• 01-13-2016
    kennyrc
    I have just read through the 'Olaf Solo Air Assembly Upgrade' instructions, this replaces the current solo air piston and wave washer, does anyone know when this update will become available.
  • 01-14-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    The Olaf and SM use a larger diameter one.

    I got the standard version a week ago, I assume the larger ones aren't far behind...
  • 01-14-2016
    jschoef
    Is this a free repair like the stem recall? Does the 2012 Lefty and earlier suffer from the wave washer problem too?
  • 01-15-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    It is not a warranty, or recall, no.

    They've had wave washers for years now, the designs have changed several times.

    They all broke eventually. The last redesign happened to be somewhat more problematic, hence finally designing a totally different system.
  • 01-17-2016
    jschoef
    So is their a spring for my 2012 vintage or just hybrid and newer?
  • 01-18-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    This update is for only the most recent Solo Air piston.

    That said, any Solo Air system fork can utilize it, assuming the most recent piston is in place on it first.

    Going forward, anyone purchasing a brad new SoloAir piston, or updating their fork to it, should get the update at that time.
  • 01-18-2016
    jschoef
    Thanks Craig for all the info! Your help on this forum is so great. I like to work on my own bikes and because of you, I was able to actually change the oil on my Lefty last night (long over due). I did have 2 wave washers in there and 1 was broke. I replaced both with the kh042 seal kit. Is there a way to just buy more of those wave washers without the kit?

    I did not change seals on oil caps, I hope it does not come back to haunt me.
  • 01-18-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    1 Attachment(s)
    Honestly, all seals through the whole thing should be changed when you're in there, just a good idea. They are cheap, and not doing so, could, yes, be a problem subsequently. Kinda like doing a timing belt on your car, but not doing the pulleys and water pump while you're at it.

    If you had two springs, you have the older design. Those springs will fade from view pretty quickly. I can't get any more. Next time, it's time to swap to the newest piston.

    This is the X piston, the one seeming to have issues. The earlier ones did break, but far less often.
  • 01-18-2016
    jschoef
    Thanks! I got paranoid and I decided to take apart the fork again to do oil cap seals. When I did, the whole damper came unscrewed and all sorts of parts were out of order (washers, spring, small pin hole nut or something). I tried to put it back together but it feels like there is no damping going on. Is there a diagram or something I can refer too?
  • 01-18-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Not that I know of, sorry.

    I won't brow beat you, but this is why I'm not a big fan of DIY. I get piles of parts in a box, with good frequency.

    Wouldn't have happened had it been done in a complete a to z fashion, as you'd have tightened everything as it all went back together....:(
  • 01-18-2016
    jschoef
    Ya, I am a DIY fanboy :). I took it apart again (3 bleeds now) and got it working. Can I buy that piston from you and all future Cannondale parts?
  • 01-18-2016
    billfer
    2 Attachment(s)
    Please help me identify my Lefty. It have an Alloy 2010-2011 F29 XL with an alloy PBR fork. I need to buy parts but I don't have the slightest idea what the travel is.Attachment 1043698Attachment 1043699
  • 01-18-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by jschoef View Post
    Can I buy that piston from you and all future Cannondale parts?

    Nope. Tried Cannondale Experts? I'm not set up to sell small parts, too much effort and time for too little payback.
  • 01-18-2016
    jschoef
    I understand. I still did not change the upper oil cap seals as I can't figure out how to remove it. Does the black top unscrew so I can slide it off?
  • 01-18-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Nope, more involved than that. Multiple tools needed to prevent damage etc.
  • 01-18-2016
    J_Westy
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by billfer View Post
    Please help me identify my Lefty. It have an Alloy 2010-2011 F29 XL with an alloy PBR fork. I need to buy parts but I don't have the slightest idea what the travel is.

    You can research the catalogs here: http://www.cannondale.com/en/Interna...keArchive.aspx
  • 01-19-2016
    jschoef
    Is it that black ring that needs to be unscrewed? I have the vice tool and I'm thinking it needs a shimano cone/hub wrench?

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Nope, more involved than that. Multiple tools needed to prevent damage etc.

  • 01-19-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    No, it's press fit.
  • 01-19-2016
    jschoef
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    No, it's press fit.

    Thanks! I think I'll take my chances with those seals. :)
  • 01-19-2016
    HSracer
    Is there any way to pull out the damper on a 2013 XLR without the supercastle tool?
  • 01-19-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Is there any way to pull out the damper on a 2013 XLR without the supercastle tool?

    Not a chance, sorry.
  • 02-24-2016
    mrlicksucker
    Hi there,

    Can someone help me out with a technical question?

    I have a Cannondale f29 4 (alloy version) with OPI stem. I would like to switch to a smaller stem (90 mm) but they seem to be out of stock everywhere. Can I use this kit:

    Lefty adaper 1 1 /8" and tapered

    instead and then use a normal stem?

    Thanks
  • 02-25-2016
    Howards
    Don't think so - that's for converting 'normal' bikes to lefty steerer arrangement. Your best bet might be the supermax steerer and 1.5 stems which is what I believe they use on the 2016 Lefty bikes.
  • 02-25-2016
    Chrizzzz
    U can - but you will need a new bearingset that will fit the Headshok-Frame to the normal steerer!

    Headset reduction HS to 1 1 / 8 "
    Headset reduction HS to tapered

    OR YOU USE:

    KIT STEER LEFTY 1.5"

    with a normal 1.5" Stem ;)

    or the Cdale: Cannondale 1.5 Stem
  • 02-25-2016
    Howards
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by Chrizzzz View Post
    U can - but you will need a new bearingset that will fit the Headshok-Frame to the normal steerer!

    Yes - you could do that. But more expensive and possibly less effective than doing it the proper way and bringing the bike up to 2016 spec.

    Only reason I can give for using the 1/8th adapter is that you have a bunch of 1/8th stems you just have to use.
  • 02-25-2016
    Chrizzzz
    ...and its lighter and objective for most of the people nicer.
  • 02-28-2016
    Howards
    Two possibly stupid and answered questions elsewhere, but out of interest...

    Hybrid Leftys:

    1. They do not have a breather hole and filter like traditional leftys. How do they compensate for reduced volume in the telescope under compression?

    2. Should you use light weight suspension fluid in the lower to lubricate the air spring? Given how far away the fluid will settle from the spring itself, and the risk of it shooting out all over your disc rotor when you use a shock pump as mine did yesterday, is grease the better solution?
  • 03-15-2016
    Searamp
    2 Attachment(s)
    I opened the bottom of my Habits Lefty 2.0 to remove the volume spacers as I wasn't quite getting full suspension travel and found that a) there is a lot of thick blue oil in there unlike in the videos I've seen of this procedure and b) the volume spacers in my lefty are smaller than any I've seen for other leftys. One is about 5mm the other 25mm.
    Should there be so much oil in my fork lower?
    Have maybe CD learnt from feedback that people didn't like such large spacers?
    Does anyone have the manual for the Habit Lefty? On the website they have the "2.0" but its referring to a 100mm 29" not the 120mm 27.5" that I have.
    Attachment 1056927Attachment 1056928
  • 03-15-2016
    Howards
    Volume reducers: Habit it meant to be a fun bike. It wouldn't surprise me if it ships less 'progressive' than than, say, a racy FSi lefty. Pop the smaller spacer out and see if that gets you the progression you want.

    Oil / grease: I'd imagine that's how it ships from the factory because if you the oil you are seeing had migrated from elsewhere you'd have a dead air spring and god knows what else :) In other forks I've worked on a mix of grease and fluid is used, so it's not unusual to find this stuff, but I thought it was generally a small amount of lightweight fluid that sits in the air chamber.

    tl;dr I don't know but I suspect if you put it all back together it will be fine!
  • 03-15-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    The goo is normal, no worries there.

    I wouldn't get hung up on what should or shouldn't be in there. Remove them all, see if you like it, and as long as you don't bottom out several times a ride, it will be fine.

    Like it, but bottoming out a fair bit? Up the pressure till you don't, maybe 10 psi should be all you need to get away from that.

    Too soft, yeah, add the smaller one back, then play from there...
  • 03-18-2016
    Searamp
    So trauma-md over in the Habit thread found the lefty 2.0 27.5" 120mm manual for me. For anyone interested heres the link:
    http://www.cannondale.com/~/media/Fi...%20OMS_EN.ashx

    Im not a good enough rider to have noticed the smallest volume reducer being removed so Im now running it without the bigger of the two spacers. I like it a lot, still got to fine tune what PSI I run in the lefty now. Times on todays ride indicate it was a positive move!

    I have read on a couple of forums that there is the possibility of converting the 2.0 120mm to 130mm travel like on the Habit SE. Does anyone have any further information on this?
  • 03-21-2016
    elefantrider
    Question:

    Is there a fast or easy way to remove/replace the front wheel on Lefty 2.0 and Olaf equipped bikes? Without wrenches for the caliper?

    For bike transport in a car or on a rack for example.
  • 03-24-2016
    Chrizzzz
    No

    U need an allenkey.
  • 03-26-2016
    Scott In MD
    2016 Solo Air! Hell to the yeah! Mendon upgraded my 2015 Lefty 2.0 XLR to the 2016 Solo Air kit. I just got it back and all put back together and it feels.... Like a Lefty again. The fork was about 9 months old but started feeling metallic-harsh at the bottom of the travel. I sent it to Craig and waited .... And waited .... Well, waited a little longer than normal while Cannondale cranked up the supply chain for the new Lefty 2.0 fork tooling and upgrade kits .... But it was worth the wait. My insight is that if you have a 2015 Lefty 2.0 and you think it doesn't feel as smooth as it is supposed to, it might not be your imagination.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • 03-26-2016
    Scott In MD
    1 Attachment(s)
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by elefantrider View Post
    Question:

    Is there a fast or easy way to remove/replace the front wheel on Lefty 2.0 and Olaf equipped bikes? Without wrenches for the caliper?

    For bike transport in a car or on a rack for example.

    I don't think so. Get a 1UP rack and never futz with loading your bike again. Holds both wheels securely. Attachment 105973115 seconds on and 15 seconds off.


    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
  • 03-29-2016
    elefantrider
    Looks like a high quality rack, thanks.

    While working on my bike today, I let out some air (bike was inverted) and some blue fork oil shot out. Is that supposed to happen when you air down? What kind of oil is that? Lefty is a new Olaf.model.
  • 03-29-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Common, yes. No need to replace, they overlube the crap out of the volume reducer in there, that's all that is....
  • 03-30-2016
    elefantrider
    Definitely more plush now with less air, even after letting only a tiny bit out. I will keep an eye on the O-ring witness to see if it is close to bottoming out with less air. Ideally, O-ring witness should be how far from the very bottom before unit bottoms out? 1 inch?
  • 03-30-2016
    Chrizzzz
  • 03-30-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by elefantrider View Post
    Definitely more plush now with less air, even after letting only a tiny bit out. I will keep an eye on the O-ring witness to see if it is close to bottoming out with less air. Ideally, O-ring witness should be how far from the very bottom before unit bottoms out? 1 inch?

    I wouldn't bother with the o ring, when you bottom out, you'll know it, thunk!

    Bottom out isn't to be avoided, you don't damage anything by doing it, you damage things by doing it many times per ride.....

    Hitting the bottom every couple rides won't hurt a thing, and, means you're using all that travel you purchased!
  • 03-30-2016
    elefantrider
    Thanks fellas. Where do I get a Lefty Olaf manual in PDF format? Any special tools needed for maintenance?
  • 03-30-2016
    Howards
    Interesting - so I don't need to replace the teaspoon of fluid that I might have lost when working with the fork pressure with the bike the correct way up?
  • 03-31-2016
    hazelnusse
    Does anybody know exactly what changed from 2015 to 2016 models of the Lefty Supermax 2.0 PBR 140mm 27.5" that come on the Trigger Carbon Black Inc. (2015) and the Trigger Carbon 1 (2016)?

    From what I can tell, it is the rebound damper tuning and the updated controls on the PBR button. Anything else?

    Can the 2015 Supermax 2.0 be updated to be identical to the 2016 offering?
  • 04-04-2016
    luckyride
    I have a 2016 Habit Carbon 1 with the Lefty 2.0 and the fork is maintaining air pressure and not leaking any fluid but has no resistance on the compression. Any ideas? Wave spring?
  • 04-04-2016
    savo
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by luckyride View Post
    I have a 2016 Habit Carbon 1 with the Lefty 2.0 and the fork is maintaining air pressure and not leaking any fluid but has no resistance on the compression. Any ideas? Wave spring?

    yes
  • 04-06-2016
    scalpel226
    I got a 2013 Lefty carbon XLR 100mm on a Scalpel 29er, it sank when it's locked out on climbing, almost zero travel, all the way down. If it's not locked, no problem at all, just like normal. LBS couldn't fix it and don't know what situation was it. Any idea what's going on? Thanks guys!
  • 04-06-2016
    adrenalnjunky
    Sounds like a problem in the oil damper. Is your LBS a cannondale dealer - if not, they probably don't have the tools to get the damper out and dissected.
  • 04-10-2016
    scalpel226
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by adrenalnjunky View Post
    Sounds like a problem in the oil damper. Is your LBS a cannondale dealer - if not, they probably don't have the tools to get the damper out and dissected.

    It's Cannondale dealer, damper has been taken out, couldn't find any damage or unusual. And this model has no wave washer on the damper, nothing do with the wave washer I guess......
  • 04-10-2016
    MendonCycleSmith
    Pretty normal behavior.

    Though if they said it doesn't have a wave spring, they are clueless.

    Unless it has the Ultra Racerboyz Team Only Unicorn Air Piston, or the SA piston was replaced sometime in the last month or two, your Solo Air piston has a wave spring.

    The fork when locked with pressure constantly applied, will allow oil to slowly work over to the other side of the lock circuit. An momentary unlock, re lock, and it'll pop right back up.
  • 04-10-2016
    scalpel226
    Quote:

    Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Pretty normal behavior.

    Though if they said it doesn't have a wave spring, they are clueless.

    Unless it has the Ultra Racerboyz Team Only Unicorn Air Piston, or the SA piston was replaced sometime in the last month or two, your Solo Air piston has a wave spring.

    The fork when locked with pressure constantly applied, will allow oil to slowly work over to the other side of the lock circuit. An momentary unlock, re lock, and it'll pop right back up.

    Thanks for the advice! I will check with LBS again!