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  1. #1
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    lefty issues with new Taurine: ( -

    I just got my Taurine team rep and am inspecting it as I'm building it up. This is my first c'dale and I have some questions for those well versed in the ways.

    1) The lockout lever on the lefty carbon is really stiff. I would hit a tree trying to adjust it on the trails or end up with RSI. What's the go?

    2) The bolt that mounts the front brake mount to the lefty goes so far in it hits the rotor. Looks like some washers are needed. I checked my juicy sevens on some Reba races and the ISIS mount there is thicker than what's on the lefty. Is it safe to replace these bolts with Ti bolts?

    The SLRs are experiencing the same rotating issues as mentioned by others at the front wheel because of the rubber ring. It looks like it would keep the dirt away from the bearings so I might try and break it in.

    I'm keen to head out, but it looks like it'll be next weekend before all the work that needs to be done is finished.

  2. #2
    mad aussie
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    1. Lockout lever is always stiff at first, but it gets quite a bit looser over time.

    2. You should have received some Lefty specific caliper bolts with the bike. They are shorter to avoid the problem you have mentioned. You dont use the stock bolts that come with the brake. If you did run some Ti bolts it would be very difficult to cut them shorter, and to be honest how much difference will a couple of grams make!?

  3. #3
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    Kevin, there were indeed two bolts, which I thought were spares for the lefty clamps, that did the job.

    The cabling that came with the bike is a mess, the brakes are on different sides to my other bikes, the left runs down to the front bake, which I think is the US setup?

    Do you all run you cables between the fork and head tube or around the fork?

    Many thanks

    Vang

  4. #4
    mad aussie
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    I run the cabling and brake lines to the brakes and rear derailleur between the lefty and the frame. The front shifter line I run to the right side of the head tube. This works out pretty clean, the downside being that you have to remove the SI stem/steerer and fork (a pain in the arse) to position the lines.
    I converted to the US brake setup after I moved out here so I could trade bikes with others without killing myself and them!'

    Kevin

    edit: sorry, brain fade, front shifter line to right side of head tube
    Last edited by Flying Wombat; 06-24-2007 at 01:34 PM.

  5. #5
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    Also have Taurine questions

    So has anyone figured out how to get the Lefty SLR to spin better - I have about 10 hours of ride time and it has only improved slightly. Very odd to have such high end Mavics spin so poorly. Any all advice on a fix would be greatly appreciated. The ring that is protecting my bearing appears to be a super thin metal washer - not a soft rubber ring?? There is a bag with spare rubber rings that came with the Taurine but they appear to be for the BB.

    Also, I like to use the big ring on some of the flowing singletrack - but seems the Taurine does not like to crosschain at all. If it is on the big ring and (I have xtr 12-34) the 1st,2nd,3rd largest cogs there is noticeable noise and resistance from the chainline. All of my other bikes have crosschained perfectly (full XTR). Big ring is my preference for a few of the XC sections here.

    Once I solve these two issues I am set. The frame and fork are beyond what I thought possible in stiffness, lighness and compliance. And the bike is 20.00 with everything (bottle cage, pedals, etc..) And I have not had the chance to cut or swap out the heavy Thomson post.

  6. #6
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    Solution

    The Tech at Cannondale told me a quick fix is to lay the bike on the ground and apply some lubricant like Tri-flow to the area around the bolt that tightens the wheel onto the Lefty -- while spinning the wheel. The lube will be pulled into the hub lubricating a rubber seal. Also, feel free to remove the dust seal from the brake side of the hub. The sealed cartridge bearings do not benefit much from the dust ring.

  7. #7
    LA CHÈVRE
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    Chain-line can affect it, make it better or worse but most bikes don't like cross-chaining. Maybe when the chain gets older and wears out, it can bend more and make less noise but cross-chaining makes the whole drivetrain wear out faster and it's just the way it is, it makes more noise.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  8. #8
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    jtc1, what size is your bike and is 20 lbs stock components? Thanks for the advice about the front wheel.

    The bearing protector ring on my wheels is plastic. I thought it was only this that was causing the slow spinning, but look at it there's no rub marks on it. I don't know where the friction is coming from. Maybe something on the bolt side?

  9. #9
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    Taurine - size Large

    Vang - my bike is a size Large. Some of the stock components are gone for lighter stuff and personal preference items. But nothing is stupid light. I prefer Stan's Aluminum rotors as they modulate much better than steel, and I run non UST tires with sealant, USI grips. My pedals are Time - so I could easily lose another 100 grams by going to some super light eggbeaters and once I find a nice reliable light post - I swap out my uncut thomson. My 2.2 front Nokian tire weights 550 grams, hardly a weight weenie item. My goal is 19.8 race ready with bottle cage, etc.. That is keeping the stock SLR's - easy to save another 150 grams by switching to industry nine wheels or stans wheels, etc...

    Regarding the wheels, we can remove the little plastic ring on the brake side of the hub, but most of the friction we are talking about is coming from the rubber oring on the outer side under the cap with the torque values printed on it. I used some Tri-flow last night and it helped, even better is to take a pin spanner and remove the cap and remove the rubber ring.

    I have been running big ring , big in the rear on my other XTR bikes without any problem or noise, I think the sram chain is not very limber side-to-side. Might try a different chain.

    Lastly, with the 2.1 schwable Racing Ralph inflated to 29 psi, I have been hitting my pedals on rocks, rotts, etc... Can cause a crash in a hurry. I was disappointed that the 2.1's are really 1.9's - I with the tire industry would go to a standard sizing. I think if I put a true 2.1 or 2.25 on the rear it will give me just a bit more BB height to keep my pedals off the ground. As is I need to ride very aware of my pedal position.

  10. #10
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    But what's the purpose of the power sapping o-ring in the SLRs? The bearings sure don't need it and the pre-07 SLs didn't have it and had no problems...

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  11. #11
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    Slr

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    But what's the purpose of the power sapping o-ring in the SLRs? The bearings sure don't need it and the pre-07 SLs didn't have it and had no problems...
    Good question...I imagine it is some sort of dust seal..not needed for sealed cartridge bearings.

  12. #12
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    Don't worry to much - go riding first. After 500 km with the SLR's the front wheel spins freely like on any other bike - with all sealings in place.
    --
    happy trails
    redbyte

  13. #13
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    After putting about 500kms on the bike I was still not getting free rotation of the front wheel. I got some cir-clip pliers broke the fine tips off trying to remove the cap because it was on so tight. The pliers worked better broken and I got the cap off, and to my surprise a free spinning front wheel.

    It looks like the bolt will still hold the wheel without the cap. I wonder if a weight weenie out there is riding around with no cap.

    I stand corrected. The squealing noise came back and I've taken the rubber ring off which seems to have gotten rid of it. The ring was rubbing against the cap as the wheel turned.
    Last edited by vang; 08-10-2007 at 06:56 AM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    But what's the purpose of the power sapping o-ring in the SLRs? The bearings sure don't need it and the pre-07 SLs didn't have it and had no problems...
    I've never taken my SL's apart but I do know that the Cannondale Omega hubs have these o-rings also. If things are torqued to spec., there will be no problems with any drag. As for this o-ring and the dust cap on the brake side, I'd leave them on to help keep the water out. The only problem I ever had was one of my hubs would make a slight squeeky noise and I only seemed to notice it while climbing and that drove me nuts. I took off the wheel dropped a couple drops of chain lube down there and it never made the noise again. How are you coming along with selling all you bikes to finance the new Scalpel? I put my truck up for sale yesterday!! Just kidding. But I have sold a Dirtbike, Scalpel frame, some SLR's and a Speed carbon SL.

  15. #15
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    It looks like the o ring will always cause drag because the ring holds the bolt onto the cap and the bolt is stationery while the cap spins around it with the wheel.

  16. #16
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    My lefty too a turn for the worst and leaked air completely. It was sent back to C'dale and the seals were replaced, which meant it only leaked air while riding. Sent it back again and received what seems to be a non 2007 out body with my original cartridge.

    The current replacement for weighs in at 1240 grams. I remember that I read or weighed my original and it was 1220 grams. Can anyone confirm this and is there any other differences besides cosmetic between the 06 and 07 speed carbon sl 110?

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by vang
    My lefty too a turn for the worst and leaked air completely. It was sent back to C'dale and the seals were replaced, which meant it only leaked air while riding. Sent it back again and received what seems to be a non 2007 out body with my original cartridge.

    The current replacement for weighs in at 1240 grams. I remember that I read or weighed my original and it was 1220 grams. Can anyone confirm this and is there any other differences besides cosmetic between the 06 and 07 speed carbon sl 110?
    Cannondale states it weighs 1.24 kg they have changed nothing. I think they changed one of the colors of one of the stickers though. You can find the weight right on their website. Sucks that you've had some problems hear, but hang in there. Once you get these issues ironed out, you'll be hooked on Lefty.

  18. #18
    LA CHÈVRE
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    Are you guys serious? 20 grams? The exact same tire model can have much more than a 20 gram difference from one to another...

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

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