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  1. #301
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    i used a piece of PVC pipe to drive the steerer on my 03 rize with a lefty max, worked fine

  2. #302
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    latest lefty treatment

    Here is my latest lefty recipient. A trek sawyer with a lefty speed dlr 2, running a nuvinci hub, running 29er+ nards, with juicy 7 hydros.

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-sawyer-29-.jpg

  3. #303
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    Sorry double post
    Last edited by d@vid; 07-29-2013 at 04:47 AM.

  4. #304
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    Hi everyone

    I have a brand new 2013 lefty and it leaked quite a bit of oil through the schrader valve when I let some air out to set the sag, is this normal?

    Thanks
    David
    Last edited by d@vid; 07-29-2013 at 06:09 AM.

  5. #305
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    if it's just a drop of oil, that's ok

  6. #306
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    Guys I need your help and advice I'm thinking of replacing my Lefty MAX with FFD daper (I think it's 2008. model) with Rock Shox Sektor (150mm travel, Dual Position Coil 120-150 and Motion Control damper). But I'm really unsure abouth this movement, will this be upgrade or downgrade
    Oh I forgot, bike is Prophet and I'm going to use this headset reducer SIXPACK - Steuersatz Kingpin-R 1.5"-kingpinR

    P.S. Is this thread OK for such question or I should open new thread?

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mate View Post
    Guys I need your help and advice I'm thinking of replacing my Lefty MAX with FFD daper (I think it's 2008. model) with Rock Shox Sektor (150mm travel, Dual Position Coil 120-150 and Motion Control damper). But I'm really unsure abouth this movement, will this be upgrade or downgrade
    Oh I forgot, bike is Prophet and I'm going to use this headset reducer SIXPACK - Steuersatz Kingpin-R 1.5"-kingpinR

    P.S. Is this thread OK for such question or I should open new thread
    ?
    Yea I guess it's ok, but your limiting yourself in terms of audience. Only those surfing this thread or subscribed with notifications are going to see it....
    Your best bet is a whole new thread....

  8. #308
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    Thank you Tony, I opened new thread

  9. #309
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    Hey awesome instructional. Just redid the lefty max ffd

    I dont know if im an idiot or not. I'm filling it up with oil. which position do i want the rebound rod in? do i leave it in the position its in after tightening the rebound shaft on or pulled all the way up towards the top of the fork, or does it matter? The cannondale guide says around 155cc of oil but I'm getting nowhere near that volume in it. Any help would be appreciated!

  10. #310
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    Hi all

    Could anybody tell me if the NEW Lefty SUPERMAX PBR 130 would work on a Santa Cruz Tall Boy LTc?

    And, if so where would I find a Lefty SUPERMAX PBR 130?

    Regards

    Otto

  11. #311
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    Can anyone tell me if i can convert a LEFTY 29'ER PBR @90mm stock travel to 100mm for a 29er frame and even longer ,100mm+ travel for 26" use ?

    Many thanks

  12. #312
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    If it's NOT a 2013 hybrid one (so: If it's a 2010-2012 one) you can. Up to 110 mm for 29er or 140mm for 26er. There is a thread about how to do it: 2011 leftys: How to lengthen a 120 to 140?

  13. #313
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    Ok thank you - it's a PBR model from a 2012 frame , I'll check that link out.

  14. #314
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    Does anybody know where can I get a rebound part from old TPC damper (cannondale pn is KF217) or maybe advice how can I convert it from SPV assy. I think SPV is the same rebound part plus spv valve, but spv will not work without bladder, so when the spv unit is not too tall, this idea must work. Am I wrong? Missed something?

  15. #315
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    Lefty Hybrid Service Manual

    Hello!

    Because of no-reply in European MTB News, I try it in this Forum. To improve performance I want to clean and grease the needle bearing with better grease. So far so good.
    My challange is to demount a Hybrid Lefty XLR. It´s all done but the last step confuse me. I can´t pull away the lower tube from the upper. Is there any secret lock?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20131116_131249k.jpg  


  16. #316
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    Sorry if this question was already asked, but:
    what I need to change damper from dlr2 to pbr in aluminium speed lefty 110?
    pbr damper..., what else?..

  17. #317
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    Just use a wooden stick as a spacer ,place it where the oil cartridge was and hit it hard . the needle bearings will be shown . Also do not touch the needle bearing. I did so and now I have to wait for the new ones that I have ordered.

  18. #318
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    I had my LBS convert my '08 SL110 to 29er travel. I was selling my Scalpel 26er and moving the carbon fork to my Caffeine 29er. I bought a Scalpel 29er last year, so the Caffeine has been ridden once by a friend who is a novice rider. I haven't touched it until I went to ready the Caffeine for winter riding. It is super springy with very little damping. Adjusting rebound and air pressure has little impact; it still rides badly. Did the shop screw something up when they did the 80mm conversion? Thanks.

  19. #319
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-washers%5B1%5D.jpg

    Does anyone know where these 2 washers go in the 80 DLR damper.
    It's a mystery to me.

  20. #320
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    Lefty Max 130, 2008-ish. Quick cheap fix for leaky damper?

    Hey all,

    I'm wondering how hard it is to change out the seal o-rings in a red PBR damper. It it just taking off the nylon end caps from the damper taking off whatever is at the ends that keep the parts on there, pulling the caps out and sticking new o-rings in there?

    I'm finding oil in the bottom of my boot (on more than one of my Leftys) and it seems that damper oil is just leaking out the bottom of the damper. Plus, my PBR lockout isn't nearly as firm as it should be. I'm assuming it's because when the damper oil leaks out, it's sucking in air, which compresses... taking away the firmness of the lockout. Also, seems that the damper rebound knob doesn't do anything anymore.

    The LBS Cannondale Dealer doesn't really want to work on them. They just swap out the dampers and charge $150 or so to do it. I know Mendon will service it for $100 or so, and he does a good job. Seems to me that if it's just replacing the o-rings, I should be able to do that. Heck, I've rebuilt Audi engines, lapped valves, replaced seals on my Reba, etc. None of this looks like it would be very hard to do if I just had the right info.

    I'm also wondering what the exact sizes of the o-rings might be. I could buy the o-ring kit if I could find the right one, but they are probably just off the shelf o-rings, if I could just find the right specs. I'll bet the local Ace Hardware or auto parts store carries the right sizes for a buck each.

    Yeah, I could always send it back to Mendon Cyclesmith (and the guy runs a great shop, BTW) but I really wanna be more self sufficient with this stuff. I do everything else myself. Why not this?

    *edit*

    Upon further research, it turns out that the damper seals are Parker U-seals 1/2” U-cup #n4180-a80-8404-00500 ... as far as I can tell (but don't quote me on that). I don't know all the dimensions, but it jives that they are designed around a 1/2" shaft (frickin' Cannondale, using SAE sizes). Sounds like something I can get from an industrial supplier if I can find some more specifics. Problem is, I'll bet nobody will sell them to me unless I buy a hundred of them, or something.

    Looks kinda like this:

    Last edited by pimpbot; 12-25-2013 at 07:44 PM.

  21. #321
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    i´ve got a concerning question. the damper is leaking and i want to change the sealings. what tools i need and steps to perform to remove the upper oil cap from piston to change the inner seal?

    thanks guys

    it´s the white one in the center of the pic - DLR2 Catridge
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_1810%5B1%5D.jpg
    Last edited by designalized; 01-11-2014 at 03:25 PM.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner View Post
    Does anyone know where these 2 washers go in the 80 DLR damper.
    It's a mystery to me.
    looks like shims from the compression or rebound shim stack

  23. #323
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    pimpbot,
    my DC measurements of the seal:
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    A couple of those seals comes as a part of cannondale KH042 seal kit.
    If you want to change them/oil by your own just keep in mind that the seals, wich are the common cause of the leakage, do their job only when put under pressure. So, dont let the air getting into damper assembly when putting it together and make sure you install the pressure spring properly.

  24. #324
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    Hi, this page has a guideline to replace damper seals of the lefty PBR. Sorry because the page is in portuguese, but the Google Traductor can help!!!

    MISTER HEADSHOK: MANUTENÇÃO DO CARTUCHO HIDRAULICO LEFTY PBR

    The blog also has guideline for Fatty DL:

    MISTER HEADSHOK: MANUTENÇÃO DO CARTUCHO HIDRAULICO HEADSHOK FATTY DL 80

    and DLR:
    MISTER HEADSHOK: MANUTENÇÃO DO CARTUCHO HIDRÁULICO HEADSHOK FATTY DLR 80

    I hope that helps
    Last edited by Kndle; 01-14-2014 at 02:40 PM.

  25. #325
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    This Parker catalog has the exact size of the seal and its part number in the page 182-line 4
    http://www.parker.com/literature/Eng...stems/5370.pdf
    Last edited by Kndle; 01-14-2014 at 02:42 PM.

  26. #326
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    I have a problem
    After oil change and disassembly fork,I mixed shims stuck of rebaund and compression and after several attempts,I was not able to be put together as it was. (rebaund is too fast, and compresion i.... say strange
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    I have a problem
    After oil change and disassembly fork,I mixed shims stuck of rebaund and compression and after several attempts,I was not able to be put together as it was. (rebaund is too fast, and compresion i.... say strange
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?
    No, not without looking at the diagram... which I'm sure you've done already, RIGHT?

    That said, are you sure you got the damper cartridge oil bled properly? If there is any air in there at all, it won't lock out and will feel funny.

    BTW, I just emailed an industrial supply company about the Parker seals. See how they break down for a bunch. If they're cheap enough, maybe I'll buy 100, keep a few for myself and sell the rest for cheap.

  28. #328
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    Unfortunately I do not have a diagram for XLR/PBR. I have diagram in pdf and manual for DLR, with thicknes of shim stuck,...
    is it the same ?
    Bleeding is ok, I'm sure, but feeling is not
    Only if you turn rebaund through the slowest position, then felt like it was a little slow, but litl, if back only a half-circle, then as fast as the fastest position
    What oil recommended for this damper?

  29. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?
    may it´s the same like the 130mm PBR

    http://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf

  30. #330
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    Cannondale Service Centre - RLC Sport
    Take a look at this Australian site, it states tuning 2013 lefty's for more compliance, any ideas on how??

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by designalized View Post
    may it´s the same like the 130mm PBR

    http://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
    Maybe this is good, but I can not enlarge a quality that I saw the details. Do you have the original pdf of this document?

  32. #332
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    see the chart on page 16 "sHim stacKs From Piston oUt". the order is descriped from top to bottom.

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by designalized View Post
    see the chart on page 16 "sHim stacKs From Piston oUt". the order is descriped from top to bottom.


    Thanks man

  34. #334
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    Gotta' love the shop technique in the pics half-way down this page:

    Precio del mantenimiento de horquillas headshok. Destripando fatty.Manual incluido | Página 2 | ForoMTB.com

    ... or, perhaps not...

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Hey all,

    I'm wondering how hard it is to change out the seal o-rings in a red PBR damper. It it just taking off the nylon end caps from the damper taking off whatever is at the ends that keep the parts on there, pulling the caps out and sticking new o-rings in there?

    I'm finding oil in the bottom of my boot (on more than one of my Leftys) and it seems that damper oil is just leaking out the bottom of the damper. Plus, my PBR lockout isn't nearly as firm as it should be. I'm assuming it's because when the damper oil leaks out, it's sucking in air, which compresses... taking away the firmness of the lockout. Also, seems that the damper rebound knob doesn't do anything anymore.

    The LBS Cannondale Dealer doesn't really want to work on them. They just swap out the dampers and charge $150 or so to do it. I know Mendon will service it for $100 or so, and he does a good job. Seems to me that if it's just replacing the o-rings, I should be able to do that. Heck, I've rebuilt Audi engines, lapped valves, replaced seals on my Reba, etc. None of this looks like it would be very hard to do if I just had the right info.

    I'm also wondering what the exact sizes of the o-rings might be. I could buy the o-ring kit if I could find the right one, but they are probably just off the shelf o-rings, if I could just find the right specs. I'll bet the local Ace Hardware or auto parts store carries the right sizes for a buck each.

    Yeah, I could always send it back to Mendon Cyclesmith (and the guy runs a great shop, BTW) but I really wanna be more self sufficient with this stuff. I do everything else myself. Why not this?

    *edit*

    Upon further research, it turns out that the damper seals are Parker U-seals 1/2” U-cup #n4180-a80-8404-00500 ... as far as I can tell (but don't quote me on that). I don't know all the dimensions, but it jives that they are designed around a 1/2" shaft (frickin' Cannondale, using SAE sizes). Sounds like something I can get from an industrial supplier if I can find some more specifics. Problem is, I'll bet nobody will sell them to me unless I buy a hundred of them, or something.

    Looks kinda like this:

    Hi,
    The closest thing I found was this:
    K95 012 7 U Ring 12 5 x 20 x 3 5 HO 4 NBR90 Rod Piston Seal uring Upto 150BAR | eBay
    maybe it work.

  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by betopro View Post
    Huh... interesting. 12.5mm comes in at 0.492~ inches... a hair under 0.5 inches. Probably close enough to work. For $16 for six seals landed ($10 for two, $16 for six... may as well stock up for all of my Leftys), I might give it a try. I hope they combine shipping. If so, I'll order a bunch for all of my forks.

    BTW, I changed my fork oil. It seems to be leaking less with new oil. I probably flushed a lot of wear particles out of there. The oil coming out looked awfully grey.

    That said, my Lefty Max on my SS could probably use a trip to Mendon. I wonder if he can get it back to me by Sea Otter?

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    Gotta' love the shop technique in the pics half-way down this page:

    Precio del mantenimiento de horquillas headshok. Destripando fatty.Manual incluido | Página 2 | ForoMTB.com

    ... or, perhaps not...
    Yikes!

    I just clicked the link and saw the horror pics. My Spanish is pretty weaksauce, but.... did he use f'ing vice grips to remove the damper cartridge? ... and use a scratch awl to unscrew the damper cartridge end caps?

    Okay, there is a time and a place to do hack work.... like when you're stranded 20 miles from the trailhead, or on some beater cheapo piece of gear you plan to replace anyway... but on a sweet carbon Lefty fork? Uh, no!

    Granted, one of my Lefty forks has a the castle on the top kinda chewed up from removing it so many times and letting the tool slip a few too many times, but I would never resort to vice grips unless it was going directly into the trash can.

    BTW, the Super Castle Tool.... who's brilliant idea was it to paint it or powder coat it? I have paint flakes inside all of my forks from that stupid thing. They should have just plated it, or use a black oxide coating.

  38. #338
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    I think this would be the correct place for this lefty question if anyone can help.

    I have a 2008 F3 Caffeine hardtail and i want to swap out the headshok for a lefty. Would any lefty year fit this steertube? Meaning if i got a new or newer 2014 or 2013 lefty is it plug and play for my frame? I know that the f2 came with the lefty so i figured it was the same frame just with that fork. Any help is greatly appreciated!

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by csm929 View Post
    I think this would be the correct place for this lefty question if anyone can help.

    I have a 2008 F3 Caffeine hardtail and i want to swap out the headshok for a lefty. Would any lefty year fit this steertube? Meaning if i got a new or newer 2014 or 2013 lefty is it plug and play for my frame? I know that the f2 came with the lefty so i figured it was the same frame just with that fork. Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Yeah, I don't see why not. The Caffeine came with a Lefty in some versions. As long as you don't have an XL size frame, it should be fine. If you have an XL frame, you'll need the XL version of the Lefty to fit the taller head tube.

  40. #340
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    New question here. Lefty 29 pbr 90 - Can i use with a 26" wheel

    The title says it all is there anything stopping me from using my 26" wheels with this fork.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by langtounboy View Post
    The title says it all is there anything stopping me from using my 26" wheels with this fork.
    maybe the crownheight - lefty 29" 90mm is the same fork as a lefty 26" ultra 120mm (29er Conversion with travelreducers and air volume reducer)

    the question is how much travel you would like to have and what frame you would use

  42. #342
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    Hi, what oil recommended( thickness and manufacturer) for lefty speed ?

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    Hi, what oil recommended( thickness and manufacturer) for lefty speed ?

    One of the manuals I saw online recommended Golden Spectro 85/150 (2.5 WT) Fork Fluid.

  44. #344
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    I wanted to give a big thumbs up to MendonCycleSmith. I sent my fork in for work and it arrived to his shop yesterday and it's already back on it's way to me. Now thats service

  45. #345
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    I have an issue with the rebound adjustment on my 2013 Lefty XLR hybrid. After disassembling the fork and putting it back together, now the top part is compressing the rebound knob as I screw it on. Even by tightening it just by hand, the rebound knob won't move at all. Any idea where I could have it wrong?

  46. #346
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    Just wanted to give a shout out to MendonCycleSmith and the help he gave me getting my new 2014 lefty pbr. I have an 08 caffeine hardtail in matte black that i love but the headshok was blown again and i wanted to move up in the fork world. Craig took the time to answer my 100 questions regarding the benefits of the fork, what i needed, and how to get it. He supplied me with a beautiful fork and also built me a front wheel for the fork that came out absolutely perfect. He really is the true guru of these forks. Thanks again Craig!!

  47. #347
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    Does anyone have a DLR cartridge for a 2004 lefty ?

  48. #348
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    Can anyone help or give some ideas? I recently did a bearing reset (done this several times before with good results) and now the fork won't lock out. Fork is 2012 xlr with 100mm travel. I had the LBS bleed the remote, but no change. the botton does extend and compress as before, but there is 100% no LO. Will this require a new damper?

  49. #349
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    I just changed the oil in my damper for the first time. (90mm 2012 29er PBR) The fork felt fantastic for the first few hours then after about 7 hours the lockout stopped working and the fork started to feel more and more clunky. Then I find oil in the boot...

    I opened it up and I'm pretty sure oil was leaking through the bottom inner seal around the damper shaft. When I changed the oil I had fitted a new seal and there are no scratches on the damper shaft. If that's the case, how / why does the oil leak out from there? I think maybe I had some air in there, would that cause it? It's also possible I had fitted that seal the wrong way up, could that make a difference?

    Also, I think I dislodged the internal top octagonal washer that holds the 4 shim plates whilst refitting the damper. I gave it a nudge and it dropped right back into place but should that part be secured somehow?

    thanks for any info!

  50. #350
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    Brown PBR damper?

    So, I have a 2008-ish Lefty Max PBR I got off craigslist for way too cheap. I was noticing that it rides kinda low, A to C. I should probably actually measure it. I suspect it might be a 120mm fork. I put spacers in there to limit the travel for 29er use, but that doesn't change the A to C. The bearings have been recently reset as well, as best as I can do.

    So the odd thing is, this fork has a brown damper inside. Brown? I thought they had green ones for the Speed series Leftys, and Red for the Max series. I tried trimming 10mm off of the tube at the bottom of the damper, trying to get a bit more travel out of it, but that only resulted in the fork clunking at top out... even with the bearings reset as much as I can stand. I ended up putting the piece I cut off back in there. The tube in there was long... like 60mm, so I just figured it was a 120mm fork.

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