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  1. #801
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    An update on 2Spring: Erick at Atlanta Cycles in Ansley did the job gratis in a half-hour. He had the part shipped from another location because Cannondale is backordered for another 6 weeks. Super nice guy. Definitely recommend a visit if you're in the area.

  2. #802
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    Glad to help, I love an easy solution!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  3. #803
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    My locker cap/ whatever is holding down the guts is tight, there is gap showing threads

    this is a older lefty max with pbr damper conversion

    is this normal?

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20170302_193414.jpg
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  4. #804
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    That's the newer style collar. They are a shade less deep than the previous generation.

    As long as your split rings are fully seated down into the upper tube when screwing that back on, you're fine.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  5. #805
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    That's the newer style collar. They are a shade less deep than the previous generation.

    As long as your split rings are fully seated down into the upper tube when screwing that back on, you're fine.
    thanks craig. the split rings are seated properly . ill email you once i has all the parts for the build . now im deciding on a rear hub. i might just go with hope
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  6. #806
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    Last week (literally the ride after the 2Spring replacement), I came into a turn at about 15 MPH and hit a rut at a bad angle. The front wheel (ENVE, 32H) caught and broke in half from the lateral force. When I got home, I discovered the Lefty was stuck at about half-travel.

    I did a bearing reset and it seems to be normal again, except that there's a lot of stiction and some quiet clicking sounds in the first half-inch of travel. If the Lefty is moving in the travel, there's no stiction. If it stops at mid-travel, there's a bit.

    There was definitely less stiction before this incident. Have I damaged something?

  7. #807
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    Expensive day out

    I'd get Lefty looked at by someone who knows what they are doing.

  8. #808
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    Agreed. It may be okay, I've see Leftys take some serious abuse, but yeah, the clicking and sticking that wasn't present just prior, sounds, well, potentially expensive...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  9. #809
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    ENVE's replacing the front wheel, so I'm just out time on that one. Sounds like I'll have to front-load that 100HR service. Clicking probably wasn't the right description, it's more of a suspension oil smacking sound. I'll see if it feels weird on the trail soon, checkbook in hand..

  10. #810
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    Can a 2015 PBR 29er 100mm Lefty (2.0) be converted to 27.5+ 120mm travel? I've used it as-is with a 27.5+ tire now, but need more travel (and A-C length) for a new frame it is going on.
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  11. #811
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    Quote Originally Posted by deuxdiesel View Post
    Can a 2015 PBR 29er 100mm Lefty (2.0) be converted to 27.5+ 120mm travel? I've used it as-is with a 27.5+ tire now, but need more travel (and A-C length) for a new frame it is going on.
    The one thing I truly have never asked anyone at Cannondale is if the uppers & lowers are the same chassis for all of the PBR/XLR range - say does a 120mm 29er model use the same chassis as the 100mm 27.5'er, with different internals setting the overall length/AtoC for that application. I'm leaning toward the answer being yes.

    Looking at the tech book's parts lists for both configurations -I'm really only seeing different part numbers in the oil damper - you should have KH150 (pink) in your 100mm 29er, and need the orange KH187 model for the longer travel. Combine that with a different upper air seal - the parts lists state the 120 uses a 55mm tall air seal (CK3467U0055), and the 100 has a 30mm. Other than that, the big volume reducer in the 100 should be 135mm long, and the 120 shows a 50mm one used (CK3477U0050), with some slightly different assortment of the fine tuning volume reducers below it.

    Depending on your shop - the oil damper is the big ticket item - I see it online for $250, but most dealers could probably beat or match that.

    But all of that is moot if the upper/lower combo isn't the same (which I really just don't see happening), but hey, I've been wrong before.

  12. #812
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    I'll also add that the Orange damper is the 130mm unit found in the Habit, Bad Habit, BoTE, and Habit SE. In the 120mm bikes, it uses a slightly different size upper air seal and in a case or 2, a travel reducer spacer to limit travel to 120. So you could go to 130mm travel, but I can't say if that's appropriate for the plus-sized setup you're going to run.

  13. #813
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    I have a 2016 FS-i with carbon XLR. When the Lefty is locked out and I do a hard pedal-stroke that unweights the front end, I can hear/feel a clunk. The sensation I get is like the Lefty is extending and hitting a stopper. However as the front is weighted again it doesn't make a noticeable clunk like I would expect if a small amount of movement had happened with unweighting.
    Anyone else run across this?
    I have about 10 miles on the bike after picking it up from the bike shop. Should I just try a bearing reset?

  14. #814
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    Quote Originally Posted by ToastR View Post
    When the Lefty is locked out and I do a hard pedal-stroke that unweights the front end, I can hear/feel a clunk. Should I just try a bearing reset?
    I have the same problem. A bearing reset didn't fix the problem for me.

  15. #815
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Phooey! I better get it back to the shop I bought it from before riding season gets any closer... I knew this new Lefty wasn't very accessible to a DIY'r but was hoping for more than an hr in the saddle before having to service.

  16. #816
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    Both of my Leftys make this ''clunk'' when they are locked out. I have had issues with my newer Lefty but the old one has a few thousand miles and no problems, even with the clunk.
    Bike fleet: Scalpel/Habit SE/Synapse Hi Mod/SWorks Tarmac/TJ CX/Trek Speed Concept 9 series/Ridley Noah

  17. #817
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    All of you have the 2-Spring Update?
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  18. #818
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    All of you have the 2-Spring Update?
    Mine has the 2-spring upgrade installed from the factory.

  19. #819
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridenfish39 View Post
    Both of my Leftys make this ''clunk''...
    Thanks for the info! I guess I could live with it - if I knew it wasn't hurting anything - but I would still be curious as to why.
    Hopefully MCS can provide his thought also...

  20. #820
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    Cannondale has intentionally locked out outside service centers such as myself. All the better for their bottom line I suppose, can't have other places understanding how your stuff works.....

    I doubt it's anything to concern yourself with, but if it bugs you, sell that thing and buy a booted fork, far more durable and inexpensively serviceable.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  21. #821
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    As always, thanks very much for your input MCS! Understood.

  22. #822
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    Is there any 200mm direct brake adapter for lefty 2.0 ?

  23. #823
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreicha View Post
    Is there any 200mm direct brake adapter for lefty 2.0 ?
    Nothing listed bigger than 180mm.

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-2017-03-17.png

  24. #824
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    2002 ELO Manual

    Anyone have the manual for the 2002 Lefty ELO? Specifically I'm probably looking for the owners manual so I can determine what air pressure to set.


    I'd love a service manual as well if one exists, but not as important right now.

    Thanks

  25. #825
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    "Air preload adjustment requires a precision suspension air pump with gauge that is capable of delivering at least 150 psi through a Schrader valve. A check valve, quick-disconnect,or valve extension may also be helpful in preventing air loss from the valve as the pump is removed. The maximum preload pressure for the air cartridge is 225 psi.

    1. With the rider off of the bike, measure from the floor to the center of one end of the handlebar with the bicycle standing perfectly upright.Then position the rider on the bike in a seated,natural riding position with both feet on the pedals and weight on the seat. It may be easiest for the rider to lean against a wall or post.With only the rear brake applied and the fork unlocked, again measure the distance from the floor to the center of the end of the handlebar.

    2. The difference in these two measurements is the preload sag. Most riders find the best Lefty suspension performance with 1/2 - 5/8Ē(12.5-16mm) sag. A good starting point is to fill the air spring to 75% of the riderís bodyweight. Add or remove air from the fork through the Schrader valve located at the bottom of the Lefty leg until the desired sag measurement and fork feel are achieved. Note this air pressure setting for future reference."


    https://www.eighty-aid.com/sites/default/files/2002_lefty_elo_owners_manual_supplement_en.pdf

  26. #826
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    Yes thank you, I found this but it doesn't really say what the psi should be - what the range is for the lefty...it says what the pump should be capable of delivering but doesn't say what psi to start with and what the min/max the lefty should take.

    It's possible that a rider can sit on the bike and not fulfill the sag requirements, if you assume the min psi is 150 - but I don't think that is what this is saying.

  27. #827
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    ...but doesn't say what psi to start with:

    "A good starting point is to fill the air spring to 75% of the riderís bodyweight."

    For example, for a 200 lb rider (as ready to ride), 200 X .75 = 150 lbs starting pressure

    ... min/max the lefty should take:

    "The maximum preload pressure for the air cartridge is 225 psi."

    I do not know if there is a minimum, but my for my wife's early model DLR (basically the same fork as your ELO), at her weight of 120 lbs ready to ride, a 100-105 lbs pressure feels about right.

  28. #828
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    Doh I read that like 3 times yesterday and today...

    Thanks!

  29. #829
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    How to remove

    Ok new question...I've looked on youtube for videos and all I see are people uncrewing under the headtube and then using various hammering techniques to get the lefty off...they look like newer leftys

    Mine is older - early 2000's...there's nothing to unscrew under the head tube...so before I start into this I wanted some pointers as to how to go about doing this.

    It looks as though I just need to undo the upper clamp above the headtube (first remove the stem) and it should just drop out of the frame. Is this correct?

    Attachment 1130488Attachment 1130489

  30. #830
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsmith View Post
    It looks as though I just need to undo the upper clamp above the headtube (first remove the stem) and it should just drop out of the frame. Is this correct?

    Attachment 1130488Attachment 1130489
    These gen 1 versions are the same as Headshok and the 'new' supermax steerer. I think.

    Take the stem off. Remove the clamp bolts at the top and the bottom of the steerer. Then hammer the steerer out of the bottom of the headtube.It's a press fit in to the headset bearings, so no, it won't just drop out.

    Might want to wait for someone to corroborate before trying

  31. #831
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    Not done it yet myself so I can only go on what I've seen and my own understanding but here's the guide:
    https://www.cyclinic.com.au/wp-conte...16-Removal.jpg

    Steerer is bulged above and below the bearings so needs hammering through the bearings to remove. (KT020 tool officially needed, planning to turn one up myself on the lathe as no luck finding one in the UK at a sane price)
    http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTYwMFgxMj...ZWfERY/$_1.JPG

    That being said, with un-bonded crowns, I don't know for certain how you get the bearing preload right on re-assembly (I suspect it is set by the flares on the steerer.

    Essentially I believe it to be;
    - Undo/remove upper crown (if possible)
    - Knock steerer down through upper bearing so you're left with the lower bearing on the steerer and the upper one in the frame cup.

    If anyone can comment on re-install then you'd be helping two of us

  32. #832
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    Assuming your fork has a collar on top, with small holes in it?

    Green Park pin spanner.

    After loosening the top clamp around the fork and removing the rebound and lockout knobs, use the tool to unscrew the collar. Loosen lower clamp, and slide the fork out.

    Since you're asking about service? Just know you need several now hard to find tools. Doing it without them, you, perhaps believing that you're the best air craft mechanic in the world, doesn't make this a simple job, nor are damper and air parts available when you f*#k something up.

    Primum non nocere

    I'd suggest letting someone who knows what they are doing and has the tools, do it. There's several around the country, not too hard to find.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  33. #833
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    You also have the option of removing the fork leg and leaving the steerer and clamp in place.

  34. #834
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Assuming your fork has a collar on top, with small holes in it?

    Green Park pin spanner.

    After loosening the top clamp around the fork and removing the rebound and lockout knobs, use the tool to unscrew the collar. Loosen lower clamp, and slide the fork out.

    Since you're asking about service? Just know you need several now hard to find tools. Doing it without them, you, perhaps believing that you're the best air craft mechanic in the world, doesn't make this a simple job, nor are damper and air parts available when you f*#k something up.

    Primum non nocere

    I'd suggest letting someone who knows what they are doing and has the tools, do it. There's several around the country, not too hard to find.
    I'm actually inquiring how to get it off to ship it to you- I'm the one that emailed you about the ELO the other day - this is it. Sidebar, it sounds like the ELO is still working as the light comes on and if I hold my ear to it I can hear the motor...it just doesn't lock out. I'm assuming/hoping its a loss of oil that's the issue.

  35. #835
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    You also have the option of removing the fork leg and leaving the steerer and clamp in place.
    Sorry, had assumed you 'needed' to access the headset.
    If the ELO leg will slide through the crowns then yes, just remove the leg and leave all the steerer and bearings in place.

  36. #836
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    Slipped by Mr. Smith

  37. #837
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rixington43 View Post
    Sorry, had assumed you 'needed' to access the headset.
    If the ELO leg will slide through the crowns then yes, just remove the leg and leave all the steerer and bearings in place.
    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    Slipped by Mr. Smith
    Yeah sorry I wasn't clear that I don't need to get to the headset - just all the images I see of the lefty by themselves have the steerer and crowns attached so I was thinking I needed to. just slipping it out will be much easier!! Thanks

  38. #838
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    The ELO Lefty on my city pot-hole jumper appears to be just a original model DLR with a (dead) ELO cartridge.

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-crazy-eight-front.jpg

  39. #839
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsmith View Post
    Yeah sorry I wasn't clear that I don't need to get to the headset - just all the images I see of the lefty by themselves have the steerer and crowns attached so I was thinking I needed to. just slipping it out will be much easier!! Thanks
    Cheaper to post too

  40. #840
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    The ELO Lefty on my city pot-hole jumper appears to be just a original model DLR with a (dead) ELO cartridge.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    as far as I could tell in my research - they are the same, just without the elo. I'm gonna have mendon take a look at it and see how it is - I'm dusting it off also for a city rider...and maybe some light trails with the little ones.

  41. #841
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    Craig will do right by you - he has re-built around a dozen forks and cartridges for me, and every one has come back functioning "like new".

  42. #842
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    Craig will do right by you - he has re-built around a dozen forks and cartridges for me, and every one has come back functioning "like new".
    That's what I hear - hes the best, maybe second to the engineers behind the lefty.

    Side note - what tires are you running on your "pot-hole jumper"

  43. #843
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsmith View Post
    sounds like the ELO is still working as the light comes on and if I hold my ear to it I can hear the motor...it just doesn't lock out. I'm assuming/hoping its a loss of oil that's the issue.
    Got it....

    The whir is often heard, means nothing, end of the day, necessarily, so cross your fingers.

    Motor still drives, even after the worm drive connection has stripped itself into oblivion....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  44. #844
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsmith View Post
    Side note - what tires are you running on your "pot-hole jumper"
    Sorry, no longer have them, and don't remember.

  45. #845
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    Tried searching through the thread, apologies if this is a duplicate.

    I have a 2015 Trigger with the 140mm Supermax with the 2spring update. I'm bringing it in to the shop shortly, but they don't have the best track record at actually fixing things. I'm hoping I can get a diagnosis and specifically point them at the right place to look.

    1. Limited travel. Getting about 90mm out of the 140. Then, went I went to let the air out and try the manual reset...
    2. As soon as I emptied the pressure, the fork sucked itself back up. I can pull it out by hand about 50mm, and pumping it up does extend it.

    Thanks!

  46. #846
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    Ok, I'm mounting a new set of brakes on my lefty Headshok today and how do you attach the hose to the lefty? Can I just tie strap it or do I need a special mount? The current one has a unique tie strap on it, do I need to replace that with the same?

  47. #847
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mdp3612 View Post
    Ok, I'm mounting a new set of brakes on my lefty Headshok today and how do you attach the hose to the lefty? Can I just tie strap it or do I need a special mount? The current one has a unique tie strap on it, do I need to replace that with the same?
    The exact part #'s might vary based on which Lefty you have - let us know and we can point you in the correct direction.

    But - most Lefty forks have a set of special retaining clamps that are reusable, and retain the hose, while allowing it to move up and down as the fork telescopes.

    This general kit is what fits most of the Lefty forks:
    Cannondale Lefty Band Clamp Kit - KH214

  48. #848
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    ...

  49. #849
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    Just wanted to post here again how great Mendon Cyclesmith's work is. Fast, reasonable pricing (might be the best), open communication. Craig had my old ELO serviced and back to me in a week...permanently disabling the lockout saving me some weight (no battery) and put some heavier weight oil in it for me while servicing the boot, o-rings, filter!!

    Absolutely no complaints!!!!

  50. #850
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    Ummm what's this o-ring?

    Working on a DLR2 that was converted to a PBR damper lat year. First time doing a bearing reset since then. Yeah I know I'm behind, but I don't put a lot of miles on it. Anyway, I take the top cap off and there's an o-ring just under the cap. I know about that one. Then, when I push the telescope up to get the split rings out to see another O-ring kinda floating around in there. Where did this come from? Fork was working great with no issues prior. See the picture. It's the smaller of the two o-rings.The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-image.jpg
    Last edited by pcmark; 04-26-2017 at 07:34 AM.

  51. #851
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    There's 3.

    Smallest goes into the groove right near the top end of the collar.

    Biggest goes into the groove where the threads end, near the top of the collar.

    Middle sized one rests on top of the split rings, loose, around the red rebound knob.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  52. #852
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcmark View Post
    Working on a DLR2 that was converted to a PBR damper lat year. First time doing a bearing reset since then. Yeah I know I'm behind, but I don't put a lot of mikes on it. Anyway, I take the top cap off and there's an o-ring just under the cap. I know about that one. Then, when I push the telescope up to get the split rings out to see another O-ring kinda floating around in there. Where did this come from? fork was working great with no issues prior. See the picture. It's the smaller of the two o-rings.Click image for larger version. 

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    Looks like one of those was the old o ring for the original damper top plate. The PBR uses a different size, so probably a random extra part floating around. IIRC.

  53. #853
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    ^Nope^.

    Not to be that guy, but, what I said.... :P


    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  54. #854
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    There's 3.

    Smallest goes into the groove right near the top end of the collar.

    Biggest goes into the groove where the threads end, near the top of the collar.
    Middle sized one rests on top of the split rings, loose, around the red rebound knob.....
    Thanks!

  55. #855
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    How to install the Lefty in a frame

    Hi colleagues

    I am in a mess. I have difficulties to understand how a Lefty has to be installed in a Cannondale specific head tube.The question I have or what I do not understand is, how I can achieve the installation without play. And this questions refer to Lefty with fixe bridges, like the Olaf.
    So normal forks are set play free with the screw in the tube of the fork before tightening the screws of the stem. And similar it is made with these conversion kits for non-Cannondale frames to use a Lefty. There is a cut tube used which goes between the steerer and the clamp of the fork. So that is all clear.

    But how is is this play managed in, for example the FAT CAAD1 with the Olaf Lefty? I saw videos where it is just assembled, nothing else adjusted. It seemed that the distance / length of the head tube is absolutely exactly the distance as the fork bridges have. But I can simply not believe that this should be the case I mean, head tubes must me then exactly in length by maybe 0.01mm ...

    To tell you the reason about my question:
    I am planing to build a (or let build) frame which is intended to be used with an Olaf Lefty. And I am wondering how exact the head tube must be...

    Hope you can help me solve this mystery

    How can this system be adjusted ... ???
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-bildschirmfoto-2017-05-01-um-10.34.45.png

  56. #856
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    Unless you plan to use an adapter steerer like Project 321's, where the play is adjusted in the conventional way, it needs to have the exact same headtube length as the Cannondale bike it came off of.

    On the original bikes, there is no adjustment. It is a light press fit, the clamps are exactly the right spacing for the headtube, and the steerer has bearing seats on it, that correspond to the bearings spacing in the headtube.

    I'd recommend going with 44 mm headtube, and a P321 adapter for tapered. The appropriate headset, and a headtube short enough to accommodate all of the above, within the clamp spacing of the fork you have.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  57. #857
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    Thanks a lot for your input.
    I would like to use the original Olaf steerer. So I just have to find out right and exact head tube length for nominal 110mm FAT CAAD frame. Just spoke to google...
    Are these lenghts nominal somehow fixed? Head tube for frame is said to be 110mm. But how exactly is this defined?
    I know, questions which are not that usual, but although in times where google is your best frend it is hard to find the info I need

  58. #858
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    Your final length with headtube and headset, will need to exactly match that of the Cannondale if you want to go that way.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  59. #859
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubberduckxi View Post
    I would like to use the original Olaf steerer.
    This makes your life, or your framebuilder's life, harder for no practical advantage.

  60. #860
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    So how exactly would you suggest to build the head tube with nominal length 110mm with an Olaf? And which steerer tube / kit would you suggest best?

  61. #861
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rubberduckxi View Post
    So how exactly would you suggest to build the head tube with nominal length 110mm with an Olaf? And which steerer tube / kit would you suggest best?
    Assuming I hadn't already acquired a Lefty, I'd work out - with the framebuilder - the stack and reach I need for a good fit. I'd then source the Lefty Olaf that's most appropriate for the resulting geo. Your options seem to be Olafs with 10cm, 11cm, 12cm and 13cm clamps give or take a few mm. These would yield headtubes roughly 15mm shorter because your lower headset cup is gonna be external and your upper headset cup will eat a few mm too.

    As above, I'd go for a 44m straight headtube with a zero stack upper cup and an external lower cup, because these are easily sourced and easy to work with. I'd use the Project 321 tapered steerer, a chris king headset because I assume money is no object, and whatever stem I fancied at the time.

  62. #862
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    What Howards, (and I) said....

    Also, agreed, unless it's purely because you want to (and isn't that what custom is for?), using the OE steerer and resultant head tube dimensions, offers no advantages.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  63. #863
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    Hello all,
    Yesteraday I done my lefty fork service. Unfortunately it seems that cartridge is broken. I've seen damage like it first time. Have you ever seen something like that? What could be the reason? Probably, cartridge will take an air very quick

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20170429_090055.jpg

  64. #864
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    Hi All

    I have a 29er Lefty on a Scapel which I brought second-hand with a broken frame, it was fully dismantled and came in a big box of bits. I am using OPI stem with leonardi steerer tube (there were a few bits missing.........).

    My question is where can I buy the 2 Nylon washers shown on page 13 of this manual :-

    http://www.stenger-bike.de/download/...fty_Manual.pdf

    One goes at the base of the steerer tube and one goes at the top above the spacers and below the stem.

    My lefty feels a bit loose, like the steerer needs tightening or spacing out, but if I tighten it the steering gets stiff. I was hoping the washers would help 31.8mm is a difficult size to source.

    Thanks

    **UPDATE**

    I have solved this issue by using a 3mm spacer on the OPI stem. I actually used a 1.5" spacer which I opened up to 1.56" using a round file. There is now no gap, and the steerer tube torqued up OK.
    Last edited by RockySpieler; 05-20-2017 at 12:59 PM.

  65. #865
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    Quote Originally Posted by RockySpieler View Post
    Hi All

    I have a 29er Lefty on a Scapel which I brought second-hand with a broken frame, it was fully dismantled and came in a big box of bits. I am using OPI stem with leonardi steerer tube (there were a few bits missing.........).

    My question is where can I buy the 2 Nylon washers shown on page 13 of this manual :-

    http://www.stenger-bike.de/download/...fty_Manual.pdf

    One goes at the base of the steerer tube and one goes at the top above the spacers and below the stem.

    My lefty feels a bit loose, like the steerer needs tightening or spacing out, but if I tighten it the steering gets stiff. I was hoping the washers would help 31.8mm is a difficult size to source.

    Thanks
    Try www.cannondalewxperts.com. I switched out the OPI on my scalpel for a steerer/stem combo because I can run stem lenghts shorter than the ones available for OPI.

    Cheers!

  66. #866
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    Hello!

    Just wondering if the experts here could help me out. I cannot get full travel out of my Lefty Supermax 160, I`ve been reading about volume reducers but only about other Lefties. Does the Supermax have these? If so would it be safe to take them out.

    Thanks in advance.

  67. #867
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    Yes it has them and yes it's safe to remove.

    Just play with pressures accordingly afterward, till you get to a point where you bottom out, now and then, but not many times, every ride.

    Bottoming out is essential to the "auto *sort of* reset" function of the fork, but bottoming out many many many times, will cause a cumulative damage to occur to small bumpers inside, so enough is enough, so to speak.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  68. #868
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Yes it has them and yes it's safe to remove.

    Just play with pressures accordingly afterward, till you get to a point where you bottom out, now and then, but not many times, every ride.

    Bottoming out is essential to the "auto *sort of* reset" function of the fork, but bottoming out many many many times, will cause a cumulative damage to occur to small bumpers inside, so enough is enough, so to speak.
    Thank you sir!

    I wouldn't dare to question the authority on Lefties here, is just a curiosity. I have been searching and came up with this image, it shows that volume reducers are inside, at the end of the damper and not at the bottom as some videos I have seen. I am a little confused and don't know if mine has the volume reducers at the bottom (where the valve is) or at the end of the damper like this picture.


    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-supermax160.jpg

  69. #869
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    Just asking because if I mine has the volume reducers there ^^^^ I don't have the tools or the skills for the job. If the job requires the volume spacers to be removed from the bottom (valve) could you please let me know what size socket should I buy? Thank you again Mendon!

  70. #870
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    The ones in the pic are the "puck" style.

    They are simply loose pieces of plastic. As such, they sit at the bottom, they don't stick to the air piston, or "float" inthe middle of the air chamber. Just fish them out....

    The other style is shaped like a dog bone, and has o ring seals on it. They require only that you thread in a bolt of the correct thread, grab the bolt, and yank to remove.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  71. #871
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    Thank you again, I appreciate your input. Just so that I don't ruin a perfect working Lefty, the puck style volume reducers are removed the same way the dogbone type are removed? from the air valve? Is just that the diagram as I understand says to remove them from the top not from the bottom.

  72. #872
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    Release air, unscrew air plug carefully so as not to damage the wrench flats, and remove the VR(s).

    Pucks will literally fall out, given gravity and opportunity, dog bones need to be yanked.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  73. #873
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    Quote Originally Posted by gatag View Post
    Just so that I don't ruin a perfect working Lefty, the puck style volume reducers are removed the same way the dogbone type are removed?
    There's a video on Youtube describing how to do it.

    Don't copy the bit where the guy uses a wrench to remove the lower air seal. Use a socket. The seal is done up tight, possibly threadlocked, and the wrench will just chew up the flats.

    Don't ask me how I know

  74. #874
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    Thanks everyone, thought I update on this. So... it turns out the Lefty Supermax 160 for a medium size frame DOES NOT have any volume reducers installed from the factory. I opened mine and it doesn`t have any volume reducers. I bought the bike new so it had to be shipped out that way.

  75. #875
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    So, I've got a new (old) Lefty problem for greater Lefty minds.

    To recap: I took a turn badly a few months ago and broke my front wheel. When I was strapping the bike back on the car, I noticed the Lefty was stuck about halfway into the travel. I did the bearing reset procedure when I got home and it seemed fine. The noises I noted earlier probably weren't out of the ordinary, I'd just never keyed in on them before.

    Cue broken collarbone and two months of downtime.

    I'm back on the trail for the first time today. Two miles, no problems. Works as usual. On mile three, I hear my tire rubbing. Turns out the Lefty has collapsed through 70mm of travel and my tire is hitting the crown. The last 30mm has the spring curve the first 30mm usually has.

    I checked the pressure on the trail. It maxed out the gauge on my pump at 120 PSI, I couldn't add any more. I usually set it around 175 PSI (at 170 lbs), I'm pretty sure it hasn't lost any.

    I pulled the front wheel down, extending the Lefty. It felt like pulling water into a syringe. Once I'd extended it, though, it was fine for the next five miles. Then I had to pull it out an inch. Through all this, the lockout was working correctly.

    What did I break? Should I start saving my pennies?

    EDIT: Checked the pressure again, this time with the Lefty (so I thought) fully extended. 120 PSI. A little low, but it's hard to say how much I lost when I checked it trailside. I pumped it back up to 175, then pulled on the wheel. It extended another half-inch.

  76. #876
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    Sounds like your air pressure is getting into the negative side of your air piston pulling down the travel of the Lefty. Does this Lefty have the updated 2Spring I'm doubting it does...

  77. #877
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    Yep, it's current. 2Spring installed just before the ride where I broke the wheel. I found a thread describing similar behavior (which was chalked up to a wavy washer in some cases), but there didn't appear to be a definite answer for newer Leftys.
    Last edited by alexdi; 05-26-2017 at 09:40 PM.

  78. #878
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    Whatever it is, it doesn't sound like something you can fix yourself - so back to the mothership I guess : /

  79. #879
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    I've had several cases of this with 2Spring.

    I told Cannondale about it (twice actually), but was ignored, and told it was impossible.

    One case ended up being the main air piston unscrewing from its mount, enough to prevent the secondary spring from functioning properly.

    Another couple plainly just a bad kits, since replacing them, took care of the issue.

    Heads up Cannondale, 2Spring isn't perfect, take your fingers out of your ears and stop telling yourself fairy tales. Listening to the people who work on a crap ton of them as well, might not be bad advice either.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  80. #880
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I've had several cases of this with 2Spring.

    I told Cannondale about it (twice actually), but was ignored, and told it was impossible.

    One case ended up being the main air piston unscrewing from its mount, enough to prevent the secondary spring from functioning properly.

    Another couple plainly just a bad kits, since replacing them, took care of the issue.
    That has to be an odd thing to hear. "The thing broke." "The thing can't break, you must be mistaken." Seriously? I'll video it if you'd like some documentation. It's fun to watch someone's mind bend in front of you.

    If it turns out to be 2Spring again, I may be in for a wait. It was no trivial thing to get the first kit. Thanks for the tips either way.

    EDIT: Shop took it apart. Nothing obvious amiss, though they did change out an O-ring and relubed the bottom of the 2Spring module. Seems OK for now.
    Last edited by alexdi; 05-28-2017 at 11:57 AM.

  81. #881
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    Add me to the list of negative pressure in my lefty. I had the update done. Now when I let the air out it vacuums itself to the bottomed out position. I thought it was leaking air because I needed higher than usual pressure. I also kept bottoming and couldn't get full extension. From searching around the forums it sounds like this is becoming a common issue.

  82. #882
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpeasle View Post
    Now when I let the air out it vacuums itself to the bottomed out position.
    OK. Tried pulling the lower out to fully extended? That should re-balance the piston. If it doesn't...eesh.

    As I understand it, the port that balances the + and - chambers is only open at full extension - so if you aren't getting full extension for whatever reason, the chambers will never sort themselves out.

  83. #883
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    Nope, nothing's wrong, 2Spring is perfect. : /

    I want to like it, and it does seem to have resolved the severity of problems from the previous two or so generations.

    I do well over 1000 forks a year though, so telling me I'm mistaken isn't really a viable position, considering two of the ones I've seen "bad" had been done at Cannondale, which kinda removes me from doing something differently than they are....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  84. #884
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    I should have taken a video. My mechanic laughed when I showed him. On a stand it sucks itself to bottomed out. It's the third time in for service so off to cannondale it goes. Hopefully they do a great job. I will report back on how it goes.

    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    OK. Tried pulling the lower out to fully extended? That should re-balance the piston. If it doesn't...eesh.

    As I understand it, the port that balances the + and - chambers is only open at full extension - so if you aren't getting full extension for whatever reason, the chambers will never sort themselves out.

  85. #885
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    My 2013 Lefty Hybrid is doing the same thing.

    Let the air out of the fork and the lower leg sucks itself into the upper.

    I recently cut my air spring down to 48mm in order to increase my fork length / travel to 110mm. Thought that might have something to do with it.

    One of the tech's at Project 321 (the rebuilt my fork over the winter) said they don't advise going to the 110 travel anymore because of it's effect on the new 2spring. I ended up doing it anyway per a chat with MendonCycle.

    I've had no problems since...and the fork performs as well as ever.

    I do find it odd that the fork contracts when letting the air out though

  86. #886
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    Quote Originally Posted by biffhamilton View Post
    I do find it odd that the fork does that when letting the air out though???
    Sounds like the solo air valve is trapped closed. Which is better than trapped open I guess. Which seems to be the failure mode of these things!

    Can you force the valve to open by pulling the leg to its full extension?

  87. #887
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Sounds like the solo air valve is trapped closed. Which is better than trapped open I guess. Which seems to be the failure mode of these things!

    Can you force the valve to open by pulling the leg to its full extension?
    No.....

    It did free up once I removed the air cap though.

    Once I start airing it back up everything seems fine.

    As long as it doesn't collapse when I'm riding I guess

  88. #888
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    Has anybody cleaned their Left Hybrid with KH128/
    KIT Service Lefty Hybrid Clean/Lube

    Questions:
    1) Are there any alternative cleaners and lubricants that I can use instead of using this kit?
    2) Are their directions on how this should be used so I can make sure I have all the tools ahead of time? Do I need to drop the lower collar and wiper kit (KH107/) to do this properly?
    3) Are the Cannondale Lefty SuperMax 1.0 and 2.0 service manuals with detailed service of the bearings available online anywhere?

  89. #889
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    Quote Originally Posted by hazelnusse View Post
    Questions?
    1, rubbing alcohol, and 20 wt fork oil.

    2, not that I'm aware of, they want you to use them, or their dealers only.

    3, no.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  90. #890
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    Hi all,


    I am doing a maintenance on my lefty Hybrid and i would like to know if there are somes tips with damper reassembly ? More presisely what is the best order for shims assembly ?


    Thanks
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_20170601_004453_hdr.jpg

  91. #891
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    Thank you! I was able to get the collar off and it looked a bit dirty in there but not bad considering 1 year of use. When flushing with rubbing alcohol, do you recommend flushing the needle bearings by rinsing rubbing alcohol through the inside up of the upper (with damper installed to ensure rubbing alcohol flows through the bearings)? Or just rinsing the lower collar? Presumably if flushing the needle bearings this way, I would want to then add 20 weight oil from the inside top of the needle bearings to ensure they are well lubricated?

    In either case, I presume the lower collar should be filled with 20 weight shock oil prior to threading it back on?

    Do you know the torque spec for the collar and whether any thread locker should be used on those threads?

    Thanks for you help!

  92. #892
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    Hi all.
    I am building Fuji DSR 1.0 fullsus bike with carbon Lefty 110SL and I'm stuck with choosing the Project321 adaptor for it - what's the difference between their 1.0 and 2.0 adaptors? My frame is anyway tapered, so can I choose whatever tapered adapter? Reason is that 1.0 adapter seems out of stock in many places in Europe...

  93. #893
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    Hi!
    I've got an old DLR lefty carbon 110 (Flash Carbon 3 2010), and I would like to replace its bolts for Ti ones (the 4 ones, brakes adapter and frame ones)
    May I use M6x15mm for lefty fork??? I've seen 15mm,16mm,18mm and even 20mm for this bolts...
    I've measure my bolts and they seem 15mm,but I'm not sure about it....
    Thanks!!!


    Enviado desde mi ONEPLUS A3003 mediante Tapatalk

  94. #894
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    Am I correct in that the Lefty PBR 90 that is on my 2014 F29 Carbon 3 uses the same hub as the Supermax? I'm shopping new wheelsets (or a wheel build) and don't want to make a silly mistake.

  95. #895
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    Is there a video on how to bleed the remote lock out lever? I had it done by the shop a couple months back, but the bike had been sitting most of the time. Took it for a ride yesterday and of course, the fork started to lock out on me on and off, and the lever was super tight. Both my leftys might be on ebay soon, maybe someone else will want the problems
    Bike fleet: Scalpel/Habit SE/Synapse Hi Mod/SWorks Tarmac/TJ CX/Trek Speed Concept 9 series/Ridley Noah

  96. #896
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    It's pretty easy. Use a Sram syringe brake blead kit, fill 1 syringe with hydrolylic fork oil, screw on both ends (watch a Sram video on bleeding brakes), squeeze syringe with fluid to the other syringe and repeat. Takes 5-10 minutes.

  97. #897
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    It is important to use the Reverb-Fluid.
    Other Fork-Oils with higher wt than 2.5 doesnt work properly.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  98. #898
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    Actually, mineral oil for brakes (Shimano, Tektro, Magura etc) is the same stuff, I wouldn't use fork oil, yes, too heavy.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  99. #899
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    Hi
    Does anyone know where I can buy lefty supermax 1.5 headset spacers here in the U.K.? Lost one last night when my lefty multi tool exploded. Just need one 5mm spacer.

  100. #900
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    If you have really 1.5 you should use any 1.5 spacer.
    Call any Cannondale Shop. they will have some!
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



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