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  1. #301
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    i used a piece of PVC pipe to drive the steerer on my 03 rize with a lefty max, worked fine

  2. #302
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    latest lefty treatment

    Here is my latest lefty recipient. A trek sawyer with a lefty speed dlr 2, running a nuvinci hub, running 29er+ nards, with juicy 7 hydros.

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-sawyer-29-.jpg

  3. #303
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    Sorry double post
    Last edited by d@vid; 07-29-2013 at 04:47 AM.

  4. #304
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    Hi everyone

    I have a brand new 2013 lefty and it leaked quite a bit of oil through the schrader valve when I let some air out to set the sag, is this normal?

    Thanks
    David
    Last edited by d@vid; 07-29-2013 at 06:09 AM.

  5. #305
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    if it's just a drop of oil, that's ok

  6. #306
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    Guys I need your help and advice I'm thinking of replacing my Lefty MAX with FFD daper (I think it's 2008. model) with Rock Shox Sektor (150mm travel, Dual Position Coil 120-150 and Motion Control damper). But I'm really unsure abouth this movement, will this be upgrade or downgrade
    Oh I forgot, bike is Prophet and I'm going to use this headset reducer SIXPACK - Steuersatz Kingpin-R 1.5"-kingpinR

    P.S. Is this thread OK for such question or I should open new thread?

  7. #307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mate View Post
    Guys I need your help and advice I'm thinking of replacing my Lefty MAX with FFD daper (I think it's 2008. model) with Rock Shox Sektor (150mm travel, Dual Position Coil 120-150 and Motion Control damper). But I'm really unsure abouth this movement, will this be upgrade or downgrade
    Oh I forgot, bike is Prophet and I'm going to use this headset reducer SIXPACK - Steuersatz Kingpin-R 1.5"-kingpinR

    P.S. Is this thread OK for such question or I should open new thread
    ?
    Yea I guess it's ok, but your limiting yourself in terms of audience. Only those surfing this thread or subscribed with notifications are going to see it....
    Your best bet is a whole new thread....

  8. #308
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    Thank you Tony, I opened new thread

  9. #309
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    Hey awesome instructional. Just redid the lefty max ffd

    I dont know if im an idiot or not. I'm filling it up with oil. which position do i want the rebound rod in? do i leave it in the position its in after tightening the rebound shaft on or pulled all the way up towards the top of the fork, or does it matter? The cannondale guide says around 155cc of oil but I'm getting nowhere near that volume in it. Any help would be appreciated!

  10. #310
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    Hi all

    Could anybody tell me if the NEW Lefty SUPERMAX PBR 130 would work on a Santa Cruz Tall Boy LTc?

    And, if so where would I find a Lefty SUPERMAX PBR 130?

    Regards

    Otto

  11. #311
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    Can anyone tell me if i can convert a LEFTY 29'ER PBR @90mm stock travel to 100mm for a 29er frame and even longer ,100mm+ travel for 26" use ?

    Many thanks

  12. #312
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    If it's NOT a 2013 hybrid one (so: If it's a 2010-2012 one) you can. Up to 110 mm for 29er or 140mm for 26er. There is a thread about how to do it: 2011 leftys: How to lengthen a 120 to 140?

  13. #313
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    Ok thank you - it's a PBR model from a 2012 frame , I'll check that link out.

  14. #314
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    Does anybody know where can I get a rebound part from old TPC damper (cannondale pn is KF217) or maybe advice how can I convert it from SPV assy. I think SPV is the same rebound part plus spv valve, but spv will not work without bladder, so when the spv unit is not too tall, this idea must work. Am I wrong? Missed something?

  15. #315
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    Lefty Hybrid Service Manual

    Hello!

    Because of no-reply in European MTB News, I try it in this Forum. To improve performance I want to clean and grease the needle bearing with better grease. So far so good.
    My challange is to demount a Hybrid Lefty XLR. It´s all done but the last step confuse me. I can´t pull away the lower tube from the upper. Is there any secret lock?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20131116_131249k.jpg  


  16. #316
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    Sorry if this question was already asked, but:
    what I need to change damper from dlr2 to pbr in aluminium speed lefty 110?
    pbr damper..., what else?..

  17. #317
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    Just use a wooden stick as a spacer ,place it where the oil cartridge was and hit it hard . the needle bearings will be shown . Also do not touch the needle bearing. I did so and now I have to wait for the new ones that I have ordered.

  18. #318
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    I had my LBS convert my '08 SL110 to 29er travel. I was selling my Scalpel 26er and moving the carbon fork to my Caffeine 29er. I bought a Scalpel 29er last year, so the Caffeine has been ridden once by a friend who is a novice rider. I haven't touched it until I went to ready the Caffeine for winter riding. It is super springy with very little damping. Adjusting rebound and air pressure has little impact; it still rides badly. Did the shop screw something up when they did the 80mm conversion? Thanks.

  19. #319
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-washers%5B1%5D.jpg

    Does anyone know where these 2 washers go in the 80 DLR damper.
    It's a mystery to me.

  20. #320
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    Lefty Max 130, 2008-ish. Quick cheap fix for leaky damper?

    Hey all,

    I'm wondering how hard it is to change out the seal o-rings in a red PBR damper. It it just taking off the nylon end caps from the damper taking off whatever is at the ends that keep the parts on there, pulling the caps out and sticking new o-rings in there?

    I'm finding oil in the bottom of my boot (on more than one of my Leftys) and it seems that damper oil is just leaking out the bottom of the damper. Plus, my PBR lockout isn't nearly as firm as it should be. I'm assuming it's because when the damper oil leaks out, it's sucking in air, which compresses... taking away the firmness of the lockout. Also, seems that the damper rebound knob doesn't do anything anymore.

    The LBS Cannondale Dealer doesn't really want to work on them. They just swap out the dampers and charge $150 or so to do it. I know Mendon will service it for $100 or so, and he does a good job. Seems to me that if it's just replacing the o-rings, I should be able to do that. Heck, I've rebuilt Audi engines, lapped valves, replaced seals on my Reba, etc. None of this looks like it would be very hard to do if I just had the right info.

    I'm also wondering what the exact sizes of the o-rings might be. I could buy the o-ring kit if I could find the right one, but they are probably just off the shelf o-rings, if I could just find the right specs. I'll bet the local Ace Hardware or auto parts store carries the right sizes for a buck each.

    Yeah, I could always send it back to Mendon Cyclesmith (and the guy runs a great shop, BTW) but I really wanna be more self sufficient with this stuff. I do everything else myself. Why not this?

    *edit*

    Upon further research, it turns out that the damper seals are Parker U-seals 1/2” U-cup #n4180-a80-8404-00500 ... as far as I can tell (but don't quote me on that). I don't know all the dimensions, but it jives that they are designed around a 1/2" shaft (frickin' Cannondale, using SAE sizes). Sounds like something I can get from an industrial supplier if I can find some more specifics. Problem is, I'll bet nobody will sell them to me unless I buy a hundred of them, or something.

    Looks kinda like this:

    Last edited by pimpbot; 12-25-2013 at 08:44 PM.

  21. #321
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    i´ve got a concerning question. the damper is leaking and i want to change the sealings. what tools i need and steps to perform to remove the upper oil cap from piston to change the inner seal?

    thanks guys

    it´s the white one in the center of the pic - DLR2 Catridge
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_1810%5B1%5D.jpg
    Last edited by designalized; 01-11-2014 at 04:25 PM.

  22. #322
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    Quote Originally Posted by roadrunner View Post
    Does anyone know where these 2 washers go in the 80 DLR damper.
    It's a mystery to me.
    looks like shims from the compression or rebound shim stack

  23. #323
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    pimpbot,
    my DC measurements of the seal:
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    A couple of those seals comes as a part of cannondale KH042 seal kit.
    If you want to change them/oil by your own just keep in mind that the seals, wich are the common cause of the leakage, do their job only when put under pressure. So, dont let the air getting into damper assembly when putting it together and make sure you install the pressure spring properly.

  24. #324
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    Hi, this page has a guideline to replace damper seals of the lefty PBR. Sorry because the page is in portuguese, but the Google Traductor can help!!!

    MISTER HEADSHOK: MANUTENÇÃO DO CARTUCHO HIDRAULICO LEFTY PBR

    The blog also has guideline for Fatty DL:

    MISTER HEADSHOK: MANUTENÇÃO DO CARTUCHO HIDRAULICO HEADSHOK FATTY DL 80

    and DLR:
    MISTER HEADSHOK: MANUTENÇÃO DO CARTUCHO HIDRÁULICO HEADSHOK FATTY DLR 80

    I hope that helps
    Last edited by Kndle; 01-14-2014 at 03:40 PM.

  25. #325
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    This Parker catalog has the exact size of the seal and its part number in the page 182-line 4
    http://www.parker.com/literature/Eng...stems/5370.pdf
    Last edited by Kndle; 01-14-2014 at 03:42 PM.

  26. #326
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    I have a problem
    After oil change and disassembly fork,I mixed shims stuck of rebaund and compression and after several attempts,I was not able to be put together as it was. (rebaund is too fast, and compresion i.... say strange
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?

  27. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    I have a problem
    After oil change and disassembly fork,I mixed shims stuck of rebaund and compression and after several attempts,I was not able to be put together as it was. (rebaund is too fast, and compresion i.... say strange
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?
    No, not without looking at the diagram... which I'm sure you've done already, RIGHT?

    That said, are you sure you got the damper cartridge oil bled properly? If there is any air in there at all, it won't lock out and will feel funny.

    BTW, I just emailed an industrial supply company about the Parker seals. See how they break down for a bunch. If they're cheap enough, maybe I'll buy 100, keep a few for myself and sell the rest for cheap.

  28. #328
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    Unfortunately I do not have a diagram for XLR/PBR. I have diagram in pdf and manual for DLR, with thicknes of shim stuck,...
    is it the same ?
    Bleeding is ok, I'm sure, but feeling is not
    Only if you turn rebaund through the slowest position, then felt like it was a little slow, but litl, if back only a half-circle, then as fast as the fastest position
    What oil recommended for this damper?

  29. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?
    may it´s the same like the 130mm PBR

    http://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf

  30. #330
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    Cannondale Service Centre - RLC Sport
    Take a look at this Australian site, it states tuning 2013 lefty's for more compliance, any ideas on how??

  31. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by designalized View Post
    may it´s the same like the 130mm PBR

    http://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
    Maybe this is good, but I can not enlarge a quality that I saw the details. Do you have the original pdf of this document?

  32. #332
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    see the chart on page 16 "sHim stacKs From Piston oUt". the order is descriped from top to bottom.

  33. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by designalized View Post
    see the chart on page 16 "sHim stacKs From Piston oUt". the order is descriped from top to bottom.


    Thanks man

  34. #334
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    Gotta' love the shop technique in the pics half-way down this page:

    Precio del mantenimiento de horquillas headshok. Destripando fatty.Manual incluido | Página 2 | ForoMTB.com

    ... or, perhaps not...

  35. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Hey all,

    I'm wondering how hard it is to change out the seal o-rings in a red PBR damper. It it just taking off the nylon end caps from the damper taking off whatever is at the ends that keep the parts on there, pulling the caps out and sticking new o-rings in there?

    I'm finding oil in the bottom of my boot (on more than one of my Leftys) and it seems that damper oil is just leaking out the bottom of the damper. Plus, my PBR lockout isn't nearly as firm as it should be. I'm assuming it's because when the damper oil leaks out, it's sucking in air, which compresses... taking away the firmness of the lockout. Also, seems that the damper rebound knob doesn't do anything anymore.

    The LBS Cannondale Dealer doesn't really want to work on them. They just swap out the dampers and charge $150 or so to do it. I know Mendon will service it for $100 or so, and he does a good job. Seems to me that if it's just replacing the o-rings, I should be able to do that. Heck, I've rebuilt Audi engines, lapped valves, replaced seals on my Reba, etc. None of this looks like it would be very hard to do if I just had the right info.

    I'm also wondering what the exact sizes of the o-rings might be. I could buy the o-ring kit if I could find the right one, but they are probably just off the shelf o-rings, if I could just find the right specs. I'll bet the local Ace Hardware or auto parts store carries the right sizes for a buck each.

    Yeah, I could always send it back to Mendon Cyclesmith (and the guy runs a great shop, BTW) but I really wanna be more self sufficient with this stuff. I do everything else myself. Why not this?

    *edit*

    Upon further research, it turns out that the damper seals are Parker U-seals 1/2” U-cup #n4180-a80-8404-00500 ... as far as I can tell (but don't quote me on that). I don't know all the dimensions, but it jives that they are designed around a 1/2" shaft (frickin' Cannondale, using SAE sizes). Sounds like something I can get from an industrial supplier if I can find some more specifics. Problem is, I'll bet nobody will sell them to me unless I buy a hundred of them, or something.

    Looks kinda like this:

    Hi,
    The closest thing I found was this:
    K95 012 7 U Ring 12 5 x 20 x 3 5 HO 4 NBR90 Rod Piston Seal uring Upto 150BAR | eBay
    maybe it work.

  36. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by betopro View Post
    Huh... interesting. 12.5mm comes in at 0.492~ inches... a hair under 0.5 inches. Probably close enough to work. For $16 for six seals landed ($10 for two, $16 for six... may as well stock up for all of my Leftys), I might give it a try. I hope they combine shipping. If so, I'll order a bunch for all of my forks.

    BTW, I changed my fork oil. It seems to be leaking less with new oil. I probably flushed a lot of wear particles out of there. The oil coming out looked awfully grey.

    That said, my Lefty Max on my SS could probably use a trip to Mendon. I wonder if he can get it back to me by Sea Otter?

  37. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    Gotta' love the shop technique in the pics half-way down this page:

    Precio del mantenimiento de horquillas headshok. Destripando fatty.Manual incluido | Página 2 | ForoMTB.com

    ... or, perhaps not...
    Yikes!

    I just clicked the link and saw the horror pics. My Spanish is pretty weaksauce, but.... did he use f'ing vice grips to remove the damper cartridge? ... and use a scratch awl to unscrew the damper cartridge end caps?

    Okay, there is a time and a place to do hack work.... like when you're stranded 20 miles from the trailhead, or on some beater cheapo piece of gear you plan to replace anyway... but on a sweet carbon Lefty fork? Uh, no!

    Granted, one of my Lefty forks has a the castle on the top kinda chewed up from removing it so many times and letting the tool slip a few too many times, but I would never resort to vice grips unless it was going directly into the trash can.

    BTW, the Super Castle Tool.... who's brilliant idea was it to paint it or powder coat it? I have paint flakes inside all of my forks from that stupid thing. They should have just plated it, or use a black oxide coating.

  38. #338
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    I think this would be the correct place for this lefty question if anyone can help.

    I have a 2008 F3 Caffeine hardtail and i want to swap out the headshok for a lefty. Would any lefty year fit this steertube? Meaning if i got a new or newer 2014 or 2013 lefty is it plug and play for my frame? I know that the f2 came with the lefty so i figured it was the same frame just with that fork. Any help is greatly appreciated!

  39. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by csm929 View Post
    I think this would be the correct place for this lefty question if anyone can help.

    I have a 2008 F3 Caffeine hardtail and i want to swap out the headshok for a lefty. Would any lefty year fit this steertube? Meaning if i got a new or newer 2014 or 2013 lefty is it plug and play for my frame? I know that the f2 came with the lefty so i figured it was the same frame just with that fork. Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Yeah, I don't see why not. The Caffeine came with a Lefty in some versions. As long as you don't have an XL size frame, it should be fine. If you have an XL frame, you'll need the XL version of the Lefty to fit the taller head tube.

  40. #340
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    New question here. Lefty 29 pbr 90 - Can i use with a 26" wheel

    The title says it all is there anything stopping me from using my 26" wheels with this fork.

  41. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by langtounboy View Post
    The title says it all is there anything stopping me from using my 26" wheels with this fork.
    maybe the crownheight - lefty 29" 90mm is the same fork as a lefty 26" ultra 120mm (29er Conversion with travelreducers and air volume reducer)

    the question is how much travel you would like to have and what frame you would use

  42. #342
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    Hi, what oil recommended( thickness and manufacturer) for lefty speed ?

  43. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    Hi, what oil recommended( thickness and manufacturer) for lefty speed ?

    One of the manuals I saw online recommended Golden Spectro 85/150 (2.5 WT) Fork Fluid.

  44. #344
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    I wanted to give a big thumbs up to MendonCycleSmith. I sent my fork in for work and it arrived to his shop yesterday and it's already back on it's way to me. Now thats service

  45. #345
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    I have an issue with the rebound adjustment on my 2013 Lefty XLR hybrid. After disassembling the fork and putting it back together, now the top part is compressing the rebound knob as I screw it on. Even by tightening it just by hand, the rebound knob won't move at all. Any idea where I could have it wrong?

  46. #346
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    Just wanted to give a shout out to MendonCycleSmith and the help he gave me getting my new 2014 lefty pbr. I have an 08 caffeine hardtail in matte black that i love but the headshok was blown again and i wanted to move up in the fork world. Craig took the time to answer my 100 questions regarding the benefits of the fork, what i needed, and how to get it. He supplied me with a beautiful fork and also built me a front wheel for the fork that came out absolutely perfect. He really is the true guru of these forks. Thanks again Craig!!

  47. #347
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    Does anyone have a DLR cartridge for a 2004 lefty ?

  48. #348
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    Can anyone help or give some ideas? I recently did a bearing reset (done this several times before with good results) and now the fork won't lock out. Fork is 2012 xlr with 100mm travel. I had the LBS bleed the remote, but no change. the botton does extend and compress as before, but there is 100% no LO. Will this require a new damper?

  49. #349
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    I just changed the oil in my damper for the first time. (90mm 2012 29er PBR) The fork felt fantastic for the first few hours then after about 7 hours the lockout stopped working and the fork started to feel more and more clunky. Then I find oil in the boot...

    I opened it up and I'm pretty sure oil was leaking through the bottom inner seal around the damper shaft. When I changed the oil I had fitted a new seal and there are no scratches on the damper shaft. If that's the case, how / why does the oil leak out from there? I think maybe I had some air in there, would that cause it? It's also possible I had fitted that seal the wrong way up, could that make a difference?

    Also, I think I dislodged the internal top octagonal washer that holds the 4 shim plates whilst refitting the damper. I gave it a nudge and it dropped right back into place but should that part be secured somehow?

    thanks for any info!

  50. #350
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    Brown PBR damper?

    So, I have a 2008-ish Lefty Max PBR I got off craigslist for way too cheap. I was noticing that it rides kinda low, A to C. I should probably actually measure it. I suspect it might be a 120mm fork. I put spacers in there to limit the travel for 29er use, but that doesn't change the A to C. The bearings have been recently reset as well, as best as I can do.

    So the odd thing is, this fork has a brown damper inside. Brown? I thought they had green ones for the Speed series Leftys, and Red for the Max series. I tried trimming 10mm off of the tube at the bottom of the damper, trying to get a bit more travel out of it, but that only resulted in the fork clunking at top out... even with the bearings reset as much as I can stand. I ended up putting the piece I cut off back in there. The tube in there was long... like 60mm, so I just figured it was a 120mm fork.

  51. #351
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    Quote Originally Posted by pcmark View Post
    One of the manuals I saw online recommended Golden Spectro 85/150 (2.5 WT) Fork Fluid.
    Depends on your weight. My new (to me) Lefty Max PBR... I thought the damper was broken, but the lockout worked just fine. Turns out somebody put some mega thin damper oil in there. I changed it out with some 5wt Motul motorcycle fork oil, and now it feels great. I think I could even go 7.5wt. I'm 210 pounds, and like a fast fork (but it was way too fast when I got it). I tend to lean towards the quick rebound side of things, but not so much I bounce off the trail into the bushes after landing a small jump.

  52. #352
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    Hey guys do you know what wrench (name and size) is required to unscrew the part number 13 (lower collar assy) from a Lefty Hybrid XLR 90 2013 ?
    Thank you !
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-lefty.png  


  53. #353
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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    Hey guys do you know what wrench (name and size) is required to unscrew the part number 13 (lower collar assy) from a Lefty Hybrid XLR 90 2013 ?
    Thank you !
    Hi, I've used a normal 40mm wrench

  54. #354
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    Re: The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Quote Originally Posted by d.zucconi View Post
    Hi, I've used a normal 40mm wrench
    Thanks!

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  55. #355
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    OK, so I have a large 2013 F29 with the PBR fork that I bought new and haven't had apart. I recently noticed that my stem spacers were slightly loose and there was a creak in the stem, so I removed the steerer assembly. Inside on the end of the steerer were three black spacers and a red spacer with a beveled edge.

    Are all four of those spacers supposed to be there? I looked at schematics and don't see them. I put the bike back together and tightened everything up to spec and there is still a little looseness to the stem spacers, which I think is due to those other spacers on the steerer. Is it safe to remove one or two of those internal spacers (which I suspect would allow me to get my stem nice and tight)?

    Thanks!

  56. #356
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    You have the MK2 (revised and supposed better) version of the steerer, the inside spacers must match the number of the outside spacers (the red inside one is mandatory, doesn't count). Take a look here for the schematics and additional info : V2 OPI Steerer

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  57. #357
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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    You have the MK2 (revised and supposed better) version of the steerer, the inside spacers must match the number of the outside spacers (the red inside one is mandatory, doesn't count). Take a look here for the schematics and additional info : V2 OPI Steerer

    Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk 4
    Wow, thanks. I didn't know that (and I appreciate the heads-up!)

  58. #358
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    Hi Everyone

    just a quick question I have just replaced my the top collar (part no kh 101) on my lefty and I have noticed that there are three orings that are to be fitted into the collar. there are two large orings and one smaller one I have managed to work out that the smaller of the three orings fits into the recess at the top of the collar (will be located between the rebound adjuster and the top caller) but I am not sure where the two larger orings go. I would be very grateful if anyone could advise me where the two large orings go.

  59. #359
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Arghhhh - is there a secret to threading in the steerer tube from under the headset into the OPI stem on a Lefty F-29. I can't get the male threads in the steerer to make purchase with the female end of the stem. If I pull the stem off, I'm looking down the the head tube at the top of the steerer tube, so it seems like should thread right up. Any help appreciated.


  60. #360
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    Ok - got it. Apparently the trick is to lube the OD of the base of the OPI stem so that it slips through the upper headset bearing far enough to grab the male threads on the steerer.

  61. #361
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    Is it possibile to convert a 29er Lefty Supermax into a 650b one with added travel?

  62. #362
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    Quick question: What's a good estimate for the Axle to Crown measurement on a 2013 XLR 100mm 29er Lefty?

  63. #363
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    Lefty clamp bolts and brake caliper mount bolts

    What are the sizes of theses bolts. I would like to replace them by titanium bolts
    Thanks

  64. #364
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    I just picked a 2014 scalpel 4 , I let all the air out of the lefty fork and now when I put air on it it seems to loose it within a few hours, anyone had this issue ?

  65. #365
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anders View Post
    ssuats, I just received my fork and put the spacer in position 1, as you indicated in post #207. Just one comment though. The travel reduction spacer is about 0.5mm larger in diameter than the upper air seal and you need to file it down or it won't go down the lower leg. It's a one minute job. Besides this it went as smooth as expected, though the locktite on the damper was very hard to break free. You need a lot of force to get it loose and be very carefull that the castle tool doesn't slip out of the damper interface or you will be in trouble. My fork was originally 490mm A-C now it's 480mm and you can definitely feel the different in steering, but I don't notice any change in suspension feel at least on tarmac.

    EDIT!

    I just realized that placing the spacer in the position indicated above will cause the spacer to move on the damper shaft when the fork is compressing which might cause wear on the surface in the long run. I have revised the placement to now be between the lower bottom out bumper and the lower air seal. The spacer should not move when place in this position.


    it's crazy how people manage to mess up everything with the only justification to DIY ... that clip in spacer is only used under the top cap, in the position showed in the picture will cause the malfunction of the soloair system...

  66. #366
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    2013 Lefty Hybrid PBR stuck in "locked" mode

    Hi All,

    I have a 2013 Scalpel 29er with a Lefty Hybrid PBR.

    Yesterday, when riding I had locked the fork and I was unable to unlock it afterwards.

    I noticed that the red compression knob became very hard to push in and even after applying significant force the knob would still "pop up" and the fork remain locked.

    After riding I decided to try to troubleshoot the issue further and here's what I found:

    • After multiple attempts to unlock the fork, I managed to get the red knob pressed down and unlock the fork but that required a amount of force that I had never used before. Now, locking the fork again by pressing the blue button causes the red knob to pop up so quickly that it actually hurt your finger if you keep over it. It seems that there is some kind of load in that mechanism that prevents it to easily move up and down;
    • I tough that this could be related with bearing migration, and I had reset it but it did not help.
    • I also unscrew the top cap of the fork (the one that you unscrew w/ a hollowtech tool) to look for anything loose or broken and did not noticed anything unusual.
    • I also noticed that removing all the pressure from the fork doesn't cause it to compress as if something is causing it to stay stuck. It doesn't look to be bearings as with the top cap removed, the fork will compress all the way down.
    • Any suggestions of what could be the issue? Also, does anyone has a detailed dissamble procedure for this fork?


    Regards,
    Ricardo

  67. #367
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    I have a 2015 scalpel team, this is my first cannondale. Is it normal to have run lower air pressure than normal forks require, and way below the recommended setting form cannondale? I am running 55psi and the recommended pressure is 87lbs I weigh 145lbs. I like a fast rebounding plush fork-not really loving the lefty right now.

  68. #368
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    I have a 2015 scalpel team, this is my first cannondale. Is it normal to have run lower air pressure than normal forks require, and way below the recommended setting form cannondale? I am running 55psi and the recommended pressure is 87lbs I weigh 145lbs. I like a fast rebounding plush fork-not really loving the lefty right now.
    55psi seems low for your weight. 145lbs is approximately 65kg, so recommended pressure per chart is 109psi. I'm around 230lbs or 104kg, recommended is 180psi. I've also used this calc: body weight x .75 = psi. So, 230lbs x .75 = 172.5psi. I've found that 170-175psi works best for me. As for rebound, after turning knob fully CW, 5 clicks out CCW.
    '16 Cannondale Scalpel Carbon 2
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  69. #369
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Ricardo - similar happened to me on my 2013 F-29 back in the Summer. I sent the fork to Mendon Cyclesmith for servicing and it's worked fine since.

  70. #370
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    Hi,
    I'm from belgium and I'm looking for some help.
    To resume I would like to make the full (oil - needle bearing change - o-ring...)maintenance of my lefty speed carbon sl with DLR myself.
    Does somebody have a link with tutorial maintenance? Technical manual?Pictures?
    Sorry for my bad English and thanks in advance for your help

  71. #371
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    2008 Headshok DL Internals

    So I recently fudged my way through a complete rebuild and air sleeve upgrade of my 2008 Headshok Super Fatty DL. I relied heavily on hints from this thread and others on the forum, so thanks to all of you!

    I saw many kinds of dampers from leftys and headshoks, but none were quite like mine. While I had the damper in pieces I thought I'd take a snap (and label it with my made-up part names!) so that someone else might benefit. This is a DL type (no rebound adjust), which is different to most that I saw which were DLR's.

    A quick caveat - I was assisted by a mech engineer buddy who made all the necessary tools on his mill - without this I would have been screwed. We made a pin spanner for the forks top cap, a cross spanner to remove the damper from the fork, another pin spanner for the damper caps, shaft clamps to hold the shaft and a bullet tool for reinstalling the damper cap seals. There's not really a satisfactory way to do this job if you don't have the right tools, so either cough up for the genuine items or find yourself a mill-monkey!

    My picture shows the shaft disassembled, but when you first get the shafts free of the damper cartridge the top cap of the damper (white) and the thick o-ring bump-stop (black) are trapped on the upper shaft between the damper valve (blue) and the 'fork top cap'. It took a lot of chin scratching to work up the courage to put the thing in a lathe (used as a 'press') and pull the top nut and top cap off their respective shafts. As it turns out they're pressed on relatively lightly - but I still don't think I'd attempt it without some kind of tool that will pull axially and I definitely wouldn't do it without proper shaft clamps.

    Once it's apart you can see the simple operation of the lock-out lever. When fully assembled the lockout nut is pressed onto the top of the lower shaft. Midway down the lower shaft is the lower portion of the damper valve which houses a kind of slotted washer. By rotating the nut with the lockout lever the whole lower shaft rotates relative to the upper shaft which realigns the ports of the damper valve - either opening or closing the valve. Very simple. Make sure the slotted washer is oriented correctly in it's housing or else your lockout lever will operate backwards or not at all.

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-imag1205_.jpg

    Cheers,

    Steve

  72. #372
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    a question :

    i am planning a special built ...

    can i remove all the internals from a Lefty ?

    which material can insert inside the fork to have a 40cm ( around ) distance axle-to-crown ? a delrin tube ? a pvc tube ?

    which weight can be at end of transformation ?

    and what about the top cap ? must be closed, without lockout and very strong to survive to all the hit of the road ...

  73. #373
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    Can anyone explain to me how to reset the bearings of a 2013 Lefty XLR Carbon?

  74. #374
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    Quote Originally Posted by Five Miles Out View Post
    Can anyone explain to me how to reset the bearings of a 2013 Lefty XLR Carbon?
    If your pressure is low enough that it bottoms out periodically during rides, it will handle most of those duties all by itself.

    Good to still do a manual reset once in a while anyway though.

    Remove the top collar using an external bearing bottom bracket tool, and remove the split rings from the top end piece.

    Grab the bars, and forcibly cycle the fork downward a few times. Put the split rings back on, reassemble.

    Do be very careful re-mating the XLR with the top end, as you are screwing the collar back into place, be rotating the rebound knob, so you can feel it key, and drop into place. When you feel the clicks of the rebound knob working, it's keyed.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  75. #375
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Does anyone know the distance/length, from axle to top of the top crown, of the Lefty 2.0 in size SMALL that is coming on the F-Si?

    I'm trying to figure out the height of the handlebars as they compare to my current bike with standard fork. Don't want to ask my local dealer to order a very expensive bike if it won't fit me.


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  76. #376
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    Does anyone have a manual on servicing a 2013 XLR Carbon lefty? I'd prefer to give it ago before I send it away for a few weeks. Thanks

  77. #377
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    lefty XLR 2012 issue

    i am having trouble with my lefty XLR 2012. the fork is not returning during biking. it is about 80 / 90 % sagged. when i stand next to my bike it returns as it should. i have set the pressure on the correct value, but the problem persists.

    what can i do to solve this ?

  78. #378
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap View Post
    i am planning a special built ...

    can i remove all the internals from a Lefty ?
    Sounds like you want to build a rigid lefty.

    The damper & shaft are not particularly heavy, so replacing them with something strong enough to survive (aluminium) probably won't save you much weight.

  79. #379
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    Quote Originally Posted by Five Miles Out View Post
    Can anyone explain to me how to reset the bearings of a 2013 Lefty XLR Carbon?
    Some good videos on this on youtube.

  80. #380
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    Quote Originally Posted by keetoo View Post
    what can i do to solve this ?
    Sounds like either a seal that isn't doing it's job properly, or a broken Solo Air piston wave washer.

    Either is a cheap, quick fix, assuming your dealer is reasonably competent. It's not something that average consumer with standard tools will be able to address though, if that was your next question.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  81. #381
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    Quote Originally Posted by niftydog View Post
    Some good videos on this on youtube.
    Good in concept, but the hybrids don't reset that way.

    If you still have your owners manual they cover it in there.

    If not, the forks now have a reset function built in. As long as you run the fork soft enough to occasionally bottom it out, it will reset them 90%+ of the way with that alone.

    Periodical manual reset can be done by the same method as shown in the video, but you don't extend the fork to do it, you compress it with gusto instead....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  82. #382
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    I've got an older Lefty Max FFD that I've been working with and am having some issues. The fork has been rebuilt but the rebound function is not working. After some google searching I've found that I'm missing the three shims at the bottom of the piston seen in this picture (I'm repairing the damage done by someone who previously "worked" on the fork).



    Anyone know where I could get these shims? Am I SOL?
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  83. #383
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    Ah, the old shade tree mechanic, "I work on all my stuff, and know what I'm doing" routine, yeah, I feel your pain all too well.

    Good luck finding them, unless you have another one to rob them from.

    Me? I'd just punt and put a PBR in. Modern, lighter, air tuned, lockout, nice.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  84. #384
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Ah, the old shade tree mechanic, "I work on all my stuff, and know what I'm doing" routine, yeah, I feel your pain all too well.

    Good luck finding them, unless you have another one to rob them from.

    Me? I'd just punt and put a PBR in. Modern, lighter, air tuned, lockout, nice.....
    Well I did some experimenting and put a washer on the end where the shims should be to be sure its my problem. It is. Obviously the washer is too thick and does not deflect enough for fluid to pass. I'm looking into some shims built for motorcycle forks and it looks promising (I use to rebuild and tune MX forks).

    If that fails though I'll have to do the PBR upgrade. I was hoping to keep the cost of this project bike low but we will see.
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  85. #385
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    Anyone know of a shop in metro Chicago or Milwaukee that services Lefty's onsite?

    I've got a 2000 Super V 700sx that to my knowledge has never been serviced and would like to freshen it up this season.

  86. #386
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    I don't know if this has been asked before, but I would like to reduce the travel on my 2013 Aluminum PBR 100mm to 90 or 80mm. Does anyone know if this is possible. My end game is to lower or reduce the front end height.

  87. #387
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jetspeeder View Post
    I don't know if this has been asked before, but I would like to reduce the travel on my 2013 Aluminum PBR 100mm to 90 or 80mm. Does anyone know if this is possible. My end game is to lower or reduce the front end height.
    Reducing travel can be done by you, in about 5 minutes.

    Reducing height however, is a more involved process. Easy for someone with the tools, and parts, but not a simple snap, pop type job like travel reduction is....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  88. #388
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    Hey guys, im still havinbg issues with my 2014 scalpel. I did the bearing reset on it as follows. took air out of fork and did a few firm slams to bottom out. put air back in the fork but now I keep loosing air , anyone has had this problem ? and any solutions ? took to LBS but they say it needs a full rebuild and cannondale is completly pout of stock, I really dont believe the seals are shot as I really havent use the bike much. any help will be great.

  89. #389
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankycannon View Post
    Hey guys, im still havinbg issues with my 2014 scalpel. I did the bearing reset on it as follows. took air out of fork and did a few firm slams to bottom out. put air back in the fork but now I keep loosing air , anyone has had this problem ? and any solutions ? took to LBS but they say it needs a full rebuild and cannondale is completly pout of stock, I really dont believe the seals are shot as I really havent use the bike much. any help will be great.
    Problem since new, bad or damaged seal. Problem now, but not since new? Something else is going on. Responded on your other post just now too....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  90. #390
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    Hello,

    I've recently purchased a new scalpel 29er carbon frame (w/o any headset) and I want to fit my Lefty PBR '12 90mm to that frame.

    The thing is, Lefty used a tapered Project 321 adapter to be mounted to a chinese carbon (Hongfu FM-056) frame.

    I also own have 1 set of KP058 spares because I run my Jekyll '12 with 1 1/8 fork. I also have regular bearings from Jekyll, too.

    Which parts do I have to buy to run Lefty on a Scalpel frame? I still want to use the regular 1 1/8 stem.

    Thanks!

  91. #391
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    Quote Originally Posted by thresh View Post
    Hello
    Unless something has changed, the P321 tapered version is simply a 1 1/8" straight with an additional adapter spacer to bring it to the wider fitment at the bottom end.

    Thing is, you'll need other pieces to fit to the Cannondale as they are designed to work with their own steerer stem combos.

    Really want to use 1 1/8" stem? You'll need to buy the headset bearings and or cups anyway for the frame, then adapter pieces to fit into them.

    Problem Solvers makes a set for pressing into alloy frame headset cups, the carbon (and a number of the newer alloy frames too) now use integrated bearings.

    I'm not aware of an adapter set for that.

    Honestly, unless someone else chimes in with the part you need, you'd be far more easily riding if you just do the Cannondale SI stem/steerer....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  92. #392
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    Thank you MendonCycleSmith,

    so far I was kind of sort of able to assemble it, using the following parts:
    pressed-in cup with 12mm height from kp058 at the top, put a corresponding bearing and a compression ring
    bottom side: usual cannondale headshok bearing straight to the frame, and a project 312 rod w/ red washer ring.

    the only problem here I see is that I don't have a top cap that will fit in 2mm height... so that means the upper bearing will receive substantial amounts of dirt / water

    https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-v...401_004633.jpg

    setup has no noticeable play

    we have no cannondale dealers here like at all (eh, I'm in Russia, Moscow), so that's why I'm trying to come up with something semi-decent and then possibly move to proper solutions.

    Thank you again, much appreciated!

  93. #393
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    Hi, does anyone have instructions on removing the Damper on a lefty supermax? Does the usual Lefty castle tool work or do I have to use the new castle tool? Also is removal the same procedure as with my old max pbr?

  94. #394
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    Quote Originally Posted by thresh View Post
    the only problem here I see is that I don't have a top cap that will fit in 2mm height...
    Does the black piece that is barely visible at the bottom of the stem, move upward at all on the steerer?

    Looks like you're missing one of these.

    Cannondale Headshok/Lefty Headset Upper Bearing Seal for Aluminum Frames - QSMSEAL - CannondaleExperts.com
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  95. #395
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morgs010 View Post
    Hi, does anyone have instructions on removing the Damper on a lefty supermax? Does the usual Lefty castle tool work or do I have to use the new castle tool? Also is removal the same procedure as with my old max pbr?
    I don't, but yes, you do need a different pair of tools to get in, then the Super Castle to remove the damper.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  96. #396
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    Hey Guys still new to Lefty and was looking at getting another stem when I learned it looks like Cannondale has three different systems for the Lefty??
    Here is what I have....

  97. #397
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    You have what's known as the Headstock style.

    Simplest, easiest to swap out, etc.

    I know why (weight and schmoooth factor) but I wish they never did away with that type....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  98. #398
    mtbr member
    Reputation: XC Mike's Avatar
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    Sep 2004
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    596
    I take it the OPI system is the top of the line...
    Can my setup be upgraded and should it be upgraded???

  99. #399
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    15,382
    Lighter and more $.

    *Should* you upgrade? No.

    Do you want to? I can't answer that....

    Personally, I find the OPI stems to be a giant PITA when it comes to installation or removal, add that you need to buy more material and spend more to do it, just to change angle or length, and you can count me out.

    YMMV.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  100. #400
    mtbr member
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    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Posts
    6
    I hope this is the right place.

    I'm looking to install a 1 degree headset in my Trigger carbon team 27.5 but for teh life of me I can't find an adapter to allow this.

    Any help would be great

    Regards
    Marty

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