
  4. Another 650b Rush
    By madog99 in forum 27.5
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 09-25-2009, 04:49 AM
  5. 650b Rush
    By WindWalker in forum 27.5
    Replies: 13
    Last Post: 02-28-2008, 07:09 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •