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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jul 2006

    Lefty DLR2 Negative Spring Change and Shim Stack Question

    I just bought a lighter weight negative spring for my wife's 2006 alloy Speed DLR2 (from blue to green). Installing it was no problem except I noticed that in the DLR2 tech documents it shows different Compression and Rebound Stack arrangements for the different weight negative springs. Changing those looks like major surgery for just fractions of inches. My dealer said the Cannondale rep told him that most people don't change the stack shims. Can anybody give me some more opinions on this issue?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Not sure what up mean by "fractions of inches". The shim stacks control the compression and rebound damping of the fork. If you are setting the fork up for someone who needs the green negative spring, then you should change the shims too (to make them more flexible), or the fork will be overdamped. This will be most noticeable on compression (since the rebound is adjustable) - the fork will appear plush in the car park / on small hits, but will be harsh on big hits as it can't move fast enough.

    If you have changed the negative spring then it's not much more work to change the shims by opening the damper up and removing the smallest shim on each stack (makes the whole stack a bit more flexible). Make sure you use threadlock when putting it all back together and you bleed the damper properly.
    A slightly easier fix is to just change the oil for something lighter (say 2.5wt), but this may make the fork a bit prone to 'bobing'.

  3. #3
    mad aussie
    Reputation: Flying Wombat's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2004
    I can attest the difference taking out a shim can make to the damping for a lighter rider. It made by Lefty work worlds better for me on the small stuff. Definately worth taking the time to do.


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