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  1. #701
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    The regular adapters for 'normal' forks won't work as far as I know.

    I've searched most of the well known Cannondale specific shops online and could not find, or even the mention of a 203mm adapter for the Supermax.

    There is nothing in any of the official Supermax owner manuals about a 203mm adapter, only 180mm is listed

    Eventually I gave up looking and kept the 180mm.

    The only place that did turn up something was from the Project 321 website, but again it is only mentioned and not an actual item listed for sale with a part number, price or even a picture.

    I'd say your best bet is to ask them about it. Have a look here at the features section, its the last item listed.

    PROJECT 321 | Products: Cannondale 2015 Carbon SuperMax Lefty 650b
    The names have been changed to protect the innocent...

  2. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by r34 gtr View Post
    Hi - what does everyone use to flush their lefty 2.0 other then RSP flush?
    I use shimano degreaser

  3. #703
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    One more lefty 2.0 question - do I need to put any oil in the lower leg where the 2spring is or just grease?

    Thanks

  4. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by r34 gtr View Post
    Hi - what does everyone use to flush their lefty 2.0 other then RSP flush?

    Thanks Steve
    Cannondale's tech videos indicate to use isopropyl alcohol.

  5. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by r34 gtr View Post
    One more lefty 2.0 question - do I need to put any oil in the lower leg where the 2spring is or just grease?

    Thanks
    No oil in there. Coat the o rings with something like slick honey, and I lubricate the air spring seal and upper air piston inner seals with a little Phil's Tenacious oil. Torque your damper back in to 27nm / 20 ft lb. add 10cc of 20wt suspension fluid or float fluid, and carry on.

  6. #706
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    Thanks 👍

  7. #707
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    My first lefty(xlr 2.0 100mm) , my first problem. After 300 Km riding fork started bottom out at 7 cm travel. The air pressure in the air chamber is the same as it should be. What's the problem?

  8. #708
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreicha View Post
    My first lefty(xlr 2.0 100mm) , my first problem. After 300 Km riding fork started bottom out at 7 cm travel. The air pressure in the air chamber is the same as it should be. What's the problem?
    Have you done a bearing reset?

    Bike upside down. Shockpump on. Note the pressure (if you like it). Let all the air out. Remove pump. Bike rubber side down. Compress fork hard + fast until it bottoms out. Repeat a few times.

    Bike upside down again. Travel should now be back to 100mm. Air fork back up again.

    If this solves your issue, consider letting a bit of pressure out so that you can bottom Lefty out during a ride, removing the need to do it manually.

  9. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreicha View Post
    My first lefty(xlr 2.0 100mm) , my first problem. After 300 Km riding fork started bottom out at 7 cm travel. The air pressure in the air chamber is the same as it should be. What's the problem?
    What Howards said - also could be broken air spring wavy washer. There's a mandatory upgrade/recall going on for these forks to install a new design air spring, should be free of charge, or relatively inexpensive. If you don't have the "2 spring" logo sticker on the front of your fork, then you should get the upgrade done.

  10. #710
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    Thanks, it worked. It took 1 minute to reset

  11. #711
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    Happy days

  12. #712
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    Slight sag in Lefty Supermax 2.0

    Hey guys, I have a 2015 lefty Supermax 140mm that seem to have about a 10mm sag without me even sitting on the bike almost feel like a floating point before the fork engages. If I lift the bike the sag goes away... the bike is a 2015 Trigger carbon 2.

    Wave spring replaced, solo air o-rings replaced, bumpers replaced... not sure what can cause this.
    Any input is greatly appreciated.

    Cheers!

  13. #713
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    I'd do a manual bearing reset first. You said the wave washer was replaced, but if you don't have the new 2 Spring, have that done, while the shop is in there they can take another look at it.

  14. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    I'd do a manual bearing reset first. You said the wave washer was replaced, but if you don't have the new 2 Spring, have that done, while the shop is in there they can take another look at it.
    Thanks for the quick response. I did the bearing reset and the fork behaved the same. Thinking of sending it in to have the 2Spring installed and hopefully that will solve the issue.I'm thinking there could be something else that may be causing that behavior.

    Cheers!

  15. #715
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    Hello all
    I am strongly considering installing a supermax 160 27.5" on my old 26" jekyll, however I would absolutely need to lower the travel to 150mm to keep the front down.
    I know the travel isn't adjustable officially, but would it be possible with internal modifications?
    How does the positive-negative air chamber balancing works? It's a channle on the inside of the stanchion like in some rock shox forks or are there two valves?
    If I lower the fork, could it cause problems to the hydraulic cartridge?
    Could it cause issues during regular maintenance procedures?

  16. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    Hello all
    I am strongly considering installing a supermax 160 27.5" on my old 26" jekyll, however I would absolutely need to lower the travel to 150mm to keep the front down.
    I know the travel isn't adjustable officially, but would it be possible with internal modifications?
    How does the positive-negative air chamber balancing works? It's a channle on the inside of the stanchion like in some rock shox forks or are there two valves?
    If I lower the fork, could it cause problems to the hydraulic cartridge?
    Could it cause issues during regular maintenance procedures?
    Hi there from what I know the damper cartridge determines the usable travel for the bike for e.g. my Trigger can go up to 160mm in total travel because it has the physical stantion length but the damper installed is a 140 damper. Others can chime in if this is not the case.
    There is a solo air assembly at the end of the damper that balances the positive and negative air in the chamber.
    Consider also that that fork may change the bike's geometry and ride characteristics. Hope this helps!

  17. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by estyjam@gmail.com View Post
    There is a solo air assembly at the end of the damper that balances the positive and negative air in the chamber.
    So that means there's a groove in the inner stanchion to allow air pressure to equalize at full extension?

    Looking at the exploded view in the manual, it looks like it could be a matter of just adding a spacer between the upper seal head and the damping cartridge, and modifying or remaking the air piston (shortening it) to compensate and keep the seal at the correct height to keep the solo air working.

  18. #718
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    Super helpful thread! Thanks!

  19. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    Hello all
    I am strongly considering installing a supermax 160 27.5" on my old 26" jekyll, however I would absolutely need to lower the travel to 150mm to keep the front down.
    I know the travel isn't adjustable officially, but would it be possible with internal modifications?
    How does the positive-negative air chamber balancing works? It's a channle on the inside of the stanchion like in some rock shox forks or are there two valves?
    If I lower the fork, could it cause problems to the hydraulic cartridge?
    Could it cause issues during regular maintenance procedures?
    I also have a Lefty I was thinking of reducing the axle to crown dimension. Does any one know how the negative side is charged? If I add another top out bumper or get a longer upper air seal it may not let air get to the other side of the piston.

  20. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    So that means there's a groove in the inner stanchion to allow air pressure to equalize at full extension?

    Looking at the exploded view in the manual, it looks like it could be a matter of just adding a spacer between the upper seal head and the damping cartridge, and modifying or remaking the air piston (shortening it) to compensate and keep the seal at the correct height to keep the solo air working.
    It's not a groove in the stanchion, the solo air valve opens when the air piston tops out on the bumber.
    You can reduce the travel by simply adding a spacer between the cartridge and the upper air seal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Integrexman View Post
    I also have a Lefty I was thinking of reducing the axle to crown dimension. Does any one know how the negative side is charged? If I add another top out bumper or get a longer upper air seal it may not let air get to the other side of the piston.

  21. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    So that means there's a groove in the inner stanchion to allow air pressure to equalize at full extension?

    Looking at the exploded view in the manual, it looks like it could be a matter of just adding a spacer between the upper seal head and the damping cartridge, and modifying or remaking the air piston (shortening it) to compensate and keep the seal at the correct height to keep the solo air working.

    To make the fork shorter you need a longer upper air seal. Your travel will be reduced based on the additional length of the upper air seal.

    Attachment 1104642

    To reduce the travel only, you need to add travel spacers at the top of the damper shaft above the damper cartridge.

    I do not see how the balancing of the positive/negative air chamber will be affected by any of these modifications.

  22. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by estyjam@gmail.com View Post
    To make the fork shorter you need a longer upper air seal. Your travel will be reduced based on the additional length of the upper air seal.

    Attachment 1104642

    To reduce the travel only, you need to add travel spacers at the top of the damper shaft above the damper cartridge.

    I do not see how the balancing of the positive/negative air chamber will be affected by any of these modifications.
    I can't see your attachment, however I understand what you're saying.
    I would use the fork with a 26" wheel, so the best would be to decrease the axle to crown by 10mm while keeping 160mm of travel, which means to allow the fork to compress 10mm more than normal... from what I understand, if I could move the silver collar down the cartridge by that amount (if it's even possible) I would obtain just that, but would the stanchion slide 100m further inside? Is the bottom-out bumper the one just under the top cap? Probably the square sides of the stanchion aren't just long enough...

  23. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    I can't see your attachment, however I understand what you're saying.
    I would use the fork with a 26" wheel, so the best would be to decrease the axle to crown by 10mm while keeping 160mm of travel, which means to allow the fork to compress 10mm more than normal... from what I understand, if I could move the silver collar down the cartridge by that amount (if it's even possible) I would obtain just that, but would the stanchion slide 100m further inside? Is the bottom-out bumper the one just under the top cap? Probably the square sides of the stanchion aren't just long enough...

    With the 160mm damper that is in the fork, if you reduce the ride height you will also reduce the travel. By installing the longer upper air seal to reduce height, you are pulling the damper shaft further down into the fork's stantion... less travel!

    Attachment 1104737

    Remember the damper cartridge is bolted onto the top of the stantion so your travel is the amount by which the damper shaft can slide into the damper before bottoming out as seen in the diagram. And yes the bottom out bumper is below the top cap.

    Hope this helps!

  24. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by estyjam@gmail.com View Post
    ...
    Hope this helps!
    Perfectly clear, thank you.
    I was also considering to move the threaded sleeve on the damper cartridge up by 10mm, that would shorten the fork without alter the travel, but I don't know it the stanchion can slide 10mm further inside. The square sides of the stanchion might not be long enough.

  25. #725
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    What is the difference between XC+ tune damper and Trail+ tune damper ?

  26. #726
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    would not screwing the cartridge all the way result in the same behavior? I just had the 2S spring recall and lost 20mm or travel. I can see the top of the cartridge "castle" nut. Before I couldn't see that. Leads me think that the shop has not fully threaded the cartridge into the lefty top housing.

  27. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcko View Post
    would not screwing the cartridge all the way result in the same behavior? I just had the 2S spring recall and lost 20mm or travel. I can see the top of the cartridge "castle" nut. Before I couldn't see that. Leads me think that the shop has not fully threaded the cartridge into the lefty top housing.
    Typically it's not hard to see the top of the cartridge if you have your upper collar off - remember that fork position moves the cartridge up and down with the inner fork leg. If you compress the fork completely, the cartridge is only ~4 inches below the top of the fork. If you have lost nearly an inch of travel, I'd first follow the appropriate steps for a manual bearing reset, and make sure you have the proper measurement of stanchion for your particular fork. If that doesn't fix it, or you can't get to the proper measurement with the reset - take the fork back in for them to look at.

  28. #728
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    If I have a head tube that is ~115mm and a lefty supermax fork with clamp spacing of 134mm, can I make this work? Is it a matter of spacers? Or would this not be recommended?
    Thanks?

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG718 View Post
    If I have a head tube that is ~115mm and a lefty supermax fork with clamp spacing of 134mm, can I make this work? Is it a matter of spacers? Or would this not be recommended?
    Thanks?
    Depending on your frame - typically just a spacer solution. That's how the cannondale "Lefty for all" conversion system works, and I think that's how Project 321 handles it as well.

  30. #730
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG718 View Post
    If I have a head tube that is ~115mm and a lefty supermax fork with clamp spacing of 134mm, can I make this work? Is it a matter of spacers? Or would this not be recommended?
    Thanks?
    check your total stack height (headtube + complete headset), if it's less then 137mm you can make it work with just some spacers, no problem.

  31. #731
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    check your total stack height (headtube + complete headset), if it's less then 137mm you can make it work with just some spacers, no problem.
    It'd be a Tallboy 3. I'm not sure I'd be concerned that the fork is too small... more concerned that clamp spacing would be too big. Cannondale's headtube size is larger than a comparably sized Santa Cruz, I believe.

  32. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG718 View Post
    It'd be a Tallboy 3. I'm not sure I'd be concerned that the fork is too small... more concerned that clamp spacing would be too big. Cannondale's headtube size is larger than a comparably sized Santa Cruz, I believe.
    Looking at SC's site for the Tallboy3 - headtube length is 100mm for a Med/Lg and uses a Cane Creek IS41 upper headset which adds ~9mm of stack height. Bottom is an IS52 which CC says is a 1mm stack height. So - you're at ~110mm total stack height. Rest will need spacers to take up the difference.

  33. #733
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcko View Post
    would not screwing the cartridge all the way result in the same behavior? I just had the 2S spring recall and lost 20mm or travel. I can see the top of the cartridge "castle" nut. Before I couldn't see that. Leads me think that the shop has not fully threaded the cartridge into the lefty top housing.

    turned out that mechanic installed a spacer to reduce the travel after misunderstanding my sag mark request.

    Spacer removed and now travel is normal.

  34. #734
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    Stripped Rebound Knob Set Scew - HELP !
    I have a 2008 29er hardtail with a Lefty (80mm travel).

    Have been successfully maintaining the fork for years (with help from this thread) but either I over-tightened or got rust/something in my rebound knob set screw. It uses a little 1.5mm hex head, and I stripped the screw trying to remove it. ARRGG. My bad. I can turn the rebound knob such that I can get a screwdriver under the lip and perhaps pry it off, but concerned about bending or damaging the fork innards. Any advice on getting this thing off ? I tried stuffing steel wool in there as "filler", but that didn't work. The usual remedies for removing stripped screws don't work because the screw is down in a hole in the knob. One can't even see it. Any advice welcome. This must be a sign I need a new bike.

  35. #735
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    Try an SAE allen set. The similarly sized one is slightly larger, often gives you that one more time, you need.

    Then either source a new set screw, or just get a new knob.....

    Beyond that, careful drill time, and then a new knob.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  36. #736
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    Thank you Mendon !

  37. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCinFL View Post
    Stripped Rebound Knob Set Scew - HELP !
    I have a 2008 29er hardtail with a Lefty (80mm travel).

    Have been successfully maintaining the fork for years (with help from this thread) but either I over-tightened or got rust/something in my rebound knob set screw. It uses a little 1.5mm hex head, and I stripped the screw trying to remove it. ARRGG. My bad. I can turn the rebound knob such that I can get a screwdriver under the lip and perhaps pry it off, but concerned about bending or damaging the fork innards. Any advice on getting this thing off ? I tried stuffing steel wool in there as "filler", but that didn't work. The usual remedies for removing stripped screws don't work because the screw is down in a hole in the knob. One can't even see it. Any advice welcome. This must be a sign I need a new bike.
    If you cannot remove the set screw as is, one suggestion would be to use a dremmel and cut a channel across the top of the screw so you can use a flat blade screwdriver to unscrew it. This method worked for me most times I damage the head of a small screw. If you scratch the release push button in the process you can find that on the internet for cheap.

    Hope this helps!

  38. #738
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    Can't do that.

    Head of the set screw is inside a hole, a few mm's deep....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  39. #739
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    Might also try a tiny left hand drill bit/ extractor. Cheap kit here: Left Hand Drill Bit Set 13 Pc

  40. #740
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    Been there, done that. The taper hits the outer edge of the knobs hole before the thing engages. Don't waste your $...

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  41. #741
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    Anyone know first hand if a lefty 2.0 27.5 100mm could be converted to a 29? I was going to send it out to have the air spring updated and figured it'd be a good time to have it modified. My son is on a 2016 Small FSi and I want to change wheel size. I really think the small frame from 2015 to 2016 remained the same and they just changed the wheel size. I have already stuff a 29 rear wheel in there with plenty of clearance around the stays

    TIA

  42. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejreyes6 View Post
    Anyone know first hand if a lefty 2.0 27.5 100mm could be converted to a 29? I was going to send it out to have the air spring updated and figured it'd be a good time to have it modified. My son is on a 2016 Small FSi and I want to change wheel size. I really think the small frame from 2015 to 2016 remained the same and they just changed the wheel size. I have already stuff a 29 rear wheel in there with plenty of clearance around the stays

    TIA
    Should work may need to add some cartridge spacers at the top to prevent the larger wheel from contacting the bottom of the steerer.

    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...151215T165638Z

  43. #743
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    It need to go to Cannondale to have the bottom out points reworked, in order to maintain the "automatic reset" functionality it came with.

    If you don't care about that, and are okay with doing manual resets, then yes, space accordingly, and ride.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  44. #744
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    Thanks I'd rather not limit has travel so I'll send it in to get reworked. Hopefully the cost isn't too much.

    Thanks again


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  45. #745
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    As published, there are geometry differences between the '15 (29er), and '16 (27.5) size smalls. Not tons, but some - almost half an inch less BB drop on the '16, and a longer actual top tube length in my mind means they had to scrunch the triangle downward a bit to get to the same 12.1" BB height for the 2 bikes regardless of which tire size it was running. If these geo numbers are accurate I'd expect the bike to be taller on standover, and you'd be raising that "down low" CG feel that it currently has.

    How much does it affect it? Who knows, I'm just going by the numbers.

  46. #746
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    Thank for the input. I've been going over the geo changes my self. Currently with 2.1 racing ralph the bb height is actually below 12".

  47. #747
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    In the process of rebuilding my lefty and had a few questions...

    Lots of digging and no definitive answer as to whether it is possible to increase the travel of a 2013 XLR 100 Hybrid to 110mm? Is it just as simple as removing 1 of the 3 spacers on the damper shaft?

    Not too concerned with tire contacting bottom of steerer tube area, with the damper removed and fork fully depressed there is still as least 10mm of clearance here... Really makes me wonder why those 3 spacers are needed when the fork will not physically travel far enough for my tire (2.4 Conti XKing) to hit the steerer tube (or even come close).

    Read a thread talking about "modifying" the upper air seal but not sure how well that information pertains to the hybrid lefty... My upper air seal is 58mm.

    Lastly if anyone has a good link for instruction on changing damper oil it would be much appreciated.

    Lots of good information on here. Appreciate everyones input.

  48. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by neumanno View Post
    Read a thread talking about "modifying" the upper air seal but not sure how well that information pertains to the hybrid lefty... My upper air seal is 58mm.
    This will help you understand how the damper fits inside the lefty...
    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...150820T111337Z

    The upper air seal does control how far into the travel the fork goes and the bottom out spacers are a safeguard to protect the wheel from contacting the bottom of the stem... I would consult a Cannondale service center before making any modifications.

    Also, if you haven't bled a damper before it can get tricky. A good shop will tell you if the fork can give you an extra 10mm travel... they can do the 100hr service which should include changing the damper oil.

    Sorry if this didn't help much but sometimes it is less frustration if we let the experts do it, and you get someone to blame

  49. #749
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    Can anyone think of a reason why a 160mm Lefty converted to 150mm wouldn't work on a 2017 Trek Remedy?

    The offset and axle-crown would be close enough; so I wouldn't anticipate any problems with the straight down tube, but this knock-block thing is pretty confusing.

  50. #750
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheyLookLikeUs View Post
    Can anyone think of a reason why a 160mm Lefty converted to 150mm wouldn't work on a 2017 Trek Remedy?

    The offset and axle-crown would be close enough; so I wouldn't anticipate any problems with the straight down tube, but this knock-block thing is pretty confusing.
    That is, I don't think the wheel striking the frame will be an issue. And if I can find one of these I think it'll all work out.

  51. #751
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheyLookLikeUs View Post
    Can anyone think of a reason why a 160mm Lefty converted to 150mm wouldn't work on a 2017 Trek Remedy?

    The offset and axle-crown would be close enough; so I wouldn't anticipate any problems with the straight down tube, but this knock-block thing is pretty confusing.
    It should work, I don't think you'll need a knock block at all with the lefty being a dual crown.
    It will be just a bit shorter than a 150mm 29er, and I woudn't bother reducing its travel since the 29er wheel has clearance enough at full compression on the 160mm supermax.

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    Why is this thread no longer 'stickied' ?

  53. #753
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    Does anyone know where I can buy a white Castle tool? Every were I've looked online the are out of stock. LBS says Cdale is out and were suppose to have them back in stock the end of December but still cannot get me one.

  54. #754
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    Quote Originally Posted by Integrexman View Post
    Does anyone know where I can buy a white Castle tool? Every were I've looked online the are out of stock. LBS says Cdale is out and were suppose to have them back in stock the end of December but still cannot get me one.
    I just checked my cannondale inventory system - the white castle tool - KH103 - shows more than 25 in stock, ready to order.

  55. #755
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    I got an email from cannondaleexperts it is back in stock.

  56. #756
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    Lefty for a 2016 BOTE

    After some online research, I'm still a little confused about something I'm considering...I've got a BOTE 3 I'm thinking about upgrading with a Lefty at some point. What would be my options if I go this route? Would I be able to use a 29er Lefty PBR and modify it so that I could use it on the BOTE without affecting the geometry? I'd like to stick with 120mm travel. I realize I could buy a 27.5 lefty, but there are more used options if I expand my search to 29er forks...trying to figure out what's cheaper in the long run without adding a ton of hassle.

  57. #757
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    Quote Originally Posted by velcipede View Post
    After some online research, I'm still a little confused about something I'm considering...I've got a BOTE 3 I'm thinking about upgrading with a Lefty at some point. What would be my options if I go this route? Would I be able to use a 29er Lefty PBR and modify it so that I could use it on the BOTE without affecting the geometry? I'd like to stick with 120mm travel. I realize I could buy a 27.5 lefty, but there are more used options if I expand my search to 29er forks...trying to figure out what's cheaper in the long run without adding a ton of hassle.
    W/ the BOTE, you'd need to run a 29er fork anyway - as the oversized mid-fat tires are pretty much 29er diameter. Cannondale sells the Lefty as "29er/27.5+" all in the same unit.

  58. #758
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    The goo is normal, no worries there.

    I wouldn't get hung up on what should or shouldn't be in there. Remove them all, see if you like it, and as long as you don't bottom out several times a ride, it will be fine.

    Like it, but bottoming out a fair bit? Up the pressure till you don't, maybe 10 psi should be all you need to get away from that.

    Too soft, yeah, add the smaller one back, then play from there...
    What about Reducer #1 [the longer shaft reducer]? Can that be removed and up the air psi? And what oil [weight] and how much in open bath after emptying?
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    Last edited by guvna; 01-18-2017 at 10:02 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    W/ the BOTE, you'd need to run a 29er fork anyway - as the oversized mid-fat tires are pretty much 29er diameter. Cannondale sells the Lefty as "29er/27.5+" all in the same unit.
    That seems to make sense, but it looks like C'Dale is using a 27.5 fork for the Beast...

  60. #760
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    Quote Originally Posted by velcipede View Post
    That seems to make sense, but it looks like C'Dale is using a 27.5 fork for the Beast...
    I'd say a 29er will be ok too, but most important is you need a 2.0 fork to have room for the plus tire.

    but ah, there's no 29er 2.0 120mm I guess...

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    Damper shim stack

    Does anyone have a diagram of xlr120
    Shim stack or know where I can find one? I had a bit of mishap.

  62. #762
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    Quote Originally Posted by neumanno View Post
    In the process of rebuilding my lefty and had a few questions...

    Lots of digging and no definitive answer as to whether it is possible to increase the travel of a 2013 XLR 100 Hybrid to 110mm? Is it just as simple as removing 1 of the 3 spacers on the damper shaft?

    Not too concerned with tire contacting bottom of steerer tube area, with the damper removed and fork fully depressed there is still as least 10mm of clearance here... Really makes me wonder why those 3 spacers are needed when the fork will not physically travel far enough for my tire (2.4 Conti XKing) to hit the steerer tube (or even come close).
    Yes, it should. Obviously you're aware of opportunities for being sent out the front door when the fork bottoms out, so do let the air out and test it to be absolutely sure there is clearance.

    I tried this last night with a 100mm 26er PBR Lefty fitting to my 29er Flash. "Correct" installation should be 3 spacers, giving 70mm travel. I tried to stretch it to 80mm by removing 1 spacer but no dice. Iinitially it looked like there was 3-4mm clearance after letting the air out and pushing the bars down but pressing down a lot harder on the bars contacted the tyre, so I'm sticking with 3.
    Last edited by jimification; 02-02-2017 at 01:38 AM.

  63. #763
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    Quote Originally Posted by guvna View Post
    What about Reducer #1 [the longer shaft reducer]? Can that be removed and up the air psi? And what oil [weight] and how much in open bath after emptying?
    AFAIK yeah you can take that out. Craig (Mendon) usually recommends plastic wine corks in there to taste. More air volume (less corks) makes the fork behave more linearly (not ramp up so fast, so you use more of the travel more of the time)

    Thinking about it, I would expect a smaller air chamber to work better, since you can have lower pressure without bottoming out (as it ramps up quickly) so small bump performance should be better. However, in practice, I think most people prefer a larger air chamber with higher pressure (maybe because the fork becomes more "active"....)

  64. #764
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimification View Post
    Thinking about it, I would expect a smaller air chamber to work better, since you can have lower pressure without bottoming out (as it ramps up quickly) so small bump performance should be better. However, in practice, I think most people prefer a larger air chamber with higher pressure (maybe because the fork becomes more "active"....)
    Horses for courses. Some people like to get full travel more of the time. Gets you free bearing resets! FWIW I took out the small puck in my 100mm 2.0 but left the large one in. Fork feels nice and plush but it takes a real whack to bottom it out. Which is good, because I can supply that when I mess up a drop-off

  65. #765
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    I have a problem with the lock-out on a hybrid XLR. It's on a full sprint setup (Scalpel carbon 2), which I've bled and seems to be working properly. However the thumb lever can't be depressed without a TON of force. When doing so it feels like the fork is still partially locked. Also, the rebound adjust knob is VERY hard to turn and I'm wondering if it's jammed in there somehow. Turning the rebound knob a little seems to free up the lockout a little (so the fork will compress a bit) in places around the dial. Any ideas? thanks in advance.

  66. #766
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    Mis keyed at the fork end.

    Excessive back pressure in the damper.

    Dirty/corroded mating surfaces.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  67. #767
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Mis keyed at the fork end.

    Excessive back pressure in the damper.

    Dirty/corroded mating surfaces.
    Thanks Craig! It looks pretty clean in there and I'm pretty sure it's located properly, so maybe the damper is not right...the whole lot (rear shock too) is well overdue a service anyway so I'll send it in to the UK agent. Cheers!

  68. #768
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    I have a 2007 Cannondale Rush 5 with a DLR2 and I have never had a problem with it losing much air and rarely have to pump it up.

    I rode the bike about a month ago and the Lefty was fine. I hopped on the bike at the trail today and the Lefty completely bottomed out and seems like it has lost all of its air in a month which seems odd. When I get home I'm going to pump it back up but I don't have much hope that it is going to hold.

    Do you have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I don't think my LBS works on Lefty either :/

  69. #769
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac13 View Post
    I don't think my LBS works on Lefty either :/
    I can't recommend Craig Smith at Mendon Cyclesmith

    Cannondale, Professional and Trusted Lefty and Head Shock Service Performed by Craig Smith

    highly enough for Lefty Service and Upgrades - he is honest, fast (I've had him turn a fork around same-day, and it's never taken more than a week), reasonably priced, and understands these forks better than any other resource I've been able to find.

  70. #770
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    Please give advice. Now I am starting to buy pats for my 29er bike. I need a 140mm fork. In my location I find Supermax 160 мм 27.5. Will be normal to use it on 29er bike with 2 sm travel spacer?

  71. #771
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac13 View Post
    I have a 2007 Cannondale Rush 5 with a DLR2 and I have never had a problem with it losing much air and rarely have to pump it up.

    I rode the bike about a month ago and the Lefty was fine. I hopped on the bike at the trail today and the Lefty completely bottomed out and seems like it has lost all of its air in a month which seems odd. When I get home I'm going to pump it back up but I don't have much hope that it is going to hold.

    Do you have any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I don't think my LBS works on Lefty either :/
    Check the schrader valve core is screwed in properly and not leaking - might even take it out (with the fork inverted) and inspect the schrader core. If you have a 24mm wrench, check that the lower fork cap is tight.

  72. #772
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    Hi All,
    I just bought a 2016 FSI Carbon 1 with carbon lefty 2.0. I bought it on eBay and it was brand new, unused.
    When I first pushed down on the bars the fork bottomed with little effort. I then pumped it up to 150 psi. Pushed down again, same result.
    It occurred to me that maybe these bikes are shipped without oil in the fork? Any comments would be appreciated

  73. #773
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    Quote Originally Posted by srfay View Post
    Hi All,
    I just bought a 2016 FSI Carbon 1 with carbon lefty 2.0. I bought it on eBay and it was brand new, unused.
    When I first pushed down on the bars the fork bottomed with little effort. I then pumped it up to 150 psi. Pushed down again, same result.
    It occurred to me that maybe these bikes are shipped without oil in the fork? Any comments would be appreciated
    No, bikes come with the oil in the fork. Oils in the fork also wouldn't affect the spring rate if you can just push it all the way to bottoming out with little resistance. If the lockout still functions, then the oil is fine. It almost sounds like you might not be getting the shock pump fully on to the fork Schrader before your pumping? 150psi is way too much to have no effect. If you press the Schrader to let the air out doubt get a big blast, or not so much?

  74. #774
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    Will let you know in the morning , Thanks

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    It's almost as if the negative air chamber is taking all the air...

  76. #776
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    When i release the air from the Schrader valve I get a "pssst" sound. Not especially loud and the air is released very quickly probably two seconds.
    My shock pump has never been a problem. I pumped it up several times, released the air and same results every time.

  77. #777
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    Quote Originally Posted by srfay View Post
    I pumped it up several times, released the air and same results every time.
    Try this.

    Pump the fork up to 100psi or whatever.

    Take off the shock pump

    Re-connect the shock the pump.

    Check the pressure reading.

    If it still reads 100psi, then I reckon your fork has the classic symptoms of a busted solo air spring, where all the air flows in to the negative chamber, puling the lower up in to the outer. There is a recall replacement to get this fixed - you can get one by talking to your local friendly Cannondale dealer, but because you are not the first owner, you may have to jump through some hoops.

    If, after reconnecting the pump reads 0psi, then the air spring isn't getting any air, and there's an issue with the valve, your pump, or the air spring end cap that contains the valve, or something else. Try a different pump. If that doesn't solve the problem, you will probably need a specialist repair to fix.
    Last edited by Howards; 02-07-2017 at 01:14 AM.

  78. #778
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    Thanks for your feedback!

  79. #779
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    Quote Originally Posted by srfay View Post
    Thanks for your feedback!
    Just to ask - has your fork been 2Spring updated? Since it is a 2016, & you bought it through an ebay seller, it might not have had the upgrade. A local Cannondale dealer can perform the upgrade for you - the parts are free, and it is up to the shop if there's a labor charge. If it has the 2Spring from Cannondale (before the bike left the warehouse) it will have the 2Spring sticker on the fork. Dealers that perform the upgrades in the field are supposed to apply the sticker when they do the work as well.

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-lefty-image-1.jpg

  80. #780
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    stupid me.

    i just bought a lefty , should be a max 140 with pbr guts travel reduced to 90mm. so it measured only 55mm travel. i "tried" bearing reset by holding clamp one hand holding one the axle one hand. it increased only by 5mm. i dont know why i quickly determined the problem was not bearing reset. so i started trying to take it apart. i didnt get far.

    after learning there might be a travel reducer plastic piece in the air chamber, i wanted to take it off to sees if itd help. so i used a wrench on the scharder assembly . and the metal gave out. caved in. is this part supposed to spin off? now that its broke. although it still holds air good. i wanna get it replaced. any idea how to do it and how much the part might be?



    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20170207_194410.jpg

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20170207_194455.jpg

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20170207_194507.jpg
    Last edited by akacoke; 02-07-2017 at 10:39 PM.
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  81. #781
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    Your at the wrong end for travel reduction spacers. They clip on to the damper shaft, on the top of the fork.

    I'm guessing you didn't do the bearing reset correctly as you would have had to remove the top collar and split rings in order to perform the procedure. At that stage you would have seen the travel reduction spacers clipped onto the damper shaft.

    For what its worth, the damage you have shown in the picture isn't a show stopper by any means. As long as there is no air or oil leaking from it you''ll be fine. There is still plenty of flat surfaces left. Just use a socket next time instead of a spanner, less likely to slip and cause damage with a socket.
    The names have been changed to protect the innocent...

  82. #782
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    From Larry
    You find all service videos on vimeo!

    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  83. #783
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    thanks for the reply, yeah, i played around with those white travel reducer clips before i started messing with the bottom. i mistaken the air volme reducer to travel limiter when i read it online. thats why i was in there.

    for bearing reset, i did take off the top cap and the 2 stoppers that says "top" on them, but i did not realize how much force was needed to do the bearing reset. its still not set to full travel yet. ill have to do it once i have it on a bike with the help of front wheel . my axle to crown is only 460mm. whole fork measures 680mm. i read whole fork should be at 720 or 710mm.

    those schraders just come off not reverse treaded or anything right?


    Quote Originally Posted by Mac the Knife View Post
    Your at the wrong end for travel reduction spacers. They clip on to the damper shaft, on the top of the fork.

    I'm guessing you didn't do the bearing reset correctly as you would have had to remove the top collar and split rings in order to perform the procedure. At that stage you would have seen the travel reduction spacers clipped onto the damper shaft.

    For what its worth, the damage you have shown in the picture isn't a show stopper by any means. As long as there is no air or oil leaking from it you''ll be fine. There is still plenty of flat surfaces left. Just use a socket next time instead of a spanner, less likely to slip and cause damage with a socket.
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  84. #784
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    From Larry
    You find all service videos on vimeo!

    thanks those are what i need, i was looking on youtube. there werent anything
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  85. #785
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    Measurement method is a bad idea, regardless of whether it's "factory approved".

    Can't tell you the number of folks who have torn their fork apart, trying to get some mysterious extra few mm's, only to discover they measured wrong.

    Go by feel. Once it feels solid at the bottom of the stroke, it's done.

    Never measured one, always get a full reset, fork never ends up in a pile of pieces on the floor either...
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    Quote Originally Posted by akacoke View Post
    those schraders just come off not reverse treaded or anything right?
    Yep, standard thread, righty tighty / lefty loosey.. and for the love of god don't forget to let the air out first before you go at it..!
    The names have been changed to protect the innocent...

  87. #787
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    Quote Originally Posted by mac the knife View Post
    yep, standard thread, righty tighty / lefty loosey.. And for the love of god don't forget to let the air out first before you go at it..!
    yeah, i did. Lol
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    Is the 2Spring upgrade the sort of thing a home mechanic can do?

    My local shops want $60 and $75 for labor. It's not clear if this includes additional maintenance. I've done everything on my bike except headset bearing replacements and fork/shock internals, but I can't find a manual or a video on this procedure to gauge the difficulty.

  89. #789
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    Is the 2Spring upgrade the sort of thing a home mechanic can do?
    Yes - a home mechanic can do it. If you look for the 100hr service video, you can see the wave spring replacement step. Well, it's something like that, and you need the same tools to do it, i.e. castle tool (spendy) shaft clamps (not quite so spendy)

    That said, if you can get an authorised dealer to do it, who you trust, who for 135 bucks will do the 100hr service and do the wave spring update, I'd be tempted to pony up.

    Or find another dealer who is less mercurial

  90. #790
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    That's insane $ to pay for 10 minutes work. No other way to say it than armed robbery. Particularly when you factor in that they are already being paid to do the work by Cannondale, and given the parts free.

    Would I tell a home mechanic to do it? No. Seen way too many utterly botched jobs by guys emboldened by a couple youtube videos and a fervent belief that they can make do with the tools they have.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    Is the 2Spring upgrade the sort of thing a home mechanic can do?

    My local shops want $60 and $75 for labor. It's not clear if this includes additional maintenance. I've done everything on my bike except headset bearing replacements and fork/shock internals, but I can't find a manual or a video on this procedure to gauge the difficulty.
    Damn $75, I can do a 2 spring upgrade in 5 minutes now. I've probably replaced about 25 of them now. I've never charged for one. And I would only charge for one if it was going in a wave washer lefty that was in for service. As far as I'm concerned the 2016+ single spring air spring was just plain old defective and they all need to be replaced for free.

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    Hmm. Seems we've got a difference of opinion here. I suppose the larger question is whether it's worth doing my own Lefty maintenance at all. I'll buy the tools (looks like KH127 socket, a shaft clamp tool, and a castle slider) if it's economically sensible in the long run.

    Not to defeat someone's bread and butter, but does anyone feel like describing the procedure in more detail? The 100-hour video I have is for the Lefty 2.0 (I have a '15 1.0 Hybrid) and it's not obvious which steps are service that can be skipped.

  93. #793
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    Hmm. Seems we've got a difference of opinion here.
    Not really - for just the 2spring update I'd be unhappy if I had to pay that fee. I'm guessing you didn't buy your bike from this shop? But if they are doing other work, i.e. complete 100hr, damper service etc, then it's not so awful. I'm not saying it's right, and Cannondale do intend to get this mod done for customers for little spend, but in certain circumstances you won't have any choice. So when you don't have a friendly shop nearby...

    FWIW here in the UK it's hard to get a 2spring mod done unless you bought from a shop based dealer and you return to that dealer. I'll get mine done when they require 100hrs which I will pay for.

    You don't buy Cannondale because it's cheap, right?


    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    I suppose the larger question is whether it's worth doing my own Lefty maintenance at all. I'll buy the tools (looks like KH127 socket, a shaft clamp tool, and a castle slider) if it's economically sensible in the long run.
    Service a rockshox fork first The answer is no, it's not economically great, unless you are a good wrench already, never make any mistakes (or are happy to pay for them when you do), and have the time to do it properly.

    FWIW With the 2Spring update you should be able run Lefty for 100s of hours until the damper or upper seals go....just keep an eye on that lower leg.

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    That's good to hear. I actually picked this bike up used. The previous owner said the maintenance was current, but I've no idea what that means in the context of the Lefty. I'll have to ask. The thing works fine now; if I'm a ways out from that 100 hour service, maybe it'd be best just to leave it be until then.

  95. #795
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    That's good to hear. I actually picked this bike up used. The previous owner said the maintenance was current, but I've no idea what that means in the context of the Lefty. I'll have to ask. The thing works fine now; if I'm a ways out from that 100 hour service, maybe it'd be best just to leave it be until then.
    If you have the little "2" sticker on the fork, then its probably had the 2spring upgrade done. All the bikes coming from the distributors have had it added, and the shops are supposed to be adding the sticker to any done in house.

    And to echo the others - 20 minutes tops to do the work, assuming there isn't anything else going on that needs to be maintenanced. I don't charge the customer for labor, as cannondale is paying us for the time. Nothing has to be uninstalled off the bike - every once in a while I've needed to rotate a stem to clear the collar wrench.

    Oh, and the KH127 socket is really just a 36mm 6-point socket, that's been machined flater on the end to engage the 2.0 upper cleanly. I found a nice socket for $4 at a pawnshop, chucked it up in my drill press and used a file to flatten the end. Then I cut a thin guard out of some thin clear plastic I found around the shop to protect the fork uppers from the socket. I know they make a "special" tool, but I'm not paying even the dealer cost for something I already own. Plus, that 36mm I made can still be used for other work, while the alloy KH127 shouldn't be.

  96. #796
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    Lots of good notes. It's tempting to have a go with my own tools, but I think I'll just watch the people at the shop for this one. No sticker than I can see.

  97. #797
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    Hi All

    Two quick (I hope) queries regarding a 2006/7 Lefty Max 140 FFD.

    When inspecting/replacing the rebound shaft seal, should you secure the lower bearing races (taping) before removing the rebound shaft nut down inside the upper leg?

    Anyone had any luck with a UK source for after market foam to replace the volume compensating element that used to be included in KF225?
    Do I just aim for closed cell, oil resistant (Buna N/Nitrile) foam at the same thickness or are factors like compression rate critical here?

    Yes I know most have gone pbr with this fork but I kind of like keeping it original

    Thanks

  98. #798
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    Hi,

    just built up a new bike with my old Lefty from a 2013 Trigger (has been serviced last fall my Mendon). Went for the first longer (pavement only) ride last Sunday, everything was fine.
    Today I looked at the bike, the Lefty lost all the pressure. Never happened before. Pumped it up, looks fine so far.

    Any idea what went wrong?

    Thanks.

  99. #799
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    Broken wave spring. Unless it was updated to 2Spring, which based on date, I'm assuming it wasn't, in which case, only points out why they went to 2Spring...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  100. #800
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    Quote Originally Posted by pvajko View Post
    Today I looked at the bike, the Lefty lost all the pressure. Never happened before.
    Thanks to the awesome support from Craig (Mendon Cyclesmith) problem is solved: it was a defective valve core.

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