I have a Lefty ELO and would like to change the oil myself to improve / customize dampening. I keep my bearing races clean and greased and it holds air fine but I just can't find a guide for changing the oil. Any sort of rebuild/maintenance information for this shok would be greatly appreciated :)
Max 140 29er "DIVE"
I had my lbs convert my 2010 max 140 pbr to 29er for me. I have a hand full of rides on it and it just seems to dive to quickly. It seems to be to active. They said they put something in the air chamber, but I'm not sure. I weigh 210lbs riding with gear. Should I be doing something different? A bigger spacer in the air chamber or heavier oil? I wish it felt like my max 130 w/ Heavy spring.
I have noticed a bit of this with my PBR
I converted my PBR myself. I added what I calculated to be the correct amount of elastomer material to the air chamber. The lefty still seems a little too plush. I think the sag is roughly correct. I am going to try to use a little more pressure. I only weigh 180 without gear.
Perhaps the air pressures in the manual don't really work. I need to think about this for a bit. I wonder if Craig will chime in.
Can someone help with this query please?
I am fitting a Lefty Spped Fox RLC 110 on my 2005 model Scalpel that had a DLR (as in here). This DLR has a Aluminium spacer ring below the lower headset bearing on the steerer tube.
Must I use this when fitting the Speed Fox RLC? Can't see any reference to it....
Thanks in advance.
Spy infiltration here
I've never ridden a Lefty, just gonna say it now; never seen one around here, nor are my LBSs C-dale dealers. But I do have legitimate questions about the Lefty:
Does it ride the same as a conventional fork?
Take the Lefty MAX 130 apart
Im upgrading my airpiston on my MAX 130 and saw when looking down the inside of the fork that one of the races to the needlebearing was 1 cm above the others so I tried to split the innertube from the outer to fix this - with no success.
I removed the snapring under the rubber booth, and tried to pull it apart, didnt work! :)
How do I do it?
Remove the lockclip, the bussing and the needle-race holder by pushing all the races into the middle.
Originally Posted by fredde_nu
I have a carbon Lefty SL 110 (2008) which I have bought used, and no idea when the last service was, if any at all. Dont know if it matters to my question, but now you know.
I did a bearing reset according to your reset guide (very nice, thanks :D).
And now a few weeks later, the lockout has a kind of sag, before it really locks completely. It is about 10-15 mm before it locks.
I have an alu lefty which is newly serviced, and feels really nice compared to my carbon lefty. And it locks immediatly, without the sag.
Im afraid I have dont something wrong perhaps, while resetting til bearings.
I went to my LBS and he said with just testing the fork, that I properly needed a new cartridge. But I would really like to save the 300 dollars it would cost me.
Any ideas? :)
Hello, I have what I think is a Lefty 110 DLR2 from 2009. it has no coil so I assume it's a solo air. Thing is, it only compresses 90 mm. Could it be a Lefty with just this much travel? If so, can it be extended to 110 mm? i've dissasembled it and there are no C spacers. Could bearing migration decrease so much travel? The cartridge says DLR2/-1-012009
Hallo, a couple of questions about the leftys:
how much is the a/c lenght of:
- the 2011 Lefty PBR 120
- the 2011 Lefty Max 140mm
- the old Lefty Max SPV 140mm
How the SPV rides compared to the PBR solo air and what about its 29er conversion?
a question :
with bearing migrated a Lefty is shorter than normal
but the travel is shorter too ?
Eli, yes travel is shortened the same amount.
Originally Posted by eliflap
2002 Lefty DLR Rebuild information wanted
I just picked up a 2002 Jekyll 1000 with a Lefty TI. After reviewing this forum and looking at the Cannondale site. I believe this Lefty is the 2.0 DLR with 100mm travel.
Can someone correct me if I'm mistaken please.
I am looking for service docs for this older lefty fork and am hoping someone can direct me to the right location.
Thanks in advance,
Help please! I am in the middle of rebuilding my 2009 Lefty Speed Carbon SL OPI SoloAir (wow, that's a mouthfull!). The damper cap (white plastic cap) came unscrewed somehow, and puked the oil all over the inside of the boot, effectively washing all the lube off the bearings. I caught it quick enough that there is no damage.
However, I am struggling with putting the upper/lower back together. My inner bearing race setup appears to be very different from the photos shown here. There is a captive washer type arrangement at the top of the inner races, similar to that found at the bottom of the outer races, and this is preventing me from being able to "slide" the bearings/inner leg into the outer.
There's a lip on the captive washer that will damage or foul the bearing as I try and slide it together. I cannot install that washer after the upper/lower are mated, as it would be much too far down inside the leg cavity for me to reach.
I can't perform these 3 steps:
because of this:
What do I do?
OK, I found out on my own. Brandon at Cannondale talked me through it. I have to put this puppy together without the retainer, and then fish the damned thing into place 6" down inside the outer.
Wish me luck!
'08 DLR2 Lockout Issue / Weeping Oil Question
Good day all, I had the Scalpel in my grade eight science class to demonstrate hydraulics and pneumatics. Low and behold the lock out lever did not function correctly on my 2008 Lefty DLR2. The fork now moves through 1/2 of its travel and then locks out. Even when locked out there is give to the fork. Previously, the lockout would not allow any travel or movement. I brought the bike home tonight only to find oil weeping out of my top seal cap (Part #1020341) next to the shraeder plug on the lower leg assembly. Will filling the bottom of the air piston with 20 cc's of fork oil fix the problem? Or is the issue the oil in the damper unit? I have full access to all Cannondale specific tooling and I am a competent mechanic. It has been a few years since I last tore down Marzocchi Bombers but with all the tools and repair parts, those forks were stupid easy to service. It'll be the first time on a Lefty. I need your help Obi-Wan, you're my only hope.
Jason, your Lefty is 3 years old and is long overdue for a service. The damper has leaked oil which is bound to happen after that much use. Also, the damper oil has leaked into the bearings and has ruined the grease. The fix - send it to Mendoncyclesmith. Craig will set you up quick for a reasonable charge. I promise, you will not regret this action.
BTW, I taught 8th grade physical science last year. This year, I am in high school :thumbsup:
I have a Carbon Max with a small split in the boot. I ordered a replacement boot, but i think I bought the wrong one. The item I have is QC678, but I think i should have bought KF222 instead.
Will the QC678 item work with my fork? If not, what is the difference between the two boots? I am assuming length?
The issue below has been resolved by 88.
I have a brand new 2011 Lefty Max XLR. I wanted to remove the damper to give the damper to tuning at 88.
In doing so I noticed that the black top cap (at the top of the upper damper shaft where the split rings are installed) is seriously off centered versus the Lefy outer tube. I need to push the black top cap of the damper side ways aprox 4mm to reach the center line of the Lefty outer tube to be able to get the split rings into the fork and close it... That does not see right to me.. By doing so side force will be put on the damper shaft.
Does anyone know what the reason is for such a misalignemnt and how it could be fixed ?
The Carbon upper tube on my lefty max has a small chip/scratch on it. When i bought it used, the seller told me he had it checked by a cannondale rep who told him that the damage was not structural and would not affect performance. Is the carbon a structural element of the fork or more of a dressing?
Is Cannondale dumping the Lefty?
I'm in the SF Bay area and I've noticed that the largest dealer has fewer C'dales with the lefty. It also seems like C'dale is only putting it on shorter travel bikes.
I hope not...
2010 Carbon Lefty DLR Lockout
Hey Mendon. Some one posted this earlier and I didn't see a response.
" did a bearing reset according to your reset guide (very nice, thanks ).
And now a few weeks later, the lockout has a kind of sag, before it really locks completely. It is about 10-15 mm before it locks."
I just did a bearing migration reset with good results, but I'm having the same condition as the above quote.
The bearing reset was done to correct the lockout sag problem, plus the length of the lefty seemed to be decreased. I don't feel any knocking or sag when the lefty is pushed up and down, It's only when the lockout lever is engaged that the lefty has a sag and slight rebound knock. Your imput is extremely appreciated.
Ok, total suspension noob here as ive alwAys had rigids. I have a 2009 speed DLR lefty with 80mm of travel. It has only about 200 miles on it and has only been riden by a lightweight rider. I set the sag at 20 percent and im quite happy with how it performs.
But, there are a couple problems and im OCD about fixing them but have no clue how to go about it. First of all, when it is locked out it gives about 10mm travel. And it seems to have some forward/backward play in it somewhere but im not sure where. I put grease inside the boot recently, but it still feels very slightly rough. What do i need to do? I dont mind working on it myself at all unless its uber complicated.
Thanks in advance!
PBR max damping cartridge question
Hi all, I have striped my Lefty in order to replace needle bearings and pitted races. Upon removing the damping cartridge I discovered a trashed O ring trapped under the damping cartridge washer. (See remains in centre of photo). The PBR manual says that the washer should be bonded on with loctite 401 but makes no mention of an O ring in this location. I can only assume an O ring is now used to hold the washer in place and this became trapped and tore when I unscrewed the damping cartridge. I can not see where else the O ring would have come from. Can anyone please confirm my theory?????
Secondly, the damping cartridge works fine and operates smoothly. While I have it stripped should I open it up and replace the oil or wait until next service? I know cannondale reccomend a full service every 100hrs, but I figure with no leaks and smooth operation maybe I am best to run with it for now. Any thoughts advice much appreciated.
Oh, Lefty is a 2009 PBR MAX 130mm Alloy.
Thanks in advance
kiwi, yes I am sure your theory is correct. The o-ring would serve no other purpose at all. I think using something like locktite to keep the washer in place would be better. I took my o-ring out and all is well.
As far as changing out the oil - do you have an oil cap remover?
Thanks Yogiprophet, No oil cap remover as yet. They are an expensive tool for a lump of plastic and a few pins. They retail here in NZ for nearly $90 bucks. I may have a go at machining one up at work, yet. I have made my own shaft clamps so should get my act together and do the oil cap wrench next. Then I can finally get some riding done.
Tell me, is the bleed screw on the oil cylinder used to burp out any air after replacing the damper oil?
The great thing about the Cdale oil cap remover is it made out of nylon so it won't scratch the shaft. Although I have used a green Park pin spanner to remove the cap, you have to make sure you file away as much material from between the pins (sticking out inside the pins) as possible. It is a pain but it works.
Originally Posted by kiwi lefty
I've never used the bleed screw and I haven't had any problems with air. I just cycled the shaft, filled the oil to the top, and when the air settled I screwed in the cap which pushes the excess oil and any air out of the damper.
The best description of an oil change I have found is here- http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...86994#poststop
Lefty wheel hub bearing cap
Is the lefty hub bearing cap (the one that sits inside of the rotor) necessary? Mine makes an obnoxious wheezing sound after a bit of riding. Can I safely remove it?
You do not need it, but it helps keep crap out of the bearing.
Originally Posted by nbwallace
Phil Wood Tenacious Oil
Thanks for your help and link to the oil change post, Yogiprophet. Saved me a bit of time trawling through the posts.
Originally Posted by yogiprophet
Can you help me with an alternative oil to Phil Woods. Can not find anyone who stocks it over here. The remaining stuff that was left inside the fork when I removed the schrader plug assembly, seemed to be almost the same consistency of chainsaw bar lube.
Not sure if there are any nasties in bar oil that would harm the seals or plastic. Would Fox float suspension fluid do the same job?
Ultra PBR 120 help!
After finishing a rough 70k race yesterday I noticed a strange feeling in my Lefty When compressed there was an inch or so or light resistance followed by firmer resistance through the rest of it's travel. I assumed it needed a bearing reset and so performed a quick one. After pressurizing the fork the feeling was still there. I slid the boot down to make sure things were clean and tidy and noticed that the marks left in the grease on one race seemed higher than the other three. I double checked the reset measurement and it is correct. I then cycled the fork a few times with no air pressure and the front inner race is higher by just under a cm than the other three.
So my questions are:
1. How do I align this bearing?
2. Would this be the causing of the soft then firm travel. If it isn't - what are potential causes?
No Pop-top on 2010 Carbon Ultra 120
Nothing happens when I press it.The button does not engage and the rebound knob does not pop up. I
Is this an adjustment or part replacement? Any danger in continuing to ride the bike?
Thanks in advance for advice.
does anybody have a internal manual of the lefty 140pbr??? i would like to open it and make it a manitenance
I have a 2003 Lefty (on a F800 from that year) that does not lock out anymore—even after a complete rebuild with all new seals.
Now the fork appears to be leaking oil out of the air valve at the bottom.
The LBS that did the rebuild claims that the only real solution is a replacement with a 2012 Lefty Speed 100 PBR, or a whole new bike.
So, given the state of my fork, what's the worst that could happen? Should I just suck it up, part out the 2003 rig, and just buy a whole new bike with the latest and greatest component set?
Lefty on Trek fuel ex 9.9 2010
Hello all bit of a strange one here, I have a fuel ex 9.9 2010 frame which I am currently building up. I would like to try and install a 120mm cannondale carbon lefty fork on the 9.9 frame but wanted to enquire about the carbon frame being able to handle the stress although I cannot see the lefty fork asserting any more strain than a conventional fork and the cannondale carbon frames seem to deal fine with lefty forks and trek carbon is meant to be extremely strong.
Secondly to this the clearance between the crowns on the lefty fork are perfect for a nearly flush fit on the 9.9 headtube with the headset removed but won't fit with the cane creek xx zero stack headset fitted as it pertrudes too much from the headtube, is there anyway that bearings could be placed directly into the headtube or would it be possible to machine my own bearing cups to the same size but without the pertruding parts to create an actually flush integrated headset much like how cannondale do.
If you could contact me with your thoughts I would be very grateful, I also understand that any advice recieved or used is currently hypothetical and at my own risk and may void any warrenties.
I have a lefty max alloy and everytime i fill with air at the bottom of shock as soon as i disconnect the shock pump it lets all the air out?
The bike is almost new never been used for over a year its a Rize 3 really am lost with this its not my pump as its fine on my wifes bike and the rear shock rp2
Just to add everytime i reconnect the shock pump its at 0 psi could it be something simple as valve broke??? As lockout works fine
Sounds like you need a new valve core. Try that and see how it goes. Some stick out too far and when the pump is released, the air is allowed to escape. When I had this problem, I had a few different types of valve cores (I got from a tire store) and I tried them all until I found one that fit flush or lower than flush (inside).
Originally Posted by grchmason
To save you all the suspense, I decided to stick with my trusty F800.
Originally Posted by liscio
I'd have to spend quite a bit of money just to buy a near-identical bike today (probably the Flash F2), when I'd rather be moving up. Since I don't view today's frames as much of an upgrade (if at all, considering the non-US build), it was a pretty obvious choice.
I put in the order for a 2012 Lefty Speed PBR alloy (which will undoubtedly shed some weight and gain a lot of performance) with a really good price from the LBS (who basically credited me for the price of the Lefty rebuild earlier this year in addition Cannondale's trade-in discount).
I also got a screaming deal on a new wheelset (2008 Mavic Crossmax), and have a new crankset on the way (2010 Race Face Deus XC). For kicks I also picked up an XT cassette, and a new chain.
I'm still under the price of buying a new bike (which wouldn't be nearly as well spec'ed), and I get to keep a beautiful frame out of the landfill. Yay!
is there any tool list needed for servicing lefty....
Does anyone have a manual or faq about the Lefty DLR 100 (2004 model) handy?
Trying to find out how many PSI to put in it.
What top seal cap do I need for my SI Integration headset?
Cannondale SI 1.5-inch Headset on eBay!
Part # ???
Where can I buy one online?
Upgrading to a new lefty! :)
Hi people, was wondering, I have a 2006 Rush and was thinking about upgrading to a 2011 lefty speed carbon XLR, would it be easy as just swapping out the lefties or do i require a new stem?
And after reading the horror story of someone in this forum getting their lefty mangled by their LBS removing it, i was thinking of removing/installing the lefty myslelf instead, is it easy for the lefty to come out/in on my 06 rush?
thanks in advance! :thumbsup:
What headset will fit ?
I currently have a Lefty Speed 110 w/DLR on my On-One Scandal and I have used the steerer tube from Project321 and obviously a normal 1.125" headset.
I am now considering getting a frame built with a 1.5" headtube instead of the normal 1.125" and I've read up that the standard bearings from a 1.5" headset don't necessarily fit the normal Lefty steerer tube.
My question is thus, apart from Cannondale, what headset can I get that will fit the Lefty Steerer tube and what stem? Or should I just use a 1.125" headtube to alleviate problems?
Installing an HD208?
I'm looking for some instructions for installing the Outer Race Clip (HD208) in a Lefty DLR. I have looked around for some information but can't find anything other than 'install the clip' which sounds simple enough but the clip is larger than the inside diameter of the fork.
Any information you can provide will be greatly appreciated.
Basic lefty wheel question
sorry, tryingh to delete this one.
Basic lefty wheel installation q
quick question about front wheel installation for the lefty. When installing, should the fixing bolt stop, or, will it keep spinning, but with resistance? Often times I notice the fixing bolt is a teeny bit loose when removing the wheel to put it back on the rack, so, I'm concerned if I'm cross threading or not putting the wheel on correctly.
Yes, the bolt should come to a complete stop, ideally at the recommended torque setting. It should not continue spinning at all. Either the hub isn't fully engaged on the spindle, or you have indeed cross threaded the hub and will need a new one. How does the visible thread look? do you see any metal shavings come out of the hub if you give it a knock?