Page 9 of 14 FirstFirst ... 5678910111213 ... LastLast
Results 401 to 450 of 673
  1. #401
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    I have a 2001 Lefty 100DLR which I have been using since last September. Finally got round to taking out the cartridge to replace the oil seals. The cartridge is in good condition and has not been abused by botched repairs. I have done the top and bottom seals on three headshoks and they were not as good condition.

    There is a new old stock cartridge on eBay at the moment but I suspect it is from a 2000 model. There does appear to be a subtle difference between the two years given there is a difference in the length specified to reset the bearings.

    I can only find one drawing of the cartridge and mine appears to have some additional rubber o rings above the lock out mechanism.

    Does anyone know if the earlier damper will fit in the older fork. The other query I have is that the new damper is a soft and mine is a hard. Is it only the coil spring that differs.

    Given the good condition of my damper I may never need the new damper but spares are getting scarse.

  2. #402
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    If your current fork has a threaded collar at the top end, it's the newer style damper. If it's smooth to the top and you have to pry the black plastic plug out to get at the damper, it's the old style.

    If the damper on eBay has threads on the outside edge of the black cap at the top end, it is the older style damper and will not fit in your gen 2 fork.

    If it's smooth edged, it's a gen 2 that's mislabeled, and will work fine.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  3. #403
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    Hi thanks for confirming that mine is a second generation that ties up with the year of the bike frame. To be fair to the seller I did ask and they did not know which generation it was. It has been listed as HD202/GRN. I have asked them to check if the top cap is threaded. They are a shop and they appear to be having a clear out as they have 7 of these for sale.

    Is there any diffence in the oil part of the damper between the soft, medium and hard. Or is the difference purely in the spring?

    Cheers
    Bruce
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-image.jpg  


  4. #404
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by The-Malcolm View Post
    Is there any diffence in the oil part of the damper between the soft, medium and hard. Or is the difference purely in the spring?
    No problem, and yes, the spring is the only difference.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  5. #405
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    No problem, and yes, the spring is the only difference.
    Thanks the seller confirmed the top cap is threaded. But they did have all 4 springs (including the extra soft) available which are on their way to Scotland.

    I have just replaced the outer races, one of the inner races and needles. I managed to source the ones that were badly pitted or ridged but I failed to source the replacements for the ok races.

    The fork was working ok prior to being stripped down but it is certainly benefiting from the new races. The damage at the top of the races looked like from the fork sitting wet as you can see where the needles have stopped on the race.

    Is it ok to turn the races over and use the other side. The races don't appear to be surfaced. I am assuming they are just a high grade piece of steel.

    I maybe faced with this if I am not able to source replacements in the future. But hopefully with frequent greasing this will not be for a while.

    Bruce

  6. #406
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    The seller confirmed the damper has a threaded top so I have given that a miss. They had a set of three return spring and the extra soft spring so I have ordered them and that will let me fine tune the lefty.

    Is it an option to turn the races over. I have replaced all of the outer races ,one of the inner races and the needles. They were quite badly pitted at the top from what looked like corrosion from sitting wet.The remaining races were not available from any of the suppliers I tried, but they were reasonably ok condition. I have the fork back together and it is operating smoothly enough.
    I was just wondering for future note if they can be turned over if I can't source replacements. The back face of the inner races were all in good condition. Hopefully if I keep greasing them they will last another 14 years on the assumption that these are the original races.

  7. #407
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Yep, backsides of the races are AOK if they are in better shape.

    Just a side note, that gen fork? Doubt you'll be able to tell the slightest difference between springs.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  8. #408
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    It is a second gen. What made me think about changing the spring was that I have been using a Headshok DL 80 with a medium spring in it while I have the lefty in bits. The ride on the headshok felt more absorbant on the trails I know quite well. The air pressure was down a bit from what I normally set it at when I was last out in the headshok and that would also have contributed to the softer ride. I will try the lefty with a lower air pressure as well when it is back together. It will be few more days before I get the damper back together as I need to get a shot of a fly press to change the top seals. I will let you know how I get on once the springs arrive.

  9. #409
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    All they control is top out absorption.

    Too soft a spring and too high a pressure? It'll top out with a notable thunk.

    Any other scenario will be pretty much moot......

    Speed DLR2 series forks? They have a much stronger, longer spring, and those do have some negative spring properties.

    Likely you're feeling a difference e in bearing preload....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  10. #410
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    Below are images of the races that I have replaced. As I say I replaced one of the inners and all four of the outer races. I was not aware there was an issue with the races until I stripped the fork down. I was stripping it down to deal with the oil seals. I'm sure the pitting will have been providing some unwanted friction. The needles were not too bad but they were a bit dull looking so I replaced them for good measure. The fork is running smooth now.

    I take you point on not being able to feel the effect of the return springs. They were not expensive so I am happy to experiment with them.


    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-inner-race.jpgThe official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-outer-races.jpg

  11. #411
    mtbr member
    Reputation: andrepsz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    728
    Can someone tell me if its possible to use a lefty fork without the damping cartridge inside..or somehow take the damping feature out and if this would save any weight ? or course...replaced by some kind of plastic spacer to make up for the volume taken off?

  12. #412
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    First answer, no.

    Second, I suppose, if someone wanted to spend a whole bunch of time and effort and $, you could likely make a "dummy", but then that begs the question, why??
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  13. #413
    mtbr member
    Reputation: andrepsz's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    728
    What do you mean about the dummy? I found somewhere in this forum someone mentioning the possibility to remove the damping and that would save about 200g.

  14. #414
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    A plug, a space filler, a non functional part.

    Why on earth would you want to remove the damping from a suspension fork? There's a reason it's there, and it's not just to add weight.

    Are you saying leave the spring, but lose the damper, or, make it a rigid Lefty?

    The former? Buy a fat bike if you want undamped suspension.

    The latter? Pour salty water into it and wait a few days, then remove the guts, voila, rigid Lefty.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  15. #415
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    8

    strange click noise

    hi everyone I would be very grateful if someone could help me. I have a 2014 pbr 29er 100mm travel Cannondale lefty hybrid fitted to my 2014 scalpel 29er. recently my lefty it has started making a click noise (which can be felt at the handlebars) when compressed especially when standing up on the peddles going up hill rocking the bike from side to side. I have done a manual reset and checked the tightness of the bolts up front and everything seems to be as it should be. does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the noise?

  16. #416
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    If your current fork has a threaded collar at the top end, it's the newer style damper. If it's smooth to the top and you have to pry the black plastic plug out to get at the damper, it's the old style.

    If the damper on eBay has threads on the outside edge of the black cap at the top end, it is the older style damper and will not fit in your gen 2 fork.

    If it's smooth edged, it's a gen 2 that's mislabeled, and will work fine.
    Hi I doubt you will be able answer this. I was considering buying one of the first generation dampers and changing the black cap to a second generation. I have taken the black cap off and replaced with a hydraulic press in the past when changing the oil seals on a DL80 damper. It would allow me to replace the another damper that has been abused by the previous owner and has a scored shaft. Whats your thoughts?

  17. #417
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    All they control is top out absorption.

    Too soft a spring and too high a pressure? It'll top out with a notable thunk.

    Any other scenario will be pretty much moot......

    Speed DLR2 series forks? They have a much stronger, longer spring, and those do have some negative spring properties.

    Likely you're feeling a difference e in bearing preload....
    I have measured the pre-load with the new bearing races and needles. The size of the races are the same as were previously fitted but that is not to say they were correct. Using a spring balance to measure the effort to compress the fork without the damper. Before lubrication I was getting a reading of 8lb and with lubrication 6lb. Is this still too much preload.

    I am struggling to get thinner races to create some more clearance. I measured the headshok I have been using while the lefty is in bits and it measures 4lb. So this probably explains why I felt the headshok was a softer ride.

  18. #418
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Removing the top "cap" isn't the correct way to service the damper, andI don't recommend ever doing that. That said, everything is well out of warranty, and if you don't mind not knowing how secure things are in the long term, go for it.

    I wouldn't do that though, just source the right parts and keep your face and teeth in tact.

    Preload? Never measured it that way, all based on feel, so I can't say really. If it felt softer, likely the lighter preload your seeing is playing a part, yes.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  19. #419
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post

    I wouldn't do that though, just source the right parts and keep your face and teeth in tact.

    Preload? Never measured it that way, all based on feel, so I can't say really. If it felt softer, likely the lighter preload your seeing is playing a part, yes.
    Points noted about there being an element of risk of failure with this. I would prefer to use the corrects parts but there does not appear to be any replacement dampers available and I am keen to keep them going.

    In one of your previous I thought I read that the pre-load should be 4lb and that's why I was measuring it. I appreciate it is probably something that you know when it feels right with your experience.

  20. #420
    mtbr member
    Reputation: tricofisher's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    58
    Anybody have a link or instructions on checking the oil level and rebuild for a 2013 Lefty PBR?
    Thanks in advance
    "There is a road--no simple highway"

  21. #421
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Posts
    8
    the only info I have found are some videos here: https://vimeo.com/user8293141/videos

    and
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKJjQkOov1s

    Quote Originally Posted by tricofisher View Post
    Anybody have a link or instructions on checking the oil level and rebuild for a 2013 Lefty PBR?
    Thanks in advance

  22. #422
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    2
    Hello, hoping I can get some guidance/help.

    I have a 2008 Lefty DLR2 on my 29er 2. I never did any maintenance...until this week ! I cleaned and re-oiled the air filer, relubed the races, and did a bearing reset (they were fine). Honestly, the fork seemed to work just fine before, but my guilt over neglecting it finally overcame me.

    In any case, both before this week, and especially now, I have to put way more air in than the maintenance chart suggests. Currently, I have 180psi in there...and it STILL feels a bit soft to me, with sag at the high end of the range. I am 195lbs.

    Second, while letting air out to do the maintenance, the fork "slimed" me. I was standing over it, and couldn't see where it came from, but it blasted my finger and coated the disc brake mount. I thought it came out of the shrader valve and bounced up...but honestly am not sure.

    Is something broken internally ? It feels much softer now, especially the initial travel. Suggestions, thoughts welcome.

  23. #423
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by JCinFL View Post
    Suggestions, thoughts welcome.
    The oil that came out is the air chamber lube. Best practice when releasing air is to flip it upside down and let the oil flow away from the valve for a few minutes.

    No damage, no harm, you just got a facial.....

    You reset the bearings, likely they were pretty migrated considering you'd never done it. As such, the fork would have been far more progressive feeling, as well as short on travel.

    You now have the fork, working as it was originally intended, both inspiring rate and travel. Likely feels very different than what you had before.

    The updated version of the air spring no longer uses air chamber oil, so is a cleaner air release, feels a bit nicer too.

    Speaking of facials, this was a week or so ago, bet I beat yours.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-unnamed-8.jpg  

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  24. #424
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Posts
    2
    Mendon,
    Ha ! Brother, you got nailed ! Thanks...

    I had one more question. In my DLR2 manual (1200025), on page 21 it says when doing a bearing reset, the top-to-bottom measurement should be 695mm. After resetting, I came up way short...but then I noticed/remembered my 29er spacers. After adding in the spacer length, my measurement came in at 698mm...almost perfect.

    My question is: should I have added the spacer distance ? The manual makes no mention of of 29er vs anything else. I am worried I still have more bearing adjustment to go, though the sound was a resounding "thunk", and coupled with the measurement, seemed like I had it right.

  25. #425
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    I've had folks pull their forks apart, trying to get 3 more mm's.....

    I never use the measurement method, or recommend it, for this reason.

    You're going to be doing it again, who cares if you're missing a mm or two?

    You mention sound, I always suggest that as a good indicator, if paid attention to from the beginning. But also, watching the top cap where the split rings go. It should end up ~ an inch down inside at full extension during reset.

    The spacers are just along for the ride on the damper shaft, as it's installed into the lower leg, they have no impact on length at full reset, installed or not.

    And yeah, I got creamed. So lucky I wear glasses, or that day would have ended with a trip the ER, my glasses were totally slimed....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  26. #426
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Posts
    8
    Does anyone know what size detent ball goes into the red damper adjustment knob in a 2007 Lefty Max 140? Lost them a little while ago and would like to have the ability to click in a setting and have it stay that way. Ive searched the forums and online but can't find the actual size (only comments that they exist and not to lose them!)...sorry if I missed these details somewhere else!

  27. #427
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    176
    I have a 2013 Lefty Hybrid 90mm Carbon, looking in the service manual it says:
    Damper Service:
    Air spring/Damping Cartridge Inspection
    100 hour or every year

    Full Service (Telescope Rebuild + Damper service)
    200 hours

    Can somebody tell me please that this kit (KH085 - Solo Air Piston Kit Lefty Ultra 29er 90mm) is for the Full Service or also for Damper Service ? And if it's for Full service than on Damper service is there another kit required ?
    Is there any other kit required for this 2 service operations ?
    Thanks!

  28. #428
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Posts
    176
    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    I have a 2013 Lefty Hybrid 90mm Carbon, looking in the service manual it says:
    Damper Service:
    Air spring/Damping Cartridge Inspection
    100 hour or every year

    Full Service (Telescope Rebuild + Damper service)
    200 hours

    Can somebody tell me please that this kit (KH085 - Solo Air Piston Kit Lefty Ultra 29er 90mm) is for the Full Service or also for Damper Service ? And if it's for Full service than on Damper service is there another kit required ?
    Is there any other kit required for this 2 service operations ?
    Thanks!
    Nobody doesn't know what kits are required for servicing a 2013 Lefty ?

  29. #429
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    145
    PM sent.

  30. #430
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    311
    What is the current longest travel Lefty for 26" tires? Normal tires, not fatbike tires. LOL

    Andy B.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  31. #431
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    What is the current longest travel Lefty for 26" tires? Normal tires, not fatbike tires. LOL

    Andy B.

    New, out of a box, ordered from Cannondale? 100.

    They can be made to work for up to 140 "new in a box", but a new fork would have to go to the Factory tech room and get rebuilt to do so.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  32. #432
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    311
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    New, out of a box, ordered from Cannondale? 100.

    They can be made to work for up to 140 "new in a box", but a new fork would have to go to the Factory tech room and get rebuilt to do so.....
    That stinks. I thought there was a 160mm version at some point?
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  33. #433
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    That stinks. I thought there was a 160mm version at some point?
    Hmm, you may be right. I don;t sell the bike brand, nor do I have an outside rep that stops by, nor do I pursue constant info updates.

    Now that you mention it, I do recall hearing something about more than 140. I'd suggest calling Cannondale directly for the most accurate answer on when and if.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  34. #434
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jaknudsen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    20

    Rebound dial on Ultra 120 XLR not working

    I have a 2012 Lefty Ultra XLR 120. Recently I noticed that the rebound dial had become almost impossible to turn. Loosening the outer collar allows the rebound dial to turn freely, but I can turn it endlessly and turning has no impact on the actual rebound performance of the fork. Tightening the collar to 4-5 nm again hinders dial movement. I've cleaned and regreased the lockout/rebound unit (KH082) and also cleaned the hex hole where the XLR assembly is inserted. When I turn the rebound dial while it's inserted, I notice that the inner shaft also turns in the cartridge – I don't know if this is normal?

    Any help will be truly appreciated!
    Procrastinators – the leaders of tomorrow.

  35. #435
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    It got overtightened, and is stuck.

    Forcing it in the manner available to you (the knob) will result in damage.

    Damper needs to be torn apart, easily dealt with at that point.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  36. #436
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jaknudsen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    20
    Thanks for the quick reply! It's time to get the super castle tool, then …
    Procrastinators – the leaders of tomorrow.

  37. #437
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    4
    Hi,

    I have done a search and can't seem to find an answer, and am a MTB noob, so was looking for some help.

    I am considering buying a 2nd hand Cannondale Rush 2007 Carbon, and the current owner has changed out the original lefty (110mm travel) to one with 140mm travel.

    Can someone tell me what would be the effect of this? Is it detrimental to handling/performance? Is there a changed A-C length, and can this be compensated for by moving the shock within the "holder"?

    From what I can tell, I can put in different spacers etc to get it back down to the original travel of 110mm if necessary - is this right? And would doing so return the handling back to the original factory design?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  38. #438
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    1
    Hi
    I have a problem with my Supermax 160 27.5 ( Jekyll ) . I can't remove damper. I can make two - three rotations and it stops . I don't know if there is any t&t , or simply should I use bigger hammer ?

  39. #439
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dRjOn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,113
    couple of questions on 27.5 140mm supermax.

    from searching it seems the offset is 50mm, but can anyone tell me what the a-c is?

    i want to use one with a 27.5+ front wheel. is travel limiting likely to be needed? (im guessing yes, because the tyre will be around 1cm greater, maybe more, in radius to a normal 27.5 tyre)

    i know there is a 29" 130mm supermax that could be used but it has 60mm offset. im also hoping the 140mm 27.5 might just be a little shorter a-c also.

    thanks!

  40. #440
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    2
    Eh up,

    Just after some advice, I have a lefty pbr 90 and replaced the wave washer on the air piston but have noticed a damaged needle bearing - looks like the cage is damaged and one needle has come out and is sitting at the top of the bearing cage at 90 degrees. Any ideas what might have caused this and is removing the lower leg just a case of removing the glide bush nut and it pulling out?

    Cheers

  41. #441
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by ohbaby View Post
    Any ideas what might have caused this and is removing the lower leg just a case of removing the glide bush nut and it pulling out?
    Likely either overly aggressive bearing resets or, not doing resets and thus excessive migration.

    More involved than as described, need to pull it all the way apart, inspect the other bearings, and do a full rebuild, cause at this point, based on what you're saying, it's been a while....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  42. #442
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Posts
    2
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Likely either overly aggressive bearing resets or, not doing resets and thus excessive migration.

    More involved than as described, need to pull it all the way apart, inspect the other bearings, and do a full rebuild, cause at this point, based on what you're saying, it's been a while....
    Cheers mendon, the forks barely 9 months old and has been reset regularly. You say pull it all the way apart but it feels as if there is a definite stop there as if some sort of retainer needs to be removed before it separates.

  43. #443
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    There's a number of steps and retention devices, yes.

    If you aren't familiar, I would highly recommend seeking out someone who is, for the longevity and performance of your fork, as well as peace of mind for you, and your front teeth.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  44. #444
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Posts
    11
    I have the new white Super Castle Tool which I use to service my Lefty Hybrid. Do I need tool KH123 to service the Lefty Hybrid 2.0 or will the Super Castle Tool work.

    Many thanks.

  45. #445
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    couple of questions on 27.5 140mm supermax.
    Offset is actually 55mm, and a2c is 530....

    Hope that helps!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  46. #446
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dRjOn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,113
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Offset is actually 55mm, and a2c is 530....

    Hope that helps!
    A bunch! Thanks muchly! Any idea where I can get my mitts on a tech drawing?

  47. #447
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    A bunch! Thanks muchly! Any idea where I can get my mitts on a tech drawing?
    Not really, what are you looking for?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  48. #448
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dRjOn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,113
    Really just as much detail as possible. I am wanting to use this on a hard tail frame with 27.5+ (true 3") front wheel and I am trying to work out if I can swap between this set up and a makwa fork/29+ front wheel. Hard tail, custom ti. At ~ 530 a-c given sag it is in the mm between the 2, but headset set up/ clamp depth etc would be nice to know/ work out.

  49. #449
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,934
    They don't make drawings etc available, but the forks are available in 4 spacings, 97mm, 110 mm, 122 mm and 134mm.

    Clamps do not move, so consider overall stack height, headtube and headset.

    Project 321 makes steerer conversions for either tapered, or 1 1/8" straight. Simple, clean, work awesome.

    Need more, hit me.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  50. #450
    mtbr member
    Reputation: dRjOn's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    2,113
    Thanks once again! Appreciate your help here... I'll start with that and see how we go! Cheers!

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    They don't make drawings etc available, but the forks are available in 4 spacings, 97mm, 110 mm, 122 mm and 134mm.

    Clamps do not move, so consider overall stack height, headtube and headset.

    Project 321 makes steerer conversions for either tapered, or 1 1/8" straight. Simple, clean, work awesome.

    Need more, hit me.

Page 9 of 14 FirstFirst ... 5678910111213 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •