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  1. #101
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    It does come to a complete stop. It's just that as/when I tighten it towards the end, it creaks a bit then eventually stops. It doesn't creak at all with the first 3/4 of the tightening...only at the VERY end. Threads look good, and I haven't seen any metal shavings.

  2. #102
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    OK, you did not say that in your original message. If the bolt is feeling resistance as you tighten it, then maybe it wasn't quite situated on the spindle completely to start with and it is being pulled on by the tightening of the bolt. If the bolt is coming loose by the end of your right, you may not be tightening it enough. Check the torque with a wrench if you have one, or just try a bit harder to tighten it up next time. Hopefully, it should stay tight for you.

  3. #103
    FIRENZE rulez !!
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    Boot replacement from eighty aid

    boot change - YouTube

  4. #104
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    2004 Lefty Max TPC 130mm repairs

    Hello all. I have a Lefty Max TPC 130mm off a 2004 Jekyll 1000 and want to replace the rebound shaft seal. Am I correct in thinking that I dont have to pull the inner and outer legs apart from each other, therefore avoiding having to wrestle the bearings back in? Also, on my last ride I went to adjust the rebound adjuster and it no longer has its stop positions at each end of the adjustment range. The adjuster knob is turning the rebound shaft as I can alter the rebound speed, but the knob can turn infinitely in either direction and does not stop at the maximum and minimum adjustment points. It definitely worked properly a couple of days before. Does anyone know what may be causing this?

    Thankyou for your help

  5. #105
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    Does anyone know the weight of the 2010 80mm headshok? There seem to be no specific fatty sticky so I had to ask here, sorry!

  6. #106
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    2007 Lefty Max Titanium, TPC + , SPV 130mm

    Hey guys just a question on my 2007 Lefty Ti, TPC max SPV. I am looking for a Firm titanium spring.

    I went to my dealer and he got me a 140mm exfirm steel spring with 5 wt oil vs 2.5 wt which is called for in my manual because thats what Cannondale sent him, they said they dont have any parts for the Lefty. I measured the spring, its 245mm vice 241mm which is called for in my manual for the extra firm steel spring, designated for the 130mm travel fork.

    My problem is can I use the 140mm lefty max spring in my 130 mm travel lefty by shortening the preload spacer to keep the overall total spring length and preload max measurement....


    my dealer says that the fork was made by manitou and they went out of business so Cannondale cannot get the parts any more...otherwise he would have sent me the firm ti spring.

    what can I do ? Im just getting too much static sag with the stock medium ti spring the bike came with.

    Thanks

    Patrick, Montana

  7. #107
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    Lefty 110SL Removal

    I have a 2009 Rush Carbon. Recently the Lefty 110 SL started to wobble side to side at the end of a ride. I'm planning to remove the shock and send it to Mendon for a rebuild, but I'm unsure how to safely remove it from the frame.

    I've found several references and great instructions, but all of them show the process of removing the steerer tube after removing the stem. Mine has an integrated stem so I son't see how that would work. Not sure if I need a specialized tool for this setup or if it is something simple I'm not seeing.

    I don't want to damage the carbon in any way so any tips or techniques would be greatly appreciated!
    DIPLOMACY: It's the art of letting others have my way...

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertDoc View Post
    I have a 2009 Rush Carbon. Recently the Lefty 110 SL started to wobble side to side at the end of a ride. I'm planning to remove the shock and send it to Mendon for a rebuild, but I'm unsure how to safely remove it from the frame.

    I've found several references and great instructions, but all of them show the process of removing the steerer tube after removing the stem. Mine has an integrated stem so I son't see how that would work. Not sure if I need a specialized tool for this setup or if it is something simple I'm not seeing.

    I don't want to damage the carbon in any way so any tips or techniques would be greatly appreciated!
    I'm guessing you'll probably need the KT020 tool to safely remove the steerer
    eighty-aid has some really good do it yourself guides here:
    Lefty

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by atonyc68 View Post
    I'm guessing you'll probably need the KT020 tool to safely remove the steerer
    Coincidentally, there's some KT020s on the bay right now: Cannondale Lefty Install Steerer Tool - KT020 | eBay

  10. #110
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    Quote Originally Posted by jaknudsen View Post
    Coincidentally, there's some KT020s on the bay right now: Cannondale Lefty Install Steerer Tool - KT020 | eBay
    Thanks for the notes, but this system is different than mine. This method requires removing the stem, then tpping out the steerer. My rig has the OPI (One Piece Integration) Stem/Steerer which doesn't allow stem removal. I'm guessing it has to be tapped out from the bottom, but there is no lip on the steerer to really work with.

    I'm wondering if the same tool is used, but the OPI is tapped out from the bottom rather than from the top. Has anyone done this with the OPI Stem/Steerer?
    DIPLOMACY: It's the art of letting others have my way...

  11. #111
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    The Eight-aid link shows two menu options for removal and installation of the OPI.

    Did you look at them, or just the top link?

  12. #112
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    Brilliant!

    Found the expanded menu with the OPI window - Indeed the K2020 is used to tap out the steerer from the bottom. I'm ordering one now!

    Thanks for the input everyone. I'm bummed to be off the bike during prime season. This should get things moving!
    DIPLOMACY: It's the art of letting others have my way...

  13. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by DesertDoc View Post
    Brilliant!

    Found the expanded menu with the OPI window - Indeed the K2020 is used to tap out the steerer from the bottom. I'm ordering one now!

    Thanks for the input everyone. I'm bummed to be off the bike during prime season. This should get things moving!
    If you have an OPI stem do you still need that tool??
    it seems from the eighty -aid guide, that all you do to remove the stem is to just unscrew it
    The older stems only require the KT020 tool?

  14. #114
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    Im looking for a stock preload spacer for my lefty max Ti TPC 130mm if anyone has one or knows where I can get one.

    Thanks!

    Patrick

  15. #115
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    Thanks for all of the help everyone. I managed to get the unit removed and it is at the shop. Looks like bearing migration - A few parts and a few days and we're back in business. Thanks to this thread I now know how to perform my own bearing resets so this should not be an issue again. Thanks again!
    DIPLOMACY: It's the art of letting others have my way...

  16. #116
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    Cartridge oil seal

    What is the consequence of the cartridge seal not being installed? Item 6 in the attached image.

    Installing the cartridge without this seal it still holds air...

    This size o-ring is hard to find without buying the whole seal kit. I change my bearing grease regulary and having seveal of these seals on hand would be nice.

    Anyone know of a source for 18.77mm x 1.78mm o-rings?

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-dlr2.jpg

  17. #117
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    Charkear, the only purpose of that o-ring is to hold the washer (item #38) in place during installation. They fall apart very easily so I don't use it on mine.

  18. #118
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    Thanks, it looked superfluous. It is nice to have something hold this metal ring on. When I installed the cartridge the ring got out of place and was making a grinding sound on the upper for tube.. No damage done though.

  19. #119
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    Lockout doesnt lock

    Hi guys,
    need advice whats wrong with my lefty. Got 2010 carbon dlr sl and when in lockout mode there is a little play till it hits the lock when I push quikly but when I push slowly it goes down like there is no lockout. What can cause it? thanks

  20. #120
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    You probably need a service. Your O-rings cant hold hold the pressure properly, so if you do it yourself, I would quess a new O-ring kit.

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rabbitized View Post
    You probably need a service. Your O-rings cant hold hold the pressure properly, so if you do it yourself, I would quess a new O-ring kit.
    Yes, it worked for my speed dlr 110,had the same problem.

  22. #122
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    Lefty Speed Carbon XLR and little play

    Hi all,
    I've a Lefty Speed Carbon XLR 2011.
    Recently I've noticed of a little play when the fork is not locked out: if I push applying very little force, the fork doesn't begin to "work" (compress air) immediatly but there is a little "gap", like if the damper is not pushing immediatly on air chamber.
    If I push with more force, the fork begins to work normally, and it works well. The air pressure is ok and is mantained correctly.
    When the lockout is triggered, the fork seems to mantain this play, but is very little (for now), like 1mm or less.
    One month ago removing air and re-inflating the fork immediatly eliminates this problem. Now this "workaround" won't work anymore.

    Is this behaviour normal ? What could be the cause ? What could I try to check ?

    Thanks

  23. #123
    Cannondale freak
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    Thaks for help, hope that is all thats wrong.
    Quote Originally Posted by screamingeagle3 View Post
    Yes, it worked for my speed dlr 110,had the same problem.

  24. #124
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    White "blk" on bottom of lefty max 140mm

    Question. I have a Lefty MAX 140 and have recently realized that the letters BLK are written on the bottom of the Lefty (on wheel hub). I am assuming this means black spring?

    Also there is no valve on the bottom of my MAX 140....does that mean it's a TPC? The spring chart is different with the SPV vs. TPC.

    Trying to dial it in for a 190 lbs 6'1" WW......right now the front end drops quick on my when braking.

    Any tips?

  25. #125
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    if there is no blue knob on the bottom then you have a FFD not a TPC, the spring chart for the FFD and TPC are the same, think the black spring is good for your weight.

    when was the fork last rebuilt, maybe your quad seal is starting to leak, look under the boot and see if the grease is starting to breakdown.

    you can dial up the preload of your spring too.

    I have a TPC and it gets "softer" when it needs servicing.

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