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Thread: Lefty Mania!

  1. #1
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    Lefty Mania!

    Hi all... first post.

    Needing something to do over winter, I just converted my 2002 Scalpel and 2007 F4 to Lefty Carbon DLR2, purchased somewhat used (and both post-recall servicing). I installed myself. One with a plain old steerer tube and the other with the XC3 Si integrated stem/steerer. I downloaded all the tech docs and the "2007 lefty speed DLR2 SL owners manual supplement" has become my bible. One fork needed a bearing reset - easy as heck. No problems. Both are riding super sweet. Some post-install questions:

    1) One of the forks went on super easy. The other one was quite hard to squeeze on. It was as if everything was too tight by .5 mm between the upper and lower clamps. The upper bearing seal kept moving out of place, and after many frustrating attempts, I finally got everything in place. If works just fine, but is this a normal tolerance thing, or should I be concerned? Oh, and yes, both bottom and top bearings were fulling inserted into the cups.

    2) Bought some 24-spoke OEM Lefty XM 817's to get started. One is missing the seal that sits on the outer face of the large hub bearing. Where can I get replacements? Similarly, I'm looking for some extra headset bearings, oil seals, etc. Maybe I'm just anal retentive, but I like to get these things ahead of time rather than being stuck rideless when I need them. If y'all tell me just use my LBS, that's fine, but would like suggestions on what other kind of spares would be good to have on-hand.

    3) I have the bottom bracket tool used for disassebly for bearing re-set. I supposed I'll get the castle tool for cartridge service, such as for oil changes, seal replacements, etc., at some point. But what's the point of the KT020 "Ernie"? The steerer tubes were easy to guide through and just required an expected amount of tapping when pushing through / into the larger outer diameters in the clamping areas.

    4) In this post (Help installing Lefty, Mendon mentions an aluminum washer between the bottom clamp & bottom bearing. I don't have any. The installation guide in the aforementioned owners supplement clearly does not show one. Plus with the "tightness" I described above, I don't think I could have even put it into one of the two installations. Anyone have any additional input on whether this is neccessary / recommended? Apologies in advance if I'm mis-interpreting that treadh.

    5) So... where do you'all recommend loctite, if at all? (I mean external to the fork during installation - I'm not referring to the internals.) And if no loctite, then I assume grease is recommended? What about the two main lefty clamps? The steerer retainer at the bottom of the integrated steerer / stem? Anywhere else?

    6) When I removed the headshoks that were previously on these bikes, the bottom bearings came along with the fork. I drifted them out. But it was quite difficult getting the drifting started since the bearing sat right up flush against the body of the headshok. So I ended up scraping the headshok a little, which annoys me. (This is the area that's overed by the upper boot zip tie so it is invisible anyway.) Any advice on drifting these out in the future? (I aske because I have a third headshok bike that's begging for a lefty.)

    Thanks in advance everyone. Reading the forum was super helpful in orienting me to the Lefty world.

  2. #2
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    first, lets see some pics!

    second, the leftys arnt always easy to put on, I have put some on that took no time and my personal bike took many attempts because the upper seal kept sliding. I wouldnt be too concerned about the tightness of the lefty. On the lefty I would only put loctite on the bolts that hold the fork onto the steerer tube (on DLR2).

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by almontebarnes
    Hi all... first post.
    Welcome aboard

    1. Chances are your headset cups needed some additional seating in the frame, since it's one, don't sweat it till next time the fork is out, then use a headset cup press to confirm full seated-ness.

    2. Many Cannondale dealers won't have this stuff in stock, ones that do in house service most likely will. I do.

    3. It's to aid in installing and removing the steerer, it can be done with a rock, and a stick, the tool just makes it better

    4. That's only for removeable clamp forks, Left DLR, Max alloy, etc.

    5. Bolts, that's it.

    6. Best time to remove them, is when you have it all apart for service, no better way than what you did, when the forks together.

    FYI, the DLR2 SL is different in a number of ways, so be careful trying to figure stuff out on yours if it doesn't make perfect sense as you look at it and read the info you have.

    Have fun!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  4. #4
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    1. I've had the same problem, it took me half a day playing with it, until I figured I would tape the upper seal around on the bearings cup so that it wouldn't move. Then it was a breeze, the stem/steerer went straight in.

  5. #5
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    Sorry it took a while, but here is my F4-with-Lefty DLR2 Carbon.

    Of course, once I did that - and with no riding due to weather and injury - I had the urge to upgrade all the low-end components to mid-range. So out with the 1-ton crankset, in with a Truvativ Stylo, out with the BB5's in with the BB7's, out with the 360 (!) gram riser bar, in with something reasonable, out with the brick-like cassette, in with a SRAM 980. Etc, with the seatpost. No, it is never cost effective. I've ended up with a bike that's similar in weight (24.6 lbs) and componentry to the Caffeine F1 with a somewhat inferior frame for the same total price as a Caffeine F1. But it was fun to wield my own wrench.

    Also put an SL on a donor 2002 Scalpel frame - photos of that if anyone is interested.

    [URL="http://www.pbase.com/sabini/image/93733980"]
    [URL="http://www.pbase.com/sabini/image/93734039"]
    Last edited by almontebarnes; 03-03-2008 at 08:09 PM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by almontebarnes

    Also put an SL on a donor 2002 Scalpel frame - photos of that if anyone is interested.



    Just thought I'd pop them up here for you

  7. #7
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    regarding the clamps, it's a rather tight tolerance between the upper and lower. i can't recall the number...137mm, maybe? i don't know. regardless, it shouldn't very difficult to get on. if it is, and you need a couple millimeters or so, what you can do is find the edge of a table, and situate your clamps such that one is above and one is below. then just whack the clamps...either pulling up or down - "slamming the clamps onto the tabletop, table bottom" if you will. don't go crazy or anything. the clamps are soft enough to spread a little. sounds odd, but it's a Cannondale prescription. assuming cups and bearings are fully seated.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Welcome aboard

    2. Many Cannondale dealers won't have this stuff in stock, ones that do in house service most likely will. I do.

    FYI, the DLR2 SL is different in a number of ways, so be careful trying to figure stuff out on yours if it doesn't make perfect sense as you look at it and read the info you have.

    Have fun!
    So, I've really been enjoying both my Carbon DLR2 and the Carbon SL. I removed, inspected and reassembled the DLR2 using the procedure documented here: http://maximatgmh.free.fr/Instructio...fty%20DLR2.pdf Plus I changed many seals while I was in there. Not that I neccessarily needed to do this, but as a used fork, I just wanted it to be perfect given the unknown history.

    Really quite easy (once I got all the tools). Now I want to dig into the SL and do the same procedure. I've not ridden the SL much, but now that I've started, I'm noticing some creaky sounds. (To be fair, I've not even lifted the boot do a basic lube - of course I'll do that.) I'd like to pull out the damper & inspect & reassemble, but I don't have an illustrated guide like the one above. Does anyone know of one? Or at least have any advice? Mendon's warning above reinforces my desire to get some knowledge on the SL before I dive in.

    While I'm in the SL, I'd also like to refresh some seals. Problem: I don't know where to get a seal kit. Universal Cycles has the DLR2 kit, but not the SL. Any help would be appreciated.

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