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  1. #1
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    My 2012 Cannondale Flash Ultimate needs a diet ;)

    Don't tell her I told you... but I want her to go on a diet.

    Realistically, without spending thousands.... is there a way to get the weight down?

    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  2. #2
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    Tires and seat post stand out to me.

  3. #3
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    Every single part of your bike can be lighter including taking the paint off the frame but I wouldn't consider that an upgrade. Check out Eliflap's bikes to see a hardcore Cannondale weenie.

  4. #4
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    Tbh, I'm just waiting for Eliflap to see this thread and give me a list lol!

    It's only a matter of time
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  5. #5
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    lol @ Eliflap comments He's going to make you sand that nice paint job off though!

    SAVE seatpost is nice but around 229g You could swap that for KCNC - 160g ish
    Crossmax SLR's are not that light either. You could save about 100-200g there I reckon
    Foam grips 50g ish saving
    Schmolke handlebar - 30g saving

    How much does the bike weigh at the moment btw? It can't exactly be"heavy"


    Even if you're not in Europe, this site is a good reference: r2-bike.de They have pics of all the components on scales so you can see how much the real weight is, not what the lying manufacturers say it weighs...

  6. #6
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    You can prolly shave 350g for about a grand. Or shave your entire head/body and take a pre-race/ride dump.

    Or both.

    Keep in mind that there are of course lighter wheelsets than the Mavic SLR, but most will likely be weaker and not be lighter in the actual rim (which is where it really counts).

    Unless you are tiny and ride on smooth terrain, beware of feathery parts w/ a stated rider weight limit.
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  7. #7
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    what does it currently weight?

  8. #8
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    I haven't weighed her in a long time.... I think she's around 17lbs (not exactly heavy). But that's with tubes, if I went tubeless, I could probably get like1lbs off...
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  9. #9
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    Is your objective just to get it as light as possible? Or are you racing it etc?

    I got to a point with my 29er Flash where I didn't want to give up any performance / comfort (Save post, Ergon grips, comfy saddle, etc.) just to get a few more grams off. That pretty much dictated where the weight saving stopped for me.

  10. #10
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    I too like light weight bikes, but unless they're just for showing off, I wouldn't trade reliability and performance just to save weight. Sure a light bike is nice and climbs like a rocket, but if you like to ride or if you race, you want a bike that will let you finish your rides and races. I've tried some light wheels that were theorically great but if they're not stiff enough, it's not an upgrade over much stiffer wheels that are a tad heavier. And where I live, trails are technical, lots of rocks and roots, bikes need to be able to take some abuse so again, too light often means more fragile. At 17lbs, you have a bike that is light but not crazy light, it's built to handle real mountain bike riding so I wouldn't go crazy.

    I'd ditch the tubes that's for sure, cheap upgrade that will not only drop some weight but also give a better ride, more traction and less flats...

    I haven't tried the SAVE seatpost much but I don't think I'd really need it, You could drop some weight there.

    I don't remember what bars are on your bike, I'm getting more picky on bars now, but more for fit and comfort... I like new school wide bars with more sweep than classical flat XC bars. On my Scalpel, I switched to a lower and longer stem with a wider bar with more sweep. My weight is pretty much distributed the same way between both wheels but I'm more comfortable, I have more pulling torque for climbing and the width helps on fast and steep descents. Your bars look very high, but fit is very personal.
    Last edited by Dan Gerous; 03-15-2012 at 07:12 AM.

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jimification View Post
    Is your objective just to get it as light as possible? Or are you racing it etc?

    I got to a point with my 29er Flash where I didn't want to give up any performance / comfort (Save post, Ergon grips, comfy saddle, etc.) just to get a few more grams off. That pretty much dictated where the weight saving stopped for me.
    I'm going to be racing her, and I think you've hit the nail on the head there if I'm honest.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous View Post
    I too like light weight bikes, but unless they're just for showing off, I wouldn't trade reliability and performance just to save weight. Sure a light bike is nice and climbs like a rocket, but if you like to ride or if you race, you want a bike that will let you finish your rides and races. I've tried some light wheels that were theorically great but if they're not stiff enough, it's not an upgrade over much stiffer wheels that are a tad heavier. And where I live, trails are technical, lots of rocks and roots, bikes need to be able to take some abuse so again, too light often means more fragile. At 17lbs, you have a bike that is light but not crazy light, it's built to handle real mountain bike riding so I wouldn't go crazy.

    I'd ditch the tubes that's for sure, cheap upgrade that will not only drop some weight but also give a better ride, more traction and less flats...

    I haven't tried the SAVE seatpost much but I don't think I'd really need it, You could drop some weight there.

    I don't remember what bars are on your bike, I'm getting more picky on bars now, but more for fit and comfort... I like new school wide bars with more sweep than classical flat XC bars. On my Scalpel, I switched to a lower and longer stem with a wider bar with more sweep. My weight is pretty much distributed the same way between both wheels but I'm more comfortable, I have more pulling torque for climbing and the width helps on fast and steep descents. Your bars look very high, but fit is very personal.
    It comes with the FSA K-Force bars.. I'm actually planning on swapping them out for the FSA K-force risers, simply because I don't like flats. I find them really uncomfortable....

    The plan was always to go tubeless, I just haven't got round to it yet... with regards to the save seat post, I kinda like it, it's comfy I guess I could change it if I had to... but it would only be if I had to.

    What do you think about the DT Swiss XCR's that came on the 2011 Flash Ultimate vs the Mavic SLR's?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    What do you think about the DT Swiss XCR's that came on the 2011 Flash Ultimate vs the Mavic SLR's?
    I haven't tried them but heard good things. The rear hub is way better than the Mavic (durability and mechanically speaking although, to Mavic's credit, it takes about 5 minutes to completely rebuild the rear Mavic hub with only two allen wrenches), the rims are quite lighter too but heard they're tough and very stiff... the rest of the wheels is probably not as stiff as the Crossmax SLR (theorically. Low count, light steel spokes, DT rear hubs have the spoke flanges a bit closer to each other)... I'd guess overall stiffness should be comparable. I almost bought a pair once but my bike budget was a bit too tight. And of course, the Mavic rims are the easiest to setup tubeless. But take it for what it is, I haven't tried them so perhaps people who did could give some more valuable feedback...

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  13. #13
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    and what is your weight? perhaps it's cheaper to drop couple of killos from yourself

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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    I haven't weighed her in a long time.... I think she's around 17lbs (not exactly heavy). But that's with tubes, if I went tubeless, I could probably get like1lbs off...
    Are you sure about the weight? I have almost the same exact build on a 2011 Flash Ultimate and mine weights in at 18lbs (confirmed on two different shop scales).

    The few differences on my 2011 Flash are all lighter as well..a Fizik Carbon Cyrano post (lighter than the SAVE), Fizik Tundra 00 saddle (Lighter than the Tundra 2), tubeless Racing Ralph FR & RR, Slim Lefty boot, and size small frame. Everything else is the same so I imagine yours is probably over 18lbs. Still very light.


  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    I haven't weighed her in a long time.... I think she's around 17lbs (not exactly heavy). But that's with tubes, if I went tubeless, I could probably get like1lbs off...
    Tubeless is good for roughly 50-100g per wheel vs. a decent tube. Obviously, its a no-brainer mod that should be done anyway, but don't expect to drop a pound . . .
    Last edited by Stumpjumpy; 03-16-2012 at 08:47 AM.
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by KtKona View Post
    Are you sure about the weight? I have almost the same exact build on a 2011 Flash Ultimate and mine weights in at 18lbs (confirmed on two different shop scales).

    The few differences on my 2011 Flash are all lighter as well..a Fizik Carbon Cyrano post (lighter than the SAVE), Fizik Tundra 00 saddle (Lighter than the Tundra 2), tubeless Racing Ralph FR & RR, Slim Lefty boot, and size small frame. Everything else is the same so I imagine yours is probably over 18lbs. Still very light.
    First of all, she's a beaut.

    I can't remember the exact weight, but it's definitely under 18lbs... Not sure why mines lighter? Are you running the hi-mod frame or something? That was with pedals as well... Have you noticed, we both have each other's Lefty's? lol! Give it back!
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    First of all, she's a beaut.

    I can't remember the exact weight, but it's definitely under 18lbs... Not sure why mines lighter? Are you running the hi-mod frame or something? That was with pedals as well... Have you noticed, we both have each other's Lefty's? lol! Give it back!
    Well I guess it's mine that needs a diet!

    I am puzzled as to where the difference would be? The frame is also a BallisTec Hi-MOD carbon. In addition to the lighter parts I have, my cranks 170mm and OPI stem 90mm should also be good for a few more grams. Maybe the tires? What size tires do you are your Racing Ralph and Nobby Nic? My Racing Ralphs are 2.25" and were approx. 525g ea.

    Anyone else have an idea where the weight difference could be?

    Yea, I didn't like the green clamps on the 2011 Lefty so I went with a 2012 Lefty with black clamps and an 88 aid tuning with team decal.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by KtKona View Post
    Well I guess it's mine that needs a diet!

    I am puzzled as to where the difference would be? The frame is also a BallisTec Hi-MOD carbon. In addition to the lighter parts I have, my cranks 170mm and OPI stem 90mm should also be good for a few more grams. Maybe the tires? What size tires do you are your Racing Ralph and Nobby Nic? My Racing Ralphs are 2.25" and were approx. 525g ea.

    Anyone else have an idea where the weight difference could be?

    Yea, I didn't like the green clamps on the 2011 Lefty so I went with a 2012 Lefty with black clamps and an 88 aid tuning with team decal.

    I have no idea, I'll get her weighed up and take a picture for you The frame is the frame that is found on the 2011 Flash Ultimate right?

    I'm pretty sure it's the 2012 shock.. you can get the same forks on the Scalpel's. Not sure why I ended up with those colors... I really like the green clamps. The 2011 frame is better looking if you ask me.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  19. #19
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    Finally found your new colorful mint fresh ultimate sweet.

    Great ideas in this thread:-

    Lose weight: take a poo

  20. #20
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    I'm getting there, it takes time though.

    So far Ive...

    - Swapped the Mavic SLRs for DT Swiss XCR 1.2s
    - Ditched the Avids for Hope Race X2s

    I'm going to swap the seat post out, as well as running some tubeless Racing Ralphs and getting some Egg Beater 11s.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  21. #21
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    I have XTRs on all my MTB bikes, how you finding the Egg Beaters - they look uncomfy!

    I have DT Swiss on the hi-mod and it's a great wheelset - considering Stan ZTRs to lighten both bikes but tbh don't need it..

    Will ride them a season & see what they need. Ride & get fit & stop looking at upgrades.

  22. #22
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    The Egg Beaters are amazing.

    Get the DT Swiss xcd 1.2s they're an amazing wheel set!

    Yeah, I need to do that also.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  23. #23
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    Poop more & loose weight it's free

    True nice wheelset I have the 200g heavier approx xcr's 1.5

  24. #24
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    They're alloy though right?

    They won't be as stiff...
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    They're alloy though right?

    They won't be as stiff...
    It's not an upgrade - the Mavic SLRs would be stiffer (but are not the lightest) the XCR1.2s carbons you suggest would beat them pants down.

    The xcr's 1.2s are maybe worth the few hundred grams difference if you can pick up a set ...
    Last edited by wallstreet; 11-24-2012 at 05:39 PM.

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    This post is a bit confusing lol, can you re-jigg it so it's legible?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  27. #27
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    You can probably save some 100 grams by switching to a carbon steer tube and use a light 1 1/8" stem. Check out r2-bike.de for carbon steer tubes.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossmaxx View Post
    You can probably save some 100 grams by switching to a carbon steer tube and use a light 1 1/8" stem. Check out r2-bike.de for carbon steer tubes.
    BoostN7

    Decrease the steerer weight read here:

    Has anyone spoken to Mattias recently?

    To 88g


    Carbon Lefty Steerer Tubes Ŧ Experimental Prototype

    Here are some pictures of the item above. I am not convinced after reading that the original Steerer is 65g made of Aluminium:

    r2-bike.com/Cannondale-steuerrohr-SI-OPI - Translator

    So what people have been doing is changing to a carbon steerer to save weight on the OPI Stem that weighs around 182g.

    My conclusion: Its original stem is cosmetically more pleasing vs the 80-90g weight saving.
    Last edited by wallstreet; 11-25-2012 at 09:06 AM.

  29. #29
    FIRENZE rulez !!
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    somebody call me ?

  30. #30
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    Rep to Eli for years of helpful posts.

  31. #31
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    want to give a different tip, other fellas already gave many tips about several parts ..

    have you seen what Mattias done to me ?

    a combo steerer tube/stem/handlebar all in carbon , all in sub 270 g
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 2012 Cannondale Flash Ultimate needs a diet ;)-20121014-113719.jpg  


  32. #32
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    LoL Eli, I have been stalking the photos of your bike and build last night in fact. Very cool and unique build.

    Tell me more about your wheelset and its weight please. I also couldnt find your seat anywhere?

    I was looking on the site you bought from and its a very interesting proposition:-

    Cannondale Steerer-COMBO (steerer-stem-handlebar). 209 grams for a 600m wide AX poseidon at 89gr with a 72 gr green Lefty tube. Stem rise: -10°, 100mm long. One layer Pennon aramid hybrid weave 6-7 layers carbon 3k on a UD stem tube.

    This item is 500 Euros. Carbon Lefty Steerer Tubes Ŧ Experimental Prototype

    Its another great way to lose weight. Any more photos of your steerer and setup, just to get close up on it.

    @BoostN7 any plans for these diets?

  33. #33
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    @Eli & @BoostN7

    How about this to reduce further weight: Carbon Brake rotors

    This relates to the topic of weight reduction via calipers, I think I would like to see it tested independently before trying it downhill

  34. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap View Post
    want to give a different tip, other fellas already gave many tips about several parts ..

    have you seen what Mattias done to me ?

    a combo steerer tube/stem/handlebar all in carbon , all in sub 270 g
    Hmmm, I'm not sure I like the book of that steerer lol.

    I'm quite happy with my bike after switching the wheels and the brakes. I could get her lighter, but at what cost? It's really not worth it.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  35. #35
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    BoostN7: I have testicles too I used a hair dryer & lost a gram or two



    Stealth wheels, the DT Swiss stickers are all off now

    Just ride it

  36. #36
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    And why did you do that? :O
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    And why did you do that? :O
    It looks better. In truth it was since some of the stickers were coming off. (I was only joking about the weight loss, let's leave it to EliF).

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    Really..you have changed the SLRīs? And why do you run tubes in it? Those are so cool and your bike is light enought for racing. More then enough if you ask me..too light indeed.
    I wouldnīt change anything as you posted in the 1st pic because sheīs a beauty as it is. Changing the wheels will definitely, in my opinion, kill the fantastic looks of that bike.
    You think because losing 200g in weight you will race better? No way man..no way...200g isnīt even noticiable!

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    Really..you have changed the SLRīs? And why do you run tubes in it? Those are so cool and your bike is light enought for racing. More then enough if you ask me..too light indeed.
    I wouldnīt change anything as you posted in the 1st pic because sheīs a beauty as it is. Changing the wheels will definitely, in my opinion, kill the fantastic looks of that bike.
    You think because losing 200g in weight you will race better? No way man..no way...200g isnīt even noticiable!

    BoostN7's green makes it light (joking mate), my stickers make it even more lighter. Joking aside I understand the move to his XCR DT Swiss 1.2s whilst I have stock XCR DT Swiss 1.5s only 200g heavier than his Carbon sweet rims. If I ever changed or upgraded I would lighten up with 650b size change on my hi-mod 2 which will mean it doesnt really change much in weight reduction...

    I agree with you, losing the weight will not make average joe (me) ride better... thus I am planning to just tweak a few thinks and just "ride on" ... time next year to Improve my fitness (low after pneumonia in summer)

  40. #40
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    The DT Swiss XCR 1.2s actually look better than the Mavics, the black white and green really sets the bike off. Mind you, anything would look better than the SLRs. They're one ugly wheel set.

    I agree with you that weight saving won't make a difference to the average Joe, but that doesn't make it any less fun lol!

    Here's a photo of my bike as it currently stands.

    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    LoL Eli, I have been stalking the photos of your bike and build last night in fact. Very cool and unique build.

    Tell me more about your wheelset and its weight please.
    my Flash is a big sister , 29er ...

    my wheelset is Industry Nine hubs and spokes ( 62 blacks and 2 greens ) 1550 g

    close to be replaced with ZTR Notubes set 1330 g , probably on sunday

    both sets have 10x135mm rear skewer

    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    LoL Eli, I have been stalking the photos of your bike and build last night in fact. Very cool and unique build.

    I also couldnt find your seat anywhere?

    I
    my saddle is a Saevid , hand sanded

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    Eliflap has got to be part of the Italian Mafia or something
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    itīs looking very good indeed of course..that bike is killer looking tho I still prefer the SLRīs...Letīs see how much pain those 1.2 will give you when they start to fall apart after you race some good rocky tracks!
    You are running Nobby Nicīs on that bike? Man...those tires are not for racing and are heavy and worst of all, wonīt give you any speed. They attach to the floor like glue!
    Havenīt you tried the Racing Ralphs or you donīt like them? They were more appropriated to that bike if racing is your purpose..you need a fast tire.
    Anyways..itīs a super cool bike and YES you should have loads of FUN with it
    Last edited by Ginbraiba; 11-28-2012 at 11:35 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    650b size change on my hi-mod 2
    and then your 26 frame break and you cry because your warranty is void

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    itīs looking very good indeed of course..that bike is killer looking tho I still prefer the SLRīs...Letīs see how much pain those 1.2 will give you when they start to fall apart after you race some good rocky tracks!
    You are running Nobby Nicīs on that bike? Man...those tires are not for racing and are heavy and worst of all, wonīt give you any speed. They attach to the floor like glue!
    Havenīt you tried the Racing Ralphs or you donīt like them? They were more appropriated to that bike if racing is your purpose..you need a fast tire
    Ging-Man

    Assuming BoostN7 trails are slightly moist and mucky.

    Nobby Nic is a good compromise for winter wonderland weather in the UK, even for me in Suisse. I know that BoostN7 uses Ralph Evos for better weather conditions otherwise it can be quite a slippy type of tyre and the sidewalls are known as its weak achilles heel.

    I know a few who are very good trail meisters who use this combination: Review: Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Racing Ralph Tyre Combination | Bicycles Network Australia


    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    and then your 26 frame break and you cry because your warranty is void
    Thus I am enquiring to its possibility, warranty in Europe only lasts for 5 years (cop out by C'dale as its the same bike as in the USA). My plan is to run my 29er and do some of the same runs in the 26 hi-mod, it could be that I don't want to change. Or in a year get a 650b as well.

    On the 26, so far I run Larssen TT 2.0 on the rear and Maxxis 2.1 on the front. It gives the bike a light tubeless feel running low psi but I find the bike feels quite nervous. I plan to switch to Nobby Nics this winter 2.25s front and rear and will experiment with Racing Ralphs Evos 2.25 in Summer.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    itīs looking very good indeed of course..that bike is killer looking tho I still prefer the SLRīs...Letīs see how much pain those 1.2 will give you when they start to fall apart after you race some good rocky tracks!
    You are running Nobby Nicīs on that bike? Man...those tires are not for racing and are heavy and worst of all, wonīt give you any speed. They attach to the floor like glue!
    Havenīt you tried the Racing Ralphs or you donīt like them? They were more appropriated to that bike if racing is your purpose..you need a fast tire.
    Anyways..itīs a super cool bike and YES you should have loads of FUN with it
    There is not a perfect tire for everyone and everywhere. I love the Racing Ralphs most of the time, but depending the trails one rides, they could suck too. Same goes for Nobby Nics, great in some conditions, not so in others.

    As for wheels... The last generation of the Crossmax are better, but older rear hubs (FTS-L and FTS-X) will fall apart quicker than the Carbon rims of the DT 1.2 wheels... bearings don't last, axle break, freehubs don't last... Most mountain bike carbon rims are surprisingly tough and durable, not worst than the Mavic rims. The ITS-4 equipped rear hubs are better though, quicker too.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  47. #47
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    @Ginbraiba; The SLRs are a good set of wheels, I swapped them over after wrecking a second set of them haha! The Nic's are my winter tires. I sometimes run a Nic on the front and a Ralph on the back. When the trails dry up I'll switch over to some tubeless Ralphs for some major trail blazing!

    My current shopping list is:

    - Hope Jockey wheels
    - New Pedals (probably Egg Beater Cs with ti spindles)
    - Fizik Cyrano seatpost
    - Tubeless Racing Ralphs
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  48. #48
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    You killed 2 sets of slrīs? grrrrr!!!
    RRalph Tubeless Ready? Iīve used them front and back and gotta say i loved them. No roling resistence, good cornering until they got worn fast but loved them. and the weight is killer too.
    But i also know lots of people who hates them

  49. #49
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    Ginbraiba: do you really live in Azores? How long does it take you to get around the Island?

  50. #50
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    why would you use the cyrano seatpost vs the SAVE?

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