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  1. #501
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    I have just read through the 'Olaf Solo Air Assembly Upgrade' instructions, this replaces the current solo air piston and wave washer, does anyone know when this update will become available.

  2. #502
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    The Olaf and SM use a larger diameter one.

    I got the standard version a week ago, I assume the larger ones aren't far behind...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  3. #503
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    Is this a free repair like the stem recall? Does the 2012 Lefty and earlier suffer from the wave washer problem too?

  4. #504
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    It is not a warranty, or recall, no.

    They've had wave washers for years now, the designs have changed several times.

    They all broke eventually. The last redesign happened to be somewhat more problematic, hence finally designing a totally different system.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  5. #505
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    So is their a spring for my 2012 vintage or just hybrid and newer?
    Last edited by jschoef; 01-17-2016 at 06:23 PM.

  6. #506
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    This update is for only the most recent Solo Air piston.

    That said, any Solo Air system fork can utilize it, assuming the most recent piston is in place on it first.

    Going forward, anyone purchasing a brad new SoloAir piston, or updating their fork to it, should get the update at that time.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  7. #507
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    Thanks Craig for all the info! Your help on this forum is so great. I like to work on my own bikes and because of you, I was able to actually change the oil on my Lefty last night (long over due). I did have 2 wave washers in there and 1 was broke. I replaced both with the kh042 seal kit. Is there a way to just buy more of those wave washers without the kit?

    I did not change seals on oil caps, I hope it does not come back to haunt me.

  8. #508
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    Honestly, all seals through the whole thing should be changed when you're in there, just a good idea. They are cheap, and not doing so, could, yes, be a problem subsequently. Kinda like doing a timing belt on your car, but not doing the pulleys and water pump while you're at it.

    If you had two springs, you have the older design. Those springs will fade from view pretty quickly. I can't get any more. Next time, it's time to swap to the newest piston.

    This is the X piston, the one seeming to have issues. The earlier ones did break, but far less often.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-dsc_3606.jpg  

    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  9. #509
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    Thanks! I got paranoid and I decided to take apart the fork again to do oil cap seals. When I did, the whole damper came unscrewed and all sorts of parts were out of order (washers, spring, small pin hole nut or something). I tried to put it back together but it feels like there is no damping going on. Is there a diagram or something I can refer too?

  10. #510
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    Not that I know of, sorry.

    I won't brow beat you, but this is why I'm not a big fan of DIY. I get piles of parts in a box, with good frequency.

    Wouldn't have happened had it been done in a complete a to z fashion, as you'd have tightened everything as it all went back together....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  11. #511
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    Ya, I am a DIY fanboy . I took it apart again (3 bleeds now) and got it working. Can I buy that piston from you and all future Cannondale parts?

  12. #512
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    Please help me identify my Lefty. It have an Alloy 2010-2011 F29 XL with an alloy PBR fork. I need to buy parts but I don't have the slightest idea what the travel is.Name:  20160111_205426_HDR.jpg
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  13. #513
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    Quote Originally Posted by jschoef View Post
    Can I buy that piston from you and all future Cannondale parts?
    Nope. Tried Cannondale Experts? I'm not set up to sell small parts, too much effort and time for too little payback.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  14. #514
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    I understand. I still did not change the upper oil cap seals as I can't figure out how to remove it. Does the black top unscrew so I can slide it off?

  15. #515
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    Nope, more involved than that. Multiple tools needed to prevent damage etc.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  16. #516
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    Quote Originally Posted by billfer View Post
    Please help me identify my Lefty. It have an Alloy 2010-2011 F29 XL with an alloy PBR fork. I need to buy parts but I don't have the slightest idea what the travel is.
    You can research the catalogs here: http://www.cannondale.com/en/Interna...keArchive.aspx
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  17. #517
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    Is it that black ring that needs to be unscrewed? I have the vice tool and I'm thinking it needs a shimano cone/hub wrench?

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Nope, more involved than that. Multiple tools needed to prevent damage etc.

  18. #518
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    No, it's press fit.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  19. #519
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    No, it's press fit.
    Thanks! I think I'll take my chances with those seals.

  20. #520
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    Is there any way to pull out the damper on a 2013 XLR without the supercastle tool?

  21. #521
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Is there any way to pull out the damper on a 2013 XLR without the supercastle tool?
    Not a chance, sorry.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  22. #522
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    Hi there,

    Can someone help me out with a technical question?

    I have a Cannondale f29 4 (alloy version) with OPI stem. I would like to switch to a smaller stem (90 mm) but they seem to be out of stock everywhere. Can I use this kit:

    Lefty adaper 1 1 /8" and tapered

    instead and then use a normal stem?

    Thanks

  23. #523
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    Don't think so - that's for converting 'normal' bikes to lefty steerer arrangement. Your best bet might be the supermax steerer and 1.5 stems which is what I believe they use on the 2016 Lefty bikes.

  24. #524
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    U can - but you will need a new bearingset that will fit the Headshok-Frame to the normal steerer!

    Headset reduction HS to 1 1 / 8 "
    Headset reduction HS to tapered

    OR YOU USE:

    KIT STEER LEFTY 1.5"

    with a normal 1.5" Stem

    or the Cdale: Cannondale 1.5 Stem
    For sale:
    - CHRIS KING hub iso Lefty LD disc (Cannondale)


  25. #525
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    U can - but you will need a new bearingset that will fit the Headshok-Frame to the normal steerer!
    Yes - you could do that. But more expensive and possibly less effective than doing it the proper way and bringing the bike up to 2016 spec.

    Only reason I can give for using the 1/8th adapter is that you have a bunch of 1/8th stems you just have to use.

  26. #526
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    ...and its lighter and objective for most of the people nicer.
    For sale:
    - CHRIS KING hub iso Lefty LD disc (Cannondale)


  27. #527
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    Two possibly stupid and answered questions elsewhere, but out of interest...

    Hybrid Leftys:

    1. They do not have a breather hole and filter like traditional leftys. How do they compensate for reduced volume in the telescope under compression?

    2. Should you use light weight suspension fluid in the lower to lubricate the air spring? Given how far away the fluid will settle from the spring itself, and the risk of it shooting out all over your disc rotor when you use a shock pump as mine did yesterday, is grease the better solution?

  28. #528
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    I opened the bottom of my Habits Lefty 2.0 to remove the volume spacers as I wasn't quite getting full suspension travel and found that a) there is a lot of thick blue oil in there unlike in the videos I've seen of this procedure and b) the volume spacers in my lefty are smaller than any I've seen for other leftys. One is about 5mm the other 25mm.
    Should there be so much oil in my fork lower?
    Have maybe CD learnt from feedback that people didn't like such large spacers?
    Does anyone have the manual for the Habit Lefty? On the website they have the "2.0" but its referring to a 100mm 29" not the 120mm 27.5" that I have.
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_4533.jpgThe official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_4531.jpg

  29. #529
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    Volume reducers: Habit it meant to be a fun bike. It wouldn't surprise me if it ships less 'progressive' than than, say, a racy FSi lefty. Pop the smaller spacer out and see if that gets you the progression you want.

    Oil / grease: I'd imagine that's how it ships from the factory because if you the oil you are seeing had migrated from elsewhere you'd have a dead air spring and god knows what else In other forks I've worked on a mix of grease and fluid is used, so it's not unusual to find this stuff, but I thought it was generally a small amount of lightweight fluid that sits in the air chamber.

    tl;dr I don't know but I suspect if you put it all back together it will be fine!

  30. #530
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    The goo is normal, no worries there.

    I wouldn't get hung up on what should or shouldn't be in there. Remove them all, see if you like it, and as long as you don't bottom out several times a ride, it will be fine.

    Like it, but bottoming out a fair bit? Up the pressure till you don't, maybe 10 psi should be all you need to get away from that.

    Too soft, yeah, add the smaller one back, then play from there...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  31. #531
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    So trauma-md over in the Habit thread found the lefty 2.0 27.5" 120mm manual for me. For anyone interested heres the link:
    http://www.cannondale.com/~/media/Fi...%20OMS_EN.ashx

    Im not a good enough rider to have noticed the smallest volume reducer being removed so Im now running it without the bigger of the two spacers. I like it a lot, still got to fine tune what PSI I run in the lefty now. Times on todays ride indicate it was a positive move!

    I have read on a couple of forums that there is the possibility of converting the 2.0 120mm to 130mm travel like on the Habit SE. Does anyone have any further information on this?

  32. #532
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    Question:

    Is there a fast or easy way to remove/replace the front wheel on Lefty 2.0 and Olaf equipped bikes? Without wrenches for the caliper?

    For bike transport in a car or on a rack for example.

  33. #533
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    No

    U need an allenkey.
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  34. #534
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    2016 Solo Air! Hell to the yeah! Mendon upgraded my 2015 Lefty 2.0 XLR to the 2016 Solo Air kit. I just got it back and all put back together and it feels.... Like a Lefty again. The fork was about 9 months old but started feeling metallic-harsh at the bottom of the travel. I sent it to Craig and waited .... And waited .... Well, waited a little longer than normal while Cannondale cranked up the supply chain for the new Lefty 2.0 fork tooling and upgrade kits .... But it was worth the wait. My insight is that if you have a 2015 Lefty 2.0 and you think it doesn't feel as smooth as it is supposed to, it might not be your imagination.


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  35. #535
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    Quote Originally Posted by elefantrider View Post
    Question:

    Is there a fast or easy way to remove/replace the front wheel on Lefty 2.0 and Olaf equipped bikes? Without wrenches for the caliper?

    For bike transport in a car or on a rack for example.
    I don't think so. Get a 1UP rack and never futz with loading your bike again. Holds both wheels securely. The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-imageuploadedbytapatalk1459053898.691096.jpg15 seconds on and 15 seconds off.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

  36. #536
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    Looks like a high quality rack, thanks.

    While working on my bike today, I let out some air (bike was inverted) and some blue fork oil shot out. Is that supposed to happen when you air down? What kind of oil is that? Lefty is a new Olaf.model.

  37. #537
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    Common, yes. No need to replace, they overlube the crap out of the volume reducer in there, that's all that is....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  38. #538
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    Definitely more plush now with less air, even after letting only a tiny bit out. I will keep an eye on the O-ring witness to see if it is close to bottoming out with less air. Ideally, O-ring witness should be how far from the very bottom before unit bottoms out? 1 inch?

  39. #539
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    For sale:
    - CHRIS KING hub iso Lefty LD disc (Cannondale)


  40. #540
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    Quote Originally Posted by elefantrider View Post
    Definitely more plush now with less air, even after letting only a tiny bit out. I will keep an eye on the O-ring witness to see if it is close to bottoming out with less air. Ideally, O-ring witness should be how far from the very bottom before unit bottoms out? 1 inch?
    I wouldn't bother with the o ring, when you bottom out, you'll know it, thunk!

    Bottom out isn't to be avoided, you don't damage anything by doing it, you damage things by doing it many times per ride.....

    Hitting the bottom every couple rides won't hurt a thing, and, means you're using all that travel you purchased!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  41. #541
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    Thanks fellas. Where do I get a Lefty Olaf manual in PDF format? Any special tools needed for maintenance?

  42. #542
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    Interesting - so I don't need to replace the teaspoon of fluid that I might have lost when working with the fork pressure with the bike the correct way up?

  43. #543
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    Does anybody know exactly what changed from 2015 to 2016 models of the Lefty Supermax 2.0 PBR 140mm 27.5" that come on the Trigger Carbon Black Inc. (2015) and the Trigger Carbon 1 (2016)?

    From what I can tell, it is the rebound damper tuning and the updated controls on the PBR button. Anything else?

    Can the 2015 Supermax 2.0 be updated to be identical to the 2016 offering?

  44. #544
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    I have a 2016 Habit Carbon 1 with the Lefty 2.0 and the fork is maintaining air pressure and not leaking any fluid but has no resistance on the compression. Any ideas? Wave spring?

  45. #545
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    Quote Originally Posted by luckyride View Post
    I have a 2016 Habit Carbon 1 with the Lefty 2.0 and the fork is maintaining air pressure and not leaking any fluid but has no resistance on the compression. Any ideas? Wave spring?
    yes

  46. #546
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    I got a 2013 Lefty carbon XLR 100mm on a Scalpel 29er, it sank when it's locked out on climbing, almost zero travel, all the way down. If it's not locked, no problem at all, just like normal. LBS couldn't fix it and don't know what situation was it. Any idea what's going on? Thanks guys!

  47. #547
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    Sounds like a problem in the oil damper. Is your LBS a cannondale dealer - if not, they probably don't have the tools to get the damper out and dissected.

  48. #548
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    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Sounds like a problem in the oil damper. Is your LBS a cannondale dealer - if not, they probably don't have the tools to get the damper out and dissected.
    It's Cannondale dealer, damper has been taken out, couldn't find any damage or unusual. And this model has no wave washer on the damper, nothing do with the wave washer I guess......

  49. #549
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    Pretty normal behavior.

    Though if they said it doesn't have a wave spring, they are clueless.

    Unless it has the Ultra Racerboyz Team Only Unicorn Air Piston, or the SA piston was replaced sometime in the last month or two, your Solo Air piston has a wave spring.

    The fork when locked with pressure constantly applied, will allow oil to slowly work over to the other side of the lock circuit. An momentary unlock, re lock, and it'll pop right back up.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  50. #550
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Pretty normal behavior.

    Though if they said it doesn't have a wave spring, they are clueless.

    Unless it has the Ultra Racerboyz Team Only Unicorn Air Piston, or the SA piston was replaced sometime in the last month or two, your Solo Air piston has a wave spring.

    The fork when locked with pressure constantly applied, will allow oil to slowly work over to the other side of the lock circuit. An momentary unlock, re lock, and it'll pop right back up.
    Thanks for the advice! I will check with LBS again!

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