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  1. #901
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Actually, mineral oil for brakes (Shimano, Tektro, Magura etc) is the same stuff, I wouldn't use fork oil, yes, too heavy.
    So if we don't have the Reverb fluid on hands, we could use mineral brake oil for bleeding the full sprint lockout instead? Thanks

  2. #902
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    All I can say is I did mine now 3 years ago with fork oil and it is better then any others I've tried and worked on plus never leaks or seeps.

  3. #903
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    Lefty Supermax on Lefty fork

    is it possible to put a lefty supermax hub on a standard lefty fork. I've been given a set of Mavic Crossrocs with a SuperMax Hub and I'd love to find a conversion kit to use them.

  4. #904
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    Would it be possible to convert my Lefty 2.0 27.5 120mm travel to a 29er 100mm? I have a Habit that fell off a bike rack on the interstate, and I would like to put it on another bike. I'm not sure if you can/how to convert it to 29.

  5. #905
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    Quote Originally Posted by langtounboy View Post
    is it possible to put a lefty supermax hub on a standard lefty fork. I've been given a set of Mavic Crossrocs with a SuperMax Hub and I'd love to find a conversion kit to use them.
    I don't have the answer, but I did the reverse (Stan's wheels came with standard hub) and only changed the brake mount. But I vaguely remember reading that you can't do the swap that way. On the other hand, you can probably buy a hub and do all the lacing work, then have your wheel builder true it for you.

  6. #906
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I don't have the answer, but I did the reverse (Stan's wheels came with standard hub) and only changed the brake mount. But I vaguely remember reading that you can't do the swap that way. On the other hand, you can probably buy a hub and do all the lacing work, then have your wheel builder true it for you.
    I guessed that the answer would be 'No'
    Many thanks and now the search begins for a new hub

  7. #907
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    Surprised this isn't here already - for their Hybrid Lefty Bath oil, anyone put 20wt Fox Gold in there? Cannondale-experts seem to suggest that....!

  8. #908
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    20 wt is 20 wt.

    I use Lucas, works fine. Can't say as I'd workup a sweat finding one brand or another if I needed it right then and there.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  9. #909
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    Hey guys,
    Recently purchased a custom chinese carbon bike /w a Lefty XLR on eBay (I think it's an XLR anyways). It makes a clunking sound sometimes when going over bumps. I tried resetting the bearings and greasing the telescope, and it helped a little (at least I think it did, might be in my head, hopefully not). Been reading here that it's possibly caused by air in the oil. Does anyone have documentation on how to bleed/refill the oil? Also can anyone confirm that this is an XLR?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-iaabz7v.jpg  

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-gk5vwxk.jpg  

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-myiqwd8.jpg  

    Last edited by dliusfbk; 07-16-2017 at 02:46 PM.

  10. #910
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    Can't see those images, but it's an XLR if it has the Xloc lockout

  11. #911
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    Sorry, fixed it. It has a RockShox lockout. Any advice on the clunking? I should mention that I started noticing it more when I switched the tires out for slicks for city riding, although I think it was still there even when I was using knobs.

  12. #912
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    my fat caad lefty gave up last night... I have put it through a LOT so I am happy it lasted this long! I've rebuild Fox and Maguras in the past, is a lefty totally proprietary (special tools etc) or can I give it a go??? Or should I just bring it to my LBS where I bought it?
    Feel the Bern!!!

  13. #913
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch2 View Post
    my fat caad lefty gave up last night... I have put it through a LOT so I am happy it lasted this long! I've rebuild Fox and Maguras in the past, is a lefty totally proprietary (special tools etc) or can I give it a go??? Or should I just bring it to my LBS where I bought it?
    Craig Smith at Mendon Cyclesmith is your man:

    Cannondale, Professional and Trusted Lefty and Head Shock Service Performed by Craig Smith

    It's just impossible to say enough good things about his Headshok and Lefty service.

  14. #914
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    Quote Originally Posted by sasquatch2 View Post
    I give it a go??? Or should I just bring it to my LBS where I bought it?
    You can't really give it a go, especially if it has a structural problem. Lots of proprietary tooling required that they won't sell to you, and lots of really painful gotchas that will make an expensive job...more expensive.

    I'd take it to a dealer, get them to remove it from the bike, then it's up to you whether it goes back to the mothership or an indy like Craig. IIRC, and Craig will correct me, but if something structural has gone, such as the bearings have cracked or the lower is showing signs of gouging and scratching, an indy's hands are tied, and it needs to go to the mothership. Which sucks balls, because it means you are in for a wait.

  15. #915
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    Hi all.

    I am looking to replace my stock wheels on my 2010 Cannondale Flash carbon 29er (2).

    I was looking at Reynolds & Mavic Lefty 29er wheelsets but open to suggestions.

    I'm an XC rider 160 lbs looking for light, fast, stiff and under $1k for the set.

  16. #916
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    Carbon Lefty 29er XC wheel recommendation?

    Hi all.

    I am looking to replace my stock wheels on my 2010 Cannondale Flash carbon 29er (2).

    I was looking at Reynolds & Mavic Lefty 29er wheelsets but open to suggestions.

    I'm an XC rider 160 lbs looking for light, fast, stiff and under $1k for the set.

  17. #917
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    Nothing really specific to a Lefty except the hub. Other then that, what ever wheels you want.

  18. #918
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    disregard
    Trek/Gary Fisher Superfly hardtail
    2017 Cannondale Scalpel SI 4
    Cervelo R3
    Specialized Crux Elite

  19. #919
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    Hello, just wondering since I can`t find this info online, what are the service intervals on the new 2Spring?

    Also what type of service must be done to Leftys?

    Only air piston? or damper too?

    Thanks in advance.

  20. #920
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    100 hours is the recommended interval.

    After working on these for well, as long as they've been making them, there is no "partial service".

    Shops that do it are simply trying to extract more money and service visits.

    At the appointed time, tear down damper, telescope (and yes air pistons if you really want it separated out that much, but they are ON the damper, so therefore, part of the damper) and service the entire thing, completely.

    It's like doing the timing belt on your car. To not do the water pump and associated pulleys, is to simply have to do the whole job again when they need it soon after.

    Heard of a shop that charged a guy $50 to pull down his boot, smear on grease, and reset the bearings. Then charged him for it again a few months later. Then charged him separately for "air piston service" then later that year, charged for 100 hour service.

    FYI, resets can be done by the end user, with almost no tools (and certainly no specialty ones) in under 3 minutes.

    The *Old Cannondale* would simply tell you to get it serviced once a year if you ride regularly. I'd stick to that.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  21. #921
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    Gotcha! thank you very much Mendon, we are very lucky having you here.

  22. #922
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    While my Scalpel is getting the rear shock rebuilt (****ing Fox is on week 3 now...), I've been riding my old F29er. It has an SL110 fork with the travel reduced to 80mm. I've also had the guts replaced with the Solo Air upgrade. I've struggled to find the air pressure that give it a supple feel but recommended sag since the upgrade. At 150psi it is way too stiff. At 110psi, it seems to have too much sag. Any ideas? Split the difference in pressure? Did they f up my rebuild when they did the Solo Air? My Scalpel's 100mm XLR feels fantastic.


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  23. #923
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quentin View Post
    While my Scalpel is getting the rear shock rebuilt (****ing Fox is on week 3 now...), I've been riding my old F29er. It has an SL110 fork with the travel reduced to 80mm. I've also had the guts replaced with the Solo Air upgrade. I've struggled to find the air pressure that give it a supple feel but recommended sag since the upgrade. At 150psi it is way too stiff. At 110psi, it seems to have too much sag. Any ideas? Split the difference in pressure? Did they f up my rebuild when they did the Solo Air? My Scalpel's 100mm XLR feels fantastic.


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    Same here. I'm 152 pounds but I have to put 145psi to get the 25% sag.
    Small ring in front makes it easier. Small ring in back makes it harder. That blows my mind.

  24. #924
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    Don't bother with sag as a determining factor.

    If the fork isn't bottoming out several times a ride and you like the way it feels, run it.

    Bottoming out is normal, and simply means you've used all your travel, which you bought and paid for, so why not use??!

    Once every ride or two, no sweat, at all.

    Sag is simply a metric, it's not a magical number by which suspension nirvana is achieved.

    Second thought, remove the volume reducer, those things kill plushness faster than a hungry cat at a bird feeder filled with deaf and blind birds....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  25. #925
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    I have a older (early 2000's) lefty headshok and was wondering if anyone is using a 60mm stem on their bike, or will it be too tight?

  26. #926
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    i have a lefty 2.0 xlr alloy on an FSI. (29er / medium). i run a lefty 2.0 supermax hub type of front hub. I would like to buy a cannondale brake adaptor allowing me to directly mount a 180mm front disc without relying on an extra adaptor between the KH111 I have now and my brake caliper. would that be the KH130 I need ?

  27. #927
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    Ultra PBR 120 service - pop top not locking out

    I have a PBR 120 Ultra that I am doing service on - which is well overdue.

    Early on, the pop top stopped working (refused to block out). Do I have to split the shaft to fix this or is replacing the seals on the lower cap of the oil dampener and all seals of the air dampener enough?

    Also I notice there is a plastic (I think) ring that appears broken? Is this supposed to have this break in it? There is no corresponding part in the seal kit. Here is a picture of it...

    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc-broken-seal.jpg

    One more question...how do I replace the seals on the unit in the middle of the shaft without splitting the shaft - or shouldn't I bother.

    thanks

  28. #928
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    Quote Originally Posted by langtounboy View Post
    is it possible to put a lefty supermax hub on a standard lefty fork. I've been given a set of Mavic Crossrocs with a SuperMax Hub and I'd love to find a conversion kit to use them.
    I don't think this has been answered... langtounboy - if you are still subscribed, the answer is no. I was in the same boat (long story) and in the end had to get a non supermax hub. I ordered it from Jake at Project 321, good guy and lots of anodized colour options as well as bearing options.

    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  29. #929
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Would it be possible to convert my Lefty 2.0 27.5 120mm travel to a 29er 100mm? I have a Habit that fell off a bike rack on the interstate, and I would like to put it on another bike. I'm not sure if you can/how to convert it to 29.
    I'm curious about this as well - and to add to the question (or another question):

    Is it possible to convert a Lefty 2.0 Supermax 29'er >130mm down to 100mm?

    There are plenty Supermax's for sale, but I'm not riding Enduro, riding XC so don't need all that travel.

    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  30. #930
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    What are the common causes of air spring wall scratching / scouring - other than contamination with dirt?

  31. #931
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    Cycles. Millions and millions of cycles......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  32. #932
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    In your experience roughly how many hours riding time translates in to new lower leg time?

    And is there any preventative maintenance that can be done to slow the process?

    In the time between the second and third 100hr service my 29er 2.0 lower leg went from 'fine' to 'ruined' - but its the air spring wall that's gone, not the outer wall.

  33. #933
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    All I can say is what used to be.

    So, 10 years or more.

    Now? That company is so profit driven, nothing about anything they do, surprises me.

    My guess, softer alloy leads to faster wear, which translates to more service intervals, more sales of parts, more money for Cannondale.

    Nothing else makes sense, assuming you're using decent grease, cleaning it during service, etc.

    I am seeing tons of faulty 2Spring systems, you know, the system designed to right the ills of the old one? Might b worth swapping to an older Solo Air system, just to rule out 2Spring issues.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  34. #934
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    Hmmm.

    I've been ignoring the 50hr air spring service interval, going for the 100hr full service interval instead.

    That wasn't a problem last year. Everything was fine when it went off to the UK service centre. It didn't have the two spring system, just the old wave washer. This year, still with wave washer, it is toast. Maybe a bit more riding time and maybe slightly harder riding...but toast.

    So the grease will be good, the wrenching will be good, but I'm stretching the air spring interval by X2.

    Anyway, spendy. Think I preferred the old system where if you did end up scratching the thing up at least it was just a separate expendable cylinder.

    Going forward I think I'll get the tooling to do the air spring service / clean and be pretty regular about it.

    Just binned all my shock pumps on the worry one of them is contaminated!

  35. #935
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    Can the lower half of the very old (lefty V1) Kidney Tool be used as the damper castle tool in the 2.0? It looks identical to the pictures of the 2.0 castle tool I've seen.

  36. #936
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    Nope, totally different dimensions...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  37. #937
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    Ah, that's a shame. Thanks.

  38. #938
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    So that 2Spring thing feels really great until two hours in to your first ride on it the valve gets jammed open.

  39. #939
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua_B View Post
    Would it be possible to convert my Lefty 2.0 27.5 120mm travel to a 29er 100mm? I have a Habit that fell off a bike rack on the interstate, and I would like to put it on another bike. I'm not sure if you can/how to convert it to 29.
    Hey Joshua, don't know if you got your answer to this, but I did some asking and got an answer for us both (and anyone else wondering) from mendon.

    He said all non-hybrid Lefty's can be fairly easily converted to what ever travel/tire you like as it is just changing the spacers inside. These are the forks with the boot. With that being said, I'm not exactly sure how easy it is to do that on our own ...

    The hybrids can be changed but are much more costly and a pain in the butt to do.

    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  40. #940
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    So that 2Spring thing feels really great until two hours in to your first ride on it the valve gets jammed open.
    But, but, 2Spring is perfect, it does everything perfectly!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  41. #941
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    But, but, 2Spring is perfect, it does everything perfectly!
    As far as I'm aware, my LBS only had one wave washer failure*, nobody has had any other failures.

    *Kids failed right before a HS race, we pulled mine off my bike and put it on his for the weekend.

  42. #942
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    As far as I'm aware, my LBS only had one wave washer failure*, nobody has had any other failures.
    You calling me a nobody?

    It shit the bed two hours out of the factory - in a way that's pretty dangerous. Installed by Cannondale's own tech center.

  43. #943
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    I was thinking they were referring to the previous system, and how they actually, worked pretty damn well.

    No wave washers in 2Spring.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  44. #944
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I was thinking they were referring to the previous system, and how they actually, worked pretty damn well.

    No wave washers in 2Spring.....
    Yeah it's weird... didn't the original Lefty solo air pre-date Lefty 2.0 right? So what if anything did they change for the 2.0 that then forced them to

    - drop the air spring service interval to 25 hours (or something)
    - rush out the clicky hybrid valve thing
    - recall everything and replace it with 2 spring

    Each one of those steps seems to my eye to cost more $ than you gain, so I can't imagine some cynical $ grab being the motivator.

  45. #945
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Yeah it's weird... didn't the original Lefty solo air pre-date Lefty 2.0 right? So what if anything did they change for the 2.0 that then forced them to

    - drop the air spring service interval to 25 hours (or something)
    - rush out the clicky hybrid valve thing
    - recall everything and replace it with 2 spring

    Each one of those steps seems to my eye to cost more $ than you gain, so I can't imagine some cynical $ grab being the motivator.
    I had the air solo upgrade in my SL110 Carbon Lefty (2008-09 vintage fork) around 2013 timing. I recall they did the change when I moved the fork from by 2006 Scalpel to my 2009 F29er. I rode it that way for a few years and then the 2Spring upgrade/recall was issued. Honestly, I think it rode the best in the original configuration. It seems to not be getting full extension without pumping the air pressure way high. I need to pull it off and send to Mendon this week so I have my winter bike back up and running for night riding next month.

    My LBS did the same upgrade on the DLR2 on my wife’s F4000 650b bike and it seems to work great. 🤷🏼*♂️


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  46. #946
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    You calling me a nobody?

    It shit the bed two hours out of the factory - in a way that's pretty dangerous. Installed by Cannondale's own tech center.
    I just mean the bikes out of my LBS. Anecdotal evidence to be sure, but not the wide failure rate that you see online. Some bikes are ridden harder than others (mine gets beat).

  47. #947
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    So, you need to kind of understand the whole ball of wax, historically.

    When Solo Air fist came out, the piston had a small "Pringles potato chip" shaped wave spring at the bottom of it. It created the set/reset function for SA, and worked pretty well, far better, was lighter, and had less reduction in travel due to the really stiff coil negative springs that came before.

    That piston when through several modest changes over the coming years, got a bit taller, more robust, added extra holes on the sides to help allow air to pass more freely, etc.

    At some point, they noted that the Pringles springs would break over time and use, generally a few seasons.

    So they simply added a second one to the stack and it acted as a back up incase one broke. Often, you never even knew one broke, and that was how it went for many years.

    So why they decided to screw with success is anyones guess, but they decided to redesign it.

    Enter Solo Air X. The dreaded wave spring generation.

    The wave springs, for whatever reason (I was told it was a "bad batch" but they never seemed to stop breaking) they broke much MUCH sooner, and you couldn't add a back up to it as you could previously.

    I want to say at least one wave spring generational re-do was attempted, it was no better.

    So they decided to go with a coil spring system instead. The first version sucked so badly, it was quickly yanked, and a second version that was only slightly better, was brought out.

    Thing was, every single one of these changes was issued forth with much pomp and promise of revolutionary improvements in durability, air management, etc. Each one failed worse than the previous one.

    Sucked for me, cause I bought into their marketing BS, and promised my customers, the same things I was told, only to have increasingly sh*tty performance failures, repeat, ad, nauseum.

    Each change took more than 6 months, during which time, no better options existed, the old, stable, decently designed ones were now only offered as parts or larger "kits" so shops ended up with massive quantities of crap they didn't need, just to solve an air piston problem, enter the environmental nightmare chapter for Cannondale, but that's a whole separate story of WTF proportions.

    The two early "2Spring lite" versions, were even MORE finicky than the previous Solo Air X versions, grease amount and viscosity were hyper critical (unlike the Pringles gen pistons), so I, and any other service center, started to look like incompetent morons who preferred making money, to doing solid work.

    Finally, after screwing over customers and shops for several years, 2Spring arrived the heavens opened, perfection was delivered, sound familiar yet?

    Amongst other BS, we were told it didn't work with anything other than the bootless Hybrid forks. So why does it work so well in all my mid 2000 Max and Speed series, PBR updated forks? I must be magic, or they must be lying to push folks to buy new product instead of keeping their perfectly functional older forks running, you decide.

    They knew they screwed people for years with their pointless redesign bullcrap, so of course they offered it for free (to Hybrid customers only).

    Now it turns out, they fail too. Sure, they *can* work well, but I've seen many failures, from multiple modes.

    Prior to being told I was no longer technically capable or adept enough to continue to service their products, I tried to communicate the issues I was seeing with 2Spring, only to be met with a corporate wall of denial.

    I blamed myself first, I must have inadvertently used .02 milligrams too much grease, or not quite the right amount of oil to thin down the grease. But then I started to get calls from customers who'd had their local dealer do it, and were having issues as well, then I started to see issues coming from forks serviced at the only place on earth who could possibly do it correctly, the factory tech room themselves.

    Still nothing but denial from Cannondale.

    Soon after, I was dumped as a dealer, I guess I shouldn't have spent years seeing what worked and what didn't, and then trying to communicate these issues to a company I'd worked side by side with for close to 25 years? I'll never know.

    Edit: They also constantly promised that the 2Spring kits would be available "soon" as a standalone purchase. To date, they are still not, so basically, unless you get one free, you'll never be able to purchase one (not that you'd want to now) and since all the older parts have been discontinued, well, there's your *money grab* for you. Oh, we're sorry, you can't keep your old fork running because we stopped selling the parts, and we won't sell you new ones (that will work)? How about we give you a sweet deal on a brand new fork that eats itself alive without constant care and feeding (that can only be done by us now, by the way), sounds great, huh?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  48. #948
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    [MASSIVE WALL OF TEXT]
    Never change, MCS. You serve us well.

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Oh, we're sorry, you can't keep your old fork running because we stopped selling the parts, and we won't sell you new ones (that will work)? How about we give you a sweet deal on a brand new fork that eats itself alive without constant care and feeding (that can only be done by us now, by the way), sounds great, huh?
    This is the only thing that makes me nervous about owning a 2005 scalpel with a lefty. I love this bike; hell it weights 24 pounds and impressed the guys at the LBS recently. But why not stock the old parts? Keeping this lefty running without people like MCS would probably be impossible and a way to get everyone into buying new, perhaps inferior, leftys.

  49. #949
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    I should have parts for a good time to come.

    It's Cannondale that isn't supporting them, I'm doing all I can to not go broke continuing to purchase large volumes of parts from OEM suppliers, that's all....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  50. #950
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    So which do you think was better - the last gen wave washer type or the 2spring?

    I reckon the last gen wave washer spring felt more supple.

    That's not cool what Cannondale are doing to you as well. Very disappointing!

  51. #951
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    I actually can't tell the difference.

    I have some that are 2Spring, some that are Solo Air X, and one or two that are still "Pringles".

    They all feel great to me. Worth noting, I run all my forks volume reducer free, so they are already WAY plusher than the stock set up. I almost wonder if they seek more plushness from the piston because they cancel it all out with all the silly volume reduction they insist on.

    As such, Pringles wins out because you can reliably get two to three years out of them, and by then, if you haven't had your fork serviced, well, it's past due, and you deserve whatever guff your fork dishes out your way!

    Thanks, agreed, plainly I'm not "over it" but I'm over it inasmuch as life moves on, and what can't be helped, must be endured, and riding my bike is still freaking awesome...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  52. #952
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    I sourced a 2spring from Europe and put it in my 2013 Lefty Hybrid XLR Carbon. Works great - so far. Never had any problem with the solo air system though, just did this as an experiment.

    Interestingly, there was barely any bath oil in the fork. 2 years ago I had the lower leg replaced due to it becoming very green, and perhaps it was going to happen very soon again if i didn't pull it apart. With 20mL of Fox gold and the 2spring - fork is amazing! Much plusher than before, and ZERO oil has leaked out. Used Slickoleum for the 2spring grease, this may be a bit thin but i'll wait and see. (I'm in Australia btw). Also run the fork with no volume reducers.

    The XLR damper still works great - i will probably never touch it til it fails, then buy a whole new damper (have the damper seals but can't find the info I want to give it a crack)

  53. #953
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    Thanks, great explanation. My PBR 130 is in a box waiting to go back for more TLC.

    Gutted like everyone else to hear what you've experienced

  54. #954
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    I have a PBR 130 that won't get to full travel. It came back a from service at Cannondale a couple months ago, since that time when I do a manual reset I can't get it past 115mm or so into the travel. Anybody have any ideas?

  55. #955
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    Reset harder, some of them are rather over built, bearing preload wise.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  56. #956
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Reset harder, some of them are rather over built, bearing preload wise.
    I tried resetting harder.



    This might be headed your way sometime next week. No clue what happened. I did my normal reset method that I’ve been doing since 2006 on this vintage fork (SL110) and the telescoping portion pulled nearly completely out of the body.


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  57. #957
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    what maximum travel (and axle to crown) can i get from lefty hybrid 1 generation alu pbr?

    i want to swap scalpel 2015 frame to something like trek fuel ex with 130 rear travel

  58. #958
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    Quote Originally Posted by Quentin View Post
    I tried resetting harder.
    Apparently!

    The High$brids are manually reset in reverse, so this doesn't happen no matter how hard you do it.

    Seen that before, basically, yes, you did reset too hard, in potential combination with a race clip that may have slipped, also, once the damper gets to losing a bit of oil, if hyper lubricates the telescope making things super slippery, and thus more prone.

    Easily fixed (by me or someone like me)...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  59. #959
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Apparently!

    The High$brids are manually reset in reverse, so this doesn't happen no matter how hard you do it.

    Seen that before, basically, yes, you did reset too hard, in potential combination with a race clip that may have slipped, also, once the damper gets to losing a bit of oil, if hyper lubricates the telescope making things super slippery, and thus more prone.

    Easily fixed (by me or someone like me)...
    I'll get it in a box to you on Monday. You put my heart at ease. I just spent $500 on wheels "for my wife's bike" yesterday. Another $300-$500 would have had me in the doghouse.


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  60. #960
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    So, you need to kind of understand the whole ball of wax, historically.

    When Solo Air fist came out, the piston had a small "Pringles potato chip" shaped wave spring at the bottom of it. It created the set/reset function for SA, and worked pretty well, far better, was lighter, and had less reduction in travel due to the really stiff coil negative springs that came before.

    That piston when through several modest changes over the coming years, got a bit taller, more robust, added extra holes on the sides to help allow air to pass more freely, etc.

    At some point, they noted that the Pringles springs would break over time and use, generally a few seasons.

    So they simply added a second one to the stack and it acted as a back up incase one broke. Often, you never even knew one broke, and that was how it went for many years.

    So why they decided to screw with success is anyones guess, but they decided to redesign it.

    Enter Solo Air X. The dreaded wave spring generation.

    The wave springs, for whatever reason (I was told it was a "bad batch" but they never seemed to stop breaking) they broke much MUCH sooner, and you couldn't add a back up to it as you could previously.

    I want to say at least one wave spring generational re-do was attempted, it was no better.

    So they decided to go with a coil spring system instead. The first version sucked so badly, it was quickly yanked, and a second version that was only slightly better, was brought out.

    Thing was, every single one of these changes was issued forth with much pomp and promise of revolutionary improvements in durability, air management, etc. Each one failed worse than the previous one.

    Sucked for me, cause I bought into their marketing BS, and promised my customers, the same things I was told, only to have increasingly sh*tty performance failures, repeat, ad, nauseum.

    Each change took more than 6 months, during which time, no better options existed, the old, stable, decently designed ones were now only offered as parts or larger "kits" so shops ended up with massive quantities of crap they didn't need, just to solve an air piston problem, enter the environmental nightmare chapter for Cannondale, but that's a whole separate story of WTF proportions.

    The two early "2Spring lite" versions, were even MORE finicky than the previous Solo Air X versions, grease amount and viscosity were hyper critical (unlike the Pringles gen pistons), so I, and any other service center, started to look like incompetent morons who preferred making money, to doing solid work.

    Finally, after screwing over customers and shops for several years, 2Spring arrived the heavens opened, perfection was delivered, sound familiar yet?

    Amongst other BS, we were told it didn't work with anything other than the bootless Hybrid forks. So why does it work so well in all my mid 2000 Max and Speed series, PBR updated forks? I must be magic, or they must be lying to push folks to buy new product instead of keeping their perfectly functional older forks running, you decide.

    They knew they screwed people for years with their pointless redesign bullcrap, so of course they offered it for free (to Hybrid customers only).

    Now it turns out, they fail too. Sure, they *can* work well, but I've seen many failures, from multiple modes.

    Prior to being told I was no longer technically capable or adept enough to continue to service their products, I tried to communicate the issues I was seeing with 2Spring, only to be met with a corporate wall of denial.

    I blamed myself first, I must have inadvertently used .02 milligrams too much grease, or not quite the right amount of oil to thin down the grease. But then I started to get calls from customers who'd had their local dealer do it, and were having issues as well, then I started to see issues coming from forks serviced at the only place on earth who could possibly do it correctly, the factory tech room themselves.

    Still nothing but denial from Cannondale.

    Soon after, I was dumped as a dealer, I guess I shouldn't have spent years seeing what worked and what didn't, and then trying to communicate these issues to a company I'd worked side by side with for close to 25 years? I'll never know.

    Edit: They also constantly promised that the 2Spring kits would be available "soon" as a standalone purchase. To date, they are still not, so basically, unless you get one free, you'll never be able to purchase one (not that you'd want to now) and since all the older parts have been discontinued, well, there's your *money grab* for you. Oh, we're sorry, you can't keep your old fork running because we stopped selling the parts, and we won't sell you new ones (that will work)? How about we give you a sweet deal on a brand new fork that eats itself alive without constant care and feeding (that can only be done by us now, by the way), sounds great, huh?
    Thanks for the history lesson, good to know.

    My LBS dropped C from their line. They wanted to put me on an Epic, but it wasn't in the budget so I'm staying on the F-Si til death do us part.

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    They all feel great to me. Worth noting, I run all my forks volume reducer free, so they are already WAY plusher than the stock set up. I almost wonder if they seek more plushness from the piston because they cancel it all out with all the silly volume reduction they insist on.
    I tried running without the reducers, but I don't think my pump would go high enough to make up for it! Plus I like the way it ramped, so I put them back in.

  61. #961
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sidewalk View Post
    I tried running without the reducers, but I don't think my pump would go high enough to make up for it! Plus I like the way it ramped, so I put them back in.
    With greater air volume in the primary air chamber (the one that acts as a positive spring), less air pressure is needed to achieve a comparable level of initial firmness/support (less to reach the same sag %). What's important is the change to the spring curve.

    You might be confused with "extra volume" negative air springs. These encourage a strong positive spring to provide support, since the newer design negative spring is counteracting the positive spring for more of the early stroke, resulting in more sag than if you tried to run the same positive air volume with a less substantial negative spring.

    Also, try not to be confused with anyone saying increasing volume (in the positive spring chamber) makes an air spring "more linear". True linear springs are not easy to achieve full travel with. That's all determined by average spring rate. High volume air springs are far easier to achieve full travel with, mainly due to the fact that the mid-stroke's travel is so easily blown through. Dramatically less total force is needed to achieve full travel, if you set sag to the same % as an actual linear spring. There is still a very notable progressive end stroke, but it doesn't make up for "losing" so much travel so easily in the mid-stroke.

    Current gen air springs with the negative air tuning balancing out the positive, is as close to an air spring becoming more linear as it gets. These current gen air springs were seemingly designed with the intent to eliminate the plush feeling, in favor of firming up the mid-stroke, improving sensitive traction control & stability.

    Beware or be sure of what you ask for. If someone truly want a pillowy plush suspension, coil and new air springs are probably not what they want. Off-the-shelf products will have trade-offs to get suspension to feel a certain way. If someone's not a compromising type, it's best to go to a susp expert and take time to review what their wants are. Do you want no bog/pogo when pedaling, yet want plushness, yet don't want to bottom out so easily? This can be done in enough engineering, but if you have restrictions like using a pre-existing chassis, things can be difficult. That and some combinations of feature requests may likely require totally bespoke manufactured parts. If you don't know what you want, feel free to experiment with what you have. Better answers come from knowing more context.

    Knowing you and how fast you like to go, I'd recommend more volume reducers in there, not less, but there is a sweet spot in moderation that will keep you from liking too many volume reducers.

    Charts that show bump forces vs travel help illustrate things. For example, you can see how tuning for full travel use, vs tuning based on sag % compares:

    Name:  SpringCurveCorrected.jpg
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    Name:  SillyIllustrationToProveCoilvsAir.jpg
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    You also see that increased progressivity just makes the curve arc/hook more. Imagine if the first chart was tuned by use of full travel, rather than by sag.

    What you can't see is how progressivity increases a rider's mood to ride more playfully, aggressively, and want to be more airborne in general. This is due to the extra springiness when hitting something relatively sharply. There's a ton more physics behind this (air spring characteristics w/thermodynamics).
    Last edited by Varaxis; 10-21-2017 at 07:56 AM.
    We're all on the same ship, and it's sinking.

  62. #962
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    Liking the way it ramps with the VR's in, is the only reason to keep them. It's why there's multiple condiments on the table at a BBQ! Some want all, some want none, some just want relish.

    As for higher pressure? It's about 15 or 20 psi more when you remove the VR's, not a huge change.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  63. #963
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    Does anyone know if a Reverb remote will work in place of the XLoc?

    I've got the a XLoc Full Sprint controlling my Hybrid 1.0 Lefty and a Monarch XX. I'm considering trading out the Monarch, I'm wondering if I can pull the remote off an old Reverb to maintain the Lefty's lockout functionality.

    EDIT: Nevermind, silly me. I just realized there's no "locked in" position for the Reverb.

  64. #964
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    Just convert it to PBR, save money, save weight, save sanity.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  65. #965
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Just convert it to PBR, save money, save weight, save sanity.
    While you're probably right, I think it's a feature of the 'Team' bike that a future buyer might want to keep.

    Unrelated: I just bought an '05 Cannondale F400 with (I think) a Super Fatty. It holds air and works smoothly, but the lockout doesn't seem to do anything. I twisted it much too far CCW (thought it was a bolt I had to unscrew) before I tried it. The lockout "bolt" was just an interference fit, I don't know if I was actually rotating anything in the fork. The movement of the lockout lever still has a definite stop in the clockwise direction. The previous owner said the lockout worked. Did I break it?
    Last edited by alexdi; 10-29-2017 at 02:23 AM.

  66. #966
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    Sounds like you broke it, yes.

    New lockout shims and a rebuild....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  67. #967
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Sounds like you broke it, yes.

    New lockout shims and a rebuild....
    Sigh. That's the last time I do anything on a Cannondale without checking a manual. Fortunately the lockout is superfluous. If there's nothing in there floating around to ruin everything else, it's not worth touching.

  68. #968
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    Likely there is, that's what happens when they get forced, they shatter, and subsequently, the shrapnel shreds the internals beyond repair, with riding.

    Get it serviced, assuming whomever you work with, can actually get the shims.

    No manuals for these, they didn't want folks working on them (still don't,now more than ever) because they learned the same as I did a long time ago. Way too often, consumers will confuse the tool, or parts capabilities, with their own mechanical abilities...
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  69. #969
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    Maybe have to grease the threads on the lower big nut and too cap on my recently serviced hybrid. The 20w is leaking when the bike is upside down (have to do this to put bike in car etc)

    Oops

  70. #970
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    Quote Originally Posted by jbsmith View Post
    Just wanted to post here again how great Mendon Cyclesmith's work is. Fast, reasonable pricing (might be the best), open communication. Craig had my old ELO serviced and back to me in a week...permanently disabling the lockout saving me some weight (no battery) and put some heavier weight oil in it for me while servicing the boot, o-rings, filter!!

    Absolutely no complaints!!!!
    I just purchased a new Fat CAAD 1, my first Lefty fork equipped bike and was reading through the comments in this thread looking for advice on preventative maintenance.

    The consensus appears to be that one shouldn't perform any maintenance and have the fork 100 hr full service performed once per year by a qualified shop.

    I've always performed my own tuning and fork maintenance going back to dirt bikes and then transitioning to MTB forks beginning in the early 80's to present; elastomer to spring to air(Manitou/Rock Shox/Marzzochi/Fox).

    What can I do to the Olaf besides tuning, manual reset and keeping the lowers clean?

    The damper service/inspection looks doable (per the Cannondale Solo Air Assembly Upgrade installation instructions) if the KH198 is in your toolbox.

    What are the factory fluid quantities and weight? What are the refill quantities when performing damper service? Or are the fluids only changed when performing the 100 hour service?

    My intent is to use the Fat CAAD as I have used my Fatback; primarily for snow/ice (Nov - April) and some beach riding in my homestate of Alaska and using my 29r as my primary rig for summer.

    Any other advice?

    Thank you in advance

  71. #971
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post
    The consensus appears to be that one shouldn't perform any maintenance and have the fork 100 hr full service performed once per year by a qualified shop.

    I've always performed my own tuning and fork maintenance.

    What can I do to the Olaf besides tuning, manual reset and keeping the lowers clean?

    The damper service/inspection looks doable (per the Cannondale Solo Air Assembly Upgrade installation instructions) if the KH198 is in your toolbox.
    The Hybrids are beyond upkeep intensive.

    100 hour service is not something you'd DIY, *experience* or no.

    All you can do if you want, is oil bath changes, and I'm not sure if they even recommend DIY on that.

    Way more frequent than 100 hours too. Once that 20 ml of bath oil goes away, your fork eats itself alive, and costs you $400+.

    If what you read, lead you to believe you could do pretty much anything at all in there, with one tool, well, that's the internet for you, cause that's just not true.

    Hate being a naysayer to DIY'ers, but I've been mopping up their efforts for over a decade, and these High$brids are 10 times more finicky, plus the penalty for failure is much higher, which of course, Cannondale simply loves since they stopped allowing any dealer or skilled shop from working on them so all that cash flows downhill, straight into their pockets.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  72. #972
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Hate being a naysayer to DIY'ers, but I've been mopping up their efforts for over a decade, and these High$brids are 10 times more finicky, plus the penalty for failure is much higher, which of course, Cannondale simply loves since they stopped allowing any dealer or skilled shop from working on them so all that cash flows downhill, straight into their pockets.
    isat that just in US? i know some service places here in sweden/denmark/europe that isn't cannonades own stores.

  73. #973
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post
    The consensus appears to be that one shouldn't perform any maintenance and have the fork 100 hr full service performed once per year by a qualified shop.

    To echo the above, 100hr is too long.

    50hrs - pull the damper out, clean and refresh the air spring, clean the lower leg air chamber, clean and refresh the oil bath.

    Yah I know the service interval for the oil bath is 100hrs..but if you've got the thing apart why not do it.

    Push it too long and you'll wreck the lower leg, either the outer or the inner. Which is an expensive mistake


    Wouldn't bother trying anything else - you aren't going to get the parts or the tools to do it. Post the damper back to Cannondale if it starts getting air in it, get the telescope done every 200hrs or so as per the manual.

  74. #974
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    My average mtb ride is about 3 hours, so I should send these forks back after every 15 rides or so? That is ridiculous. I have 2 Leftys, they have both been trouble (the last one Mendon fixed up for me). No wonder you can barely give away a Scalpel on Ebay or the forums, no one wants them because of the maintenance nightmare
    Bike fleet: Scalpel/Habit SE/Synapse Hi Mod/SWorks Tarmac/TJ CX/Trek Speed Concept 9 series/Ridley Noah

  75. #975
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    Quote Originally Posted by ridenfish39 View Post
    My average mtb ride is about 3 hours, so I should send these forks back after every 15 rides or so? That is ridiculous.

    Yep. It's not too different to a Fox or RS in fairness, except if you skip a service with those you can get away without being hit with a $400 dollar bill for a new lower leg.

    I ran two different 2.0's for 100hr + and the both ate the internal inner leg surface causing the air spring to play up.

  76. #976
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    I have a 2013 PBR that I work on myself. I'm super anal about how my suspension performs. Probably from my motocross background. I purchased a jug of Lucas 20wt shock oil per Mendoncycle. Like most I have to reset the bearings on my fork every couple of rides. I got sick and tired of having to let the air out...pound on the fork....and then air it back up. Now I simply remove the top collar assembly, cycle the fork to reset the bearings.

    Once a week while doing this I flush the bearings with new oil and my fork has never worked better.

    This might be overkill...but it's easy to do, and a jug of oil goes a long way

  77. #977
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    I miss the days of Marzochhi Bombers, they were super easy to work on and literally bomb proof. They were heavy but I don't care about the weight on my train bike
    Bike fleet: Scalpel/Habit SE/Synapse Hi Mod/SWorks Tarmac/TJ CX/Trek Speed Concept 9 series/Ridley Noah

  78. #978
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    Quote Originally Posted by Baltazar View Post
    isat that just in US? i know some service places here in sweden/denmark/europe that isn't cannonades own stores.
    I would imagine they are a designated Cannondale service center for the region. Someone like 88+ comes to mind.

    They are not making parts available to Cannondale dealers anymore, and they had been since the company began, so the change is new, and significant.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  79. #979
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    Thank you for your feedback.

    Mendon Cyclesmith I respect your opinion and if I lived anywhere near NY I would have you perform the service (I've explored the shipping expense for your 100hr service, $110 each way) but removing the damper looks like an operation that I would be comfortable with, especially so considering Howards comment (in addition to what I've researched).

    Until I have an opportunity to remove the damper and become familiar with the fork I have some additional questions.

    The step-by-step procedure, as I understand it is:
    DISSASSEMBLY:
    1) remove the air and then the Schrader valve (after covering the brake rotor)
    2)depress fork to reset the needle bearings
    3) unthread the top cap and pull up shaft to fit the KH198 tool to unthread and remove the damper cartridge (carefully to avoid damaging the O-rings)
    REASSEMBLY:
    4) clean lower leg with alcohol rinse (remove from headset or leave leg attached?)
    4) clean air piston and cartridge body threads (to remove Loctite) with alcohol
    5) clean all O-Rings with alcohol and coat with NLGI-2 grease (O-Rings not removed for this)
    6) grease the topout bumpers and the entire air piston assembly
    7) apply 2-5cc of Phil Wood Tenacious Oil to topout bumpers and air piston assembly
    8) apply Loctite to cartridge threads
    9) carefully insert the damping cartridge into the leg taking care not to use a rocking or wriggling motion to avoid O-ring damage
    10) hand thread the cartridge into the lower leg
    11) install the KH198 tool to torque the damping cartridge (20N-m)
    12) reinstall Schrader valve (do not over-tighten) and pressurize to 50psi
    13) remove KH198 and tighten the top cap (20N-m)
    14) pressurize fork to rider setting

    I assume that the lower leg/fork is not removed from the frame for this procedure

    What do you mean by "clean and refresh the air spring"?

    When is the oil bath drained and refilled? Is the damper shaft inverted to drain it and is it filled through the upper shaft right after the damper cartridge is retorqued into the leg (after step 11)?

    How is the "oil bath cleaned"?

    Is a special Cannondale fluid required or can 5wt fork oil used? Is this the 20ml that Mendon Cycle referred to?

    Are you recommending to replace all of the O-rings (including the green air piston valve seal)?

    My motivation is to minimize the chance of an "expensive mistake".

    Cheers

  80. #980
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    Sadly, much as I hate to admit it, (after a 20+ year love fest), you already made the expensive mistake by buying one of these corporate profit center creators in the first place....

    $110 each way? I shudder to think where you live, or what service you use, I sent a fork back to New Zealand a few weeks back for under $60.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  81. #981
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post

    What do you mean by "clean and refresh the air spring"?
    Clean all grease / oil from the piston head. Remove the O-ring. Replace the O ring with fresh. Do the same for the negative chamber seal head. Follow your instructions for oil and grease.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post

    When is the oil bath drained and refilled? Is the damper shaft inverted to drain it and is it filled through the upper shaft right after the damper cartridge is retorqued into the leg (after step 11)?

    Google the Lefty 2.0 service video, IIRC it's as you describe, after the damper is re-torqued.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post

    How is the "oil bath cleaned"?

    Is a special Cannondale fluid required or can 5wt fork oil used? Is this the 20ml that Mendon Cycle referred to?
    Degreaser goes in, shake it around, pour the resulting mess out. Leave it to drain out a while. Then Add 20wt fork oil - don't use anything thinner.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post

    Are you recommending to replace all of the O-rings (including the green air piston valve seal)?

    No - just the piston and the negative chamber seal. When you pull the damper out both the negative chamber seal and the air piston go past threads, it's possible they can be damaged and it's good practice to replace them.

    I'd leave a full air spring refresh to the service centre but it looks straightforward if you can get the o-rings.

    Quote Originally Posted by Ridewithriley View Post

    My motivation is to minimize the chance of an "expensive mistake".
    If it's in warranty, ride it till the first service interval then send it off.

    Buy a new fresh shock pump. Only use it with your 2.0 and keep it very, very clean. Make sure the shrader valve on the lower is clean. If your inner leg wrecks itself, it's good to be able to tell them that there's was no chance of this happening because you accidentally pushed dirt in to the air chamber.

  82. #982
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    Thank you for the clarifications. I really appreciate the tip on the air pump.

    One more question...is the 20 wt oil bath quantity 20ml?

  83. #983
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    Well, this says 10ml

    KIT Service Lefty Hybrid Clean/Lube

    But IIRC it should be 20ml - everyone on this page seems to say 20ml.

  84. #984
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    The Lefty Ti on my Rush (not original, I think) was flat when I went to ride it yesterday. It had been hanging in the garage for a month or two (don't ask), and was inflated a couple months before that.

    How long should it hold air, esp. when not ridden/hard?

    I don't have a problem with inflating it every month or two, but if it's a sign of something serious, I might as well send it for service when the snow flies.

  85. #985
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    Freshly serviced when brand new in 2001 or so (so definitely not original to the Rush), you could expect a year to several years, like any other new air suspension.

    With time, things wear.

    But seals wear way faster, so going forward, expect less that the long end of that range.

    A year+ after service on older forks seems to never be too much of a problem, unless damage or a crap ton of miles have caused it to wear and not hold air as well as it used to.

    If you don't know when it was last done, there's your answer, should you want to deal with getting it done, otherwise, yeah, every few months add some air is like, tires, and no one complains about filling those now and again.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  86. #986
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    I would imagine they are a designated Cannondale service center for the region. Someone like 88+ comes to mind.

    They are not making parts available to Cannondale dealers anymore, and they had been since the company began, so the change is new, and significant.
    the one in denmark i know is a service center, but the other one, i pretty sure isn't. but he can still service them. Don't know if its different overhear, if cannonade europe handle it different. Correct me if i´m wrong, in US you couldn't buy 2spring as a part, and pay for it, if you wanted to use it in a pre 2013 lefty? here it wasn't a problem.

    it´s a shame that cannonade isn't understand how high value it is to have a service guy as you with your experience

  87. #987
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    Thanks, yep I wish they had carried on their traditional ways too....

    I have no idea about Europe, it may be different, but I doubt it. Best you can do is ask, and by all means, report back as other users may be curious too!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  88. #988
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Thanks, yep I wish they had carried on their traditional ways too....

    I have no idea about Europe, it may be different, but I doubt it. Best you can do is ask, and by all means, report back as other users may be curious too!
    i know there is a guy in south part of sweden that i can send the lefty to and it takes 2-3 days incl. shipping there and back. if he was service center i doubt he would be aloud to put adriani parts in the forks?

  89. #989
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    "adriani"?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  90. #990
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    "adriani"?
    sorry for the miss in the spelling Andreani was the right name. Benvenuti nel sito ufficiale di Andreani Group International

  91. #991
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    Yeah, the misspelling didn't throw me, never heard of them, spelling be damned!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  92. #992
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith View Post
    Yeah, the misspelling didn't throw me, never heard of them, spelling be damned!
    Think they are big on MX. know one that had it installed in his lefty and he said that the smal bump sensitivity was a big bump up form original.

  93. #993
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    The official Lefty thread, tech, mechanical, etc

    SuperMax has plenty of clearance for a Pounder
    Enjoy the ride...

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    Hello. Can anyone explain me how to disassemble the telescope for lefty hybrid? I want to service needle bearings and rails. I remove damper cartridge and unscrewed lower bushing, but I can not separate the telescope from the fork's leg. Any specific tools are needed for it? Where can I buy it?

  95. #995
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    Yeah good luck with that.

  96. #996
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    Quote Originally Posted by xxrock View Post
    Hello. Can anyone explain me how to disassemble the telescope for lefty hybrid? I want to service needle bearings and rails. I remove damper cartridge and unscrewed lower bushing, but I can not separate the telescope from the fork's leg. Any specific tools are needed for it? Where can I buy it?
    As far as I know the specific information you seek is not available to the general public..

    There are certain tools you can buy but they don't provide any tool or information for telescope disassembly..

    What tools do I need to work on Lefty 2.0 or SuperMax?

    Here's a nice strip down of the fork but still no telescope disassembly.. they don't even mention it..

    https://nsmb.com/articles/cannondale...rmax-teardown/

    If I remember correctly, with the older Lefty's there's a clip that needs to be removed for telescope disassembly.. and there is a special tool for that..

    I bought a used Supermax recently.. it has some wear on the lower leg... I didn't pay a whole lot of money for it so I might try taking it apart and see what kind of a mess I can get myself into..

    It would be nice to get some info on the procedure.. I absolutely love the Supermax but it requires special attention to keep it running smooth & at its best.. and if you don't look after it, it will self destruct in no time..!
    The names have been changed to protect the innocent...

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