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  1. #1
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Lefty Max 140 Rebound Issues

    The rebound adjustment on my lefty max 140 has become nonfunctional. The fork now has no damping (like a pogo stick) and can't be adjusted. Also, the rebound knob does not click like it should. The fork was overhauled a couple of months ago but has ridden fine until this point. Any help with this would be great...I'm out of town right now with no Cannondale dealers around to help out.

  2. #2
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    if you have SPV check air pressure . min 30 max100 PSI. had same problem, no damping and rebound didn't respond!
    pressure was to low.

  3. #3
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    Rebound knob clicks? Mine never has.

  4. #4
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    The clicks come from a spring with ball bearings on each end, clicking inside the aluminum assembly. Lose a ball, lose clicks. Did you, or someone, take it out all the way at some point?

    As for rebound, have you ever changed the spring on the fork? Same procedure. When you remove the preload adjuster assembly, what's left poking up at you is the rebound push rod. If it's stuck, no rebound. They do get frozen in place, usually water infiltration is the cause.

    If it's still not damping after you get that freed up, it's deeper inside the damper unit, like possibly the flapper valve.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  5. #5
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    I had the seals on the fork replaced a few months ago (by a local shop) but that is the only time that it has been opened up. After the rebuild it rode great. I haven't replaced the spring or fiddled with any of the internals. I went for a ride last week and it seemed fine, didn't take any hard hits or anything, and now it's busted. Very confusing.

  6. #6
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    I suspect that your SPV bladder has come off the rebound assembly. The "pogo stick" effect you describe is indicative of this. This is most likely to occur when you have exceeded the recommended SPV pressure.

    You can remove the large nut on the bottom of the fork to check for this.

    It should be attached (by an o'ring) to the bottom of the assembly as shown in this picture. If it is not, you should be dig it out of your fork with your finger and then reattach it to the assembly.

    Caution: Make sure you release the SPV air prior to unscrewing the large nut.
    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Last edited by MarkHL; 09-25-2010 at 09:04 AM.

  7. #7
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    I have the Max TPC not the SPV. Sorry, I should have made that more clear.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindan
    Very confusing.
    Frozen push rod.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Frozen push rod.
    Thanks for the help...looks like I'll have to hold off fixing it for a couple of weeks until I'm back in town with a LBS I trust.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindan
    looks like I'll have to hold off fixing it for a couple of weeks until I'm back in town with a LBS I trust.
    If you're okay with calling yourself a ham fist, that's a good plan. If you can change a tire, or a set of brake pads, you can DIY this, no problemo, in about 10 minutes......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  11. #11
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    What does the repair entail? The only issue is that I don't have a BB wrench...but I'm sure I can find one to borrow.
    Last edited by mountaindan; 09-26-2010 at 05:13 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindan
    What does the repair entail? The only issue is that I don't have a BB wrench...but I'm sure I can find one to borrow.
    Awesome! I love shops that diagnose psychically

    BB tool, undo top cap.

    Undo preload rings so spring is loose.

    19mm box wrench under the top cap, look inside the spring to where the preload section terminates, there will be a 9 mm wrench flat there, put one on it.

    Turn the preload section off. Remove the spring. You will see the push rod. If I'm wrong, this will pull out easily. If I'm right, it's stuck. put the 9mm back on the flat, and with a pair of pliers, firmly grasp the push rod, and twist the wrench. If the whole thing won't budge, you need bigger help. They usually come free pretty easily though.

    Light emory cloth clean up, some grease smeared on, and reinsert. It will get caught near the bottom, make sure it's all the way in. You'll feel a slight spring back as you push against the bottom end. That says you're good.

    If your rebound still doesn't work, get back to us.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Awesome! I love shops that diagnose psychically

    BB tool, undo top cap.

    Undo preload rings so spring is loose.

    19mm box wrench under the top cap, look inside the spring to where the preload section terminates, there will be a 9 mm wrench flat there, put one on it.

    Turn the preload section off. Remove the spring. You will see the push rod. If I'm wrong, this will pull out easily. If I'm right, it's stuck. put the 9mm back on the flat, and with a pair of pliers, firmly grasp the push rod, and twist the wrench. If the whole thing won't budge, you need bigger help. They usually come free pretty easily though.

    Light emory cloth clean up, some grease smeared on, and reinsert. It will get caught near the bottom, make sure it's all the way in. You'll feel a slight spring back as you push against the bottom end. That says you're good.

    If your rebound still doesn't work, get back to us.
    Thanks for the detailed instructions. It looks like the push rod wasn't stuck, it came out easily and after greasing and reassembling I'm still having the same issue. I also noticed that the fork was not measuring the correct extension length. After trying numerous times to reset the bearings I'm still getting a harsh top-out clunk and 700mm max extension. Part of the problem perhaps? Thanks again for the input.

  14. #14
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindan
    Thanks for the detailed instructions. It looks like the push rod wasn't stuck, it came out easily and after greasing and reassembling I'm still having the same issue. I also noticed that the fork was not measuring the correct extension length. After trying numerous times to reset the bearings I'm still getting a harsh top-out clunk and 700mm max extension. Part of the problem perhaps? Thanks again for the input.
    Stuck flapper valve then. Pretty much the only other controlling factor in the rebound circuit. Time for a service it sounds like.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  15. #15
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    That's what I was afraid of...I'll drop it off next week for servicing. Thanks MendonCycleSmith.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindan
    That's what I was afraid of...I'll drop it off next week for servicing. Thanks MendonCycleSmith.
    FYI? Cannondale no longer supports that fork. If you have a dealer that does them in house, you're all set, and bring them a 6er thanking them for doing so! If they're like most, and ship them out, it won't get worked on. At that point, you'll need to find a service center yourself. They do exist.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  17. #17
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    Perfect. I love how Cannondale touts their system integration and design, but refuses to repair a 4-year-old fork. I thought med-high end bike companies were supposed to stand behind their products? Hopefully the local guys can repair it.

  18. #18
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    i have the same going on with my 2 year old lefty RLC110!
    WTF !!! such an expensive fork and discontinued support? too ridiculous how they
    treat their customers!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by alfa75
    i have the same going on with my 2 year old lefty RLC110!
    WTF !!! such an expensive fork and discontinued support? too ridiculous how they
    treat their customers!
    I agree. I have been happy with Cannondale up until this point...but if I can't get this thing fixed I'll never support them again and encourage anyone interested buying Cannondale to steer clear. Seriously, why go through the effort of designing and manufacturing high-end components if YOU CAN'T FIX THEM!
    Last edited by mountaindan; 09-29-2010 at 04:10 PM.

  20. #20
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaindan
    I agree. I have been happy with Cannondale up until this point...but if I can't get this thing fixed I'll never support them again and encourage anyone interested buying Cannondale to steer clear. Seriously, why go through the effort of designing and manufacturing high-end components if YOU CAN"T FIX THEM!
    Your fork's issues are caused by Cannondale and Manitou no longer having a relationship.

    That was several years ago that they parted ways.

    The parts party had to end sometime, you know?

    Be glad, Cannondale for their part, still offers all the races, bearings, seals etc, so the telescope, as well and normal function of your fork, can be kept going for years, just the parts they didn't make,they can't source anymore, and they don't fail that often I see tons of them, and they keep on ticking.

    Yours is a simple fix (near as I can tell from the back seat here!). Quite unlikely you'll need any parts. Just a wrench who knows what to look for, and what to do when they find it......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  21. #21
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    Just ship it to Mendon and be done with it.




    I'm not affiliated with Mendon -- I just know he does good work and knows more about lefty's than most cannondale techs

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