Page 1 of 12 1 2 3 4 5 11 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 25 of 293
  1. #1
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134

    The Lefty bearing reset thread

    Well , thats my intention at least.
    Here is my step by step tutorial on the 140mm FFD Lefty.
    Place bike in a work stand.

    1) Tighten red rebound know all the way clockwise. (Keep track of 'clicks' so you can return it to this setting in step 9)


    2) loosen upper clamp bolt ON fork. (5 mm ALLEN)


    3 a,b,c) Remove aluminum cap from fork using a Shimano Bottom Bracket tool. The cap sticks to my rebound knob, but pops off easily.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CdaleTony; 10-26-2007 at 12:47 PM.

  2. #2
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    4) Remove the two split rings (This will allow you to telescope the fork down further to reset bearings)


    5) Extend fork downwards with a moderate amount of force...Feel the way it stops, if the bearings are out, the feeling will go from a hollow to a firm stop...Pic shows fork fully extended.

    Re-assembly is the reverse order of what you just did......

    6) Place split rings back in the groove, NOTE the rings are stamped with the word "TOP" so they go in right)


    7) Replace Aluminum cap, snugging it with Bottom bracket tool.


    8) Tighten fork clamp bolt to 60 inch-lbs.


    9) return rebound to your favorite position...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    SO
    Mendon, Dan, what advice do I need on the first two posts? Mistakes,ommissions, or suggestions?

    CDT

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Posts
    922
    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    SO
    Mendon, Dan, what advice do I need on the first two posts? Mistakes,ommissions, or suggestions?

    CDT
    Okay, I was going ho-hum, until I see that last picture... In the past I've only driven my fork down to the point where the stops are basically even with the top of the fork..., apparently I have not been applying enough force to sink the rebound knob that deep into the fork. - Thanks for the info...

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Posts
    132
    Excellent Post - the only comment I would add is that on the Carbon Lefty you do not (can't) need to undo the allen bolt as it the bonded fork does not have this bolt.

    Your post should help people realise how easy this process is - well done.

    Roger

  6. #6
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lonbalz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    196
    This might be a stupid question, but here goes. When you reset your bearings, is the rebound nob suppose to go that far down in the external housing? When doing mine, they didn't go near that far. The red nob was still above the threads on the housing.

  7. #7
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    This is the kind of feedback we need for this thread....IE which forks are you guys running?
    Maybe we can get pics up like this for various models, where the rebound knob may not go down as far..
    These pics are of the 140mm FFD fork......And may not apply exactly as shown for your forks..
    CDT

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lonbalz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    196
    Sorry, forgot to tell which fork I have.....140mm FFD

  9. #9
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    Ok, I'm hoping for some experts to chime in here..I think the # Cdale lists for measuring is done when the fork down like in that last pic...
    T

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Posts
    668
    and for the DLR2 Lefty? Similar?

  11. #11
    LA CHÈVRE
    Reputation: Dan Gerous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    9,410
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  12. #12
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.
    Good then...Ultimately it would be great for a nice pictorial for each...But I am one man , with one fork....
    Any changes Dan?
    CDT

  13. #13
    LA CHÈVRE
    Reputation: Dan Gerous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    9,410
    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    Good then...Ultimately it would be great for a nice pictorial for each...But I am one man , with one fork....
    Any changes Dan?
    CDT
    I have a Lefty Max so I cannot take picture of the lock-out lever removal but this should help:

    Quote Originally Posted by Cannondale
    To remove, loosen (3) and remove (4) and (5). Remove (6) and lift of (2) and (7). You can then take the top cap off like mtbr.com Cannondale forum moderator CdaleTony's instructions or by following the instruction in the Lefty Max manual.
    Attached Images Attached Images

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  14. #14
    mtbr member
    Reputation: MTB1986's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Posts
    862
    I also don't remember the rebound knob on mine going down nearly as far as the picture shows. Also whats the point in loosening the upper clamp bolt?. It shouldn't affect the resetting of the bearings with it tightened.
    Thanks, excellent write up by the way.
    Remember, "We're not here for a long time, we're here for a good time".-D.Ritchie

  15. #15
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    Quote Originally Posted by MTB1986
    I also don't remember the rebound knob on mine going down nearly as far as the picture shows. Also whats the point in loosening the upper clamp bolt?. It shouldn't affect the resetting of the bearings with it tightened.
    Thanks, excellent write up by the way.
    I think Mendon recommends it, like unstressing the tube Before you take the cap off?
    CDT

  16. #16
    LA CHÈVRE
    Reputation: Dan Gerous's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Posts
    9,410
    Yeah, loosening the top clamp makes the tube round again (the torque on that bolt actually makes the top of the tube squeezed a little), making the top cap easier to take off and on again. It also makes life easier on the thread of the top cap so it will last forever. If you don't find that bolt though, don't worry, Carbon and some alloy Leftys are bonded to the clamp and the tube stays round.
    Last edited by Dan Gerous; 07-28-2006 at 06:14 AM.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  17. #17
    mtbr member
    Reputation: lonbalz's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Posts
    196
    On the alloy tubes, when the top clamp is tightened, it causes the tube to ovalize a little. By loosening that clamp, the tube goes back to it's natural round shape and it's alot easier to take the top cap off. Just be sure to put the top cap back on before you tighten that top clamp.(you probably already figured that out though)

  18. #18
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    2

    lefty DLR2 bearing reset

    Hello.
    yesterday I opened my DLR2 and it don´t have the same construction of lefty Max. Are you sure that the process for reseting is the same??

    "4) Remove the two split rings (This will allow you to telescope the fork down further to reset bearings)"
    I can´t do this because there are no splits.

    Somebody has the travel of DLR2 reduced. And it´s posible to resolve this yourself?

    Thanks.

  19. #19
    discombobulated SuperModerator
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Posts
    3,134
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.
    This is what I am hoping for...Getting the correct PDF's downloaded and people with different forks doing a pictorial like above...Getting it all hashed out so everyone can do it....

    Are you up for that, OIER?
    CDT

  20. #20
    GT Dirt Coalition
    Reputation: JimThomas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    79
    I did this procedure tonight (whilst I had the thing disassembled for headset bearing maintenance - remove grit, add grease = no creak ).

    I turned the rebound the wrong way. Could barely get the RB knob a 1/4-1/2 inch below the tube. Do ya think I hurt anything turning the RB CCW??
    Last edited by JimThomas; 08-03-2006 at 10:43 PM.

  21. #21
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    12,923
    Good start Tony! It's worth mentioning that all headshock/Lefty systems will experience this, in varying degrees, and at varying amounts of time. There is no consistant interval that can be made for doing it. When you hear topping out, "clunking" when the fork rebounds to the top of it's travel, it's time to reset. Not all forks are consumer reset-able. Headshocks, regardless of vintage, no consumer reset. Lefty DLR and ELO series, no consumer reset. First generation Max forks, yes, but a different procedure than listed above (see instructions below), Lefty DLR2, yes, as above, and current Max, see original posting.

    First Gen Maxes, same basic opening procedure, push the fork downward, exposing the spring. Slide the black aluminum sleeve down, exposing the black plastic sleeve underneath it, note that this will be under some spring tension, it does not just "fall out" when removed. Slide this off the rebound shaft, thus allowing removal of the black aluminum sleeve via the same route. Remove the rubber O ring from the groove in the top cap's edge. This will allow the cap to drop in easily for what comes next. Now the reset procedure is the same, slam the fork downward to reset. Neat thing about these guys is, the black aluminum sleeve also serves as the feeler gauge for proper rest length. Just drop it down on top of the top cap when the fork is fully extended, when it sits flush with the top of the outer steerer, your good to go. Reassemble, and ride!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

  22. #22
    Compulsive Upgrader
    Reputation: prodigalcyclist's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Posts
    198
    I did a bearing reset on my Lefty on Sunday and my rebound knob ended up inside the body as well. Just like Tony's.

    For the record as well. My Lefty did not "feel" like it need a reset. Although as indicated in the manual there was some significant spring preload when I removed the top cap as it popped off slightly when Ioosened it. Which according to the manual is a good indicator that there was some migration.

    The day turned into a Lefty overhaul day, as I also cleaned, re-greased the bearing races, as well as cleaned and re-oiled my air filter. Which I found the only way to do so was to remove the whole assembly from the clamps to get the rubber boot for the filter off.

    NOTE: I put it all back together when I realized I forgot to slide the frame bumper back on. Ooops.

  23. #23
    GT Dirt Coalition
    Reputation: JimThomas's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Posts
    79
    Quote Originally Posted by prodigalcyclist
    NOTE: I put it all back together when I realized I forgot to slide the frame bumper back on. Ooops.
    Me too

  24. #24
    mtbr member
    Reputation: KarlosPirahna's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    387

    Cool, Thanks guys!!

    I'm soooo pleased, I'm the worlds most hopeless mechanic. I just followed this procedure as I'm sick of always taking my bike to the LBS (who are pretty sh*t). My Lefty 140 TPC had felt clunky for some time and was topping out. I'd tried the bearing reset before but it hadn't worked, basically where I was going wrong was simply that I wasn't applying enough force. It really did need a few very hard shoves to get the thing reset. I pushed it down so hard that it felt like it was stuck at full extension but I pulled the fork back up again and gave it a few gentle extensions and it felt right.

    Once reassembled the fork didn't feel clunky anymore, WOOHOO!!!

    I guess I must have finally done it right, the moral of my story is, if in doubt push the bloody thing down harder!!

    Again thanks for the excellent thread

    Oh and I have a long ride planned for tommorow so I'll let you know how it performs.

  25. #25
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
    Reputation: MendonCycleSmith's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    12,923
    Quote Originally Posted by KarlosPirahna
    I'm soooo pleased, I'm the worlds most hopeless mechanic. I just followed this procedure as I'm sick of always taking my bike to the LBS (who are pretty sh*t). My Lefty 140 TPC had felt clunky for some time and was topping out. I'd tried the bearing reset before but it hadn't worked, basically where I was going wrong was simply that I wasn't applying enough force. It really did need a few very hard shoves to get the thing reset. I pushed it down so hard that it felt like it was stuck at full extension but I pulled the fork back up again and gave it a few gentle extensions and it felt right.

    Once reassembled the fork didn't feel clunky anymore, WOOHOO!!!

    I guess I must have finally done it right, the moral of my story is, if in doubt push the bloody thing down harder!!

    Again thanks for the excellent thread

    Oh and I have a long ride planned for tommorow so I'll let you know how it performs.

    Good show! See folks, even a self described hopeless mechanic can do it. Bearing reset is not a big deal!!! Cheers!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



    www.mendoncyclesmith.com

Page 1 of 12 1 2 3 4 5 11 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •