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  1. #326
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    I have a problem
    After oil change and disassembly fork,I mixed shims stuck of rebaund and compression and after several attempts,I was not able to be put together as it was. (rebaund is too fast, and compresion i.... say strange
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?

  2. #327
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    I have a problem
    After oil change and disassembly fork,I mixed shims stuck of rebaund and compression and after several attempts,I was not able to be put together as it was. (rebaund is too fast, and compresion i.... say strange
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?
    No, not without looking at the diagram... which I'm sure you've done already, RIGHT?

    That said, are you sure you got the damper cartridge oil bled properly? If there is any air in there at all, it won't lock out and will feel funny.

    BTW, I just emailed an industrial supply company about the Parker seals. See how they break down for a bunch. If they're cheap enough, maybe I'll buy 100, keep a few for myself and sell the rest for cheap.

  3. #328
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    Unfortunately I do not have a diagram for XLR/PBR. I have diagram in pdf and manual for DLR, with thicknes of shim stuck,...
    is it the same ?
    Bleeding is ok, I'm sure, but feeling is not
    Only if you turn rebaund through the slowest position, then felt like it was a little slow, but litl, if back only a half-circle, then as fast as the fastest position
    What oil recommended for this damper?

  4. #329
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    Does anyone knows the correct(standard) position of shims stuck on XLR speed damping shaft ?
    may it´s the same like the 130mm PBR

    http://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf

  5. #330
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    Cannondale Service Centre - RLC Sport
    Take a look at this Australian site, it states tuning 2013 lefty's for more compliance, any ideas on how??

  6. #331
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    Quote Originally Posted by designalized View Post
    may it´s the same like the 130mm PBR

    http://media.cannondale.com/media/Ma...plement_en.pdf
    Maybe this is good, but I can not enlarge a quality that I saw the details. Do you have the original pdf of this document?

  7. #332
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    see the chart on page 16 "sHim stacKs From Piston oUt". the order is descriped from top to bottom.

  8. #333
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    Quote Originally Posted by designalized View Post
    see the chart on page 16 "sHim stacKs From Piston oUt". the order is descriped from top to bottom.


    Thanks man

  9. #334
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    Gotta' love the shop technique in the pics half-way down this page:

    Precio del mantenimiento de horquillas headshok. Destripando fatty.Manual incluido | Página 2 | ForoMTB.com

    ... or, perhaps not...

  10. #335
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot View Post
    Hey all,

    I'm wondering how hard it is to change out the seal o-rings in a red PBR damper. It it just taking off the nylon end caps from the damper taking off whatever is at the ends that keep the parts on there, pulling the caps out and sticking new o-rings in there?

    I'm finding oil in the bottom of my boot (on more than one of my Leftys) and it seems that damper oil is just leaking out the bottom of the damper. Plus, my PBR lockout isn't nearly as firm as it should be. I'm assuming it's because when the damper oil leaks out, it's sucking in air, which compresses... taking away the firmness of the lockout. Also, seems that the damper rebound knob doesn't do anything anymore.

    The LBS Cannondale Dealer doesn't really want to work on them. They just swap out the dampers and charge $150 or so to do it. I know Mendon will service it for $100 or so, and he does a good job. Seems to me that if it's just replacing the o-rings, I should be able to do that. Heck, I've rebuilt Audi engines, lapped valves, replaced seals on my Reba, etc. None of this looks like it would be very hard to do if I just had the right info.

    I'm also wondering what the exact sizes of the o-rings might be. I could buy the o-ring kit if I could find the right one, but they are probably just off the shelf o-rings, if I could just find the right specs. I'll bet the local Ace Hardware or auto parts store carries the right sizes for a buck each.

    Yeah, I could always send it back to Mendon Cyclesmith (and the guy runs a great shop, BTW) but I really wanna be more self sufficient with this stuff. I do everything else myself. Why not this?

    *edit*

    Upon further research, it turns out that the damper seals are Parker U-seals 1/2” U-cup #n4180-a80-8404-00500 ... as far as I can tell (but don't quote me on that). I don't know all the dimensions, but it jives that they are designed around a 1/2" shaft (frickin' Cannondale, using SAE sizes). Sounds like something I can get from an industrial supplier if I can find some more specifics. Problem is, I'll bet nobody will sell them to me unless I buy a hundred of them, or something.

    Looks kinda like this:

    Hi,
    The closest thing I found was this:
    K95 012 7 U Ring 12 5 x 20 x 3 5 HO 4 NBR90 Rod Piston Seal uring Upto 150BAR | eBay
    maybe it work.

  11. #336
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    Quote Originally Posted by betopro View Post
    Huh... interesting. 12.5mm comes in at 0.492~ inches... a hair under 0.5 inches. Probably close enough to work. For $16 for six seals landed ($10 for two, $16 for six... may as well stock up for all of my Leftys), I might give it a try. I hope they combine shipping. If so, I'll order a bunch for all of my forks.

    BTW, I changed my fork oil. It seems to be leaking less with new oil. I probably flushed a lot of wear particles out of there. The oil coming out looked awfully grey.

    That said, my Lefty Max on my SS could probably use a trip to Mendon. I wonder if he can get it back to me by Sea Otter?

  12. #337
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Thomas View Post
    Gotta' love the shop technique in the pics half-way down this page:

    Precio del mantenimiento de horquillas headshok. Destripando fatty.Manual incluido | Página 2 | ForoMTB.com

    ... or, perhaps not...
    Yikes!

    I just clicked the link and saw the horror pics. My Spanish is pretty weaksauce, but.... did he use f'ing vice grips to remove the damper cartridge? ... and use a scratch awl to unscrew the damper cartridge end caps?

    Okay, there is a time and a place to do hack work.... like when you're stranded 20 miles from the trailhead, or on some beater cheapo piece of gear you plan to replace anyway... but on a sweet carbon Lefty fork? Uh, no!

    Granted, one of my Lefty forks has a the castle on the top kinda chewed up from removing it so many times and letting the tool slip a few too many times, but I would never resort to vice grips unless it was going directly into the trash can.

    BTW, the Super Castle Tool.... who's brilliant idea was it to paint it or powder coat it? I have paint flakes inside all of my forks from that stupid thing. They should have just plated it, or use a black oxide coating.

  13. #338
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    I think this would be the correct place for this lefty question if anyone can help.

    I have a 2008 F3 Caffeine hardtail and i want to swap out the headshok for a lefty. Would any lefty year fit this steertube? Meaning if i got a new or newer 2014 or 2013 lefty is it plug and play for my frame? I know that the f2 came with the lefty so i figured it was the same frame just with that fork. Any help is greatly appreciated!

  14. #339
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    Quote Originally Posted by csm929 View Post
    I think this would be the correct place for this lefty question if anyone can help.

    I have a 2008 F3 Caffeine hardtail and i want to swap out the headshok for a lefty. Would any lefty year fit this steertube? Meaning if i got a new or newer 2014 or 2013 lefty is it plug and play for my frame? I know that the f2 came with the lefty so i figured it was the same frame just with that fork. Any help is greatly appreciated!
    Yeah, I don't see why not. The Caffeine came with a Lefty in some versions. As long as you don't have an XL size frame, it should be fine. If you have an XL frame, you'll need the XL version of the Lefty to fit the taller head tube.

  15. #340
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    New question here. Lefty 29 pbr 90 - Can i use with a 26" wheel

    The title says it all is there anything stopping me from using my 26" wheels with this fork.

  16. #341
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    Quote Originally Posted by langtounboy View Post
    The title says it all is there anything stopping me from using my 26" wheels with this fork.
    maybe the crownheight - lefty 29" 90mm is the same fork as a lefty 26" ultra 120mm (29er Conversion with travelreducers and air volume reducer)

    the question is how much travel you would like to have and what frame you would use

  17. #342
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    Hi, what oil recommended( thickness and manufacturer) for lefty speed ?

  18. #343
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    Quote Originally Posted by dudukovic View Post
    Hi, what oil recommended( thickness and manufacturer) for lefty speed ?

    One of the manuals I saw online recommended Golden Spectro 85/150 (2.5 WT) Fork Fluid.

  19. #344
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    I wanted to give a big thumbs up to MendonCycleSmith. I sent my fork in for work and it arrived to his shop yesterday and it's already back on it's way to me. Now thats service

  20. #345
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    I have an issue with the rebound adjustment on my 2013 Lefty XLR hybrid. After disassembling the fork and putting it back together, now the top part is compressing the rebound knob as I screw it on. Even by tightening it just by hand, the rebound knob won't move at all. Any idea where I could have it wrong?

  21. #346
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    Just wanted to give a shout out to MendonCycleSmith and the help he gave me getting my new 2014 lefty pbr. I have an 08 caffeine hardtail in matte black that i love but the headshok was blown again and i wanted to move up in the fork world. Craig took the time to answer my 100 questions regarding the benefits of the fork, what i needed, and how to get it. He supplied me with a beautiful fork and also built me a front wheel for the fork that came out absolutely perfect. He really is the true guru of these forks. Thanks again Craig!!

  22. #347
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    Does anyone have a DLR cartridge for a 2004 lefty ?

  23. #348
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    Can anyone help or give some ideas? I recently did a bearing reset (done this several times before with good results) and now the fork won't lock out. Fork is 2012 xlr with 100mm travel. I had the LBS bleed the remote, but no change. the botton does extend and compress as before, but there is 100% no LO. Will this require a new damper?

  24. #349
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    I just changed the oil in my damper for the first time. (90mm 2012 29er PBR) The fork felt fantastic for the first few hours then after about 7 hours the lockout stopped working and the fork started to feel more and more clunky. Then I find oil in the boot...

    I opened it up and I'm pretty sure oil was leaking through the bottom inner seal around the damper shaft. When I changed the oil I had fitted a new seal and there are no scratches on the damper shaft. If that's the case, how / why does the oil leak out from there? I think maybe I had some air in there, would that cause it? It's also possible I had fitted that seal the wrong way up, could that make a difference?

    Also, I think I dislodged the internal top octagonal washer that holds the 4 shim plates whilst refitting the damper. I gave it a nudge and it dropped right back into place but should that part be secured somehow?

    thanks for any info!

  25. #350
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    Brown PBR damper?

    So, I have a 2008-ish Lefty Max PBR I got off craigslist for way too cheap. I was noticing that it rides kinda low, A to C. I should probably actually measure it. I suspect it might be a 120mm fork. I put spacers in there to limit the travel for 29er use, but that doesn't change the A to C. The bearings have been recently reset as well, as best as I can do.

    So the odd thing is, this fork has a brown damper inside. Brown? I thought they had green ones for the Speed series Leftys, and Red for the Max series. I tried trimming 10mm off of the tube at the bottom of the damper, trying to get a bit more travel out of it, but that only resulted in the fork clunking at top out... even with the bearings reset as much as I can stand. I ended up putting the piece I cut off back in there. The tube in there was long... like 60mm, so I just figured it was a 120mm fork.

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