Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53

    Oil leak from lefty top cap

    My Lefty DLR2 is on its second damper, as the first one had defective seals from the get go and was replaced under warranty by cannondale. I have had light oil leaking from the bottom of the boot and from under the top rebound knob since the new damper was installed, but I assummed it was from all of teh oil that had poured out of the old damper (twice) and that it would decrease with time. Well, after cleaning out under the boot and after about 15 rides, the boot oil has basically stopped oozing, but there is still oil drooling from the top cap area. It is really hard to pinpoint exactly where it is coming from, but it appears to be from the rebound shaft itself when the knob is removed. Also, the lockout, which obviously didn't work at all with the old damper, and which worked fully when this was first installed, still does generally lockout the fork, but there is still a little less than an inch of travel available when in the locked position. This has been this way for about 10 rides and hasn't changes significantly since then.

    I am getting kind of frustrated with this fork, as it is a great concept, but the constant nagging problems are becoming rather annoying. I am a former shop employee familiar with cannondale headshocks, but stopped working there before the leftys were available. I did replace the damper at the shop i formerly worked at myself when they warrentied the original one, so I am now basically familiar with the inner workings of the fork. Any thoughts on what this problem could be and how to proceed next?

    Oh also another stupid question- to add oil to the dlr2 damper, does the entire assemply need to be dissassembled from the bottom like would be done for seal servicing, or is it ok to just open the top cap and pour some in there?

  2. #2
    7hz
    7hz is offline
    Old newbie
    Reputation: 7hz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    313
    Don't know if the internals are the same, but maybe this will shead light on it? New Fatty DLR broken

    Do you have any damping at all? Sounds like the same condition mine is in at the moment, which is basically with no damping and broken.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53
    There is definitely some damping going on, but the fork doesn't feel as good as it did prior to this problem. This is my 2nd demper, so if this is another QC issue, this is starting to get ridiculous

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Posts
    88
    If you have travel when 'locked-out', then you have lost oil. It sounds like it is coming from the rebound adjuster, so, unfortunately, a new cartridge is needed, again!

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53
    Is there supposed to be ANY movement of the fork when the lockout is engaged under normal operating conditions?

    Also, what is the easiest way to add oil and see if it helps the situation. Can it just be poured in the open top cap when the damper is pulled, or does the whole negative spring and everything have to be removed too.

  6. #6
    Light, Strong and Long
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    194
    I would bleed the cartridge you have right now to see if it fixes it. I've been seeing a lot of problems with this years DLR2's...I've fixed about 4 this past month alone.
    Everyones got a little weight weinee in them

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53
    OK, what is the simplest way to add oil and bleed the cartridge. I know how to pull the shaft from the damper for the full overhaul, but there has to be an easier way to just bleed the ting.

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53
    So I added oil and the lockout was nearly full with no play. Spent a weekend riding and a slow ooze of oil was continuously coming from under/around the lockout lever area. Guess what, the lockout has about an inch of travel again. Obviously this second cartridge is also bad. Either I have horrible luck or the QC on these things is horrible. Sucks because otherwise the Rush is a really fun bike, but this is getting ridiculous.

  9. #9
    7hz
    7hz is offline
    Old newbie
    Reputation: 7hz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    313
    Quote Originally Posted by dawkins20
    Obviously this second cartridge is also bad. Either I have horrible luck or the QC on these things is horrible.
    The QC is appalling.

    You think it's bad in the US, try living in Scotland and waiting 2 weeks between something breaking, and getting a replacement part to get the bike working again (and I don't have another bike).

    My 1st Fatty lost air after a month.
    My 2nd Fatty lost oil before I even got it out the shop, and I think is loosing air now as well (I insisted I took the bike home until a replacement was delivered).

    They are sending a third replacement cartridge, should be here any time now, but I don't think that will solve the air leak, and I am on the brink of giving the bike back and getting a Commencal Supernormal Deluxe instead, as I've totally lost faith that Cannondale can make a fork that works this season, and have already lost enough time waiting for a working bike. Plus if these things are so fragile, badly made, or badly designed, or all three, then I don't want to be stuck with a £400 replacement bill after 1 year and 1 day.

    Really really sucks - badly - as I love the bike otherwise, and love the components, and spent an age getting a test ride and right size and right model , but with these new Korean Cannondales, I see where they are heading, and where their priorities are at

  10. #10
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    12,404
    All true, the DLR2's are plagued with issues, I've seen and dealt with, and fixed a ton. The Max's are so good, once a year service, rock and roll. I wish for their own sake they'd adopt the same platform, reduce A to C and travel for all you Rush and Scalpel riders. Only thing is, you'd lose lockout. But with SPV, it's pretty close........
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  11. #11
    LA CHÈVRE
    Reputation: Dan Gerous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    9,361
    Yep, those Maxes are bombproof reliable bad boys!

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53
    Any possible way to retrofit a Max onto a Rush? I'm only half kidding here, but this DLR2 has really been a nightmare so far.

  13. #13
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    12,404
    Quote Originally Posted by dawkins20
    Any possible way to retrofit a Max onto a Rush? I'm only half kidding here, but this DLR2 has really been a nightmare so far.
    Sure, you can DO it.....but it will slack your HTA by about 1.5 degrees, and will exceed the max A to C you can run. No warranty, but a shock that holds up. I just had to mention it, as there is so much bad press on the DLR2's, had to spread some love for the other, better fork
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Posts
    53
    Yeah, I didn't think it would be such a hot idea. Just grasping at straws here since I also am worried about a fork that needed two new cartridges in less than three months. The long term prospects don't seem too promising.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •