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  1. #1
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Any and all threads that seem worth adding, please tack 'em on. Tony, can we get this stickied?


    Lefty bearing reset


    Lefty rebuild illustrated
    Last edited by CdaleTony; 01-26-2010 at 08:49 PM.
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  2. #2
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    Good idea!

    And rather than just put the link, I would name them or describe what each link is. Like this:

    Lefty Max Rebuild illustrated

    Lefty Bearing Reset thread

    • and so on...
    Last edited by CdaleTony; 01-26-2010 at 08:50 PM.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  3. #3
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    Lefty DLR2 Telescope Split & Re-assemble

    Advanced skills. Do not try if you have any doubts about your skill level.

    Captain Pabst's DLR2 telescope split & re-assemble
    Last edited by CdaleTony; 01-26-2010 at 08:51 PM.

  4. #4
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    Can we have some headshok stuff as well?

  5. #5
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    Last edited by CdaleTony; 01-26-2010 at 08:53 PM.
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  6. #6
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    Lefty swap in Perth Australia

    I have a F900 with the original lefty (2000). Love it and will not get rid of it. My Lefty is getting very tired and to service it in Perth, it has to be removed from the bike and shipped to Sydney (min $300 for a service). I have done it twice already.
    I would like to replace the old lefty with Lefty Max Fork TPC or Lefty Jake Fork TPC.

    I can't get any help from the local shops with informationon whether the forks can be swapped straight across or which new fork is compatible with my old machine.

    Purchasing a new Cannondale in Perth is crazy. I can get on a flight to LA return, buy the same bike for less thn the bikes here.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Cheer

  7. #7
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    Hi Chaps, I have a Rush 2 Carbon 2007 with a 110 DLR shock. The shock has always been really bad on small bumps, bridalways a couple of days after a wet patch is like handling a jackhammer. Whilst my hardtail's R-Seven's just soak things up. Is there a way to set the spring softer on the 110 or do I have to have another spring installed? No idea what spring I have. Had the top cap off to see if resetting the the shock would help and that did not expose the spring unfortunately... Any help appreciated!

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    Bump
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  9. #9
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    error
    excuse me
    "Walk softly and carry an armored tank division, I always say..."
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  10. #10
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    Hi,
    sorry, but I am looking for the pure technical diagrams and "pseudo" CAD drawings of the Leftys (in particular the 110mm XC models for 26er and the ones for 29er).
    In particular I am very much interested in height from axle below head set, above, diameter of the forks, etc. for a custom drawing/ custom build.
    Anyone aware where PDFs like that would be available?
    Thanks!!!

  11. #11
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    I'm wondering if bearing migration is still an issue with the latest lefties? i'm thinking of building a hardtail(flash) with the new lefty. had a prophet with lefty max and sold it.
    thanks

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by blair
    I'm wondering if bearing migration is still an issue with the latest lefties? i'm thinking of building a hardtail(flash) with the new lefty. had a prophet with lefty max and sold it.
    thanks
    It'll never not be an "issue", it's part and parcel with the design. The Max, and all the DLR2's feature super easy rider doable resets. Earlier forks weren't so simple.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    Thank's Craig. Always been very helpful. I'm saving for the planned build.

  14. #14
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    How do you set the sag on a lefty? I know with a conventional fork, I use a zip tie and can measure it that way, but with a lefty you can't do it. Any info would be helpful.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkeo770
    How do you set the sag on a lefty? I know with a conventional fork, I use a zip tie and can measure it that way, but with a lefty you can't do it. Any info would be helpful.
    I put the bike straight against a wall, mark the wall with a pencil, at the top of the grip, unloaded, then with me on the bike...

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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    I put the bike straight against a wall, mark the wall with a pencil, at the top of the grip, unloaded, then with me on the bike...
    Thanks Dan! Why didn't I think of that. I'll give it a try.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkeo770
    Thanks Dan! Why didn't I think of that. I'll give it a try.
    You can put a strip of masking tape on the wall before if you don't want to put marks on the wall. Depends if you do it in the garage, basement or in the living room.

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  18. #18
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    Looking to change my brakes on my 08 Caffeine 29er 2. Want to go with the Avid BB7 mechanical disk brakes. Will I have any issues with the install? Is it a direct replacement or do I need to buy a special mounting bracket? Any info would be great. Thanks.

  19. #19
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    Thanks.
    Last edited by jkeo770; 08-04-2010 at 11:30 AM.

  20. #20
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    I rebuilt my dampening cartridge for my Lefty 29'er Carbon w/DLR yesterday. The lockout stopped working and the dampening felt wrong. Turns out a plastic oil cap came loose).

    The instructions are the same as the 2006 DLR rebuild (http://www.scribd.com/doc/14893815/I...LR2-EXCELLENT), except I was able to do without removing the fork by removing the wheel, loosened the stem bolts to move the bar out of the way, and took off the brake so I would not contaminate the pads.

    The plastic cap in step 20 had come loose. I refilled with 5wt oil (I bought some from a motorcycle shop) and tighten the washer.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by jkeo770
    Looking to change my brakes on my 08 Caffeine 29er 2. Want to go with the Avid BB7 mechanical disk brakes. Will I have any issues with the install? Is it a direct replacement or do I need to buy a special mounting bracket? Any info would be great. Thanks.
    No problem with any disc brake unless you plan on slapping on a 300mm rotor.

    Last edited by sanjuro; 08-01-2010 at 12:21 PM.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanjuro
    No problem with any disc brake unless you plan on slapping on a 300mm rotor.

    LOL, Nice! Thanks for visuals bro.

  23. #23
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    I want to change my leftys boots for this one with chamber ,anyone can tell mewhich is the right measure o air chamber to do this kind of boot ?its an mtb or road chamber ?measure ?1.8,1.9 etc ...


  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanjuro
    I rebuilt my dampening cartridge for my Lefty 29'er Carbon w/DLR yesterday. The lockout stopped working and the dampening felt wrong. Turns out a plastic oil cap came loose).

    The instructions are the same as the 2006 DLR rebuild (http://www.scribd.com/doc/14893815/I...LR2-EXCELLENT), except I was able to do without removing the fork by removing the wheel, loosened the stem bolts to move the bar out of the way, and took off the brake so I would not contaminate the pads.

    The plastic cap in step 20 had come loose. I refilled with 5wt oil (I bought some from a motorcycle shop) and tighten the washer.
    I found this exact same issue and I'm trying to remedy it. How much oil is required in the damper? Is it 5wt shock oil? I sent you a P.M. in regards to this with further questions as I can't get your link to work.

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by DekerfTeamST
    I found this exact same issue and I'm trying to remedy it. How much oil is required in the damper? Is it 5wt shock oil? I sent you a P.M. in regards to this with further questions as I can't get your link to work.
    I sent you a PM.

    BTW, I bought some 5wt Repsol fork oil at a motorcycle store closeout. I had no idea I would actually use it someday!

  26. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by sanjuro
    I sent you a PM.

    BTW, I bought some 5wt Repsol fork oil at a motorcycle store closeout. I had no idea I would actually use it someday!
    Got your PM and your e-mail. Thanks for the assistance. Worked on it tonight. Used 2.5 wt oil though as I heard that was an option as well. I hope it's ok as that's all we had. That or 7 wt. Lock out seems to be working again. Haven't been able to test ride though. We greased the o-rings of the damper with a very light Answer products grease. I know we didn't do things exactly by the book but it got me up and running for now.

  27. #27
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    To answer Mandel Wine. The lefty jake is a direct replacement. I have the same bike and did the same thing.

  28. #28
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    MBAction just released the web file for the <a href="http://mbaction.com/ME2/dirmod.asp?sid=&nm=&type=news&mod=News&mid=9A02E3B 96F2A415ABC72CB5F516B4C10&tier=3&nid=2D40B23921644 016AF662DBB8DE4A69C"><font color=blue><b>lefty service</font></a>.

  29. #29
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    LEFTY MAX 140 TRAVEL MANAGEMENT service

    interesting file where you can see a LEFTY MAX 140 TRAVEL MANAGEMENT service, not sure if there are lefty's w/TM but its also SVP so interesting with good pics!

    http://maximatgmh.free.fr/Instructio...efty%20MAX.pdf

  30. #30
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    LEFTY MAX PBR Oil Leak.

    Hi,

    I've have my 2010 RZ140 since May and it's just gone back to the shop for a second time to have the LEFTY MAX looked at. I get oil leaking from the bottom of the boot and the lock-out stops working. The first time it got sent to the UK distributor who took it apart and rebuilt it with a comment on the trouble-ticket that the lock-out "still bled a little" - To me that sounded as they hadn't fixed anything and sure enough after one ride it has leaked again. I'm not doing anything extreme on it (Surrey Hills (UK) single track) and I still use my trusty F-1000sl with the ELO Lefty (had from new) which performs faultlessly (10+ years old!) so a bit disappointed by the new fork. The bike as a whole is awesome, just want the fork up to spec!

    Just wondering if this is a known issue with the MAX or have I just got a "bad" one?

    Cheers.

    Stu.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by photostu
    comment on the trouble-ticket that the lock-out "still bled a little"
    The 140 cartridges feature a "platformesque" blow through during lockout. All the other forks over the years, haven't. Personally, I think it's a great idea, as extended riding on a locked out fork, causes the lock out shims to crack over time. with some blow through, no longer a problem.

    My guess would be that the tech who noted that, didn't realize this. Otherwise, I have no idea what they meant by the comment.

    If it's still leaking out of the cartridge, and thus, down and out of the lower end of the fork, it means one of two things. One, the cartridge is damaged in some way, and is leaking. Two, the tech that did it, didn't do it correctly, and left something out, like a seal, or didn't tighten things enough to keep them in place.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    Hi, thanks for your reply.

    Yes, the blow-through is a great feature. My old ELO Lefty is rock solid and at times I've often thought that a blow-through would be a good idea as most of my cycling buddys have "ordinary" forks with this.

    I just hope they get to the bottom of it this time. As I said before the RX140 is a pretty sweet ride I just wish the fork would keep the oil inside...

    Thanks again.

    Stu.

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    Weight of lefty max 140 TPC

    I just bought one of these. I'm waiting for it to arrive, my understanding is that these are pretty heavy (over four lbs) for the alloy version.

    TIA

    Noah

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    Misplaced posting

    ...
    Last edited by henrikst; 09-23-2010 at 12:43 AM. Reason: wrong location

  35. #35
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    Any idea of the Lefty fork offset for Flash 29?

    Looking at the 2011 Flash 29er 1. The C'dale geo is does not come up. I have been able to find just about all the specs, but the Lefty travel on that particular model (I found 90mm for the Flash 29 Carbon, so am guessing it is the same). Also no fork offset to speak of.

    Does anyone know both the fork travel and offset on that model?

    Thx.
    Grammar and spelling errors are complementary.

  36. #36
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    Hi!

    I need to change the boot on a Lefty Speed 110, does anyone have a DIY guide? Or some instructions of how I split the fork? Thanks!

    /Fredde

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by fredde_nu
    Hi!

    I need to change the boot on a Lefty Speed 110, does anyone have a DIY guide? Or some instructions of how I split the fork? Thanks!

    /Fredde
    Don't pull it apart....

    Wrap the axle well with duct tape, covering the sharp disc tabs well. Might even put some foam over them prior to the tape. Wrap it down tight.

    Grease the crap out of the tape, and carefully slide the boot over. It stretches nicely, so with slow steady work, it should go without issue.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Don't pull it apart....

    Wrap the axle well with duct tape, covering the sharp disc tabs well. Might even put some foam over them prior to the tape. Wrap it down tight.

    Grease the crap out of the tape, and carefully slide the boot over. It stretches nicely, so with slow steady work, it should go without issue.
    Ohh thanks! I tried that in my first attempt but broke the new boot. Didnt duct the tabs so I will duct my best and give it a new try! Thanks!

    /Fredde

  39. #39
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    I would like to see a DIY for the original DLR 100mm leftys... the ones that really need a rebuild. and that dang castle tool, there is no way around that!

  40. #40
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    lefty rebound/sag issues????

    Wondering if anyone could be of assistance.

    I have a 2005 Prophet with Lefty Max 140mm shock. I had the Brown spring installed(replaced the red for my weight--210/215 with gear most of the time).

    Lately I have been riding trails with lots of roots and rocks...when I hit them I hear a loud metallic ping..... It sounds like the shock is rebounding really fast and making the sound. I have played with the rebound knob on top, but to no avail.

    Any thoughts on what could the the issue and/or how to fix it?
    Would shock need to be serviced or is it probably a quick fix.

    ....I don't really know how to set the sag on this spring shock....like you can do with air shocks......

  41. #41
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    2010 MAX 140 Convert to 29er?

    What parts do I need to convert a 2010 MAX 140 for a 29er wheel and how?

  42. #42
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    Hello,

    I need help with my 2007 Lefty MAX 140. It's off of a Prophet 5. I recently bought the bike used and there's a part on the top of the Lefty that's missing. I need help finding out what's missing, if it can be repaired and a possible estimate. Please check the photos I've posted. The bike and fork seems to ride fine. I just hate it not being 100%.

    I tried searching online for Lefty parts but can't seem to find anything. PLEASE HELP! Thank you.




  43. #43
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    Rebound knob.

    is missing. You can find some tech info here:

    http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng...plement_en.pdf

    A local Cannondale shop should be able to offer some advice.
    '16 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2
    '15 Niner SIR 9 SS
    '14 Cannondale F29 Carbon 3

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdinsj
    is missing. You can find some tech info here:

    http://www.cannondale.com/usa/usaeng...plement_en.pdf

    A local Cannondale shop should be able to offer some advice.
    Thank you for your response and that PDF! I tried looking for that PDF and couldn't find it, so thanks!

    Do you think that white plastic is the bottom of a broken off rebound knob? From the PDF diagram, that white plastic part doesn't have numbered part label. I'm guessing it's part of #1 on the diagram (Rebound Knob)?

    Thanks! I'm starting to feel better about the situation.


  45. #45
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    Yes, that white plastic is the bottom of the rebound knob. The rebound shaft seats into the bottom of the plastic and the ball bearings and spring which click when rotating the rebound knob. See pg. 19, upper left-hand corner has an illustration of the knob.
    '16 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2
    '15 Niner SIR 9 SS
    '14 Cannondale F29 Carbon 3

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdinsj
    Yes, that white plastic is the bottom of the rebound knob. The rebound shaft seats into the bottom of the plastic and the ball bearings and spring which click when rotating the rebound knob. See pg. 19, upper left-hand corner has an illustration of the knob.
    You're awesome! Thank you so much!

    You think I can find this part online so I can replace it myself? I tried searching with no luck. Will I have to contact Cannondale directly? Thanks.

  47. #47
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    Contact your Cannondale LBS. Parts are getting scarce for the early model Lefty Max 140. I have an '05 FFD from my Prophet. I wanted to upgrade with a TPC damper, but were all sold out. Ended up buying an '07 140 with the TPC and the '05 is now just for backup and maybe parts. Check with MendonCycleSmith to see if he has what your looking for.
    '16 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2
    '15 Niner SIR 9 SS
    '14 Cannondale F29 Carbon 3

  48. #48
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    Cool. Thanks.

  49. #49
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    UPDATE:

    I found the part! Just for future reference for others out there, the part number is #KF233. My LBS called Cannondale and said it's in stock and the MSRP is $30 USD. I ordered one and hopefully it'll be here next Friday.

    Thanks again jdinsj!

  50. #50
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    Bottom up?

    I just bought a Flash Carbon 3, and I love it, put I can clearly feel the fork stopping in the top when it rebounds. Like bottoming out, but the other way around. I don't know what the real term is.

    Is there something wrong with the fork? Is it not adjusted properly? I tried to adjust the rebound, but it just becomes too plush.

    I have not owned an XC bike before, so don't know how these light weight fork work. I don't feel it while riding, but if I lift the front wheel or pop a wheelie, I can feel it.

    Any help is much appreciated. Thanks.

  51. #51
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    I have a Lefty ELO and would like to change the oil myself to improve / customize dampening. I keep my bearing races clean and greased and it holds air fine but I just can't find a guide for changing the oil. Any sort of rebuild/maintenance information for this shok would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks,

    JT

  52. #52
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    Max 140 29er "DIVE"

    I had my lbs convert my 2010 max 140 pbr to 29er for me. I have a hand full of rides on it and it just seems to dive to quickly. It seems to be to active. They said they put something in the air chamber, but I'm not sure. I weigh 210lbs riding with gear. Should I be doing something different? A bigger spacer in the air chamber or heavier oil? I wish it felt like my max 130 w/ Heavy spring.

    HELP!!!

  53. #53
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    I have noticed a bit of this with my PBR

    I converted my PBR myself. I added what I calculated to be the correct amount of elastomer material to the air chamber. The lefty still seems a little too plush. I think the sag is roughly correct. I am going to try to use a little more pressure. I only weigh 180 without gear.

    Perhaps the air pressures in the manual don't really work. I need to think about this for a bit. I wonder if Craig will chime in.

  54. #54
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    Can someone help with this query please?

    I am fitting a Lefty Spped Fox RLC 110 on my 2005 model Scalpel that had a DLR (as in here). This DLR has a Aluminium spacer ring below the lower headset bearing on the steerer tube.

    Must I use this when fitting the Speed Fox RLC? Can't see any reference to it....

    Thanks in advance.

  55. #55
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    Spy infiltration here

    I've never ridden a Lefty, just gonna say it now; never seen one around here, nor are my LBSs C-dale dealers. But I do have legitimate questions about the Lefty:
    Does it ride the same as a conventional fork?
    And, WHY??
    Sometimes, I question the value of my content.

  56. #56
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    Take the Lefty MAX 130 apart

    Hi everyone!

    Im upgrading my airpiston on my MAX 130 and saw when looking down the inside of the fork that one of the races to the needlebearing was 1 cm above the others so I tried to split the innertube from the outer to fix this - with no success.

    I removed the snapring under the rubber booth, and tried to pull it apart, didnt work!

    How do I do it?

    Thanks!

    Fredde

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    Quote Originally Posted by fredde_nu
    Hi everyone!

    Im upgrading my airpiston on my MAX 130 and saw when looking down the inside of the fork that one of the races to the needlebearing was 1 cm above the others so I tried to split the innertube from the outer to fix this - with no success.

    I removed the snapring under the rubber booth, and tried to pull it apart, didnt work!

    How do I do it?

    Thanks!

    Fredde
    Remove the lockclip, the bussing and the needle-race holder by pushing all the races into the middle.

    /Fredde

  58. #58
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    I have a carbon Lefty SL 110 (2008) which I have bought used, and no idea when the last service was, if any at all. Dont know if it matters to my question, but now you know.

    I did a bearing reset according to your reset guide (very nice, thanks ).
    And now a few weeks later, the lockout has a kind of sag, before it really locks completely. It is about 10-15 mm before it locks.

    I have an alu lefty which is newly serviced, and feels really nice compared to my carbon lefty. And it locks immediatly, without the sag.
    Im afraid I have dont something wrong perhaps, while resetting til bearings.

    I went to my LBS and he said with just testing the fork, that I properly needed a new cartridge. But I would really like to save the 300 dollars it would cost me.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks

  59. #59
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    Hello, I have what I think is a Lefty 110 DLR2 from 2009. it has no coil so I assume it's a solo air. Thing is, it only compresses 90 mm. Could it be a Lefty with just this much travel? If so, can it be extended to 110 mm? i've dissasembled it and there are no C spacers. Could bearing migration decrease so much travel? The cartridge says DLR2/-1-012009

  60. #60
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    Hallo, a couple of questions about the leftys:
    how much is the a/c lenght of:
    - the 2011 Lefty PBR 120
    - the 2011 Lefty Max 140mm
    - the old Lefty Max SPV 140mm

    How the SPV rides compared to the PBR solo air and what about its 29er conversion?
    Thanks

  61. #61
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    a question :

    with bearing migrated a Lefty is shorter than normal

    but the travel is shorter too ?

  62. #62
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap
    a question :

    with bearing migrated a Lefty is shorter than normal

    but the travel is shorter too ?
    Eli, yes travel is shortened the same amount.

  63. #63
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    2002 Lefty DLR Rebuild information wanted

    I just picked up a 2002 Jekyll 1000 with a Lefty TI. After reviewing this forum and looking at the Cannondale site. I believe this Lefty is the 2.0 DLR with 100mm travel.
    Can someone correct me if I'm mistaken please.
    I am looking for service docs for this older lefty fork and am hoping someone can direct me to the right location.

    Thanks in advance,
    Cgilbert
    Last edited by gilbercal; 04-09-2011 at 08:21 PM.

  64. #64
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    Help please! I am in the middle of rebuilding my 2009 Lefty Speed Carbon SL OPI SoloAir (wow, that's a mouthfull!). The damper cap (white plastic cap) came unscrewed somehow, and puked the oil all over the inside of the boot, effectively washing all the lube off the bearings. I caught it quick enough that there is no damage.

    However, I am struggling with putting the upper/lower back together. My inner bearing race setup appears to be very different from the photos shown here. There is a captive washer type arrangement at the top of the inner races, similar to that found at the bottom of the outer races, and this is preventing me from being able to "slide" the bearings/inner leg into the outer.

    There's a lip on the captive washer that will damage or foul the bearing as I try and slide it together. I cannot install that washer after the upper/lower are mated, as it would be much too far down inside the leg cavity for me to reach.

    I can't perform these 3 steps:







    because of this:





    What do I do?

    Thanks.

  65. #65
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    OK, I found out on my own. Brandon at Cannondale talked me through it. I have to put this puppy together without the retainer, and then fish the damned thing into place 6" down inside the outer.

    Wish me luck!

  66. #66
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    '08 DLR2 Lockout Issue / Weeping Oil Question

    Good day all, I had the Scalpel in my grade eight science class to demonstrate hydraulics and pneumatics. Low and behold the lock out lever did not function correctly on my 2008 Lefty DLR2. The fork now moves through 1/2 of its travel and then locks out. Even when locked out there is give to the fork. Previously, the lockout would not allow any travel or movement. I brought the bike home tonight only to find oil weeping out of my top seal cap (Part #1020341) next to the shraeder plug on the lower leg assembly. Will filling the bottom of the air piston with 20 cc's of fork oil fix the problem? Or is the issue the oil in the damper unit? I have full access to all Cannondale specific tooling and I am a competent mechanic. It has been a few years since I last tore down Marzocchi Bombers but with all the tools and repair parts, those forks were stupid easy to service. It'll be the first time on a Lefty. I need your help Obi-Wan, you're my only hope.

  67. #67
    mnt bike laws of physics
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    Jason, your Lefty is 3 years old and is long overdue for a service. The damper has leaked oil which is bound to happen after that much use. Also, the damper oil has leaked into the bearings and has ruined the grease. The fix - send it to Mendoncyclesmith. Craig will set you up quick for a reasonable charge. I promise, you will not regret this action.
    BTW, I taught 8th grade physical science last year. This year, I am in high school

  68. #68
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    I have a Carbon Max with a small split in the boot. I ordered a replacement boot, but i think I bought the wrong one. The item I have is QC678, but I think i should have bought KF222 instead.

    Will the QC678 item work with my fork? If not, what is the difference between the two boots? I am assuming length?

  69. #69
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    damper misalignment

    The issue below has been resolved by 88.

    Hi All,

    I have a brand new 2011 Lefty Max XLR. I wanted to remove the damper to give the damper to tuning at 88.
    In doing so I noticed that the black top cap (at the top of the upper damper shaft where the split rings are installed) is seriously off centered versus the Lefy outer tube. I need to push the black top cap of the damper side ways aprox 4mm to reach the center line of the Lefty outer tube to be able to get the split rings into the fork and close it... That does not see right to me.. By doing so side force will be put on the damper shaft.

    Does anyone know what the reason is for such a misalignemnt and how it could be fixed ?
    Last edited by viktor2; 05-30-2011 at 08:36 AM. Reason: solved

  70. #70
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    The Carbon upper tube on my lefty max has a small chip/scratch on it. When i bought it used, the seller told me he had it checked by a cannondale rep who told him that the damage was not structural and would not affect performance. Is the carbon a structural element of the fork or more of a dressing?

  71. #71
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    Is Cannondale dumping the Lefty?

    I'm in the SF Bay area and I've noticed that the largest dealer has fewer C'dales with the lefty. It also seems like C'dale is only putting it on shorter travel bikes.

    I hope not...

  72. #72
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    2010 Carbon Lefty DLR Lockout

    Hey Mendon. Some one posted this earlier and I didn't see a response.

    " did a bearing reset according to your reset guide (very nice, thanks ).
    And now a few weeks later, the lockout has a kind of sag, before it really locks completely. It is about 10-15 mm before it locks."

    I just did a bearing migration reset with good results, but I'm having the same condition as the above quote.
    The bearing reset was done to correct the lockout sag problem, plus the length of the lefty seemed to be decreased. I don't feel any knocking or sag when the lefty is pushed up and down, It's only when the lockout lever is engaged that the lefty has a sag and slight rebound knock. Your imput is extremely appreciated.

  73. #73
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    Ok, total suspension noob here as ive alwAys had rigids. I have a 2009 speed DLR lefty with 80mm of travel. It has only about 200 miles on it and has only been riden by a lightweight rider. I set the sag at 20 percent and im quite happy with how it performs.
    But, there are a couple problems and im OCD about fixing them but have no clue how to go about it. First of all, when it is locked out it gives about 10mm travel. And it seems to have some forward/backward play in it somewhere but im not sure where. I put grease inside the boot recently, but it still feels very slightly rough. What do i need to do? I dont mind working on it myself at all unless its uber complicated.

    Thanks in advance!

  74. #74
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    PBR max damping cartridge question

    Hi all, I have striped my Lefty in order to replace needle bearings and pitted races. Upon removing the damping cartridge I discovered a trashed O ring trapped under the damping cartridge washer. (See remains in centre of photo). The PBR manual says that the washer should be bonded on with loctite 401 but makes no mention of an O ring in this location. I can only assume an O ring is now used to hold the washer in place and this became trapped and tore when I unscrewed the damping cartridge. I can not see where else the O ring would have come from. Can anyone please confirm my theory?????
    Secondly, the damping cartridge works fine and operates smoothly. While I have it stripped should I open it up and replace the oil or wait until next service? I know cannondale reccomend a full service every 100hrs, but I figure with no leaks and smooth operation maybe I am best to run with it for now. Any thoughts advice much appreciated.
    Oh, Lefty is a 2009 PBR MAX 130mm Alloy.
    Thanks in advance
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-striped-down-2009-130mm-alloy-pbr-max-lefty-1536-x-1152-.jpg  

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-striped-down-2009-130mm-alloy-pbr-max-lefty-1536-x-1152-768-x-576-.jpg  


  75. #75
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    kiwi, yes I am sure your theory is correct. The o-ring would serve no other purpose at all. I think using something like locktite to keep the washer in place would be better. I took my o-ring out and all is well.

    As far as changing out the oil - do you have an oil cap remover?

  76. #76
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    Thanks Yogiprophet, No oil cap remover as yet. They are an expensive tool for a lump of plastic and a few pins. They retail here in NZ for nearly $90 bucks. I may have a go at machining one up at work, yet. I have made my own shaft clamps so should get my act together and do the oil cap wrench next. Then I can finally get some riding done.
    Tell me, is the bleed screw on the oil cylinder used to burp out any air after replacing the damper oil?

  77. #77
    mnt bike laws of physics
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    Quote Originally Posted by kiwi lefty View Post
    Thanks Yogiprophet, No oil cap remover as yet. They are an expensive tool for a lump of plastic and a few pins. They retail here in NZ for nearly $90 bucks. I may have a go at machining one up at work, yet. I have made my own shaft clamps so should get my act together and do the oil cap wrench next. Then I can finally get some riding done.
    Tell me, is the bleed screw on the oil cylinder used to burp out any air after replacing the damper oil?
    The great thing about the Cdale oil cap remover is it made out of nylon so it won't scratch the shaft. Although I have used a green Park pin spanner to remove the cap, you have to make sure you file away as much material from between the pins (sticking out inside the pins) as possible. It is a pain but it works.
    I've never used the bleed screw and I haven't had any problems with air. I just cycled the shaft, filled the oil to the top, and when the air settled I screwed in the cap which pushes the excess oil and any air out of the damper.
    The best description of an oil change I have found is here- http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...86994#poststop
    Enjoy!

  78. #78
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    Lefty wheel hub bearing cap

    Is the lefty hub bearing cap (the one that sits inside of the rotor) necessary? Mine makes an obnoxious wheezing sound after a bit of riding. Can I safely remove it?

    Noah

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by nbwallace View Post
    Is the lefty hub bearing cap (the one that sits inside of the rotor) necessary? Mine makes an obnoxious wheezing sound after a bit of riding. Can I safely remove it?

    Noah
    You do not need it, but it helps keep crap out of the bearing.

  80. #80
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    Phil Wood Tenacious Oil

    Quote Originally Posted by yogiprophet View Post
    The great thing about the Cdale oil cap remover is it made out of nylon so it won't scratch the shaft. Although I have used a green Park pin spanner to remove the cap, you have to make sure you file away as much material from between the pins (sticking out inside the pins) as possible. It is a pain but it works.
    I've never used the bleed screw and I haven't had any problems with air. I just cycled the shaft, filled the oil to the top, and when the air settled I screwed in the cap which pushes the excess oil and any air out of the damper.
    The best description of an oil change I have found is here- http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...86994#poststop
    Enjoy!
    Thanks for your help and link to the oil change post, Yogiprophet. Saved me a bit of time trawling through the posts.

    Can you help me with an alternative oil to Phil Woods. Can not find anyone who stocks it over here. The remaining stuff that was left inside the fork when I removed the schrader plug assembly, seemed to be almost the same consistency of chainsaw bar lube.
    Not sure if there are any nasties in bar oil that would harm the seals or plastic. Would Fox float suspension fluid do the same job?

  81. #81
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    Ultra PBR 120 help!

    Hello,

    After finishing a rough 70k race yesterday I noticed a strange feeling in my Lefty When compressed there was an inch or so or light resistance followed by firmer resistance through the rest of it's travel. I assumed it needed a bearing reset and so performed a quick one. After pressurizing the fork the feeling was still there. I slid the boot down to make sure things were clean and tidy and noticed that the marks left in the grease on one race seemed higher than the other three. I double checked the reset measurement and it is correct. I then cycled the fork a few times with no air pressure and the front inner race is higher by just under a cm than the other three.

    So my questions are:

    1. How do I align this bearing?
    2. Would this be the causing of the soft then firm travel. If it isn't - what are potential causes?

    Thanks
    Last edited by macdeal; 07-05-2011 at 08:42 AM.

  82. #82
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    No Pop-top on 2010 Carbon Ultra 120

    Nothing happens when I press it.The button does not engage and the rebound knob does not pop up. I

    Is this an adjustment or part replacement? Any danger in continuing to ride the bike?

    Thanks in advance for advice.

  83. #83
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    does anybody have a internal manual of the lefty 140pbr??? i would like to open it and make it a manitenance

  84. #84
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    I have a 2003 Lefty (on a F800 from that year) that does not lock out anymore—even after a complete rebuild with all new seals.

    Now the fork appears to be leaking oil out of the air valve at the bottom.

    The LBS that did the rebuild claims that the only real solution is a replacement with a 2012 Lefty Speed 100 PBR, or a whole new bike.

    So, given the state of my fork, what's the worst that could happen? Should I just suck it up, part out the 2003 rig, and just buy a whole new bike with the latest and greatest component set?

  85. #85
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    moved post to own thread
    Last edited by BritOnTour; 07-25-2011 at 01:03 PM. Reason: Moving to own thread

  86. #86
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    Lefty on Trek fuel ex 9.9 2010

    Hello all bit of a strange one here, I have a fuel ex 9.9 2010 frame which I am currently building up. I would like to try and install a 120mm cannondale carbon lefty fork on the 9.9 frame but wanted to enquire about the carbon frame being able to handle the stress although I cannot see the lefty fork asserting any more strain than a conventional fork and the cannondale carbon frames seem to deal fine with lefty forks and trek carbon is meant to be extremely strong.
    Secondly to this the clearance between the crowns on the lefty fork are perfect for a nearly flush fit on the 9.9 headtube with the headset removed but won't fit with the cane creek xx zero stack headset fitted as it pertrudes too much from the headtube, is there anyway that bearings could be placed directly into the headtube or would it be possible to machine my own bearing cups to the same size but without the pertruding parts to create an actually flush integrated headset much like how cannondale do.
    If you could contact me with your thoughts I would be very grateful, I also understand that any advice recieved or used is currently hypothetical and at my own risk and may void any warrenties.
    Many thanks
    Joel

  87. #87
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    Hi Guys

    I have a lefty max alloy and everytime i fill with air at the bottom of shock as soon as i disconnect the shock pump it lets all the air out?

    The bike is almost new never been used for over a year its a Rize 3 really am lost with this its not my pump as its fine on my wifes bike and the rear shock rp2

    Anyone?

  88. #88
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    Just to add everytime i reconnect the shock pump its at 0 psi could it be something simple as valve broke??? As lockout works fine

  89. #89
    mnt bike laws of physics
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    Quote Originally Posted by grchmason View Post
    Hi Guys

    I have a lefty max alloy and everytime i fill with air at the bottom of shock as soon as i disconnect the shock pump it lets all the air out?

    The bike is almost new never been used for over a year its a Rize 3 really am lost with this its not my pump as its fine on my wifes bike and the rear shock rp2

    Anyone?
    Sounds like you need a new valve core. Try that and see how it goes. Some stick out too far and when the pump is released, the air is allowed to escape. When I had this problem, I had a few different types of valve cores (I got from a tire store) and I tried them all until I found one that fit flush or lower than flush (inside).

  90. #90
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    Quote Originally Posted by liscio View Post
    So, given the state of my fork, what's the worst that could happen? Should I just suck it up, part out the 2003 rig, and just buy a whole new bike with the latest and greatest component set?
    To save you all the suspense, I decided to stick with my trusty F800.

    I'd have to spend quite a bit of money just to buy a near-identical bike today (probably the Flash F2), when I'd rather be moving up. Since I don't view today's frames as much of an upgrade (if at all, considering the non-US build), it was a pretty obvious choice.

    I put in the order for a 2012 Lefty Speed PBR alloy (which will undoubtedly shed some weight and gain a lot of performance) with a really good price from the LBS (who basically credited me for the price of the Lefty rebuild earlier this year in addition Cannondale's trade-in discount).

    I also got a screaming deal on a new wheelset (2008 Mavic Crossmax), and have a new crankset on the way (2010 Race Face Deus XC). For kicks I also picked up an XT cassette, and a new chain.

    I'm still under the price of buying a new bike (which wouldn't be nearly as well spec'ed), and I get to keep a beautiful frame out of the landfill. Yay!

  91. #91
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    is there any tool list needed for servicing lefty....

  92. #92
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    Does anyone have a manual or faq about the Lefty DLR 100 (2004 model) handy?
    Trying to find out how many PSI to put in it.

    Thanks,

  93. #93
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    What top seal cap do I need for my SI Integration headset?

    Cannondale SI 1.5-inch Headset on eBay!

    Part # ???

    Where can I buy one online?

  94. #94
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    Upgrading to a new lefty! :)

    Hi people, was wondering, I have a 2006 Rush and was thinking about upgrading to a 2011 lefty speed carbon XLR, would it be easy as just swapping out the lefties or do i require a new stem?

    And after reading the horror story of someone in this forum getting their lefty mangled by their LBS removing it, i was thinking of removing/installing the lefty myslelf instead, is it easy for the lefty to come out/in on my 06 rush?

    thanks in advance!

  96. #96
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    What headset will fit ?

    I currently have a Lefty Speed 110 w/DLR on my On-One Scandal and I have used the steerer tube from Project321 and obviously a normal 1.125" headset.

    I am now considering getting a frame built with a 1.5" headtube instead of the normal 1.125" and I've read up that the standard bearings from a 1.5" headset don't necessarily fit the normal Lefty steerer tube.

    My question is thus, apart from Cannondale, what headset can I get that will fit the Lefty Steerer tube and what stem? Or should I just use a 1.125" headtube to alleviate problems?

  97. #97
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    Installing an HD208?

    Hello, everyone.

    I'm looking for some instructions for installing the Outer Race Clip (HD208) in a Lefty DLR. I have looked around for some information but can't find anything other than 'install the clip' which sounds simple enough but the clip is larger than the inside diameter of the fork.

    Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

  98. #98
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    Basic lefty wheel question

    sorry, tryingh to delete this one.
    Last edited by 58teeth; 08-18-2011 at 06:44 AM. Reason: replied incorrectly!

  99. #99
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    Basic lefty wheel installation q

    Hi there-

    quick question about front wheel installation for the lefty. When installing, should the fixing bolt stop, or, will it keep spinning, but with resistance? Often times I notice the fixing bolt is a teeny bit loose when removing the wheel to put it back on the rack, so, I'm concerned if I'm cross threading or not putting the wheel on correctly.

    Thanks!

  100. #100
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    Yes, the bolt should come to a complete stop, ideally at the recommended torque setting. It should not continue spinning at all. Either the hub isn't fully engaged on the spindle, or you have indeed cross threaded the hub and will need a new one. How does the visible thread look? do you see any metal shavings come out of the hub if you give it a knock?

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