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  1. #1
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    New Scalpel 29er - Got Some Question

    Last week I bought a new Scalpel 29er 1 and can't quite figure out a few very rudimentary things... but I'll attempt to defend myself by saying this is my first ever Cannondale (lame excuse, I know).

    1. Where do I mount a water bottle cage? There are the two cable guides on the downtube that look like the cage bolts would go there, but well, there are cable guides in the way... I got an XL frame.

    2. How do I adjust the angle of the seat. It appears to be a single bolt cam holder, but I can't get the nut at the top to loosen... it seems like if I loosen that nut I'll be able to tilt the nose of the seat down, but I don't want to force anything.

    3. How do I remove the stem? I want to remove two of the spacers but can't figure out how to remove it!

    I realize these are total noob questions but this bike is so different from all my previous bikes... it's like feels like a pedal powered spaceship. I would go back to the shop I bought it from and have them help me out, but I don't want to drive 70 miles.

    Any help you all can provide would be much appreciated!!
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  2. #2
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    1 - It'll mount using those cable guides. Do the cage on top of the cable guides with the bolts going through (cables run under the cage). It's tight for a larger bottle but a smaller one fits (I'm on XL too)

    2 - Loosen the bottom hex bolt on the back (4mm) then turn the cam thing down until it's a bit farther than you want, then tighten the bolt (it'll tip away from the knob thing when you tighten slightly)

    3 - haven't tried that yet.

  3. #3
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    Removing the spacers is more difficult than on a standard MTB stem. Your bike is pretty expensive and 70 miles isn't really that far. I'd recommend making an appointment with the shop for them to do it and ask them if you can see how it's done at the same time. That will make it much easier if you have to do it yourself later. Also they can check that you have a V2 OPI steerer in your bike when they take it apart. If not, get them to swap it as the V2 fixes the creaking issue and is much stiffer.

    Having said that if you do want to do it yourself, you'll need a shimano BB tool and the cannondale "Ernie" tool. People will tell you that you can bash the stem / steerer out with a wooden dowel or similar and that's true BUT the thread pitch on the stem / steerer is very fine and easily damaged (don't ask me how I know this!) so I would get the proper tool.

    OPI Stem Removal:

    1) Undo the 2 Lefty clamp bolts above and below the head tube.
    2) Get a Shimano BB tool. Use it to undo the ring at the bottom under the head tube.
    3) As you undo the ring either the steerer tube will lower and eventually, come out of the bottom of the head tube, or the stem will raise and come out of the top.
    4) If the stem comes out of the top, take it out and pull the steerer out of the bottom.
    5) If the steerer comes out of the bottom, take it out and pull the stem out of the top.
    6) If you have trouble getting either one of those out, you'll have to bash it out with your Ernie.
    7) Take the 2 spacers off your stem. Now look at the steerer. It will either be a V1 (no spacers) or a V2 steerer (red ring + a couple of black ones). On the V2 you should have the same number of black spacers on the steerer as on your stem (you should have to remove 2) leave the red spacer on the steerer too.
    8) Now reassemble the stem / steerer, using plenty of grease. Tighten up with BB spanner
    9) Tighten Lefty clamp bolts.

  4. #4
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    Is there any way to tell externally if it's the V1 or V2? I'm creaking a bit on mine and not sure why yet.

  5. #5
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    Thanks for the feedback guys. I got the seat angle adjusted and it's SO much better now. In regards to the water bottle, are the bolts that come with the cages long enough to go through the cable guides into the frame or do I need to get special longer ones?

    As for the stem adjustment, after reading your summary I definitely think I'm going to take it back to the shop. :-) I'd definitely jack something up. The downside though is that I got out for my first ride on it today and while it's badass, the stem was creaking a little bit. I guess I'll have them check that out when I have them remove the spacers.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  6. #6
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    Regarding first item in the OP:

    First thing I did when I brought the bike home was remove the cable from the top of the Downtube and attached with zip tie to the 2 cables at the bottom of that tube.
    that takes a few minutes and works great. In my mind it is a design mistake that doesn't belong in this beautiful bike setup.

    If you want to make it a bit tidier, you can order these triple cable guides
    Ragley Triple Cable Guide Kit | Buy Online | ChainReactionCycles.com
    Flash29C2
    Scalpel 29C1
    Niner One9 SingleSpeed RDO fork
    Supersix Evo 1 Hi Mod D/A

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by thechickencow View Post
    Is there any way to tell externally if it's the V1 or V2? I'm creaking a bit on mine and not sure why yet.
    Yes, it should be stamped "V2" on the bottom of the steerer. Should be visible if you turn the bike upside down. If it's a V1 you can either swap it for a V2 or strip it down and grease it regularly to stop the creaking.

  8. #8
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    Your best source for help on technical issues is always your Cannondale dealer (even if they are 70 miles away).

    Concerning your water bottle mounting question, you might want to consider a side-loading cage such as the Cannondale Alloy Side Load Cage which is a perfect solution for tight spaces such as the tight triangle of your Scalpel:

    http://www.cannondale.com/cannondale...ide-cage-black

  9. #9
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    One more question. :-)

    How do I remove the rear wheel? This is my first bike with a thru axle on the rear wheel and I can't find anything in the owners manual that addresses this.

    Thanks.
    Life is like riding a bicycle. To keep your balance you must keep moving. ~ Albert Einstein

  10. #10
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    Insert a 5mm allen key into the non-drive side thru axle where the QR usually is and turn it anti clockwise until it pulls out. Opposite to re-fit the wheel.

  11. #11
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    One additional C'dale query

    Thanks for sharing your noob questions. A lecturer I had once intoned: "Ask a [noob] question now and appear dumb for a moment; don't ask, and be dumb forever".
    And you've helped me out - I've just brought the same bike home.

    I have one more query though - what is this rather odd spare part that comes with the bike?

    New Scalpel 29er - Got Some Question-1078733_660570450637936_1471696535_o.jpg New Scalpel 29er - Got Some Question-1146967_660570470637934_528355404_o.jpg


    (PS - thanks StumpyElite2010 for the suggestion to move the cable from the top of the downtube to under it. I agree - seemed totally unnecessary and looks much better now!)

  12. #12
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    With that little doohicky you can attach your shifter or whatever to the other clamp, lets you get your brake and shifter a bit closer together for ergo reasons. I think it may also work wtith the lockouts too.

  13. #13
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    New Scalpel 29er - Got Some Question

    It's a SRAM/Avid MatchMaker. It allows you to bolt your shifter to the brake clamp. Also, with the Lefty lockout, you can use the lockout clamp for your brake lever and then use the MatchMaker for the shifter. That way you have three things attached to ONE clamp.

  14. #14
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    Thanks guys.

    The bike came with matchmakers installed. This one is really rather different from the ones already on the bike.

    A little bit of googling reveals this to be an XX MatchMaker. (The bike is running X0 shifters and brakes.) I guess they are trying to encourage me to upgrade

    And thanks for the tip on using the lockout clamp for mounting everything on the left.

  15. #15
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    New Scalpel 29er - Got Some Question

    Have any of you Gus had any free hub issues? I cleaned mine out again tonight and it seems to be something I'm going to have to deal with regularly.

  16. #16
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    Reynolds rims? I've just been informed that the shop wants to send my wheel back for factory replacement, due to a known issue with the freehub. I'm in Korea though, and a language barrier has prevented me getting any precise details

    ...aha. This guy is talking about the issue here (review from Alex a Racer)
    Reynolds 29er Carbon Wheelset Reviews - Mtbr.com

  17. #17
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    New Scalpel 29er - Got Some Question

    Yeah, that's on the Reynolds.

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