Page 13 of 13 FirstFirst ... 3910111213
Results 601 to 619 of 619
  1. #601
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    16

    Replacing rusty Poptop screw?

    Somehow, the screw at the center of the blue Poptop button on my 2012 Lefty alloy PBR managed to rust over completely—likely due to my salty sweat, but who knows.

    The fork otherwise performs perfectly, but the rusted screw bugs me.

    Can this screw be removed & replaced without having to disassemble the fork? I would guess that it merely holds the blue Poptop cap in place, and hence isn't what I'd refer to as a "load bearing screw."

    Also, can someone suggest a replacement that doesn't involve buying a whole parts kit for the rebound knob? Perhaps I can dig up a stainless part that'd work & avoid catching a case of the rusties…

    Thanks!

  2. #602
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,243
    Quote Originally Posted by liscio View Post
    Somehow, the screw at the center of the blue Poptop button on my 2012 Lefty alloy PBR managed to rust over completely—likely due to my salty sweat, but who knows.

    The fork otherwise performs perfectly, but the rusted screw bugs me.

    Can this screw be removed & replaced without having to disassemble the fork? I would guess that it merely holds the blue Poptop cap in place, and hence isn't what I'd refer to as a "load bearing screw."

    Also, can someone suggest a replacement that doesn't involve buying a whole parts kit for the rebound knob? Perhaps I can dig up a stainless part that'd work & avoid catching a case of the rusties…

    Thanks!
    Yes - that screw can be removed without any further disassembly. It simply holds the cap on as you suspect. I can't tell you the thread size/pitch/length off hand but sourcing a replacement from a local hardware store or somewhere like Fastenal should be easily done.

    You can see the whole assembly disassembled here:
    Cannondale Lefty PBR 2.0 Knob Assembly - KH065

  3. #603
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Posts
    16
    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Yes - that screw can be removed without any further disassembly.
    Perfect, thanks!

  4. #604
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    90
    Does anyone know the torque spec for the 2.0 air cylinder plug KH114?

    Want to mess around with volume reducers, but unsure of how tight KH114 needs to be on re-installation.

  5. #605
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Does anyone know the torque spec for the 2.0 air cylinder plug KH114?

    Want to mess around with volume reducers, but unsure of how tight KH114 needs to be on re-installation.
    20 N-m, with a little synth lube on the threads.

  6. #606
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    90
    Great, thanks!

    Next question...any reason why, when relieved of air, it won't come lose with a reasonable amount of force? Assume it's not reverse threaded?

  7. #607
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    4

    Bonking ... not feelin' well Lefty SUPERMAX

    So I mounted a SUPERMAX on my Trigger.
    Lefty is 124mm spacing for my 122mm HT.
    Not the first time I have done this.
    Anyway there is some play in the HT?

    Took out the split ring and put in the q-seal
    ontop of the bearings. Pretty straight forward.
    Am I missing something? HT is 1.5, steerer is 1.5.
    Maybe a second seal under the bottom bearings?
    Seems like a tight fit. Everything looks good, but
    When I rock the front back and forth you can see
    and feel the 1~2mm play. Do I need smaller bearings? I am stumped....

  8. #608
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    4

    Lefty SUPERMAX with XLR remote

    On a side note. I was thinking of putting a remote on my SUPERMAX. I have seen it so I know it is possible. Anyone know what this entails (parts, tools, etc). I have the remote, I believe the top cap would be different. Would the damper need modification? Any input is appreciated.

  9. #609
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    90
    If your steerer really is 1.5" and your bearings are Cannondale Headshok (1.56") then you can see where the slop might come from...

    Not quite sure why you'd have a 1.5" steerer though : /

  10. #610
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    3
    Hi guys

    I just bought a rush 2000 '06 with lefty carbon dlr2. I guess it has never been serviced. When i inflate the lefty, the pressure increases really fast (one pump 8bar) and when i unscrew it drops to zero. Seems no air goes in. Any help ?

    Thanks

  11. #611
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    90
    Schrader valve is damaged / blocked / stuck. Or doesn't work with your pump.

    If the former, you can replace it with a schrader valve core tool and a new core.

    If the later, try a different pump. I'd try this first.

    Similar problem: Lefty schrader valve?

  12. #612
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    3
    thanks it finally worked with some efforts. a little bit of oil escaped. but for now it works.
    i also checked air filter it's almost dead. do i need to unmount it all to fit a new one or will it be enough stretch to fit in direct replacement from the bottom of the fork ?

  13. #613
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,243
    A little oil escape is ok - there's 20cc in there if it was filled to factory spec, primarily it is to lubricate the air piston, and stick to the walls. The filter can be stretched around the bottom of the fork easier than the boot. Take your time, and wrap tape around the sharp points of the brake caliper mount to avoid cuts.

  14. #614
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    3
    Perfect thanks

  15. #615
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    4

    Cannondale Lefty SUPERMAX

    How about putting a SUPERMAX in a HEADSHOK frame?
    Headshok uses 1.56 bearings.
    Supermax uses 1.5 steerer.
    Are all lefty clamps the same diameter?
    Would I use an older lefty steerer with the SUPERMAX?
    OR would I need to swap out the headset bearings to use the newer 1.5 steerer? What about some kind of shim? Like an old Campy headset seal?

  16. #616
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
    Posts
    4
    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    If your steerer really is 1.5" and your bearings are Cannondale Headshok (1.56") then you can see where the slop might come from...

    Not quite sure why you'd have a 1.5" steerer though : /
    Can anyone verify if that is the case? Frame says 1.5. Manual lists two seperate headsets ( one for lefty, one for 1.5 ). BUT the split ring seems to be a possible shim? AND it is only in the top bearing. PLEASE HELP

  17. #617
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,243
    Quote Originally Posted by Gspot2000 View Post
    How about putting a SUPERMAX in a HEADSHOK frame?
    Headshok uses 1.56 bearings.
    Supermax uses 1.5 steerer.
    Are all lefty clamps the same diameter?
    Would I use an older lefty steerer with the SUPERMAX?
    OR would I need to swap out the headset bearings to use the newer 1.5 steerer? What about some kind of shim? Like an old Campy headset seal?
    Current supermax steerer (KP118/?) is stepped down slightly to accept a 1.5" stem. But it is still designed to be inserted into a standard headshok/lefty bearing (HD169).

    Your bigger issue might be getting the right length steer tube - as they are frame size specific.

  18. #618
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    575
    I have a 2015 hybrid XLR fork I want to lube. Daft question perhaps but I can't see any instruction for removing the red XLR top (rebound adjuster) on that fork. On the later lefty's there are two screws that retain this piece but nothing visible on the hybrid...do I just undo the large HT2 BB fitting nut on the top for this? or is there some other way of removing the XLR cap first? Thanks.

    Mine looks like this one:


  19. #619
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    14,862
    Easy. Unscrew the collar, and lift it all off. No screws on that version.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  20. #620
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Posts
    1,243
    The current run of Habits that come with a 120mm Lefty 2.0. Internally what's different from the 130mm 2.0 that is on the Habit SE?

    Initially i was just assuming it was a travel limiter above the air spring, but then I noticed that the Headangle spec on the SE is .5 degree slacker, "due to the taller front end".

    So is there a separate part number for a 120mm Lefty with different internals that affect the static length of the fork? I can't find any tech documents that outline what's in a 120mm.

  21. #621
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    575
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Easy. Unscrew the collar, and lift it all off. No screws on that version.
    Thanks Craig!

Page 13 of 13 FirstFirst ... 3910111213

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •