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  1. #26
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    This post is a bit confusing lol, can you re-jigg it so it's legible?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  2. #27
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    You can probably save some 100 grams by switching to a carbon steer tube and use a light 1 1/8" stem. Check out r2-bike.de for carbon steer tubes.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Crossmaxx View Post
    You can probably save some 100 grams by switching to a carbon steer tube and use a light 1 1/8" stem. Check out r2-bike.de for carbon steer tubes.
    BoostN7

    Decrease the steerer weight read here:

    Has anyone spoken to Mattias recently?

    To 88g


    Carbon Lefty Steerer Tubes Ŧ Experimental Prototype

    Here are some pictures of the item above. I am not convinced after reading that the original Steerer is 65g made of Aluminium:

    r2-bike.com/Cannondale-steuerrohr-SI-OPI - Translator

    So what people have been doing is changing to a carbon steerer to save weight on the OPI Stem that weighs around 182g.

    My conclusion: Its original stem is cosmetically more pleasing vs the 80-90g weight saving.
    Last edited by wallstreet; 11-25-2012 at 10:06 AM.

  4. #29
    FIRENZE rulez !!
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    somebody call me ?

  5. #30
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    Rep to Eli for years of helpful posts.

  6. #31
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    want to give a different tip, other fellas already gave many tips about several parts ..

    have you seen what Mattias done to me ?

    a combo steerer tube/stem/handlebar all in carbon , all in sub 270 g
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails My 2012 Cannondale Flash Ultimate needs a diet ;)-20121014-113719.jpg  


  7. #32
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    LoL Eli, I have been stalking the photos of your bike and build last night in fact. Very cool and unique build.

    Tell me more about your wheelset and its weight please. I also couldnt find your seat anywhere?

    I was looking on the site you bought from and its a very interesting proposition:-

    Cannondale Steerer-COMBO (steerer-stem-handlebar). 209 grams for a 600m wide AX poseidon at 89gr with a 72 gr green Lefty tube. Stem rise: -10°, 100mm long. One layer Pennon aramid hybrid weave 6-7 layers carbon 3k on a UD stem tube.

    This item is 500 Euros. Carbon Lefty Steerer Tubes Ŧ Experimental Prototype

    Its another great way to lose weight. Any more photos of your steerer and setup, just to get close up on it.

    @BoostN7 any plans for these diets?

  8. #33
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    @Eli & @BoostN7

    How about this to reduce further weight: Carbon Brake rotors

    This relates to the topic of weight reduction via calipers, I think I would like to see it tested independently before trying it downhill

  9. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by eliflap View Post
    want to give a different tip, other fellas already gave many tips about several parts ..

    have you seen what Mattias done to me ?

    a combo steerer tube/stem/handlebar all in carbon , all in sub 270 g
    Hmmm, I'm not sure I like the book of that steerer lol.

    I'm quite happy with my bike after switching the wheels and the brakes. I could get her lighter, but at what cost? It's really not worth it.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  10. #35
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    BoostN7: I have testicles too I used a hair dryer & lost a gram or two



    Stealth wheels, the DT Swiss stickers are all off now

    Just ride it

  11. #36
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    And why did you do that? :O
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    And why did you do that? :O
    It looks better. In truth it was since some of the stickers were coming off. (I was only joking about the weight loss, let's leave it to EliF).

  13. #38
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    Really..you have changed the SLRīs? And why do you run tubes in it? Those are so cool and your bike is light enought for racing. More then enough if you ask me..too light indeed.
    I wouldnīt change anything as you posted in the 1st pic because sheīs a beauty as it is. Changing the wheels will definitely, in my opinion, kill the fantastic looks of that bike.
    You think because losing 200g in weight you will race better? No way man..no way...200g isnīt even noticiable!

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    Really..you have changed the SLRīs? And why do you run tubes in it? Those are so cool and your bike is light enought for racing. More then enough if you ask me..too light indeed.
    I wouldnīt change anything as you posted in the 1st pic because sheīs a beauty as it is. Changing the wheels will definitely, in my opinion, kill the fantastic looks of that bike.
    You think because losing 200g in weight you will race better? No way man..no way...200g isnīt even noticiable!

    BoostN7's green makes it light (joking mate), my stickers make it even more lighter. Joking aside I understand the move to his XCR DT Swiss 1.2s whilst I have stock XCR DT Swiss 1.5s only 200g heavier than his Carbon sweet rims. If I ever changed or upgraded I would lighten up with 650b size change on my hi-mod 2 which will mean it doesnt really change much in weight reduction...

    I agree with you, losing the weight will not make average joe (me) ride better... thus I am planning to just tweak a few thinks and just "ride on" ... time next year to Improve my fitness (low after pneumonia in summer)

  15. #40
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    The DT Swiss XCR 1.2s actually look better than the Mavics, the black white and green really sets the bike off. Mind you, anything would look better than the SLRs. They're one ugly wheel set.

    I agree with you that weight saving won't make a difference to the average Joe, but that doesn't make it any less fun lol!

    Here's a photo of my bike as it currently stands.

    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  16. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    LoL Eli, I have been stalking the photos of your bike and build last night in fact. Very cool and unique build.

    Tell me more about your wheelset and its weight please.
    my Flash is a big sister , 29er ...

    my wheelset is Industry Nine hubs and spokes ( 62 blacks and 2 greens ) 1550 g

    close to be replaced with ZTR Notubes set 1330 g , probably on sunday

    both sets have 10x135mm rear skewer

    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    LoL Eli, I have been stalking the photos of your bike and build last night in fact. Very cool and unique build.

    I also couldnt find your seat anywhere?

    I
    my saddle is a Saevid , hand sanded

  17. #42
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    Eliflap has got to be part of the Italian Mafia or something
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  18. #43
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    itīs looking very good indeed of course..that bike is killer looking tho I still prefer the SLRīs...Letīs see how much pain those 1.2 will give you when they start to fall apart after you race some good rocky tracks!
    You are running Nobby Nicīs on that bike? Man...those tires are not for racing and are heavy and worst of all, wonīt give you any speed. They attach to the floor like glue!
    Havenīt you tried the Racing Ralphs or you donīt like them? They were more appropriated to that bike if racing is your purpose..you need a fast tire.
    Anyways..itīs a super cool bike and YES you should have loads of FUN with it
    Last edited by Ginbraiba; 11-28-2012 at 12:35 PM.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by wallstreet View Post
    650b size change on my hi-mod 2
    and then your 26 frame break and you cry because your warranty is void

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    itīs looking very good indeed of course..that bike is killer looking tho I still prefer the SLRīs...Letīs see how much pain those 1.2 will give you when they start to fall apart after you race some good rocky tracks!
    You are running Nobby Nicīs on that bike? Man...those tires are not for racing and are heavy and worst of all, wonīt give you any speed. They attach to the floor like glue!
    Havenīt you tried the Racing Ralphs or you donīt like them? They were more appropriated to that bike if racing is your purpose..you need a fast tire
    Ging-Man

    Assuming BoostN7 trails are slightly moist and mucky.

    Nobby Nic is a good compromise for winter wonderland weather in the UK, even for me in Suisse. I know that BoostN7 uses Ralph Evos for better weather conditions otherwise it can be quite a slippy type of tyre and the sidewalls are known as its weak achilles heel.

    I know a few who are very good trail meisters who use this combination: Review: Schwalbe Nobby Nic and Racing Ralph Tyre Combination | Bicycles Network Australia


    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    and then your 26 frame break and you cry because your warranty is void
    Thus I am enquiring to its possibility, warranty in Europe only lasts for 5 years (cop out by C'dale as its the same bike as in the USA). My plan is to run my 29er and do some of the same runs in the 26 hi-mod, it could be that I don't want to change. Or in a year get a 650b as well.

    On the 26, so far I run Larssen TT 2.0 on the rear and Maxxis 2.1 on the front. It gives the bike a light tubeless feel running low psi but I find the bike feels quite nervous. I plan to switch to Nobby Nics this winter 2.25s front and rear and will experiment with Racing Ralphs Evos 2.25 in Summer.

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ginbraiba View Post
    itīs looking very good indeed of course..that bike is killer looking tho I still prefer the SLRīs...Letīs see how much pain those 1.2 will give you when they start to fall apart after you race some good rocky tracks!
    You are running Nobby Nicīs on that bike? Man...those tires are not for racing and are heavy and worst of all, wonīt give you any speed. They attach to the floor like glue!
    Havenīt you tried the Racing Ralphs or you donīt like them? They were more appropriated to that bike if racing is your purpose..you need a fast tire.
    Anyways..itīs a super cool bike and YES you should have loads of FUN with it
    There is not a perfect tire for everyone and everywhere. I love the Racing Ralphs most of the time, but depending the trails one rides, they could suck too. Same goes for Nobby Nics, great in some conditions, not so in others.

    As for wheels... The last generation of the Crossmax are better, but older rear hubs (FTS-L and FTS-X) will fall apart quicker than the Carbon rims of the DT 1.2 wheels... bearings don't last, axle break, freehubs don't last... Most mountain bike carbon rims are surprisingly tough and durable, not worst than the Mavic rims. The ITS-4 equipped rear hubs are better though, quicker too.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  22. #47
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    @Ginbraiba; The SLRs are a good set of wheels, I swapped them over after wrecking a second set of them haha! The Nic's are my winter tires. I sometimes run a Nic on the front and a Ralph on the back. When the trails dry up I'll switch over to some tubeless Ralphs for some major trail blazing!

    My current shopping list is:

    - Hope Jockey wheels
    - New Pedals (probably Egg Beater Cs with ti spindles)
    - Fizik Cyrano seatpost
    - Tubeless Racing Ralphs
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  23. #48
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    You killed 2 sets of slrīs? grrrrr!!!
    RRalph Tubeless Ready? Iīve used them front and back and gotta say i loved them. No roling resistence, good cornering until they got worn fast but loved them. and the weight is killer too.
    But i also know lots of people who hates them

  24. #49
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    Ginbraiba: do you really live in Azores? How long does it take you to get around the Island?

  25. #50
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    why would you use the cyrano seatpost vs the SAVE?

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