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  1. #701
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    The regular adapters for 'normal' forks won't work as far as I know.

    I've searched most of the well known Cannondale specific shops online and could not find, or even the mention of a 203mm adapter for the Supermax.

    There is nothing in any of the official Supermax owner manuals about a 203mm adapter, only 180mm is listed

    Eventually I gave up looking and kept the 180mm.

    The only place that did turn up something was from the Project 321 website, but again it is only mentioned and not an actual item listed for sale with a part number, price or even a picture.

    I'd say your best bet is to ask them about it. Have a look here at the features section, its the last item listed.

    PROJECT 321 | Products: Cannondale 2015 Carbon SuperMax Lefty 650b
    The names have been changed to protect the innocent...

  2. #702
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    Quote Originally Posted by r34 gtr View Post
    Hi - what does everyone use to flush their lefty 2.0 other then RSP flush?
    I use shimano degreaser

  3. #703
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    One more lefty 2.0 question - do I need to put any oil in the lower leg where the 2spring is or just grease?

    Thanks

  4. #704
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    Quote Originally Posted by r34 gtr View Post
    Hi - what does everyone use to flush their lefty 2.0 other then RSP flush?

    Thanks Steve
    Cannondale's tech videos indicate to use isopropyl alcohol.

  5. #705
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    Quote Originally Posted by r34 gtr View Post
    One more lefty 2.0 question - do I need to put any oil in the lower leg where the 2spring is or just grease?

    Thanks
    No oil in there. Coat the o rings with something like slick honey, and I lubricate the air spring seal and upper air piston inner seals with a little Phil's Tenacious oil. Torque your damper back in to 27nm / 20 ft lb. add 10cc of 20wt suspension fluid or float fluid, and carry on.

  6. #706
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    Thanks 👍

  7. #707
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    My first lefty(xlr 2.0 100mm) , my first problem. After 300 Km riding fork started bottom out at 7 cm travel. The air pressure in the air chamber is the same as it should be. What's the problem?

  8. #708
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreicha View Post
    My first lefty(xlr 2.0 100mm) , my first problem. After 300 Km riding fork started bottom out at 7 cm travel. The air pressure in the air chamber is the same as it should be. What's the problem?
    Have you done a bearing reset?

    Bike upside down. Shockpump on. Note the pressure (if you like it). Let all the air out. Remove pump. Bike rubber side down. Compress fork hard + fast until it bottoms out. Repeat a few times.

    Bike upside down again. Travel should now be back to 100mm. Air fork back up again.

    If this solves your issue, consider letting a bit of pressure out so that you can bottom Lefty out during a ride, removing the need to do it manually.

  9. #709
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    Quote Originally Posted by dreicha View Post
    My first lefty(xlr 2.0 100mm) , my first problem. After 300 Km riding fork started bottom out at 7 cm travel. The air pressure in the air chamber is the same as it should be. What's the problem?
    What Howards said - also could be broken air spring wavy washer. There's a mandatory upgrade/recall going on for these forks to install a new design air spring, should be free of charge, or relatively inexpensive. If you don't have the "2 spring" logo sticker on the front of your fork, then you should get the upgrade done.

  10. #710
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    Thanks, it worked. It took 1 minute to reset

  11. #711
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    Happy days

  12. #712
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    Slight sag in Lefty Supermax 2.0

    Hey guys, I have a 2015 lefty Supermax 140mm that seem to have about a 10mm sag without me even sitting on the bike almost feel like a floating point before the fork engages. If I lift the bike the sag goes away... the bike is a 2015 Trigger carbon 2.

    Wave spring replaced, solo air o-rings replaced, bumpers replaced... not sure what can cause this.
    Any input is greatly appreciated.

    Cheers!

  13. #713
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    I'd do a manual bearing reset first. You said the wave washer was replaced, but if you don't have the new 2 Spring, have that done, while the shop is in there they can take another look at it.

  14. #714
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    I'd do a manual bearing reset first. You said the wave washer was replaced, but if you don't have the new 2 Spring, have that done, while the shop is in there they can take another look at it.
    Thanks for the quick response. I did the bearing reset and the fork behaved the same. Thinking of sending it in to have the 2Spring installed and hopefully that will solve the issue.I'm thinking there could be something else that may be causing that behavior.

    Cheers!

  15. #715
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    Hello all
    I am strongly considering installing a supermax 160 27.5" on my old 26" jekyll, however I would absolutely need to lower the travel to 150mm to keep the front down.
    I know the travel isn't adjustable officially, but would it be possible with internal modifications?
    How does the positive-negative air chamber balancing works? It's a channle on the inside of the stanchion like in some rock shox forks or are there two valves?
    If I lower the fork, could it cause problems to the hydraulic cartridge?
    Could it cause issues during regular maintenance procedures?

  16. #716
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    Hello all
    I am strongly considering installing a supermax 160 27.5" on my old 26" jekyll, however I would absolutely need to lower the travel to 150mm to keep the front down.
    I know the travel isn't adjustable officially, but would it be possible with internal modifications?
    How does the positive-negative air chamber balancing works? It's a channle on the inside of the stanchion like in some rock shox forks or are there two valves?
    If I lower the fork, could it cause problems to the hydraulic cartridge?
    Could it cause issues during regular maintenance procedures?
    Hi there from what I know the damper cartridge determines the usable travel for the bike for e.g. my Trigger can go up to 160mm in total travel because it has the physical stantion length but the damper installed is a 140 damper. Others can chime in if this is not the case.
    There is a solo air assembly at the end of the damper that balances the positive and negative air in the chamber.
    Consider also that that fork may change the bike's geometry and ride characteristics. Hope this helps!

  17. #717
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    Quote Originally Posted by estyjam@gmail.com View Post
    There is a solo air assembly at the end of the damper that balances the positive and negative air in the chamber.
    So that means there's a groove in the inner stanchion to allow air pressure to equalize at full extension?

    Looking at the exploded view in the manual, it looks like it could be a matter of just adding a spacer between the upper seal head and the damping cartridge, and modifying or remaking the air piston (shortening it) to compensate and keep the seal at the correct height to keep the solo air working.

  18. #718
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    Super helpful thread! Thanks!

  19. #719
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    Hello all
    I am strongly considering installing a supermax 160 27.5" on my old 26" jekyll, however I would absolutely need to lower the travel to 150mm to keep the front down.
    I know the travel isn't adjustable officially, but would it be possible with internal modifications?
    How does the positive-negative air chamber balancing works? It's a channle on the inside of the stanchion like in some rock shox forks or are there two valves?
    If I lower the fork, could it cause problems to the hydraulic cartridge?
    Could it cause issues during regular maintenance procedures?
    I also have a Lefty I was thinking of reducing the axle to crown dimension. Does any one know how the negative side is charged? If I add another top out bumper or get a longer upper air seal it may not let air get to the other side of the piston.

  20. #720
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    So that means there's a groove in the inner stanchion to allow air pressure to equalize at full extension?

    Looking at the exploded view in the manual, it looks like it could be a matter of just adding a spacer between the upper seal head and the damping cartridge, and modifying or remaking the air piston (shortening it) to compensate and keep the seal at the correct height to keep the solo air working.
    It's not a groove in the stanchion, the solo air valve opens when the air piston tops out on the bumber.
    You can reduce the travel by simply adding a spacer between the cartridge and the upper air seal.

    Quote Originally Posted by Integrexman View Post
    I also have a Lefty I was thinking of reducing the axle to crown dimension. Does any one know how the negative side is charged? If I add another top out bumper or get a longer upper air seal it may not let air get to the other side of the piston.

  21. #721
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    So that means there's a groove in the inner stanchion to allow air pressure to equalize at full extension?

    Looking at the exploded view in the manual, it looks like it could be a matter of just adding a spacer between the upper seal head and the damping cartridge, and modifying or remaking the air piston (shortening it) to compensate and keep the seal at the correct height to keep the solo air working.

    To make the fork shorter you need a longer upper air seal. Your travel will be reduced based on the additional length of the upper air seal.

    Attachment 1104642

    To reduce the travel only, you need to add travel spacers at the top of the damper shaft above the damper cartridge.

    I do not see how the balancing of the positive/negative air chamber will be affected by any of these modifications.

  22. #722
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    Quote Originally Posted by estyjam@gmail.com View Post
    To make the fork shorter you need a longer upper air seal. Your travel will be reduced based on the additional length of the upper air seal.

    Attachment 1104642

    To reduce the travel only, you need to add travel spacers at the top of the damper shaft above the damper cartridge.

    I do not see how the balancing of the positive/negative air chamber will be affected by any of these modifications.
    I can't see your attachment, however I understand what you're saying.
    I would use the fork with a 26" wheel, so the best would be to decrease the axle to crown by 10mm while keeping 160mm of travel, which means to allow the fork to compress 10mm more than normal... from what I understand, if I could move the silver collar down the cartridge by that amount (if it's even possible) I would obtain just that, but would the stanchion slide 100m further inside? Is the bottom-out bumper the one just under the top cap? Probably the square sides of the stanchion aren't just long enough...

  23. #723
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    Quote Originally Posted by romphaia View Post
    I can't see your attachment, however I understand what you're saying.
    I would use the fork with a 26" wheel, so the best would be to decrease the axle to crown by 10mm while keeping 160mm of travel, which means to allow the fork to compress 10mm more than normal... from what I understand, if I could move the silver collar down the cartridge by that amount (if it's even possible) I would obtain just that, but would the stanchion slide 100m further inside? Is the bottom-out bumper the one just under the top cap? Probably the square sides of the stanchion aren't just long enough...

    With the 160mm damper that is in the fork, if you reduce the ride height you will also reduce the travel. By installing the longer upper air seal to reduce height, you are pulling the damper shaft further down into the fork's stantion... less travel!

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-damper-parts-160.png

    Remember the damper cartridge is bolted onto the top of the stantion so your travel is the amount by which the damper shaft can slide into the damper before bottoming out as seen in the diagram. And yes the bottom out bumper is below the top cap.

    Hope this helps!

  24. #724
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    Quote Originally Posted by estyjam@gmail.com View Post
    ...
    Hope this helps!
    Perfectly clear, thank you.
    I was also considering to move the threaded sleeve on the damper cartridge up by 10mm, that would shorten the fork without alter the travel, but I don't know it the stanchion can slide 10mm further inside. The square sides of the stanchion might not be long enough.

  25. #725
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    What is the difference between XC+ tune damper and Trail+ tune damper ?

  26. #726
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    would not screwing the cartridge all the way result in the same behavior? I just had the 2S spring recall and lost 20mm or travel. I can see the top of the cartridge "castle" nut. Before I couldn't see that. Leads me think that the shop has not fully threaded the cartridge into the lefty top housing.

  27. #727
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcko View Post
    would not screwing the cartridge all the way result in the same behavior? I just had the 2S spring recall and lost 20mm or travel. I can see the top of the cartridge "castle" nut. Before I couldn't see that. Leads me think that the shop has not fully threaded the cartridge into the lefty top housing.
    Typically it's not hard to see the top of the cartridge if you have your upper collar off - remember that fork position moves the cartridge up and down with the inner fork leg. If you compress the fork completely, the cartridge is only ~4 inches below the top of the fork. If you have lost nearly an inch of travel, I'd first follow the appropriate steps for a manual bearing reset, and make sure you have the proper measurement of stanchion for your particular fork. If that doesn't fix it, or you can't get to the proper measurement with the reset - take the fork back in for them to look at.

  28. #728
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    If I have a head tube that is ~115mm and a lefty supermax fork with clamp spacing of 134mm, can I make this work? Is it a matter of spacers? Or would this not be recommended?
    Thanks?

  29. #729
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG718 View Post
    If I have a head tube that is ~115mm and a lefty supermax fork with clamp spacing of 134mm, can I make this work? Is it a matter of spacers? Or would this not be recommended?
    Thanks?
    Depending on your frame - typically just a spacer solution. That's how the cannondale "Lefty for all" conversion system works, and I think that's how Project 321 handles it as well.

  30. #730
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG718 View Post
    If I have a head tube that is ~115mm and a lefty supermax fork with clamp spacing of 134mm, can I make this work? Is it a matter of spacers? Or would this not be recommended?
    Thanks?
    check your total stack height (headtube + complete headset), if it's less then 137mm you can make it work with just some spacers, no problem.

  31. #731
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    Quote Originally Posted by savo View Post
    check your total stack height (headtube + complete headset), if it's less then 137mm you can make it work with just some spacers, no problem.
    It'd be a Tallboy 3. I'm not sure I'd be concerned that the fork is too small... more concerned that clamp spacing would be too big. Cannondale's headtube size is larger than a comparably sized Santa Cruz, I believe.

  32. #732
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    Quote Originally Posted by BJG718 View Post
    It'd be a Tallboy 3. I'm not sure I'd be concerned that the fork is too small... more concerned that clamp spacing would be too big. Cannondale's headtube size is larger than a comparably sized Santa Cruz, I believe.
    Looking at SC's site for the Tallboy3 - headtube length is 100mm for a Med/Lg and uses a Cane Creek IS41 upper headset which adds ~9mm of stack height. Bottom is an IS52 which CC says is a 1mm stack height. So - you're at ~110mm total stack height. Rest will need spacers to take up the difference.

  33. #733
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    Quote Originally Posted by rcko View Post
    would not screwing the cartridge all the way result in the same behavior? I just had the 2S spring recall and lost 20mm or travel. I can see the top of the cartridge "castle" nut. Before I couldn't see that. Leads me think that the shop has not fully threaded the cartridge into the lefty top housing.

    turned out that mechanic installed a spacer to reduce the travel after misunderstanding my sag mark request.

    Spacer removed and now travel is normal.

  34. #734
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    Stripped Rebound Knob Set Scew - HELP !
    I have a 2008 29er hardtail with a Lefty (80mm travel).

    Have been successfully maintaining the fork for years (with help from this thread) but either I over-tightened or got rust/something in my rebound knob set screw. It uses a little 1.5mm hex head, and I stripped the screw trying to remove it. ARRGG. My bad. I can turn the rebound knob such that I can get a screwdriver under the lip and perhaps pry it off, but concerned about bending or damaging the fork innards. Any advice on getting this thing off ? I tried stuffing steel wool in there as "filler", but that didn't work. The usual remedies for removing stripped screws don't work because the screw is down in a hole in the knob. One can't even see it. Any advice welcome. This must be a sign I need a new bike.

  35. #735
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    Try an SAE allen set. The similarly sized one is slightly larger, often gives you that one more time, you need.

    Then either source a new set screw, or just get a new knob.....

    Beyond that, careful drill time, and then a new knob.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  36. #736
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    Thank you Mendon !

  37. #737
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCinFL View Post
    Stripped Rebound Knob Set Scew - HELP !
    I have a 2008 29er hardtail with a Lefty (80mm travel).

    Have been successfully maintaining the fork for years (with help from this thread) but either I over-tightened or got rust/something in my rebound knob set screw. It uses a little 1.5mm hex head, and I stripped the screw trying to remove it. ARRGG. My bad. I can turn the rebound knob such that I can get a screwdriver under the lip and perhaps pry it off, but concerned about bending or damaging the fork innards. Any advice on getting this thing off ? I tried stuffing steel wool in there as "filler", but that didn't work. The usual remedies for removing stripped screws don't work because the screw is down in a hole in the knob. One can't even see it. Any advice welcome. This must be a sign I need a new bike.
    If you cannot remove the set screw as is, one suggestion would be to use a dremmel and cut a channel across the top of the screw so you can use a flat blade screwdriver to unscrew it. This method worked for me most times I damage the head of a small screw. If you scratch the release push button in the process you can find that on the internet for cheap.

    Hope this helps!

  38. #738
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    Can't do that.

    Head of the set screw is inside a hole, a few mm's deep....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  39. #739
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    Might also try a tiny left hand drill bit/ extractor. Cheap kit here: Left Hand Drill Bit Set 13 Pc

  40. #740
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    Been there, done that. The taper hits the outer edge of the knobs hole before the thing engages. Don't waste your $...

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  41. #741
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    Anyone know first hand if a lefty 2.0 27.5 100mm could be converted to a 29? I was going to send it out to have the air spring updated and figured it'd be a good time to have it modified. My son is on a 2016 Small FSi and I want to change wheel size. I really think the small frame from 2015 to 2016 remained the same and they just changed the wheel size. I have already stuff a 29 rear wheel in there with plenty of clearance around the stays

    TIA

  42. #742
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    Quote Originally Posted by ejreyes6 View Post
    Anyone know first hand if a lefty 2.0 27.5 100mm could be converted to a 29? I was going to send it out to have the air spring updated and figured it'd be a good time to have it modified. My son is on a 2016 Small FSi and I want to change wheel size. I really think the small frame from 2015 to 2016 remained the same and they just changed the wheel size. I have already stuff a 29 rear wheel in there with plenty of clearance around the stays

    TIA
    Should work may need to add some cartridge spacers at the top to prevent the larger wheel from contacting the bottom of the steerer.

    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...151215T165638Z

  43. #743
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    It need to go to Cannondale to have the bottom out points reworked, in order to maintain the "automatic reset" functionality it came with.

    If you don't care about that, and are okay with doing manual resets, then yes, space accordingly, and ride.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  44. #744
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    Thanks I'd rather not limit has travel so I'll send it in to get reworked. Hopefully the cost isn't too much.

    Thanks again


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  45. #745
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    As published, there are geometry differences between the '15 (29er), and '16 (27.5) size smalls. Not tons, but some - almost half an inch less BB drop on the '16, and a longer actual top tube length in my mind means they had to scrunch the triangle downward a bit to get to the same 12.1" BB height for the 2 bikes regardless of which tire size it was running. If these geo numbers are accurate I'd expect the bike to be taller on standover, and you'd be raising that "down low" CG feel that it currently has.

    How much does it affect it? Who knows, I'm just going by the numbers.

  46. #746
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    Thank for the input. I've been going over the geo changes my self. Currently with 2.1 racing ralph the bb height is actually below 12".

  47. #747
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    In the process of rebuilding my lefty and had a few questions...

    Lots of digging and no definitive answer as to whether it is possible to increase the travel of a 2013 XLR 100 Hybrid to 110mm? Is it just as simple as removing 1 of the 3 spacers on the damper shaft?

    Not too concerned with tire contacting bottom of steerer tube area, with the damper removed and fork fully depressed there is still as least 10mm of clearance here... Really makes me wonder why those 3 spacers are needed when the fork will not physically travel far enough for my tire (2.4 Conti XKing) to hit the steerer tube (or even come close).

    Read a thread talking about "modifying" the upper air seal but not sure how well that information pertains to the hybrid lefty... My upper air seal is 58mm.

    Lastly if anyone has a good link for instruction on changing damper oil it would be much appreciated.

    Lots of good information on here. Appreciate everyones input.

  48. #748
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    Quote Originally Posted by neumanno View Post
    Read a thread talking about "modifying" the upper air seal but not sure how well that information pertains to the hybrid lefty... My upper air seal is 58mm.
    This will help you understand how the damper fits inside the lefty...
    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...150820T111337Z

    The upper air seal does control how far into the travel the fork goes and the bottom out spacers are a safeguard to protect the wheel from contacting the bottom of the stem... I would consult a Cannondale service center before making any modifications.

    Also, if you haven't bled a damper before it can get tricky. A good shop will tell you if the fork can give you an extra 10mm travel... they can do the 100hr service which should include changing the damper oil.

    Sorry if this didn't help much but sometimes it is less frustration if we let the experts do it, and you get someone to blame

  49. #749
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    Can anyone think of a reason why a 160mm Lefty converted to 150mm wouldn't work on a 2017 Trek Remedy?

    The offset and axle-crown would be close enough; so I wouldn't anticipate any problems with the straight down tube, but this knock-block thing is pretty confusing.

  50. #750
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheyLookLikeUs View Post
    Can anyone think of a reason why a 160mm Lefty converted to 150mm wouldn't work on a 2017 Trek Remedy?

    The offset and axle-crown would be close enough; so I wouldn't anticipate any problems with the straight down tube, but this knock-block thing is pretty confusing.
    That is, I don't think the wheel striking the frame will be an issue. And if I can find one of these I think it'll all work out.

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