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  1. #1
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    The Lefty bearing reset thread

    Well , thats my intention at least.
    Here is my step by step tutorial on the 140mm FFD Lefty.
    Place bike in a work stand.

    1) Tighten red rebound know all the way clockwise. (Keep track of 'clicks' so you can return it to this setting in step 9)


    2) loosen upper clamp bolt ON fork. (5 mm ALLEN)


    3 a,b,c) Remove aluminum cap from fork using a Shimano Bottom Bracket tool. The cap sticks to my rebound knob, but pops off easily.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CdaleTony; 10-26-2007 at 11:47 AM.

  2. #2
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    4) Remove the two split rings (This will allow you to telescope the fork down further to reset bearings)


    5) Extend fork downwards with a moderate amount of force...Feel the way it stops, if the bearings are out, the feeling will go from a hollow to a firm stop...Pic shows fork fully extended.

    Re-assembly is the reverse order of what you just did......

    6) Place split rings back in the groove, NOTE the rings are stamped with the word "TOP" so they go in right)


    7) Replace Aluminum cap, snugging it with Bottom bracket tool.


    8) Tighten fork clamp bolt to 60 inch-lbs.


    9) return rebound to your favorite position...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    SO
    Mendon, Dan, what advice do I need on the first two posts? Mistakes,ommissions, or suggestions?

    CDT

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    SO
    Mendon, Dan, what advice do I need on the first two posts? Mistakes,ommissions, or suggestions?

    CDT
    Okay, I was going ho-hum, until I see that last picture... In the past I've only driven my fork down to the point where the stops are basically even with the top of the fork..., apparently I have not been applying enough force to sink the rebound knob that deep into the fork. - Thanks for the info...

  5. #5
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    Excellent Post - the only comment I would add is that on the Carbon Lefty you do not (can't) need to undo the allen bolt as it the bonded fork does not have this bolt.

    Your post should help people realise how easy this process is - well done.

    Roger

  6. #6
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    This might be a stupid question, but here goes. When you reset your bearings, is the rebound nob suppose to go that far down in the external housing? When doing mine, they didn't go near that far. The red nob was still above the threads on the housing.

  7. #7
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    This is the kind of feedback we need for this thread....IE which forks are you guys running?
    Maybe we can get pics up like this for various models, where the rebound knob may not go down as far..
    These pics are of the 140mm FFD fork......And may not apply exactly as shown for your forks..
    CDT

  8. #8
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    Sorry, forgot to tell which fork I have.....140mm FFD

  9. #9
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    Ok, I'm hoping for some experts to chime in here..I think the # Cdale lists for measuring is done when the fork down like in that last pic...
    T

  10. #10
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    and for the DLR2 Lefty? Similar?

  11. #11
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    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.
    Good then...Ultimately it would be great for a nice pictorial for each...But I am one man , with one fork....
    Any changes Dan?
    CDT

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    Good then...Ultimately it would be great for a nice pictorial for each...But I am one man , with one fork....
    Any changes Dan?
    CDT
    I have a Lefty Max so I cannot take picture of the lock-out lever removal but this should help:

    Quote Originally Posted by Cannondale
    To remove, loosen (3) and remove (4) and (5). Remove (6) and lift of (2) and (7). You can then take the top cap off like mtbr.com Cannondale forum moderator CdaleTony's instructions or by following the instruction in the Lefty Max manual.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  14. #14
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    I also don't remember the rebound knob on mine going down nearly as far as the picture shows. Also whats the point in loosening the upper clamp bolt?. It shouldn't affect the resetting of the bearings with it tightened.
    Thanks, excellent write up by the way.
    Remember, "We're not here for a long time, we're here for a good time".-D.Ritchie

  15. #15
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB1986
    I also don't remember the rebound knob on mine going down nearly as far as the picture shows. Also whats the point in loosening the upper clamp bolt?. It shouldn't affect the resetting of the bearings with it tightened.
    Thanks, excellent write up by the way.
    I think Mendon recommends it, like unstressing the tube Before you take the cap off?
    CDT

  16. #16
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    Yeah, loosening the top clamp makes the tube round again (the torque on that bolt actually makes the top of the tube squeezed a little), making the top cap easier to take off and on again. It also makes life easier on the thread of the top cap so it will last forever. If you don't find that bolt though, don't worry, Carbon and some alloy Leftys are bonded to the clamp and the tube stays round.
    Last edited by Dan Gerous; 07-28-2006 at 05:14 AM.

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  17. #17
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    On the alloy tubes, when the top clamp is tightened, it causes the tube to ovalize a little. By loosening that clamp, the tube goes back to it's natural round shape and it's alot easier to take the top cap off. Just be sure to put the top cap back on before you tighten that top clamp.(you probably already figured that out though)

  18. #18
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    lefty DLR2 bearing reset

    Hello.
    yesterday I opened my DLR2 and it don´t have the same construction of lefty Max. Are you sure that the process for reseting is the same??

    "4) Remove the two split rings (This will allow you to telescope the fork down further to reset bearings)"
    I can´t do this because there are no splits.

    Somebody has the travel of DLR2 reduced. And it´s posible to resolve this yourself?

    Thanks.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.
    This is what I am hoping for...Getting the correct PDF's downloaded and people with different forks doing a pictorial like above...Getting it all hashed out so everyone can do it....

    Are you up for that, OIER?
    CDT

  20. #20
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    I did this procedure tonight (whilst I had the thing disassembled for headset bearing maintenance - remove grit, add grease = no creak ).

    I turned the rebound the wrong way. Could barely get the RB knob a 1/4-1/2 inch below the tube. Do ya think I hurt anything turning the RB CCW??
    Last edited by JimThomas; 08-03-2006 at 09:43 PM.

  21. #21
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Good start Tony! It's worth mentioning that all headshock/Lefty systems will experience this, in varying degrees, and at varying amounts of time. There is no consistant interval that can be made for doing it. When you hear topping out, "clunking" when the fork rebounds to the top of it's travel, it's time to reset. Not all forks are consumer reset-able. Headshocks, regardless of vintage, no consumer reset. Lefty DLR and ELO series, no consumer reset. First generation Max forks, yes, but a different procedure than listed above (see instructions below), Lefty DLR2, yes, as above, and current Max, see original posting.

    First Gen Maxes, same basic opening procedure, push the fork downward, exposing the spring. Slide the black aluminum sleeve down, exposing the black plastic sleeve underneath it, note that this will be under some spring tension, it does not just "fall out" when removed. Slide this off the rebound shaft, thus allowing removal of the black aluminum sleeve via the same route. Remove the rubber O ring from the groove in the top cap's edge. This will allow the cap to drop in easily for what comes next. Now the reset procedure is the same, slam the fork downward to reset. Neat thing about these guys is, the black aluminum sleeve also serves as the feeler gauge for proper rest length. Just drop it down on top of the top cap when the fork is fully extended, when it sits flush with the top of the outer steerer, your good to go. Reassemble, and ride!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  22. #22
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    I did a bearing reset on my Lefty on Sunday and my rebound knob ended up inside the body as well. Just like Tony's.

    For the record as well. My Lefty did not "feel" like it need a reset. Although as indicated in the manual there was some significant spring preload when I removed the top cap as it popped off slightly when Ioosened it. Which according to the manual is a good indicator that there was some migration.

    The day turned into a Lefty overhaul day, as I also cleaned, re-greased the bearing races, as well as cleaned and re-oiled my air filter. Which I found the only way to do so was to remove the whole assembly from the clamps to get the rubber boot for the filter off.

    NOTE: I put it all back together when I realized I forgot to slide the frame bumper back on. Ooops.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigalcyclist
    NOTE: I put it all back together when I realized I forgot to slide the frame bumper back on. Ooops.
    Me too

  24. #24
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    Cool, Thanks guys!!

    I'm soooo pleased, I'm the worlds most hopeless mechanic. I just followed this procedure as I'm sick of always taking my bike to the LBS (who are pretty sh*t). My Lefty 140 TPC had felt clunky for some time and was topping out. I'd tried the bearing reset before but it hadn't worked, basically where I was going wrong was simply that I wasn't applying enough force. It really did need a few very hard shoves to get the thing reset. I pushed it down so hard that it felt like it was stuck at full extension but I pulled the fork back up again and gave it a few gentle extensions and it felt right.

    Once reassembled the fork didn't feel clunky anymore, WOOHOO!!!

    I guess I must have finally done it right, the moral of my story is, if in doubt push the bloody thing down harder!!

    Again thanks for the excellent thread

    Oh and I have a long ride planned for tommorow so I'll let you know how it performs.

  25. #25
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by KarlosPirahna
    I'm soooo pleased, I'm the worlds most hopeless mechanic. I just followed this procedure as I'm sick of always taking my bike to the LBS (who are pretty sh*t). My Lefty 140 TPC had felt clunky for some time and was topping out. I'd tried the bearing reset before but it hadn't worked, basically where I was going wrong was simply that I wasn't applying enough force. It really did need a few very hard shoves to get the thing reset. I pushed it down so hard that it felt like it was stuck at full extension but I pulled the fork back up again and gave it a few gentle extensions and it felt right.

    Once reassembled the fork didn't feel clunky anymore, WOOHOO!!!

    I guess I must have finally done it right, the moral of my story is, if in doubt push the bloody thing down harder!!

    Again thanks for the excellent thread

    Oh and I have a long ride planned for tommorow so I'll let you know how it performs.

    Good show! See folks, even a self described hopeless mechanic can do it. Bearing reset is not a big deal!!! Cheers!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  26. #26
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    Well, I did a very hard 60km ride yesterday and the Lefty was better than ever. The ride had a bit of everything including some very rocky sections. God I love that bike

    http://karl-holtby.photobook.org.uk/p33848641.html

    Cheers

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigalcyclist
    ....as well as cleaned and re-oiled my air filter. Which I found the only way to do so was to remove the whole assembly from the clamps to get the rubber boot for the filter off.
    How do we remove the air filter/boot from a carbon MAX?

  28. #28
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    anyone?

  29. #29
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by keoman
    How do we remove the air filter/boot from a carbon MAX?
    Unfortunately, it would have to be done at a point of total disassembly, sorry=
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  30. #30
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    why does the manual says that we have to wash and oil the air-filter every 10-15 hours?

    this thing does not make sense.....

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by keoman
    why does the manual says that we have to wash and oil the air-filter every 10-15 hours?

    this thing does not make sense.....
    Which part doesnt? I may do mine today!
    CDT

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    Which part doesnt? I may do mine today!
    CDT
    And I did!... 140mm Lefty Max.... I took off the front caliper and let it dangle gently, loosened all 3 clamp screws on FORK side of clamp (1 top, 2 bottom). Removed the top cap with BB tool (After clicking rebound all the way clockwise) and I slid the fork out, removing the frame bumper from between clamps, then removing the cable guide clamp and the whole filter thing. The filter slid off with some elbow grease as I didnt cut the cable tie nor loosen the cable guide clamp
    Now I need some filter oil or what can I use to cheat with ?
    CDT

  33. #33
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    that's easy with your lefty

    the problem is with the carbon lefty max because u can't slide the fork out from the clamps

    I don't know if it is possible to remove it from the spindle side

  34. #34
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by keoman
    that's easy with your lefty

    the problem is with the carbon lefty max because u can't slide the fork out from the clamps

    I don't know if it is possible to remove it from the spindle side


    Tony, Tony, Tony, gotta read the whole thread first= That is odd, that they state that, but then make it impossible to remove, without doing a full on service. Well, here's what I would do. Either still on the bike, laying on it's side, or take the fork off. Slide the rubber cover up, put duct tape over the breather hole to prevent contamination during cleaning, get the foam out from inside the boot, and just do the whole thing right there on the leg. It may take a bit more time, but you can certainly get it done that way. Have fun!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  35. #35
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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  36. #36
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    thanks for the reply!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith

    First Gen Maxes, same basic opening procedure, push the fork downward, exposing the spring. Slide the black aluminum sleeve down, exposing the black plastic sleeve underneath it, note that this will be under some spring tension, it does not just "fall out" when removed. Slide this off the rebound shaft, thus allowing removal of the black aluminum sleeve via the same route. Remove the rubber O ring from the groove in the top cap's edge. This will allow the cap to drop in easily for what comes next. Now the reset procedure is the same, slam the fork downward to reset. Neat thing about these guys is, the black aluminum sleeve also serves as the feeler gauge for proper rest length. Just drop it down on top of the top cap when the fork is fully extended, when it sits flush with the top of the outer steerer, your good to go. Reassemble, and ride!

    Many thanks Mendon. I reset my first gen. Max tonight with the help of your post and some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Zero issues, very smooth.
    My Lefty is now getting up there in miles, so this winter I'll make the 3.5 hour trek from Saratoga to Mendon and have you work her over with your magic.
    Thanks again, and if your ever this far East, your beer and trail guide are free.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  38. #38
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic
    I reset my first gen. Max tonight with the help of your post and some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Zero issues, very smooth.
    Did someone say free beer= That's awesome, glad it went smoothly for you. Another satisfied customer, spreading the Lefty reset love! Please do stop by when you're in the area, or send it out if you want. We ride Sundays Tuesdays, and Thursdays around 9PM. If you're up for it, come on out, stay the evening, and come for a ride. I've ridden Skidmore's trails a few years back, they were sweet!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  39. #39
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    Bump.

    a great thread, that needs to be bumped for safety.
    gfy

  40. #40
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    Did anyone re measured the lenght of thier fork after reseting the bearings?
    It should measure as the manual say right?

    I ask this because I just recieved mine from the Cannondale dealer, and I sent it to re set the bearings and measures 648mm instead of 656mm.

    I should get the full travel again right?

  41. #41
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoadve
    I ask this because I just recieved mine from the Cannondale dealer, and I sent it to re set the bearings
    I hope they didn't charge you for the 30 seconds of work it took. You really can do this yourself, actually, the fork has been re-designed to allow you, the end user, to do it, really easily.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  42. #42
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    Thanks Tony!

    I wacked my Lefty off this evening and it worked. No more clunking sound on the rebound. Just took it out for a quick spin around the block and it was smooth a butter.

    Thanks again Tony.
    Don't ping my cheese with your bandwidth.

  43. #43
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    no lever?

    My Lefty--got it last summer--Rush 600--has a little lever on the knob. I don't need to adjust it right this minute (the fork that is), but know I will eventually have to. How will that lever impact this process?

    And, does anyone else feel a bit nervous about that lever pointing at their knee?

  44. #44
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    BB tool used

    Hey guys, long time reader first time posting....

    In step 3 where you show the bottom bracket tool (Shimano TL-FC32) being used, does anyone know if the Spin Doctor tool from performance (#40-2195A) will work? It says it compatible with Shimano Hollow Tech II on the Performance website. Or, is it just best to get the Shimano tool?

    Thanks for the info.

    PS I have a Left Speed Carbon SL 110mm (niot sure that matters to the overall procedure)
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtrembicki
    Hey guys, long time reader first time posting....

    In step 3 where you show the bottom bracket tool (Shimano TL-FC32) being used, does anyone know if the Spin Doctor tool from performance (#40-2195A) will work? It says it compatible with Shimano Hollow Tech II on the Performance website. Or, is it just best to get the Shimano tool?

    Thanks for the info.

    PS I have a Left Speed Carbon SL 110mm (niot sure that matters to the overall procedure)
    Any tool that fits the BB cups of Shimano outboard bearing BBs will work. I have one from Park Tools and yes, the Spin Doctor tool will too. Just don't try with a Spin Doctor CD, that doesn't do any good.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  46. #46
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    Fox Lefty Reset

    How different are the reset procedures for the Fox terralogic versions of the Lefty? I just bought a used 2006 Scalpel and have not had time to tear into the fork at all (but haven't notice any clunking sounds on rebound either).

  47. #47
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    I just did this to my fork and couldn't get it to go that far down. Didn't really look at this pic before doing it.

    Maybe I'll pull it apart and try again.

    Thoughts?


  48. #48
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throttlejockey
    Thoughts?
    I say this cautiously, perhaps a bit more oomph? Also, I assume you removed the split rings.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  49. #49
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    I did remove the split rings.

    It went below the top but not that much. Is there a measurement for that, from the top?

  50. #50
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    Lefty Max is 730mm from bottom to top with the cap off.
    I grab the stem with my right hand and the tire with my left and cram it down in 3 or 4 strokes with gusto. Feels almost like hitting a nail with a hammer. 1,2 to set it, 3! 4! to finish her off.

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