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  1. #451
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    I know everyone is using a smart phone or GPS system as a bike computer nowadays, but for various reasons I still need to occasionally use a plain old wireless computer that mounts to the handlebars. Any recommendations for how to mount the pickup down on the OPI lower, and where to mount the magnet?
    Main Ride: 2016 Jekyll Carbon 2
    '11 Pugsley
    '97 Uber V conversion

  2. #452
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    Might not be the right place for this but I don't want to spam new threads. I have 3 questions; if anyone can answer it'd be much appreciated:

    1) am I understanding the Lefty manual correctly (http://media.cannondale.com/media//u...Hrs%200415.pdf pg 17) in saying that a 2015 Supermax 2.0 PBR 130 - 29' with a 100mm spacing (small) will fit on a 97mm headtube max, a 112.9mm (medium) on a 109.7mm and under, a 125.6mm (large) on a 122.4mm and under, 137.6mm (x-large) on a 134.4mm and under, and those are the 4 standard Lefty sizes?

    2) A 100mm headtube will require a medium Lefty and will not work with a small, and a 115mm headtube will require a large and not work with a medium (see 17" and 18.5" frame: http://www.workswellbikes.com/web/view/161.html)?

    3) Is it safe to purchase a used Lefty off Ebay in terms of having a valid warranty and not having been beat up internally? I'm currently looking at: http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...876661&alt=web. It looks like a 2015 per the color scheme and in great shape. The seller has no information regarding its history. It has a 4.5" clamp per the seller; is that likely the 112.9mm medium?

    Thanks in advance. Excited to go Lefty on a new 29+ build I'm planning out!

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  3. #453
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    I have a 2009 Lefty Max Carbon with PBR, and would dearly love to change it over to the OPI lowers - yes, I'm a weight weenie. Can anyone point the way to a parts listing so I can find the part number for the correct lower? Is KH096 the correct one?

    Also, am I correct in that the 130mm travel that my Lefty has is limited by the length of the damper, and if I fitted a 140mm damper, I'd have 140mm travel?

    Thanks,

    Jacques

  4. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heusch View Post
    Hello!

    Because of no-reply in European MTB News, I try it in this Forum. To improve performance I want to clean and grease the needle bearing with better grease. So far so good.
    My challange is to demount a Hybrid Lefty XLR. It´s all done but the last step confuse me. I can´t pull away the lower tube from the upper. Is there any secret lock?
    Hi guys,

    I get the same problem, anyone have the solution ?

    Thanks.The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20131116_131249k.jpg

  5. #455
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsptsa View Post
    Hi guys,

    I get the same problem, anyone have the solution ?

    Thanks.Click image for larger version. 

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    Cannot be done by end users, or even well trained shop mechanics.

    I work on thousands of Leftys, I'm not even allowed in currently, though that is supposed to change early this Spring, and I have to say about damn time. .

    In the US? The Cannondale Factory Tech Room is the only place it can be done at this point. In the EU, I believe there are 3 or 4 Cannondale service centers that have been given the go ahead to start doing this.

    Besides, what grease you use is irrelevant because those forks use an oil bath, not grease.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  6. #456
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    Thanks for your reply, if I understand correctly, there is no possibility to change needle bearing myself.

    Am I right ?

  7. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by rsptsa View Post
    Thanks for your reply, if I understand correctly, there is no possibility to change needle bearing myself.

    Am I right ?
    Correct.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  8. #458
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-img_20150918_135726.jpg

    Can you tell me if the o'ring is damaged ?

    Thanks

  9. #459
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    Yes, and I'm guessing the detents on the rebound knob when you turn it are missing too?

    There's two ball bearings that should be under that seal there, better find them or they'll wreak havoc inside...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  10. #460
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    Fortunately, balls was still in place !

    Now I understand why I never felt any difference when knob rebound was rotated !

    Last question I hope, is there a special procedure for oil filling into cartridge ?

    Thanks.theyoilling

  11. #461
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    Cool.

    Yes, pretty multi step, and you'll end up with bubbles in there if you aren't careful.

    Might be a video or something floating about the web if you're trying to DIY....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  12. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy b. View Post
    I know everyone is using a smart phone or GPS system as a bike computer nowadays, but for various reasons I still need to occasionally use a plain old wireless computer that mounts to the handlebars. Any recommendations for how to mount the pickup down on the OPI lower, and where to mount the magnet?
    I mount a small rare earth magnet on the rotor. The pickup aligns easily at that point. It's been there for over 2 years and hasn't missed a beat.

    Tim
    Last edited by Wombat; 10-01-2015 at 02:43 PM.

  13. #463
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    Hey guys,

    I have a 2013 XLR that has not been serviced before. It feels like I'm losing a bit of small bump compliance. It definitely doesn't ride a plush as it did when I got it. So I'm thinking at rebuild is in store.

    Can anyone point me to where I can get a rebuild kit and anything that explains how to do it? I can't seem to find much on it.

    Thanks!

  14. #464
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    Looks like I'm upgrading my Carbon Speed 80mm travel fork to the PBR internals. The original cartridge is damaged and Cannondale doesn't make a replacement anymore. $300 to get the backup bike back on the wall.


    Sent from Tandy 400

  15. #465
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    Quote Originally Posted by HSracer View Post
    Hey guys,

    I have a 2013 XLR that has not been serviced before. It feels like I'm losing a bit of small bump compliance. It definitely doesn't ride a plush as it did when I got it. So I'm thinking at rebuild is in store.

    Can anyone point me to where I can get a rebuild kit and anything that explains how to do it? I can't seem to find much on it.

    Thanks!
    I get my Lefty bits from Dr Cannondale in Germany or Cannondaleexperts in the US. There is a video on Vimeo outlining the 100hr service procedure, its for the Hybrid 2, this helped me out along with other video's on you tube.

  16. #466
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Here is an issue to share and ask if anyone been there: I recently purchased a Flash with a lefty carbon XLR (bonded clamp). Got the bike but after a quick first inspection I found a crack on the upper clamp of the lefty. Contacted the seller kindly asking to locate the original owner of the fork and hopefully get a replacement fork with C'dale. Seller found information of the shop where the bike came from originally, Bike shop got in touch with C'dale and here is what they have to say:

    'Cannondale is willing to do a crash replacement for the fork, which would bring the price of a new fork down to $1000 from $1600'.

    Anyone heard of this kind of rip off???? In my mind C'dale should replace the fork just by looking at the picture...definitely looks like a material failure / week spot...not from a crash.


    At least the seller will give me a full refund.




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  17. #467
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    You've outed yourself as not the original purchaser, IF Cdale reads these threads...
    And it looks like it may be the result of over tightening....?

  18. #468
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    I'm all about companies honoring warranties, but it clearly looks like the bolt was overtightened. Not really cdales fault. You should definitely have the seller refund every cent incudimg shipping if applicable. I HIGHLY doubt they weren't aware of the issue when they sold it to you.

  19. #469
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    Ditto.

    Overtightened bolt, seen plenty over the years.

    That they were willing to sell you a new one at discount is then, proof of them being honorable, not shady.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  20. #470
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Ok thanks guys...full refund is being done. Don't really care if Cannondale see's my post. Seller was very nice and attentive and the location of the crack is very hard to see with the fork installed...so I gave him my understanding. To bad for him from now on.


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  21. #471
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    Sucks to have to send it back but not much else you could have done.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk

  22. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by dietz31684 View Post
    Sucks to have to send it back but not much else you could have done.

    Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
    Is all good...I even tried to help the guy...said that if he sells all the parts separately he could make up for the price loss of the fork. The bike have really good component, Flash carbon Frame 29er, Mavic cross max wheel, fizik Cyrano post, Fizik tundra 2 carbon rails! Easton carbon handlebars, XT brakeset almost new pads, XT crank...single speed though. I could have done it...and keep the lefty fork for parts with me so I could open and learn how to service the fork......but didn't wanted to take the risk of taking forever to sell everything.......or should I have done it?!?! Damn it!

  23. #473
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    Quote Originally Posted by andrepsz View Post
    Is all good...I even tried to help the guy...said that if he sells all the parts separately he could make up for the price loss of the fork. The bike have really good component, Flash carbon Frame 29er, Mavic cross max wheel, fizik Cyrano post, Fizik tundra 2 carbon rails! Easton carbon handlebars, XT brakeset almost new pads, XT crank...single speed though. I could have done it...and keep the lefty fork for parts with me so I could open and learn how to service the fork......but didn't wanted to take the risk of taking forever to sell everything.......or should I have done it?!?! Damn it!
    he can probably have it repaired, no? someone good with welding or metal work would have to chime in.

  24. #474
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoNin9r View Post
    he can probably have it repaired, no? someone good with welding or metal work would have to chime in.
    Such a critical location...I would not ride that fork even after welding it. Don't understand why Cannondale had to bond the clamp to the carbon tube like this....it should be removable!


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  25. #475
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    Can the travel on a lefty 100mm off a 2015 scapel be increased to 120mm?

  26. #476
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    My Lefty developed some fine scratches on lower leg, some of them I can feel with my nail, I think due to dust/dirt (even if I totally avoid riding in mud)?
    How much impact these scratches can have on fork performance?


  27. #477
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    Out of interest, how many KMs has that done?

    From my experience with normal forks, when the stantions start to get scratched it wears out the bushings and you get play and / or water getting in and interesting things like hydro-locking start to occur.

    As Lefty 2.0 is the right way up, you might get your oil bath falling out. More on that in my next post....

  28. #478
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    So my brand new 100mm 2.0 PBR dumped it's oil bath all over my workshop floor. It had fifty miles on it.

    Symptoms were a puddle of gold oil on the floor with an oil residue running down from the lower over the post-mount adapter.


    Bummed.

  29. #479
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    No more than 2500 km, I bought it in mid 2015 and since last year most of my trainings are done on the road bike.

  30. #480
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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    No more than 2500 km, I bought it in mid 2015 and since last year most of my trainings are done on the road bike.
    Do you regularly clean the wiper seal? It's important to get all the gunk out of it to prevent sand/dirt from wearing the lower.

    Have you been through this thread?

    2013 Lefty scratches?

    If it starts dumping oil, you may need a new lower.

  31. #481
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    Yes, I do remove the protection and clean it almost after every ride. I knew that it was another thread open with this problem but couldn't find it, I even posted there one year ago but I forgot:-)
    A new lower sounds not nice and if I understand correctly this operation is not possible by the local service, right?

  32. #482
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    Quote Originally Posted by muntos View Post
    A new lower sounds not nice and if I understand correctly this operation is not possible by the local service, right?
    I think that's a job for a service centre, yes. But you'd only need to do it if the lower gets so scratched that it starts destroying the wiper seal & bushing. If it's still holding oil in the open bath in the bottom of the lower, then happy days.

    I'd send if off for a full service and inspection if I were you.

  33. #483
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    Hallo

    Does anybody know if its possible to change the travel on a 2014 Lefty Carbon 90mm to 100mm?
    Last edited by Alphatdi; 10-21-2015 at 01:01 PM.

  34. #484
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    Hello all,
    Building an '09 Caffeine 1 frame up to replace the one stolen from me a while back.
    Got the frame now looking for the Lefty. Just not sure of the range in years of Lefty forks to come as close as what the bike came with originally? I know it is a Carbon Speed DLR thats about it.
    And to confirm, is it the same fork for 26" wheels to 29" wheels just adding/removing the travel reducers accordingly?
    And of course, if anyone knows where to buy it other than the classifieds here or Ebay.

    Thanks

  35. #485
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    Quote Originally Posted by lyketobyke View Post
    Hello all
    The Speed forks are all the same, so any one of those would be a good "direct replacement" choice.

    They were all 110 for 26, 80 for 29, and yes, remove spacers (and a volume reducer swap or removal depending on Solo Air or coil negative spring type for optimal performance) to go 29 to 26, and vice versa.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  36. #486
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    Question regarding changing travel on hybrid 2.0 2016:
    The new habit comes in a 120 mm and a 130 mm setup, should it be an easy task to convert the 120 to 130?
    Cant seem to find any parts diagram online.

    Thanks and please feel free to move post or direct elsewhere if needed, new poster long time lurker as they say..

  37. #487
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    I have a DLR2 with a few hundred miles since it was serviced. It won't hold air for more than a few hours suddenly. I checked the valve core. Any other thoughts?

  38. #488
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    Literally won't, or appears to not?

    As in, no pressure when you put the pump back on, or, it sags down and feels super soft?

    Former? Sounds like a seal not doing it's job (torn, rolled, wrong size/style), something. Latter? Is it Solo Air, may be the wave washer broke.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  39. #489
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Literally won't, or appears to not?

    As in, no pressure when you put the pump back on, or, it sags down and feels super soft?

    Former? Sounds like a seal not doing it's job (torn, rolled, wrong size/style), something. Latter? Is it Solo Air, may be the wave washer broke.

    Hi Craig,

    I took a closer look at it. It is actually holding air. It wasn't registering until I gave the shock pump fitting a final little snug. As for the symptom that caused me to question it; The fork does sag down 'fairly easily' for the about the first inch of travel. It just feels different than it used to for lack of a better explanation. I did a bearing reset on it maybe a month or so ago. I don't recall it feeling that way before that. I haven't ridden the bike much since then as I've been using my other bike lately. I don't think it's Solo Air. It's a 2007'ish DLR2 with a standard damper.

  40. #490
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    May be Solo air, it could have been updated, that fork will take it.

    If it feels initially soft, could be a few things. Lighter bearing preload, or removal of the air chamber volume reducer come to mind.

    Did you put it to the same pressure as before, after you got it back?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  41. #491
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    May be Solo air, it could have been updated, that fork will take it.

    If it feels initially soft, could be a few things. Lighter bearing preload, or removal of the air chamber volume reducer come to mind.

    Did you put it to the same pressure as before, after you got it back?
    The air pressure is the same, maybe a little higher. It's been about a year and a half since the service, so I'm overdue. I'll send it in after the new year.

  42. #492
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    Cannondale has finally committed to a time frame for the new Solo Air pistons.

    They won't rely on a wave washer. Should be shipping end of January.

    That should (long term) resolve the issues many folks have been seeing like this.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  43. #493
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Cannondale has finally committed to a time frame for the new Solo Air pistons.

    They won't rely on a wave washer. Should be shipping end of January.

    That should (long term) resolve the issues many folks have been seeing like this.
    Hey Craig, got a techy question, and need an opinion.
    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-20151223_110725_zpso6qwpvdj.jpg

    You rebuilt this DLR2 a couple of years ago for a buddy, he let a relative ride the bike for most of last year, and it was brought to me to find out why the front brake was locked up. I immediately noticed there was oil everywhere on the lower, and no rebound dampening happening in the fork.

    I'm assuming that old damper has blown out the seals (again) and called Cannondale fork support to order a rebuild kit (I have a dealer account). Guy there told me that those old dampers were prone to this and they don't have the parts available for a full damper rebuild. Instead he told me I should swap in a new PBR damper (KH087), Air piston kit (KH052), and new Upper Collar (KH101) to bring it up to pre-hybrid alloy PBR spec.

    He also says I need 3 reducer clips (HD010) - but these should be the same as the 3 travel spacers already in the DLR2, correct?

    I'm willing to do the upgrade, as it won't cost me nearly what retail is, but, should I wait for the new solo air upgrade parts, or rebuild the current damper for now (if I can find a seal kit)?

  44. #494
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    I don't see any spacers, so I assume they just aren't in the pic? Is it used on a 29er even? That'd be the only reason for the spacers.

    Hogwash on them being "prone" to leaks.

    The new stuff will do it too if you ride it long enough. As long as the shafts are smooth and free of damage, it's just as rebuildable as the new PBR's.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  45. #495
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I don't see any spacers, so I assume they just aren't in the pic? Is it used on a 29er even? That'd be the only reason for the spacers.

    Hogwash on them being "prone" to leaks.

    The new stuff will do it too if you ride it long enough. As long as the shafts are smooth and free of damage, it's just as rebuildable as the new PBR's.
    Yes, on a 29er, parts are on a tray out of the shot.

    Shafts are all good looking, telescope feels smooth, needles don't need a reset.

    I just went back out to the shop to play with it a little more, and found that the lower damper cap wasn't snug, took a full rotation before it snugged up. Looks likt it might have backed out a little. Threads look good in the plastic. I'm wondering if that might be the extent of the problem. I'm going to refill the damper and bleed for now and see where it goes.

    5 weight oil in the damper?

  46. #496
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    That's a bandaid.

    The oil all went through the fork telescope. Rebuilding it is a really good idea if you don't want massive migration from being "super lubed" as well as oil weeping out the boot for a good long time to come.

    Yes, loose caps, they happen with ride time. Supposedly "fixed" with the newer alloy caps, I still see loose ones of those, so I pay little heed to them having "made it better". They still, simply need love periodically, like any high performance product.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  47. #497
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    Oh, and yes, 5 wt minimum....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  48. #498
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    That's a bandaid.

    The oil all went through the fork telescope. Rebuilding it is a really good idea if you don't want massive migration from being "super lubed" as well as oil weeping out the boot for a good long time to come.

    Yes, loose caps, they happen with ride time. Supposedly "fixed" with the newer alloy caps, I still see loose ones of those, so I pay little heed to them having "made it better". They still, simply need love periodically, like any high performance product.
    Ok - I've committed to a telescope teardown to clean and relube.

    I'm stuck at the retaining clip that the outer races are locked into.

    I can get one or 2 pried out of the way but even if I get the other 2 released, how do I get the clip itself out with all that extra hardware in there? I don't think I can get a pick tool in between the rounded portion of the inner and the race to pull it out.

    I've got to get this thing cleaned up, but this step has me stumped.

    This is a pic of what I'm referring to - taken from an excellent series of pictures here: Lefty Service - IMG_2940 - Version 2

  49. #499
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    Feb 2005
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    Dental picks are your friend, that, and patience.

    Best I can tell you....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  50. #500
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Dental picks are your friend, that, and patience.

    Best I can tell you....
    Thanks,

    3rd try was the charm using a series of sharpened spokes and a thin screwdriver.

    Then I promptly managed to let my outer race retainer slip so now it will be mix n match until it feels right.

    This is what I get for doing work for a buddy, lol.

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