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  1. #401
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    I have a 2001 Lefty 100DLR which I have been using since last September. Finally got round to taking out the cartridge to replace the oil seals. The cartridge is in good condition and has not been abused by botched repairs. I have done the top and bottom seals on three headshoks and they were not as good condition.

    There is a new old stock cartridge on eBay at the moment but I suspect it is from a 2000 model. There does appear to be a subtle difference between the two years given there is a difference in the length specified to reset the bearings.

    I can only find one drawing of the cartridge and mine appears to have some additional rubber o rings above the lock out mechanism.

    Does anyone know if the earlier damper will fit in the older fork. The other query I have is that the new damper is a soft and mine is a hard. Is it only the coil spring that differs.

    Given the good condition of my damper I may never need the new damper but spares are getting scarse.

  2. #402
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    If your current fork has a threaded collar at the top end, it's the newer style damper. If it's smooth to the top and you have to pry the black plastic plug out to get at the damper, it's the old style.

    If the damper on eBay has threads on the outside edge of the black cap at the top end, it is the older style damper and will not fit in your gen 2 fork.

    If it's smooth edged, it's a gen 2 that's mislabeled, and will work fine.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  3. #403
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    Hi thanks for confirming that mine is a second generation that ties up with the year of the bike frame. To be fair to the seller I did ask and they did not know which generation it was. It has been listed as HD202/GRN. I have asked them to check if the top cap is threaded. They are a shop and they appear to be having a clear out as they have 7 of these for sale.

    Is there any diffence in the oil part of the damper between the soft, medium and hard. Or is the difference purely in the spring?

    Cheers
    Bruce
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  4. #404
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    Quote Originally Posted by The-Malcolm View Post
    Is there any diffence in the oil part of the damper between the soft, medium and hard. Or is the difference purely in the spring?
    No problem, and yes, the spring is the only difference.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    No problem, and yes, the spring is the only difference.
    Thanks the seller confirmed the top cap is threaded. But they did have all 4 springs (including the extra soft) available which are on their way to Scotland.

    I have just replaced the outer races, one of the inner races and needles. I managed to source the ones that were badly pitted or ridged but I failed to source the replacements for the ok races.

    The fork was working ok prior to being stripped down but it is certainly benefiting from the new races. The damage at the top of the races looked like from the fork sitting wet as you can see where the needles have stopped on the race.

    Is it ok to turn the races over and use the other side. The races don't appear to be surfaced. I am assuming they are just a high grade piece of steel.

    I maybe faced with this if I am not able to source replacements in the future. But hopefully with frequent greasing this will not be for a while.

    Bruce

  6. #406
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    The seller confirmed the damper has a threaded top so I have given that a miss. They had a set of three return spring and the extra soft spring so I have ordered them and that will let me fine tune the lefty.

    Is it an option to turn the races over. I have replaced all of the outer races ,one of the inner races and the needles. They were quite badly pitted at the top from what looked like corrosion from sitting wet.The remaining races were not available from any of the suppliers I tried, but they were reasonably ok condition. I have the fork back together and it is operating smoothly enough.
    I was just wondering for future note if they can be turned over if I can't source replacements. The back face of the inner races were all in good condition. Hopefully if I keep greasing them they will last another 14 years on the assumption that these are the original races.

  7. #407
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    Yep, backsides of the races are AOK if they are in better shape.

    Just a side note, that gen fork? Doubt you'll be able to tell the slightest difference between springs.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  8. #408
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    It is a second gen. What made me think about changing the spring was that I have been using a Headshok DL 80 with a medium spring in it while I have the lefty in bits. The ride on the headshok felt more absorbant on the trails I know quite well. The air pressure was down a bit from what I normally set it at when I was last out in the headshok and that would also have contributed to the softer ride. I will try the lefty with a lower air pressure as well when it is back together. It will be few more days before I get the damper back together as I need to get a shot of a fly press to change the top seals. I will let you know how I get on once the springs arrive.

  9. #409
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    All they control is top out absorption.

    Too soft a spring and too high a pressure? It'll top out with a notable thunk.

    Any other scenario will be pretty much moot......

    Speed DLR2 series forks? They have a much stronger, longer spring, and those do have some negative spring properties.

    Likely you're feeling a difference e in bearing preload....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  10. #410
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    Below are images of the races that I have replaced. As I say I replaced one of the inners and all four of the outer races. I was not aware there was an issue with the races until I stripped the fork down. I was stripping it down to deal with the oil seals. I'm sure the pitting will have been providing some unwanted friction. The needles were not too bad but they were a bit dull looking so I replaced them for good measure. The fork is running smooth now.

    I take you point on not being able to feel the effect of the return springs. They were not expensive so I am happy to experiment with them.


    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-inner-race.jpgThe official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-outer-races.jpg

  11. #411
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    Can someone tell me if its possible to use a lefty fork without the damping cartridge inside..or somehow take the damping feature out and if this would save any weight ? or course...replaced by some kind of plastic spacer to make up for the volume taken off?

  12. #412
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    First answer, no.

    Second, I suppose, if someone wanted to spend a whole bunch of time and effort and $, you could likely make a "dummy", but then that begs the question, why??
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  13. #413
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    What do you mean about the dummy? I found somewhere in this forum someone mentioning the possibility to remove the damping and that would save about 200g.

  14. #414
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    A plug, a space filler, a non functional part.

    Why on earth would you want to remove the damping from a suspension fork? There's a reason it's there, and it's not just to add weight.

    Are you saying leave the spring, but lose the damper, or, make it a rigid Lefty?

    The former? Buy a fat bike if you want undamped suspension.

    The latter? Pour salty water into it and wait a few days, then remove the guts, voila, rigid Lefty.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  15. #415
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    strange click noise

    hi everyone I would be very grateful if someone could help me. I have a 2014 pbr 29er 100mm travel Cannondale lefty hybrid fitted to my 2014 scalpel 29er. recently my lefty it has started making a click noise (which can be felt at the handlebars) when compressed especially when standing up on the peddles going up hill rocking the bike from side to side. I have done a manual reset and checked the tightness of the bolts up front and everything seems to be as it should be. does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the noise?

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    If your current fork has a threaded collar at the top end, it's the newer style damper. If it's smooth to the top and you have to pry the black plastic plug out to get at the damper, it's the old style.

    If the damper on eBay has threads on the outside edge of the black cap at the top end, it is the older style damper and will not fit in your gen 2 fork.

    If it's smooth edged, it's a gen 2 that's mislabeled, and will work fine.
    Hi I doubt you will be able answer this. I was considering buying one of the first generation dampers and changing the black cap to a second generation. I have taken the black cap off and replaced with a hydraulic press in the past when changing the oil seals on a DL80 damper. It would allow me to replace the another damper that has been abused by the previous owner and has a scored shaft. Whats your thoughts?

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    All they control is top out absorption.

    Too soft a spring and too high a pressure? It'll top out with a notable thunk.

    Any other scenario will be pretty much moot......

    Speed DLR2 series forks? They have a much stronger, longer spring, and those do have some negative spring properties.

    Likely you're feeling a difference e in bearing preload....
    I have measured the pre-load with the new bearing races and needles. The size of the races are the same as were previously fitted but that is not to say they were correct. Using a spring balance to measure the effort to compress the fork without the damper. Before lubrication I was getting a reading of 8lb and with lubrication 6lb. Is this still too much preload.

    I am struggling to get thinner races to create some more clearance. I measured the headshok I have been using while the lefty is in bits and it measures 4lb. So this probably explains why I felt the headshok was a softer ride.

  18. #418
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    Removing the top "cap" isn't the correct way to service the damper, andI don't recommend ever doing that. That said, everything is well out of warranty, and if you don't mind not knowing how secure things are in the long term, go for it.

    I wouldn't do that though, just source the right parts and keep your face and teeth in tact.

    Preload? Never measured it that way, all based on feel, so I can't say really. If it felt softer, likely the lighter preload your seeing is playing a part, yes.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post

    I wouldn't do that though, just source the right parts and keep your face and teeth in tact.

    Preload? Never measured it that way, all based on feel, so I can't say really. If it felt softer, likely the lighter preload your seeing is playing a part, yes.
    Points noted about there being an element of risk of failure with this. I would prefer to use the corrects parts but there does not appear to be any replacement dampers available and I am keen to keep them going.

    In one of your previous I thought I read that the pre-load should be 4lb and that's why I was measuring it. I appreciate it is probably something that you know when it feels right with your experience.

  20. #420
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    Anybody have a link or instructions on checking the oil level and rebuild for a 2013 Lefty PBR?
    Thanks in advance
    "There is a road--no simple highway"

  21. #421
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    the only info I have found are some videos here: https://vimeo.com/user8293141/videos

    and
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BKJjQkOov1s

    Quote Originally Posted by tricofisher View Post
    Anybody have a link or instructions on checking the oil level and rebuild for a 2013 Lefty PBR?
    Thanks in advance

  22. #422
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    Hello, hoping I can get some guidance/help.

    I have a 2008 Lefty DLR2 on my 29er 2. I never did any maintenance...until this week ! I cleaned and re-oiled the air filer, relubed the races, and did a bearing reset (they were fine). Honestly, the fork seemed to work just fine before, but my guilt over neglecting it finally overcame me.

    In any case, both before this week, and especially now, I have to put way more air in than the maintenance chart suggests. Currently, I have 180psi in there...and it STILL feels a bit soft to me, with sag at the high end of the range. I am 195lbs.

    Second, while letting air out to do the maintenance, the fork "slimed" me. I was standing over it, and couldn't see where it came from, but it blasted my finger and coated the disc brake mount. I thought it came out of the shrader valve and bounced up...but honestly am not sure.

    Is something broken internally ? It feels much softer now, especially the initial travel. Suggestions, thoughts welcome.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCinFL View Post
    Suggestions, thoughts welcome.
    The oil that came out is the air chamber lube. Best practice when releasing air is to flip it upside down and let the oil flow away from the valve for a few minutes.

    No damage, no harm, you just got a facial.....

    You reset the bearings, likely they were pretty migrated considering you'd never done it. As such, the fork would have been far more progressive feeling, as well as short on travel.

    You now have the fork, working as it was originally intended, both inspiring rate and travel. Likely feels very different than what you had before.

    The updated version of the air spring no longer uses air chamber oil, so is a cleaner air release, feels a bit nicer too.

    Speaking of facials, this was a week or so ago, bet I beat yours.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-unnamed-8.jpg  

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  24. #424
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    Mendon,
    Ha ! Brother, you got nailed ! Thanks...

    I had one more question. In my DLR2 manual (1200025), on page 21 it says when doing a bearing reset, the top-to-bottom measurement should be 695mm. After resetting, I came up way short...but then I noticed/remembered my 29er spacers. After adding in the spacer length, my measurement came in at 698mm...almost perfect.

    My question is: should I have added the spacer distance ? The manual makes no mention of of 29er vs anything else. I am worried I still have more bearing adjustment to go, though the sound was a resounding "thunk", and coupled with the measurement, seemed like I had it right.

  25. #425
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    I've had folks pull their forks apart, trying to get 3 more mm's.....

    I never use the measurement method, or recommend it, for this reason.

    You're going to be doing it again, who cares if you're missing a mm or two?

    You mention sound, I always suggest that as a good indicator, if paid attention to from the beginning. But also, watching the top cap where the split rings go. It should end up ~ an inch down inside at full extension during reset.

    The spacers are just along for the ride on the damper shaft, as it's installed into the lower leg, they have no impact on length at full reset, installed or not.

    And yeah, I got creamed. So lucky I wear glasses, or that day would have ended with a trip the ER, my glasses were totally slimed....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  26. #426
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    Does anyone know what size detent ball goes into the red damper adjustment knob in a 2007 Lefty Max 140? Lost them a little while ago and would like to have the ability to click in a setting and have it stay that way. Ive searched the forums and online but can't find the actual size (only comments that they exist and not to lose them!)...sorry if I missed these details somewhere else!

  27. #427
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    I have a 2013 Lefty Hybrid 90mm Carbon, looking in the service manual it says:
    Damper Service:
    Air spring/Damping Cartridge Inspection
    100 hour or every year

    Full Service (Telescope Rebuild + Damper service)
    200 hours

    Can somebody tell me please that this kit (KH085 - Solo Air Piston Kit Lefty Ultra 29er 90mm) is for the Full Service or also for Damper Service ? And if it's for Full service than on Damper service is there another kit required ?
    Is there any other kit required for this 2 service operations ?
    Thanks!

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    I have a 2013 Lefty Hybrid 90mm Carbon, looking in the service manual it says:
    Damper Service:
    Air spring/Damping Cartridge Inspection
    100 hour or every year

    Full Service (Telescope Rebuild + Damper service)
    200 hours

    Can somebody tell me please that this kit (KH085 - Solo Air Piston Kit Lefty Ultra 29er 90mm) is for the Full Service or also for Damper Service ? And if it's for Full service than on Damper service is there another kit required ?
    Is there any other kit required for this 2 service operations ?
    Thanks!
    Nobody doesn't know what kits are required for servicing a 2013 Lefty ?

  29. #429
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    PM sent.

  30. #430
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    What is the current longest travel Lefty for 26" tires? Normal tires, not fatbike tires. LOL

    Andy B.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    What is the current longest travel Lefty for 26" tires? Normal tires, not fatbike tires. LOL

    Andy B.

    New, out of a box, ordered from Cannondale? 100.

    They can be made to work for up to 140 "new in a box", but a new fork would have to go to the Factory tech room and get rebuilt to do so.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    New, out of a box, ordered from Cannondale? 100.

    They can be made to work for up to 140 "new in a box", but a new fork would have to go to the Factory tech room and get rebuilt to do so.....
    That stinks. I thought there was a 160mm version at some point?
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  33. #433
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    That stinks. I thought there was a 160mm version at some point?
    Hmm, you may be right. I don;t sell the bike brand, nor do I have an outside rep that stops by, nor do I pursue constant info updates.

    Now that you mention it, I do recall hearing something about more than 140. I'd suggest calling Cannondale directly for the most accurate answer on when and if.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  34. #434
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    Rebound dial on Ultra 120 XLR not working

    I have a 2012 Lefty Ultra XLR 120. Recently I noticed that the rebound dial had become almost impossible to turn. Loosening the outer collar allows the rebound dial to turn freely, but I can turn it endlessly and turning has no impact on the actual rebound performance of the fork. Tightening the collar to 4-5 nm again hinders dial movement. I've cleaned and regreased the lockout/rebound unit (KH082) and also cleaned the hex hole where the XLR assembly is inserted. When I turn the rebound dial while it's inserted, I notice that the inner shaft also turns in the cartridge – I don't know if this is normal?

    Any help will be truly appreciated!
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  35. #435
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    It got overtightened, and is stuck.

    Forcing it in the manner available to you (the knob) will result in damage.

    Damper needs to be torn apart, easily dealt with at that point.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  36. #436
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    Thanks for the quick reply! It's time to get the super castle tool, then …
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    Hi,

    I have done a search and can't seem to find an answer, and am a MTB noob, so was looking for some help.

    I am considering buying a 2nd hand Cannondale Rush 2007 Carbon, and the current owner has changed out the original lefty (110mm travel) to one with 140mm travel.

    Can someone tell me what would be the effect of this? Is it detrimental to handling/performance? Is there a changed A-C length, and can this be compensated for by moving the shock within the "holder"?

    From what I can tell, I can put in different spacers etc to get it back down to the original travel of 110mm if necessary - is this right? And would doing so return the handling back to the original factory design?

    Thanks in advance for your help.

  38. #438
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    Hi
    I have a problem with my Supermax 160 27.5 ( Jekyll ) . I can't remove damper. I can make two - three rotations and it stops . I don't know if there is any t&t , or simply should I use bigger hammer ?

  39. #439
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    couple of questions on 27.5 140mm supermax.

    from searching it seems the offset is 50mm, but can anyone tell me what the a-c is?

    i want to use one with a 27.5+ front wheel. is travel limiting likely to be needed? (im guessing yes, because the tyre will be around 1cm greater, maybe more, in radius to a normal 27.5 tyre)

    i know there is a 29" 130mm supermax that could be used but it has 60mm offset. im also hoping the 140mm 27.5 might just be a little shorter a-c also.

    thanks!

  40. #440
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    Eh up,

    Just after some advice, I have a lefty pbr 90 and replaced the wave washer on the air piston but have noticed a damaged needle bearing - looks like the cage is damaged and one needle has come out and is sitting at the top of the bearing cage at 90 degrees. Any ideas what might have caused this and is removing the lower leg just a case of removing the glide bush nut and it pulling out?

    Cheers

  41. #441
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    Quote Originally Posted by ohbaby View Post
    Any ideas what might have caused this and is removing the lower leg just a case of removing the glide bush nut and it pulling out?
    Likely either overly aggressive bearing resets or, not doing resets and thus excessive migration.

    More involved than as described, need to pull it all the way apart, inspect the other bearings, and do a full rebuild, cause at this point, based on what you're saying, it's been a while....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  42. #442
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Likely either overly aggressive bearing resets or, not doing resets and thus excessive migration.

    More involved than as described, need to pull it all the way apart, inspect the other bearings, and do a full rebuild, cause at this point, based on what you're saying, it's been a while....
    Cheers mendon, the forks barely 9 months old and has been reset regularly. You say pull it all the way apart but it feels as if there is a definite stop there as if some sort of retainer needs to be removed before it separates.

  43. #443
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    There's a number of steps and retention devices, yes.

    If you aren't familiar, I would highly recommend seeking out someone who is, for the longevity and performance of your fork, as well as peace of mind for you, and your front teeth.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  44. #444
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    I have the new white Super Castle Tool which I use to service my Lefty Hybrid. Do I need tool KH123 to service the Lefty Hybrid 2.0 or will the Super Castle Tool work.

    Many thanks.

  45. #445
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    couple of questions on 27.5 140mm supermax.
    Offset is actually 55mm, and a2c is 530....

    Hope that helps!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  46. #446
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Offset is actually 55mm, and a2c is 530....

    Hope that helps!
    A bunch! Thanks muchly! Any idea where I can get my mitts on a tech drawing?

  47. #447
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    Quote Originally Posted by dRjOn View Post
    A bunch! Thanks muchly! Any idea where I can get my mitts on a tech drawing?
    Not really, what are you looking for?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  48. #448
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    Really just as much detail as possible. I am wanting to use this on a hard tail frame with 27.5+ (true 3") front wheel and I am trying to work out if I can swap between this set up and a makwa fork/29+ front wheel. Hard tail, custom ti. At ~ 530 a-c given sag it is in the mm between the 2, but headset set up/ clamp depth etc would be nice to know/ work out.

  49. #449
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    They don't make drawings etc available, but the forks are available in 4 spacings, 97mm, 110 mm, 122 mm and 134mm.

    Clamps do not move, so consider overall stack height, headtube and headset.

    Project 321 makes steerer conversions for either tapered, or 1 1/8" straight. Simple, clean, work awesome.

    Need more, hit me.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  50. #450
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    Thanks once again! Appreciate your help here... I'll start with that and see how we go! Cheers!

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    They don't make drawings etc available, but the forks are available in 4 spacings, 97mm, 110 mm, 122 mm and 134mm.

    Clamps do not move, so consider overall stack height, headtube and headset.

    Project 321 makes steerer conversions for either tapered, or 1 1/8" straight. Simple, clean, work awesome.

    Need more, hit me.

  51. #451
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    I know everyone is using a smart phone or GPS system as a bike computer nowadays, but for various reasons I still need to occasionally use a plain old wireless computer that mounts to the handlebars. Any recommendations for how to mount the pickup down on the OPI lower, and where to mount the magnet?
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
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    '97 Uber V conversion

  52. #452
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    Might not be the right place for this but I don't want to spam new threads. I have 3 questions; if anyone can answer it'd be much appreciated:

    1) am I understanding the Lefty manual correctly (http://media.cannondale.com/media//u...Hrs%200415.pdf pg 17) in saying that a 2015 Supermax 2.0 PBR 130 - 29' with a 100mm spacing (small) will fit on a 97mm headtube max, a 112.9mm (medium) on a 109.7mm and under, a 125.6mm (large) on a 122.4mm and under, 137.6mm (x-large) on a 134.4mm and under, and those are the 4 standard Lefty sizes?

    2) A 100mm headtube will require a medium Lefty and will not work with a small, and a 115mm headtube will require a large and not work with a medium (see 17" and 18.5" frame: http://www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/161.html)?

    3) Is it safe to purchase a used Lefty off Ebay in terms of having a valid warranty and not having been beat up internally? I'm currently looking at: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...876661&alt=web. It looks like a 2015 per the color scheme and in great shape. The seller has no information regarding its history. It has a 4.5" clamp per the seller; is that likely the 112.9mm medium?

    Thanks in advance. Excited to go Lefty on a new 29+ build I'm planning out!

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  53. #453
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    I have a 2009 Lefty Max Carbon with PBR, and would dearly love to change it over to the OPI lowers - yes, I'm a weight weenie. Can anyone point the way to a parts listing so I can find the part number for the correct lower? Is KH096 the correct one?

    Also, am I correct in that the 130mm travel that my Lefty has is limited by the length of the damper, and if I fitted a 140mm damper, I'd have 140mm travel?

    Thanks,

    Jacques

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heusch View Post
    Hello!

    Because of no-reply in European MTB News, I try it in this Forum. To improve performance I want to clean and grease the needle bearing with better grease. So far so good.
    My challange is to demount a Hybrid Lefty XLR. It´s all done but the last step confuse me. I can´t pull away the lower tube from the upper. Is there any secret lock?
    Hi guys,

    I get the same problem, anyone have the solution ?

    Thanks.The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20131116_131249k.jpg

  55. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsptsa View Post
    Hi guys,

    I get the same problem, anyone have the solution ?

    Thanks.Click image for larger version. 

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    Cannot be done by end users, or even well trained shop mechanics.

    I work on thousands of Leftys, I'm not even allowed in currently, though that is supposed to change early this Spring, and I have to say about damn time. .

    In the US? The Cannondale Factory Tech Room is the only place it can be done at this point. In the EU, I believe there are 3 or 4 Cannondale service centers that have been given the go ahead to start doing this.

    Besides, what grease you use is irrelevant because those forks use an oil bath, not grease.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  56. #456
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    Thanks for your reply, if I understand correctly, there is no possibility to change needle bearing myself.

    Am I right ?

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsptsa View Post
    Thanks for your reply, if I understand correctly, there is no possibility to change needle bearing myself.

    Am I right ?
    Correct.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  58. #458
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_20150918_135726.jpg

    Can you tell me if the o'ring is damaged ?

    Thanks

  59. #459
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    Yes, and I'm guessing the detents on the rebound knob when you turn it are missing too?

    There's two ball bearings that should be under that seal there, better find them or they'll wreak havoc inside...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  60. #460
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    Fortunately, balls was still in place !

    Now I understand why I never felt any difference when knob rebound was rotated !

    Last question I hope, is there a special procedure for oil filling into cartridge ?

    Thanks.theyoilling

  61. #461
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    Cool.

    Yes, pretty multi step, and you'll end up with bubbles in there if you aren't careful.

    Might be a video or something floating about the web if you're trying to DIY....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    I know everyone is using a smart phone or GPS system as a bike computer nowadays, but for various reasons I still need to occasionally use a plain old wireless computer that mounts to the handlebars. Any recommendations for how to mount the pickup down on the OPI lower, and where to mount the magnet?
    I mount a small rare earth magnet on the rotor. The pickup aligns easily at that point. It's been there for over 2 years and hasn't missed a beat.

    Tim
    Last edited by Wombat; 10-01-2015 at 01:43 PM.

  63. #463
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    Hey guys,

    I have a 2013 XLR that has not been serviced before. It feels like I'm losing a bit of small bump compliance. It definitely doesn't ride a plush as it did when I got it. So I'm thinking at rebuild is in store.

    Can anyone point me to where I can get a rebuild kit and anything that explains how to do it? I can't seem to find much on it.

    Thanks!

  64. #464
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    Looks like I'm upgrading my Carbon Speed 80mm travel fork to the PBR internals. The original cartridge is damaged and Cannondale doesn't make a replacement anymore. $300 to get the backup bike back on the wall.


    Sent from Tandy 400

  65. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Hey guys,

    I have a 2013 XLR that has not been serviced before. It feels like I'm losing a bit of small bump compliance. It definitely doesn't ride a plush as it did when I got it. So I'm thinking at rebuild is in store.

    Can anyone point me to where I can get a rebuild kit and anything that explains how to do it? I can't seem to find much on it.

    Thanks!
    I get my Lefty bits from Dr Cannondale in Germany or Cannondaleexperts in the US. There is a video on Vimeo outlining the 100hr service procedure, its for the Hybrid 2, this helped me out along with other video's on you tube.

  66. #466
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Here is an issue to share and ask if anyone been there: I recently purchased a Flash with a lefty carbon XLR (bonded clamp). Got the bike but after a quick first inspection I found a crack on the upper clamp of the lefty. Contacted the seller kindly asking to locate the original owner of the fork and hopefully get a replacement fork with C'dale. Seller found information of the shop where the bike came from originally, Bike shop got in touch with C'dale and here is what they have to say:

    'Cannondale is willing to do a crash replacement for the fork, which would bring the price of a new fork down to $1000 from $1600'.

    Anyone heard of this kind of rip off???? In my mind C'dale should replace the fork just by looking at the picture...definitely looks like a material failure / week spot...not from a crash.


    At least the seller will give me a full refund.




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  67. #467
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    You've outed yourself as not the original purchaser, IF Cdale reads these threads...
    And it looks like it may be the result of over tightening....?

  68. #468
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    I'm all about companies honoring warranties, but it clearly looks like the bolt was overtightened. Not really cdales fault. You should definitely have the seller refund every cent incudimg shipping if applicable. I HIGHLY doubt they weren't aware of the issue when they sold it to you.

  69. #469
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    Ditto.

    Overtightened bolt, seen plenty over the years.

    That they were willing to sell you a new one at discount is then, proof of them being honorable, not shady.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  70. #470
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Ok thanks guys...full refund is being done. Don't really care if Cannondale see's my post. Seller was very nice and attentive and the location of the crack is very hard to see with the fork installed...so I gave him my understanding. To bad for him from now on.


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  71. #471
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    Sucks to have to send it back but not much else you could have done.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by dietz31684 View Post
    Sucks to have to send it back but not much else you could have done.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
    Is all good...I even tried to help the guy...said that if he sells all the parts separately he could make up for the price loss of the fork. The bike have really good component, Flash carbon Frame 29er, Mavic cross max wheel, fizik Cyrano post, Fizik tundra 2 carbon rails! Easton carbon handlebars, XT brakeset almost new pads, XT crank...single speed though. I could have done it...and keep the lefty fork for parts with me so I could open and learn how to service the fork......but didn't wanted to take the risk of taking forever to sell everything.......or should I have done it?!?! Damn it!

  73. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrepsz View Post
    Is all good...I even tried to help the guy...said that if he sells all the parts separately he could make up for the price loss of the fork. The bike have really good component, Flash carbon Frame 29er, Mavic cross max wheel, fizik Cyrano post, Fizik tundra 2 carbon rails! Easton carbon handlebars, XT brakeset almost new pads, XT crank...single speed though. I could have done it...and keep the lefty fork for parts with me so I could open and learn how to service the fork......but didn't wanted to take the risk of taking forever to sell everything.......or should I have done it?!?! Damn it!
    he can probably have it repaired, no? someone good with welding or metal work would have to chime in.

  74. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoNin9r View Post
    he can probably have it repaired, no? someone good with welding or metal work would have to chime in.
    Such a critical location...I would not ride that fork even after welding it. Don't understand why Cannondale had to bond the clamp to the carbon tube like this....it should be removable!


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  75. #475
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    Can the travel on a lefty 100mm off a 2015 scapel be increased to 120mm?

  76. #476
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    My Lefty developed some fine scratches on lower leg, some of them I can feel with my nail, I think due to dust/dirt (even if I totally avoid riding in mud)?
    How much impact these scratches can have on fork performance?


  77. #477
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    Out of interest, how many KMs has that done?

    From my experience with normal forks, when the stantions start to get scratched it wears out the bushings and you get play and / or water getting in and interesting things like hydro-locking start to occur.

    As Lefty 2.0 is the right way up, you might get your oil bath falling out. More on that in my next post....

  78. #478
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    So my brand new 100mm 2.0 PBR dumped it's oil bath all over my workshop floor. It had fifty miles on it.

    Symptoms were a puddle of gold oil on the floor with an oil residue running down from the lower over the post-mount adapter.


    Bummed.

  79. #479
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    No more than 2500 km, I bought it in mid 2015 and since last year most of my trainings are done on the road bike.

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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    No more than 2500 km, I bought it in mid 2015 and since last year most of my trainings are done on the road bike.
    Do you regularly clean the wiper seal? It's important to get all the gunk out of it to prevent sand/dirt from wearing the lower.

    Have you been through this thread?

    2013 Lefty scratches?

    If it starts dumping oil, you may need a new lower.

  81. #481
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    Yes, I do remove the protection and clean it almost after every ride. I knew that it was another thread open with this problem but couldn't find it, I even posted there one year ago but I forgot:-)
    A new lower sounds not nice and if I understand correctly this operation is not possible by the local service, right?

  82. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    A new lower sounds not nice and if I understand correctly this operation is not possible by the local service, right?
    I think that's a job for a service centre, yes. But you'd only need to do it if the lower gets so scratched that it starts destroying the wiper seal & bushing. If it's still holding oil in the open bath in the bottom of the lower, then happy days.

    I'd send if off for a full service and inspection if I were you.

  83. #483
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    Hallo

    Does anybody know if its possible to change the travel on a 2014 Lefty Carbon 90mm to 100mm?
    Last edited by Alphatdi; 10-21-2015 at 12:01 PM.

  84. #484
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    Hello all,
    Building an '09 Caffeine 1 frame up to replace the one stolen from me a while back.
    Got the frame now looking for the Lefty. Just not sure of the range in years of Lefty forks to come as close as what the bike came with originally? I know it is a Carbon Speed DLR thats about it.
    And to confirm, is it the same fork for 26" wheels to 29" wheels just adding/removing the travel reducers accordingly?
    And of course, if anyone knows where to buy it other than the classifieds here or Ebay.

    Thanks

  85. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyketobyke View Post
    Hello all
    The Speed forks are all the same, so any one of those would be a good "direct replacement" choice.

    They were all 110 for 26, 80 for 29, and yes, remove spacers (and a volume reducer swap or removal depending on Solo Air or coil negative spring type for optimal performance) to go 29 to 26, and vice versa.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  86. #486
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    Question regarding changing travel on hybrid 2.0 2016:
    The new habit comes in a 120 mm and a 130 mm setup, should it be an easy task to convert the 120 to 130?
    Cant seem to find any parts diagram online.

    Thanks and please feel free to move post or direct elsewhere if needed, new poster long time lurker as they say..

  87. #487
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    I have a DLR2 with a few hundred miles since it was serviced. It won't hold air for more than a few hours suddenly. I checked the valve core. Any other thoughts?

  88. #488
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    Literally won't, or appears to not?

    As in, no pressure when you put the pump back on, or, it sags down and feels super soft?

    Former? Sounds like a seal not doing it's job (torn, rolled, wrong size/style), something. Latter? Is it Solo Air, may be the wave washer broke.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  89. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Literally won't, or appears to not?

    As in, no pressure when you put the pump back on, or, it sags down and feels super soft?

    Former? Sounds like a seal not doing it's job (torn, rolled, wrong size/style), something. Latter? Is it Solo Air, may be the wave washer broke.

    Hi Craig,

    I took a closer look at it. It is actually holding air. It wasn't registering until I gave the shock pump fitting a final little snug. As for the symptom that caused me to question it; The fork does sag down 'fairly easily' for the about the first inch of travel. It just feels different than it used to for lack of a better explanation. I did a bearing reset on it maybe a month or so ago. I don't recall it feeling that way before that. I haven't ridden the bike much since then as I've been using my other bike lately. I don't think it's Solo Air. It's a 2007'ish DLR2 with a standard damper.

  90. #490
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    May be Solo air, it could have been updated, that fork will take it.

    If it feels initially soft, could be a few things. Lighter bearing preload, or removal of the air chamber volume reducer come to mind.

    Did you put it to the same pressure as before, after you got it back?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  91. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    May be Solo air, it could have been updated, that fork will take it.

    If it feels initially soft, could be a few things. Lighter bearing preload, or removal of the air chamber volume reducer come to mind.

    Did you put it to the same pressure as before, after you got it back?
    The air pressure is the same, maybe a little higher. It's been about a year and a half since the service, so I'm overdue. I'll send it in after the new year.

  92. #492
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    Cannondale has finally committed to a time frame for the new Solo Air pistons.

    They won't rely on a wave washer. Should be shipping end of January.

    That should (long term) resolve the issues many folks have been seeing like this.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  93. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Cannondale has finally committed to a time frame for the new Solo Air pistons.

    They won't rely on a wave washer. Should be shipping end of January.

    That should (long term) resolve the issues many folks have been seeing like this.
    Hey Craig, got a techy question, and need an opinion.
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20151223_110725_zpso6qwpvdj.jpg

    You rebuilt this DLR2 a couple of years ago for a buddy, he let a relative ride the bike for most of last year, and it was brought to me to find out why the front brake was locked up. I immediately noticed there was oil everywhere on the lower, and no rebound dampening happening in the fork.

    I'm assuming that old damper has blown out the seals (again) and called Cannondale fork support to order a rebuild kit (I have a dealer account). Guy there told me that those old dampers were prone to this and they don't have the parts available for a full damper rebuild. Instead he told me I should swap in a new PBR damper (KH087), Air piston kit (KH052), and new Upper Collar (KH101) to bring it up to pre-hybrid alloy PBR spec.

    He also says I need 3 reducer clips (HD010) - but these should be the same as the 3 travel spacers already in the DLR2, correct?

    I'm willing to do the upgrade, as it won't cost me nearly what retail is, but, should I wait for the new solo air upgrade parts, or rebuild the current damper for now (if I can find a seal kit)?

  94. #494
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    I don't see any spacers, so I assume they just aren't in the pic? Is it used on a 29er even? That'd be the only reason for the spacers.

    Hogwash on them being "prone" to leaks.

    The new stuff will do it too if you ride it long enough. As long as the shafts are smooth and free of damage, it's just as rebuildable as the new PBR's.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  95. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I don't see any spacers, so I assume they just aren't in the pic? Is it used on a 29er even? That'd be the only reason for the spacers.

    Hogwash on them being "prone" to leaks.

    The new stuff will do it too if you ride it long enough. As long as the shafts are smooth and free of damage, it's just as rebuildable as the new PBR's.
    Yes, on a 29er, parts are on a tray out of the shot.

    Shafts are all good looking, telescope feels smooth, needles don't need a reset.

    I just went back out to the shop to play with it a little more, and found that the lower damper cap wasn't snug, took a full rotation before it snugged up. Looks likt it might have backed out a little. Threads look good in the plastic. I'm wondering if that might be the extent of the problem. I'm going to refill the damper and bleed for now and see where it goes.

    5 weight oil in the damper?

  96. #496
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    That's a bandaid.

    The oil all went through the fork telescope. Rebuilding it is a really good idea if you don't want massive migration from being "super lubed" as well as oil weeping out the boot for a good long time to come.

    Yes, loose caps, they happen with ride time. Supposedly "fixed" with the newer alloy caps, I still see loose ones of those, so I pay little heed to them having "made it better". They still, simply need love periodically, like any high performance product.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  97. #497
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    Oh, and yes, 5 wt minimum....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  98. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    That's a bandaid.

    The oil all went through the fork telescope. Rebuilding it is a really good idea if you don't want massive migration from being "super lubed" as well as oil weeping out the boot for a good long time to come.

    Yes, loose caps, they happen with ride time. Supposedly "fixed" with the newer alloy caps, I still see loose ones of those, so I pay little heed to them having "made it better". They still, simply need love periodically, like any high performance product.
    Ok - I've committed to a telescope teardown to clean and relube.

    I'm stuck at the retaining clip that the outer races are locked into.

    I can get one or 2 pried out of the way but even if I get the other 2 released, how do I get the clip itself out with all that extra hardware in there? I don't think I can get a pick tool in between the rounded portion of the inner and the race to pull it out.

    I've got to get this thing cleaned up, but this step has me stumped.

    This is a pic of what I'm referring to - taken from an excellent series of pictures here: Lefty Service - IMG_2940 - Version 2

  99. #499
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    Dental picks are your friend, that, and patience.

    Best I can tell you....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  100. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Dental picks are your friend, that, and patience.

    Best I can tell you....
    Thanks,

    3rd try was the charm using a series of sharpened spokes and a thin screwdriver.

    Then I promptly managed to let my outer race retainer slip so now it will be mix n match until it feels right.

    This is what I get for doing work for a buddy, lol.

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