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  1. #1
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    Lefty MAX TPC/FFD Rebound damper Exploded! (view)

    Just trying to get my parts in order - got some detail shots. This should be useful for folks who want to fix a sticky rebound control (crud on rod tip) or want to see where to put that longer part to limit travel for 29er, or need to know where all those orings are.

    1) All the parts laid out so you can put it back together correctly
    2) The adjustable part. That's the rod on the right - that little O-ring is what keeps the oil inside, and what leaked to gunk the rod.
    3) Another O-ring.
    4) The infamous Quad Seal and its home. If you have an O-ring here you need to get a Quad.
    5) Note that there is a guide bushing in there too. If you're going thru Quad seals, you may want to replace this cap - except the only way to get it is with a replacement damper (next set)
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    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  2. #2
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    In the Altogether

    6) Back together! See that white plastic cylinder? Make it 30mm longer and you have a 29er
    7) The top end assembly
    8) Fresh
    Attached Images Attached Images
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  3. #3
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    Good pictures. I have been sitting on a blow by blow of the Lefty Max SPV teardown for a while, so maybe I'll put it up one day.

    It's interesting you note the sticky rebound knob, which appears on the SPV as well. Basically, they used three dissimilar metals, the top of the damper assembly, the top cap that goes over the spring and screws onto the damper assembly, then the pushrod that pushes the valve down inside the damper when the rebound knob is screwed down. The catalysis gets so bad, that the "rusting" of the surface appears. I ended up freeing this rod using grease and coating the threads with Permatex non-hardening sealer.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wadester
    6) Back together! See that white plastic cylinder? Make it 30mm longer and you have a 29er
    Thanks for posting this. I do have a question I hope someone can answer.

    When you shorten the available stroke as (I believe) you are doing by adding a 30mm spacer, will that have any change on the performance of the fork? I saw on another post that doing this will affect how the fork ramps up because you are basically stopping it from utilizing all the travel it was designed for.

    I want to change a Lefty DLR from 110mm to 80 for use on a 29er but am hesitant until I can understand this a little better.

    Thanks for any insights!
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  5. #5
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    my experience

    I had all those concerns when I first converted, but what it boils down to is

    1) Sag must be set to the proper percent of the NEWLY REDUCED TRAVEL! This gets the spring set for 110 vs 140, and is the biggie - that I didn't do at first This is also the place where you consider which spring color to use. Too much preload, or can't take any more off means a change. I'm running a Black spring with SPV, and I'm 205 lb - which is CDale recommendation IIRC. I do have about 1" preload (I think). Will be converting to TPC+ Real Soon Now, which CDale says should mean a Brown spring, which I have ready in case.

    2) Set comp/rebound to taste as normal.

    3) Massage overused smile muscles.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

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  6. #6
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    Posting that blow by blow soon?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jerk_Chicken
    Good pictures. I have been sitting on a blow by blow of the Lefty Max SPV teardown for a while, so maybe I'll put it up one day.

    It's interesting you note the sticky rebound knob, which appears on the SPV as well. Basically, they used three dissimilar metals, the top of the damper assembly, the top cap that goes over the spring and screws onto the damper assembly, then the pushrod that pushes the valve down inside the damper when the rebound knob is screwed down. The catalysis gets so bad, that the "rusting" of the surface appears. I ended up freeing this rod using grease and coating the threads with Permatex non-hardening sealer.
    I'd like to see that teardown. When I went to reset the bearings the other day, I started by screwing in the rebound knob (like the manual recommends) but it just spun and spun. I did a quick search here but haven't found the quick fix.

    Sounds like you know the problem - how about sharing the quick fix? (hoping there is one!)

  7. #7
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    Sprung

    Quote Originally Posted by Sourdough
    I'd like to see that teardown. When I went to reset the bearings the other day, I started by screwing in the rebound knob (like the manual recommends) but it just spun and spun. I did a quick search here but haven't found the quick fix.

    Sounds like you know the problem - how about sharing the quick fix? (hoping there is one!)
    The "bullet" that controls rebound is spring loaded up - so to get the knob to start into its threads you have to push down too.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

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