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  1. #1
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    My Rize seatstay and main pivot bearings

    Well I finally pulled apart my rize rear suspension and my main bearings are toast and my seatstay bearings at the lower shock link are toast. I kinda knew they were gonna need replacing but it was easy as pie stripping it down bare. The bearings Cannondale uses are not that good for the application. They are caged sealed bearings made for more rotation. Suspension bearings need more balls and better seals for less rotation. Needless to say I found the perfect replacement bearings at Enduro fork seals. They are the Max bearings for suspension pivots. They are cageless and carry alot more balls and have way better seals and higher grade balls and races. I do believe they will solve the premature bearing life on our Rize's. The seatstays bearings are 6800 2RS MAX you need 6 for the whole seatstay system (I'm replacing them all since they are better and I have it all apart but only 2 bearings were bad). The main pivot bearings are 6902 2RS MAX. Hope this helps all of us Rize owners. I LOVE my Rize and try to upgrade everything that needs replacing with something tougher and more durable. By the way you must use Loctite 638 on all the 6800 2RS MAX bearings.

    ENDURO MAX BEARING SPECIFICATIONS

    ENDURO MAX BEARINGS: ULTIMATE SUSPENSION PIVOT BEARINGS!
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Last edited by danoalb; 11-29-2011 at 02:51 PM. Reason: More info (links)
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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  2. #2
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    which set did you buy? i didnt see the rize on the web site

  3. #3
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    I said which ones in my post

    Open the second link for the bearings and scroll down until you get to 6800 2RS MAX.... you need 6 of them then keep scrolling to 6902 2RS MAX you need 2 of these (main pivot) done deal.
    Last edited by danoalb; 11-23-2011 at 09:29 AM.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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  4. #4
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    Nice. Good lookin' out!

    Thank you.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  5. #5
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    I fitted these exact bearings to my old Rize back in 2010. I can confirm they last a lot longer then the bearings Cdale used. In fact once i fitted them i never had to change them again.

    I in fact had more issues with the Fox shock mounts then any of the bearings though, thats where any play in my rig came from. So I upgraded my shock mounts to heavy duty ones with polymer eyelet bushings. This made a huge difference in how tight the bike felt, and it never developed play or any slack again.

    Mount Kits, 12.7mm - for Fox, 5th ... - TF Tuned Shox

    At the same time also replaced the shock bolts with items used on the Orange Pro 5. They were not only a better fit, but also stiffer, and once again I never had any slackness or play issues once i switched to them.

    Scroll down to "Shock Mount Bolts" ;

    Orange Mountain Bikes - Components and Spares

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by danoalb View Post
    Open the second link for the bearings and scroll down until you get to 6802 2RS MAX.... you need 6 of them then keep scrolling to 6902 2RS MAX you need 2 of these (main pivot) done deal.
    As I remember when I did this bearing swap out, the main pivots are press fit bearings IIRC. So, you'll need a bearing press or have an LBS do it.

    Getting my smaller 6802 bearings out was kind of a pain even with heating them per the instructions.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  7. #7
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    kewl

    I'm using these for my shock bushings.......... SHOCK CHART

    By the way what size shock bolts did you use for your Rize. 29mm 31mm or 33mm.... I'm assuming the diameter is the same
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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  8. #8
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Correction

    Quote Originally Posted by ziscwg View Post
    As I remember when I did this bearing swap out, the main pivots are press fit bearings IIRC. So, you'll need a bearing press or have an LBS do it.

    Getting my smaller 6802 bearings out was kind of a pain even with heating them per the instructions.
    The smaller bearings are 6800 2RS MAX NOT 6802 2RS MAX as I stated earlier My earlier posts have been corrected. I hope nobody bought the wrong smaller bearings due to my error
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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    damn

    Quote Originally Posted by danoalb View Post
    The smaller bearings are 6800 2RS MAX NOT 6802 2RS MAX as I stated earlier My earlier posts have been corrected. I hope nobody bought the wrong smaller bearings due to my error
    I ordered the wrong ones...damn...6 of em....So they are useless?

  10. #10
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    Call Enduro asap

    If they didn't ship I'm sure Chris will swap them out. If you got them I'm sure he will make things right. He's a good guy and frequents these boards usually in the suspension and shocks topics. His handle is Chris2fur. sorry
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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    Thanks for the info! Just ordered 6 of the small ones.
    I wonder if we could find a replacement for the shocklink pivot bolts, that attach seatstays to shock link. Those two little bolts are the weakest part of the RZ suspension and only come as part of the KP072 kit, that you can purchase online for $40, or through cannondale dealer special order(part# 121832)
    "Flow" is characteristic of the rider, not of the trail.

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    I just ordered up a set of 6 6800 and 2 6902's along with a couple needle bearing shock mount kits. I am sadly getting a lot of creaking and it is pretty obviously coming from the torque of the drive side creating play in the seat stay bearings.

    I also ordered the shock eyelet tools, one for the DU and one for the needle bearings. I'll be picking up some LockTite 638 shortly I suspect and redoing the bearings on the seat stays and shock link.

  13. #13
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    Your gonna love them

    DR My Rize creaked so bad before I fixed it and my back wheel moved from side to side it wasn't funny I thought my rear hub bearings were shot I hated on my Rize at that point as it felt like a piece of junk I didn't even want to ride it anymore......they weren't After I did the fix the whole bike is tight as a drum and dead silent I also did the RWC needle bearing kit and all I can say is WOW. I went one better and installed the PUSHED Monarch RT/AM. and wrote a post about It called SUPER RIZE and it is believe me. My rear end is in a class by itself. It's so plush and pedals so well even without the platform. I rarely used my platform on the fox anyway. The RT/AM is off the charts on the way it keeps your tire glued to the ground. You will find that you will have to use more air pressure than you usually do and a slower rebound with the needle bearing kits as the pivots and shock eyes rotate so free........totally drag free. I told PUSH to not install the shock bearings they provide as I was going to use the needle bearing kit. I bought the installation tool and I HIGHLY recommend it as it installs the bearings PERFECT in literally seconds with no chance of damaging them. DR you will be blown away with the needle bearing kits believe me but since you went that far I would not even hesitate to get the PUSH Monarch as that is the last step for perfection..........GAME, MATCH AND SET OVER I really want to hear what you think about your new set up when it's done. GET THE MONARCH RT/AM
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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  14. #14
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    Rize Carbon 2 Upgrade

    I know there are a lot of upgrades that can be done, but what would everyone suggest I upgrade from my stock 2009 Rize Carbon 2? After a couple of years with the bike it is time to make some improvements. I like the idea of updating the rear shock, but don't know if that is my top priority.

    Any suggestions for tires (Dry loose to hardpack riding)?

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    This is good info because my Rize is beginning to feel a little loose and i suspect it is the bearings

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    Quote Originally Posted by moabcrazy View Post
    I know there are a lot of upgrades that can be done, but what would everyone suggest I upgrade from my stock 2009 Rize Carbon 2? After a couple of years with the bike it is time to make some improvements. I like the idea of updating the rear shock, but don't know if that is my top priority.

    Any suggestions for tires (Dry loose to hardpack riding)?
    I am thinking of upgrading my rear shock as soon as i fix my bearings. I think this will make the most difference in my ride. Also upgrading the wheelset paid off for me.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by moabcrazy View Post
    I know there are a lot of upgrades that can be done, but what would everyone suggest I upgrade from my stock 2009 Rize Carbon 2? After a couple of years with the bike it is time to make some improvements. I like the idea of updating the rear shock, but don't know if that is my top priority.

    Any suggestions for tires (Dry loose to hardpack riding)?
    Wheelset/tires make a pretty dramatic improvement. I went to Mavic SLR's and tubeless Rocket Rons (from the OE Mavic 317's and tubed Kenda ExCavators) and lost about 2 lbs of rotational weight and a bunch of rolling reistance. When riding, the bike feels 5+ lbs lighter, and accelerates and changes direction with very little effort.

    For your conditions, you may wanna try the schwalbe Racing Ralph . . .

    My next mod is to get the Fox RP2 PUSH'ed. I weigh 220 and want a tad more platform and big hit control without losing any plushness. I'll let you know how it goes in a few weks . . .
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

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    Thanks Stumpjumpy. I will look at those tires/wheelset.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumpy View Post
    Wheelset/tires make a pretty dramatic improvement. I went to Mavic SLR's and tubeless Rocket Rons (from the OE Mavic 317's and tubed Kenda ExCavators) and lost about 2 lbs of rotational weight and a bunch of rolling reistance. When riding, the bike feels 5+ lbs lighter, and accelerates and changes direction with very little effort.

    For your conditions, you may wanna try the schwalbe Racing Ralph . . .

    My next mod is to get the Fox RP2 PUSH'ed. I weigh 220 and want a tad more platform and big hit control without losing any plushness. I'll let you know how it goes in a few weks . . .
    I put a set of Crossmax Slr's on my Rize that I had on my hard tail, and I have had to replace 5 spokes on my rear wheel. I tend to ride my Rize a little harder then my hard tail and that is probably the cause so I switched back to the rims that came with the Rize.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanley02 View Post
    I put a set of Crossmax Slr's on my Rize that I had on my hard tail, and I have had to replace 5 spokes on my rear wheel. I tend to ride my Rize a little harder then my hard tail and that is probably the cause so I switched back to the rims that came with the Rize.
    Wow. No issues like that for me, so far (knock on wood). I'm a Clyde, but pretty light on the equipment, I guess.

    What exactly happened to the spokes? No rim damage? I'd think your HT would have been harder on the wheels than your Rize.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

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    No rim damaged,just needed to be trued, 1 spoke actual snapped in half and the other ones just bent. It's happened on 3 different occasions, 1 one time (this one snapped) , 2 another (bent), and 2 another time (bent). My riding style changes based on what bike I ride, and when on the FS Rize I tend to be a little more aggressive but it's not like I'm hitting big drops. That's the only thing I can think that would be causing this since the rims are so light and not heavy duty. I'm only 155lbs so I know it should be a weight issue.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by stanley02 View Post
    I'm only 155lbs so I know it should be a weight issue.
    Wow, I have 65 lbs on you. You must ride like a wild beast, and me like a timid wuss! I will work on that.

    Seriously, perhaps your SLR's were not assembled properly (spoke tension off) or the spokes were defective?

    They are light XC race wheels, but they should not come apart like that with a 155 lb rider. Unlike many wheels in their category, they have no weight limit and are known to hold up to abuse fairly well. There is a pic of a chap racing/finishing on a bare SLR rim on the net somewhere. LOL. Very good strength/weight compromise.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

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    Quote Originally Posted by DRSpalding View Post
    I also ordered the shock eyelet tools, one for the DU and one for the needle bearings.
    Do you already have the main bearing press to use for the tools? I am asking because the one they are selling is over $200

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hill_Lover View Post
    Do you already have the main bearing press to use for the tools? I am asking because the one they are selling is over $200
    Nope. I decided that I wouldn't do enough press-fit bearings to warrant the tool in my lifetime! I may borrow the tool but I'll probably just take it to my LBS to do the pivot bearings after I replace the seat stay and shock link bearings. I want to see how much the noise and movement are reduced before doing so.

    It's time for a Lefty service as well, so I can get all that done at the same time.

  25. #25
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    You don't need a press

    The main bearings are way easy. Just put your swingarm in a vise and eye the bearing straight and turn the crank on the vise Mine went in perfectly straight with the vise. When it was flush I put the socket on the bearing to finish it off. It was all the way in the bore so it could not misalign. They will squeeze in really easy with no resistance if it's right. I was pleasantly surprised on how well well it worked. If your use the socket from the beginning it could go in crooked . Just the vise at first until bottomed then use the socket.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

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    The shock DU bushings have been replaced with the needle bearing system now. I simply purchased a 5/16" x 4.5" hex machine bolt with some washers and a nut (should have just gotten a 4" long bolt, but oh well) to do compression with the RWC DU and NB tools. Worked great! The DU bushing on the shock link side was pretty gunky, but probably "kinda ok". I still have creaks based on my test ride this evening, so after tomorrow's ride, I'll probably be taking apart the seatstay and shock link and getting it prepared for new bearings and LocTite 638.

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    I was able to extract the bearings from the shock link pivot after a lot of work. The drive side bearing had an obvious gap in the inner seal, which I took to mean that it was nearing failure in some way. Perhaps that bearing was the source of the creaking.

    I have not been able to extract any of the four bearings on the seat stay and was wondering what tool (improvised or otherwise) you use to force out the bearing while applying heat. I have tried a vise with a small cylindrical metal plug on one of the bearings on the dropout end and could not get it to budge. It is difficult to get anything in there to get enough hammering force to work evidently. Judging by the amount of work it took to extract the shock link pivot bearings, I need to put more force into the seat stay bearings, but can't really get to them enough to do the job.

    Any methods you have used that worked would be appreciated.

    Thanks!

  28. #28
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    It's not easy

    I used a hairdryer on high heat and beat them out with a hammer and a socket while I had the heat on it. You have to get it pretty hot before the old 638 loosens up a bit. Once you get some movement your on your way. have some else hold the heat on it while you beat it out.just make sure you don't damage your seatstay. NO VISE.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

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    One of the main pivot bearings, the non-drive side one, was very toasty and crunchy when I took the swing arm off. I got the old ones out and new ones in today and the swing arm reinstalled. It is much smoother now. Now, just waiting on the adhesive for the seat stay bearings to cure. I'll probably have it back together on Saturday.

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    Doing mine, now. Taking my time, as the bolt kit is not here yet and the shock is at PUSH. Installed 3 bearings tonight, will let cure overnight and then install the other 3 later.

    The old bearings came out pretty easily. Used a heat gun on "medium", and an 11mm socket with a long extension that poked through the bearing on the other side. Hit the extension/socket w/ a BFH. Worked perfectly.

    The shock link bearings were BARELY glued in. Popped right out and very little 638 needed to be removed from the bores. I actually had to double-check the instructions to make sure 638 was supposed to be used there.

    Removing the old 638 from the bores is a PITA. I used a 3M green scotch pad that I cut into tiny little finger ptip sized pieces. Is there a solvent that will make quick work of it? Would be nice for next time.

    The bearings fit quite tightly in the seatstay bores, but just dropped right in the shock link. I suspect this has something to do with paint vs. anodizing in the bores.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  31. #31
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    This is what I did also

    When I was assembling everything I put a ton of grease on each side of the bearing seals then put the nylon spacers over it. It is just another water barrier I believe which will help to keep any crap out. Use the best waterproof grease you can get your hands on for this application. I hope all you guys used the RWC MAX bearings for the new ones. Let me add since I did all this my Rize rear suspension is off the charts.

    My set up:
    RWC MAX bearings for the all the pivots.
    RWC needle bearing kit fot the shock eyes.
    PUSHED Monarch RT/AM 200mm x 57mm.

    Your Rize is a 140mm bike, all you have to do is get the 57mm stroke in your shock not the 50 mm shock. That is how they got 140mm out of the RZ 140. It is the SAME frame as the rize.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

  32. #32
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    This is what I did also

    When I was assembling everything I put a ton of grease on each side of the bearing seals then put the nylon spacers over it. It is just another water barrier I believe which will help to keep any crap out. Use the best waterproof grease you can get your hands on for this application. I hope all you guys used the RWC MAX bearings for the new ones. Let me add since I did all this my Rize rear suspension is off the charts.

    My set up:
    RWC MAX bearings for the all the pivots.
    RWC needle bearing kit fot the shock eyes.
    PUSHED Monarch RT/AM 200mm x 57mm.

    Your Rize is a 140mm bike, all you have to do is get the 57mm stroke in your shock not the 50 mm shock. That is how they got 140mm out of the RZ 140. It is the SAME frame as the rize.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by danoalb View Post
    When I was assembling everything I put a ton of grease on each side of the bearing seals then put the nylon spacers over it. It is just another water barrier I believe which will help to keep any crap out. Use the best waterproof grease you can get your hands on for this application. I hope all you guys used the RWC MAX bearings for the new ones. Let me add since I did all this my Rize rear suspension is off the charts.

    My set up:
    RWC MAX bearings for the all the pivots.
    RWC needle bearing kit fot the shock eyes.
    PUSHED Monarch RT/AM 200mm x 57mm.

    Your Rize is a 140mm bike, all you have to do is get the 57mm stroke in your shock not the 50 mm shock. That is how they got 140mm out of the RZ 140. It is the SAME frame as the rize.
    Funny, I was thinking of creating a "grease dam" for the bearings. Figure it can't hurt anything . . .

    Yep, went with RWC max bearings as you suggested.


    Not sure about the idea of modding a 120 to 140mm. The RZ 140 has a different (slacker)frame geo, and a different shock link geo. They are truly two different bikes.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

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    All of the new bearings are in the seat stay now and I am waiting for the LocTite 638 adhesive to cure. I'll be riding my old Super-V tomorrow I guess. It will be an interesting contrast to go back to a 1998 bike from the much more modern full suspension Rize. V-brakes! Yikes.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DRSpalding View Post
    I'll be riding my old Super-V tomorrow I guess. It will be an interesting contrast to go back to a 1998 bike from the much more modern full suspension Rize. V-brakes! Yikes.
    Haha. I'm riding my '95 Stumpjumper today. But will likely keep it on the street and do some hill training.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  36. #36
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    Was talking about Rizes

    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumpy View Post
    Funny, I was thinking of creating a "grease dam" for the bearings. Figure it can't hurt anything . . .

    Yep, went with RWC max bearings as you suggested.


    Not sure about the idea of modding a 120 to 140mm. The RZ 140 has a different (slacker)frame geo, and a different shock link geo. They are truly two different bikes.

    Stumpy, I know you have a RZ120 I was talking to anybody that has the original Rize 130. All they did to make it 130 is to give it a 200mm x 50mm shock. The bikes real travel is a tad over 145.......148 I believe it was measured to. ALL RIZES can be a 140mm bike with just a shock change.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

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    Quote Originally Posted by danoalb View Post
    Stumpy, I know you have a RZ120 I was talking to anybody that has the original Rize 130. All they did to make it 130 is to give it a 200mm x 50mm shock. The bikes real travel is a tad over 145.......148 I believe it was measured to. ALL RIZES can be a 140mm bike with just a shock change.
    Ah, I see.

    Pls excuse my newbness to the RZ/Rize.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

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    Ahhhh. Nice, quiet, and smooth. New bearings in the pivot, shock link, and seat stay along with the needle bearing replacement of the DU bushings in the shock eyelets has made the bike more comfortable, better handling, and has sliced the bread straight.

    All in all, a good thing to do the my Rize.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DRSpalding View Post
    Ahhhh. Nice, quiet, and smooth. New bearings in the pivot, shock link, and seat stay along with the needle bearing replacement of the DU bushings in the shock eyelets has made the bike more comfortable, better handling, and has sliced the bread straight.

    All in all, a good thing to do the my Rize.
    Ah, the sound of success. Congrats.

    Can't wait to get my shock back later this week . . .
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  40. #40
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    ... and if we just ... Yea I know the feeling

    Quote Originally Posted by DRSpalding View Post
    Ahhhh. Nice, quiet, and smooth. New bearings in the pivot, shock link, and seat stay along with the needle bearing replacement of the DU bushings in the shock eyelets has made the bike more comfortable, better handling, and has sliced the bread straight.

    All in all, a good thing to do the my Rize.

    Yea that out of the showroom new bike feel is back but even better with the super slick needle bearing kit It is definitely worth all the hassle but it's not really that hard to do. Now grasshopper you have become one with your bike.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

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    Got my shock back from PUSH today. Mounted her up and hit the trails w/ the new max pivot bearings/bolts. Did 10 miles. The rear end feels great - better than new!
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  42. #42
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    I'm about to order these bearings as my Rize 140 is now just a bit over a year and a half old. I guess I must have good luck, because even now the rear end is quiet and smooth. I just figure to head off a problem before it starts. So I just had a few questions for those that have done this service.

    1. What is the best way to remove the original Loctite from the bores?
    2. Do you need a bearing press to get out the main pivot bolts?
    3. What are you all using for bearing grease?
    "Got everything you need?"

  43. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    I'm about to order these bearings as my Rize 140 is now just a bit over a year and a half old. I guess I must have good luck, because even now the rear end is quiet and smooth. I just figure to head off a problem before it starts. So I just had a few questions for those that have done this service.

    1. What is the best way to remove the original Loctite from the bores?
    2. Do you need a bearing press to get out the main pivot bolts?
    3. What are you all using for bearing grease?
    1. Dunno if its "the best way", but I used a 3M green scouring pad (to no avail) and then used my Dremel w/ scouring pad attachment (at the lowest possible rpm and pressure). Cleaned-up the bores very nicely without enlarging them.

    2. Dunno - did not do the swing arm pivot.

    3. The bearings are sealed. I put a little Park Tool grease on the bearing seals in the hopes of helping to keep water/crud out.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  44. #44
    I Love my Rize
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    It's not that hard

    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    I'm about to order these bearings as my Rize 140 is now just a bit over a year and a half old. I guess I must have good luck, because even now the rear end is quiet and smooth. I just figure to head off a problem before it starts. So I just had a few questions for those that have done this service.

    1. What is the best way to remove the original Loctite from the bores?
    2. Do you need a bearing press to get out the main pivot bolts?
    3. What are you all using for bearing grease?
    Question 1... A heat gun or a hair dryer on high while using a circular wire brush, I would bet that a brass brush from a 12 gauge gun cleaning kit work work nice........I used a wire brush driven by my electric hand drill. DO NOT USE SANDPAPER

    Question 2... no you don't but they are nice if you have one. used a socket with a extension and beat it out gently. The bolts themselves don't need to be pressed out as it will slide out once you take the nut off but the bearings themselves will have to be pressed or driven out.

    Question 3....The new bearings are sealed and they use a very very good grease.... Stumpy and I used grease as a extra barrier while assembling everything. For the record books I use Royal Purple ultra performance grease.
    Early to bed early to RIZE makes a man healthy, wealthy <(scratch that) and wize.

    RIGHTY on a LEFTY

  45. #45
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    OK, thanks for the tips. Picked up a heat gun today and ordered up the seal kits.
    "Got everything you need?"

  46. #46
    Reno N.V.
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    I can also vouch for the RWC needle bearing shock eye. I did the rear only on an already push'd RP2. The suspension bearings were C'dale bearings I had already had in the tool box, not the Enduro goodness.

    Overall, the suspension is smoother in action and small bump sensitivity has increased (smoother). To me, high speed bump performance is unchanged, and as said before, the rebound needed a slow down for what seemed to be from the smoothness of the needle bearings. All good and worth the time.

    Thanks Dano!
    Cannondale Rize 3
    Atomlab Trail Pimp

  47. #47
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    Has anyone used Permatex 64000 "Sleeve Retainer" in place of Loctite 638? It's uses include bearings/bushings, engine rings and valve seats, so seems like it should have the holding power necessary for an MTB suspension.
    "Got everything you need?"

  48. #48
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    Prolly will work fine for assembly and holding, but disassembly requires 450 deg of heat, should you ever wish to redo the bearings again. http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/64040.pdf

    That's a lot of heat that could do harm to the pain and/or be a PITA to get the bearings out.

    I got my 638 via mail-order within about 2 days . . .
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing View Post
    638 is listed at 250C which is 482F
    You are correct.

    So disassmbly heat should not be a problem.

    Sorry for the misinfo.
    '95 M2 StumpJumper FS
    '11 Cannondale RZ 120-two

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stumpjumpy View Post
    Prolly will work fine for assembly and holding, but disassembly requires 450 deg of heat, should you ever wish to redo the bearings again. http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/64040.pdf

    That's a lot of heat that could do harm to the pain and/or be a PITA to get the bearings out.

    I got my 638 via mail-order within about 2 days . . .
    638 is listed at 250C which is 482F...how hot is too hot for the carbon fiber and aluminum races?
    "Got everything you need?"

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