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  1. #1
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    The Lefty bearing reset thread

    Well , thats my intention at least.
    Here is my step by step tutorial on the 140mm FFD Lefty.
    Place bike in a work stand.

    1) Tighten red rebound know all the way clockwise. (Keep track of 'clicks' so you can return it to this setting in step 9)


    2) loosen upper clamp bolt ON fork. (5 mm ALLEN)


    3 a,b,c) Remove aluminum cap from fork using a Shimano Bottom Bracket tool. The cap sticks to my rebound knob, but pops off easily.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by CdaleTony; 10-26-2007 at 11:47 AM.

  2. #2
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    4) Remove the two split rings (This will allow you to telescope the fork down further to reset bearings)


    5) Extend fork downwards with a moderate amount of force...Feel the way it stops, if the bearings are out, the feeling will go from a hollow to a firm stop...Pic shows fork fully extended.

    Re-assembly is the reverse order of what you just did......

    6) Place split rings back in the groove, NOTE the rings are stamped with the word "TOP" so they go in right)


    7) Replace Aluminum cap, snugging it with Bottom bracket tool.


    8) Tighten fork clamp bolt to 60 inch-lbs.


    9) return rebound to your favorite position...
    Attached Images Attached Images

  3. #3
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    SO
    Mendon, Dan, what advice do I need on the first two posts? Mistakes,ommissions, or suggestions?

    CDT

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    SO
    Mendon, Dan, what advice do I need on the first two posts? Mistakes,ommissions, or suggestions?

    CDT
    Okay, I was going ho-hum, until I see that last picture... In the past I've only driven my fork down to the point where the stops are basically even with the top of the fork..., apparently I have not been applying enough force to sink the rebound knob that deep into the fork. - Thanks for the info...

  5. #5
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    Excellent Post - the only comment I would add is that on the Carbon Lefty you do not (can't) need to undo the allen bolt as it the bonded fork does not have this bolt.

    Your post should help people realise how easy this process is - well done.

    Roger

  6. #6
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    This might be a stupid question, but here goes. When you reset your bearings, is the rebound nob suppose to go that far down in the external housing? When doing mine, they didn't go near that far. The red nob was still above the threads on the housing.

  7. #7
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    This is the kind of feedback we need for this thread....IE which forks are you guys running?
    Maybe we can get pics up like this for various models, where the rebound knob may not go down as far..
    These pics are of the 140mm FFD fork......And may not apply exactly as shown for your forks..
    CDT

  8. #8
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    Sorry, forgot to tell which fork I have.....140mm FFD

  9. #9
    discombobulated SuperModerator
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    Ok, I'm hoping for some experts to chime in here..I think the # Cdale lists for measuring is done when the fork down like in that last pic...
    T

  10. #10
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    and for the DLR2 Lefty? Similar?

  11. #11
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    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.
    Good then...Ultimately it would be great for a nice pictorial for each...But I am one man , with one fork....
    Any changes Dan?
    CDT

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    Good then...Ultimately it would be great for a nice pictorial for each...But I am one man , with one fork....
    Any changes Dan?
    CDT
    I have a Lefty Max so I cannot take picture of the lock-out lever removal but this should help:

    Quote Originally Posted by Cannondale
    To remove, loosen (3) and remove (4) and (5). Remove (6) and lift of (2) and (7). You can then take the top cap off like mtbr.com Cannondale forum moderator CdaleTony's instructions or by following the instruction in the Lefty Max manual.
    Attached Images Attached Images

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  14. #14
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    I also don't remember the rebound knob on mine going down nearly as far as the picture shows. Also whats the point in loosening the upper clamp bolt?. It shouldn't affect the resetting of the bearings with it tightened.
    Thanks, excellent write up by the way.
    Remember, "We're not here for a long time, we're here for a good time".-D.Ritchie

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by MTB1986
    I also don't remember the rebound knob on mine going down nearly as far as the picture shows. Also whats the point in loosening the upper clamp bolt?. It shouldn't affect the resetting of the bearings with it tightened.
    Thanks, excellent write up by the way.
    I think Mendon recommends it, like unstressing the tube Before you take the cap off?
    CDT

  16. #16
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    Yeah, loosening the top clamp makes the tube round again (the torque on that bolt actually makes the top of the tube squeezed a little), making the top cap easier to take off and on again. It also makes life easier on the thread of the top cap so it will last forever. If you don't find that bolt though, don't worry, Carbon and some alloy Leftys are bonded to the clamp and the tube stays round.
    Last edited by Dan Gerous; 07-28-2006 at 05:14 AM.

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  17. #17
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    On the alloy tubes, when the top clamp is tightened, it causes the tube to ovalize a little. By loosening that clamp, the tube goes back to it's natural round shape and it's alot easier to take the top cap off. Just be sure to put the top cap back on before you tighten that top clamp.(you probably already figured that out though)

  18. #18
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    lefty DLR2 bearing reset

    Hello.
    yesterday I opened my DLR2 and it don´t have the same construction of lefty Max. Are you sure that the process for reseting is the same??

    "4) Remove the two split rings (This will allow you to telescope the fork down further to reset bearings)"
    I can´t do this because there are no splits.

    Somebody has the travel of DLR2 reduced. And it´s posible to resolve this yourself?

    Thanks.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous
    Well done Tony!

    For the DLR2, it's the same thing except that you have to take off the lock out-lever before you take the top cap off.
    This is what I am hoping for...Getting the correct PDF's downloaded and people with different forks doing a pictorial like above...Getting it all hashed out so everyone can do it....

    Are you up for that, OIER?
    CDT

  20. #20
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    I did this procedure tonight (whilst I had the thing disassembled for headset bearing maintenance - remove grit, add grease = no creak ).

    I turned the rebound the wrong way. Could barely get the RB knob a 1/4-1/2 inch below the tube. Do ya think I hurt anything turning the RB CCW??
    Last edited by JimThomas; 08-03-2006 at 09:43 PM.

  21. #21
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Good start Tony! It's worth mentioning that all headshock/Lefty systems will experience this, in varying degrees, and at varying amounts of time. There is no consistant interval that can be made for doing it. When you hear topping out, "clunking" when the fork rebounds to the top of it's travel, it's time to reset. Not all forks are consumer reset-able. Headshocks, regardless of vintage, no consumer reset. Lefty DLR and ELO series, no consumer reset. First generation Max forks, yes, but a different procedure than listed above (see instructions below), Lefty DLR2, yes, as above, and current Max, see original posting.

    First Gen Maxes, same basic opening procedure, push the fork downward, exposing the spring. Slide the black aluminum sleeve down, exposing the black plastic sleeve underneath it, note that this will be under some spring tension, it does not just "fall out" when removed. Slide this off the rebound shaft, thus allowing removal of the black aluminum sleeve via the same route. Remove the rubber O ring from the groove in the top cap's edge. This will allow the cap to drop in easily for what comes next. Now the reset procedure is the same, slam the fork downward to reset. Neat thing about these guys is, the black aluminum sleeve also serves as the feeler gauge for proper rest length. Just drop it down on top of the top cap when the fork is fully extended, when it sits flush with the top of the outer steerer, your good to go. Reassemble, and ride!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  22. #22
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    I did a bearing reset on my Lefty on Sunday and my rebound knob ended up inside the body as well. Just like Tony's.

    For the record as well. My Lefty did not "feel" like it need a reset. Although as indicated in the manual there was some significant spring preload when I removed the top cap as it popped off slightly when Ioosened it. Which according to the manual is a good indicator that there was some migration.

    The day turned into a Lefty overhaul day, as I also cleaned, re-greased the bearing races, as well as cleaned and re-oiled my air filter. Which I found the only way to do so was to remove the whole assembly from the clamps to get the rubber boot for the filter off.

    NOTE: I put it all back together when I realized I forgot to slide the frame bumper back on. Ooops.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigalcyclist
    NOTE: I put it all back together when I realized I forgot to slide the frame bumper back on. Ooops.
    Me too

  24. #24
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    Cool, Thanks guys!!

    I'm soooo pleased, I'm the worlds most hopeless mechanic. I just followed this procedure as I'm sick of always taking my bike to the LBS (who are pretty sh*t). My Lefty 140 TPC had felt clunky for some time and was topping out. I'd tried the bearing reset before but it hadn't worked, basically where I was going wrong was simply that I wasn't applying enough force. It really did need a few very hard shoves to get the thing reset. I pushed it down so hard that it felt like it was stuck at full extension but I pulled the fork back up again and gave it a few gentle extensions and it felt right.

    Once reassembled the fork didn't feel clunky anymore, WOOHOO!!!

    I guess I must have finally done it right, the moral of my story is, if in doubt push the bloody thing down harder!!

    Again thanks for the excellent thread

    Oh and I have a long ride planned for tommorow so I'll let you know how it performs.

  25. #25
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by KarlosPirahna
    I'm soooo pleased, I'm the worlds most hopeless mechanic. I just followed this procedure as I'm sick of always taking my bike to the LBS (who are pretty sh*t). My Lefty 140 TPC had felt clunky for some time and was topping out. I'd tried the bearing reset before but it hadn't worked, basically where I was going wrong was simply that I wasn't applying enough force. It really did need a few very hard shoves to get the thing reset. I pushed it down so hard that it felt like it was stuck at full extension but I pulled the fork back up again and gave it a few gentle extensions and it felt right.

    Once reassembled the fork didn't feel clunky anymore, WOOHOO!!!

    I guess I must have finally done it right, the moral of my story is, if in doubt push the bloody thing down harder!!

    Again thanks for the excellent thread

    Oh and I have a long ride planned for tommorow so I'll let you know how it performs.

    Good show! See folks, even a self described hopeless mechanic can do it. Bearing reset is not a big deal!!! Cheers!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  26. #26
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    Well, I did a very hard 60km ride yesterday and the Lefty was better than ever. The ride had a bit of everything including some very rocky sections. God I love that bike

    http://karl-holtby.photobook.org.uk/p33848641.html

    Cheers

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by prodigalcyclist
    ....as well as cleaned and re-oiled my air filter. Which I found the only way to do so was to remove the whole assembly from the clamps to get the rubber boot for the filter off.
    How do we remove the air filter/boot from a carbon MAX?

  28. #28
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    anyone?

  29. #29
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by keoman
    How do we remove the air filter/boot from a carbon MAX?
    Unfortunately, it would have to be done at a point of total disassembly, sorry=
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  30. #30
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    why does the manual says that we have to wash and oil the air-filter every 10-15 hours?

    this thing does not make sense.....

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by keoman
    why does the manual says that we have to wash and oil the air-filter every 10-15 hours?

    this thing does not make sense.....
    Which part doesnt? I may do mine today!
    CDT

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by CdaleTony
    Which part doesnt? I may do mine today!
    CDT
    And I did!... 140mm Lefty Max.... I took off the front caliper and let it dangle gently, loosened all 3 clamp screws on FORK side of clamp (1 top, 2 bottom). Removed the top cap with BB tool (After clicking rebound all the way clockwise) and I slid the fork out, removing the frame bumper from between clamps, then removing the cable guide clamp and the whole filter thing. The filter slid off with some elbow grease as I didnt cut the cable tie nor loosen the cable guide clamp
    Now I need some filter oil or what can I use to cheat with ?
    CDT

  33. #33
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    that's easy with your lefty

    the problem is with the carbon lefty max because u can't slide the fork out from the clamps

    I don't know if it is possible to remove it from the spindle side

  34. #34
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by keoman
    that's easy with your lefty

    the problem is with the carbon lefty max because u can't slide the fork out from the clamps

    I don't know if it is possible to remove it from the spindle side


    Tony, Tony, Tony, gotta read the whole thread first= That is odd, that they state that, but then make it impossible to remove, without doing a full on service. Well, here's what I would do. Either still on the bike, laying on it's side, or take the fork off. Slide the rubber cover up, put duct tape over the breather hole to prevent contamination during cleaning, get the foam out from inside the boot, and just do the whole thing right there on the leg. It may take a bit more time, but you can certainly get it done that way. Have fun!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  35. #35
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  36. #36
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    thanks for the reply!

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith

    First Gen Maxes, same basic opening procedure, push the fork downward, exposing the spring. Slide the black aluminum sleeve down, exposing the black plastic sleeve underneath it, note that this will be under some spring tension, it does not just "fall out" when removed. Slide this off the rebound shaft, thus allowing removal of the black aluminum sleeve via the same route. Remove the rubber O ring from the groove in the top cap's edge. This will allow the cap to drop in easily for what comes next. Now the reset procedure is the same, slam the fork downward to reset. Neat thing about these guys is, the black aluminum sleeve also serves as the feeler gauge for proper rest length. Just drop it down on top of the top cap when the fork is fully extended, when it sits flush with the top of the outer steerer, your good to go. Reassemble, and ride!

    Many thanks Mendon. I reset my first gen. Max tonight with the help of your post and some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Zero issues, very smooth.
    My Lefty is now getting up there in miles, so this winter I'll make the 3.5 hour trek from Saratoga to Mendon and have you work her over with your magic.
    Thanks again, and if your ever this far East, your beer and trail guide are free.
    I'd hit it, but I bruise like a peach.

  38. #38
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by bpnic
    I reset my first gen. Max tonight with the help of your post and some Sierra Nevada Pale Ale. Zero issues, very smooth.
    Did someone say free beer= That's awesome, glad it went smoothly for you. Another satisfied customer, spreading the Lefty reset love! Please do stop by when you're in the area, or send it out if you want. We ride Sundays Tuesdays, and Thursdays around 9PM. If you're up for it, come on out, stay the evening, and come for a ride. I've ridden Skidmore's trails a few years back, they were sweet!
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  39. #39
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    Bump.

    a great thread, that needs to be bumped for safety.
    gfy

  40. #40
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    Did anyone re measured the lenght of thier fork after reseting the bearings?
    It should measure as the manual say right?

    I ask this because I just recieved mine from the Cannondale dealer, and I sent it to re set the bearings and measures 648mm instead of 656mm.

    I should get the full travel again right?

  41. #41
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by motoadve
    I ask this because I just recieved mine from the Cannondale dealer, and I sent it to re set the bearings
    I hope they didn't charge you for the 30 seconds of work it took. You really can do this yourself, actually, the fork has been re-designed to allow you, the end user, to do it, really easily.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  42. #42
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    Thanks Tony!

    I wacked my Lefty off this evening and it worked. No more clunking sound on the rebound. Just took it out for a quick spin around the block and it was smooth a butter.

    Thanks again Tony.
    Don't ping my cheese with your bandwidth.

  43. #43
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    no lever?

    My Lefty--got it last summer--Rush 600--has a little lever on the knob. I don't need to adjust it right this minute (the fork that is), but know I will eventually have to. How will that lever impact this process?

    And, does anyone else feel a bit nervous about that lever pointing at their knee?

  44. #44
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    BB tool used

    Hey guys, long time reader first time posting....

    In step 3 where you show the bottom bracket tool (Shimano TL-FC32) being used, does anyone know if the Spin Doctor tool from performance (#40-2195A) will work? It says it compatible with Shimano Hollow Tech II on the Performance website. Or, is it just best to get the Shimano tool?

    Thanks for the info.

    PS I have a Left Speed Carbon SL 110mm (niot sure that matters to the overall procedure)
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  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by rtrembicki
    Hey guys, long time reader first time posting....

    In step 3 where you show the bottom bracket tool (Shimano TL-FC32) being used, does anyone know if the Spin Doctor tool from performance (#40-2195A) will work? It says it compatible with Shimano Hollow Tech II on the Performance website. Or, is it just best to get the Shimano tool?

    Thanks for the info.

    PS I have a Left Speed Carbon SL 110mm (niot sure that matters to the overall procedure)
    Any tool that fits the BB cups of Shimano outboard bearing BBs will work. I have one from Park Tools and yes, the Spin Doctor tool will too. Just don't try with a Spin Doctor CD, that doesn't do any good.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  46. #46
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    Fox Lefty Reset

    How different are the reset procedures for the Fox terralogic versions of the Lefty? I just bought a used 2006 Scalpel and have not had time to tear into the fork at all (but haven't notice any clunking sounds on rebound either).

  47. #47
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    I just did this to my fork and couldn't get it to go that far down. Didn't really look at this pic before doing it.

    Maybe I'll pull it apart and try again.

    Thoughts?


  48. #48
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throttlejockey
    Thoughts?
    I say this cautiously, perhaps a bit more oomph? Also, I assume you removed the split rings.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  49. #49
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    I did remove the split rings.

    It went below the top but not that much. Is there a measurement for that, from the top?

  50. #50
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    Lefty Max is 730mm from bottom to top with the cap off.
    I grab the stem with my right hand and the tire with my left and cram it down in 3 or 4 strokes with gusto. Feels almost like hitting a nail with a hammer. 1,2 to set it, 3! 4! to finish her off.

  51. #51
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    I just reset mine and wow what a difference it makes. It was pretty (read- very) hard to get mine to fully reset, could I have damaged anything? I've had the bike 4 months and this is the first reset I have done- I didnt even know it needed it until I pulled the top cap off and it poped off a little. I rode it around on the street and worked the shock a bunch, measured again and it was still good to go.

    On my last ride a few days ago I did start to notice a new little noise coming from the fork, but it is still super smooth. After the reset the noise is still there but the fork still feels/rides normal. Do I need to grease under the boot maybe? And I ordered the TPC and a seal kit, anything else I should check out when doing this? - oh and im going to replace the fork fluid also
    Last edited by Dizle; 04-04-2007 at 08:50 PM.

  52. #52
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    Thanks for the info guys. Had to slam it about another 10 times to get the 730mm measurement.

    Ended up pulling the fork apart and MCS (Craig) is hooking me up with a new quad seal and fork boot. Super nice guy to talk to and willing to share information freely, even though it's his business.

  53. #53
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    A few more questions

    1. I'm assuming before doing anything, you would need to deflate the air from the fork, right?

    2. When you say "extend the fork downward with a moderate amount of force" what specifically are you doing? Some people have referred to it as "slammin".

    3. Once its down into the tube (pic 5 from Tony's post), how do you pull it back up?

    Thanks in advance!

    --Pete
    Last edited by SlipperyPete; 04-21-2007 at 06:03 AM.

  54. #54
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    I'm still unsure how much force I need to be using...
    I'm guessing I'm not using enough, seeing as the red knob still sits above the tube by about an inch, even after I throw a decent amount of muscle at it
    (ie, instead of having it on a stand, I toss the whole bike upside down and rest some of my weight on the handlebars, via my toes, and pull the fork upward by the hub)

    I'm just wary about breaking something
    (much less something so randomly expensive as a lefty, even an FFD model)

  55. #55
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    Rebound Knob

    Just out of interest, what are the dangers of not turning the rebound knob fully clockwise before removing the outer cap when procedding with a bearing reset?????? Is there damge to the fork?????? Cheers Nick..

  56. #56
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    keep it in the stand, hold the top tube to steady the thing (i need to do this because of a cheap stand) rab the top of the wheel, pull the wheel up and throw it down with good force. Repeat until the red rebound knob is a good inch below the opening. At least that's what i do.

  57. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by nicktheo7
    Just out of interest, what are the dangers of not turning the rebound knob fully clockwise before removing the outer cap when procedding with a bearing reset?????? Is there damge to the fork?????? Cheers Nick..
    Since the knob screws in/out of the housing to set the depth of the damper rod - no damage other than maybe your knob, the damper rod and the 2 itty bitty detent balls go flying if it comes unscrewed while resetting. Also, as I found out, the possibility of putting things back together and the threads aren't engaged and you can't adjust your rebound - til you take it back apart and make sure it is threaded in.
    This isn't a "you're doing it wrong" topic.

    WSS/OSS: Open Source Sealant

  58. #58
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    thanks CheapTrek!
    I dont have a stand, but holding the bars in one hand and 'throwing' the wheel down worked great!
    got rid of what little slop had accumulated, noticeably more solid now.
    (now all I need to do is get my hands on something better than this FFD business)

  59. #59
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    ok, my situation. i did the above mentioned procedure on both my brothers carbon lefty max and my alloy. the carbon version put up a little bit of resistance, but suddenly gave way and the rod stayed down like in the photo. not so with the alloy. no matter how hard i push it in it always ends up a cm or two above the rim of the shaft. do my lefty need a complete rebuild and service, or is the above mentioned behaviour normal? it seems to me the carbon version is doing what it is supposed to and the alloy is most def not.

    another difference is that when i unscrew the topcap, on the alloy the rebound knob turns with the top cap, but on the carbon the rebound knob stays put.

    sorry but this resetting buisness is starting to get on my nerves, and the fact that my local cannondale dealers won't or can't do lefty max servicing frankly pisses me off (ass there are not a lot of alternatives her in norway).

    mendon or any other knowledgeable person, any input is highly appreciated.

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    anybody?

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by klinkekule
    ok, my situation. i did the above mentioned procedure on both my brothers carbon lefty max and my alloy. the carbon version put up a little bit of resistance, but suddenly gave way and the rod stayed down like in the photo. not so with the alloy. no matter how hard i push it in it always ends up a cm or two above the rim of the shaft. do my lefty need a complete rebuild and service, or is the above mentioned behaviour normal? it seems to me the carbon version is doing what it is supposed to and the alloy is most def not.

    another difference is that when i unscrew the topcap, on the alloy the rebound knob turns with the top cap, but on the carbon the rebound knob stays put.

    sorry but this resetting buisness is starting to get on my nerves, and the fact that my local cannondale dealers won't or can't do lefty max servicing frankly pisses me off (ass there are not a lot of alternatives her in norway).

    mendon or any other knowledgeable person, any input is highly appreciated.

    Both are 140's? Sounds like the alloy one is just a bit stiffer bearing preload. The ones that are easier to reset, and more light in preload, and will require reset more frequently. Sounds like you need to just put a bit more into your downward slam. It also just sounds pretty migrated, not in need of a rebuild. As for getting annoying, many things are, till you figure out the amount of effort involved. Mine? I reset once a month or so, and it takes about a minute and a half, from start to finish. Why this is so frustrating to some folks is beyond me. Let me know if you need more info.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  62. #62
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    Sticky???

    Shouldn't this thread be a sticky?

  63. #63
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    oh, i don't find the procedure annoying at all, but i do find the alloy leftys refusal to cooperate quite annoying. As it is i'm using a thomson elite 31.6 seatpost with my weight on top to slam the thing down as far as my puny muscles allow, but still no good. And yes, both are 140 spv evolves - one carbon, one alloy. I don't think the fork has ever been serviced or this procedure performed by the previous owners, so i think the fork could need a decent service anyway (but none of the two previous owners has used the bike in any way remotely close to fulfilling its potential and the bike was completely scratch and bruise free when i got it - so i don't think it's as bad as it could've been. Me on the other hand have done quite a bit of larking about on it ;-) ). It has been making some funny fricition noises compared to the carbon, but nothing alarming. I've been putting the procedure off for some time, but when i tried it the other day i was simply amazed at the simplicity of the procedure and the top end parts of the fork. it really impressed me.

    and yes, what do you mean be bearing preload? That the thingys that migrate are situated in a more toight spot to begin with? I'll try it again, but maybe i'll need to hire some muscles for the job. ;-)

    and yes, sorry, the above mentioned description of the problem was not as good as it could've been.

    and no, this thread What is the best Letfy ever made? should be the sticky as it contains several useful links. ;-) or heck, both may be sticky material, hehe

    and yes, sorry, cheers, hip hip hooray. thanks for the answer. highly appreciated. ;-)

  64. #64
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    I should start a sticky thread. vote for your most entertaining or uselful threads.
    TO be included in the FAQ thread....There are alot of threads in here and alot of those have varying levels of usefullness. It gets cluttered after more than 3 or 4 stickies.
    Hell people wanted all the "post your XXXX" threads stickied. The first page would be all stickies by now....

    CDT

  65. #65
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    I have the 140 TPC and mine needed it bad for awhile. I tried it about 4 times without any luck; but my problem was I did not apply enough downward slamming force. To me, the thought of slamming something down, into a tube, might cause something inside to break. But tonight, I finally got it to reset. Just to let everyone know, if the moderate downward push-force is not working, you might have to slam it downward medium hard about 5 to 10 times to get it to reset. I used a towel on top of the red nob to help with the downward push force while the bike was on a stand.

  66. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgreen
    I used a towel on top of the red nob to help with the downward push force while the bike was on a stand.
    Next time, leave the wheel on, or use the wheel as a handle, if it's still in place. Using the rebound shaft/spring as a "slammer" could eventually bend or deform the shaft....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  67. #67
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    Does anybody know the secret to reinstalling the needle bearings and races on a SL?

  68. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumshcawheely
    Does anybody know the secret to reinstalling the needle bearings and races on a SL?
    The SL is no different than any other in that regard.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  69. #69
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    It has a retaining sort of ring that goes over the lower that hooks into each of the inner races. I haven't tried yet, but I'm thinking if I install everything and then try to put that ring on, it will be too far down in there to work with. But logic tells me that trying to pre assemble the whole thing and slide it in may not work either. Just thaught I'd check in for some advice before I start and my hands are dirty. Also, I noticed the inner races on this lower are shorter than the one I did in the past (the only other time I did this was on a lefty with terralogic). Any help would be appreciated.

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by rumshcawheely
    Any help would be appreciated.
    I think you mean outer races???

    There is a definite procedure for doing it, and there are several threads covering it. I'm sorry to dodge out, but I'm tight on time, and it's a lot of typing to explain it all. Suffice to say, do it the wrong way, and you'll be doing it again If I understand you though, the race retainer ring you're speaking of, holds the outer races in place, and the ring gets put onto the inner leg, before you start reassembly, so it can be put in place after the telescopes are re joined.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  71. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    I think you mean outer races???

    There is a definite procedure for doing it, and there are several threads covering it. I'm sorry to dodge out, but I'm tight on time, and it's a lot of typing to explain it all. Suffice to say, do it the wrong way, and you'll be doing it again If I understand you though, the race retainer ring you're speaking of, holds the outer races in place, and the ring gets put onto the inner leg, before you start reassembly, so it can be put in place after the telescopes are re joined.

    Thanks for your time. There is a ring for the outer races and another ring for the inner races that serves the same purpose for the inne races and that's what makes this one such a pain. I'll let you know how it goes. I'm going to dig into after dinner tonight, unless I end up drinking beers!! Happy New Year!

  72. #72
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    This may be a dumb question, but why arent the bearings fixed to the inside of the fork so that they do not migrate?

  73. #73
    PCC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Throttlejockey
    I just did this to my fork and couldn't get it to go that far down. Didn't really look at this pic before doing it.

    Maybe I'll pull it apart and try again.

    Thoughts?

    I have the same problem. The picture looks like the red knob is sitting 3/4" below the top of the tube but mine stops about 3/8" down. I slammed it as hard as I could about 15 times and it was topping out with a very solid thunk every time. Yes, the rebound knob was turned all the way clockwise to no avail. I did this a month ago and, having doubts from reading these forums, I did it again yesterday with the same results. 140 mm Lefty Max FFD.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by PCC
    I have the same problem. The picture looks like the red knob is sitting 3/4" below the top of the tube but mine stops about 3/8" down. I slammed it as hard as I could about 15 times and it was topping out with a very solid thunk every time. Yes, the rebound knob was turned all the way clockwise to no avail. I did this a month ago and, having doubts from reading these forums, I did it again yesterday with the same results. 140 mm Lefty Max FFD.
    Mine sits about 3/8 down also. It works great there. It's higher since I had the black spring put in and seals replaced. From the cdale lefty manual, the fork length should be about 720 to 730 mm after reset. Mine used to measure about 730. Now, it measures 720.
    Lead by my Lefty............... right down the trail, no brakes.

  75. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duncan1104
    This may be a dumb question, but why arent the bearings fixed to the inside of the fork so that they do not migrate?
    Can't be done. From the largest roller bearing industrial machines (and there are many), to the shortest Headshock, it is an inherent part of the design. It's not a horrible thing, and with modern forks, it's reset in less than 2 minutes, so who cares?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Can't be done. From the largest roller bearing industrial machines (and there are many), to the shortest Headshock, it is an inherent part of the design. It's not a horrible thing, and with modern forks, it's reset in less than 2 minutes, so who cares?
    Hm interesting thanks for the answer.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by Duncan1104
    Hm interesting thanks for the answer.
    You betcha! The other part of that is, those big mach8ines? They have them dialed in (no surprise) and have routine maintenance that addresses it at regular intervals, before it gets out of hand and causes problems. Hmm, not a bad idea?
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  78. #78
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    Okay, I've read it all and get the service bit I don't know how to measure the total fork length, from axle to where exactly, nor do I know what that length should be on my DLR2. Is this length the indicator that reset is needed?

    Okay, so couldn't download the supplement but my LBS emailed me a copy so here is the answer to my question:
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Freediver; 02-21-2008 at 06:08 AM.

  79. #79
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    Do you have to let the air out of the fork before doing this process or does it make no difference?

    Cheers,
    Sean

  80. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiiija
    Do you have to let the air out of the fork before doing this process or does it make no difference?

    Cheers,
    Sean
    Which fork pertains to you?
    CDT

  81. #81
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    I have the Lefty Speed DLR2, 110, just picked up a second hand rush 1000 06.

  82. #82
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiiija
    DLR2,
    No air pressure release required.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  83. #83
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    Thanks alot

  84. #84
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    It went well and was easy to do but I seem to have lost a little overall length, If I hold the wheel and pull up on the stem the fork extends a little more but letting go means it goes down a tad again............whats the reason for this? (if it makes sense in my explanation).Its kind of like having more negative air than positive in a Rockshox fork.

  85. #85
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    [QUOTE=wiiijaIf I hold the wheel and pull up on the stem the fork extends a little more but letting go means it goes down a tad again............whats the reason for this?[/QUOTE]

    They use a fairly aggressive negative spring.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  86. #86
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    thanks

    Thanks everyone for the info. I finally got the nerve to try this on my DLR2 that is on my Rush. I have been feeling it topping out for months, but was nervous about pulling the fork apart. Well, it was really easy, and the fork feels like new again. Now I just have to learn how to change the fluid

  87. #87
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    Hi there,

    I'm reseting my Lefty Speed DLR2 110mm at the moment (on my 06 Rush 600). I brought it back to 695mm fully extended (as stated in this post and in the maintenance document).
    Once everything is reassembled, what should be the final lenght? Does 645mm seems OK? If i take the same measure on my new 08 Rush 4 i get 655!!!! Is it normal or there is something wrong?
    Last edited by surf418; 06-26-2008 at 07:11 PM.

  88. #88
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    According to the manual, the fully extended length should be 695mm+/- 5mm. 645mm seems a little too short.

  89. #89
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    Correct, 695mm fully extended, without the split ring, cap and knob and air pressure but the 645mm is taken after theses are put back on.

    The new 08 Rush measure 655mm and the 06 after reseting 645mm.

  90. #90
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    Anyone?

  91. #91
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    Jake

    Noob question:

    How does it work on a Lefty Jake?

    Just the same?

    Thanks!
    reno

  92. #92
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    2mins? i care

    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Can't be done. From the largest roller bearing industrial machines (and there are many), to the shortest Headshock, it is an inherent part of the design. It's not a horrible thing, and with modern forks, it's reset in less than 2 minutes, so who cares?
    OK, i'm having to reset my bearings after about an hour, so I care.
    the fork goes from dreamlike for the first hour, to all right for 20min, to harsh w/ top out by 1.5 hrs. to have to reset them mid ride isn't acceptable. anybody have any ideas. it's the new pbr 130. it's been ridden very hard in the last 2 months training for dville, but even early, i had to reset it once/week.

    cheers,
    holiday

  93. #93
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    Quote Originally Posted by RenoRulez
    Noob question:

    How does it work on a Lefty Jake?

    Just the same?

    Thanks!
    reno
    Same as a Max 130, which is to say, slightly different that a 140, but still user do-able. There should be something somewhere about it (search Max 130...), let me know if you can't find anything.
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  94. #94
    All Lefty's, all the time Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by holiday
    OK, i'm having to reset my bearings after about an hour, so I care.
    the fork goes from dreamlike for the first hour, to all right for 20min, to harsh w/ top out by 1.5 hrs. to have to reset them mid ride isn't acceptable. anybody have any ideas. it's the new pbr 130. it's been ridden very hard in the last 2 months training for dville, but even early, i had to reset it once/week.

    cheers,
    holiday

    Stiffer spring, or the fork needs to be retoleranced. They all go out within tolerance, but certain rider situations call for a higher, or lower preload. Smile, you're "special"
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  95. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    Stiffer spring, or the fork needs to be retoleranced. They all go out within tolerance, but certain rider situations call for a higher, or lower preload. Smile, you're "special"
    is "retolerancing" something that a good shop can do, or since the pbr is so new, I should track down my rep, murray, and see if I can get him to do it?
    stiffer spings? i'm 6ft, 165 on a L Rize, i like the fork to be active, would reduce the plushness off the top?

    cheers,
    holiday

  96. #96
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    Quote Originally Posted by holiday
    is "retolerancing" something that a good shop can do, or since the pbr is so new, I should track down my rep, murray, and see if I can get him to do it?
    stiffer spings? i'm 6ft, 165 on a L Rize, i like the fork to be active, would reduce the plushness off the top?

    cheers,
    holiday

    If they do normal rebuilds in house, they can do it. As for your rep, no idea if they can or not. It's not a job requirement, though it should be......
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

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  97. #97
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    Is there a post for resetting bearings for a Headshox with a DD60 system??
    '96 Uber Light
    '00 R3000 TT
    '08 Six13

  98. #98
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    Quote Originally Posted by baalan
    Is there a post for resetting bearings for a Headshox with a DD60 system??
    No. You need to remove the cartridge, and use the bearing reset gauge. Without it, don't even try, you'll cry.....
    This is a Pugs not some carbon wannabee pretzel wagon!!

    - FrostyStruthers



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  99. #99
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    The guy at my shop asked me if my bearings were ever reset before I even knew they had to be reset, so it's been done, but I kind of want to pull it apart just to see what it's like in there. One of you guys with the Rush 1000, Speed DLR2 110mm, can you give an accurate description of what you did? Step by step, removing the lock-out, etc. That'd be excellent. Thanks!!

  100. #100
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    I currently have a 2000 lefty DLR, with the steel lower and I and wondering if the bearing are user reset able or should I just send it in to Mendon and have it rebuilt.

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