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  1. #1001
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    Hey Lefty people! I've been a Lefty mechanic for years and I have a problem that has me baffled. Supermax pbr 2.0 140 (alum) - would not hold air from the factory (2016 purchase) but decided to simply do a full service on it before it went out the door 6 months ago. It has come back for THREE rebuilds. Same issue each time. Seems to hold air, we test ride it hard, seems fine. Customer pounds it and it goes flat. Air pressure holds, but fork goes thru stroke. Then it slowly rises back to full extension and seems to work for a bit. The lower the pressure (ie, functional range <100 psi) the faster it fails. if I put 175psi in, it holds and maintains through the rough stuff too. I have replaced the 2Spring TWICE, lower and upper (and inner) air seals TWICE. Used slick honey on the orings, and a small bit of Float Fluid (I have used it successfully on leftys for years). Well, its back again. I talked to Cannondale tech and I got nowhere. Seems like either the lower seal is failing or the plunger seal is failing, then allowing air to leak back from neg to pos chamber. But 2 defective 2Springs randomly??? At this point, I'm wondering if I don't have a defect in the lower leg? (cleaned internals well with alchohol) ANY ideas and thoughts are welcome. I'm not the smartest guy here for sure. Thanks.

  2. #1002
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    My money would be on scratching on the inner surface of the lower leg allowing air to transfer between the chambers.

  3. #1003
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    That's where I'm thinking but I have a new thought. I now know why it holds at high pressure (170psi) ... the customer can't bottom it out. I believe the air transfer (non desireable) is happening at full compression (fully bottomed). I can ride it all day long without issue at 65psi but the customer rides considerabley harder and weighs a lot more - thus when I set up the suspension properly for him, he does bottom once in a while and that's when it's happening. Does that clue help?

  4. #1004
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    Hi all.

    Tried to search but so many pages to go through on Tapatalk.

    I have a new 2018 scalpel si. I wish to convert the xlr lockout to a pbr setup.

    I know on my hybrid it was a complete damper change.

    But I read somewhere that on the 2.0 itís just a top cap change to do the conversion?

    Is that true? And what is the right part number?

    Thanks


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  5. #1005
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    HI Boosted GP, you just need the KH188/ without any other hassle: the modification can be made externally indeed.

  6. #1006
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    easy:

    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  7. #1007
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-lefty2-0parts.jpg

  8. #1008
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    i got this lefty max with pbr internals for my fattie. 2 questions now.

    1. there is subtle thud noise at the end of compression when the fork is all the way back up when the bike is on the ground im pressing down on the fork. is this normal?

    2. what sort of air pump is gonna work on these? seems like the air valve is more ressed in the fitting i cant get a pressure reading when im pumping or when the pump is screwed all the way in. and whats kinda pressure i should be running ? is there a pressure chart?



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  9. #1009
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    Is there a difference in dimensions between an kh149 and kh188 pbr knob? I know the kh188 fits the lefty 2. But will a kh149?


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  10. #1010
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    Quote Originally Posted by Boosted GP View Post
    Is there a difference in dimensions between an kh149 and kh188 pbr knob? I know the kh188 fits the lefty 2. But will a kh149?


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    Both fit the same. The 149 is the old knob style and the 188 is the new knob Style. Think the 188th is available through Cannondale and the 149 is out of stock.

  11. #1011
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    Is it basically that simple to do the reverse? A friend and I were planning on swapping Lefty's when we send ours out for service as he has the remote and I don't. But I'd like to keep this in mind as an option.

  12. #1012
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    I will let you know, but it should be an easy swap. There is a video for it. Got the k h188 kit today, will probably do the swap this weekend and let you know

  13. #1013
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    2 questions....


    a) I've read *most* of this thread - at least Mendon's posts - Which of the 1.0/Booted leftys is considered the "best"...in terms of longevity, serviceability, reliability, function? I say 1.0/Booted as it sounds like the Hybrid and newer non-booted ones are certainly not Mendon's favorite

    b) What patent does Cannondale still own that is preventing someone else from designing their own lefty? I mean you see forks and shocks by many manufacturers and they are essentially the same. A lefty is essentially a Strut that you'd find on a car, so I'm wondering what is preventing someone else from making their own version?

  14. #1014
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    Pretty easy swap. The only slightly difficult thing was getting the little C clip out. Otherwise it was a pretty simple and fast conversion

  15. #1015
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    Your dog looks satisfied with the job!

  16. #1016
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    I might be in the market for a used lockout soon

  17. #1017
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    Hi, just wondered if someone can clear up for me which hubs will work on my Lefty Max 140mm (06/07). It all seems pretty confusing with the Lefty 60, 50, and who knows what else hubs that are out there. Any help would be much appreciated. And I'm 6"4", 220lbs, so I'm looking for at least a 32 spoke version. Thanks.

  18. #1018
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    Hi all,

    Inner leg of my 2K13 Lefty seems to be completley died. How ? Many scratches, inner leg looks more a square than a circle and now i can see oil leak.... I made all services in time, very disapointed.

    I haven't been here from a while, Is there any procedure to remove the leg, I would try to reanodize it.

    Thanks

  19. #1019
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    I use to send my forks to push industries for rebuilds (or rebuild my forks myself) and modifications..well, push doesn't work on lefty forks. So who or where can i send my lefty for modifications? specifically looking to try and get 110mm travel, or upgrade some of the internals to make it a bit more plush.

    I saw some vids and instructions on rebuilding the Lefty fork, seems easy enough to do it myself, but..i can appreciate a great mechanic that can get my fork to the next level. Any and all info will be greatly appreciated

    Jesse

  20. #1020
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    Quote Originally Posted by jesse101 View Post
    I use to send my forks to push industries for rebuilds (or rebuild my forks myself) and modifications..well, push doesn't work on lefty forks. So who or where can i send my lefty for modifications? specifically looking to try and get 110mm travel, or upgrade some of the internals to make it a bit more plush.

    I saw some vids and instructions on rebuilding the Lefty fork, seems easy enough to do it myself, but..i can appreciate a great mechanic that can get my fork to the next level. Any and all info will be greatly appreciated

    Jesse
    Mendon Cyclesmith. No other


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  21. #1021
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    Hello. Need a little help identifying an issue with my lefty 110sl carbon. I noticed on my last ride that I felt like I was going to fall forward on descents. I stopped to check it out and realized the shock is slowly leaking down while locked out or unlocked. The shock does not have an air leak as I checked the pressure before and after the ride. I do not see any oil leaks of any kind. I made a quick video to show the issue. Just looking to see if this is a quick adjustment fix or will it need to go in for repair. Any help would be much appreciated. Here is the video.

    https://youtu.be/QFvNdWVOPCg

  22. #1022
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    Quote Originally Posted by SurfnShoot View Post
    Hello. Need a little help identifying an issue with my lefty 110sl carbon. I noticed on my last ride that I felt like I was going to fall forward on descents. I stopped to check it out and realized the shock is slowly leaking down while locked out or unlocked. The shock does not have an air leak as I checked the pressure before and after the ride. I do not see any oil leaks of any kind. I made a quick video to show the issue. Just looking to see if this is a quick adjustment fix or will it need to go in for repair. Any help would be much appreciated. Here is the video.

    https://youtu.be/QFvNdWVOPCg
    More than likely the o-ring found around the lockout piston (internal). They can lose their round profile and end up allowing oil to seep between it and the ID of the oil cylinder. If it's not seen service in awhile or never, then it's time...

  23. #1023
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    Hey all,

    Curious if anyone else experiences this with their Lefty 2.0 PBR 130mm 27.5. I own the 2016 Habit SE. After only couple of rides I very quickly lose maximum travel. For example, after this weekend of riding, I let all the air out of the Lefty and sank to about 20mm above the recommended 35mm gap from the bottom required of the bearing reset instructions. Doing a reset seems to restore full travel but it seems to occur more rapidly then the 25hr recommendation for a bearing reset. Is this common to occur this quickly? I often ride technical rocky trails here in Boulder CO so maybe they're responsible for more chatter and thus throwing the bearings out of alignment more quickly than the norm. I am currently having it go through a full service but I am wondering if this is a potential sign of something more serious.

    Thanks!

  24. #1024
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    Thats quite normal. So you dont use the full travel all the time.
    Maybe use 5psi less pressure.

    I have to reset maybe every week and i do it before every race to have full performance.
    But i run maybe 5-10psi more in XC conditions.
    For sale:
    - Cannondale 2x Spider XX 120/80



  25. #1025
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    Any update on this? I'm looking at doing the same thing.

  26. #1026
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    Hello all,

    I have a 2016 Cannondale F-Si Carbon with a Lefty 2.0 100mm PBR. I used the bike extensively in 2016 without a single performance issue. In 2017, life got in the way and it was maybe ridden 20 hours. It spent the rest of the time hanging in my garage. It was hung "wheels down" by the handlebars and seat. I've ridden it a couple of times this year and noticed that the rebound damping doesn't seem to work. The PBR knob rotates and the button works and locks the fork out but there is no noticeable difference in rebound rate from - to +.

    I do tend to ride the fork in climb-mode the vast majority of the time. I've read a few threads that suggest this can harm the shock but no explanation of how/why.

    This fork has never been serviced and I've been planning a PBR-to-XLR conversion which I'm going to do now. I also need to add the 2Spring kit. I'm very comfortable with the maintenance on these lefty's and am going to be tackling this myself.

    A couple of questions:
    1) Theories as to why the rebound isn't working?
    2) Where to buy a damper seal kit? I've located the 100HR service kit but it doesn't appear to have the damper guts in it. I've also located a damper service kit for a 1.0 and am assuming that won't work.

    I'm planning to post a write-up on the maintenance which will incorporate a number of online resources. The lack of detailed info about this type of thing online is frustrating with the exception of this thread! The folks on here are extremely knowledgeable and helpful!

    Thanks!

  27. #1027
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    For a rebound, the needle with a thread answers. It is held by a small pin.
    There are two reasons: the needle broke, or the pin broke.

    But, rebound works only on low return speed. If the speed is high, then the shimstacks are opened, on the high-speed compression platform. This platform has a Glide Ring. If glide ring is broken, or shimstacks (unlikely), then all the oil will flow through this platform, so the rebound button will not affect anything. At any speed. Even, perhaps, the oil has already become too dirty.
    Particles of rubber (dirt) hit the shimstacks. Another option: A shaft was turned off. Shimstacks are not pressed, all oil flows through the platform.
    The usual cleaning and oil change helps.

    2) Do you need KH125/A, but this set does not have u-cup rings, - the most important seals. You can refer to the headshok service center, they definitely have, for example to eightyaid (88+).

    in any case, I advise you to change the oil and seals every 100-200 hours (2K-5K km) of driving. If you want that the damper lived long... And oil in bushing every 50-100 hours. And seals in air spring system every 100 hours).
    P.S. sorry for my English)

  28. #1028
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    Update on my post from last week regarding the lefty 2.0 rebound not working correctly. Upon disassembly, I noticed that the solo air bumpers (not sure exactly what they are called) were cracked and pitted. I replaced them with the 2Spring kit and things are functioning exactly as I expected.

    I followed the cannondale 100 hour service video which made the process extremely simple. I did of course need the special tools they require for assembly as well as a number of small pics, scrappers and tweezers.

    While inspecting the damper shafts during re-assembly, I noticed a very small pit in the outer surface of the shaft. Nearly too small to see, it can be felt when the upper air seal runs over it. I fear this will eventually eat the inner upper air seals and potentially the seals inside the damper itself as they repeatedly run over what is likely a very small but sharp edge. I'm not sure if this was like this before dissasembly or potentially something I did during the process. Regardless, I put everything back together and ordered a new damper to be safe. I'll complete another rebuild in a few weeks.

    I can't emphasize the importance of using the cannondale shaft clamps or equivalent enough. These need to be very clean and burr-free and need to be aligned before tightening into a vice. Although I'm not sure I caused the damper shaft damage, I could easily see how it could happen if only a small spec of dirt or metal were to get trapped in between the shaft and the clamps.

    As many have written before, this was not a complicated task. I did change from the PBR to XLR as a part of this maintenance as well. Again, this was not difficult provided you have patience, mechanical aptitude and proper tools. Watch all the videos you can and read this thread. A lot.

  29. #1029
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexdi View Post
    Does anyone know if a Reverb remote will work in place of the XLoc?

    I've got the a XLoc Full Sprint controlling my Hybrid 1.0 Lefty and a Monarch XX. I'm considering trading out the Monarch, I'm wondering if I can pull the remote off an old Reverb to maintain the Lefty's lockout functionality.

    EDIT: Nevermind, silly me. I just realized there's no "locked in" position for the Reverb.
    Xloc off an RS-1 should work just fine?

  30. #1030
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Reducing travel can be done by you, in about 5 minutes.

    Reducing height however, is a more involved process. Easy for someone with the tools, and parts, but not a simple snap, pop type job like travel reduction is....
    What would need to be done for height reduction? I was thinking that with reduced travel I could just slide the lefty up in the clamps to reduce height - no?

    I'm daydreaming about picking up an '09 Optimo cyclocross frame with disc brakes, and doing a Lefty4All conversion to assemble a Made in USLATETM.

    I could start with an Oliver from an actual Slate, but if I could pick up a pre-2011 Lefty for a couple hundred and have it serviced an modified, it would be more satisfying (and likely to happen) than dropping $1200 for an Oliver to attach to a $200 frame.
    wtb: size XL Cannondale Caffeine bike or frame 26" or 29er

  31. #1031
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh_W View Post
    What would need to be done for height reduction? I was thinking that with reduced travel I could just slide the lefty up in the clamps to reduce height - no?

    I'm daydreaming about picking up an '09 Optimo cyclocross frame with disc brakes, and doing a Lefty4All conversion to assemble a Made in USLATETM.

    I could start with an Oliver from an actual Slate, but if I could pick up a pre-2011 Lefty for a couple hundred and have it serviced an modified, it would be more satisfying (and likely to happen) than dropping $1200 for an Oliver to attach to a $200 frame.
    Just put drop bars on the Head Shock equipped SL3000 that is for sale over in the Caffeine thread. I want to buy it myself, but it is too big and my wife would literally scream at me because my current bike status is N+1 where N = the number of bikes I told my wife I would have after buying the latest bike.


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  32. #1032
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quentin View Post
    Just put drop bars on the Head Shock equipped SL3000 that is for sale over in the Caffeine thread. I want to buy it myself, but it is too big and my wife would literally scream at me because my current bike status is N+1 where N = the number of bikes I told my wife I would have after buying the latest bike.
    This one? I actually already have the XL one in the post before that. I've been thinking about putting drop bars on it to go with the aeros, but I want to keep the CAAD5 frame a wheel-swap away from MTB mode, and build a sub-20lb bike for road racing.
    wtb: size XL Cannondale Caffeine bike or frame 26" or 29er

  33. #1033
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh_W View Post
    This one? I actually already have the XL one in the post before that. I've been thinking about putting drop bars on it to go with the aeros, but I want to keep the CAAD5 frame a wheel-swap away from MTB mode, and build a sub-20lb bike for road racing.
    Yup, that one. Haha.

    I built the one on the left for my wife. Optimo frame, 650b wheels. I also have 700x28 road wheels for it and the Slate.




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  34. #1034
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    I have a 2005 Cannondale Jekyll, and just replaced the stock Manitou Splice Super fork with a 2012 Lefty PBR Max 140. It's a brand new unit. All I can say is, holy crap! What a great ride! The small bumps just don't exist, and the lockout worked great on climbs. I have arthritis in my hands, so this was a worthwhile investment for me. While far from cheap, I feel that this is the best thing I could have done with this excellent bike!

  35. #1035
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    Hi,

    I just designed and tested 3d printed castle tool for lefty 2.0. If someone miss it and have access to 3d printer https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2891233

  36. #1036
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    Hello everyone, I just picked up an FSI frame to build up into a SS, because everyone needs a SS in their fleet.

    My question is, since I need a lefty 2.0 for the new XL frame, can I get a 120mm lefty 2.0 off a Habit and reduce the travel to 100mm? There are more 120mm lefty 2.0's around, and hence they are cheaper. As long as I find a 55mm offset one of course. I know it is a relatively easy process to reduce travel with the lefty 1.0, but I can't find any information on what parts I would need and how to do it to the lefty 2.0, if it is possible at all. Can anyone chime in with some clarification?
    I like cake

  37. #1037
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    Hi,

    have someone list (for lefty 2.0) of orings with dimentions used in air spring (2springs), knob and damper ? Like this one http://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/c...l-etc-dlr2.jpg

  38. #1038
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    Any thoughts on the new Lefty Ocho? Curious as to what people who have experience with Lefties think of it, esp someone like MendonCycleSmith.

  39. #1039
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    Quote Originally Posted by king_dave72 View Post
    Any thoughts on the new Lefty Ocho? Curious as to what people who have experience with Lefties think of it, esp someone like MendonCycleSmith.
    There's some chat in the 2019 thread. Someone mentioned the automatic bearing reset feature is gone and that the air spring and damper are parallel as opposed to stacked on top of each other. The new damper looks good, but I think the 2.0 damper was good enough.

    What bothers me the most about it is nothing really to do with it; that the 2.0s are going to be gone in MY19 so the question of how long 2.0 spares will be available needs to be answered. It might be that I end up riding the 2.0s i have to destruction then binning them in favour of Fox or RS.

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