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  1. #601
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    Replacing rusty Poptop screw?

    Somehow, the screw at the center of the blue Poptop button on my 2012 Lefty alloy PBR managed to rust over completely—likely due to my salty sweat, but who knows.

    The fork otherwise performs perfectly, but the rusted screw bugs me.

    Can this screw be removed & replaced without having to disassemble the fork? I would guess that it merely holds the blue Poptop cap in place, and hence isn't what I'd refer to as a "load bearing screw."

    Also, can someone suggest a replacement that doesn't involve buying a whole parts kit for the rebound knob? Perhaps I can dig up a stainless part that'd work & avoid catching a case of the rusties…

    Thanks!

  2. #602
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    Quote Originally Posted by liscio View Post
    Somehow, the screw at the center of the blue Poptop button on my 2012 Lefty alloy PBR managed to rust over completely—likely due to my salty sweat, but who knows.

    The fork otherwise performs perfectly, but the rusted screw bugs me.

    Can this screw be removed & replaced without having to disassemble the fork? I would guess that it merely holds the blue Poptop cap in place, and hence isn't what I'd refer to as a "load bearing screw."

    Also, can someone suggest a replacement that doesn't involve buying a whole parts kit for the rebound knob? Perhaps I can dig up a stainless part that'd work & avoid catching a case of the rusties…

    Thanks!
    Yes - that screw can be removed without any further disassembly. It simply holds the cap on as you suspect. I can't tell you the thread size/pitch/length off hand but sourcing a replacement from a local hardware store or somewhere like Fastenal should be easily done.

    You can see the whole assembly disassembled here:
    Cannondale Lefty PBR 2.0 Knob Assembly - KH065

  3. #603
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Yes - that screw can be removed without any further disassembly.
    Perfect, thanks!

  4. #604
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    Does anyone know the torque spec for the 2.0 air cylinder plug KH114?

    Want to mess around with volume reducers, but unsure of how tight KH114 needs to be on re-installation.

  5. #605
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Does anyone know the torque spec for the 2.0 air cylinder plug KH114?

    Want to mess around with volume reducers, but unsure of how tight KH114 needs to be on re-installation.
    20 N-m, with a little synth lube on the threads.

  6. #606
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    Great, thanks!

    Next question...any reason why, when relieved of air, it won't come lose with a reasonable amount of force? Assume it's not reverse threaded?

  7. #607
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Lefty SUPERMAX

    So I mounted a SUPERMAX on my Trigger.
    Lefty is 124mm spacing for my 122mm HT.
    Not the first time I have done this.
    Anyway there is some play in the HT?

    Took out the split ring and put in the q-seal
    ontop of the bearings. Pretty straight forward.
    Am I missing something? HT is 1.5, steerer is 1.5.
    Maybe a second seal under the bottom bearings?
    Seems like a tight fit. Everything looks good, but
    When I rock the front back and forth you can see
    and feel the 1~2mm play. Do I need smaller bearings? I am stumped....

  8. #608
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    Lefty SUPERMAX with XLR remote

    On a side note. I was thinking of putting a remote on my SUPERMAX. I have seen it so I know it is possible. Anyone know what this entails (parts, tools, etc). I have the remote, I believe the top cap would be different. Would the damper need modification? Any input is appreciated.

  9. #609
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    If your steerer really is 1.5" and your bearings are Cannondale Headshok (1.56") then you can see where the slop might come from...

    Not quite sure why you'd have a 1.5" steerer though : /

  10. #610
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    Hi guys

    I just bought a rush 2000 '06 with lefty carbon dlr2. I guess it has never been serviced. When i inflate the lefty, the pressure increases really fast (one pump 8bar) and when i unscrew it drops to zero. Seems no air goes in. Any help ?

    Thanks

  11. #611
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    Schrader valve is damaged / blocked / stuck. Or doesn't work with your pump.

    If the former, you can replace it with a schrader valve core tool and a new core.

    If the later, try a different pump. I'd try this first.

    Similar problem: Lefty schrader valve?

  12. #612
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    thanks it finally worked with some efforts. a little bit of oil escaped. but for now it works.
    i also checked air filter it's almost dead. do i need to unmount it all to fit a new one or will it be enough stretch to fit in direct replacement from the bottom of the fork ?

  13. #613
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    A little oil escape is ok - there's 20cc in there if it was filled to factory spec, primarily it is to lubricate the air piston, and stick to the walls. The filter can be stretched around the bottom of the fork easier than the boot. Take your time, and wrap tape around the sharp points of the brake caliper mount to avoid cuts.

  14. #614
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    Perfect thanks

  15. #615
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    Cannondale Lefty SUPERMAX

    How about putting a SUPERMAX in a HEADSHOK frame?
    Headshok uses 1.56 bearings.
    Supermax uses 1.5 steerer.
    Are all lefty clamps the same diameter?
    Would I use an older lefty steerer with the SUPERMAX?
    OR would I need to swap out the headset bearings to use the newer 1.5 steerer? What about some kind of shim? Like an old Campy headset seal?

  16. #616
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    If your steerer really is 1.5" and your bearings are Cannondale Headshok (1.56") then you can see where the slop might come from...

    Not quite sure why you'd have a 1.5" steerer though : /
    Can anyone verify if that is the case? Frame says 1.5. Manual lists two seperate headsets ( one for lefty, one for 1.5 ). BUT the split ring seems to be a possible shim? AND it is only in the top bearing. PLEASE HELP

  17. #617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gspot2000 View Post
    How about putting a SUPERMAX in a HEADSHOK frame?
    Headshok uses 1.56 bearings.
    Supermax uses 1.5 steerer.
    Are all lefty clamps the same diameter?
    Would I use an older lefty steerer with the SUPERMAX?
    OR would I need to swap out the headset bearings to use the newer 1.5 steerer? What about some kind of shim? Like an old Campy headset seal?
    Current supermax steerer (KP118/?) is stepped down slightly to accept a 1.5" stem. But it is still designed to be inserted into a standard headshok/lefty bearing (HD169).

    Your bigger issue might be getting the right length steer tube - as they are frame size specific.

  18. #618
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    I have a 2015 hybrid XLR fork I want to lube. Daft question perhaps but I can't see any instruction for removing the red XLR top (rebound adjuster) on that fork. On the later lefty's there are two screws that retain this piece but nothing visible on the hybrid...do I just undo the large HT2 BB fitting nut on the top for this? or is there some other way of removing the XLR cap first? Thanks.

    Mine looks like this one:


  19. #619
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    Easy. Unscrew the collar, and lift it all off. No screws on that version.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  20. #620
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    The current run of Habits that come with a 120mm Lefty 2.0. Internally what's different from the 130mm 2.0 that is on the Habit SE?

    Initially i was just assuming it was a travel limiter above the air spring, but then I noticed that the Headangle spec on the SE is .5 degree slacker, "due to the taller front end".

    So is there a separate part number for a 120mm Lefty with different internals that affect the static length of the fork? I can't find any tech documents that outline what's in a 120mm.

  21. #621
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Easy. Unscrew the collar, and lift it all off. No screws on that version.
    Thanks Craig!

  22. #622
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    I have a little play in my lefty fork of a few mm it seems righ before the bearing engage. I want to try to do a bearing reset but I'm not sure how it should be ? Once I unscrew the top cap the telescop comes way out. After alot of wacks I can get the telescop in at the level of the 1st spacer (form those 3 white spacers). After that I continue to wack but it doesn't move. Should I continue harder ? Also after screwing back the top at that point it just seems to go back to the same point.

    For example, mine is sticking more then here http://www.infinitecycles.com/wp/upl...dcartridge.jpg

    If I understand, should it be much lower ?

  23. #623
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  24. #624
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelzqc View Post
    I have a little play in my lefty fork of a few mm it seems righ before the bearing engage. I want to try to do a bearing reset but I'm not sure how it should be ? Once I unscrew the top cap the telescop comes way out. After alot of wacks I can get the telescop in at the level of the 1st spacer (form those 3 white spacers). After that I continue to wack but it doesn't move. Should I continue harder ? Also after screwing back the top at that point it just seems to go back to the same point.

    For example, mine is sticking more then here http://www.infinitecycles.com/wp/upl...dcartridge.jpg

    If I understand, should it be much lower ?
    I'm assuming you have a Speed DLR model, travel limited for 29'er use since you mention having 30mm of travel spacers.

    When you fully extend the fork with the damper disengaged like in your pic - you should measure ~695mm total length from bottom edge to the top of the threads of the telescope.

    If it measures short, you need to do the reset some more. If it measure correctly, then it sounds like there might be issues elsewhere and I'd recommend taking it to your dealer, or sending it to Craig @ Mendon for service.

  25. #625
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    It's a Cannondale Flash 2011 29er. PBR

    If I measure from bottom to c-clip it's 685mm.

  26. #626
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    I'm assuming the second pic is of your fork?

    And, that, as it was for the pic, it was compressed?

    By that, I mean you could extend the fork, and that damper would drop farther down in?

    Don't go crazy and try to get every last mm of the 695 mentioned. Get it close, and call it good.

    I've had people pull their whole fork in half, trying to get from 694, to 695, turns out they weren't measuring from the right spot, and yeah, about that.....

    This doesn't make much sense, can you clarify please, particularly the "before the bearing engage" bit? "I have a little play in my lefty fork of a few mm it seems righ before the bearing engage."
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  27. #627
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    Thanks for the replies. That is my fork with the head tube is sitting on the tire. If I go the other way, fully extended, it goes about 5cm into the tube, maybe more. I can take more pictures or measure more stuff.

    What I meant is there seems to be a little vertical play before it gets smooth. Same when it's locked, just a bit of play the first few mm(that comes with a sound different then the swoosh from the suspension), a few mm, again vertical.

  28. #628
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    P.s. I wasn't sure if it was 725mm the extension?

  29. #629
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    So, if the top of the red rebound knob is only ~5mm down in, at full extension yes, you need a bit more reset.

    Pay attention to the feel as you hit bottom.

    It's felt sort of "soft" up till now. It will feel more firm, like you've hit the end, once fully reset.

    I suggest going at it rather aggressively, you won't hurt it. You'll also reset more quickly, and thus, be able to feel the difference. If you do it gently, and a million whacks, you'll miss the change in feel, if that makes any sense?

    If you have free play at the top of the travel when locked, it means your damper is a little low on oil. Not a horrible thing, but it does indicate it's time to get the fork serviced.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  30. #630
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    Ok I'll give it another go tonight at pulling hard on the wheel. I did for like 50times. It felt pretty consistent the feel so its hard for me to know when it'll feel harder.

    It's at 30mm inside. Edit: I gave a few hard goes again. It does feel solid, but I could be wrong. I have yet to see a video of a guy wacking harder on it hehe.

    Thanks for your help !
    Last edited by wheelzqc; 08-31-2016 at 07:45 PM.

  31. #631
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    Lefty 2.0 hundred hour service at TF tuned.

    'scope was in perfect condition apparently, oil still clean.

    Had the wave spring replaced with...another wave spring because CSG UK can't get the coils in from the mothership at the mo.

    Cartridge re-built and bled.

    Turn around: one day.

    Not bad.

  32. #632
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    The current run of Habits that come with a 120mm Lefty 2.0. Internally what's different from the 130mm 2.0 that is on the Habit SE?

    Initially i was just assuming it was a travel limiter above the air spring, but then I noticed that the Headangle spec on the SE is .5 degree slacker, "due to the taller front end".

    So is there a separate part number for a 120mm Lefty with different internals that affect the static length of the fork? I can't find any tech documents that outline what's in a 120mm.
    This was answered - kinda - in the habit thread. The upper air seal in the 130 is 10mm shorter, as is the volume reducer.

    What's unclear is whether the 130 has a different lower leg to accommodate the 10mm of extra travel.

  33. #633
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    What is the correct size for the recoil insert in the lefty axial?

    Is this M10x1 1D. I have read that the coil is a special size the you can only get from Cannodale.

  34. #634
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    10x1, same as a rear derailleur hanger...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  35. #635
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    Cannondale Lefty Updates from Eurobike on Pinkbike

    "The Lefty's chassis is impressively stiff, reliable, and lightweight, plus it gets bonus points for making people look twice, but I've said before that its internals don't quite match the best from other suspension brands. That's likely going to change in the future - Cannondale hired one of the main minds behind the Pike awhile back - and I got a peek at one of the first small, albeit important updates to the Lefty's insides. Nerd alert warning.

    http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb13895330/p5pb13895330.jpg

    Future Lefty struts will get a brand new air spring assembly, dubbed 2Spring, that replaces the older Solo Air unit. While the Solo Air spring employs a rubber-like MCU piece that's shaped to allow air pressure between the positive and negative chambers to self-regulate, the 2Spring version uses, you guessed it, a spring. The issue with the MCU is that the inner surface causes friction as it is squeezed down over the large diameter shaft that runs through the center of it, whereas there is obviously no friction between the spring and shaft. A wave washer was hidden just above the old Solo Air unit's plastic piston that controlled the open/close bypass valve, but there's a second coil spring doing the job on the 2Spring unit, which is where it takes its name from. Also, the piston now has a conical shape has been used because it encourages a small amount of oil to pool just above the piston seal.

    This internal update is claimed to lower the strut's activation force by 7lbs but, more importantly, also makes for longer service intervals and less trouble. Leftys will come stock with the 2Spring unit moving forward, and it's also retrofittable onto older struts."

  36. #636
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    Japp, back2basics
    For sale:
    - CHRIS KING hub iso Lefty LD disc (Cannondale)


  37. #637
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    Quote Originally Posted by Searamp View Post
    Cannondale Lefty Updates from Eurobike on Pinkbike

    "http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p5pb13895330/p5pb13895330.jpg

    Future Lefty struts will get a brand new air spring assembly, dubbed 2Spring..."


    Wait. Isn't this 'just' the 'new' solo air assembly that supposed to solve wave washer woe that's been around for six months or so?

    If so, great PR spin there.

  38. #638
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Wait. Isn't this 'just' the 'new' solo air assembly that supposed to solve wave washer woe that's been around for six months or so?

    If so, great PR spin there.
    no, that looks different, but I can only see one coil spring in that picture, where is the second one placed? 7 lb diffence in force sounds like a lot, should be noticable. Hopefully it will be available as an aftermarket kit sometime soon.

    EDIT: added a picture, the bottom part of the pictures above was changed with the upgraded solo air assembly.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-soloair.jpg  


  39. #639
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skier78 View Post
    no, that looks different, but I can only see one coil spring in that picture, where is the second one placed? 7 lb diffence in force sounds like a lot, should be noticable. Hopefully it will be available as an aftermarket kit sometime soon.
    Assume the other spring is where the wave washer would be, compressed and hidden.

    I don't understand how it would make a difference to the force required to break the 'stiction'. There's two seals there that contract in the inner leg; lower air piston and the top seal. Same as with the existing piston.

    Voodoo, obvs

  40. #640
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Assume the other spring is where the wave washer would be, compressed and hidden.

    I don't understand how it would make a difference to the force required to break the 'stiction'. There's two seals there that contract in the inner leg; lower air piston and the top seal. Same as with the existing piston.

    Voodoo, obvs
    yes, you are probably right, did not see that.
    I think they mean that there is stiction between the center rod and the mcu, not between the o-ring and the inner leg.

  41. #641
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skier78 View Post
    I think they mean that there is stiction between the center rod and the mcu, not between the o-ring and the inner leg.
    I'm no solo air expert, but I believe the MCU is static - unless you a pumping more air into the shock, or taking air out. The friction against the inner shaft is not an issue when the shock is being used, as in this mode, it doesn't move.

    Unless the solo air spring dynamically regulates the pressure in the two chambers as the leg moves through its travel. Maybe that's it.

    Craig probably knows the skinny on that.

  42. #642
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    Well, logging into the Dealer B2B site today there's a notice that the 2Spring upgrade is mandatory for the 14-current non-booted forks. the upgrade kit will be no-charge for 6 months. (Doesn't mean the labor is free - not sure how that's being addressed right now.)

    Last Friday, all lefty-equipped bikes that had current availability on Thursday - all went to out of stock status. I've been eyeing a closeout Habit. Sounds like they may be retrofitting all of the in-stock bikes before they ship them. Called my rep and he thinks that is what's happening and they'll be back available in the next day or 2.

    Sounds like a huge PITA to me.

  43. #643
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Sounds like a huge PITA to me.
    True, but I'd take that PITA to get my wave spring replaced before it breaks, a longer service interval and 7lbs less activation force, all for the cost of the labor alone. Just add it to a service and I'll barely notice

  44. #644
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    Quote Originally Posted by Searamp View Post
    True, but I'd take that PITA to get my wave spring replaced before it breaks, a longer service interval and 7lbs less activation force, all for the cost of the labor alone. Just add it to a service and I'll barely notice
    Agreed - and I just verified that they are pulling all the bikes in the warehouses to install the new spring before they go out the doors. Here's the new logo on the fork that will indicate a fork has the new assembly in it.

    Name:  2spring.jpg
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  45. #645
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    Ok I need some help, I purchased what I thought was a solid bike off eBay 2012 RZ 120 frame that was a warranty frame replacement and it has a 2000 Headshok Lefty DLR and when I went to get on the bike the shock bottomed out with no resistance and very slow recoil any thoughts before I have a Cannondale dealer look at it and I have to file a paypal claim ugh....

  46. #646
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    Not to be wiseass, but have you checked the air pressure? A lot of times sellers will ship forks and shocks with no air.

  47. #647
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    I don't know what the pressure is supposed to be and the valve sits pretty far in so I don't think my bike pump will work, I'm completely new to lefty's

  48. #648
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    Going to need a shock pump. I have a fox that worked on a lefty, but it wasn't my bike. Might be a good idea to take it to your LBS for a quick once over anyway. They should have pumps, or at least one they can use to check your fork.

  49. #649
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mdp3612 View Post
    I don't know what the pressure is supposed to be and the valve sits pretty far in so I don't think my bike pump will work, I'm completely new to lefty's
    ^^^ yep - air forks/shocks will need a shock pump - that's not a lefty thing , it's for all brands. All normal suspension pumps will work. Depending on your rider weight, the pressure changes. You can find a 2010 DLR owner's manual here: http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...150820T122551Z

  50. #650
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    Thanks, I'm gonna get my dealer to adjust the air pressure tomorrow

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