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  1. #551
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    Hey guys I was recently offered a good deal on a 10 year old cannondale rush 600 (2006) all original parts. I'm a bit lost on the Lefty fork though. Is there an offset headset I could use with it?

  2. #552
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    Quote Originally Posted by TNT998 View Post
    Hey guys I was recently offered a good deal on a 10 year old cannondale rush 600 (2006) all original parts. I'm a bit lost on the Lefty fork though. Is there an offset headset I could use with it?
    No offset headset that I'm aware of - not a lot of space in that headtube for wiggling around. What are you wanting to accomplish?

    I saw the same model posted for sale in Alabama recently - if this is the same bike, it is an insanely good deal.

  3. #553
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    321 Lefty adapter? Not sure what the rush head tube looks like

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

  4. #554
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    No offset headset that I'm aware of - not a lot of space in that headtube for wiggling around. What are you wanting to accomplish?

    I saw the same model posted for sale in Alabama recently - if this is the same bike, it is an insanely good deal.
    Sorry for the wait. I wanted to know if I could get it a degree slacker on the HA. I really love the way it rides but riding a degree slacker would help in my opinion.

  5. #555
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    By the way, I'm buying it from a close friend who needs the money so I'll just stick with what I can get him down to. But thanks a lot.

  6. #556
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    Post a pic of the fork?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  7. #557
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    Hi Guys, I have just purchased a cannondale jekyll carbon 2 with 160 lefty. Does any one here know of or can point me in the direction of full service instructions for this fork. Any help would be appreciated I am not about to pay the ridiculous price for a service in the UK. Thanks in advance

  8. #558
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    Quote Originally Posted by zer0c00l44 View Post
    Hi Guys, I have just purchased a cannondale jekyll carbon 2 with 160 lefty. Does any one here know of or can point me in the direction of full service instructions for this fork. Any help would be appreciated I am not about to pay the ridiculous price for a service in the UK. Thanks in advance

    You must be new around here :0)

    If you want to DIY it, you'll need specific tools and knowhow. Without both it's possible to make an expensive mess that will make the service change you are trying to avoid look cheap. The tools are fairly easy to acquire, the know-how not so easy. As far as I know full service instructions are not published or at least in a format customers can get hold of, although there a few videos online that cover bits of the process if you poke about.

  9. #559
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    You must be new around here :0)

    If you want to DIY it, you'll need specific tools and knowhow. Without both it's possible to make an expensive mess that will make the service change you are trying to avoid look cheap. The tools are fairly easy to acquire, the know-how not so easy. As far as I know full service instructions are not published or at least in a format customers can get hold of, although there a few videos online that cover bits of the process if you poke about.
    Hi I have been a member for a few years just dont come on here much. I did an internet search and the MTBR web site popped up.

    I hope its ok just coming on here for info as I dont hardly ever log in.

    I have my own suspension servicing business in the UK so Ill be fine servicing the fork. Would just prefer to follow some sort of instructions for the first couple of times. I could just wing it but would prefer to follow some thing to be totally honest.

  10. #560
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    Just found a really good 100 hour service on Vimeo. What a faff to get the fork off the frame though. Thats the price you pay for running the best fork on the planet I supose

  11. #561
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    Quote Originally Posted by zer0c00l44 View Post
    Hi I have been a member for a few years just dont come on here much. I did an internet search and the MTBR web site popped up.

    I hope its ok just coming on here for info as I dont hardly ever log in.
    I'm just partially pulling your leg Although folks asking for service manuals because a paid for service seems too expensive is a bit of a giggle given i) the investment in tools required and ii) the damage you can do if you make one, small mistake...

    The 100 service video is good, but now slightly out of date because the neg air balancing valve design has changed.

    You'll need the Castle tool and the Shaft Clamps at minimum to do the work.

    I service my own forks but I'm happy to post Lefty to TF because life is too short

  12. #562
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    Can anyone help me with the parts I will need to install a lefty XLR alloy 2014 137mm on to my bike? I have a trail sl3 single speed frame. It currently has the rigid fork.

    Will I need a new headset? I want to use my current stem.

    ThanksThe official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20160225_175350.jpg.

  13. #563
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    Quote Originally Posted by illMATTic View Post
    Can anyone help me with the parts I will need to install a lefty XLR alloy 2014 137mm on to my bike? I have a trail sl3 single speed frame. It currently has the rigid fork.

    Will I need a new headset? I want to use my current stem.

    ThanksClick image for larger version. 

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    Man - I had a big response all typed out, and when I went to post, something borked up and it was lost.

    So - shorter story. I'll call my cannondale tech support guys tomorrow and ask them, because your bike has a few unique things you have to deal with.

    It appears that the factory headset in that bike uses an integrated top bearing and a pressed in bottom cup/bearing assembly that your 1.5" steertube fork runs on. The catalog specifically calls out that your rigid fork is a 1.5" standard steertube fork - which unfortunately is NOT the same size as Headshok/Lefty steertube which is 1.56" (The Si standard).

    Given that - I'd almost put money that your frame will accept the Si upper bearing and a Si lower cup and bearing assembly. (The Si cups always have been able to fit into a 1.5" industry standard headtube). If this is the case - you just have to order the right Si headset cup and bearing set.

    If that is not the case - then you've gotta do a little more digging to find a top bearing or reducer setup that will reduce what you have to 1 1/8", and employ the Project 321 tapered adapter setup for the Lefty. You'll need to keep an eye on your total stack height since it appears you might already have the 137mm version of the lefty.

    Either way - you're not going to be able to keep your current 1.5" stem - there's not an option out there that I am aware of that has a 1.5" steertube adapter for the lefy, because a bike that was built for a 1.5" steertube should have a headtube that the Si cups can already press into, so you would just run the Lefty 1.56" steerer.

    I'll report back tomorrow what Cannondale tells me.

  14. #564
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Man - I had a big response all typed out, and when I went to post, something borked up and it was lost.

    So - shorter story.
    Thank you for the info. The lack of info and measurements on the web is astonishing. Cannondale sure did keep a tight lid on Lefty info. I was hoping to find a steerer like the one pictured. I think my head tube is too short though. At 102mm it is an oddball size for Lefty forks.

    I don't have a fork yet. 137mm seems to be more common for used forks.

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  15. #565
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    Quote Originally Posted by illMATTic View Post
    Thank you for the info. The lack of info and measurements on the web is astonishing. Cannondale sure did keep a tight lid on Lefty info. I was hoping to find a steerer like the one pictured. I think my head tube is too short though. At 102mm it is an oddball size for Lefty forks.

    I don't have a fork yet. 137mm seems to be more common for used forks.

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    That is new one for me, but I haven't had a reason to go looking for one before. Little research pulls up that that 1.5 steerer is unique to the Trigger 29er, and apparently there are different lengths of steer tube for that bike (which is different than other lefty frames).

    You can see in the "1.5 only" section how there is a minute step up in diameter below the stem clamp area. That steerer still only works with the Si bearing standard.

    I just got off the phone with Cannondale Techs, and talked to 2 different guys, both had the same opinion that the safest play is to use a reducer headset down to 1 1/8" and their "lefty for all" adapter - but Project 321 makes a tapered adapter that should fit a 1.5 lower headset bearing like you already have, but you'd still need to go 1 1/8" on the top.

    The rub is that they recommended a Cane Creek ZS49/28.6 top assembly for your frame. Well that takes me back to this frame takes a 49.6mm 1.5" standard press in headset - and the Cannondale Si headset cups match that standard. We can forget the possibility of the Si bearing dropping directly into your frame now that we know this.

    I still feel that you could install the Si cups and bearings for a standard lefty steerer to work - but then you have to start playing with stack height. What size is your frame, the headtube length differs between sizes.

    I wish I had one of these in the shop to pull apart and measure the headset parts just to be 100% certain.

    IF (big IF) the Gods smile upon us, you might have enough stack to properly match up with one of the right Trigger 1.5 steerers and get to save your 1.5" stem.

  16. #566
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    Thank you.

    My frame is a medium. The head tube only measures 102mm tall without cups. SI cups will add close to 20mm I bet.

    I have been trying to find measurements for the steerers. I didn't come up with anything.

    I can always buy another stem for 1 1/8 if needed. This one only has a few miles on it though. ha ha.

  17. #567
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    Quote Originally Posted by illMATTic View Post
    Thank you.

    My frame is a medium. The head tube only measures 102mm tall without cups. SI cups will add close to 20mm I bet.

    I have been trying to find measurements for the steerers. I didn't come up with anything.

    I can always buy another stem for 1 1/8 if needed. This one only has a few miles on it though. ha ha.
    Yeah - Si cups are 10mm each, and there's a top seal that is ~2mm that needs to go in there. So you're at 124-126mm total stack. That's really close to the 122mm stack height that that Supermax 1.5" steerer needs for what "should" have fit a large frame. I don't know if there is a clamp height difference between the supermax forks and the standard XLR/PBR forks. If the XLR/PBR forks are a little shorter, it would make the bearings line up even better, I believe.

    I'm thinking this could be made to work out with a touch of tweaking and the right parts in hand.

  18. #568
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    Nice. I'll have to pull it apart this weekend and measure everything to make sure the SI cups will work. This is the info I was looking for.

    Thank you for spending the time to put it all together.

  19. #569
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    After all of this, its looking like my 65mm stem may be too short for an XLR/PBR lefty. It has 0 deg drop. 2.0 shouldn't be a problem.

  20. #570
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    lefty xlr 29er 2011 damper bleed

    help, it's a long time that I'm looking for a clear tutorial about the bleeding of the damper KH079 but I didn't find info about...
    I found this procedure http://maximatgmh.free.fr/Instructio...fty%20DLR2.pdf
    it helps but it's not the same....when I bleed the damper I can reach quite a good result but after about 20-30hours of use I can feel like an empty in the fork when locked and when hitting little holes on the ground....when the fork is locked out it seems to work properly.
    so I think that my procedure of bleeding is not correct and some little bobbles of air remain trapped in the fork in differnt places and after a while they meet togheter and make the empty knock.

    sorry for my italian-enghlish...
    and thanks for your help.

    pura vida
    iac

  21. #571
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    I Have a 2015 Trigger 3 27.5 alloy... just scored 2015 27.5 Team Carbon frame ONLY... question:

    I just got a great deal on a carbon frame to swap with my alloy frame. Unfortunately the Lefty Supermax is NOT in the budget right now. Here's my question-

    Can I use (until I have the budget) the Fox 32 Evolution Float CTD FIT 27.5, (140mm, 1.5", 51mm Offset) that I currently have? If so, is there any special headset or adapter I would need for the frame.

    Believe me, I lust after the Lefty but it's just not in the budget today and recognize that I'm in a Lefty thread but figure you guys would have the most knowledge...

    Thanks in advance for any help!

  22. #572
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    Quote Originally Posted by christocyclist View Post
    I Have a 2015 Trigger 3 27.5 alloy... just scored 2015 27.5 Team Carbon frame ONLY... question:

    I just got a great deal on a carbon frame to swap with my alloy frame. Unfortunately the Lefty Supermax is NOT in the budget right now. Here's my question-

    Can I use (until I have the budget) the Fox 32 Evolution Float CTD FIT 27.5, (140mm, 1.5", 51mm Offset) that I currently have? If so, is there any special headset or adapter I would need for the frame.

    Believe me, I lust after the Lefty but it's just not in the budget today and recognize that I'm in a Lefty thread but figure you guys would have the most knowledge...

    Thanks in advance for any help!
    Your alloy frame - did it have pressed in headset cups that the bearings rode in, or did the bearings drop into the frame directly? My understanding is there is a special Tange-made headset for the alloy bikes that use 1.5" steerer forks, but I don't know if they were integrated or press fit.

    Cannondale made a headset that was for the carbon bikes like the scalpel/trigger/f29 that take the bearings directly into the frame without cups. It used a special set of bearings that would work with a 1.5" fork like yours - part number was KP119, but cannondale shows out of stock online (doesn't mean they might not have one laying around - the parts catalog isn't always perfectly up to date). Cannondaleexperts.com also sold that headset, but show out of stock. Might call cannondale or cannondaleexperts up and tell them what you're looking for and they can tell you what they have that would work, or if your stock headset from your 3 would do the trick.

  23. #573
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Your alloy frame - did it have pressed in headset cups that the bearings rode in, or did the bearings drop into the frame directly? My understanding is there is a special Tange-made headset for the alloy bikes that use 1.5" steerer forks, but I don't know if they were integrated or press fit.

    Cannondale made a headset that was for the carbon bikes like the scalpel/trigger/f29 that take the bearings directly into the frame without cups. It used a special set of bearings that would work with a 1.5" fork like yours - part number was KP119, but cannondale shows out of stock online (doesn't mean they might not have one laying around - the parts catalog isn't always perfectly up to date). Cannondaleexperts.com also sold that headset, but show out of stock. Might call cannondale or cannondaleexperts up and tell them what you're looking for and they can tell you what they have that would work, or if your stock headset from your 3 would do the trick.
    This PDFs from Cannondales web site may help.
    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...151202T190743Z

    My alloy Trigger has the bearings pressed into the head tube. They sit directly into machined recesses in the head tube and are a press fit. I imagine that the carbon frame will have integrated cups bonded into the head tube which the bearings are then pressed into.
    So long as the steerer tube on your fork fits snugly through the bearings you should be fine to use it. You may just need the relevant head tube seals, tapered wedge and conical cone and spacers to sit under the stem.

  24. #574
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Your alloy frame - did it have pressed in headset cups that the bearings rode in, or did the bearings drop into the frame directly? My understanding is there is a special Tange-made headset for the alloy bikes that use 1.5" steerer forks, but I don't know if they were integrated or press fit.

    Cannondale made a headset that was for the carbon bikes like the scalpel/trigger/f29 that take the bearings directly into the frame without cups. It used a special set of bearings that would work with a 1.5" fork like yours - part number was KP119, but cannondale shows out of stock online (doesn't mean they might not have one laying around - the parts catalog isn't always perfectly up to date). Cannondaleexperts.com also sold that headset, but show out of stock. Might call cannondale or cannondaleexperts up and tell them what you're looking for and they can tell you what they have that would work, or if your stock headset from your 3 would do the trick.
    Thanks... not sure if this helps but here is a picture of the headset/bearings http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vD0AAO...0w/s-l1600.jpg. Seems to be press fit... would I still need the KP119? It mentions the Rize (which my wife rides circa 2009) so I'm wondering if it is for older frames. My new frame is a 2015

  25. #575
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    Quote Originally Posted by christocyclist View Post
    Thanks... not sure if this helps but here is a picture of the headset/bearings http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/vD0AAO...0w/s-l1600.jpg. Seems to be press fit... would I still need the KP119? It mentions the Rize (which my wife rides circa 2009) so I'm wondering if it is for older frames. My new frame is a 2015
    Here's the manual supplement for a '15 Trigger 27.5/29 frame:
    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...151202T191510Z

    On page 5 it indicates the setup for a Lefty, and references optional headsets in the replacement parts section - Page 19, it indicates the KP119 is the proper headshok to 1.5 fork headset for both alloy and carbon frames.

    Given that, and the pic you posted, - I think that the setup you have/had in your alloy 3 frame should swap right over to the carbon frame and get you where you want.

  26. #576
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Here's the manual supplement for a '15 Trigger 27.5/29 frame:
    http://cf-prd.cannondale.com/~/media...151202T191510Z

    On page 5 it indicates the setup for a Lefty, and references optional headsets in the replacement parts section - Page 19, it indicates the KP119 is the proper headshok to 1.5 fork headset for both alloy and carbon frames.

    Given that, and the pic you posted, - I think that the setup you have/had in your alloy 3 frame should swap right over to the carbon frame and get you where you want.
    Fantastic... great info! Thanks so much. I'm getting the frame tomorrow and will be installing some protective film on it before I ride.

  27. #577
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    So, strange thing while trying to swap out the frames.

    When we put the steerer into the new carbon frame, it wouldn't insert all the way up into the frame- it appears that the 1.5" steerer tub tapers out a bit at the bottom. Is this possible? I would have thought it was a straight 1.5" steerer as the only bearing set that appears on C'dale's replace parts literature is the KP119- identical for both the alloy and carbon.

    Thoughts...?

  28. #578
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    So are you reusing the headset bearing parts that were in your Alloy frame and the same Fox fork? It worked in that frame, correct?

    Pictures would probably help at this point.

  29. #579
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    brought it to the good folks at the Cannondale Store in Mass Ave Cambridge MA. simple swap between the alloy and the carbon frame and I was good to go. as I recall, there is a race/bevel on the headset that goes with the non-Lefty fork.... all built and ready to ride!

  30. #580
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    Quote Originally Posted by christocyclist View Post
    brought it to the good folks at the Cannondale Store in Mass Ave Cambridge MA. simple swap between the alloy and the carbon frame and I was good to go. as I recall, there is a race/bevel on the headset that goes with the non-Lefty fork.... all built and ready to ride!
    Awesome - glad to hear it.

  31. #581
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    I have a 100mm travel 29er Alloy Lefty PBR. It has developed some play in the lower. I can slightly wiggle the front wheel. The hub seems to be seated tightly, and if I hold the lower and upper and try to wiggle them, I don't sense any play. Is there something in the spindle and lower leg that could come loose?

    EDIT: I forgot to add, the Lefty is converted to 110mm travel.

    Andy B.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  32. #582
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    I've had to replace hub bearings in a couple of wheels to correct what you describe. Also in one occasion I was informed that there might be a need to shim the hub to take up a little tolerance difference between bearings and the axle.

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    Thanks for the info! I have other Lefty wheels. I think I'll swap one on and see if it changes it. If it's just bearings that would be an easy fix.
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  34. #584
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    How does the lubrication for the needle bearings work on a Lefty 2.0? Is it just the 10 ml of oil that is poured down from the top that finds its way down there or is it a separate oil bath? Can insufficient lubrication cause bearing migration or what causes the bearings to migrate?

    The reason I am asking is that I have some problems with bearing migration on my Lefty 2.0, I get about 5-10 hours of riding on it before I loose 30 mm of travel. When I release the air and reset I get back to 100 mm travel again, but it is too much of a hassle to do every week. There is still guarantee on the fork so I am not going to tear it apart myself, but I want to be a bit better prepared when I talk to the shop.

  35. #585
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    Fair warning. DO NOT OPEN THE FORK YOURSELF!

    It's 20 ml, not 10, just FYI.

    Migration is natural, normal, and nothing you (or a tech) can do will *stop* it. Run less pressure. Bottom the fork out periodically and it will do some reset on it's own. Don't want it so soft? You likely spend more time lubing, checking gears and tire pressure in a given month, than you will doing a manual reset, so choose your poison....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  36. #586
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    Sounds like that could be a slightly borked solo air spring rather than migration, too, non?

  37. #587
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    Are we talking about the same lubrication? The kit from R.S.P that you use for the 100 hour service is one bottle of alcohol for cleaning and then a bag of 10 ml oil that you pour in from the top. Do you mean that it should be 20 ml?

    Is it that oil that is supposed to find its way down to the bearings as well?
    Lubing the chain and checking tyre pressure every ride is normal, letting all the air out of the fork is not... If that is the type of maintenance needed to ride a lefty then it really is not worth the hassle for me, the fork is not that much better.

    This is not the solo air spring problem, that broke after about 20 hours riding and changed to the new coil spring, has been working since then.

  38. #588
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    Same purpose, oil bath, yep. Why they have 10 is beyond me, it's been 20 per the factory for as long as the Hybrids have been around.

    Simple solution, don't let the air out, or, simpler still, run less air and bottom out once or twice every couple rides. The fork is designed to do reset when it bottoms out, part of why the new ones are redesigned.

    Air removal is a belt and suspenders type safety precaution. The slight potential exists for the damper to have completely unscrewed itself, and be hanging on by a thread, so when you take the top collar off, it blows out the top.

    Me? Never seen it happen, been resetting my own fork once a month or so for many many years.

    But if you use a pocket protector, you may want to let the air out......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  39. #589
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    Thanks for the advice, I will try a bit lower pressure and see if that helps.

  40. #590
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    Just remember, needs to be low enough that you actually whack bottom a time or two every couple rides.

    Just dropping 5 PSI or whatever, isn't in and of itself, going to do a thing!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  41. #591
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    delete, wrong thread....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-13313732_10209796352049729_329495647_o.jpg  


  42. #592
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Please help! Race this weekend!

    Noticed constant oil passing the top cap..than I unscrew the cap to see what was happening and I can see that the leak is coming from underneath this bolt on the picture...if I press the bolt down I see the oil coming up.

    I can understand that pressing it...its releasing the fork...not pressing and its locking the fork....but why is it leaking?

    I have the Allen key that fits on this bolt...but not sure what to do...if it's just loose and I need to tighten it up (clock whise?)...or....what?


  43. #593
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    White fork so, several years old. When was it last serviced?

    There's a small seal deep at the other end of that (and no, you can't unscrew that and get to it) that is likely hardened, and allowing oil to pass.

    Service time, but it should affect your race too much, just won't have complete lockout, and it may top out a bit harshly due to lack or complete rebound control.

    I'd get it done ASAP after though.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  44. #594
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    White fork so, several years old. When was it last serviced?

    There's a small seal deep at the other end of that (and no, you can't unscrew that and get to it) that is likely hardened, and allowing oil to pass.

    Service time, but it should affect your race too much, just won't have complete lockout, and it may top out a bit harshly due to lack or complete rebound control.

    I'd get it done ASAP after though.
    Never serviced, passed due for sure!....so turning the bolt either direction won't do anything to the fork? I know that there is a bigger Hex key slot around this bolt that is to adjust rebound...but what about this tinny bolt? To access the Hex this bolt needs to be pressed than the key from the lockout can engage on the rebound...still trying to understand the function of this bolt...

  45. #595
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    You're looking at the very top end of internal guts that will make no sense unless viewed in an exploded fashion.

    Suffice to say, it does nothing to help you. Were I to have the whole damper apart in my hands, I'd unscrew that at some stage for a final disassembly.

    The 6 mm key you see, matches the XLR units actuator if you take a peek at it. It turns, thus turning that red shaft to adjust rebound speed.

    Walk away. Unless you have all the tools, and knowledge, you're grasping at invisible straws, and should just do you race, or get another one to do it on if this causes you angst!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  46. #596
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    Quote Originally Posted by jlamuk View Post
    hi everyone I would be very grateful if someone could help me. I have a 2014 pbr 29er 100mm travel Cannondale lefty hybrid fitted to my 2014 scalpel 29er. recently my lefty it has started making a click noise (which can be felt at the handlebars) when compressed especially when standing up on the peddles going up hill rocking the bike from side to side. I have done a manual reset and checked the tightness of the bolts up front and everything seems to be as it should be. does anyone have any ideas as to what could be causing the noise?
    Check your clamps are torqued up. 7nm if I recall? Regards
    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Offset is actually 55mm, and a2c is 530....

    Hope that helps!

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

  47. #597
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    Hi all, man this thread is amazing. I've gone from knowing nothing at all about Leftys (apart from having wanted one since I was a kid) to feeling a bit more comfortable with my recent introduction to them, a second hand Lefty Max 140 FFD.

    Quick question which may be daft but thought worth asking:

    I think I've established that my rebound shaft seal is still working since I don't have oil in the boot and I didn't see oil blow by in the upper or on the shaft nut when changing the spring, yes I'm still running it coil sprung
    Also an oil change without changing the foam yielded a fully locked fork which I would have thought would definitely have triggered blowing by of the shaft seal since presumably the damper pressure would be huge when pushing down on a locked fork.
    I have no idea if the seal has ever been updated to the quad as I have no service history for the fork so I was mulling over checking and or changing it 'before' it becomes an issue.

    I think I've got a handle on the procedure from reading all previous posts:
    Drain oil
    Comp damper out
    Spring out
    Rebound shaft out
    Undo shaft nut with 19mm socket on extension.
    Replace seal and rebuild

    So finally to my actual question (sorry)
    Is there any risk of disturbing the lower races when changing the seal and would you recommend taping round the lower to be extra safe?

    Thanks all

  48. #598
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    enjoyThe official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_5480.jpg

    8yrs old and works

  49. #599
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    hello

    i have some strange problem with lefty XLR 90 29. It's one and a half year old. It's inflated to 140psi. When i drive on flat surface everything seems to be ok. But when i drive into steep climb the the fork just fall down to only 1cm od travel. But when in lift up the front wheel everything gets back for maybe 10s and then again and again...
    It's the same problem when i drive on flat surface with no hands on handlebar. The fork falls down in a second.

    Has anyone had the same problem?

    and sorry for my english

  50. #600
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    Quote Originally Posted by hooger View Post
    hello

    Broken wave washer in the Solo Air piston.

    Swap it out fro an unbroken one, or get one of the newer, freshly released coil spring SA pistons instead.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

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