Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner

Lefty PBR to XLR

11K views 14 replies 5 participants last post by  Flash29r 
#1 ·
Hello guys, i need some info here.

I have an Cannondale f29 carbon 3, which has the lefty fork described as PBR (popup lockout on the fork).

I wish to have the remote lockout as on the XLR forks, so got some basic unconfirmed info about do it yourself:
buy the remote controller from XLR fork (used or new, from ebay at least) and put it on mine PBR fork.

Is that true? Is that simple enought to do it yourself? Anyone done it before and could confirm this information?

Thanks for understanding,
Linas.
 
#2 ·
You need to completely tear down the damper to do that.

If you don't have a good working knowledge of how to do so, the seals that need to be replaced along the way, and all the tools required to do so without causing damage, then yes, it can be DIY'd.

If not? Have someone else do the job, and save yourself a bunch of time and headache.
 
#3 ·
I`m wondering about ordering the XLR remote lockout, so i could order all required seals and other parts too, if someone would provide all detailed info about them.

And what about the tools, would be really nice to get all detailed listing, what items must be replaced, what tools must be used and how to DIY.

Is there any detailed project with info, pics and discusions about doing this ? I`m really interested in it and decide to go as far as need to to place the XLR remote lockout on my PBR :/
 
#4 ·
I think you should PM the person who initially replied to your post for he is the Lefty master and will point you in the right direction on what needs to be done. In fact you could save yourself a lot of hassle sourcing everything and send it to him to have the conversion done.
The remote is nice but I did not switch out lock outs, I just bought an XLR to replace my PBR since I wanted the carbon fork also. I ended up with a lighter fork and remote lockout in one package.
 
#9 ·
The big difference for me is I wanted the carbon fork and I'll be honest I just liked the way it looked. It is 10 mm more travel then the PBR that came with the bike. I do use my lock out often for climbing and I like having it on the bar even though reaching for the button was not a huge deal. I think it climbs better locked out and to me at least I feel like I climb faster when it is locked out. I think it was a worthwhile change. I thought about doing what you are trying to do, but was easier to by the fork with it already done. I still have my PBR as a back up fork, but have not had a need for it and probably should sell it.
 
#6 ·
I don't think it's worth it, especially with modern forks which don't bob nearly as much as the old ones.

Do you really engage lockout so often that you need to have it on the handlebars, considering lefty's dual crown and you can reach it easier than regular fork.

It also adds clutter, weight and more stuff can break....
 
#10 ·
I initially thought the same as you and then I got the XLR and I like the bar mount so much better. Never have to remove your hand from the bar to lock it out. I just push the button with my left thumb to either lock or unlock without removing it from the bars at all. Try one sometime and you will end up liking it better and use it more often due to the convenience of it. Bicycle accessory Bicycle handlebar Bicycle part Bicycle Bicycles--Equipment and supplies
 
#7 ·
My take as well, an expensive widget that adds weight and hydraulic complexity to an otherwise simple, elegant system.

PBR and XLR forks are identical, save the way they lock and unlock.

The info you seek is not generally available as Cannondale doesn't put it out there, for a multitude of reasons, legal and otherwise. As such, I don't really either. I can answer questions when they pop up, but as for providing complete tutorials, lists of required items, etc, I just won't do it, for the forks sake, and to prevent people from getting upset or hurt when they get the info, screw the fork up anyway, and start looking for blame.....

Do understand, I want your fork working well, as does Cannondale, not trying to say you're a bad mechanic or anything.
 
#13 ·
My take as well, an expensive widget that adds weight and hydraulic complexity to an otherwise simple, elegant system.

PBR and XLR forks are identical, save the way they lock and unlock.

The info you seek is not generally available as Cannondale doesn't put it out there, for a multitude of reasons, legal and otherwise. As such, I don't really either. I can answer questions when they pop up, but as for providing complete tutorials, lists of required items, etc, I just won't do it, for the forks sake, and to prevent people from getting upset or hurt when they get the info, screw the fork up anyway, and start looking for blame.....

Do understand, I want your fork working well, as does Cannondale, not trying to say you're a bad mechanic or anything.
Completely understand what you are saying, and as i understand, you have some information or experience about doing this trick on cannondales lefty forks. So Am I able to write you a private message with some questions about it and a little bit advices?

But first of all, I`ll try to contact my local shops mechanic and discuss about the trick for remote lockout on the PBR, maybe he could do it for a little price, if not, i`ll contact you buddy, thanks in advanced.
 
#8 ·
I have to say, though I agree about the PBR being a very elegant solution I did find myself wishing for a handlebar lockout in races and fast singletrack riding, where I really couldn't take a hand off the bars to hit the pop top on my PBR

I looked into the swap a while ago and came to the same conclusion as Flash 29r: It ends up that you almost might as well just swap the whole fork and have done with it.

In the end, the whole issue went away when I changed the oil weight from 5 to 7.5 and that has made the fork MUCH less bobby (even at lower psi) to the point where I very rarely feel the need to use the lockout now.
 
#14 ·
Basically, you need to remove the stainless control piece that the PBR control screws on to.

This involves complete damper disassembly.

That's where I drop off. I won't detail a complete how to publicly or privately, and would advise it best to yep, chat with your local wrench.

That said, many dealers don't perform any service themselves, so a phone call is worth it first.

In the instance that they can't, I'd look for someone who has a good record of doing the job, cause it's pretty straightforward if you have the tools and experience.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top